Echinops Powder Pom-Beret Bunny – Crochet

This charming amigurumi bunny doll is dressed for a cozy day out, complete with a powder-blue pom beret, a soft cream jacket, and a twirly blue dress trimmed with plush bobbles. If you love making handmade dolls, this project is a satisfying build with beautiful, giftable details.

You can pair this design with shopping-friendly supplies like a crochet hook set, cotton yarn bundle, safety eyes, polyester fiberfill, and an amigurumi accessories kit. The set also includes a tiny bear friend plus picnic props, perfect for collectors and anyone searching for a unique handmade gift.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Main bunny: about 11–13 in (28–33 cm) tall when seated as shown, depending on yarn and tension.
Mini bear: about 4–5 in (10–13 cm) tall.
Props: sized to match the photo scale (bag, popcorn cup, ticket).

Materials

• Sport/DK weight yarn (or light worsted with tighter tension) in these colors:
  • Beige/tan for bunny skin
  • Powder blue for beret, dress, shoes, and mini bear accents
  • Cream/off-white for jacket and mini bear jacket
  • Medium brown for mini bear body
  • Small amounts: black (nose/face), red (popcorn stripes), pale yellow (popcorn), and a touch of neutral tan (bag trim if desired)
• Crochet hook: 2.25–3.0 mm (choose smaller than yarn label for tight fabric)
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Safety eyes: 10–12 mm for bunny, 6–8 mm for mini bear (or embroider)
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
• Optional: thin plastic canvas/foam sheet for shoe soles and bag base
• Optional: small buttons/snaps (or sew-on faux button)

Stitches and Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• dec = invisible decrease (sc2tog)
• sl st = slip stitch
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• blo = back loop only
• flo = front loop only
• bobble = 4–5 dc bobble (explained below)

Important Notes for an Accurate Look

Work in continuous rounds unless noted. Use a stitch marker to track round starts. Keep stitches tight so stuffing does not show through. The photo look is smooth with small, even sc rows, plus crisp clothing edges. Stuff firmly but do not overstuff the head and jacket, or the silhouette will lose its gentle curves.

The bunny’s expression is minimal: wide set black eyes and a tiny stitched “V” mouth. Ears hang long and soft along the sides. The dress is powder blue with a structured bodice and a flared skirt finished with a row of round bobbles to mimic echinops-like pom texture along the hem.

Special Techniques

Invisible Decrease

Insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then front loop of following stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through remaining loops.

Bobble Stitch (Plush Hem Poms)

In the indicated stitch, work 5 incomplete dc into the same stitch (each time: yarn over, insert, pull up loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, stop). When you have 6 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all loops. Secure with a small ch 1 if needed so bobbles pop outward.

Color Guide

• A = Beige/Tan (bunny skin)
• B = Powder Blue (beret/dress/shoes)
• C = Cream/Off-white (jacket)
• D = Brown (mini bear body)
• E = Black (face details)
• F = Red and White (popcorn cup)
• G = Pale Yellow (popcorn)

Main Bunny Doll

Head (A)

The head is a smooth oval sphere with gentle cheeks. Place eyes slightly below center and fairly wide apart to match the cute, calm look in the photo. Begin stuffing as you go, keeping the front slightly fuller than the back for a sweet face curve.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) around (42)
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) around (48)
9. R9–R16: sc around (48)
10. R17: (6 sc, dec) around (42)
11. R18: (5 sc, dec) around (36)
12. R19: (4 sc, dec) around (30)
13. Insert safety eyes between R12 and R13, about 10–11 stitches apart. Add a tiny nose line with E between eyes, one round below.
14. R20: (3 sc, dec) around (24)
15. R21: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
16. Stuff firmly, shaping cheeks and smoothing the face.
17. R22: (sc, dec) around (12)
18. R23: dec around (6)
19. Fasten off and close. Weave in end.

