Knitting Tutorial: The “Seashell Basket” Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This soft heirloom-style bunny set is designed to look like a boutique knit toy you might search for in a handmade gift shop, a luxury nursery décor collection, or an artisan stuffed animal pattern bundle. The set includes the tall bunny, cable dress, blue toggle coat, ribbed pom-pom hat with ear flaps, booties, a netted seashell basket filled with pastel eggs, and a tiny octopus friend in a knitted beanie. The finished look is calm, coastal, and cozy, with gentle neutrals and pale blue tones that photograph beautifully for gifting, display, or seasonal handmade toy collections.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern is written in US English and is worked as a collection of separate knitted pieces that are sewn together with careful shaping. The bunny is built with a long oval body, a large rounded head, narrow dangling ears, short shaped arms, short stable legs, a cable-front dress, a textured coat, and a deeply folded rib hat topped with an oversized pom-pom.

The proportions are important. The head is slightly wider than the neck and nearly as wide as the upper body. The body is tall and softly tapered. The ears fall straight down from the sides of the head. The feet are short and wide enough to let the bunny stand when balanced and lightly weighted.

The coat is intentionally boxy and a little oversized. The dress peeks out below it. The hat sits low over the forehead, with a broad folded brim and long ear flaps. The basket is small and rounded, with a flexible open net surrounding pale stuffed eggs. The tiny octopus is squat, soft, and cute rather than realistic.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 14 inches / 35.5 cm tall from feet to top of head, not including pom-pom
• Hat with pom-pom: adds about 3 inches / 7.5 cm
• Basket: about 3 inches / 7.5 cm wide
• Mini octopus: about 2 1/4 inches / 5.7 cm tall including hat

Materials

• Main yarn A: cream or warm ivory DK wool or wool blend for bunny, dress, basket, and hat accents
• Yarn B: pale dusty blue DK wool or wool blend for coat, booties, and basket eggs
• Yarn C: soft beige DK wool or wool blend for hat
• Yarn D: peach or muted coral DK wool for mini octopus
• Small scraps: pale mint, pale aqua, pale blue for eggs inside basket
• Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or magic loop for small pieces
• Needles: US 3 / 3.25 mm straight or circular needles for flat pieces
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Row counter
• Polyfill stuffing
• Optional plastic pellets or steel shot in pouch for weighting the feet and body base
• Black embroidery floss or black perle cotton for eyes
• Matching cream sewing thread for subtle sculpting if desired
• 4 small wooden toggle buttons for coat front

Gauge

Gauge is less important than firmness, but your fabric must be dense enough that stuffing does not show through.

• Stockinette on US 3 / 3.25 mm: 24 sts and 32 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
• Ribbing on US 2 / 2.75 mm: slightly tighter than stockinette

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• dec = decrease
• inc = increase
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• m1L = make 1 left
• m1R = make 1 right
• p = purl
• pm = place marker
• rep = repeat
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side
• [ ] = repeat instructions inside brackets as directed

Pattern Notes

• Most pieces are worked flat and seamed to give better control over shaping and exact proportions.
• Leave long tails for sewing whenever possible.
• Stuff firmly but smoothly. Avoid overstuffing the head so it remains softly rounded.
• The face is extremely simple. Small stitched eyes and a tiny Y-shaped nose-mouth detail are what create the calm expression.
• Read through the whole pattern before beginning the finishing stage.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Main Bunny

Legs Make 2

Each leg is worked flat from the sole upward, then seamed. The foot should look short and rounded, not long. Use Yarn A for one bunny paw tip and lower leg section, then Yarn B for the visible bootie if desired. In the sample, the bunny’s visible feet appear covered by pale blue booties, so the basic leg is knit in Yarn A and the bootie is added separately.

Using Yarn A and US 2 needles, CO 10 sts.

