This heirloom-style bunny is dressed for a garden afternoon, complete with a wide-brim hat crowned in hydrangea blooms, a ribbon-trim cardigan, and a textured “smocked” skirt hem that looks like tiny flower buds. The set also includes a tiny bear friend and sweet props for styling photos. If you’re searching shopping keywords like knitting needles, DK weight yarn, polyester stuffing, tapestry needle, satin ribbon, and safety eyes, you’ll love that everything here is made with approachable techniques and repeatable shaping.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Finished Size and Look
Worked at the suggested gauge, the bunny finishes approximately 11–12 in (28–30 cm) tall from feet to top of hat brim. The body is a warm oatmeal-beige with long floppy ears, simple stitched facial lines, and small black eyes. The outfit is soft gray with lavender edging, hydrangea-color accents (periwinkle, sky blue, lilac, and deep violet), and matching lavender shoes tied with satin bows.
The skirt hem has a deep band of bobble texture in a blue-to-purple gradient and ends in a gentle scallop. The hat is a natural straw-tan shade with a sturdy brim and a hydrangea flower cluster across the crown. The tiny bear is brown with a simple cream dress, sized to sit beside the bunny as shown.
Skill Level
- Confident beginner to intermediate
- Techniques used: knitting flat, knitting in the round (optional for a few pieces), basic shaping, simple seaming, bobbles, i-cord (optional), embroidery, and small accessories
Materials
- Yarn: DK weight (light worsted) in the following colors:
- MC Bunny: Oatmeal-beige (approx. 110–140 g total for bunny body + arms/legs + ears)
- Outfit base: Soft gray (approx. 80–100 g)
- Hydrangea accents: Periwinkle blue, sky blue, lilac, deep violet (approx. 10–15 g each)
- Leaf green (approx. 5–10 g)
- Hat: Straw-tan (approx. 25–35 g)
- Bear: Medium brown (approx. 20–30 g) and cream (approx. 10–15 g)
- Prop accents: Small scraps of lavender and white
- Needles: US 3 (3.25 mm) and US 2 (2.75 mm) straight needles or circulars for flat knitting; DPNs or magic loop if knitting small tubes in the round
- Notions: Polyester stuffing, tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors, row counter
- Eyes: 8–10 mm black safety eyes OR black yarn for embroidered eyes
- Ribbons: 1/4 in (6 mm) satin ribbon in lavender for shoe bows and pouch tie
- Optional: Pipe cleaner or soft armature wire for poseable ears (use safely and securely), fabric glue for ribbon ends
Gauge
In stockinette stitch on US 3 (3.25 mm) needles: 24 sts x 32 rows = 4 in (10 cm), after light blocking. Gauge is not extremely critical, but consistent tension helps the face and outfit look crisp and proportional.
Construction Overview
- The bunny is knit in separate pieces: head, body, arms, legs, ears, tail.
- The dress is knit as a top-to-hem piece with a textured bobble band and scalloped edge.
- The cardigan is knit flat with lavender scalloped edging and colorwork panels on the sleeves.
- The hat is knit in the round (or flat and seamed) with a firm brim.
- The hydrangea crown is made from small bobble-like blossoms and leaves, sewn to the hat.
- Props: drawstring pouch, hydrangea sprig, lace handkerchief, wrapped candy.
- The bear friend is a tiny knit companion with a simple dress.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS/WS = right side / wrong side
- inc = increase
- dec = decrease
- k2tog = knit two together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- m1L/m1R = make one left/right
- sm = slip marker
- pm = place marker
- tbl = through back loop
- stst = stockinette stitch
- g-st = garter stitch
Special Stitches
Bobble (Bbl)
Work into 1 stitch: k1, (k1, p1, k1) all into same stitch (5 sts made). Turn, p5. Turn, k5. Turn, p5. Turn, k2tog, k1, k2tog (3 sts). Turn, p3. Turn, ssk, k1, k2tog (1 st). Continue pattern. This creates a rounded “bud” like the skirt texture in the photo.
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Simple Scallop Edge
At hem, scallops are formed by short repeats of decreases and yarnovers. If you prefer, you may substitute a picot BO, but the written scallop below matches the soft wave seen on the skirt and doily.
