Crochet Tutorial: Green Peashooter Garden Explorer Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful green peashooter garden explorer doll is designed with a round plant head, trumpet-shaped black mouth opening, glossy safety eyes, leafy flower crown, safari vest, khaki shorts, backpack, sandals, compass necklace, magnifying glass, garden hat, tiny potted plants, and a small watering can. The finished doll sits sweetly like the photo, with long green limbs and detailed explorer accessories.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Doll height sitting: about 10.5 in / 27 cm from head top to feet.
• Head diameter: about 4.2 in / 10.5 cm.
• Mouth length: about 1.6 in / 4 cm from face to rim.
• Hat diameter: about 5.2 in / 13 cm.
• Small pots: about 1.2 in / 3 cm tall.
• Watering can: about 1.5 in / 4 cm wide.

The size may change depending on yarn weight, hook size, and stuffing tension. For a neat amigurumi look like the image, keep your stitches tight, firm, and evenly tensioned. The doll should feel structured but still soft enough to sit naturally on a shelf or bench.

Skill Level

Intermediate amigurumi. A confident beginner can make this pattern slowly, but the small accessories require patience. The main doll uses simple rounds, increases, decreases, color changes, BLO edging, surface crochet, embroidery, and sewing. The final character comes from careful shaping and accurate placement of every tiny garden detail.

Materials

• Sport weight or light DK cotton yarn in bright pea green for head, body, arms, legs, toes, and neck.
• DK cotton yarn in tan beige for vest, hat, sandal soles, belt details, and backpack edging.
• DK cotton yarn in khaki olive for shorts and backpack.
• Small amount of white yarn for shirt sleeves.
• Small amount of black yarn for inside mouth and cord details.
• Small amounts of brown, terracotta, yellow, blue, red, orange, gray, pale green, dark green, and cream yarn for accessories.
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for doll and clothing.
• 1.75 mm crochet hook for flowers, compass, badges, tiny plants, and details.
• 10 mm black safety eyes.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Embroidery needle.
• Black, white, red, and blue embroidery thread for compass face.
• Small piece of cardboard or plastic canvas for hat brim and vest pockets, optional.
• Fabric glue, optional, for securing very small decorations.

Abbreviations in US Terms

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• R: round or row
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Construction Notes

Use a tight amigurumi gauge. With the 2.25 mm hook and light DK cotton, 6 sc across should measure about 1 in / 2.5 cm. Gauge is not critical for wearability, but it is important for matching proportions. If your stitches leave gaps, change to a smaller hook.

The doll is made in separate parts: head, mouth tube, body, arms, legs, clothing, backpack, hat, sandals, and garden accessories. Most pieces are worked in continuous spiral rounds. Do not join rounds unless instructed. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.

Stuff the head and body firmly. Stuff the arms and legs more lightly near the top so they can hang naturally. The mouth tube should be shaped with firm stitches and only a little stuffing around the green outer tube, leaving the black opening hollow and visible.

Main Head

Use bright pea green yarn and 2.25 mm hook. The head is a round sphere with the mouth attached at the front. Stuff gradually and shape the head into a smooth globe.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
10. R10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
11. R11: sc 9, inc, repeat around. 66 sts.
12. R12: sc 10, inc, repeat around. 72 sts.
13. R13-R25: sc around. 72 sts for 13 rounds.
14. R26: sc 10, dec, repeat around. 66 sts.
15. R27: sc 9, dec, repeat around. 60 sts.
16. R28: sc 8, dec, repeat around. 54 sts.
17. R29: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
18. R30: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
19. R31: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.

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Pause here. Insert 10 mm safety eyes between R18 and R19, about 17 stitches apart. Place the mouth center between the eyes, slightly lower than the eye line. The eyes should sit high enough to give the face the same cute explorer expression seen in the image.

1. R32: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
2. R33: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
3. R34: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R35: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
5. R36: dec around. 6 sts.