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Ears (make 2, A)

These are long, softly tapered ears that hang down beside the head. The photo shows ears in the same beige as the face, with no inner ear color. Keep them lightly stuffed only at the base, leaving most of the ear flat so it drapes naturally.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) around (9)
3. R3: sc around (9)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around (12)
5. R5: sc around (12)
6. R6: (3 sc, inc) around (15)
7. R7–R10: sc around (15)
8. R11: (4 sc, inc) around (18)
9. R12–R22: sc around (18)
10. R23: (4 sc, dec) around (15)
11. R24–R33: sc around (15)
12. R34: (3 sc, dec) around (12)
13. R35–R38: sc around (12)
14. R39: (2 sc, dec) around (9)
15. R40–R43: sc around (9)
16. Flatten top opening and sc across through both layers (about 4–5 sc) to close the top seam for sewing.
17. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Body (A)

The body is a simple tapered torso that supports the dress. The photo shows the neck hidden under clothing, so the top can be slightly narrower. Stuff firmly so the doll sits nicely and the dress drapes smoothly.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
7. R7–R10: sc around (36)
8. R11: (4 sc, dec) around (30)
9. R12–R14: sc around (30)
10. R15: (3 sc, dec) around (24)
11. R16–R18: sc around (24)
12. R19: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
13. R20–R22: sc around (18)
14. Begin stuffing, keeping sides smooth.
15. R23: (sc, dec) around (12)
16. R24–R25: sc around (12)
17. Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching head.

Arms (make 2, A)

Arms are slender with small hands. In the photo, the jacket sleeves cover much of the arm, so keep the arm shape simple and smooth. Stuff lightly, especially near the hand, so the arm stays flexible and can hold the mini bear hand.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) around (9)
3. R3–R5: sc around (9)
4. R6: (2 sc, dec) around (6)
5. R7–R18: sc around (6)
6. Lightly stuff the hand and lower arm.
7. Flatten opening and sc across to close (3 sc).
8. Fasten off leaving a long tail.

Legs (make 2, A)

The bunny has long, straight legs with a neat look under the dress. Shoes are added separately in blue, so keep the leg ends flat and stable. Stuff firmly so the doll can sit and the shoes keep their shape.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4–R6: sc around (18)
5. R7: (sc, dec) around (12)
6. R8–R26: sc around (12)
7. Stuff firmly, especially the ankle area for stability.
8. Flatten opening and sc across to close (6 sc).
9. Fasten off leaving a long tail.

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Outfit: Powder Blue Dress (B)

The dress has a textured bodice and a flared skirt. The neckline is simple and sits under the jacket. The most recognizable photo detail is the row of round bobbles around the hem, spaced evenly so it looks like soft pom trim.

Dress Bodice (B)

Work from the top down. This bodice uses sc rows to keep it structured. Try it on the body as you go. The bodice should fit snugly, with the skirt starting around the bunny waist/upper hips. Keep the seam centered at the back to match the clean front shown.

1. Ch 36, join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist (36)
2. R1: ch 1, sc around (36)
3. R2–R5: sc around (36)
4. R6: (5 sc, inc) around (42)
5. R7–R9: sc around (42)
6. R10: (6 sc, inc) around (48)
7. R11: sc around (48)

Skirt (B)

The skirt flares steadily so it sits like a gentle bell shape. Use dc rounds for drape and a faster flare. If your yarn is heavier, reduce increases slightly so the skirt does not become too wide. The photo shows a balanced flare with a neat hem and evenly spaced bobbles.

1. R12: ch 2, dc around (48)
2. R13: (7 dc, inc-dc) around (54)
3. R14: dc around (54)
4. R15: (8 dc, inc-dc) around (60)
5. R16: dc around (60)
6. R17: (9 dc, inc-dc) around (66)
7. R18: dc around (66)
8. R19: (10 dc, inc-dc) around (72)
9. R20–R22: dc around (72)

Hem with Echinops Bobble Trim (B)

To match the photo, make bobbles sit outward and slightly downward along the edge. Space bobbles evenly, leaving a few stitches between them so they look like separate puffs, not a continuous ruffle. If bobbles curl inward, add a securing ch 1 after each bobble.

1. R23: sc around (72)
2. R24 (Bobble Round): *(2 sc, bobble, 2 sc)* repeat around, adjusting spacing so bobbles distribute evenly (aim for 16–20 bobbles)
3. R25: sc around, working behind bobbles where possible to stabilize the edge
4. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Outfit: Cream Jacket with Soft Collar (C + B accent)

The jacket is short and open-front, like a cropped coat/vest, with a gentle collar. The photo shows a cream body with a subtle blue edging around the collar/trim area. Keep it neat and structured, but not stiff. The sleeves are long and simple.

Jacket Back Panel (C)

Work in rows to create a flat piece, then add front panels and sleeves. The jacket sits just above the waistline of the dress. Aim for a clean neckline so the blue collar detail frames the bunny face under the beret.