Lazy Daisy Leaf (Embroidery)
For tiny leaf detail on colorwork panels, use green yarn and make small detached chain stitches. Keep them subtle so the sleeves remain the focus.
Bunny: Head
Notes: The head is slightly wider than the body and gently oval, with the face centered low enough that the hat brim doesn’t cover the eyes. Work firmly so stuffing does not show.
Head (worked flat and seamed)
Using oatmeal-beige and US 3 needles, CO 36 sts.
Row 1 (WS): purl.
Row 2 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1 st, m1L, k1. (38)
Row 3: purl.
Row 4: k1, m1R, k to last 1 st, m1L, k1. (40)
Row 5: purl.
Row 6: k1, m1R, k to last 1 st, m1L, k1. (42)
Rows 7–20: work stst (Row 7 purl, Row 8 knit, etc.).
Shape top of head with gentle dome decreases.
Row 21 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (40)
Row 22: purl.
Row 23: k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (38)
Row 24: purl.
Row 25: k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (36)
Row 26: purl.
Row 27: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (34)
Row 28: purl.
Row 29: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (32)
Row 30: purl.
Row 31: k2tog across. (16)
Row 32: purl.
Row 33: k2tog across. (8)
Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight to close. Do not fasten off yet.
Seam and Stuff
Fold head piece with RS facing out, seam along side edges to create a rounded tube. Use mattress stitch for an invisible seam. Stuff firmly, shaping into a soft oval. Close the bottom opening with gathered stitches, then secure all ends.
Bunny: Body
The body is slightly tapered at the shoulders and wider at the hips so the dress sits naturally. Keep stitches dense and seams neat so the cardigan edges lie flat.
Body (worked flat and seamed)
Using oatmeal-beige, CO 34 sts.
Row 1 (WS): purl.
Rows 2–6: work stst.
Increase to hips.
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Row 7 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (36)
Row 8: purl.
Row 9: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (38)
Row 10: purl.
Rows 11–22: stst.
Shape waist slightly (very subtle).
Row 23 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (36)
Row 24: purl.
Rows 25–30: stst.
Shape shoulders.
Row 31 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (34)
Row 32: purl.
Row 33: k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (32)
Row 34: purl.
Row 35: k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (30)
Row 36: purl.
BO 6 sts at start of next 2 rows for armholes. (18 sts remain on needle after both BO rows.)
Work 6 rows stst on remaining 18 sts for upper chest.
BO all sts. Leave long tail for seaming.
Seam and Stuff
Seam side edges, leaving armholes open. Gather and close bottom opening, then stuff firmly, keeping the tummy rounded but not overstuffed. Close neatly and weave in ends.
Bunny: Legs (Make 2)
The legs are short and sturdy so the bunny can sit as shown. The shoes will cover the feet, so focus on a smooth cylinder and a rounded toe.
Leg (flat, then seamed)
Using oatmeal-beige, CO 20 sts.
Rows 1–4: work 2×2 rib (k2, p2).
Rows 5–18: stst.
Shape toe.
Row 19 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (18)
Row 20: purl.
Row 21: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (16)
Row 22: purl.
Row 23: k2tog across. (8)
Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight to close toe. Seam leg, stuff lightly at ankle and more firmly above. Leave top open for attaching to body.
Attach Legs
Pin legs to the body bottom so they sit slightly forward, matching the seated pose. Sew securely around the top edges. Add extra stitches at the front to keep the legs aligned and stable.
Bunny: Arms (Make 2)
The cardigan sleeves will sit over the arms, so keep them slim with gentle shaping. The hands are simple, rounded mitt-like ends.
Arm
Using oatmeal-beige, CO 16 sts.
Rows 1–4: 2×2 rib.
Rows 5–14: stst.
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Shape hand.
Row 15 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (14)
Row 16: purl.
Row 17: k2tog across. (7)
Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight to close. Seam and stuff lightly. Leave top open for sewing to body.
Attach Arms
Sew arms into armholes so they angle slightly down and forward, as in the photo. Secure with small, dense stitches. Weave ends inside the body.