Finish stuffing firmly. FO, leaving a long tail. Weave through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull closed. Hide the tail inside the head.

Black Inner Mouth Circle

Use black yarn and 2.25 mm hook. This piece forms the dark hollow center of the trumpet mouth. Keep it flat and even.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.

FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Do not stuff this piece. It should sit like a flat black disk inside the green mouth tube.

Green Trumpet Mouth Tube

Use bright pea green yarn and 2.25 mm hook. The mouth is wide at the front, slightly narrower where it joins the head, and projects forward like a soft garden pea shooter. Work firmly so the rim keeps its round shape.

1. R1: ch 36, join with sl st to form a ring, making sure the chain is not twisted.
2. R2: sc around each chain. 36 sts.
3. R3-R6: sc around. 36 sts.
4. R7: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
5. R8-R10: sc around. 30 sts.
6. R11: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
7. R12-R14: sc around. 24 sts.
8. R15: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 20 sts.
9. R16-R17: sc around. 20 sts.

FO, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head. Insert the black inner mouth disk into the wide front opening. Sew the black disk to the inside edge of R2, keeping the stitches hidden behind the green rim.

Mouth Rim

Join pea green yarn to the front edge of the mouth tube.

1. R1: FLO sc around the front opening. 36 sts.
2. R2: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 48 sts.
4. R4: sl st loosely around. 48 sts.

FO and weave in the end. The rim should flare outward with a soft raised lip. Lightly stuff only the back half of the tube if needed, leaving the black front hollow.

Attaching the Mouth

Pin the narrow end of the mouth tube to the front of the head between R18 and R25. The top of the tube should sit just below the eye line, and the bottom should point slightly downward. Sew around the 20-stitch opening twice for strength. Add a tiny amount of stuffing behind the tube before fully closing.

Neck

Use pea green yarn. The neck is short and visible above the vest collar.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R10: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff firmly. FO with a long tail. Sew the top of the neck to the underside of the head, centered below the mouth. The head should tilt slightly forward, like the doll is looking at the little garden tools.

Body

Use pea green yarn for the hidden body base. Much of this body is covered by the vest, shirt, and shorts, but the shape matters. It should be oval, smaller than the head, and stable for sitting.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8-R18: sc around. 42 sts.
9. R19: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
10. R20-R22: sc around. 36 sts.
11. R23: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
12. R24: sc around. 30 sts.
13. R25: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
14. R26: sc around. 24 sts.

Stuff firmly but do not overstuff the top. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew the neck to the top center of the body. The body should sit directly under the head, with the mouth pointing forward.

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Legs

Make 2 with pea green yarn. The legs are long and slim, ending in rounded toes visible through the sandals. Stuff firmly in the lower half and medium-firm in the upper half.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R7: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R8: sc 7, dec, sc 7, dec. 16 sts.
7. R9-R31: sc around. 16 sts for 23 rounds.
8. R32: sc 6, dec, sc 6, dec. 14 sts.
9. R33-R36: sc around. 14 sts.

Flatten the top opening. Crochet through both layers with 7 sc to close. FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body between R5 and R9 of the body, leaving about 4 stitches between them. Angle them forward so the doll sits like the photo.

Toe Bumps

Use pea green yarn and 1.75 mm hook. Make 6 small toe bumps.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 5 sts.

FO with a tail. Sew 3 toe bumps to the front of each foot, peeking out from the sandals.

Arms

Make 2 with pea green yarn. The arms are long, rounded, and simple, with one arm resting lower near the hat and the other arm hanging beside the body.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
4. R4-R8: sc around. 15 sts.
5. R9: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R10-R29: sc around. 12 sts for 20 rounds.
7. R30: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 10 sts.
8. R31-R32: sc around. 10 sts.

Stuff the hand and lower arm firmly. Leave the top lightly stuffed. Flatten the opening and crochet through both layers with 5 sc. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the upper body at R22, just under the shoulders. Place the right arm slightly forward, as if it is reaching toward the garden tools.