1. Row 1: ch 26, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (25)
2. Row 2–16: ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
3. Fasten off with a tail for seaming.

Left Front Panel (C)

1. Row 1: ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (13)
2. Row 2–14: ch 1, turn, sc across (13)
3. Neck shaping: Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc 10, turn (10)
4. Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc 10 (10)
5. Fasten off.

Right Front Panel (C)

Work same as Left Front Panel, mirrored. Leave yarn tails for sewing.

Shoulder Seams and Side Seams

With right sides facing, sew the front panels to the back at shoulders. Then sew down the sides, leaving armholes. Keep the armholes medium-sized so sleeves sit smoothly and the jacket looks fitted as in the photo.

Sleeves (make 2, C)

Sleeves are worked in rounds from the armhole down. The photo sleeves look straight and slim with no cuff flare. Work tightly so the sleeve does not look loose. Lightly stuff the bunny arms before sewing jacket on, then slide sleeves over.

1. Join C at armhole, evenly pick up 18 sc around
2. R1–R16: sc around (18)
3. R17: (4 sc, dec) around (15)
4. R18–R20: sc around (15)
5. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Collar and Trim (B accent)

The collar has a soft scalloped look in the photo. Create this by edging the jacket neckline and front opening with blue and small shells. Keep the shells subtle so they read as a gentle ruffle, not a large frill.

1. Join B at bottom edge of one front panel.
2. Work sc evenly up the front edge, around neckline, and down the other front edge.
3. On the neckline only: *(sl st, 3 hdc in next st, sl st in next st)* repeat to form small scallops.
4. Fasten off, weave in.

Outfit: Powder Pom Beret (B)

The beret is a key photo element: a wide, soft disk that sits low, with a rounded top and a plush pom. It should angle slightly, covering the top of the head while leaving the face fully visible. Keep the rim slightly snug so it stays in place.

Beret Top (B)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) around (42)
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) around (48)
9. R9: (7 sc, inc) around (54)
10. R10: (8 sc, inc) around (60)
11. R11: sc around (60)
12. R12: (9 sc, inc) around (66)
13. R13: sc around (66)

Beret Sides and Rim (B)

Now shape downward to form the beret walls. The photo beret is not a tall hat; it is mostly a disk with a short sidewall and a defined rim band. Work a few rounds even, then decrease to fit the head.

1. R14–R15: sc around (66)
2. R16: (9 sc, dec) around (60)
3. R17: sc around (60)
4. R18: (8 sc, dec) around (54)
5. R19: sc around (54)
6. R20: (7 sc, dec) around (48)
7. R21: sc around (48)
8. R22 (Rim Band): sc in blo around (48)
9. R23–R24: sc around (48)
10. Try on the bunny head. It should sit snugly but not tight. Add or remove one round if needed.
11. Fasten off, weave in.

Pom-Pom (B)

Make a dense pom that looks round and plush. You can use a pom maker or wrap yarn around fingers 40–60 times, tie tightly, trim evenly, then fluff. Sew securely to the top-center of the beret so it stands out like the photo.

Shoes: Powder Blue Mary Janes (make 2, B)

The shoes are simple closed-toe flats with a strap across the top and a pale sole edge. In the photo, the shoes look neat and slightly rounded at the toe, with a clear strap line. Work tightly and consider adding a thin plastic sole insert to keep them crisp.

Shoe Base (B)

1. Ch 10.
2. Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on other side: sc 7, 2 sc in last ch (20)
3. Round 2: inc, sc 7, inc x3, sc 7, inc x2 (28)
4. Round 3: sc, inc, sc 7, (sc, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc, inc) x2 (36)
5. Round 4: sc around in blo to create the sole edge (36)

Shoe Upper (B)

Build the upper with decreases at the toe. The goal is a closed toe with a low opening that shows the beige leg top slightly, like the photo. Adjust a few stitches if your gauge differs.

1. Round 5: sc around (36)
2. Round 6: sc 10, dec x6, sc 14 (30)
3. Round 7: sc 10, dec x5, sc 10 (25)
4. Round 8: sc 9, dec x4, sc 8 (21)
5. Round 9: sc around (21)
6. Fasten off and weave in.

Strap (B)

1. Join B on one side of shoe opening.
2. Ch 8–10 (enough to cross the top of the shoe).
3. Sl st to opposite side of opening. Fasten off.
4. Optional: stitch a tiny faux button with C or A at one strap end for a realistic detail.

