Crochet Tutorial: Safari Explorer Brontosaurus – Free Crochet Pattern

This Safari Explorer Brontosaurus is a tall, gentle crochet dinosaur with a long green neck, rounded muzzle, black bead eyes, golden back bumps, a curved tail, and a full adventure outfit. The design includes tan explorer shorts, a matching utility vest with pockets and embroidered patches, brown lace-up boots, a small safari hat, a backpack shell, and tiny binoculars resting on a little map.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and is designed to recreate the plush safari brontosaurus shown in the image. The finished dinosaur has a seated posture, a tall upright neck, a large rounded head, small front arms, rounded legs, boots, explorer clothing, a hat, backpack, tail, back ridge bumps, and small travel accessories.

The body is built as a soft amigurumi figure. The neck is worked firmly so it can stand upright, while the head is slightly larger and rounded forward to create the friendly brontosaurus profile. The clothes are crocheted separately and sewn on so the details remain visible.

Finished Size

• Finished height: about 13 inches from boots to top of hat.
• Seated height without hat: about 12 inches.
• Head length: about 4 inches from back of skull to rounded snout.
• Neck height: about 5 inches from body to head base.
• Body width: about 4 inches across the seated torso.
• Tail length: about 5 inches, tapering behind the body.
• Binoculars: about 2 inches wide.

Skill Level

Intermediate amigurumi. A confident beginner can complete this project by following the stitch counts carefully. The main toy uses basic single crochet shaping, while the explorer vest, shorts, hat, backpack, patches, boots, and accessories add several small detail pieces.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn in bright leaf green for the dinosaur body.
• Worsted weight yarn in tan beige for shorts, vest, hat, map edge, and pocket details.
• Worsted weight yarn in medium brown for boots, belt, and binocular straps.
• Small amount of white yarn for boot soles and binocular shine.
• Small amount of dark green yarn for vest trim, leafy patches, and hat band.
• Small amount of golden ocher yarn for back bumps and tail ridge bumps.
• Small amount of black yarn for embroidery and binocular edges.
• Small amount of gray yarn for binocular body.
• Small scraps of red, blue, purple, and green embroidery yarn for explorer patches and map marks.
• 3.25 mm crochet hook for the dinosaur and clothing.
• 2.75 mm crochet hook for patches, binoculars, tiny flowers, and small details.
• 10 mm black safety eyes or black beads.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Sewing pins.
• Scissors.
• Optional: pipe cleaner or craft wire for the neck and tail support.
• Optional: small piece of felt or plastic canvas for the base of the backpack.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: increase, 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible decrease over 2 stitches
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• FO: fasten off
• R: round or row

Gauge and Stitch Texture

Use a tight amigurumi gauge so the stuffing does not show. With a 3.25 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, 6 sc should measure about 1 inch across. The sample in the image has firm, visible crochet stitches with a rounded texture, so do not crochet too loosely.

The dinosaur should feel sturdy but still soft. The neck needs the firmest stuffing because it supports the large head. The clothing can be crocheted slightly softer, but the shorts, vest, and hat should still hold their shape.

Important Construction Notes

• Work the dinosaur body parts in continuous rounds unless a section says otherwise.
• Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round.
• Stuff gradually as you work, especially in the head, neck, legs, and tail.
• The head is sewn to the neck at a slight forward angle, with the muzzle pointing gently outward.
• The arms hang down from the vest opening and angle slightly forward.
• The legs are seated forward and spread slightly apart, matching the relaxed pose in the image.
• The tail points backward and slightly to the right side when viewed from the front.
• The hat sits tilted slightly back on the head, with the brim visible around the face.

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Dinosaur Head

Use bright leaf green yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. The head is worked from the rounded snout toward the back of the skull. Stuff firmly, but keep the snout smooth and rounded.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9-R14: sc around. 48 sts for 6 rounds.
10. R15: sc 18, inc in next 6 sts, sc 24. 54 sts.
11. R16-R19: sc around. 54 sts for 4 rounds.
12. R20: sc 7, dec; repeat around. 48 sts.
13. R21: sc around. 48 sts.
14. R22: sc 6, dec; repeat around. 42 sts.
15. R23: sc around. 42 sts.
16. R24: sc 5, dec; repeat around. 36 sts.
17. R25: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts.
18. R26: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 24 sts.
19. R27: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts.