White Shirt Sleeves

Make 2 with white yarn. These sleeves sit under the vest at the upper arms.

1. R1: ch 16, join with sl st to form a ring.
2. R2: sc around. 16 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 16 sts.
4. R6: sl st around loosely. 16 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Slide one sleeve over each arm before sewing the arms to the body, or sew them around the upper arms afterward with tiny hidden stitches.

Khaki Shorts

Use khaki olive yarn. The shorts are made as a separate garment with two short legs and a waistband. They should sit below the vest and cover the upper legs like the image.

First Short Leg

1. R1: ch 22, join with sl st. 22 sts.
2. R2-R7: sc around. 22 sts.

FO on the first leg only. Make the second leg the same way, but do not fasten off.

Join Shorts

1. R8: sc 22 around second leg, ch 2, sc 22 around first leg, sc 2 across the chain bridge. 46 sts.
2. R9-R14: sc around. 46 sts.
3. R15: sc 9, dec, sc 21, dec, sc 12. 44 sts.
4. R16-R17: sc around. 44 sts.
5. R18: BLO sc around. 44 sts.
6. R19: sc 9, dec, repeat around. 40 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Put the shorts on the doll before attaching final belt details. The leg openings should rest just above the knees.

Shorts Ribbed Cuffs

Join khaki yarn to one leg opening.

1. R1: FLO sc around. 22 sts.
2. R2: sl st around. 22 sts.

Repeat for the second leg. Add two vertical lines of surface slip stitches on each shorts leg to imitate the ribbed texture seen in the image.

Explorer Vest

Use tan beige yarn and 2.25 mm hook. The vest is open at the front with small pockets and colorful badges. It fits over the white sleeves and green body. Work in rows.

1. R1: ch 39. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 38. Ch 1, turn.
2. R2: sc across. 38 sts.
3. R3: sc 6, ch 6, skip 6, sc 14, ch 6, skip 6, sc 6. Ch 1, turn. This creates armholes.
4. R4: sc 6, sc 6 across chain space, sc 14, sc 6 across chain space, sc 6. 38 sts.
5. R5-R13: sc across. 38 sts.
6. R14: sc 8, ch 4, skip 4, sc 14, ch 4, skip 4, sc 8. Ch 1, turn.
7. R15: sc across, working 4 sc into each chain space. 38 sts.
8. R16: sc across. 38 sts.

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FO and weave in ends. Place the vest around the body with the opening at the front. Sew the side seams under the arms for 4 stitches only, leaving the lower vest loose.

Vest Front Edging and Collar

Join tan yarn at the lower right front opening.

1. R1: sc evenly up the right front, around the neck, and down the left front. Ch 1, turn.
2. R2: sc in each stitch around the same edge. FO.

For the folded collar, join yarn at the right neck edge. Work 10 sc across the back neck area only, ch 1, turn, then work 10 hdc back. FO. Fold the collar slightly outward and tack the corners down.

Vest Pockets

Make 2 small lower pockets in tan yarn with 1.75 mm hook.

1. R1: ch 8. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7. Ch 1, turn.
2. R2-R4: sc across. 7 sts.
3. R5: sl st around the edge.

Sew one pocket to each lower vest front. Make sure the pockets are small, rectangular, and slightly raised, like tiny explorer cargo pockets.

Color Badges

Use 1.75 mm hook. Make three small round badges.

• Blue mountain badge: 6 sc in MR with blue yarn, sl st to close. Embroider a tiny green triangle and white line.
• Green garden badge: 6 sc in MR with green yarn, sl st to close. Add a yellow center stitch.
• Red flower badge: 6 sc in MR with red yarn, sl st to close. Add a white vertical stitch.

Sew the blue badge on the left chest, and the green and red badges on the right chest. Use tiny stitches so the badges look like sewn patches rather than bulky buttons.

