Bleeding Heart Velvet-Laneway Bunny – Crochet

This charming amigurumi bunny doll blends a soft vintage palette with polished handmade details, making it ideal for readers searching for a collectible rabbit plush, heirloom nursery decor, or a thoughtful handmade gift. The beret, scalloped skirt, and tiny accessories give the finished piece a boutique look.

The design also suits makers looking for a crochet bunny doll pattern PDF style project, an elegant spring rabbit figure, or a display-ready stuffed animal with coordinated clothing. Every visible detail in the image is included here, from the flower vines to the tiny companion bunny and miniature book.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This bunny is worked mainly in continuous rounds unless noted otherwise. The body is slender and softly shaped, with a large round head, long relaxed ears, narrow arms, and straight dangling legs. The clothing is separate where practical, but some fitted elements are designed to sit very closely to the doll.

The finished look depends on proportion as much as stitch count. Keep the head full and smooth, the body light and elongated, and the skirt structured enough to hold its bell shape. The outfit should look layered, but not bulky. Choose yarn with excellent stitch definition and only gentle fuzz.

Materials

• Main bunny color: light cream or warm ivory cotton yarn, DK or light worsted.
• Dusty rose: for beret, vest, shoes, purse, and companion bunny beret.
• Mauve-lilac: for the main skirt and companion bunny skirt.
• Soft blush pink: for the lighter bleeding-heart blossoms.
• Deep rose: for the darker bleeding-heart blossoms and small heart accents.
• Sage green: for leaves and flower stems.
• Warm brown: for the tiny book cover.
• White: for blossom tips and tiny accent drops.
• 2.25 mm to 3 mm hook: use the size that gives very tight stitches for stuffing security.
• Fiberfill stuffing for head, body, arms, legs, ears, and companion bunny.
• Safety eyes or embroidered eyes: small black eyes for both bunnies.
• Tapestry needle for sewing and shaping.
• Stitch markers for round tracking.
• Thin floral wire or bendable craft wire if you want the long flower vines to hold a curved pose.
• Lightweight cardboard or plastic insert for the tiny book if you want crisp edges.

Finished Size

Using DK cotton and a tight gauge, the main bunny will be approximately 13 to 16 inches tall from the top of the head to the bottom of the shoes when seated with legs hanging. The companion bunny will be about 4 to 5 inches tall.

The beret should look oversized and soft rather than fitted tightly. The skirt should spread wider than the body and fall in a rounded bell. The ears should reach down beside the torso, disappearing partly under the beret and vest edges.

Gauge and Tension

Exact gauge is less important than firmness. Your stitches must be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. The head should look especially smooth, with almost invisible stuffing beneath the surface. If your fabric feels loose, change to a smaller hook immediately.

The skirt texture should be slightly more sculptural than the body fabric. The petals at the hem must hold shape instead of collapsing flat. The vest and beret should also look substantial, with defined rows and clean edges that match the image.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = increase, 2 stitches in one stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rnd = round

Design Notes

• The face is minimal, with small centered features and generous empty space around the eyes.
• The ears are long, flat, and lightly stuffed only at the upper section.
• The body is narrow so the clothing looks elegant rather than bulky.
• The skirt is a separate statement piece with layered texture and deep petal edging.
• The vest is short-sleeved and open at the front, with rounded collar points.
• The chest motif, hand-held stem, hanging vine, purse, book, and tiny companion bunny complete the exact visual story.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Main Bunny

Legs Make 2

The legs are slim and straight, with only a very slight widening at the upper thigh. Keep stuffing light so the legs can dangle naturally when the bunny is seated on a shelf or bench. The lower legs should stay smooth and cylindrical.

1. Rnd 1: In cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: In BLO, sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 5: Sc around. (18)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, 3 dec, 8 sc. (15)
7. Rnd 7: 3 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc. (13)
8. Rnd 8: Sc around. (13)
9. Rnd 9: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc. (12)
10. Rnd 10 to 28: Sc around. (12)
11. Stuff firmly at the foot and lightly through the leg. Flatten the top and close with 6 sc through both sides, or leave open for sewing if preferred.

The foot is mostly hidden by the shoes, so shape it gently rather than making a dramatic sole. Make both legs identical. The legs should appear long in relation to the body, but not lanky. Set them aside and begin the torso.

