Yarrow Meadow Blouse Bunny – Crochet

This heirloom-style bunny doll is dressed for a sunny meadow stroll, with a ruffled blouse collar, puff sleeves, and a softly pleated skirt trimmed in tiny yarrow blooms. If you’re shopping for cotton yarn, safety eyes, and the best amigurumi stuffing, this project uses simple supplies in a very polished way.

The set includes the main bunny, a small companion lamb, a woven-look basket, plus a little bouquet on a lacey mat. If you like comparing ergonomic crochet hooks, choosing the right DK weight yarn, or building a amigurumi kit for gifting, you’ll enjoy how many charming pieces come from the same yarn palette.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

You will make a standing bunny (about 10–12 in / 25–30 cm tall, depending on yarn and tension) wearing a cream blouse-and-skirt dress, a yarrow-flower headband, and simple shoes with tiny bows. The bunny holds a small basket. A mini lamb friend (about 4–5 in / 10–13 cm) wears a matching bonnet and skirt.

The “yarrow” look comes from clustered bobbles and tiny puff flowers in mustard yellow and soft white. The skirt hem has alternating flower clusters that resemble the photo. The bouquet and doily-mat are optional, but included so the whole scene matches.

Skill Level

• Confident beginner to intermediate (amigurumi shaping + garment details)
• Techniques include invisible decreases, bobbles/puffs, simple seaming, and light embroidery

Finished Sizes

• Main bunny: 10–12 in (25–30 cm) tall when standing
• Mini lamb: 4–5 in (10–13 cm) tall
• Basket: 2–2.5 in (5–6.5 cm) wide
• Doily mat: about 3.5 in (9 cm) across

Materials

• Yarn (DK or light worsted):
  • Main color (MC): warm cream
  • Accent A: tan/beige (basket + bows + lamb skirt)
  • Accent B: soft white (yarrow + trims)
  • Accent C: mustard yellow (yarrow)
  • Optional: light green (tiny leaves/stems)
• Hook: 2.5–3.25 mm (choose the size that makes tight stitches)
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes: 8–10 mm for bunny, 5–6 mm for lamb
• Embroidery thread: brown/tan for nose and mouth (or use thin yarn)
• Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors, pins
• Optional: thin floral wire or pipe cleaner (for basket handle firmness)

Gauge and Tension

Gauge is not critical, but tension is. Your stitches must be firm enough that stuffing does not show through. If your fabric feels loose, use a smaller hook. If your fabric is very stiff and hard to insert the hook, go up a size.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• blo = back loop only
• flo = front loop only
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• ( ) = repeat instructions in parentheses
• [ ] = stitch count at end of round

Special Stitches

Belly Bobble (for skirt hem + yarrow clusters)

Bobble: (yo, insert hook, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2) repeated 4 times in the same stitch, yo, pull through all loops. Secure with a ch 1 (counts as part of bobble structure, not a stitch in the round unless stated).

Mini Puff Flower (tiny yarrow blossoms)

Into same stitch: (yo, insert, pull up loop) x3, yo, pull through all loops, ch 2, sl st into same base. This makes a tiny puff with a little “petal” lift. Use white for the small blossoms.

Scallop Edge (collar + doily)

Typical scallop: sl st, (5 dc in next st), sl st in next st. Adjust count as needed to fit your edge cleanly.

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Construction Notes

• The bunny is worked mostly in continuous rounds unless told otherwise.
• Use a stitch marker to track the first stitch of each round.
• Stuff firmly but do not overstuff the neck and arms (keep them soft and poseable).
• All clothing is designed to match the photo: ruffled collar, puff sleeves with lace trim, pleated skirt, and flower hem.

Main Bunny: Head

Work in MC (cream). Stuff as you go. Keep stitches tight and even so the face stays smooth.

Round-by-Round

1. R1: MR, 6 sc [6]
2. R2: inc x6 [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]
9. R9–R16: sc around [48]

Place safety eyes between R12 and R13, about 8–9 stitches apart. In the photo, the eyes are small and softly spaced, giving a gentle expression.

1. R17: (6 sc, dec) x6 [42]
2. R18: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]
3. R19: (4 sc, dec) x6 [30]
4. R20: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]
5. R21: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]
6. R22: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
7. Stuff firmly, shaping a slightly oval face.
8. R23: dec x6 [6]

Fasten off. Close the opening neatly and hide the tail.