1. Rows 1 and 2: Knit.
2. Row 3: K1, m1L, k8, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
3. Row 4: Knit.
4. Row 5: K1, m1L, k10, m1R, k1. 14 sts.
5. Rows 6 through 10: Begin stockinette flat, working RS rows knit and WS rows purl.
6. Row 11: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
7. Row 12: Purl.
8. Row 13: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
9. Rows 14 through 24: Work stockinette.
10. BO all sts knitwise.

Fold each leg in half lengthwise and seam. Stuff the foot area firmly and the upper leg lightly. Flatten the top opening and stitch closed later when attaching to the body.

Arms Make 2

The arms are short and softly tapered, with slightly mitten-like cream paws visible at the sleeve openings.

Using Yarn A and US 2 needles, CO 8 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 4: Work stockinette, ending after a WS row.
2. Change to Yarn A still if making full cream arms, or keep as cream since sleeves will cover most of the arm.
3. Row 5: K1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
4. Rows 6 through 12: Work stockinette.
5. Row 13: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
6. Rows 14 through 20: Work stockinette.
7. BO all sts.

Seam each arm, stuffing only lightly. Keep the hand ends soft and narrow.

Body

The body is worked flat in two identical pieces and sewn together. This gives a stable front and back and allows the dress to sit neatly over the finished form. The body must be taller than it is wide, with gently rounded shoulders and a subtly wider lower half.

Using Yarn A and US 3 needles, CO 26 sts.

1. Rows 1 and 2: Knit.
2. Row 3: K1, m1L, k24, m1R, k1. 28 sts.
3. Row 4: Purl.
4. Rows 5 through 11: Work stockinette.
5. Row 12: Purl.
6. Row 13: K1, m1L, k26, m1R, k1. 30 sts.
7. Rows 14 through 26: Work stockinette.
8. Row 27: K1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1. 28 sts.
9. Row 28: Purl.
10. Rows 29 through 35: Work stockinette.
11. Row 36: K1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1. 26 sts.
12. Rows 37 through 43: Work stockinette.
13. Row 44: K2, ssk, k18, k2tog, k2. 24 sts.
14. Row 45: Purl.
15. Rows 46 through 52: Work stockinette.
16. Row 53: K2, ssk, k16, k2tog, k2. 22 sts.
17. Rows 54 through 60: Work stockinette.
18. BO all sts.

Make a second identical body piece.

Seam the sides and lower edge, leaving the top open. Insert a small weight pouch in the base if desired. Stuff firmly at the bottom and medium-firm through the torso. The finished body should stand with a flat underside and a softly oval upper portion.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Head

The head is larger than the neck and nearly round, but slightly taller than wide. It is worked in two flat pieces. The face must remain smooth, so use neat mattress stitch and even stuffing.

Using Yarn A and US 3 needles, CO 16 sts.

1. Row 1: Knit.
2. Row 2: Purl.
3. Row 3: K1, m1L, k14, m1R, k1. 18 sts.
4. Row 4: Purl.
5. Row 5: K1, m1L, k16, m1R, k1. 20 sts.
6. Row 6: Purl.
7. Row 7: K1, m1L, k18, m1R, k1. 22 sts.
8. Row 8: Purl.
9. Row 9: K1, m1L, k20, m1R, k1. 24 sts.
10. Row 10: Purl.
11. Row 11: K1, m1L, k22, m1R, k1. 26 sts.
12. Row 12: Purl.
13. Rows 13 through 27: Work stockinette.
14. Row 28: P2tog, p22, p2tog through back loops if preferred, p? No. Keep flat shaping simple. Work as: P1, p2tog, p20, p2tog, p1. 24 sts.
15. Row 29: K1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1. 22 sts.
16. Row 30: Purl.
17. Row 31: K1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1. 20 sts.
18. Row 32: Purl.
19. Row 33: K1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
20. Row 34: Purl.
21. Row 35: K1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
22. BO all sts.

Make a second identical head piece.

Seam around, leaving a gap at the lower edge. Stuff firmly but do not stretch the fabric. The head should look plump and smooth, with a gentle front fullness for the muzzle area. Sew the opening closed after attaching to the body.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and softly drooping. They are not floppy from excessive width; instead, they hang because they are slender and lightly stuffed or left unstuffed.