Insert the safety eyes between R15 and R16, about 15 stitches apart across the front upper sides of the head. The eyes should sit slightly above the widest part of the snout. The dinosaur in the image has simple glossy black eyes without eyelashes or eyebrows.

1. R28: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 12 sts.
2. R29: dec around. 6 sts.

FO, leaving a long tail. Close the final hole neatly. Shape the head with your hands so the snout is broad, round, and slightly longer than the back of the skull.

Optional Muzzle Shaping

The image shows a smooth rounded muzzle rather than a separate sewn snout. To create that look, use a long strand of green yarn and make two gentle shaping stitches from the lower back of the head to the lower front of the snout.

• Insert the needle at the bottom back of the head.
• Bring it out under the left lower snout at R10.
• Insert one stitch inward and return to the bottom back.
• Repeat on the right lower snout.
• Pull only lightly so the face stays soft and friendly.

Long Neck

Use green yarn. The neck is tall and cylindrical, slightly narrower than the head. It should stand upright with a small forward lean. Stuff it very firmly as you go.

1. R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 16 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 32 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc around. 32 sts.
6. R6-R35: sc around. 32 sts for 30 rounds.
7. R36: sc 6, dec; repeat around. 28 sts.
8. R37-R39: sc around. 28 sts for 3 rounds.

FO with a very long sewing tail. If using a pipe cleaner or soft craft wire, wrap the ends with tape, fold the tips inward, and place it inside the neck before final stuffing. Do not leave sharp ends exposed.

Body

The body is green underneath the safari outfit. It is pear-shaped, with a seated base and rounded belly. The shorts will cover much of the lower body, but the green sides and upper chest should remain visible.

1. R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 16 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 32 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 40 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 48 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat around. 56 sts.
8. R8-R15: sc around. 56 sts for 8 rounds.
9. R16: sc 12, dec, sc 26, dec, sc 14. 54 sts.
10. R17: sc around. 54 sts.
11. R18: sc 7, dec; repeat around. 48 sts.
12. R19-R21: sc around. 48 sts for 3 rounds.
13. R22: sc 6, dec; repeat around. 42 sts.
14. R23-R24: sc around. 42 sts for 2 rounds.
15. R25: sc 5, dec; repeat around. 36 sts.
16. R26-R27: sc around. 36 sts for 2 rounds.
17. R28: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts.
18. R29: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 24 sts.

Stuff the body firmly at the lower base and softly near the top where the neck will be sewn. FO, leaving a long tail for closing if needed. The neck will cover the top opening, so do not flatten the body.

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Tail

The tail is green, long, tapered, and points behind the dinosaur. It is thick near the body and narrows toward the tip. Add the golden ridge bumps later along the top line.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 6 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 9 sts.
4. R4-R5: sc around. 9 sts for 2 rounds.
5. R6: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R7-R8: sc around. 12 sts for 2 rounds.
7. R9: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 15 sts.
8. R10-R12: sc around. 15 sts for 3 rounds.
9. R13: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
10. R14-R17: sc around. 18 sts for 4 rounds.
11. R18: sc 5, inc; repeat around. 21 sts.
12. R19-R22: sc around. 21 sts for 4 rounds.
13. R23: sc 6, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
14. R24-R27: sc around. 24 sts for 4 rounds.

Stuff the tail lightly at the tip and more firmly near the base. Flatten the last round slightly, but keep the tail rounded. FO with a long sewing tail.

Legs

Make two green legs. These are short, rounded, and angled forward from under the shorts. The boots will be worked separately and sewn over the foot ends.

1. R1: 7 sc in MR. 7 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 14 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 21 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 28 sts.
5. R5-R8: sc around. 28 sts for 4 rounds.
6. R9: sc 6, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 6. 26 sts.
7. R10-R15: sc around. 26 sts for 6 rounds.
8. R16: sc 11, dec, sc 11, dec. 24 sts.
9. R17-R18: sc around. 24 sts for 2 rounds.