Main Bunny: Muzzle + Nose Shape (to match the photo)

The nose area in the photo is subtle: a small triangular nose with a short center line and a soft “Y” mouth. We will create a gentle snout by embroidering and lightly sculpting.

• Thread a long strand of tan or brown embroidery floss.
• Insert needle under one eye and exit at the center of the face (about 1–2 rounds below the eyes).
• Make a small triangle nose: 3 short stitches forming a tiny outline, then fill with 2–3 passes.
• Stitch a short vertical line down 2–3 mm.
• Stitch a small “Y” mouth: two short curves angled down left and right.

For slight shaping, pass the thread from the mouth area to the back of the head and tighten gently, then knot securely inside the head.

Main Bunny: Ears (make 2)

Work in MC. The ears are long, soft, and hang down to shoulder level like the photo.

1. R1: MR, 6 sc [6]
2. R2: inc x6 [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. R4–R6: sc around [18]
5. R7: (4 sc, dec) x3 [15]
6. R8–R15: sc around [15]
7. R16: (3 sc, dec) x3 [12]
8. R17–R22: sc around [12]

Do not stuff the ears; keep them flat and drapey. Fold the opening and sc across to close (6 sc). Leave a long tail for sewing.

Main Bunny: Arms (make 2)

Work in MC. Arms are slim with a gentle curve and end just above the skirt line in the photo.

1. R1: MR, 6 sc [6]
2. R2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
3. R3–R5: sc around [9]
4. R6: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]
5. R7–R18: sc around [12]

Lightly stuff the lower half so the hands stay rounded but the upper arm remains soft. Flatten the top and sc across to close (6 sc). Leave a long tail for sewing.

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Main Bunny: Legs (make 2)

Work in MC. The bunny stands with sturdy legs and rounded feet as shown. Stuff firmly for stability.

1. R1: MR, 6 sc [6]
2. R2: inc x6 [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
5. R5: sc around [24]
6. R6: blo sc around [24]
7. R7: sc around [24]
8. R8: (6 sc, dec) x3 [21]
9. R9: sc around [21]
10. R10: (5 sc, dec) x3 [18]
11. R11–R16: sc around [18]
12. R17: (2 sc, dec) x4, 2 sc [14]
13. R18–R22: sc around [14]

Stuff firmly, especially the foot. Flatten the top and sc across to close (7 sc). Leave a long tail for sewing. Make the second leg the same, but do not fasten off if you prefer joining directly for the body.

Main Bunny: Body (torso)

Work in MC. The body is slightly tapered at the waist to fit the dress bodice cleanly. Join legs so the bunny stands straight.

Join Legs

Place legs side by side with toes pointing forward. With yarn attached to the second leg, sc across the first leg’s closing stitches to join, then continue around both legs.

1. R1: sc around both legs, placing 1 sc in each stitch around. Add 1–2 sc at the join if you see a gap. Aim for [28–30].

If you got 28 stitches, follow the 28-st version below. If you got 30, keep rounds similar but maintain the shaping proportions. The goal is a neat waist and rounded chest.

Body Rounds (target 28 sts)

1. R2: (6 sc, inc) x4 [32]
2. R3–R6: sc around [32]
3. R7: (6 sc, dec) x4 [28]
4. R8–R10: sc around [28]
5. R11: (5 sc, dec) x4 [24]
6. R12–R13: sc around [24]
7. R14: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
8. R15–R17: sc around [30]
9. R18: (4 sc, dec) x5 [25]
10. R19: sc around [25]
11. R20: (3 sc, dec) x5 [20]

Stuff the body firmly, keeping the front smooth. The chest should be gently rounded and the waist slightly narrower to hold the dress shape.

1. R21: sc around [20]
2. R22: (2 sc, dec) x5 [15]
3. R23: sc around [15]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing head to body.

Attaching Head and Ears

Pin the head to the body so the face looks forward and centered. Sew with small whip stitches all around. Add a bit more stuffing through the neck opening right before closing if needed. The neck should be firm enough to support the head without wobbling.

For ears, place them slightly behind the sides of the head so they drape forward like the photo. Sew the top seam of each ear to the head, anchoring the front and back edges firmly so they do not twist.

Dress: Blouse Bodice

The dress is worked in MC and is designed to look like a blouse-and-skirt set. The bodice sits close to the torso and ends at the waist. Work in joined rounds for a neat seam if you prefer, but continuous rounds also work.

Bodice Base

With MC, start at the waist area. You can crochet the dress directly onto the bunny by working around the body, or make it separately and slip it on. For the most accurate fit, make it separately and test as you go.

