Crochet Tutorial: Vintage Mauve Gardener Doll – Free Crochet Pattern

This elegant vintage-inspired amigurumi fairy doll combines a romantic mauve palette, layered skirt details, angel wings, and charming garden accessories. It is ideal for readers searching for a collectible crochet doll, heirloom handmade gift, cottagecore room decor, or an artisan-style amigurumi fairy with a refined Victorian look.

The design is especially appealing for makers who love premium crochet doll patterns with floral embellishment, lace styling, miniature handbag details, and statement accessories. It suits display shelves, boutique craft collections, and shoppers looking for a luxury handmade doll aesthetic with soft garden fairy character and timeless feminine charm.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Skin tone yarn: light beige, sport or light DK cotton
• Main dress yarn: dusty mauve or vintage mauve, sport or light DK cotton
• Accent mauve yarn: slightly darker mauve for draped swags and rose details
• Trim yarn: pale pink, soft cream, and muted sage green
• Hair yarn: dark brown or deep charcoal brown
• Highlight hair yarn: muted plum or dusty lavender for a few strands
• Wing yarn: light gray
• Basket yarn: tan or natural straw color
• Crochet hook: 2.0 mm for doll and accessories
• Optional second hook: 1.75 mm for roses and tiny flowers
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Floral wire or light craft wire: optional for hat brim and wing shaping
• Plastic canvas or firm felt: optional for stabilizing the hat brim
• Safety eyes: optional, 6 mm to 7 mm, or embroider eyes as pictured
• Embroidery floss: black, brown, soft pink
• Tulle or fine mesh ribbon: pale mauve
• Narrow satin ribbon: dusty pink
• Cream lace trim: narrow, soft, gathered style
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Fabric glue: optional for non-structural embellishments

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• rep = repeat

Finished Size

Using light DK cotton and a 2.0 mm hook, the finished doll is approximately 15 to 17 inches tall from the base of the skirt to the top of the hat crown. The head is large and rounded, the torso is slim, the skirt is full and floor-length, and the wings extend wider than the shoulders for the same dramatic silhouette shown in the image.

Gauge and Style Notes

The stitches in the pictured doll are tight, smooth, and even. Work with firm tension so the stuffing never shows through. Most visible body areas should look dense and clean, while the gown uses a combination of close fabric and decorative surface layers for volume.

• Gauge: 8 sc x 9 rounds = 2 inches in a spiral circle
• Body parts: work in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise
• Dress layers and accessories: some pieces are worked in joined rounds or rows
• Stuff firmly: especially head, neck base, and upper body
• Use stitch markers: move marker every round

Design Notes for Accuracy

This pattern is written to closely match the photographed doll: a large smooth face, side-parted long dark hair with subtle plum highlights, soft gray wings, a wide mauve hat with roses, a fitted Victorian bodice, dramatic scalloped skirt swags, lace and tulle underlayers, and two gardening accessories carried in each hand.

The doll stands visually because the skirt is broad and structured. The legs are small and mostly hidden. The arms are slender and lightly bent forward. The face is minimal and sweet, with small eyes, fine lashes, a tiny nose, and a faint stitched smile.

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Color Placement Guide

• Skin: head, neck, hands, ears
• Dark brown hair: main hair body
• Muted plum hair: scattered highlight strands near front and lower sections
• Mauve main: bodice, skirt base, hat, purse, gloves, some roses
• Darker mauve: draped swags and lower ornamental strands
• Cream: collar trim, lace accents, flowers
• Gray: wings
• Tan: flower basket
• Green: leaves

Head

Head Base

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Rounds 11 to 23: sc around. (60)

At this stage, embroider the face before closing the head. Place the eyes between Rounds 15 and 16 with approximately 10 visible stitches between them. The eyes in the photo are small and oval, not oversized. Embroider them with black floss and add three outward lashes on each side.

Face Shaping and Embroidery

• Nose: one tiny horizontal stitch centered between the eyes, 2 rounds below eye line
• Mouth: very short soft brown or beige curved stitch one round below the nose
• Blush: light pink brushed or stitched under each eye
• Eyebrows: optional, very subtle, short brown stitches above each eye

The face should remain open and uncluttered. Keep the features tiny. The charm of the doll comes from the smooth face, long lashes, and gentle expression rather than detailed sculpting.