Stuff firmly. Flatten the top opening so the foot points forward. FO with a long tail. Sew each leg to the lower front of the body between R6 and R12 of the body, leaving about 5 stitches of space between the inner legs.

Arms

Make two green arms. The arms are slim, rounded, and hang down from the vest sides. They are shorter than the legs and taper slightly toward the top.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R7: sc around. 18 sts for 4 rounds.
5. R8: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 15 sts.
6. R9-R17: sc around. 15 sts for 9 rounds.
7. R18: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 12 sts.
8. R19: sc around. 12 sts.

Stuff the lower half firmly and the upper half lightly. Flatten the top. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the body after the vest is positioned, so the arms appear to come from the armholes.

Golden Back Bumps

The brontosaurus has a row of rounded golden bumps running from behind the hat down the back of the neck, along the body, and onto the tail. Make 11 bumps total: 6 for the neck, 3 for the body, and 2 for the tail.

Large Neck Bump: Make 6

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R4: sc around. 12 sts for 2 rounds.
4. R5: dec around. 6 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO with a sewing tail.

Medium Body Bump: Make 3

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R4: sc around. 9 sts for 2 rounds.
4. R5: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 6 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO with a sewing tail.

Small Tail Bump: Make 2

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 10 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 10 sts.
4. R4: dec around. 5 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO with a sewing tail.

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Safari Shorts

The shorts are tan beige and sit high on the body. They have two leg openings, a waistband, a brown belt, round explorer patches, and a slightly loose adventure style. Crochet them as a removable-looking garment, but sew them in place for stability.

Shorts Main Waist

Use tan yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. Work in joined rounds for a cleaner clothing edge.

1. R1: ch 58, join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist. 58 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, sc in each ch around, join. 58 sts.
3. R3-R5: ch 1, sc around, join. 58 sts for 3 rounds.
4. R6: ch 1, sc 13, dec, sc 28, dec, sc 13, join. 56 sts.
5. R7-R9: ch 1, sc around, join. 56 sts for 3 rounds.

Divide for Leg Openings

Lay the shorts flat. Mark 26 stitches for the left leg, 26 stitches for the right leg, and leave 4 center crotch stitches split between front and back.

First Shorts Leg

1. R1: ch 1, sc in 26 marked sts, ch 2 across center gap, join. 28 sts.
2. R2-R5: ch 1, sc around, join. 28 sts for 4 rounds.
3. R6: ch 1, sc around in BLO, join. 28 sts.
4. R7: ch 1, sc around, join. 28 sts.

FO and weave in the end.

Second Shorts Leg

1. Join tan yarn to the second leg opening.
2. R1: ch 1, sc in 26 marked sts, pick up 2 sc across center ch, join. 28 sts.
3. R2-R5: ch 1, sc around, join. 28 sts for 4 rounds.
4. R6: ch 1, sc around in BLO, join. 28 sts.
5. R7: ch 1, sc around, join. 28 sts.

FO and weave in the end. Slide the shorts onto the body before sewing the tail permanently if needed. The waistband should sit just below the vest.

Brown Belt

Use brown yarn and the 2.75 mm hook. The belt wraps around the shorts at the top and includes a small green buckle at the front.

1. Row 1: ch 62.
2. Row 2: starting in second ch from hook, sc 61. FO.

Wrap the belt around the shorts at the waist. Sew it in place with small hidden stitches. Leave the front center visible for the buckle.

Green Belt Buckle

1. With green yarn, ch 10.
2. Join with sl st to make a tiny ring.
3. Sc 14 evenly around the ring.
4. Join and FO.

Sew the buckle over the front center of the brown belt. Let the brown belt show through the middle opening.

Explorer Vest

The vest is tan beige and sits open at the front. It has a boxy safari shape, shoulder straps, front panels, a round compass patch, small pocket flaps, and green embroidery. The vest should cover the chest but leave the green neck rising clearly from the center.

Vest Back Panel

Use tan yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. Work in rows.