Body and Head

The doll has a one-piece body and head. Join the legs with a small gap so they hang close together. The torso should remain narrow and slightly tapered, while the head becomes broad and softly rounded. Increase gradually to avoid visible corners or flattening.

1. Join the two legs with 3 ch. Sc around first leg, sc across the chain, sc around second leg, sc across the opposite side of the chain. Adjust to a total of 30 sts.
2. Rnd 1 of body: Sc around. (30)
3. Rnd 2: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
4. Rnd 3 to 6: Sc around. (36)
5. Rnd 7: 10 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 20 sc. (34)
6. Rnd 8 to 10: Sc around. (34)
7. Rnd 11: 7 sc, dec around. (30)
8. Rnd 12 to 14: Sc around. (30)
9. Rnd 15: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
10. Rnd 16: Sc around. (24)

At this point, the waist should look slim. Stuff the body firmly at the hips and lower torso, but do not overstuff the waist. A softer waist allows the skirt and vest to sit more naturally and prevents the torso from pushing the clothing outward.

1. Rnd 17: In BLO, 24 sc. (24)
2. Rnd 18: Sc around. (24)
3. Rnd 19: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
4. Rnd 20: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
5. Rnd 21: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
6. Rnd 22: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
7. Rnd 23: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
8. Rnd 24: 8 sc, inc around. (60)
9. Rnd 25 to 34: Sc around. (60)

Insert the eyes between Rnds 28 and 29 with about 10 visible stitches between them, depending on your yarn thickness. The eyes should sit low enough to leave room for the beret, but high enough to keep the face youthful and open.

1. Rnd 35: 8 sc, dec around. (54)
2. Rnd 36: 7 sc, dec around. (48)
3. Rnd 37: 6 sc, dec around. (42)
4. Rnd 38: 5 sc, dec around. (36)
5. Rnd 39: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
6. Begin stuffing the head very firmly and evenly.
7. Rnd 40: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
8. Rnd 41: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
9. Rnd 42: Sc, dec around. (12)
10. Rnd 43: Dec around. (6)
11. Fasten off and close.

Before closing fully, shape the cheeks lightly with your fingers and adjust the stuffing so the face remains round instead of oval. The head in the image looks large and balanced, with no sharp chin. A smooth sphere with soft cheek fullness is ideal.

Arms Make 2

The arms are slim, simple, and only lightly shaped. They fall straight down and rest near the skirt. Keep the top soft enough for easy sewing. The wrists should remain narrow so the hand-held branch and purse sit naturally against the figure.

1. Rnd 1: In cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3 to 5: Sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 6: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc. (10)
5. Rnd 7 to 23: Sc around. (10)
6. Stuff only the lower half. Flatten the opening and close with 5 sc through both sides, or leave open for sewing.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Ears Make 2

The ears are long and flat, with rounded ends and gentle thickness at the top. They do not stand up. One ear falls under the beret and the other is partly visible near the flower vine. Work them smooth and avoid heavy stuffing.

1. Rnd 1: In cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4 to 8: Sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 9: 7 sc, dec, 9 sc. (17)
6. Rnd 10 to 15: Sc around. (17)
7. Rnd 16: 6 sc, dec, 9 sc. (16)
8. Rnd 17 to 26: Sc around. (16)
9. Rnd 27: 6 sc, dec, 8 sc. (15)
10. Rnd 28 to 36: Sc around. (15)
11. Flatten and sc through both layers across the top to close. Do not stuff, or add only a trace of stuffing near the upper third.

Facial Features

Embroider a tiny nose in muted brown or taupe, centered one to two rounds below the eyes. Form a small inverted triangle or tiny Y shape. Add a short straight mouth line descending from the nose point. The expression should be calm, sweet, and understated.

Do not add blush unless you prefer it. The photographed doll relies on clean minimal features and soft proportions. That restraint is what gives the bunny its elegant handmade look. Keep every facial stitch fine, centered, and symmetrical.

Dress and Clothing

Bodice Foundation

The dress base sits under the open vest. The upper torso visible in the image is cream, so the bodice should remain subtle and fitted. You may create a very short cream under-bodice or simply allow the body to show above the skirt. Both approaches match the visual effect.

For a cleaner finish, work a fitted waistband and skirt only, leaving the torso uncovered under the vest. That creates the same appearance as the image, where the cream body peeks between the collar opening and the flower applique on the chest.

