Buttercup Carousel Bunny – Crochet

Buttercup Carousel Bunny – Crochet

Welcome to the whimsical world of the Buttercup Carousel Bunny. This project captures the nostalgia of vintage fairgrounds and the sweetness of spring meadows. Designed for the intermediate to advanced crafter, this bunny features intricate garment details and a charming set of accessories that tell a story. If you are looking to buy the finest mercerized cotton yarn or upgrade your toolkit with ergonomic hooks, this project is a wonderful reason to visit your favorite fiber arts shop.

Creating an heirloom-quality doll like this requires patience and attention to detail. When you purchase your supplies, consider investing in high-quality safety eyes and dense polyester fiberfill to ensure your creation stands the test of time. Whether you are crafting this for a collector’s display or as a special gift, the time spent stitching the tiny buttercups and constructing the carousel horse will result in a truly unique piece of art.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Chapter 1: Preparing Your Workspace and Materials

To recreate the Buttercup Carousel Bunny exactly as shown in the image, material selection is crucial. The defining features of this doll are the matte finish of the skin and the vibrant, clean colors of the dress.

Yarn Selection Guide

We recommend using a Sport Weight (Category 2) or a light DK Weight (Category 3) cotton yarn. Cotton provides the structural integrity needed for the carousel horse and the crisp definition required for the lace collar. Acrylic yarn may be too fuzzy and obscure the embroidery details.

  • Cream/Sand (approx. 100g): Used for the bunny’s head, ears, body, and limbs. Look for a “natural” unbleached tone.
  • Buttercup Yellow (approx. 50g): Used for the dress hem, collar, and flower details.
  • Antique White (approx. 40g): Used for the bodice of the dress and the duck.
  • Deep Red (approx. 20g): Used for the Mary Jane shoes.
  • Beige/Tan (approx. 30g): Used for the backpack and the carousel base.
  • Sage Green (approx. 10g): Used for the flower stems and leaves.
  • Cocoa Brown (approx. 15g): Used for the horse’s mane and tail.

Essential Tools and Notions

Having the right tools will make the construction process smoother and more enjoyable.

  • Crochet Hooks: A 2.25mm (US B/1) hook is ideal for the amigurumi parts to ensure tight stitches. You may want a 2.75mm (US C/2) hook for the dress if you have tight tension.
  • Safety Eyes: One pair of 10mm or 12mm black eyes for the bunny, and smaller 6mm eyes for the duck and horse.
  • Structural Support: A small wooden dowel or a chopstick is required for the carousel horse pole. A pipe cleaner can be used inside the bunny’s neck for stability.
  • Embroidery Needle: A sharp needle is necessary for stitching the floral details on the dress.
  • Stitch Markers: Essential for tracking continuous rounds.

Chapter 2: Technical Stitch Glossary

Before we begin, let’s clarify the terms used. This pattern uses standard US terminology.

  • MR (Magic Ring): Creates a tight closure for the start of rounds.
  • sc (Single Crochet): The primary stitch for the doll.
  • inc (Increase): Work 2 sc into one stitch.
  • dec (Invisible Decrease): Insert hook in Front Loop Only (FLO) of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops.
  • hdc (Half Double Crochet): Used for height transitions.
  • dc (Double Crochet): Used in the dress skirt.
  • BLO (Back Loops Only): Work only in the loop furthest from you.
  • FLO (Front Loops Only): Work only in the loop closest to you.
  • sl st (Slip Stitch): Used to join.

Chapter 3: Sculpting the Bunny Head

The head is the focal point of the doll. We are aiming for a slightly oversized, round shape that gives a “kawaii” or cute appearance. We work in continuous spirals.

Round 1: Begin with the Cream yarn. Create a Magic Ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail tight to close. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work an inc in every stitch around. This doubles the stitch count to form a flat circle. (12 sts)

Round 3: Work *1 sc, inc* repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Work *2 sc, inc* repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Work *3 sc, inc* repeat around. Keep your tension consistent to avoid a hexagon shape. (30 sts)

Round 6: Work *4 sc, inc* repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 7: Work *5 sc, inc* repeat around. (42 sts)

Round 8: Work *6 sc, inc* repeat around. (48 sts)

Round 9: Work *7 sc, inc* repeat around. (54 sts)

Round 10: Work *8 sc, inc* repeat around. This is the maximum width. (60 sts)

Rounds 11–22: Work 1 sc in each stitch around for 12 rounds. This builds the forehead and eye area. The fabric should be firm.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Eye Placement Strategy

Pause here. Do not decrease yet. Insert the 10mm safety eyes between Round 18 and Round 19. Space them approximately 11 to 12 stitches apart. Before securing the backs, check that they are centered relative to the start of the round.