Close the Head

1. Round 24: (8 sc, dec) x 6. (54)
2. Round 25: (7 sc, dec) x 6. (48)
3. Round 26: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
4. Round 27: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
5. Round 28: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
6. Begin stuffing firmly.
7. Round 29: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
8. Round 30: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)

Do not close completely yet if you prefer to attach the neck directly. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Neck and Upper Torso

The neck is slim compared to the head, but it must be reinforced well because the hat, hair, and wings add weight. Use a wooden stick, rolled plastic support, or heavy floral wire wrapped safely if you want extra stability.

1. Round 1: From Round 30 opening, BLO sc around. (18)
2. Rounds 2 to 5: sc around. (18)
3. Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
4. Round 7: sc around. (24)
5. Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rounds 9 to 11: sc around. (30)

Chest Shaping

1. Round 12: 9 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 9 sc. (32)
2. Round 13: sc around. (32)
3. Round 14: 10 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 10 sc. (34)
4. Round 15: sc around. (34)
5. Round 16: (15 sc, dec) x 2. (32)
6. Round 17: sc around. (32)
7. Round 18: (14 sc, dec) x 2. (30)

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The torso should now look slender and slightly tapered, with enough width in the upper chest to support the fitted dress bodice seen in the image.

Lower Torso and Skirt Support Base

1. Round 19: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
2. Round 20: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
3. Round 21: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
4. Round 22: BLO sc around. (48)
5. Round 23: sc around. (48)
6. Round 24: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
7. Round 25: sc around. (54)
8. Round 26: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
9. Round 27: sc around. (60)

This lower section becomes the inner base that supports the heavy outer gown. Stuff only the torso and upper hip area. The wide skirt section may remain lightly stuffed or be supported with a cone of soft fabric, batting, or a lightweight internal frame.

Legs

The legs are not a major visual feature in this doll because the skirt reaches the ground. They only need enough structure to anchor the body. Make 2.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: BLO sc around. (12)
4. Round 4: sc around. (12)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec. (10)
6. Rounds 6 to 14: sc around. (10)
7. Stuff lightly at foot and lower leg only.
8. Round 15: flatten and sc through both sides across 5 sts.

Sew the legs under the lower torso so they angle slightly outward for balance. The doll in the image looks as if the gown itself helps the figure stand, so exact leg visibility is not important.

Arms

The arms are slim, soft, and posed forward to hold accessories. Make 2.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR with skin tone. (6)
2. Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Round 3: sc around. (9)
4. Round 4: Change to mauve glove or sleeve cuff if desired, sc around. (9)
5. Round 5: back to skin or keep mauve at wrist edge, sc around. (9)
6. Round 6: dec, 7 sc. (8)
7. Rounds 7 to 10: sc around. (8)
8. Change to mauve for sleeve.
9. Round 11: inc x 8. (16)
10. Round 12: BLO sc around. (16)
11. Rounds 13 to 16: sc around. (16)
12. Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 4. (12)
13. Rounds 18 to 22: sc around. (12)
14. Round 23: (4 sc, dec) x 2. (10)
15. Round 24: sc around. (10)
16. Stuff lightly.
17. Round 25: flatten and sc across 5 sts.

Sleeve Ruffle Cuffs

Join cream yarn in FLO of Round 12.

1. Round 1: (2 dc in each st) around. (32)
2. Round 2: (sc, hdc, sc) in each 2nd stitch around for a soft frill effect.

Make narrow mauve ribbon bows and stitch them just above the cuff if desired. The image shows decorative ribbon accents and a very dressed sleeve line.

Ears

The ears are small and mostly hidden by the hair and hat brim. Make 2.

1. Round 1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
2. Round 2: inc x 4. (8)
3. Round 3: sc around. (8)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x 2. (6)

Flatten lightly and sew to the sides of the head between Rounds 16 and 19. Much of each ear should disappear beneath the hair.

Wings

The wings are large, pale gray, gently pointed, and mounted behind the shoulders. Make 2 mirror-image pieces by working the same pattern and flipping one before sewing.