Main Skirt

The skirt is one of the most important pieces. It has volume, rich texture, and a floral petal hem. Use mauve-lilac yarn with enough body to hold shape. The upper portion should gather softly, while the bottom edge spreads and lifts into distinct rounded petals.

1. With mauve-lilac, ch a length that fits snugly around the bunny waist, or work from the waist loop created on Rnd 17 of the body if you prefer a permanent skirt.
2. Round 1: 48 sc evenly around and join.
3. Round 2: 3 sc, inc around. (60)
4. Round 3: Sc around. (60)
5. Round 4: 4 sc, inc around. (72)
6. Round 5: Sc around. (72)
7. Round 6: In BLO, 5 sc, inc around. (84)
8. Round 7: Sc around. (84)
9. Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. (96)
10. Round 9: Sc around. (96)

These increase rounds create the bell silhouette. If your yarn is softer, add one more increase round. If it is firm and already standing well, stop here. The skirt should be fuller than the torso but not extremely wide. It must still look refined and wearable.

Textured Lower Skirt

The image shows visible ridging and layered depth across the lower skirt. You can recreate that by alternating standard rounds and front-loop textured rounds. This makes the fabric richer without looking stiff. The texture should stay vertical enough that the petals hang cleanly.

1. Round 10: In FLO, hdc around. (96)
2. Round 11: In both loops, sc around. (96)
3. Round 12: In FLO, hdc around. (96)
4. Round 13: In both loops, sc around. (96)
5. Round 14: In FLO, hdc around. (96)
6. Round 15: In both loops, sc around. (96)

Petal Hem

The hem is made of large rounded petals, each broad at the base and tapered toward the center point. They overlap slightly in the image and create a floral silhouette. Count your stitches so the petals are evenly spaced all the way around.

1. Divide the hem into 12 equal petal sections of 8 stitches each.
2. For each petal: sl st into first st of section, ch 1, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, sl st into next stitch beyond the section if needed to anchor.
3. On the return shaping row across the petal edge, work sc evenly around the outer edge to define the shape.
4. Fasten off after 12 petals.

If the petals curl too much, lightly steam or finger-shape them. Each petal should project below the round skirt body and remain individually visible. This hem is essential to the final look, so take time to make all petals equal in height and spacing.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Short-Sleeved Vest

The dusty rose vest is open in front, cropped, and softly structured. It includes a simple collar, rounded front edges, and short sleeves that sit close to the shoulder. The vest should end near the top of the skirt and frame the chest applique beautifully.

1. Ch to fit around the upper torso from one front edge, across the back, to the other front edge. Begin with approximately 36 stitches.
2. Row 1: Sc across.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across.
4. Rows 3 to 5: Continue in sc to build a firm yoke.
5. Row 6: Create arm openings by chaining 5 to 6 stitches on each side and skipping matching stitches below.
6. Rows 7 to 12: Work sc evenly around the body of the vest, turning each row.

The front edges should curve downward gently. To shape them, decrease one stitch near each front edge every other row for two or three rows. Stop before the vest becomes too narrow. The image shows rounded fronts that sit open rather than closing over the chest.

Vest Collar

1. Join yarn at the neckline.
2. Work one row of sc evenly around the neckline.
3. For each collar flap, work 6 to 8 stitches wide over the front neckline section.
4. Shape with one decrease at the inner edge every other row for 3 rows.
5. Finish with a clean sc edging around the entire vest, including sleeve openings.

The sleeves are short and soft. If you want a more finished look, add one small round of sc or hdc around each armhole. Keep them close-fitting. The collar points should be visible and neat, sitting flat without heavy curling.

Beret

The oversized beret sits low and slants to one side. It is soft but full, with a shallow center nub at the crown. This accessory gives the bunny much of its character, so make it wide enough to cover the top of the head generously.

1. With dusty rose, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Continue increasing evenly each round until you reach 72 to 84 stitches, depending on yarn thickness.
7. Work 4 to 5 rounds even.
8. Begin decrease rounds evenly until the inner opening fits the bunny head snugly, ending around 48 to 54 stitches.
9. Work 2 rounds even for the band.

For the top nub, make a tiny tube of 4 to 5 sc for 2 or 3 rounds and sew it to the crown center. When placing the beret, tilt it so one ear is more hidden and the flower vine can drape alongside the face.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are Mary Jane style, dusty rose, with open oval instep spaces and a narrow ankle strap feel. They should hug the feet closely and show a cream opening at the top, matching the image’s delicate footwear.