Round 23: Begin shaping the cheeks. Work *8 sc, dec* around. (54 sts)

Round 24: Work *7 sc, dec* around. (48 sts)

Round 25: Work *6 sc, dec* around. (42 sts)

Round 26: Work *5 sc, dec* around. (36 sts)

Round 27: Work *4 sc, dec* around. (30 sts)

Stuffing Technique

Start stuffing the head firmly. Focus on pushing fiberfill into the sides to round out the cheeks. The center should be firm but squishy.

Round 28: Work *3 sc, dec* around. (24 sts)

Round 29: Work *2 sc, dec* around. (18 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail (approx. 18 inches) for sewing the head to the body later. Add more stuffing to the neck opening.


Chapter 4: The Long Lop Ears

The ears are a signature feature, designed to drape down the sides of the head. We make two identical ears using Cream yarn. Do not stuff the ears.

Round 1: Magic Ring, 6 sc. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st. (12 sts)

Round 3: *1 sc, inc* around. (18 sts)

Round 4: *2 sc, inc* around. (24 sts)

Rounds 5–9: Sc around. (24 sts)

Round 10: *10 sc, dec* twice. (22 sts)

Rounds 11–13: Sc around. (22 sts)

Round 14: *9 sc, dec* twice. (20 sts)

Rounds 15–17: Sc around. (20 sts)

Round 18: *8 sc, dec* twice. (18 sts)

Rounds 19–28: Sc around. This length allows the ear to flop nicely. (18 sts)

Round 29: *7 sc, dec* twice. (16 sts)

Round 30: *6 sc, dec* twice. (14 sts)

Flatten the opening and sc through both layers to close. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.


Chapter 5: Body and Leg Construction

We build the bunny from the feet up. This seamless construction provides excellent stability for a standing doll.

Legs (Make 2)

Round 1: With Cream, MR, 6 sc.

Round 2: Inc around. (12 sts)

Round 3: *1 sc, inc* around. (18 sts)

Round 4: *2 sc, inc* around. (24 sts)

Rounds 5–7: Sc around. (24 sts)

Round 8 (Foot Shaping): 6 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc. (18 sts)

Round 9: 6 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc. (15 sts)

Rounds 10–20: Sc around. Stuff the foot firmly and the leg moderately. (15 sts)

Fasten off the first leg. Do not fasten off the second leg. We will join them.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Body Union

Round 21: From the second leg, chain 3. Join to the first leg with a sc. Sc around the remaining 14 stitches of the first leg. Sc in each of the 3 chains. Sc around the 15 stitches of the second leg. Sc in the other side of the 3 chains. (36 sts)

Round 22: Work *5 sc, inc* around. (42 sts)

Round 23: Work *6 sc, inc* around. (48 sts)

Rounds 24–30: Sc around. This forms the hips and lower torso. (48 sts)

Round 31: Work *6 sc, dec* around. (42 sts)

Rounds 32–34: Sc around.

Round 35: Work *5 sc, dec* around. (36 sts)

Rounds 36–38: Sc around.

Round 39: Work *4 sc, dec* around. (30 sts)

Rounds 40–41: Sc around.

Round 42: Work *3 sc, dec* around. (24 sts)

Round 43: Work *2 sc, dec* around. (18 sts)

Fasten off. Stuff the body firmly, paying extra attention to the neck area.


Chapter 6: The Buttercup Dress

This exquisite dress is the highlight of the project. It features a bodice worked in rows and a skirt worked in rounds with intricate colorwork embroidery.

The Bodice (White)

Row 1: With Antique White, chain 31. Sc in 2nd ch and across. (30 sts)

Row 2: *4 sc, inc* across. (36 sts)

Row 3: Sc across.

Row 4 (Armholes): 5 sc, ch 6 (skip 6 sts), 14 sc, ch 6 (skip 6 sts), 5 sc.

Row 5: Sc across all stitches and chains. (36 sts)

Rows 6–10: Sc across. At the end of Row 10, sl st to the first stitch to join into a round.

The Skirt (Cream & Yellow)

Switch to Cream yarn (or a very light yellow if preferred for the base).

Round 11: Ch 2, *2 dc, dc inc* around. Join. (48 sts)

Round 12: Ch 2, *3 dc, dc inc* around. Join. (60 sts)

Rounds 13–20: Dc around. (60 sts)

Round 21: Switch to Yellow. *Sc, ch 2, sk 1* around for a mesh texture.

Round 22: Sc in each ch space.

Round 23 (Hem): *Ch 3, sl st in next* around for a picot edge. Fasten off.

The Embroidery

Using Yellow and Green yarn, embroider buttercup flowers on the bottom third of the skirt.

Flower: Make 5 french knots in a circle using Yellow.

Leaves: Stitch a “V” shape below the flower using Green. Space them evenly around the skirt.

The Lace Collar

Join Yellow yarn to the neck of the dress.

Row 1: *Ch 3, dc in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st* repeat around. This creates the scalloped petal effect seen in the photo.