1. Row 1: ch 25, sc in second ch from hook and across. 24 sts.
2. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts.
3. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc, sc 18, inc, sc 2. 26 sts.
4. Row 4-12: ch 1, turn, sc across. 26 sts for 9 rows.
5. Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc 6, ch 6, skip 6, sc 2, ch 6, skip 6, sc 6. 26 positions.
6. Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc 6, sc 6 into ch space, sc 2, sc 6 into ch space, sc 6. 26 sts.
7. Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc across. 26 sts.

FO and weave in the end. The two chain spaces create the armhole openings.

Left Front Vest Panel

1. Row 1: ch 12, sc in second ch from hook and across. 11 sts.
2. Row 2-10: ch 1, turn, sc across. 11 sts for 9 rows.
3. Row 11: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 9. 10 sts.
4. Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across. 10 sts.
5. Row 13: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8. 9 sts.
6. Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across. 9 sts.
7. Row 15: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 7. 8 sts.

FO with a sewing tail.

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Right Front Vest Panel

1. Row 1: ch 12, sc in second ch from hook and across. 11 sts.
2. Row 2-10: ch 1, turn, sc across. 11 sts for 9 rows.
3. Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc 9, dec. 10 sts.
4. Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across. 10 sts.
5. Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc 8, dec. 9 sts.
6. Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across. 9 sts.
7. Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc 7, dec. 8 sts.

FO with a sewing tail.

Vest Assembly

• Pin the back panel to the dinosaur’s upper body.
• Place the front panels on the chest, leaving a green opening at the center.
• Sew the shoulders together over 5 stitches on each side.
• Sew the side seams under the armholes for 5 rows only.
• Leave the lower front corners loose enough to look like a real utility vest.

Vest Edging

Join tan yarn at the lower back edge. Sc evenly around the entire vest edge, placing 2 sc in each lower corner and 2 sc along each front neckline corner. Join with sl st and FO.

Vest Pockets

Make two small tan pockets for the front vest. One pocket sits low on the viewer’s left panel, and one sits slightly higher on the viewer’s right panel.

1. Row 1: ch 7, sc in second ch from hook and across. 6 sts.
2. Row 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across. 6 sts.
3. Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across, FO.

Make 2. Sew each pocket to the vest with the top edge slightly open. Add one line of dark green embroidery on one pocket to match the small green leaf detail in the image.

Pocket Flaps

1. With tan yarn, ch 7.
2. Sc in second ch from hook and across. 6 sts.
3. FO and sew above one pocket.

Make 2 pocket flaps. Sew each flap directly above the pocket opening.

Round Explorer Patches

The outfit has several circular patches on the vest and shorts. Use the 2.75 mm hook for crisp circles. Make each patch with a light cream center and a dark outline, then embroider tiny travel symbols.

Basic Round Patch: Make 5

1. R1: with cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Change to dark green or black yarn.
5. R4: sl st loosely around all 18 sts.

FO with a sewing tail. Sew one patch to the right vest front, one to the left shorts leg, two to the right shorts leg, and one small patch to the left side of the vest or shorts.

Patch Embroidery Ideas

• For a compass patch, stitch one red vertical line and one green horizontal line crossing in the center.
• For a leaf patch, stitch a curved green stem and two tiny slanted leaves.
• For a map patch, stitch a blue diagonal line and a red dot.
• For a footprint patch, stitch three tiny green V shapes.
• For a trail patch, stitch one brown curved line with a small green arrow.

Safari Hat

The safari hat is tan beige with a rounded crown, a firm brim, a green band, and a tiny orange flower accent. It sits on top of the head and tilts slightly backward.

Hat Crown

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: BLO sc around. 36 sts.
8. R8-R12: sc around. 36 sts for 5 rounds.
9. R13: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts.

Do not stuff the hat. FO and weave in the end.

Hat Brim

Join tan yarn in any front loop left from R7 of the crown.

1. R1: FLO sc around the front loops of R7. 36 sts.
2. R2: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 48 sts.
3. R3: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 60 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 60 sts.
5. R5: sl st around loosely for a neat edge. 60 sts.