Belt and Buckle

Use dark brown yarn. Work a chain long enough to wrap around the waist over the shorts, about 48 chains. Slip stitch back across the chain for thickness. Wrap around the waist and sew closed at the back.

For the buckle, use yellow yarn and 1.75 mm hook. Ch 8, join with sl st to form a tiny rectangle. FO and sew to the front center of the belt. Keep the buckle flat and visible below the vest.

Backpack

Use khaki olive yarn for the main backpack and tan yarn for flap and straps. The backpack sits behind the shoulders and peeks out from both sides of the doll, matching the garden explorer theme.

Backpack Body

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
6. R6-R13: sc around. 24 sts.
7. R14: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
8. R15: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff lightly. Flatten the top and sew closed. Shape the backpack into a rounded rectangle with your fingers.

Backpack Flap

Use tan yarn.

1. R1: ch 13. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
2. R2-R5: sc across. 12 sts.
3. R6: dec, sc 8, dec. 10 sts.
4. R7: sl st around the flap edge.

Sew the flap to the top back of the backpack. Add a small brown French knot or tiny 4-sc circle as the clasp.

Backpack Straps

Make 2 straps with tan yarn. Ch 26, sl st back across each chain. Sew the straps from the top of the backpack to the lower sides. Attach the backpack to the doll’s back after the vest is in place. The straps may sit partly under the arms.

Compass Necklace

The compass hangs on a black cord over the vest, with a round white face and red-blue needle. Use 1.75 mm hook.

Compass Face

Use white yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

Change to gray yarn.

1. R4: sc around. 18 sts.
2. R5: sl st around. 18 sts.

FO with a tail. Embroider N, E, S, and W around the face with black thread. Add a red stitch pointing north and a blue stitch pointing south. Sew the compass to a black chain cord about 38 chains long. Place it around the neck before final display.

Magnifying Glass

Use gray and black yarn. The magnifying glass is held near the side of the vest.

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Glass Circle

Use pale blue yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

Change to gray yarn.

1. R4: sc around. 18 sts.
2. R5: sl st around. 18 sts.

FO. For the handle, use black yarn. Ch 11, sl st back across. Sew one end to the gray rim. Add a white embroidered highlight on the blue glass.

Safari Garden Hat

Use tan beige yarn and 2.25 mm hook. The hat sits beside the doll in the image, decorated with a flower, little bug, and tiny colored garden accents. Use firm tension so the brim stays flat.

Hat Crown

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: BLO sc around. 36 sts.
8. R8-R15: sc around. 36 sts.
9. R16: FLO sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.

Hat Brim

1. R17: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
2. R18: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
3. R19: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
4. R20: sc 9, inc, repeat around. 66 sts.
5. R21: sc around. 66 sts.
6. R22: sl st loosely around. 66 sts.

FO and weave in ends. If you want a firmer brim, cut a matching circle of thin plastic canvas and sew it under the brim with hidden stitches.

Hat Band

Use brown yarn. Ch 42, sl st back across. Wrap around the base of the crown and sew in place. The band should sit just above the brim.

Hat Flower and Bug

For the small white flower, use white yarn. In MR, work ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st. Repeat 5 times for 5 petals. Pull ring closed and FO. Add a yellow center knot.

For the black and orange bug, use black yarn. Make 5 sc in MR. FO. Embroider orange wing lines and two tiny black antennae on the hat. Add two tiny blue and orange French knots around the brim to match the playful garden decorations.

Leaf Crown and Flowers on Head

The head has three leaves and two small flowers near the top left side. Place them behind the eyes, slightly off-center, so they look like a natural plant sprout decoration.

Large Dark Green Leaf

Use dark green yarn and 1.75 mm hook.

1. R1: ch 11.
2. R2: starting in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sc, hdc, dc, 5 dc in last ch.
3. R3: work on the opposite side of chain: dc, hdc, sc, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st to first stitch.