1. Ch 34 (or enough to wrap around the widest part of the chest with slight stretch). Join with sl st, careful not to twist.
2. R1: ch 1, sc around, join [34]
3. R2–R6: ch 1, sc around, join [34]

If the bodice feels loose, reduce the starting chain by 2. If it feels too tight to slide over the head, add 2. The photo bodice is smooth and fitted, not baggy.

Armhole Setup

We’ll create small arm openings by skipping stitches at the sides, then continue around the top edge. Mark the two side points (underarm) equally.

1. R7: ch 1, sc 10, ch 4, skip 4, sc 16, ch 4, skip 4, sc 6, join.
2. R8: ch 1, sc around, placing 4 sc into each ch-4 space, join.
3. R9: ch 1, sc around, join.

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Dress: Puff Sleeves (make 2, worked into armholes)

Attach MC yarn at an underarm point. The sleeves in the photo are rounded and slightly puffy, ending with a lacy ruffle cuff.

1. R1: sc evenly around armhole. Aim for 18–20 sc total. Join.
2. R2: ch 1, (sc, inc) around to create gentle puff. Join (about 24 sts).
3. R3–R4: ch 1, sc around, join.
4. R5: ch 1, (2 sc, dec) around to taper slightly. Join (about 18 sts).
5. R6: ch 1, sc around, join.

Sleeve Lace Cuff (photo-matching ruffle)

Switch to soft white (Accent B) for the cuff edge. This gives the crisp lace look seen at the sleeve ends.

1. R7: with white, ch 1, sc around, join.
2. R8: ch 1, (sl st in next st, 5 dc in next st) repeat around, join.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Dress: Ruffled Collar with Tie

The collar in the photo is a wide ruffle framing the neck, with a neat tie bow at the center. Work the collar separately in soft white, then sew it to the neckline of the bodice.

Collar Band

1. With white, ch 36 (or enough to circle the neckline with a small overlap).
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across [35]. ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: sc across [35]. ch 1, turn.

Ruffle Edge

Along one long edge of the band, work an increase-heavy row to create a soft wave like the photo.

1. Row 3: (sc, inc) across the edge (about 52 sts). ch 1, turn.
2. Row 4: (2 sc, inc) across (about 69 sts). Do not turn.

Scallop Finish

1. Along the ruffle edge: sl st in 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sl st in next st. Repeat to end.

Ties (make 2)

• With white, ch 40 for each tie.
• Sl st back along the chain to firm it slightly.
• Sew one tie to each end of the collar band.

Sew the collar band around the neckline. Keep the ruffle facing outward and centered. Tie the bow at the front, as shown in the photo.

Dress: Skirt (pleated look)

The skirt is worked from the bodice waist downward. The photo shows gentle “pleats,” which we mimic using spaced increases and vertical accent lines created by occasional blo rounds.

Join Skirt to Bodice

Attach MC at the bodice waist edge. Work in joined rounds for a clean horizontal look.

1. R1: ch 1, sc around [34]. Join.
2. R2: ch 1, (2 sc, inc) around [45]. Join.
3. R3: ch 1, sc around [45]. Join.
4. R4: ch 1, (3 sc, inc) around [56]. Join.
5. R5: ch 1, sc around [56]. Join.

Pleat Definition

Work a few rounds alternating normal sc and blo sc. The blo rounds create subtle vertical channels that read as pleats in photos.

1. R6: ch 1, blo sc around [56]. Join.
2. R7: ch 1, sc around [56]. Join.
3. R8: ch 1, blo sc around [56]. Join.
4. R9–R12: ch 1, sc around [56]. Join each round.

Skirt Flare

Add a final gentle flare so the skirt sits away from the legs, matching the A-line shape in the photo.

1. R13: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) around [64]. Join.
2. R14–R16: ch 1, sc around [64]. Join.

Skirt Hem: Scallop + Yarrow Bloom Trim

The hem is the signature detail: a scalloped cream edge, with alternating bobble “blooms” in white and mustard, plus tiny green touches if desired. The photo shows a soft row of puff-like blossoms all around.

Hem Scallop (MC)

1. R17: ch 1, sc around [64]. Join.
2. R18: ch 1, (sl st in next st, 5 dc in next st) repeat around. Join.

Bloom Row (attached just above scallop)

Turn the skirt so you can work into the round just above the scallops (R17). Attach yarn to any stitch of R17.