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Mini Bear Friend

This tiny bear matches the bunny’s cozy day-out vibe. In the photo, the bear is brown with a cream jacket and blue pants, plus a small blue cap with a knob on top. Keep features simple: small eyes, a light muzzle, and a tiny black nose.

Mini Bear Head (D)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. R5–R8: sc around (24)
6. Insert 6–8 mm safety eyes between R6 and R7, about 5–6 stitches apart.
7. R9: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
8. R10: (sc, dec) around (12)
9. Stuff firmly.
10. R11: dec around (6)
11. Fasten off, close, weave in.

Mini Bear Muzzle (A or C)

The muzzle is a small oval patch that makes the bear look sweet and clear in the photo. Sew it centered under the eyes. Add a tiny black nose and a short vertical stitch down for a classic bear face.

1. Ch 5.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on other side: sc 2, 2 sc in last ch (10)
3. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Mini Bear Ears (make 2, D)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) around (9)
3. R3: sc around (9)
4. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Mini Bear Body (D)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. R5–R7: sc around (24)
6. R8: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
7. R9–R10: sc around (18)
8. Stuff firmly.
9. R11: (sc, dec) around (12)
10. R12: sc around (12)
11. Fasten off leaving a tail for attaching head.

Mini Bear Arms (make 2, D)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2–R6: sc around (6)
3. Lightly stuff.
4. Flatten and close with 3 sc. Fasten off with a tail.

Mini Bear Legs (make 2, D)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: sc around (12)
4. R4: (2 sc, dec) around (9)
5. R5–R10: sc around (9)
6. Stuff firmly.
7. Flatten and close with 4 sc. Fasten off with a tail.

Mini Bear Pants (B)

These are simple pull-on pants that cover the legs and leave the brown feet visible if you prefer. In the photo, the pants read as blue lower-half clothing. You can make them as a tube that slips over the body before assembly.

1. Ch 19, join to form a ring (18)
2. R1–R4: sc around (18)
3. Divide for legs: sc 9, join to first sc to form first leg ring (9), work 3 rounds sc (9), fasten off.
4. Join yarn at remaining 9 stitches for second leg, work 3 rounds sc (9), fasten off.

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Mini Bear Jacket (C)

The mini jacket mirrors the bunny’s cream outer layer. Keep it short and open-front. A tiny collar edge can be added with blue if you want the set to match even more closely, but keep it subtle so it stays proportional.

1. Row 1: ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (15)
2. Row 2–8: ch 1, turn, sc across (15)
3. Split for front opening: sc 5, ch 1, turn. Work 3 rows on these 5 stitches, fasten off.
4. Skip center 5 stitches for opening, join yarn to remaining 5 stitches, work 3 rows, fasten off.
5. Sew shoulders lightly so it sits like a short coat. Leave armholes open and stitch sides a little.

Mini Bear Cap (B)

The bear’s cap is a tiny round hat with a small knob on top, matching the photo’s cute silhouette. Keep the rim snug so it stays on the head. The knob can be a mini pom or a small crocheted nub.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4: sc around (18)
5. R5: (4 sc, dec) around (15)
6. R6: sc around (15)
7. R7: sc in blo around (15)
8. R8: sc around (15)
9. Fasten off and weave in.

For the knob, make a tiny pom or crochet: 4 sc in MR, sl st to first sc, fasten off, sew to the cap top.

Picnic Props

The photo includes a tiny bag, a popcorn cup, and a small ticket. These details make the scene feel complete and collectible. Keep stitches tight and use minimal stuffing so props hold shape without becoming bulky.

Mini Bag (B with A/C trim)

The bag is a small rectangular purse with a top handle and a simple flap/button detail. The photo shows a two-tone look: a beige/tan top and a blue body. Add a tiny stitched circle or button at the front for the clasp.

1. Base (B): ch 13.
2. Round 1: sc in 2nd ch, sc 10, 3 sc in last ch; sc 10 on other side, 2 sc in last ch (26)
3. Round 2: (inc, sc 10, inc x3, sc 10, inc x2) (34)
4. Round 3: sc around in blo (34)
5. Round 4–6: sc around (34)
6. Switch to A or C for top band.
7. Round 7–8: sc around (34)
8. Flap: sc 12, ch 1, turn. Work 4 rows sc 12 to create a short flap. Fasten off.
9. Handle: with A/C, ch 16, sl st back to start point across the top, reinforce by working sc along the chain if desired.
10. Clasp: embroider a small circle or sew a tiny button at the bag front center.