FO with a sewing tail. Embroider a center vein with light green yarn.

Small Pale Green Leaf

Use pale green yarn.

1. R1: ch 9.
2. R2: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, hdc, 4 dc in last ch.
3. R3: opposite side: hdc, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.

FO with a tail. Add a center vein.

Upright Leaf

Use medium green yarn. Repeat the small leaf pattern, but block it slightly curved. Sew it upright behind the flowers.

Orange Flower

Use orange yarn. In MR, work ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st. Repeat 5 times. Pull closed. FO. Add a darker orange or yellow center.

Pale Blue Flower

Use pale blue yarn. In MR, work ch 2, hdc, dc, hdc, ch 2, sl st. Repeat 5 times. Pull closed. Add a white or yellow center.

Sew leaves first, then flowers on top. The dark green leaf should angle left, the pale leaf should rise upward, and the blue flower should sit closest to the top of the head.

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Sandals

Make 2 sandals with tan and brown yarn. The sandals have oval soles, two straps, and tiny flower decorations. They are sewn around the green feet and toes.

Sandal Sole

Use brown yarn.

1. R1: ch 10. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side: sc 7, inc in last st. 20 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 7, inc in next 3 sts, sc 7, inc in next 2 sts. 26 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 32 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 32 sts.
5. R5: sl st around. 32 sts.

FO and weave in. Make the second sole the same. Sew each sole under the green foot, aligning the wider end under the toes.

Sandal Straps

Use tan yarn. For each sandal, make two straps.

• Front strap: ch 12, sl st back across. Sew over the toe area.
• Ankle strap: ch 15, sl st back across. Sew around the ankle area.

Add a tiny flower to the side of each sandal. For each flower, use orange or pale blue yarn. In MR, work ch 1, sc, ch 1, sl st five times. Pull closed and sew to the strap.

Tiny Potted Plants

Make two terracotta pots and two different plants, just like the small accessories next to the doll. Use 1.75 mm hook for all tiny pieces.

Terracotta Pot

Make 2 with terracotta yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
4. R4: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R7: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R8: FLO sc around. 18 sts.
7. R9: sl st around. 18 sts.

Stuff lightly. Cut a small brown circle or crochet a soil disk.

Soil Disk

Use dark brown yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

Sew the disk into the top of each pot.

Green Sprout Plant

Use green yarn. Ch 6, sl st back for the stem. Make 5 branches: ch 5, sl st back, then sl st into the stem base. Repeat until you have a tiny forked plant. Sew it to one soil disk.

Yellow Succulent Plant

Use pale yellow yarn. In MR, work ch 3, dc, ch 3, sl st. Repeat 6 times for small pointed petals. Sew to the second soil disk. Add a pale green layer underneath if desired.

Small Watering Can

Use gray yarn and 1.75 mm hook. The watering can is small, round, and sits beside the pots. It has a handle, spout, and tiny blue water dot.

Can Body

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R7: sc around. 18 sts.
5. R8: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R9: dec around. 6 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO and close.

Can Spout

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2-R5: sc around. 5 sts.

FO and sew to one side of the can, angled upward. Add one tiny blue stitch at the spout tip.

Can Handle

Use gray yarn. Ch 12, sl st back across. Sew one end near the upper side of the can and the other end near the lower side, forming a curved handle.

Small Green Neck Scarf

Use dark green yarn. The scarf peeks under the chin and above the vest.

1. R1: ch 32. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 31. Ch 1, turn.
2. R2: sc across. 31 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Wrap around the neck once and sew the ends slightly crossed at the front. Keep the scarf narrow so it does not hide the vest collar.

Front Cord Details

Use black or dark brown yarn. The image shows dark cords crossing the vest and holding the compass. For a neat look, crochet two thin cords and sew them lightly to the vest.