1. Start with the same base stitch count as the foot opening, approximately 12 to 14 stitches.
2. Work 3 rounds of sc around the foot.
3. On the top center, skip several stitches to form the opening, chaining lightly across if needed.
4. Continue one more round around the remaining shoe edge.
5. Add a small strap by chaining 5 to 6 and sewing across the front ankle area.

Keep the shoe tops slightly rounded, not sharply pointed. The opening should reveal the cream leg beneath. The shoes in the image are simple and handmade, so avoid over-complicating with buttons or thick soles.

Bleeding Heart Motifs and Accessories

Chest Applique

The center chest embellishment is a vertical bleeding-heart motif in layered pink tones with a tiny white drop below. It hangs just inside the vest opening and adds the visual center line for the entire outfit. Keep it narrow and neatly placed.

1. Make 2 medium heart-like blossoms, one light pink and one deep rose.
2. For each blossom, ch 4, work 2 dc into the first ch, 1 dc, 3 dc, ch 1, sl st into same base to form a tiny heart bulb.
3. Add a small white drop using 2 or 3 sc worked into a short chain.
4. Sew blossoms vertically onto a sage stem and attach to the chest.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Long Flower Vine by the Ear

This trailing vine is very visible and should drape from the beret area beside the bunny’s face. Use a flexible stem so it curves naturally. The blossoms are clustered and slightly descending, with sage leaves near the top and tiny hanging pink-and-white hearts below.

1. Chain a long sage stem, about 18 to 24 chains depending on your doll size.
2. Work back along the chain with sl st or sc for a firmer stem.
3. Add 2 small sage leaves near the top using short chains worked into pointed leaf shapes.
4. Make 3 larger pink blossoms and 2 smaller dark rose hanging blossoms.
5. Attach white teardrop tips under the lower blossoms.
6. Sew or wrap each motif along the stem so the cluster looks cascading, not flat.

If desired, enclose thin craft wire inside the stem. That makes it easier to pose the vine so it falls gently beside the face. Without wire, crochet the stem tightly and stitch it in several places to the beret and ear area.

Hand-Held Bleeding Heart Stem

The bunny also holds a separate flowering stem across the lap. This piece is broader than the face vine and includes several sage leaves and heart-shaped blossoms. It should lie diagonally, extending from the left side of the lap toward the center.

1. Make a sage stem slightly longer than the bunny’s forearm.
2. Add 4 to 5 leaves in varying sizes, using chains and sc or hdc to shape each leaf.
3. Make 3 to 4 hanging blossoms in two pink shades.
4. Add tiny white tips at the ends of the lower blossoms.
5. Sew securely and place in the hand after arm attachment.

Heart Purse

The dusty rose purse is a small stuffed heart with a long strap. It hangs from the bunny’s left arm and rests near the bench edge. Keep it plump enough to read as a bag, but not so large that it competes with the skirt and flower branch.

1. Make 2 flat heart panels in dusty rose.
2. For each panel, begin with two small rounded lobes and join into a point using sc and hdc shaping.
3. Place panels together and sc around, stuffing lightly before closing.
4. Create a long cord strap with chained stitches or Romanian cord and sew to the upper sides.

Miniature Book

The tiny brown book sits on the bunny’s lap. It is rectangular, warm brown, and simple. This little object adds storybook charm, so crisp edges are helpful. A lightly stuffed version works, but a thin insert gives the neatest photographed result.

1. Ch a small rectangle, approximately 10 by 14 stitches.
2. Work enough rows to create one flat panel for the cover.
3. Fold around a small cardboard insert or two cream inner pages.
4. Sew the edges closed, leaving one fold edge soft like a spine.
5. Add a small flap or tie if desired, but keep details minimal.

Companion Bunny

The tiny companion bunny mirrors the main figure. It has the same cream body, long ears, dusty rose beret, dusty rose collar or capelet, mauve skirt, and a tiny dusty rose purse. Keep the proportions simplified, but preserve the same overall silhouette.

Companion Body

1. Make 2 tiny legs beginning with 6 sc in MR, increasing to 8 or 10 stitches, and working straight for 6 to 8 rounds.
2. Join legs and form a body of approximately 18 to 20 stitches.
3. Work straight for 5 to 6 rounds.
4. Increase for the head up to 30 to 36 stitches.
5. Work several rounds even, insert tiny eyes, and decrease to close.

