Lupine Letter Bunny – Crochet

This sweet heirloom-style bunny is designed as a collectible amigurumi doll with a soft lavender beret, a scalloped skirt, a floral yoke, Mary Jane shoes, and a set of tiny storybook accessories. It has the look of a handmade boutique plush toy, a nursery gift, and a collectible stuffed rabbit all in one.

The matching envelope purse, little book, lupine bouquet, and miniature dressed mouse make this design especially appealing for readers searching for amigurumi doll crochet, bunny plush decor, handmade rabbit gift ideas, and collectible crochet toys with accessories. Every section below is written to help you recreate the full scene as closely as possible.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design creates a standing bunny with a large rounded head, long soft ears, a compact torso, straight arms, straight legs, and a lightly flared skirt. The overall look is gentle and balanced rather than oversized or highly stylized.

The head is slightly wider than the body. The ears are long, narrow, and relaxed, hanging down beside the head. The beret sits low and wide, with a soft slouch toward one side. A shaped bow is attached to the beret and a second bow rests at the neckline.

The sweater has a smooth cream base with a row of upright lupine flowers worked as appliqué or surface detailing. The skirt is made in vertical cream and lavender panels, with floral accents and small openwork eyelet columns that visually divide the panels.

The accessories complete the scene and should not be skipped if you want the finished display to match the image closely. The envelope-style pouch, the tiny book, the bouquet, and the miniature mouse companion all add charm and scale.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light cream or warm ivory cotton or cotton-blend DK weight
• Lavender yarn: soft dusty lavender for beret, bows, shoes, skirt panels, and flower accents
• Pale lilac yarn: for alternate skirt panels and some lupine blossoms
• Medium purple yarn: for deeper flower accents
• Blue-lilac yarn: for cool-toned lupine blossoms
• Leaf green yarn: medium leaf green for stems and leaves
• Tan or camel yarn: for the mouse body and tiny satchel
• Pink-beige embroidery yarn: for nose and mouth
• Black safety eyes: 8 mm for bunny, 4 mm for mouse
• Hook sizes: 2.25 mm for the main pieces, 2.0 mm for tiny accessories if needed
• Stuffing: soft polyester fiberfill
• Optional weighted pellets: for the lower body and feet
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Sewing pins or clips
• Thin craft plastic or cardboard: for book covers and purse base if desired
• Small button bead: for the envelope pouch flap if desired

Finished Size

The main bunny measures about 10 to 12 inches tall when made with DK yarn and a 2.25 mm hook. The miniature mouse measures about 4 to 5 inches tall. Small differences in yarn thickness and stuffing density will slightly change the size.

Gauge and Tension

Exact gauge is less important than keeping your stitches tight and even. The fabric should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. For a polished result, size down your hook if your stitches look open or stretchy.

This design depends on firm shaping. The head should stay round, the ears should hang softly without collapsing into flat ribbons, and the skirt should hold its flare without becoming stiff.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• blo = back loop only
• flo = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rep = repeat

Notes Before You Begin

• Work the bunny, mouse, and small accessories in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.
• Use a stitch marker and move it every round.
• Stuff gradually and firmly, especially in the head, neck base, hips, and feet.
• When the pattern says to flatten a piece, align the stitches neatly before crocheting or sewing it closed.
• The floral motifs can be made as tiny appliqués and sewn on, or added with surface slip stitch and embroidery. Appliqué gives the closest raised look.

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Main Bunny

Head

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rounds 9-17: sc around. (48)

Insert the 8 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12 with about 9 stitches between them. The eyes should sit low enough to leave room for the beret and to keep the face sweet and childlike.

Embroider a small triangular nose in dusty pink centered one round below the eye line. Add a short straight stitch downward and a tiny soft smile. Keep the facial expression minimal. The face in the image is very clean and uncluttered.

1. Round 18: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
2. Round 19: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
3. Round 20: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
4. Round 21: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)

Stuff the head firmly and evenly. Pay extra attention to the cheeks so the front stays rounded, not flat. The lower part of the head should taper gently to the neck.

1. Round 22: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
2. Round 23: sc around. (18)

Do not fasten off if you prefer to continue directly into the neck and upper body. If you make the head separately, leave a long tail for sewing.

Body

The body is a neat, lightly tapered shape with a soft waist. It should be narrower than the head and designed to fit under the floral sweater and skirt.