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FO and weave in the end. Shape the brim with your fingers so the front and back curve gently downward.

Hat Band

1. With dark green yarn, ch 39.
2. Sc in second ch from hook and across. 38 sts.
3. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Wrap the band around the lower crown of the hat, just above the brim. Sew securely at the back.

Tiny Orange Flower on Hat

1. With orange yarn and 2.75 mm hook, make MR.
2. Work ch 2, sl st into ring; repeat 5 times.
3. Pull ring closed.
4. FO with a sewing tail.

Sew the flower to the side of the hat band. Place it slightly to the viewer’s right, matching the small orange detail in the image.

Backpack Shell

The dinosaur wears a green backpack-like roll on its back. It appears rounded and textured, sitting behind the vest and beside the golden back bumps. Use a darker green yarn so it stands apart from the body.

Backpack Main Roll

1. R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 16 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 32 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc around. 32 sts.
6. R6-R14: sc around. 32 sts for 9 rounds.
7. R15: BLO sc 2, dec; repeat around. 24 sts.
8. R16: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 16 sts.
9. R17: dec around. 8 sts.

Stuff firmly into a rounded oval roll. FO and close the opening. The backpack should look like a compact explorer pack rather than a flat bag.

Backpack Flap

1. Row 1: ch 17, sc in second ch from hook and across. 16 sts.
2. Row 2-7: ch 1, turn, sc across. 16 sts for 6 rows.
3. Row 8: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 12, dec. 14 sts.
4. Row 9: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts.

FO. Sew the flap over the outer side of the backpack roll. Add a dark green sl st line around the flap edge if desired.

Backpack Straps

1. With tan yarn, ch 28.
2. Sc in second ch from hook and across. 27 sts.
3. FO.

Make 2 straps. Sew them from the top of the backpack to the lower body side. Let them peek out under the vest edges.

Brown Boots

The boots are chunky brown explorer boots with white soles and pale laces. They cover the front of each green leg and point outward slightly.

Boot Foot: Make 2

Start with white yarn for the sole.

1. R1: ch 9, sc in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of chain: sc 6, inc in last st. 18 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. 24 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc three times, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc two times. 30 sts.
4. Change to brown yarn.
5. R4: BLO sc around. 30 sts.
6. R5-R6: sc around. 30 sts for 2 rounds.
7. R7: sc 9, dec 6 times, sc 9. 24 sts.
8. R8: sc 8, dec 4 times, sc 8. 20 sts.
9. R9-R12: sc around. 20 sts for 4 rounds.

Stuff the boot toe lightly. Slide the boot over the leg end and sew around the top edge. The white sole should remain visible as a stripe near the bottom.

White Boot Rim

Join white yarn to the front lower boot edge. Sl st around the front half of R4 only, creating a white stripe across the toe and side. FO and hide the ends.

Boot Laces

Use pale cream yarn. On each boot, embroider three diagonal lace bars across the top front.

• First lace: stitch from upper left to lower right across R10.
• Second lace: stitch from upper right to lower left across R10.
• Third lace: repeat the crossed shape across R11.
• Keep the laces loose enough to sit visibly on the brown boot surface.

Small Green Flower on One Boot

The image shows a small green flower accent near one boot. Make one tiny flower and sew it to the outer side of the viewer’s right boot.

1. With green yarn, make MR.
2. Work ch 2, sl st into ring; repeat 5 times.
3. Pull the ring closed and FO.

Explorer Map

The map is a small flat rectangle placed near the binoculars. It is pale with soft blue, green, and yellow embroidered marks. Use cream yarn for the base.

1. Row 1: ch 19, sc in second ch from hook and across. 18 sts.
2. Row 2-12: ch 1, turn, sc across. 18 sts for 11 rows.
3. Edging: sc evenly around all four sides, placing 2 sc in each corner.
4. FO and block flat with your hands.

Use blue yarn to stitch one curved river line. Use green yarn for small trail dots. Use yellow yarn for two short map marks. Keep the embroidery loose and playful, like a simple safari route map.