1. Bloom Round: *sc in next st, bobble in next st, sc in next st, bobble in next st* repeat around.

Alternate colors every 2 bobbles to mimic the mixed yarrow clusters in the photo. For example: 2 bobbles in soft white, switch to mustard for 2 bobbles, repeat. Keep color changes clean by switching on the last yarn-over of the sc before the bobble.

If you want a more “clustered yarrow” look, add a tiny white puff flower beside some mustard bobbles. Place the mini puff into the stitch next to a mustard bobble every 6–8 stitches.

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Yarrow Hip Corsage (small flower cluster)

The dress has a small yarrow cluster at the waist/hip area in the photo. Make a compact piece that sits flat and sew it to the skirt front-right area (as viewed in the image).

Corsage Base

1. With mustard, MR, 5 sc. Join with sl st.
2. Into each stitch: bobble, sl st to next. Repeat 5 times. Fasten off, leaving tail.

Add White Blossoms

• With soft white, attach between two mustard bobbles.
• Work 2–3 mini puff flowers around one side of the cluster.
• Fasten off and weave ends to the back.

Sew the corsage to the skirt at the waistline, slightly off-center, matching the photo placement.

Headband Base

The bunny wears a wide headband that sits like a soft hood band, with yarrow clusters on both sides. Work the band in MC so it blends with the head and frames the face.

1. With MC, ch 46 (or enough to wrap around the head above the eyes and under the ears).
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across. ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2–Row 5: sc across. ch 1, turn.

Wrap the band around the head so the seam is at the back. Sew ends together neatly. The band should be snug but not tight, and it should sit just above the eyes like the photo.

Yarrow Side Clusters (make 2 large clusters)

Each side cluster is a mix of mustard bobbles and small white puffs, resembling yarrow heads. Make two pieces and sew them symmetrically on the headband, one on each side near the top.

Mustard Cluster

1. With mustard, MR, 6 sc. Join.
2. Round 2: *bobble in next st, sl st in next* repeat around (3 bobbles total). Fasten off.

White Blossom Cluster

1. With soft white, MR, 6 sc. Join.
2. Round 2: place a mini puff flower into each stitch (6 puffs). Fasten off.

Combine and Shape

• Layer white cluster slightly under mustard cluster so both colors show.
• Add 1 extra mustard bobble piece if you want more fullness on top.
• Sew clusters to the headband on each side, positioned like the photo “ear-top flowers.”

Shoes (make 2)

The shoes are cream, simple and rounded, with tiny tan bows on the outer sides like the photo. Make firm soles so the bunny stands well.

Shoe Base (MC)

1. Ch 8.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, sc 5 on underside, 2 sc in last st. Join. [16]
3. R2: ch 1, inc, sc 5, inc x3, sc 5, inc x2. Join. [24]
4. R3: ch 1, blo sc around. Join. [24]
5. R4: ch 1, sc around. Join. [24]
6. R5: ch 1, (6 sc, dec) x3. Join. [21]
7. R6: ch 1, sc around. Join. [21]

Lightly stuff the toe area only. Slip the shoe onto the foot and adjust by adding/removing a round if needed. Fasten off leaving a tail to stitch the shoe to the foot so it stays in place.

Tiny Bow (make 2, tan)

• With tan, ch 18.
• Sl st back along the chain to thicken slightly.
• Form a bow by folding ends to the center and wrapping with a small strand 4–5 times.
• Sew bow onto the outer side of each shoe.

Basket (woven look)

The basket in the photo is tan with a lighter rim and a firm handle. Work the bowl in tan, then add a cream rim and handle accents.

Basket Bowl (tan)

1. R1: MR, 6 sc [6]
2. R2: inc x6 [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
5. R5: blo sc around [24]
6. R6–R8: sc around [24]
7. R9: (3 sc, dec) x6 [18]
8. R10: sc around [18]

Do not stuff. The basket should stay hollow. Fasten off.

Basket Rim (cream)

• Attach cream at the top edge.
• Work 1 round sc around.
• Optional: a second round of sc in blo for a clean lip.

Handle

1. With tan, ch 22 (adjust to match photo scale).
2. Sc in 2nd ch and across [21]. ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: sc across [21].

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If you want a firmer handle, insert a thin pipe cleaner inside and fold the crochet strip around it. Sew handle ends to opposite sides of the basket rim. Add a small cream wrap at the center of the handle for a two-tone detail if desired.