Using Yarn A and US 2 needles, CO 8 sts.

1. Rows 1 and 2: Work stockinette flat.
2. Row 3: K1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
3. Rows 4 through 10: Work stockinette.
4. Row 11: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
5. Rows 12 through 28: Work stockinette.
6. Row 29: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
7. Rows 30 through 34: Work stockinette.
8. BO all sts.

Make a second ear. Seam lightly. Do not overstuff; a tiny wisp of stuffing at the base only is enough. Flatten gently before attaching.

Cable Dress

The dress is worked flat in one piece from lower hem to neckline. It is sleeveless and simple, with a central cable texture panel that matches the photo. The hem is softly rounded by the natural fabric, not by heavy flare.

Using Yarn A and US 3 needles, CO 34 sts.

Set-up for texture panel:

• Side border: 6 sts stockinette each side
• Center cable panel: 22 sts

Cable Panel Row Pattern on RS rows:

• Rows A: k4, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k4 within the center 22 sts
• Rows B: work sts as they appear
• On every 8th RS row, cross the inner 2-st columns to create a soft braided cable effect

Full dress instructions:

1. Rows 1 through 6: Knit every row for garter hem.
2. Row 7 RS: K6, work Row A of center panel over 22 sts, k6.
3. Row 8 WS: P6, work sts as they appear across center panel, p6.
4. Repeat Rows 7 and 8, working the cable crossing on every 8th RS row, until piece measures about 6 1/4 inches / 16 cm from cast-on.

To make the cable crossing row within the center 22 sts:

• Work first 6 center sts in pattern.
• Slip next 1 st to cable needle and hold in back, k1, then k1 from cable needle.
• P2.
• Slip next 1 st to cable needle and hold in front, k1, then k1 from cable needle.
• Work final 6 center sts in pattern.

After the 6 1/4 inch / 16 cm length is reached, shape armholes.

1. Next Row RS: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 32 sts.
2. Next Row WS: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 30 sts.
3. Next Row RS: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 28 sts.
4. Work 5 rows even.
5. Next Row RS: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 26 sts.
6. Work 5 rows even.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Shape neckline:

1. Next Row RS: Work 10 sts in pattern, BO center 6 sts, work remaining 10 sts.
2. Work each side separately.
3. Decrease 1 st at neck edge every RS row 2 times. 8 sts each shoulder.
4. Work 2 rows even.
5. BO shoulder sts.

Sew shoulder seams and back seam, leaving a neat opening if needed for dressing the bunny. The dress should fit close to the body and extend below the coat hem.

Blue Toggle Coat

The coat is worked in separate back, left front, right front, and sleeves. It should look thick, cozy, and slightly oversized. The front edges are straight so the wooden toggles sit visibly on top rather than through worked buttonholes.

Back

Using Yarn B and US 3 needles, CO 30 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 4: K1, p1 rib.
2. Rows 5 through 25: Work stockinette.
3. Row 26 RS: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 26 sts.
4. Rows 28 through 34: Work stockinette.
5. Row 35 RS: K8, BO 10 sts, k8.
6. Row 36 WS: P8, CO 10 sts, p8. 26 sts.
7. Rows 37 through 40: Work stockinette.
8. BO all sts.

The slit made in Rows 35 and 36 softens the neck and lets the coat sit around the head base more naturally.

Left Front

Using Yarn B, CO 18 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 4: Work k1, p1 rib.
2. Rows 5 through 25: Work stockinette, keeping the front edge straight.
3. Row 26 WS: BO 2 sts at armhole edge. 16 sts.
4. Rows 27 through 30: Work even.
5. Row 31 RS: At neck edge, work to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 15 sts.
6. Row 32 WS: Purl.
7. Repeat neck decrease every RS row 4 more times. 11 sts.
8. Work even until front matches back shoulder height.
9. BO 11 sts.