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Wing Base

1. Chain 21.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (20)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, 18 sc, inc. (22)
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (22)
5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, inc, 20 sc, inc. (24)
6. Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (24)
7. Row 6: ch 1, turn, inc, 22 sc, inc. (26)
8. Rows 7 to 10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (26)

Wing Shaping

1. Row 11: ch 1, turn, dec, sc to last 2 sts, dec. (24)
2. Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across. (24)
3. Row 13: ch 1, turn, dec, sc to end. (23)
4. Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across. (23)
5. Row 15: ch 1, turn, dec, sc to end. (22)
6. Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc across. (22)
7. Continue reducing one stitch at the outer upper edge every other row until 12 sts remain.
8. Work 3 more rows even.
9. Then taper both edges with dec at beginning and end of each row until 4 sts remain.
10. Final Row: dec twice. Fasten off.

Wing Texture Ridges

Using surface slip stitches, add 5 to 7 gently curved lines from the inner lower base outward toward the top tip. This creates the feathered ribbed look visible in the photo. Lightly block or steam the wings flat. Insert very thin wire in the outer edge if you want the same crisp spread.

Hair Cap

The hair is full, long, and wavy, with a center-front fringe leaning to a side part. The bulk comes from a snug cap and many attached strands. Use dark brown for the cap.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Rounds 11 to 13: sc around. (60)

Fasten off with a long tail and sew the cap over the head so the front edge sits just above the eyes and dips slightly at the sides. Leave the lower back of the head exposed only where the longest strands will cover it.

Hair Strands

Cut many strands 16 to 20 inches long. Attach them across the cap using a lark’s head method or by pulling folded strands through stitches. Concentrate thickness at the side part, back of head, and around the face.

• Main dark strands: about 65 to 80 strands
• Muted plum highlight strands: about 10 to 14 strands
• Front bangs: shorter strands, 5 to 7 inches long, stitched and shaped forward

After attaching, separate the front hair into a side-swept fringe. The image shows thick curved bangs and long waves draping over the shoulders. Braid or twist nothing. Keep the hair loose, soft, and full. Curl ends lightly around a knitting needle with steam if your yarn allows it.

Bodice

The bodice is fitted, long-waisted, and highly decorative. It has vertical pale trim lines, a soft cream collar, a central rose, and lace edging. Work directly onto the torso if preferred, or make as a removable dress shell. For the most accurate look, work it onto the body.

Bodice Base

Using mauve, join at the waistline near upper torso Round 8 of the torso section.

1. Round 1: sc around 30 sts. Join. (30)
2. Round 2: ch 1, sc around. (30)
3. Round 3: ch 1, 7 sc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 8 sc. (32)
4. Round 4: ch 1, sc around. (32)
5. Round 5: ch 1, 8 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 8 sc. (34)
6. Rounds 6 to 8: ch 1, sc around. (34)

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Bodice Front Panels

Use pale pink or cream yarn for surface embroidery.

• Stitch two vertical decorative lines from upper bust to waist
• Add a center line between them
• Work tiny diagonal stitches between lines to mimic structured panel seams

Collar

Join cream yarn around neckline.

1. Round 1: (sc, ch 2, skip 1) around neckline.
2. Round 2: In each ch-2 space work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc).

Sew a small mauve rose at the center front neckline. Add a pale pink bow under it for the same romantic styling as the pictured doll.

Main Skirt Foundation

This skirt has several layers. The inner skirt is long and full. The outer structure supports draped swags, lace, and tulle. Begin at the lower torso base where 60 stitches are available.

1. Round 1: BLO sc around. (60)
2. Round 2: (9 sc, inc) x 6. (66)
3. Round 3: sc around. (66)
4. Round 4: (10 sc, inc) x 6. (72)
5. Round 5: sc around. (72)
6. Round 6: (11 sc, inc) x 6. (78)
7. Round 7: sc around. (78)
8. Round 8: (12 sc, inc) x 6. (84)
9. Rounds 9 to 14: sc around. (84)
10. Round 15: (13 sc, inc) x 6. (90)
11. Rounds 16 to 20: sc around. (90)

The inner skirt should extend almost to the floor. If you want extra fullness, increase again to 96 stitches and work more rounds. The photo shows a very dense gown with clear lower mass, not a flat dress.

Lower Ruffle Hem

Join darker mauve or main mauve to the last round.