Bunny: Ears (Make 2)
The ears are long and floppy, attached under the hat brim. The inner ear is not a separate piece in the photo, so keep the ear plain and sculpt with seaming.
Ear
Using oatmeal-beige, CO 14 sts.
Rows 1–6: stst.
Increase for gentle ear width.
Row 7 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (16)
Row 8: purl.
Rows 9–24: stst.
Shape tip slightly.
Row 25 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (14)
Row 26: purl.
Row 27: k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (12)
Row 28: purl.
Row 29: k2tog across. (6)
Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight to close tip. Seam ear along side edge, leaving base open. Lightly stuff only at the base, then flatten the rest so it drapes.
Attach Ears
Place ears on the sides of the head, slightly behind the eye line, so they fall forward under the hat brim. Sew firmly at the bases. If adding a soft armature, insert it only at the base and secure deeply inside.
Bunny: Tail
Using oatmeal-beige, make a small pom-pom or knit a tiny ball. For a knit tail: CO 6 sts, work i-cord for 2 in, then gather into a nub and sew at center back.
Face Embroidery
Use black yarn or embroidery floss for the face lines. The photo shows small black eyes and a simple nose/mouth stitch with a short vertical line and a soft “Y” split.
- Eyes: If using safety eyes, place them about 9–10 sts apart, centered horizontally, and about 1/3 down from the head top. Secure backs before fully closing the head if possible.
- Nose line: With brown or slightly darker beige yarn, stitch a tiny vertical line (about 3/8 in / 1 cm).
- Mouth: From the bottom of the nose line, split into two short diagonal stitches to form a gentle “Y”. Keep it subtle.
- Cheek shaping (optional): Add two tiny anchoring stitches from the outer corners of the mouth into the head to create a soft dimple.
Outfit: Textured Smock Dress
The dress is gray with a wide, heavily textured hem band that looks like clustered buds in blue and purple. To match the photo, the bodice stays smooth, then transitions into the bobble band, then finishes with a scalloped edge.
Dress Bodice (worked flat)
Using soft gray and US 3 needles, CO 34 sts.
Rows 1–4: 2×2 rib for a neat top edge that sits under the cardigan.
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Rows 5–22: stst.
Shape slight A-line.
Row 23 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (36)
Row 24: purl.
Row 25: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (38)
Row 26: purl.
Rows 27–34: stst.
Row 35 (RS): k across. This row helps the bobble band sit cleanly.
Hydrangea Bobble Band
Color plan: Work bobbles in clustered rows, shifting from sky/periwinkle to lilac/violet as you go down. The base fabric stays gray, and bobbles pop on the RS. Change colors only for bobbles to mimic the gradient dots seen in the skirt.
Rows 36–37: stst in gray.
Row 38 (RS): k2, (Bbl in next st using sky blue, k3 in gray) repeat across, ending k2. Keep bobbles evenly spaced.
Row 39 (WS): purl all sts in gray, working purl bumps behind bobbles as normal.
Row 40 (RS): k1, (k2 in gray, Bbl in next st using periwinkle, k2 in gray) repeat across, ending k1. This offsets the bobbles.
Row 41 (WS): purl all in gray.
Row 42 (RS): Repeat Row 38, but use a mix of periwinkle and lilac bobbles. Scatter colors so the band looks natural.
Row 43 (WS): purl all in gray.
Row 44 (RS): Repeat Row 40, now favor lilac.
Row 45 (WS): purl all in gray.
Row 46 (RS): Repeat Row 38, use lilac and deep violet bobbles, with a few periwinkle bobbles left for a blended look.
Row 47 (WS): purl all in gray.
Row 48 (RS): Repeat Row 40, mostly deep violet with a few lilac.
Row 49 (WS): purl all in gray.
Row 50 (RS): Knit across in gray, gently tightening tension after bobbles so the hem doesn’t flare too much.
Scalloped Hem
Switch to US 2 needles for a slightly firmer edge. Work the following scallop across the RS:
Row 51 (RS): *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* repeat from * to * across as evenly as possible.
Row 52 (WS): purl all sts.