1. Round 1: Starting from the neck opening, work 18 sc. (18)
2. Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
3. Round 3: sc around. (24)
4. Round 4: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
5. Rounds 5-8: sc around. (30)
6. Round 9: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
7. Rounds 10-11: sc around. (24)
8. Round 12: (2 sc, inc) x 8. (32)
9. Rounds 13-15: sc around. (32)

Add a small amount of weighted filling to the lower body if you want the doll to stand better with support. Continue stuffing firmly but do not overfill the waist.

1. Round 16: (2 sc, dec) x 8. (24)
2. Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)

Fasten off, leaving a tail if you made the body separately. The skirt will cover the lower body, so the body does not need dramatic shaping.

Legs Make 2

The legs are simple, straight, and soft, ending in rounded feet hidden inside Mary Jane shoes. The visible part of each leg should be slim and even.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: sc around in blo. (18)
5. Round 5: sc around. (18)
6. Round 6: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc. (14)
7. Round 7: sc around. (14)
8. Round 8: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc. (13)
9. Rounds 9-18: sc around. (13)

Stuff the foot firmly, then more lightly through the leg. Flatten the top only slightly when joining to the body. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew the legs to the underside of the body so they hang straight down. The feet should point forward evenly. The bunny in the image has a balanced standing posture with a slight outward softness to the legs.

Arms Make 2

The arms are tubular, softly stuffed, and attached slightly angled downward. They are not overly long and end just around the waist area when sewn in place.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x 3. (12)
4. Rounds 4-16: sc around. (12)

Stuff lightly. Flatten the top of each arm and sc through both layers for 5 stitches, or leave open for sewing. Sew arms to the sides of the body just under the neckline. Angle them slightly toward the front.

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Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and gently rounded at the ends. They should be firm enough to keep their shape but soft enough to drape beside the face.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rounds 4-8: sc around. (18)
5. Round 9: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)
6. Rounds 10-22: sc around. (12)
7. Round 23: (4 sc, dec) x 2. (10)
8. Rounds 24-28: sc around. (10)

Do not stuff, or add only a trace of stuffing at the base if needed. Flatten the opening and sew the ears to the head under the beret line, a little behind the eye line. They should hang down to about chest level.

Clothing for the Main Bunny

Beret

The beret is one of the most important visual details. It should be broad, soft, and slightly slouched to one side. The brim sits low over the top of the forehead but leaves the eyes fully visible.

1. Round 1: With lavender, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Round 11: (9 sc, inc) x 6. (66)
12. Rounds 12-15: sc around. (66)
13. Round 16: (9 sc, dec) x 6. (60)
14. Round 17: (8 sc, dec) x 6. (54)
15. Round 18: (7 sc, dec) x 6. (48)
16. Round 19: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
17. Round 20: sc around in blo. (42)
18. Round 21: sc around. (42)
19. Round 22: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
20. Round 23: sc around. (36)

Fasten off with a long tail. Test the fit before sewing or leaving removable. The beret should sit securely but not squeeze the head. Shape it with your fingers so the fullness droops softly toward the bunny’s right side.

Beret Bow

The side bow is structured rather than floppy. It has two distinct loops and short tails, with a center wrap.

1. Ch 13.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (12)
3. Rows 2-7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)

Fasten off. Fold both short ends toward the center and pinch. Wrap yarn tightly around the middle several times. For tails, make a second small rectangle:

1. Ch 9.
2. Row 1: sc across. (8)
3. Rows 2-3: sc across. (8)

Cut in half diagonally or fold to suggest two tails. Sew behind the bow center, then sew the finished bow to the side of the beret.

Neck Bow

Make another bow in the same style but slightly larger and softer in shape. Use a rectangle of 14 stitches wide and 6 rows tall, then cinch the center. Sew at the neckline so it sits flat and centered over the chest.

Sweater Bodice

The top appears as a cream bodice with floral decoration across the lower chest. This section can be made as a fitted cover over the torso or as surface embellishment worked directly onto the doll.

For the cleanest finish, make a separate bodice panel worked in joined rounds from the top down.

1. Round 1: With cream, ch 28 and join carefully without twisting.
2. Rounds 2-6: sc around. (28)
3. Round 7: (6 sc, inc) x 4. (32)
4. Rounds 8-9: sc around. (32)

Slip this over the body and adjust if needed. Sew neatly in place at the back. The bodice should end where the skirt begins.

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Lupine Floral Motifs for Bodice

There are five upright floral clusters across the bunny’s chest area. The flowers are slim and slightly tapered, with green leaves at the base. Use a mix of blue-lilac, soft lavender, pale lilac, and purple.