Companion Arms and Ears

• Arms: start with 5 or 6 sc in MR, work short narrow tubes, stuff lightly, and sew high on the sides.
• Ears: begin with 6 sc in MR, increase to 10 or 12 stitches, then work narrow flat ear lengths and close flat.
• Face: embroider the same tiny nose and mouth style as the main bunny.

Companion Outfit

• Beret: make a very small dusty rose beret using the same increase-and-decrease logic as the main hat.
• Collar: create a short dusty rose capelet or collar using a small neckline chain and one or two rows with slight increases.
• Skirt: make a gathered mauve mini skirt with visible petal-like lower texture.
• Purse: make a mini dusty rose heart purse with a stitched strap.

📌Thank you for reading the article

The companion bunny should look like a storybook echo of the larger one. Keep its styling coordinated, but do not overload with too many details. The main visual priorities are the little beret, layered outfit colors, and recognizable bunny silhouette.

Assembly

Attach the Ears

Sew the ears high on the head, slightly behind the eye line. One ear should fall more visibly down the right side of the body, while the other sits more under the beret. Let them angle outward just a little, then relax downward naturally.

Attach the Arms

Sew the arms at the upper sides of the torso, just below the neck. Angle them downward so the hands rest near the skirt. One hand should be able to support the flower branch, and the other should fall close enough for the purse strap to look believable.

Dress the Bunny

Fit the skirt first, then place the vest over the torso. The vest should sit open and stop above the fullest section of the skirt. Next, add the beret at a slight angle. Check that all dusty rose pieces harmonize and do not hide the face excessively.

Place the Accessories

Sew the chest applique inside the vest opening. Attach the long flower vine near the beret and ear. Stitch the hand-held stem lightly to the hand and lap area if the doll is intended for display. Add the purse loop and position the book on the skirt.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all major pieces are attached, look at the bunny from the front before knotting anything permanently. The face should remain centered, the vest fronts should match, and the skirt petals should be spaced evenly. Small alignment changes make a very big difference in this design.

• Check that both eyes sit at the same height.
• Keep the nose small and the mouth line short.
• Tilt the beret slightly to one side for the exact character of the photographed piece.
• Arrange the flower vine so it frames the face without covering the eye.
• Position the lap branch diagonally for a natural storytelling look.

Care Notes

This doll contains shaped clothing and small accessories, so it is best treated as a decorative handmade item rather than rough-play plush. Gentle handling will help the petals, hat, collar, and flower details keep their intended structure for a long time.

• Store away from direct sunlight to protect soft pink and mauve shades.
• Keep the doll seated or supported so the skirt holds its shape.
• Avoid over-compressing the beret and flower vines during storage.
• If gifting to a child, securely embroider or firmly attach all small elements.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head: large, smooth, round, and evenly stuffed
• Ears: long, flat, soft, and hanging naturally
• Vest: open front, rounded collar, short sleeves
• Skirt: full bell shape with visible petal hem
• Beret: oversized and gently tilted
• Shoes: dusty rose with visible cream opening
• Accessories: chest applique, face vine, lap branch, heart purse, tiny book, companion bunny

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot cleaning is the safest method. Use a barely damp cloth and pat gently instead of rubbing. Let the piece dry fully in open air, reshaping the skirt petals, beret, and flower stems while the fibers settle back into place.

If deeper cleaning becomes necessary, remove any internal cardboard from the book first if possible. Hand wash very gently in cool water with mild soap, press out excess water in a towel, then dry flat. Never twist the doll, and never hang it by the ears or purse strap.

• Reshape the head and cheeks while damp if needed.
• Straighten the vest fronts before drying.
• Separate each skirt petal by hand so the hem stays defined.
• Re-curve the flower vines once dry for the prettiest display finish.

Closing Notes

This bunny design is all about gentle romance, careful proportion, and layered handmade detail. Take your time with the flowers, collar, petal hem, and accessories, because those finishing elements transform a simple rabbit doll into the exact elegant character shown in the image.

When complete, the main bunny and tiny companion should look coordinated, soft, and story-rich, with every detail working together: cream body, dusty rose accents, mauve floral skirt, delicate shoes, hanging blossoms, and treasured little objects held close in the lap and hand.