Row 53 (RS): knit all sts.
BO loosely on Row 54 (WS) purlwise to keep the scallop wave soft.
Dress Back Seam and Fit
Seam the dress up the back with mattress stitch, leaving the top 2–2.5 in (5–6.5 cm) open if you want it removable. If you prefer a permanent dress, seam fully closed and slide it onto the bunny before attaching the head.
If leaving an opening, create a simple closure:
- Make 2 tiny yarn loops on one side of the opening.
- Sew 2 tiny buttons on the other side, or stitch a simple tie with gray yarn.
Outfit: Ribbon-Edged Cardigan
The cardigan is soft gray with lavender scalloped trim and hydrangea motifs on the sleeves. In the photo, the front edges are outlined in lavender and the sleeves have blue-purple pattern panels. Keep the cardigan slightly cropped so the bobble hem of the dress is visible.
Cardigan Back
Using soft gray and US 3 needles, CO 30 sts.
Rows 1–4: 2×2 rib.
Rows 5–22: stst.
Shape armholes.
BO 3 sts at start of next 2 rows. (24)
Work 8 rows stst.
Shape shoulders and neck.
Row (RS): BO 6, k12, BO 6.
Work each shoulder (6 sts) for 2 more rows, then BO. Leave tails for seaming.
Cardigan Fronts (Make 2)
CO 16 sts in gray.
Rows 1–4: 2×2 rib.
Rows 5–18: stst.
Armhole shaping.
BO 3 sts at armhole edge once. (13)
Work 6 rows stst.
Neck shaping (front edge).
On RS rows, dec 1 st at neck edge every other row 4 times (use ssk or k2tog depending on side). (9 sts remain)
Work 2 rows even, then BO for shoulder. Repeat for second front, mirroring shaping.
Sleeves (Make 2)
The sleeves are gray with a centered hydrangea panel. You can do this as simple stranded colorwork with short floats, or knit plain and add duplicate stitch later. Duplicate stitch is easiest and keeps the inside clean.
CO 18 sts in gray.
Rows 1–4: 2×2 rib.
Rows 5–22: stst, increasing 1 st each side every 6th row twice. (22 sts)
Rows 23–30: stst even. BO.
Hydrangea Sleeve Panel (Duplicate Stitch Option)
On each sleeve, mark a centered area about 8 sts wide by 10 rows tall. Using periwinkle, sky blue, lilac, and deep violet, stitch small clustered “petal dots” to form a rounded hydrangea bloom on the outer upper sleeve. Add 1–2 tiny green stitches at the lower edge for leaf hints.
- Placement: Center the bloom so it is visible from the front, matching the photo’s sleeve motif placement.
- Color balance: Use more blues toward the top and more lilac/violet toward the bottom for a natural look.
- Keep it soft: Avoid harsh outlines; let the colors blend like petals.
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Lavender Scallop Trim (Front Edges and Hem)
With lavender yarn and US 2 needles, pick up sts evenly along the cardigan front edge, around neck, and down the other front. Work 1 row purl (WS). Then work scallop:
Next row (RS): *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2* repeat to end.
WS: purl.
BO loosely knitwise. Repeat along bottom hem and sleeve cuffs if you want the full lavender outline seen in the photo.
Tip: If your scallops look too sharp, block lightly with steam and pat the edge into rounded waves.
Cardigan Assembly
- Sew shoulders of cardigan fronts to back.
- Sew sleeves into armholes, aligning centers.
- Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
- Try on bunny to confirm the cardigan closes comfortably without pulling.
Shoes with Lavender Ribbon Bows (Make 2)
The shoes are lavender, rounded, and slightly puffy, with a neat opening to slip onto the feet. The satin ribbon is tied in a bow at the front, exactly as shown.
Shoe
Using lavender and US 3 needles, CO 24 sts.
Rows 1–6: stst.
Shape toe.
Row 7 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (22)
Row 8: purl.
Row 9: k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (20)
Row 10: purl.
Work 6 rows stst. BO loosely.
Fold shoe, seam toe and sole edges, leaving an opening for ankle. Slip onto bunny foot and tack a few stitches under the foot to keep it in place.