1. Round 1: (2 dc in each st) around. (180)
2. Round 2: (dc, ch 1, dc) in every 2nd st around.
3. Round 3: sc in each dc and ch-1 space around.

This creates the gathered lower border visible beneath the tulle and lace layers.

Lace and Tulle Underskirt

The image clearly shows cream lace and soft mauve tulle peeking beneath the main swags. This contrast is important for the final look.

Crochet Lace Layer

Join cream yarn to a free front loop around mid-lower skirt.

1. Round 1: (sc, ch 3, skip 1) around.
2. Round 2: In each ch-3 space work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc).

Tulle Layer

Cut a long strip of soft mauve tulle and gather it evenly by hand. Stitch it behind the lower lace so the mesh softly shows beneath the skirt. This should not overpower the crochet fabric. It only adds the airy layered effect seen in the picture.

Upper Overskirt Swags

The most distinctive gown feature is the series of raised mauve swags looping across the front skirt. These are not random chains. They are shaped crochet cords and scalloped panels layered in tiers.

Swag Panel Base

Make 3 separate front panels in darker mauve.

1. Chain 46.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (45)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (45)
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, (3 sc, dec) repeat across. (36)
5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (36)
6. Row 5: ch 1, turn, (2 sc, dec) repeat across. (27)
7. Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (27)

Fasten off. Curve each panel into a soft drape and stitch it horizontally onto the front skirt, stacking them from upper to lower front. Leave the lower edge free enough to bulge slightly.

Swag Cords

Make 6 to 8 long cords in darker mauve.

1. Chain 55.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each chain back for a firm cord.

Pin each cord in a deep loop across the front skirt. The central front should have the deepest drape, while the side drapes rise upward toward the hips. Sew securely at each anchor point.

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Bottom Swag Border

Make 3 longer decorative loops to sit near the lower ruffle edge.

1. Chain 70.
2. Work sl st in each chain.

Attach in generous arcs. This detail recreates the long rope-like loops seen near the lower gown.

Front and Side Roses

The dress includes roses at the neckline, waist, lower skirt, hat, purse, and basket. Use the same basic rose method and vary strip length.

Small Rose

1. Chain 16.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (15)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, (sc, 2 sc in next st) repeat across.
4. Roll strip from one end and stitch base closed.

Medium Rose

1. Chain 26.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (25)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, (sc, hdc, 2 dc) in first st, sl st in next, repeat across.
4. Roll from narrow end to wide end and stitch firmly.

Leaves

1. Chain 6.
2. Work: sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st back along chain.

Make at least:

• 1 medium rose for neckline center
• 3 medium roses for lower front dress
• 2 small roses for hat brim decoration
• 2 to 4 small roses for purse and basket

Wide Brim Hat

The hat is a major styling feature. It has a rounded crown, very wide brim, mauve band, and floral trim. Use the main mauve yarn.

Hat Crown Top

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rounds 9 to 16: sc around. (48)

Hat Brim

1. Round 17: BLO sc around. (48)
2. Round 18: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
3. Round 19: sc around. (54)
4. Round 20: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
5. Round 21: sc around. (60)
6. Round 22: (9 sc, inc) x 6. (66)
7. Round 23: sc around. (66)
8. Round 24: (10 sc, inc) x 6. (72)
9. Round 25: sc around. (72)
10. Round 26: (11 sc, inc) x 6. (78)
11. Round 27: sc around. (78)

If you want a stronger brim like the image, add a final round of crab stitch and insert thin wire or hidden plastic canvas. Slightly curve one side downward and the opposite front side outward for a natural romantic tilt.

Hat Band and Flowers

• Make a narrow ribbon or crochet band and wrap around crown base
• Add 1 medium rose and 1 small rose
• Add 2 leaves and one short ribbon tail

Purse

The left hand carries a mauve floral handbag. Make the bag body first.

1. Chain 11.
2. Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across 9, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side 8 sc, 2 sc in final ch. (22)
3. Round 2: inc, 8 sc, 3 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc. (28)
4. Rounds 3 to 8: sc around. (28)
5. Round 9: BLO sc around. (28)
6. Rounds 10 to 12: sc around. (28)

Flatten slightly. Add flap if desired:

1. Row 1: join over 12 center front sts, sc 12.
2. Row 2: dec, 8 sc, dec. (10)
3. Row 3: dec, 6 sc, dec. (8)
4. Row 4: dec, 4 sc, dec. (6)

Make strap: chain 32, sl st back. Sew to both sides. Decorate the front with 3 tiny flowers, 1 rose, and 2 leaves.