Binoculars

The binoculars sit on top of the map. They are made from two small gray tubes with black rims and blue lens centers. A short black bridge connects the tubes.

Binocular Tube: Make 2

Use gray yarn and the 2.75 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
4. R4-R7: sc around. 12 sts for 4 rounds.
5. Change to black yarn.
6. R8: sc around. 12 sts.
7. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Stuff very lightly so each tube holds shape. Sew the two tubes side by side.

Lens Circles: Make 2

1. With blue yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. FO with a sewing tail.

Sew one blue lens circle to the black end of each tube. Add a tiny white straight stitch on each lens for shine.

Binocular Center Bridge

1. With black yarn, ch 5.
2. Sc in second ch from hook and across. 4 sts.
3. FO.

Sew the bridge across the top center between the two tubes. Add a black yarn loop as a strap if desired, about 14 chains long.

Small Clothing Patches for Shorts

The shorts have little explorer-style decorations. These details help match the image and make the outfit look handmade and full of travel character.

Green Leaf Patch

1. With green yarn, ch 5.
2. Sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, 3 hdc in last ch.
3. Work on the other side: hdc, sc, sl st.
4. FO with a sewing tail.

Sew this patch to the left shorts leg. Add one dark green straight stitch down the center as a leaf vein.

Tiny Trail Arrow

Using dark green embroidery yarn, stitch a curved arrow on the opposite shorts leg. Make three small straight stitches for the curve and two short stitches at the tip for the arrow point.

Assembly Order

Follow this order so the outfit layers correctly. Pin everything before sewing permanently. The toy in the image has many visible accessories, so careful placement is important.

1. Sew the neck to the top center of the body.
2. Sew the head to the top of the neck, angled slightly forward.
3. Sew the tail to the back lower body, pointing backward and slightly downward.
4. Sew both legs to the lower front body in a seated position.
5. Slide or position the shorts over the legs and body, then sew the waistband and leg openings discreetly.
6. Sew the belt and buckle to the shorts.
7. Place the vest over the upper body and sew shoulder and side seams.
8. Sew the arms to the sides so they hang from the vest armholes.
9. Sew the backpack to the back, slightly to one side of the golden spine bumps.
10. Sew the golden bumps down the back of the neck, body, and tail.
11. Sew on all vest and shorts patches.
12. Sew the boots onto the feet and add laces.
13. Sew the hat to the top of the head.
14. Place the map and binoculars separately as accessories or sew them lightly together as a display prop.

Attaching the Neck and Head

The neck should rise from the center of the body and lean very slightly forward. Use pins to hold it before sewing. Sew around the full base twice, catching both the neck stitches and body stitches firmly.

Place the head on top of the neck so the rounded snout faces forward and slightly upward. The lower back of the head should touch the top back of the neck. Sew around the contact area with strong green yarn. Add extra hidden stitches under the chin area for support.

Attaching the Tail

Position the tail at the back of the body between R8 and R15. The wide base should sit under the backpack and behind the shorts. Angle the tail so it rests along the table when the dinosaur sits.

Sew around the tail base twice. Add several anchor stitches through the lower body and into the tail base. This keeps the seated toy balanced and helps the tail act as a gentle support.

Attaching the Golden Back Bumps

Start behind the hat at the top back of the head or upper neck. Sew the first golden bump just below the back crown of the head. Continue down the neck with the remaining large bumps, spacing each bump about 2 rounds apart.

Sew the medium bumps down the upper back between the vest and backpack edge. Sew the small bumps along the top of the tail. Keep the row centered so it reads clearly as a brontosaurus ridge.

Facial Features

The face is simple and gentle. The eyes are glossy black and placed wide apart. No mouth is required, because the rounded snout and soft expression create the same friendly look seen in the image.

• Use 10 mm black safety eyes between R15 and R16 of the head.
• Place eyes about 15 stitches apart.
• Do not add eyebrows unless you want a more cartoon expression.
• Optional: add one tiny green yarn stitch at each lower cheek for subtle shaping.
• Keep the snout plain and rounded.