Ribbon Bows
Cut two 10–12 in (25–30 cm) lengths of lavender satin ribbon. Seal ends carefully. Tie each ribbon into a neat bow and stitch through the center knot to the shoe front. Keep bows centered and low, matching the photo.
Wide-Brim Hydrangea Hat
The hat is straw-tan with a firm brim. The crown sits low enough that the ears fall out from under the brim. Work tightly and consider using the smaller needle for the brim to help it hold shape.
Hat Crown (in the round)
Using straw-tan and US 3 (or US 2 for firmer fabric), CO 72 sts. Join in the round, pm for start.
Rounds 1–6: *k1, p1* rib.
Rounds 7–18: knit all rounds.
Decrease slightly to hug the head.
Round 19: k6, k2tog around. (63)
Rounds 20–22: knit.
Brim
Increase to create a wide brim with a soft curve.
Round 23: *k3, m1R* around. (84)
Round 24: knit.
Round 25: *k4, m1R* around. (100 approx; adjust so increases are even.)
Rounds 26–30: knit.
For a sturdier edge, switch to US 2 needles for final rounds.
Rounds 31–33: knit.
BO loosely. Block brim flat, shaping into a gentle downward curve.
Hydrangea Flower Crown (for Hat)
The crown uses clustered mini blossoms in blue and purple, plus small green leaves. Arrange blossoms as a band across the front-top of the hat, like in the photo, not all the way around.
Mini Blossom (Make 18–26)
Choose sky blue, periwinkle, lilac, and deep violet randomly. Each blossom is a tiny bobble cluster.
CO 4 sts. Work i-cord for 2 rounds (k all, slide, repeat). Then:
Next: kfb in each st (8). Next: purl. Next: (k2tog) across (4). Cut yarn, thread through 4 sts, pull tight to form a nub. This makes a rounded bud.
Make more in blues than purples, but include enough purple to match the hat flowers seen in the image.
Leaves (Make 6–10)
Using green, CO 6 sts.
Row 1 (WS): purl.
Row 2 (RS): k1, m1R, k4, m1L, k1. (8)
Row 3: purl.
Row 4: k2, m1R, k4, m1L, k2. (10)
Row 5: purl.
Row 6: k2tog, k6, ssk. (8)
Row 7: purl.
Row 8: k2tog, k4, ssk. (6)
Row 9: purl.
Row 10: k2tog, k2, ssk. (4)
Row 11: purl.
Row 12: k2tog twice. (2)
Cut yarn, pull through 2 sts. Flatten leaf and add a simple center vein with one straight stitch.
Attach Crown to Hat
Pin blossoms in a dense cluster across the front half of the crown, mixing blues and purples. Tuck leaves beneath and between blossoms. Sew each blossom firmly with small stitches, catching only the underside so thread does not show. Ensure the cluster sits centered and slightly forward, as shown.
Prop: Drawstring Pouch with Ribbon
The pouch sits on the table in the photo, in soft gray-to-lilac tones with a lavender ribbon tie. Make it simple so it photographs well and complements the outfit.
Pouch
Using soft gray (or a pale lavender-gray) and US 3 needles, CO 36 sts. Join in the round or knit flat and seam.
Work 10 rounds stst. Next round: *k2, yo, k2tog* repeat for eyelets. Next 10 rounds stst. BO.
Thread lavender ribbon through eyelets, tie in a bow. For the gathered top, gently pull ribbon and tie securely. Add a small tassel if desired, but keep it minimal to match the clean styling.
Prop: Hydrangea Sprig (Loose Blossom Cluster)
This is the small hydrangea piece on the table, separate from the hat. Use the same mini blossoms and leaves, but cluster them into a flatter bloom with a few leaves peeking out.
- Make 10–14 mini blossoms in mixed blues and purples.
- Make 3–5 leaves in green.
- Sew blossoms together into a round cluster, then stitch leaves under the edges.
- Lightly shape with your fingers so it looks like a flower head rather than a ball.
Prop: Lace Handkerchief (White)
The photo shows a small white square with a lace-like edge. Knit a tiny square and add a simple eyelet border for a delicate look.