Mini Lamb Companion

The tiny companion looks like a lamb (or very small plush friend) with a soft bonnet and a simple skirt. Use the same palette so it matches the main bunny.

Lamb Head (light beige/grey-tan)

1. R1: MR, 6 sc [6]
2. R2: inc x6 [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
5. R5–R8: sc around [24]

Place 5–6 mm safety eyes between R7 and R8, about 5–6 stitches apart. Embroider a tiny triangular nose and short mouth line, similar to the main bunny but smaller.

1. R9: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]
2. R10: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
3. Stuff firmly.
4. R11: dec x6 [6]

Fasten off and close.

Lamb Ears (make 2, cream or beige)

1. R1: MR, 5 sc [5]
2. R2: (sc, inc) repeat around [8]
3. R3–R4: sc around [8]

Flatten and sew to the sides of the head, slightly lower than the eyes so the bonnet can frame them neatly.

Lamb Body (cream top + tan skirt look)

Start in cream for the blouse portion.

1. R1: MR, 6 sc [6]
2. R2: inc x6 [12]
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
4. R4–R6: sc around [18]

Switch to tan for the skirt portion.

1. R7: with tan, blo sc around [18]
2. R8: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
3. R9–R10: sc around [24]
4. R11: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
5. R12: sc around [30]

Stuff lightly so the body stays upright. Fasten off leaving a tail to sew head to body.

Lamb Arms (optional, make 2)

The photo companion looks very small, so simple nub arms work best.

1. R1: MR, 5 sc [5]
2. R2–R3: sc around [5]

Lightly stuff. Sew to the sides of the body just under the head.

Lamb Bonnet (white with ruffle)

1. With soft white, ch 16.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across [15]. ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: inc, sc 13, inc [17]. ch 1, turn.
4. Row 3: inc, sc 15, inc [19].

Curve the bonnet by working one more row with increases at the ends if needed. Test-fit over the lamb head so it frames the face.

Bonnet Ruffle and Ties

• Along the face edge: work (sl st, 5 dc, sl st) repeating to create a tiny scallop.
• Ties: ch 25 twice and sl st back along each chain.
• Sew ties to the lower corners of the bonnet and tie under the chin.

Bouquet and Doily Mat (photo accessories)

The small bouquet sits on a lacey mat in the photo. This is a quick detail that makes the scene feel complete. Keep stitches neat because it will be seen up close.

Doily Mat (cream)

1. R1: MR, ch 1, 12 dc into ring. Join.
2. R2: ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join.
3. R3: ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in first st, sc in next st. Repeat around to create a lightly lacy circle.
4. R4: scallop edge: sl st, 5 dc, sl st repeating around.

Fasten off and block flat with a little steam if desired (keep heat low and avoid direct contact).

Yarrow Bouquet (mustard + white + optional green)

• Make 6–8 mustard bobble “heads”: MR, 4 sc; then bobble in each st, fasten off.
• Make 6–10 white mini puff blossoms using the mini puff flower stitch.
• Optional stems: ch 10 in green, sl st back.
• Bundle pieces together and wrap with a small strand of cream or green yarn.

Place the bouquet on the doily mat. If you want it to stay fixed, tack it with a few small stitches.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew arms to the body just below the collar line, angled slightly forward so the basket can sit naturally in one hand. Stitch the dress to the body at the waist with a few hidden tacks so it does not shift. Add the headband and sew it in place behind the ears.

Confirm the face: eyes level, nose centered, and mouth subtle. If you want the same gentle look as the photo, keep the mouth embroidery very short and avoid heavy outlines. Lightly sculpt the cheeks by passing thread from the cheek area to the back and tightening gently.

Care Notes

For best results, spot-clean with mild soap and cool water. Press between towels to remove moisture, then air-dry fully. Avoid soaking the doll for long periods, especially if you used wire in the basket handle. Keep away from high heat and direct sunlight to protect the light yarn colors.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes are locked securely and sit evenly on the head.
• Head is firmly attached with no wobble at the neck.
• Dress hem blooms alternate in color and look evenly spaced.
• Collar ruffle sits flat and ties form a neat bow at center front.
• Shoes are stitched on so the bunny stands steady.
• Headband flowers are symmetrical on both sides.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust gently with a soft brush. If you need deeper cleaning, use a damp cloth with a tiny amount of gentle detergent, then wipe again with clean water. Air-dry on a towel and reshape the collar and skirt while damp. Store in a breathable cotton bag, away from humidity, to keep the yarrow trims crisp.