For each flower spike:

1. Ch 7 with blossom color.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, work 1 sl st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc.
3. Fasten off, leaving a tail.

Make 5 to 7 blossom spikes in varied lengths. Layer two or three small spikes vertically for each plant. Sew them onto the bodice so each flower looks like a narrow lupine stem with clustered petals.

For leaves and stems:

1. With green, embroider a straight stem under each flower cluster.
2. Add two angled leaves near the base using satin stitch or tiny chain loops.

Arrange the flowers in a gentle row. The center cluster should be tallest, with neighboring blooms slightly shorter. This placement helps match the look in the image.

Skirt

The skirt is flared and made of alternating vertical panels in cream and pastel purple tones. Between the panels are little eyelet ladders that visually separate the sections. The hem is softly scalloped.

Work the skirt from the waist downward in joined rounds.

1. Round 1: With cream, ch 36, join. (36)
2. Round 2: sc around. (36)
3. Round 3: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
4. Round 4: sc around. (42)
5. Round 5: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
6. Round 6: sc around. (48)

Now begin panel division. Mark 8 vertical panel sections of 4 to 5 stitches each. Alternate cream, pale lavender, lavender, cream, pale lilac, lavender, cream, pale blue-lilac. Work color changes neatly at the back or inside stitches.

To create visual eyelet columns, use one stitch between some panels as ch 1, skip 1 on one round, then work back into the chain space on the next round. Keep these openings tiny and decorative.

1. Rounds 7-11: Continue the panel colors, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the skirt by Round 11 to reach 54 stitches.

For floral appliqué on the skirt, make four small lupine clusters using the same method as the bodice flowers, but slightly larger. Sew one cluster onto every other front-facing panel.

For the hem, work a soft scallop round:

1. Final Round: (sl st, skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st) around, adjusting as needed for an even finish.

Sew the skirt neatly around the waistline of the bunny. The skirt should stand away from the body a little and form a soft bell shape, not lie flat against the legs.

Mary Jane Shoes Make 2

The shoes are lavender with a rounded toe and a narrow instep strap. They fit over the crocheted feet and should look tidy rather than bulky.

1. Round 1: With lavender, ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook: 5 sc, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side 4 sc, inc. (14)
2. Round 2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20)
3. Round 3: sc around in blo. (20)
4. Round 4: 6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc. (16)
5. Round 5: sc around. (16)

Fasten off. Stitch onto the foot. For the strap, attach yarn at one side of the opening, ch 6, sl st to the other side. Add a tiny stitched nub or knot to suggest the small side button seen in the image.

Main Accessories

Envelope Letter Purse

This purse is flat, rectangular, and cream colored, with a triangular flap and a small button closure. It sits beside the bunny in the image and should look like a tiny crocheted stationery pouch.

1. Ch 16.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 14.
3. Rows 2-14: ch 1, turn, sc 14.

Do not fasten off. Fold the lower third upward to form the pouch body. Sew side seams. Continue for the flap:

1. Row 15: sc 14
2. Row 16: dec, 10 sc, dec. (12)
3. Row 17: dec, 8 sc, dec. (10)
4. Row 18: dec, 6 sc, dec. (8)
5. Row 19: dec, 4 sc, dec. (6)
6. Row 20: dec, 2 sc, dec. (4)

Fasten off. Add a ch cord or twisted yarn strap. Sew a tiny button bead on the front and make a loop on the flap if desired.

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Tiny Book

The little book is cream with visible pages. Make two rectangles for the covers and one slightly smaller rectangle in white or off-white for the pages.

1. For each cover: ch 9, sc 8 across for 6 rows.
2. For page block: ch 8, sc 7 across for 5 rows.

Place the page block between the covers and sew along one side like a spine. A small piece of cardboard inside the covers helps the book keep its neat shape.

Lupine Bouquet

The bouquet has several small bloom spikes in cool purple and blue tones with green stems tied together. Make 5 or 6 miniature stems.

1. For each flower spike: ch 6 in blossom color.
2. Work 1 sl st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc back down the chain.
3. With green, ch 5 for stem and fasten off.

Sew or tie the stems together with a strand of tan or cream yarn. Trim evenly.

Miniature Mouse Companion

The small companion in the image reads like a tiny dressed mouse with round ears, a cream face, tan body, a lavender beret, a neck bow, a cream top, a soft blue-lilac skirt, and a small camel satchel. It adds storybook charm and should be made with the same care as the main doll.