📌Thank you for reading the article


Chapter 7: Accessories Construction

These accessories create the “carousel” story.

The Red Mary Jane Shoes

Make 2 using Deep Red yarn.

Round 1: Ch 6. Start in 2nd ch. 4 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Turn. 3 sc, inc. (12 sts)

Round 2: Inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc. (18 sts)

Round 3: *1 sc, inc* x2, 2 sc, *1 sc, inc* x3, 2 sc, inc. (24 sts)

Round 4: BLO sc around. (24 sts)

Rounds 5–6: Sc around.

Round 7: 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc. (20 sts)

Strap: Chain 6. Skip the front instep stitches, sl st to the other side. Fasten off.

The Sun Visor

Round 1: With Beige, ch 40. Join to form a circle. Sc around. (40 sts)

Rounds 2–4: Sc around. (Band).

Brim: Work in FLO over the front 15 stitches only.

Row 1: Sc across 15 sts. Turn.

Row 2: Inc, 13 sc, inc. Turn.

Row 3: Inc, 15 sc, inc. Turn.

Row 4: Sc across. Fasten off.

Edging: Join Yellow yarn and sl st around the entire brim edge.

The Backpack

Body: With Beige. Ch 11. Sc 10. Work in rows for 20 rows. Fold in half to make a pocket. Sew sides.

Flap: Attach yarn to back top edge. Sc 10 for 8 rows. Round the corners by decreasing at ends of last row.

Pocket: Make a smaller rectangle (ch 6, 4 rows) and sew to front.

Straps: Ch 30. Sc back down. Attach to back of bag.

The Carousel Horse

This is an advanced miniature.

Head: White yarn. MR 6 sc. Inc to 12. Sc 3 rows. Dec to 6.

Neck: Ch 6, join to head. Sc down.

Body: Oval shape. Ch 6, work around chain. Inc to 18 sts. Sc 6 rows. Dec and close.

Legs: Make 4 tubes (MR 4 sc, sc 5 rows). Sew to body in a “prancing” pose.

Mane/Tail: Use Brown yarn. Loop stitches (ch 5, sl st) along neck and rear.

Saddle: Blue square sewn on back.

Pole: Insert a wooden dowel through the body.

Base: Beige yarn. MR 6, inc to 30. BLO sc 1 round. Sc 2 rounds. Insert dowel into center.

The Tiny Duck

Head/Body: With Yellow. MR 6 sc. Inc to 12. Sc 2 rows. Dec to 6 (neck). Inc to 12 (body). Sc 2 rows. Dec to 6. Close.

Beak: Orange scrap. 2 stitches on face.

Bow Tie: Blue scrap. Ch 3, pinch center.

📌Thank you for reading the article


Chapter 8: Final Assembly and Sculpting

Assembly is where the magic happens. Take your time to ensure symmetry.

Step 1: Head to Body

Pin the head to the neck opening. Use the long tail from the head to whipstitch around. Go around twice for stability. If the head wobbles, you may need to insert a stabilizer (like a fabric-wrapped chopstick) into the neck before closing.

Step 2: Ear Attachment

Position the ears low on the sides of the head, roughly in line with the eyes. Angle them slightly backwards. Sew across the flattened top edge. They should hang loosely over the shoulders.

Step 3: Face Sculpting (Indentation)

To give the face expression:

1. Thread a long needle with Cream yarn.

2. Insert at the base of the neck, exit at the inner corner of the left eye.

3. Go in at the outer corner, exit back at the neck.

4. Pull gently to sink the eye. Repeat for the right eye. Knot secure.

5. Nose: Use Pink embroidery thread. Stitch a ‘Y’ shape.

Step 4: Arms

Sew the arms to the body at the shoulder line, just below the neck seam.

Step 5: Dressing

Put the shoes on the feet. Slide the dress onto the bunny (button at back). Place the backpack on the back. Position the sun visor on the head, pulling the ears through or under the band.


Care Notes

Your Buttercup Carousel Bunny is a handcrafted treasure.

  • Cleaning: Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Do not submerge, especially due to the wooden dowel in the carousel horse and the cardboard in the shoes.
  • Dusting: Use a lint roller to remove dust from the dark red shoes.
  • Storage: Store out of direct sunlight to prevent the yellow yarn from fading.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Are the safety eyes secure?
  • Is the head stable on the neck?
  • Are all loose ends woven in?
  • Is the embroidery on the dress symmetrical?
  • Does the bunny stand on its own? (Adjust stuffing in feet if needed).

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To maintain the heirloom quality of this set, handle with clean hands. If the white bodice becomes dingy, you can surface wash it with a mixture of water and gentle wool wash, applying it with a sponge. Do not wring or twist. If the flowers on the dress flatten, you can fluff them up with a needle tip.

Thank you for crafting the Buttercup Carousel Bunny. We hope she brings a touch of fairground magic to your home.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *