Clematis Window-Lace Bunny – Knitting

Clematis Window-Lace Bunny – Knitting

This soft bunny doll is dressed for a garden stroll: a lilac beret with leafy lace, a sky-blue cardigan with tiny bobble accents, and a twirly skirt featuring window-lace panels and a clematis border. The set also includes small knit props that photograph beautifully for shop listings and gift bundles—think DK cotton blends, 2.5–3.0 mm needles, washable toy stuffing, sturdy buttons, and embroidery floss for crisp floral details. If you enjoy shopping for quality yarn, heirloom doll buttons, and lace-friendly needles, this project turns those supplies into a display-worthy keepsake.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Approx. 13–15 in (33–38 cm) tall, from beret top to slipper soles, depending on yarn choice and stuffing firmness.

Goose companion: about 4–5 in (10–13 cm) tall.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate. You should be comfortable with shaping, seaming, and simple lace repeats.

Everything is written with extra checkpoints so newer knitters can follow without feeling overwhelmed.

Yarn and Colors

  • Main Bunny: DK or light worsted in Cream/Oat (approx. 200–260 yd / 183–238 m).
  • Beret: DK in Lilac (approx. 80–110 yd / 73–101 m).
  • Cardigan: DK in Soft Sky Blue (approx. 90–130 yd / 82–119 m).
  • Skirt: DK in Sage Green (approx. 80–120 yd / 73–110 m) + Lilac + Pale Mint for stripes.
  • Embroidery: 2–3 shades of purple + green floss for clematis vine border.
  • Accessories: DK in Cream + scraps of Lilac, Pale Blue, and Black/Orange for goose beak details.

Choose smooth yarn so the face and lace motifs read clearly, like mercerized cotton blends or tightly spun acrylic blends.

If substituting yarn, keep thickness consistent across all parts for the best proportions.

Needles and Notions

  • 2.75 mm (US 2) straight needles or a circular for working flat.
  • 2.25 mm (US 1) needles for tighter lace accessories (optional but recommended).
  • Double-pointed needles (optional) for small props, or work flat and seam.
  • Tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn.
  • Stuffing, small scissors, pins for assembly.
  • Eyes: 6–8 mm safety eyes, or embroider for child-safe finish.
  • Strong thread for buttons and for attaching limbs.
  • 4 small cardigan buttons (8–10 mm) or faux buttons.

Gauge

Stockinette: 26 sts x 34 rows = 4 in (10 cm) on 2.75 mm needles, lightly stuffed.

Gauge is not critical, but it affects final size and how the clothes fit.

If your bunny looks loose or “gappy,” move down a needle size for a denser fabric.

Construction Overview

  • Bunny is worked mostly flat in pieces and seamed.
  • Head is a shaped “sphere” with a small muzzle area created by embroidery and stuffing placement.
  • Ears are long and soft, set low at the sides of the head like in the photo.
  • Body is a simple torso with a gentle waist, designed to sit neatly under the cardigan.
  • Skirt is a separate piece with lace “window” panels and an embroidered clematis border.
  • Accessories include fingerless mitts, lace tote, hand fan, clematis blossoms, and a tiny goose.

Abbreviations

  • k knit
  • p purl
  • st(s) stitch(es)
  • RS/WS right side / wrong side
  • k2tog knit 2 together
  • ssk slip, slip, knit
  • yo yarn over
  • m1L/m1R make one left/right
  • sl1 slip 1 stitch purlwise
  • BO bind off
  • CO cast on

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Helpful Notes

Read each section once before starting. Keep a row counter for the lace portions.

Stuff firmly but not rock-hard, especially in the head and body, so the clothes sit smoothly.

When seaming, match rows carefully for straight edges and a polished finish.

Use pins often. Pinning before sewing is the secret to symmetrical toys.

Bunny Doll

Head (Cream/Oat)

The head is worked flat and seamed up the back, with decreases creating a rounded top and chin.

Use a tight tension so stuffing does not show through.

Head Panel

  1. CO 34 sts. Work 2 rows in garter (k all rows).
  2. Begin stockinette: Row 1 (RS) k. Row 2 (WS) p. Repeat these 2 rows for 10 rows total.
  3. Shape: Row 11 (RS) k1, m1R, k to last st, m1L, k1 (36 sts).
  4. Row 12 (WS) p.
  5. Row 13 (RS) k1, m1R, k to last st, m1L, k1 (38 sts).
  6. Row 14 (WS) p.

Work 8 more rows in stockinette even, ending on a WS row.

Round the top

  1. Next (RS) k2, k2tog, k to 4 sts from end, ssk, k2 (36 sts).
  2. Next (WS) p.
  3. Next (RS) k2, k2tog, k to 4 sts from end, ssk, k2 (34 sts).
  4. Next (WS) p.
  5. Repeat these decrease pairs 5 more times (24 sts), keeping decreases aligned.

Work 2 rows even in stockinette to smooth the curve.

Chin shaping

  1. Next (RS) k2, k2tog, k to 4 sts from end, ssk, k2 (22 sts).
  2. Next (WS) p.
  3. Next (RS) k2, k2tog, k to 4 sts from end, ssk, k2 (20 sts).
  4. Next (WS) p.
  5. Work 6 rows even in stockinette.
  6. Finish with 2 rows garter (k all rows). BO loosely.

Seam and Stuff Head

Fold head panel in half, RS facing out. Mattress stitch the back seam from BO edge down to CO edge.

Leave a 2 in (5 cm) opening. Turn if needed so seam sits centered at the back.

Stuff firmly, shaping a gentle muzzle by pushing a small “pocket” of stuffing forward at the lower front.

Close the opening neatly. Set aside.

Ears (Make 2, Cream/Oat)

Ears are long and flat with a subtle taper. They should hang down beside the head.

  1. CO 16 sts. Work 2 rows garter.
  2. Work stockinette for 22 rows, ending with a WS purl row.
  3. Shape tip: (RS) k1, k2tog, k to last 3, ssk, k1 (14 sts).
  4. (WS) p.
  5. Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times (6 sts).
  6. Next (RS) k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1 (4 sts).
  7. Next (WS) p.
  8. Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining 4 sts, pull tight to close tip.

Do not stuff. Lightly steam flat if your fabric curls.

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Body (Cream/Oat)

The torso is worked flat and seamed, with a gentle waist so the skirt and cardigan fit cleanly.

  1. CO 28 sts. Work 4 rows garter.
  2. Stockinette 18 rows.
  3. Waist shaping (RS) k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2 (26 sts).
  4. (WS) p.
  5. Repeat waist decrease once more (24 sts).
  6. Work 10 rows even in stockinette.
  7. Hip shaping (RS) k1, m1R, k to last st, m1L, k1 (26 sts).
  8. (WS) p.
  9. Repeat increase once more (28 sts).
  10. Work 12 rows even.
  11. Work 4 rows garter. BO.

Seam and Stuff Body

Fold in half and seam side edges, leaving the top and bottom open.

Stuff firmly, keeping the waist slightly narrower than the hips.

Close the bottom opening with a tight whip stitch, flattening slightly for a stable seated look.

Arms (Make 2, Cream/Oat)

Arms are lightly stuffed and stitched into a relaxed “down” position like the photo.

  1. CO 14 sts. Work 2 rows garter.
  2. Stockinette 20 rows.
  3. Hand shaping: (RS) k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2 (12 sts).
  4. (WS) p.
  5. Work 6 rows even.
  6. Work 2 rows garter. BO.

Fold longways, seam along the length, and close one end for the “hand.”

Turn RS out. Stuff lightly, leaving the top 1 in (2.5 cm) unstuffed for easy attachment.

Legs and Feet (Make 2, Cream/Oat)

Legs are longer than the arms and end in simple slipper-like feet.

The feet will be embroidered later to mimic ballet slipper lines.

  1. CO 18 sts. Work 4 rows garter.
  2. Stockinette 28 rows for the leg.
  3. Foot shaping: (RS) k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2 (16 sts).
  4. (WS) p.
  5. (RS) k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2 (14 sts).
  6. (WS) p.
  7. Work 8 rows even to form the foot length.
  8. Toe: (RS) k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2 (12 sts).
  9. (WS) p.
  10. (RS) k2tog across (6 sts). Cut yarn, pull through sts, draw tight.

Seam the leg tube. At the foot, seam carefully so the toe sits centered.

Turn RS out. Stuff firmly in the leg and moderately in the foot.

Flatten the sole slightly with your fingers so the slippers look rounded but stable.

Tail (Cream/Oat)

A tiny pom-pom style tail peeks behind the skirt, but keep it small so it does not push the waistband outward.

  1. CO 10 sts. Work 8 rows garter.
  2. BO. Roll into a tight coil and stitch securely.

Face and Placement Planning

Before attaching the head, mark the front center of the body and the front center of the head.

Position eyes midway down the head, spaced about 8–9 sts apart visually.

The nose and mouth are a small “Y” shape, centered low and slightly forward.

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Outfit

Lilac Beret with Leaf Lace

The beret is a soft, slouchy shape with repeated leaf motifs that resemble the photo’s delicate veins.

Work it flat as a circle-like wedge strip, then seam into a round beret.

Beret Band

  1. CO 56 sts. Work 8 rows of 1×1 rib: (RS) k1, p1 across. (WS) p1, k1 across.
  2. Next RS row: k across, increasing evenly by 12 sts (68 sts).

Leaf Lace Body (worked in rows)

Place markers every 17 sts to separate 4 repeats (17 sts per repeat).

Within each repeat, work the following 16-row motif.

Lace Repeat (17 sts)

  • Row 1 (RS): k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, ssk, k2
  • Row 2 (WS): p across
  • Row 3: k2, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, ssk, k3
  • Row 4: p across
  • Row 5: k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2
  • Row 6: p across
  • Row 7: k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k6, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2
  • Row 8: p across
  • Row 9: k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2
  • Row 10: p across
  • Row 11: k2, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k2
  • Row 12: p across
  • Row 13: k2, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k2
  • Row 14: p across
  • Row 15: k across
  • Row 16: p across

Work Rows 1–16 across all repeats, keeping markers in place.

Repeat the 16-row motif 2 more times (3 motifs total), for a deep slouch.

Crown Shaping

Switch to stockinette for easier closing while preserving the lace look.

  1. Next RS: (k15, k2tog) repeat across (64 sts).
  2. WS: p.
  3. RS: (k14, k2tog) repeat across (60 sts).
  4. WS: p.
  5. Continue decreasing every RS row, keeping decreases stacked, until 12 sts remain.
  6. Cut yarn, thread through 12 sts, pull tight, and secure.

Seam the beret along the short edge if you worked it as a strip, or close the band as a ring first if preferred.

Steam lightly to open leaf motifs, then let dry flat over a bowl shape.

Sky-Blue Cardigan with Bobble Accents

The cardigan is cropped with short sleeves and a front opening.

Tiny raised “buds” are added as bobbles to match the photo’s dotted texture.

Back

  1. CO 30 sts. Work 6 rows garter.
  2. Work 18 rows stockinette.
  3. Armhole shaping: BO 3 sts at start of next 2 rows (24 sts).
  4. Work 10 rows even.
  5. Neck: BO center 8 sts. Work each side separately.
  6. Each side: BO 2 sts at neck edge once. Work 4 rows even. BO remaining shoulder sts.

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Left Front

  1. CO 18 sts. Work 6 rows garter.
  2. Stockinette 14 rows, ending WS.
  3. Add bobble buds on RS rows as follows: k3, bobble, k5, bobble, k to end.
  4. Bobble: (k into next st, do not drop, yo, k again into same st, yo, k again) then drop; turn, p5, turn, k5, then k2tog with the bobble base to close.
  5. Work 4 more rows stockinette.
  6. Armhole: BO 3 sts at start of next WS row (15 sts). Work 10 rows even.
  7. Neck shaping: at front edge, BO 2 sts once, then BO 1 st twice, every other row.
  8. BO remaining shoulder sts to match back.

Right Front

Work as Left Front, reversing shaping and placing bobbles to mirror.

Keep the front garter edge on both fronts so the opening lays flat.

Sleeves (Make 2)

  1. CO 20 sts. Work 6 rows garter.
  2. Stockinette 10 rows.
  3. Shape cap: BO 2 sts at start of next 2 rows (16 sts).
  4. BO 1 st at start of next 4 rows (12 sts).
  5. BO remaining sts.

Cardigan Finishing

Seam shoulders. Set sleeves into armholes, then seam side and sleeve seams.

Pick up along front edges and neck with 2.75 mm needles if you want a firmer border.

Work 4 rows garter and BO. Add 4 tiny buttons evenly down the right front.

Sew corresponding button loops from thread or small yarn chains on the left front.

Skirt with Window-Lace Panels and Clematis Border

The skirt is worked as a flared tube-like panel, seamed at the back, then gathered slightly at the waist.

It features alternating color wedges with a central lace “window” panel like the photo.

Skirt Base (worked flat)

  1. With Sage Green, CO 86 sts. Work 6 rows garter for a neat hem.
  2. Set panel plan: 10 sts Sage, 12 sts Lilac lace panel, 10 sts Pale Mint, 12 sts Lilac lace panel, repeat to end.
  3. Adjust the last section as needed so you end with a solid-color block on both edges for seaming.

Window-Lace Panel (12 sts)

  • Row A (RS): k2, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k2
  • Row B (WS): p across panel
  • Row C (RS): k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k4
  • Row D (WS): p across panel

Work the skirt with solid-color blocks in stockinette while working lace panels in their 4-row repeat.

Keep color changes neat by twisting yarns at the boundaries to avoid holes.

Work 34 rows total above the hem, ending on a WS row.

Subtle Flare

Increase at the center of each solid block every 8th row, 3 times total.

Example increase row (RS): in each 10-st solid block, k5, m1R, k5.

This creates the gentle A-line shape seen in the photo without bulky gathers.

Waistband

  1. Switch to Sage Green for a unified waist edge.
  2. Work 6 rows of 1×1 rib (k1, p1 across). BO in rib.

Skirt Assembly

Fold skirt RS out and seam the back with mattress stitch, keeping lace columns aligned.

Run a strong gathering thread through the inside of the rib waistband.

Gather slightly to fit the bunny waist, then stitch skirt onto the body at the waistline.

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Clematis Border Embroidery

Using purple floss, embroider small five- to six-petal clematis shapes along the lower hem band.

Space flowers evenly, with a few clustered like the photo’s border.

Add green stem lines and small leaves in between to form a continuous vine.

Keep stitches small and flat so the hem stays smooth.

Green Waist Belt

The photo shows a narrow green band at the waist, peeking between cardigan and skirt.

  1. With Sage Green, CO 5 sts.
  2. Work i-cord style in garter: k all rows for 40–45 rows, or until it wraps the waist.
  3. BO. Stitch ends together at the back seam under the cardigan.

Accessories

Fingerless Mitts (Cream/Oat, Make 2)

These are simple rib tubes, sized to sit beside the bunny like the photo.

You can also scale them to fit the bunny paws if desired.

  1. CO 22 sts on 2.25–2.75 mm needles.
  2. Work 1×1 rib for 26 rows.
  3. Work 4 rows stockinette for a neat top edge.
  4. BO loosely.
  5. Seam into a tube. Leave a 1 in (2.5 cm) opening if you want a thumb slit.

Lace Tote Bag (Cream/Oat)

The bag is a delicate lace panel with a gathered top and a thin strap.

Work the lace with firm tension so it holds its shape.

Bag Body

  1. CO 34 sts.
  2. Work 2 rows garter.
  3. Repeat the following 8-row lace sequence 4 times.
  • Row 1 (RS): k2, (yo, k2tog) repeat to last 2, k2
  • Row 2 (WS): p across
  • Row 3: k2, (k1, yo, ssk) repeat to last 2, k2
  • Row 4: p across
  • Row 5: k2, (k2tog, yo, k1) repeat to last 2, k2
  • Row 6: p across
  • Row 7: k across
  • Row 8: p across

After 32 lace rows, work 4 rows garter and BO.

Fold in half and seam sides, leaving the top open.

Run a gathering thread through the top edge to create a soft pouch shape.

Strap

  1. CO 4 sts. Work i-cord style garter for 60–70 rows.
  2. BO and stitch strap ends to bag sides.

Hand Fan (Cream with Lilac Tip)

The fan is a semicircle with simple color shading near the edge.

Work it flat, then add a small handle.

  1. With Cream, CO 6 sts. Work 2 rows garter.
  2. Increase row (RS): k1, m1R, k to last st, m1L, k1.
  3. WS: k across (garter keeps it flat).
  4. Repeat these 2 rows until you have 28 sts.
  5. Switch to Lilac for 6 rows garter for the dipped-color tip.
  6. BO.

Handle

  1. CO 5 sts in Cream. Work 14 rows garter. BO.
  2. Roll handle into a tight tube and stitch. Sew to fan base center.

Clematis Blossoms (Purple and Pale Lilac)

These flowers sit at the bunny’s side in the photo, with layered petals and a tiny center.

Make 3–5 blossoms in two purple tones for a natural cluster.

Petal Strip (Make 1 strip per flower)

  1. CO 30 sts.
  2. Work 2 rows garter.
  3. Next RS: *k2tog, yo* repeat across to create eyelets.
  4. WS: p across.
  5. Work 4 rows stockinette.
  6. BO.

Fold strip into loops to form 5–6 petals. Stitch loops at the base tightly.

Add a small embroidered star center with pale yarn or white floss.

For stems, twist two strands of green yarn, knot ends, and stitch to the flower backs.

Goose Companion (Cream, with Lilac Hat and Blue Speckles)

The small bird sits at the bunny’s side. Keep it compact and slightly rounded.

Work body flat and seam, then add wings and a tiny hat.

Body

  1. CO 18 sts in Cream. Work 2 rows garter.
  2. Stockinette 14 rows.
  3. Shape: (RS) k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2 (16 sts). WS p.
  4. Work 6 rows even.
  5. Neck: BO 4 sts at start of next 2 rows (8 sts remain centered).
  6. Work 10 rows on these 8 sts for the neck.
  7. BO, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Seam body sides, stuffing lightly. Keep the neck upright but soft.

Add a tiny orange beak with duplicate stitch or a small felt triangle.

Embroider black eyes with two small knots or short satin stitches.

Wings (Make 2)

  1. CO 10 sts. Work 2 rows garter.
  2. Stockinette 6 rows.
  3. Shape tip: (RS) k1, k2tog, k to last 3, ssk, k1 (8 sts). WS p.
  4. BO.

Stitch wings to the sides. Add pale blue speckle dots with embroidery floss like the photo’s subtle accents.

Lilac Bird Hat

  1. CO 22 sts. Work 6 rows 1×1 rib.
  2. Work 6 rows stockinette.
  3. Decrease: (RS) k2tog across (11 sts). Cut yarn, pull through, cinch.
  4. Seam hat and place on goose head at a jaunty angle.

Attachment Guide

Attach Head to Body

Center the head on the body top, with the head seam at the back.

Use pins to hold position. Stitch around the neck opening with strong thread.

Go around twice for durability. Tug gently to confirm it is secure.

Attach Ears

Place ears low on the sides of the head, starting slightly behind the eye line.

The ears should hang down and frame the face, not stick upward.

Stitch the top 1.5 in (4 cm) of each ear base so the rest drapes naturally.

Attach Arms

Pin arms at the side seams of the body, just below the neck join.

Angle them slightly forward so the bunny can “hold” the fan or flowers in photos.

Sew with ladder stitch, catching deep fabric for strength.

Attach Legs

Position legs at the lower front of the body, spaced evenly and parallel.

Stitch them so the bunny sits neatly with legs hanging straight down like in the photo.

Reinforce with multiple passes of strong thread.

Foot Embroidery for Ballet Slippers

Use cream yarn or slightly darker beige floss to create the delicate crisscross lines.

Embroider an oval toe line near the front, then add two crossing straps on each foot.

Keep stitches smooth and symmetrical. Tie off securely inside the foot.

Dressing the Bunny

Put the skirt on first and stitch the waistband in place at the back seam.

Add the green waist belt over the waistband, hiding the skirt gather thread.

Slide the cardigan on gently, keeping the ears free and the hem sitting above the belt.

Button the cardigan. Place the beret slightly tilted, with leaf motifs visible on top.

Photo-Accurate Styling Tips

  • Angle the beret so it slouches to one side rather than sitting flat.
  • Arrange flowers at the bunny’s right side, overlapping the skirt edge.
  • Place the goose companion seated close to the bunny’s right foot.
  • Set mitts, tote, and fan to the left side for a balanced scene.
  • Keep the cardigan centered so the front opening frames the skirt panels.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Install safety eyes before fully closing the head if you prefer that method.

Embroider a small “Y” nose: one vertical stitch, then two short diagonals for the mouth.

Add a tiny chin indent by taking a stitch from mouth area to back of head and tightening gently.

Brush the face lightly with your fingers to smooth stitches and even the stuffing shape.

Care Notes

Display pieces last longer when kept out of direct sunlight and away from high humidity.

If the doll is handled often, check buttons and limb seams regularly.

For a gift, include a note that lace sections should be treated gently to avoid snags.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head centered and firmly attached, seam at the back.
  • Ears placed low and even, draping smoothly.
  • Legs aligned so the bunny sits neatly.
  • Skirt lace panels aligned and hem embroidery secure.
  • Cardigan buttons spaced evenly and fasten without puckering.
  • Beret crown cinch secure, lace opened nicely.
  • Accessories complete: mitts, lace tote, fan, flowers, goose companion.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with cool water and a mild soap on a soft cloth, especially on the face and cardigan.

Rinse cloth well and dab, never rub hard on embroidered areas.

Air dry flat on a towel, reshaping beret lace and skirt hem with fingers.

For long-term storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and store in a breathable cotton bag.

Avoid plastic airtight bins for lace items, as trapped moisture can dull fibers over time.

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