Detailed Clothing Placement

The shorts should sit under the vest and cover the upper legs. The leg openings should rest over the green thighs, letting the green lower legs show before the brown boots begin. The waistband should be straight, with the brown belt placed on top.

The vest should sit open at the front. Do not pull the front panels closed. Leave a visible green strip of the chest and neck base in the center. The utility pockets and patches should be visible from the front.

The backpack is placed behind the vest and should not cover the golden bumps completely. It may overlap slightly to one side, giving the toy the look of a packed safari explorer ready for a gentle adventure.

Making the Toy Sit Properly

To help the brontosaurus sit like the image, stuff the body base firmly and angle the legs forward before sewing. The tail should touch the surface behind the dinosaur and provide a third support point.

If the head feels too heavy, add more stuffing to the neck and sew the head with a wider contact area. You can also add a wrapped pipe cleaner inside the neck, but always make sure any wire is fully covered and safe.

Beginner Tips for Clean Results

• Use the same yarn weight for all major body pieces so the proportions stay even.
• Use a smaller hook for patches and accessories so they look crisp.
• Stuff the head slowly to avoid lumps in the snout.
• Pin every clothing piece before sewing.
• Use matching yarn tails for invisible seams.
• Do not overstuff the arms, or they will stick out too far.
• Shape the hat brim while sewing it to the head.
• Keep the vest pockets flat so they do not overpower the small vest front.

Optional Surface Texture

The image has clear crochet texture throughout the toy. If you want the stitches to look more defined, keep your tension firm and consistent. Avoid brushing the yarn. Smooth worsted cotton or acrylic gives the best visible stitch definition.

For a softer plush look, use a slightly fuzzy acrylic yarn, but keep the hook small enough that the stuffing remains hidden. The clothing details will be easier to see if the tan yarn has a smooth finish.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the full silhouette before tying off final ends. The brontosaurus should have a large rounded head, a tall straight neck, a compact seated body, forward legs with boots, a long tail, and visible golden bumps along the back.

• Secure the eyes tightly and check that they are level.
• Sew the hat slightly tilted backward, not too far forward over the eyes.
• Make sure the vest front remains open and the patches face outward.
• Place the binoculars on the map beside the finished dinosaur for display.
• Trim and hide all yarn tails inside the body or clothing layers.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished Safari Explorer Brontosaurus with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking the toy, especially if you used safety eyes, wire support, embroidered patches, or a shaped hat brim.

• Do not machine wash if the toy includes wire or plastic canvas.
• Let the toy air dry completely before storing.
• Reshape the hat brim, neck, boots, and tail while damp if needed.
• Keep small accessories away from children under 3 years old.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is rounded, large, and facing forward.
• The long neck is firmly stuffed and upright.
• The black eyes are even and glossy.
• The golden bumps are centered down the back.
• The safari hat has a green band and orange flower.
• The tan vest has pockets and round explorer patches.
• The tan shorts have a brown belt and green buckle.
• The brown boots have white soles and pale laces.
• The backpack sits behind the vest.
• The map and binoculars are finished as separate display accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the dinosaur upright or seated so the neck does not bend for long periods. Keep it away from direct sunlight to protect the green, tan, and brown yarn colors. If dust gathers on the toy, use a soft dry brush before spot cleaning.

For long-term storage, wrap the hat brim and binoculars gently in tissue paper. Do not compress the head or neck under heavy items. Refresh the shape by gently rolling the stuffed areas between your hands.

If a patch edge lifts over time, sew it back down with matching thread or fine yarn. If the boots flatten, add a small amount of extra stuffing through the top edge before closing the seam again.

Final Pattern Notes

Your finished Safari Explorer Brontosaurus should look like a cheerful handmade adventure companion, with a tall green dinosaur shape and detailed explorer outfit. The mix of tan safari clothing, brown boots, golden back bumps, tiny hat, backpack, map, and binoculars gives the toy the same playful expedition style shown in the reference image.

Take your time with the small accessories, because they create the full safari personality. The pattern is built from simple shapes, but the careful placement of each patch, strap, bump, and clothing edge makes the final piece feel detailed, balanced, and complete.