Right Front

Work as Left Front, reversing shaping. On neck decrease rows: k1, k2tog at neck edge.

Sleeves Make 2

Using Yarn B, CO 16 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 4: K1, p1 rib.
2. Row 5 RS: K1, m1L, k14, m1R, k1. 18 sts.
3. Rows 6 through 10: Work stockinette.
4. Row 11 RS: K1, m1L, k16, m1R, k1. 20 sts.
5. Rows 12 through 20: Work stockinette.
6. BO all sts.

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew side and sleeve seams. Fold front edges naturally. Attach 4 small wooden toggles decoratively, two on each front edge so they visually align like the photo. You may tack the fronts lightly closed beneath the toggles if you want the coat to stay in position.

Pom-Pom Earflap Hat

The hat is knit flat in one piece from bottom edge upward, then seamed. The broad folded brim is essential to match the image. The ear flaps are built first, then joined into the hat body.

Ear Flaps Make 2

Using Yarn C and US 2 needles, CO 6 sts.

1. Row 1 RS: Knit.
2. Row 2 WS: Purl.
3. Row 3: K1, m1L, k4, m1R, k1. 8 sts.
4. Row 4: Purl.
5. Row 5: K1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 6 through 16: Work k1, p1 rib.
7. Place sts on holder. Make second flap.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Hat Body

With US 2 needles and Yarn C, CO 8 sts. Work first ear flap across 10 sts, CO 18 sts, work second ear flap across 10 sts, CO 8 sts. 46 sts total.

Work 16 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Change to US 3 needles.

1. Rows 17 through 34: Work stockinette.
2. Row 35 RS: K2, k2tog, rep from across. 35 sts.
3. Row 36 WS: Purl.
4. Row 37 RS: K1, [k2tog] across to last st, k1 if needed. About 18 sts.
5. Row 38 WS: Purl.
6. Row 39 RS: [k2tog] across. 9 sts.
7. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight.

Sew back seam. Fold lower ribbing up deeply to create the thick cuff seen in the image. Make a very full pom-pom about 3 inches / 7.5 cm across and attach firmly to the crown.

Booties Make 2

The booties are tiny knitted overshoes in pale blue. They cover the lower legs and give the bunny the winter outfit look from the photo.

Using Yarn B and US 2 needles, CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 and 2: Knit.
2. Rows 3 through 12: Work stockinette.
3. Row 13: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 14: Purl.
5. Rows 15 through 18: Work stockinette.
6. BO all sts.

Seam into little ankle boots and slip over the bunny feet. Tack in place invisibly.

Seashell Basket

This small basket has a solid inner pouch and an open lattice outer shell that gives the airy netted look in the image. The handle is simple and softly arched.

Inner Basket

Using Yarn A and US 2 needles, CO 14 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 18: Work stockinette.
2. BO all sts.

Sew side seam to form a tube. Gather one end closed. Stuff lightly with the knitted eggs and close the upper edge only slightly so the basket remains open.

Egg Fillers Make 3 to 5

Using pale pastel scraps and US 2 needles, CO 6 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 8: Work stockinette.
2. Row 9: K2tog across. 3 sts.
3. Cut yarn and pull through.

Sew seam and stuff lightly into oval egg shapes.

Outer Netted Shell

Using Yarn A and US 2 needles, CO 28 sts loosely.

1. Row 1 WS: Purl.
2. Row 2 RS: K2, yo, k2tog, rep to last 2 sts, k2.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, yo, k2tog, rep to last 1 st, k1.
5. Repeat Rows 1 through 4 three more times.
6. BO loosely.

Wrap this netting around the inner basket and seam it invisibly. It should sag a little and create open diamond shapes.

Handle

Using Yarn A, CO 3 sts.

1. Work i-cord for 22 rows.
2. BO.

Sew handle to opposite sides of basket.