Popcorn Cup (Red/White + Yellow Popcorn)

The popcorn cup is a small cylinder with vertical stripe impression. Use red and white stripes by changing colors every round or by surface stitching. Fill with several tiny yellow popcorn puffs that sit above the rim as in the photo.

Cup Body (use White as main, add Red accents)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc around (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
5. R5: sc around in blo (24)
6. R6–R10: sc around (24)
7. Fasten off, lightly stuff or insert tissue so it holds shape.

Add stripes by stitching vertical red lines from base to rim, spacing them evenly, or by switching to red for 2–3 stitches every few stitches on each round for a striped look.

Popcorn Puffs (make 10–16, G)

Each puff is a tiny bobble-like nugget. Make several and sew or glue (fabric-safe) into the cup opening so they sit above the rim and look full.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR (5)
2. R2: inc around (10)
3. R3: sc around (10)
4. Fasten off, lightly pinch into a lumpy shape, sew to cup top.

Mini Ticket (Faux Paper Look in Yarn)

The ticket in the photo is a tiny rectangular tag. You can crochet it in beige and embroider lines, or cut felt. If crocheting, keep it thin and flat, then add a couple of stitched “print” lines for realism.

1. With A or C: ch 10.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (9)
3. Row 2–4: ch 1, turn, sc across (9)
4. Fasten off. Add tiny black stitched lines to suggest text.

Assembly

Assembly order matters for the clean look. Build the bunny first, then dress it, then add jacket, beret, and shoes. The mini bear is assembled and dressed separately. Keep seams neat and hidden. Use pins to position parts before stitching, especially ears and collar edges.

Attach Ears to Head

• Place ears starting around the midline of the head, slightly behind the eyes.
• Angle them so they hang straight down along the cheeks, like the photo.
• Sew the closed ear tops securely, making a smooth join without puckers.

Attach Head to Body

• Center the head on the body neck opening.
• Sew with small stitches around, pulling snugly for stability.
• Add extra stitches at front and back so the head does not wobble.

Attach Arms and Legs

• Sew legs low on the body so they extend long beneath the dress.
• Keep legs parallel and evenly spaced for a balanced seated pose.
• Sew arms at the upper sides, slightly forward so hands rest naturally.

Dress the Bunny

• Slide the dress onto the body from the feet upward before shoes if needed.
• Position bodice seam at the back.
• Tack the dress at shoulders or sides with a few stitches so it stays aligned.

Add the Jacket

• Put jacket on over the dress, aligning shoulders and sleeves.
• Make sure the blue collar scallops frame the neckline evenly.
• Stitch jacket lightly at shoulders and side seams to prevent shifting.

Shoes and Beret

• Slide shoes onto the feet. Tack at heel and instep so they stay on.
• Place beret low and slightly tilted. Sew a few hidden stitches under the rim.
• Sew pom securely at the top center of the beret.

Mini Bear Assembly

• Sew muzzle to head, then stitch nose and a short mouth line with E.
• Sew ears to the top sides of the head.
• Attach head to body firmly.
• Sew arms and legs in place, then add pants and jacket.
• Place cap on head and tack with a few stitches.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

For the bunny, embroider a tiny nose and soft “V” mouth with black thread, keeping it minimal and centered. If you want extra sweetness, add a single small stitch under each eye to suggest gentle cheeks. Confirm the beret tilt, collar symmetry, and bobble hem spacing before final tacking stitches.

Care Notes

Display pieces away from direct sunlight to prevent fading. Avoid heavy pulling on straps, collar scallops, and bobbles. If made for a child, consider embroidering eyes instead of using safety eyes, and secure all small parts (pom, ticket, popcorn puffs) with extra stitches.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes placed evenly and firmly secured
• Ears aligned and hanging at the same height
• Dress seam centered at the back
• Hem bobbles spaced evenly and facing outward
• Jacket collar scallops smooth and symmetrical
• Beret rim tacked so it does not slip
• Shoes attached with hidden stitches
• Mini bear outfit snug and cap secured
• Props firmly stitched so they hold shape

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap, then blot dry. For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cool water, supporting the doll to protect shaping. Press excess water with a towel and reshape while damp. Air dry fully. Store in a breathable bag, away from humidity and dust.