Mouse Head and Body

1. Round 1: With tan, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rounds 5-8: sc around. (24)

Switch to cream for the lower face if desired by working partial color changes across the front rounds. Insert 4 mm eyes between Rounds 6 and 7 with about 5 stitches between them. Embroider a tiny pink nose and small smile.

1. Round 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
2. Round 10: sc around. (18)
3. Round 11: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)

Stuff the head firmly. Continue directly into the body:

1. Round 12: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
2. Rounds 13-15: sc around. (18)
3. Round 16: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)

Stuff lightly and close. Shape into a neat pear-like figure.

Mouse Ears Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)

Fasten off. Flatten slightly and sew high on the head.

Mouse Arms Make 2

1. Round 1: 4 sc in MR.
2. Rounds 2-6: sc around. (4)

Stuff very lightly and sew to the sides.

Mouse Legs Make 2

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. (10)
3. Rounds 3-5: sc around. (10)

Sew under the body so the mouse can sit or lean.

Mouse Beret

Work a tiny beret in lavender using the same shaping logic as the bunny beret, but stop at 30 stitches for the widest point, then decrease to 18 for the opening.

Mouse Neck Bow

Make a tiny bow from a rectangle 8 stitches wide and 3 rows tall. Cinch in the center and sew at the neck.

Mouse Top and Skirt

For the cream top, crochet a narrow body cover that fits around the torso. For the skirt, ch a strip, increase slightly, and add a subtle scalloped edge in pale blue-lilac. Keep proportions tiny and neat.

Mouse Satchel

Make a small flat pouch in camel yarn. Use the same method as the envelope purse but much smaller. Add a narrow chain strap and place it diagonally across the body.

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Color Placement Guide

• Bunny body, head, ears, arms, legs: warm cream
• Beret and bows: dusty lavender
• Bunny shoes: dusty lavender
• Bodice: cream with purple and blue lupines
• Skirt panels: alternating cream, lavender, pale lilac, and blue-lilac
• Floral leaves and stems: medium leaf green
• Purse and little book: cream
• Mouse body: tan with cream face and cream top
• Mouse skirt: pale blue-lilac
• Mouse beret and bow: lavender
• Mouse satchel: camel

Shaping Tips for an Accurate Finish

Keep the head very round and smooth. Avoid under-stuffing, which can make the face wrinkle. The eyes should sit evenly and the nose must remain tiny. A large nose or heavy mouth line will change the entire expression.

The ears should be attached just slightly behind the centerline of the head, not directly at the sides. This lets them frame the face softly and sit naturally beneath the beret.

The beret needs enough width to create that plush, slouched look. If yours fits too closely, add one more increase round before decreasing for the brim.

The skirt looks best when lightly blocked by hand. Smooth the scallops and spread the panels before stitching it permanently in place.

The floral details should be slim and upright. Do not make the blossoms too round. The flowers in the image read as little lupine spikes, so vertical shaping matters more than fullness.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew head to body securely, reinforcing the neck well.
2. Attach ears under the beret line, letting them hang beside the face.
3. Sew arms slightly angled downward and forward.
4. Attach legs evenly so the doll balances well when propped.
5. Add the bodice, then sew on the floral motifs.
6. Attach the skirt around the waist.
7. Sew on the shoes and instep straps.
8. Position the beret and tack it lightly in a few hidden spots.
9. Sew the side bow to the beret and the second bow at the neckline.
10. Check the face from the front before securing final threads.

For the sweetest expression, keep the eyes level, the nose centered, and the smile very small. A little cheek shaping with a strand pulled gently through the face can be added, but keep it subtle.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from strong direct sunlight.
• Handle tiny accessories gently and store them together when not displayed.
• Keep away from rough play if using small sewn decorations or safety eyes.
• Light steaming from a distance can help reshape bows and the skirt edge.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears placed evenly under the beret?
• Does the beret slouch softly to one side?
• Is the neck bow centered and flat?
• Are the bodice flowers balanced across the front?
• Does the skirt flare gently with visible panel changes?
• Are the shoes aligned evenly on both feet?
• Did you complete the envelope purse, little book, bouquet, and mouse?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Avoid soaking, especially if the piece contains weighted filling, cardboard supports, or glued details.

If the doll becomes dusty, use a soft dry brush and work gently around the floral appliqué, bows, and face. Store in a clean dry box wrapped loosely in tissue if you are not displaying it for a long period.

Do not machine wash. Do not tumble dry. If reshaping is needed after storage, gently restuff by hand pressure, smooth the fabric, and allow the doll to rest upright before returning the accessories.