Mini Octopus Friend

This tiny companion is knitted separately and lightly stuffed. The shape in the image is a rounded head with short tentacles and a tiny knit hat.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Body

Using Yarn D and US 2 needles, CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 10: Work stockinette.
2. Row 11: K1, m1L, k10, m1R, k1. 14 sts.
3. Rows 12 through 16: Work stockinette.
4. Row 17: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
5. Row 18: Purl.
6. BO all sts.

Seam into a rounded pouch and stuff lightly.

Tentacles Make 6

Using Yarn D, CO 3 sts for each tentacle.

1. Work i-cord for 6 rows.
2. BO.

Sew 6 tentacles under the body, spreading them evenly.

Mini Hat

Using Yarn C and US 2 needles, CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 through 6: K1, p1 rib.
2. Rows 7 through 10: Stockinette.
3. Row 11: K2tog across. 6 sts.
4. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight.

Sew seam and place snugly on the octopus head.

Final Assembly and Outfit Order

1. Sew the legs evenly to the lower front of the body, spacing them just enough for balance.
2. Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body.
3. Attach the head firmly to the body center.
4. Sew the ears to the sides of the head, beginning just above the eye line and slightly behind the face center so they fall straight down.
5. Dress the bunny in the cable dress first.
6. Add the coat and tack it lightly at the shoulders if needed.
7. Slip on the booties and sew invisibly.
8. Place the hat low on the forehead, with ear flaps falling outside the bunny ears.
9. Position the basket beside the bunny and the octopus friend near the feet for display.

Facial Embroidery Placement

The expression in the image is minimal and calm. Do not make large features.

• Eyes: place two tiny vertical satin stitches or French-knot-like embroidered eyes about 1 inch / 2.5 cm apart, centered horizontally on the face, slightly below the midpoint of the head.
• Nose: embroider a tiny inverted Y shape in matching taupe or cream-brown thread.
• Mouth: extend the lower stem of the nose just a little. Keep it very short.

If you want gentle muzzle shaping, run matching thread from the lower head seam to the nose area and pull lightly once before securing. This should be subtle, not sculpted deeply.

Detailed Making Tips for Accuracy

• Head size matters: if your head looks too small compared with the body, increase each head piece by 2 sts at cast-on and add 2 extra plain rows before decreasing.
• Body taper matters: do not make the torso cylindrical. It should be fuller at the lower half and narrower at the shoulders.
• Ear placement matters: attach ears low enough that they emerge from beneath the hat brim.
• Hat brim matters: make the folded cuff deep and soft. This is one of the strongest visual elements in the photograph.
• Pom-pom fullness matters: use far more yarn than you think. The pom-pom should look oversized and plush.
• Coat proportion matters: it should end above the dress hem, with the dress visible below.
• Basket scale matters: keep it small. It should reach only to around the bunny knee height when placed beside it.

Yarn Color Planning

• Bunny: warm ivory
• Dress: warm ivory matching body
• Coat: pale dusty blue
• Booties: pale dusty blue
• Hat: soft oatmeal beige
• Basket: ivory
• Eggs: pale aqua, pale blue, pale mint
• Octopus: muted peach
• Mini hat: oatmeal beige

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the silhouette before closing every final seam. The bunny should look tall, soft, and centered, with the head slightly oversized, the coat boxy, and the hat sitting low. Embroider the eyes first, then the nose, then adjust ear position if needed before securing the hat permanently.

Care Notes

Display pieces are best kept as decorative toys rather than rough-play toys. If giving to a child, securely fasten all small parts and avoid loose toggles. Spot clean whenever possible and reshape the hat pom-pom by hand after drying.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head smooth and evenly stuffed
• Ears narrow and hanging straight
• Dress centered with cable panel at front
• Coat shorter than dress
• Hat cuff folded deeply
• Pom-pom full and round
• Eyes tiny and evenly spaced
• Basket lightly filled, not overstuffed
• Octopus small enough to sit beside one bunny foot

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use cool water and a wool-safe cleanser for hand washing if needed. Do not twist or wring. Press moisture out in a towel, reshape every piece carefully, and dry flat away from direct heat or sunlight. For long-term storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and keep in a breathable cotton bag.