• Make one black chain of 36 stitches for the compass necklace.
• Make one brown chain of 28 stitches and cross it diagonally from the left shoulder to the right waist.
• Make one black chain of 24 stitches and let it hang naturally near the magnifying glass.

Use small tack stitches only at the ends and a few hidden points. The cords should look loose, not flat and stiff.

Optional Sitting Support

If your doll tips forward because of the large head and mouth, add a small weight pouch in the lower body. Fill a tiny fabric bag with plastic pellets and insert it before closing the body. Do not use loose pellets directly inside the crochet if the doll will be handled by children.

Assembly Order

1. Finish the head, eyes, black mouth disk, and green mouth tube.
2. Sew the mouth tube firmly to the front of the head.
3. Make and attach the neck to the body.
4. Sew the head and neck onto the body, checking the forward angle.
5. Attach legs to the lower front body so the doll sits.
6. Slide on sleeves and sew arms to the shoulders.
7. Put shorts on the body and secure at the waist with hidden stitches.
8. Place the vest over the body and sew side seams.
9. Add belt, pockets, badges, collar, cords, compass, and magnifying glass.
10. Sew backpack to the back.
11. Add sandals and toe bumps.
12. Sew leaves and flowers to the head.
13. Make the hat, pots, plants, and watering can as separate display accessories.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face before sewing everything permanently. The eyes should be level, shiny, and placed on either side of the mouth tube. The mouth rim should face forward with the black circle visible inside. If the mouth droops, add a few hidden support stitches under the tube.

Use a long strand of pea green yarn to lightly sculpt the head around the eyes if desired. Insert the needle behind the head, come out beside one eye, go back beside the same eye, and pull gently. Repeat on the other eye. Do not pull too tightly because the head must remain round.

Sew the leaf crown to the top left side of the head. Layer the leaves behind the flowers. The arrangement should look playful and garden-like, with one dark leaf pointing outward, one pale leaf pointing upward, and flowers clustered near the top.

Place the hat beside the doll rather than sewing it to the head, matching the display in the image. Arrange the tiny pots and watering can close to the right foot. The accessories help tell the garden explorer story and make the finished piece look complete.

Care Notes

• Spot clean only with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if you used safety eyes, cardboard, glue, or plastic canvas.
• Let the doll air dry fully before storing.
• Keep the small potted plants, compass, magnifying glass, and watering can away from very young children.
• Gently reshape the mouth rim and hat brim after cleaning.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round and firmly stuffed.
• The mouth tube is centered, hollow, and slightly flared at the rim.
• The eyes are even and placed above the mouth line.
• The vest has pockets, badges, collar, cords, and necklace details.
• The shorts sit neatly under the vest.
• The backpack is visible from the sides and back.
• The legs are attached forward so the doll sits naturally.
• The sandals show green toes and small side flowers.
• The hat includes a band, flower, tiny bug, and colored decorations.
• The pots, plants, watering can, compass, and magnifying glass are complete.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, hold the doll by the body instead of the mouth or leaves. The projecting mouth is sturdy when sewn well, but repeated pulling can loosen the stitches. When dusting, use a soft brush around the eyes, vest badges, compass, and tiny flowers.

For deeper cleaning, dampen a white cloth with cool water and gently dab the stained area. Avoid rubbing the black mouth insert, embroidered compass letters, and tiny accessory stitches. Lay the doll flat on a towel and support the mouth with another folded towel while it dries.

Store the doll away from direct sunlight to protect the bright green yarn. If displaying on a wooden shelf or bench, place a clean fabric mat underneath to prevent dust transfer. Keep the accessories in a small box when not displayed so the tiny plants and watering can are not lost.

After drying or long storage, reshape the hat brim with your fingers, fluff the backpack slightly, straighten the cords, and adjust the leaves. A few gentle stitches can refresh loose decorations over time. With careful handling, your green peashooter garden explorer doll will stay bright, cute, and display-ready.