Handkerchief
Using white yarn and US 2 needles, CO 22 sts.
Rows 1–18: g-st (knit every row).
Border row (RS): *k2, yo, k2tog* repeat across. Knit 2 rows g-st. BO loosely.
Block into a neat square. If you want a deeper lace edge, pick up around and work one more eyelet round, but keep it small as shown.
Prop: Wrapped Candy
The candy is a small striped oval with twisted ends in hydrangea colors. Knit a tiny tube, stuff lightly, then cinch ends with contrasting yarn.
Candy Center
Using periwinkle and lilac stripes (change color every 2 rows), CO 16 sts. Work 10 rows stst. Seam into a tube, stuff lightly, and close ends with tight gathering stitches.
Twist Ends
Cut two small rectangles of knit fabric (or i-cord pieces) in sky blue and lilac. Wrap each end and stitch tightly, pinching into a “twist.” Keep ends short and cute, matching the photo.
Tiny Bear Friend
The small bear is brown with a simple cream dress. The bear’s face is minimal: small dark eyes and a stitched nose/mouth. Keep proportions chubby and sweet so it complements the bunny rather than competing with it.
Bear Head
Using brown, CO 24 sts.
Work 10 rows stst.
Decrease: k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2 (repeat this RS row every other row 3 times). Pull remaining sts tight, seam, stuff, close bottom.
Bear Body
CO 22 sts in brown. Work 4 rows g-st for a firm base, then 10 rows stst. BO. Seam into a tube, gather bottom, stuff, and close top. Sew head to body.
Bear Arms and Legs
Arms: CO 10 sts, work 8 rows stst, close into tubes, stuff lightly, sew to sides.
Legs: CO 10 sts, work 10 rows stst, gather toe slightly, seam, stuff, sew under body for a seated pose.
Bear Ears
CO 6 sts, work 6 rows g-st, gather into a half-moon, sew to head top sides.
Bear Dress
Using cream, CO 24 sts. Work 2×2 rib for 4 rows. Then stst for 10 rows. Create a gentle flounce: increase 1 st each side every 4th row twice. BO loosely. Seam back, slide onto bear, tack at shoulders so it stays put.
Bear Face
- Eyes: tiny black French knots or small safety eyes.
- Nose: stitch a small triangle or short vertical line, then add a tiny “Y” mouth.
Dressing the Bunny (Order Matters)
To match the photo exactly, dress the bunny so layers sit cleanly and edges are visible.
- Put the dress on first. Align the bobble band so it sits low and full, with scallops evenly spaced.
- Add the cardigan. Ensure the lavender trim frames the front opening, and sleeve motifs sit on the outer arms.
- Slip on the shoes and tack under the feet if needed. Add lavender ribbon bows centered.
- Place the hat last, positioning it low so the brim frames the face while the ears drape beneath.
- Set the bear and props around the bunny: pouch left, hydrangea sprig front-left, handkerchief center-front, candy front-right.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Before closing any final seams, check that the head sits straight and the eyes are level. Stitch the head to the body with a strong circular seam, then add extra anchoring stitches from the back of the head into the upper body to prevent wobble. Embroider the nose and mouth last so placement matches the final head angle.
Care Notes
Display items away from direct sunlight to prevent fading of the hydrangea colors. Gentle surface cleaning is best. Avoid heavy pulling on bobbles and scalloped edges. Keep small parts away from children if you used safety eyes or ribbons that could loosen.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- All seams tight, with stuffing fully concealed
- Head secured with extra anchoring stitches
- Eyes aligned and facial stitches centered
- Dress bobble band evenly spaced and scallops blocked
- Cardigan trim smooth and not puckering
- Hat brim shaped and flower crown firmly sewn
- Ribbons stitched through bow centers so they stay put
- Props neatly finished with ends woven in
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
For dust, use a soft makeup brush or lint roller on low tack, avoiding snagging bobbles. For light soil, spot clean with cool water and a tiny drop of mild soap, then blot with a towel. Reshape while damp and air dry flat. Store in a breathable cotton bag with tissue support under the hat brim and skirt scallops to maintain the silhouette.