Watering Can Style Accessory

The image suggests a soft mauve gardening item hanging at center front, resembling a tiny watering can or gathered pouch. This pattern uses a simplified mini watering-can style ornament.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: sc around. (12)
4. Round 4: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
5. Rounds 5 to 8: sc around. (18)
6. Round 9: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)
7. Round 10: sc around. (12)

Add a short spout by chaining 5 and covering back with sl sts. Add a handle with chain 10. Sew or tie the accessory to the front hand area or waist drape to mimic the pictured gardening charm.

Flower Basket

The right hand carries a small tan flower basket filled with roses. Make basket base in tan.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: BLO sc around. (18)
5. Rounds 5 to 9: sc around. (18)

Handle:

1. Chain 18.
2. Sl st back across.
3. Sew both ends to opposite sides of basket rim.

Fill the basket with 3 tiny roses, 2 flowers, and a few leaves. Stitch them down securely before sewing the basket to the hand.

Tiny Flowers

Five-Petal Flower

1. Using cream or pale pink, 5 sc in MR.
2. In each stitch work: sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.

Make several and use them on the purse, basket, and dress. Keep them small so the roses remain the main floral motif.

Glove Texture

The hands appear softly gloved or cuffed by sleeve styling. If you want a closer match, wrap the wrist area with a tiny mauve ribbon bow and add one cream picot edge at the sleeve opening. This gives the hand area a dressed, Victorian look without making the fingers bulky.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

• Sew ears to head first, then attach hair cap and all hair strands.
• Shape bangs before sewing the hat in place.
• Sew head firmly to reinforced neck.
• Attach arms angled slightly forward so both accessories rest naturally.
• Sew wings symmetrically behind the shoulders, slanting outward and upward.
• Attach dress roses, swags, lace, tulle, purse, mini watering accessory, and flower basket last.
• Check eye symmetry, mouth placement, and blush balance before finishing.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from constant direct sunlight.
• Do not hang the doll by the hat, wings, or accessories.
• Lift from the body base when moving it.
• Keep ribbons, lace, and tulle away from rough surfaces.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head: smooth, firmly stuffed, face centered
• Hair: full, long, side-parted, with a few plum highlights
• Hat: wide brim, floral trim, slightly tilted
• Dress: fitted bodice, layered swags, lace, tulle, roses
• Wings: equal size and evenly positioned
• Accessories: purse and basket attached securely
• Balance: doll sits or stands neatly on the skirt base

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

• Dust gently with a soft dry brush.
• For small marks, spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not soak if the doll includes wire, ribbon, glue, or internal support.
• Reshape hat brim, wings, and skirt by hand after cleaning.
• Store in a breathable box with acid-free tissue if not displayed.
• Avoid crushing the floral details during storage.

Helpful Finishing Advice for the Best Match

The most important visual elements are proportion and layering. Keep the head large, torso slim, and skirt dramatically full. The face should stay delicate and simple. The gown should feel rich and dimensional, especially through the front swags, lace peeks, floral clusters, and ribbon accents.

Do not rush the hair. The long waves framing the face are essential to the finished look. Add enough strands so the scalp never shows through. Blend only a few plum highlight pieces, because the photo shows a subtle accent, not bright streaking.

Do not flatten the skirt. Build outward fullness with the inner base, lower ruffle, tulle layer, and attached swag cords. The final silhouette should feel lush and decorative from the front, with the lower edge touching the surface evenly.

Keep the embellishments balanced. The image contains many details, but each one is placed intentionally. Concentrate roses at the neckline, hat, purse, basket, and lower front dress. Leave some areas plain so the design still looks elegant rather than overcrowded.

Once all pieces are attached, steam very lightly from a safe distance if your yarn allows it. Shape the brim, smooth the swags, settle the lace, and arrange the hair over the shoulders. After that final styling, your Vintage Mauve Gardener Doll should closely reflect the photographed design.