Balletcore Ribbonette Bunny – Crochet

This elegant amigurumi set features a soft ivory bunny dressed in a blush pink ballet-inspired outfit, complete with a beret, rosette, cardigan, layered tulle-style skirt, bow belt, tiny shoes, and a flower basket. It is a beautiful handmade gift idea for collectors, nursery decor, baby shower gifting, and boutique amigurumi lovers looking for a premium rabbit doll pattern.

The matching little swan companion adds extra charm and makes the set feel like a designer crochet display piece. If you enjoy creating heirloom-style stuffed animals, artisan nursery toys, balletcore decor, or handmade plush dolls for gift shop, craft fair, or online handmade store buyers, this pattern offers a polished and luxurious result.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

About the Design

This bunny has a softly oversized head, a compact pear-shaped body, slim arms, rounded legs, and long relaxed ears that fall straight down from the upper sides of the head. The look is gentle, balanced, and slightly vintage. The swan is intentionally narrow and much smaller, making it a sweet side companion rather than a second focal piece.

The outfit is built in layers so the finished figure matches the image closely. The bunny wears a fitted cardigan with a wrap-style front, a separate bow sash at the waist, a gathered skirt with a decorative lower trim, a tilted beret with a side rosette, and Mary Jane-inspired shoes with floral accents.

The bunny also carries a tiny basket filled with pastel tulips and a folded white cloth. Every visible feature in the image is included here so the final result feels complete and photo-ready. The small swan has a long neck, black eye area, textured beak, tiny wings, a fluffy head detail, and a short skirt.

Skill Level

Intermediate. A patient beginner can still make this set by moving slowly and using stitch markers often. Many parts are small, symmetrical, and shaped through measured increases and decreases. Clean stuffing, neat sewing, and careful placement matter as much as stitch accuracy in this project.

Materials

• Sport or light DK cotton yarn in ivory for bunny and parts of the swan
• Sport or light DK cotton yarn in dusty blush pink for cardigan, shoes, beret, rosette, and bow
• Very light beige or warm greige cotton yarn for the swan skirt
• Soft peach or muted coral yarn for the swan beak and legs
• Small amount of black yarn for swan face mask detail
• Small scraps in pastel pink, pastel yellow, pastel lavender, and pastel mint for basket flowers
• Fine white cotton or lace-weight yarn for decorative trim details if desired
• White tulle, soft mesh, chiffon ribbon, or lightweight net fabric for the bunny skirt overlay
• Small white cotton fabric or lace scrap for the cloth inside the basket
• 2.00 mm to 2.50 mm crochet hook for main doll pieces
• 1.75 mm to 2.00 mm hook for very small accessories if needed
• Safety eyes or black embroidery thread for eyes
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Pins for assembly
• Sharp small scissors
• Optional fabric glue for securing tulle and basket insert
• Optional floral wire or pipe cleaner for shaping tulip stems
• Soft brush or teasing brush for fluffy swan head detail

Finished Size

Using sport or light DK yarn and a 2.25 mm hook, the bunny measures about 10 to 11 inches tall seated, not including ear extension above the head line. The swan measures about 5 to 6 inches tall. Exact size depends on yarn thickness, stitch tension, stuffing density, and whether you add a fuller skirt overlay.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rnd = round

General Notes

Work the amigurumi parts in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round. Stuff gradually and evenly. Keep the head firmly stuffed so the face stays rounded, but leave the lower body slightly softer so the bunny can sit naturally.

The image shows fine, neat stitches with very little gap between them. If your stuffing shows through, reduce hook size rather than increasing yarn thickness. The cardigan, beret, skirt trim, bow, basket, and swan details all benefit from a slightly tighter tension than your usual garment tension.

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Bunny Head

The head is the visual focus of the set, so take your time. It is round and smooth with a slightly narrowed lower section where it joins the neck. The face is simple and sweet, with small close-set eyes and a tiny triangular nose connected to a short mouth line.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc x 6. (42)
8. Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc x 6. (48)
9. Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc x 6. (54)
10. Rnd 10: 8 sc, inc x 6. (60)
11. Rnd 11-20: sc around. (60)
12. Rnd 21: 8 sc, dec x 6. (54)
13. Rnd 22: 7 sc, dec x 6. (48)
14. Rnd 23: 6 sc, dec x 6. (42)
15. Rnd 24: 5 sc, dec x 6. (36)
16. Rnd 25: sc around. (36)
17. Rnd 26: 4 sc, dec x 6. (30)
18. Rnd 27: sc around. (30)

Stuff the head firmly. The front should remain smooth with no flat spots. Fasten off if making a separate neck join, or continue directly into the neck if you prefer. Leave a long tail for sewing if working the head and body separately.

Bunny Muzzle Shaping

The bunny in the image has a tiny, centered muzzle rather than a protruding snout. This is best achieved with embroidery rather than a separate muzzle piece. Lightly pinch the lower center of the face between rounds 18 and 22 and test your eye placement before stitching the nose.

• Place eyes between Rounds 16 and 17, about 7 to 8 stitches apart.
• Embroider a small upside-down triangle nose centered around Round 19.
• Bring the lower point of the triangle down one stitch and split into two tiny mouth lines.
• If desired, shade lightly under the eyes with pink pastel for a soft doll-like expression.

Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and softly drooping. They are not heavily stuffed. Each ear has a rounded tip and a gentle widening near the base so it attaches smoothly to the head. The inner look in the image is created by the natural curve of the crocheted fabric and the light filtering through the stitches.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 4: sc, inc x 6. (18)
5. Rnd 5-7: sc around. (18)
6. Rnd 8: 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 1 sc. (20)
7. Rnd 9-20: sc around. (20)
8. Rnd 21: 8 sc, dec x 2. (18)
9. Rnd 22-28: sc around. (18)
10. Rnd 29: 7 sc, dec x 2. (16)
11. Rnd 30-34: sc around. (16)

Flatten the base and crochet 8 sc through both sides, or leave open for sewing. Do not stuff except for a tiny amount at the very base if you want more structure. Lightly steam or finger-shape so the ears hang in a straight, soft line.

Bunny Body

The body is shorter than the head and shaped like a little dress form. The lower body is rounded for sitting, while the upper body narrows into a small chest and neck area. Because the cardigan covers much of the torso, the body should be neat but not overbuilt.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7-11: sc around. (36)
8. Rnd 12: 4 sc, dec x 6. (30)
9. Rnd 13-15: sc around. (30)
10. Rnd 16: 3 sc, dec x 6. (24)
11. Rnd 17-18: sc around. (24)
12. Rnd 19: 2 sc, dec x 6. (18)
13. Rnd 20-21: sc around. (18)
14. Rnd 22: BLO, sc around. (18)
15. Rnd 23-25: sc around. (18)

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Stuff the bottom more firmly than the upper body so the bunny sits with a rounded lower shape. If attaching the head later, fasten off and leave a long tail. If working continuously, continue into the neck for 2 to 3 rounds of 18 sc, then join the head securely.

Bunny Legs Make 2

The legs are straight and slim with slightly rounded feet. They should be long enough to dangle below the skirt when the bunny is seated. The shoes will cover the feet, so focus on making both legs identical and neatly stuffed with a soft bend at the knee area.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: BLO, sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 4-5: sc around. (12)
5. Rnd 6: 4 sc, dec x 2. (10)
6. Rnd 7-18: sc around. (10)
7. Rnd 19: flatten and crochet 5 sc through both layers, or leave open for sewing.

Stuff the foot area firmly and the upper leg more lightly. Shape the front of the foot by pressing it slightly flatter before adding the shoe. Make sure both legs angle slightly forward when attached, matching the seated pose in the image.

Bunny Arms Make 2

The arms are narrow, simple, and lightly stuffed. They extend to about waist level when attached. The image shows the sleeves covering most of the upper arm, so the crocheted hand only needs to be visible slightly at the cuffs.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: sc around. (6)
3. Rnd 3: inc x 6. (12)
4. Rnd 4: sc around. (12)
5. Rnd 5: 4 sc, dec x 2. (10)
6. Rnd 6-15: sc around. (10)

Stuff only the lower half. Flatten the top and sew closed. Keep the arms soft so they can rest naturally against the cardigan. One arm can be angled slightly outward so the basket can be tacked into place later.

Attaching the Bunny Body Pieces

Sew the head to the body so the face tilts very slightly forward. This matters because the beret sits low and the long ears frame the cheeks. Attach the legs low on the body front so they extend from beneath the skirt and hang downward while seated.

Sew the arms high on the body sides, just below the neckline. Attach the ears on the upper side sections of the head, beginning around rounds 7 to 10 from the top center. Let them fall straight down past the shoulders. They should not flare outward or sit too high.

Cardigan

The cardigan is blush pink and fitted with horizontal stitch lines. It wraps across the chest and ends right at the waist. The lower edge has a tiny decorative scallop effect. Work it as a shaped panel and seam it around the body, or work it in joined rows around the torso.

Option A: Flat Cardigan Panels

This method gives the cleanest wrap front. Make one back panel, then two front panels, and seam at the shoulders and sides.

Back Panel

1. Ch 16.
2. Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (15)
3. Rows 2-8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (15)

Left Front

1. Ch 10.
2. Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (9)
3. Rows 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (9)
4. Row 6: ch 1, turn, dec, sc across. (8)
5. Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (8)
6. Row 8: ch 1, turn, dec, sc across. (7)

Right Front

Repeat as mirror image. Seam shoulder tops to the back panel. Sew sides under the arm area, leaving openings for arm placement. Wrap the right front over the left front slightly, matching the image. Tack at the waist.

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Sleeves Make 2

1. Ch 12.
2. Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (11)
3. Rows 2-8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (11)

Fold each sleeve into a tube and seam. Slip over the arms before final arm attachment, or sew directly around attached arms. Add a gentle outward flare at the cuff by working one edge row of sc, hdc, sc repeats if needed.

Cardigan Edging

Work a neat edging around the neckline, front opening, and lower hem. For the tiny decorative lower edge seen in the image, use a very soft scallop.

• Work 1 round or row of sc evenly around the visible edges.
• For the hem scallop, repeat: sl st, 3 hdc in next st, sl st in next st.
• Keep the scallop shallow. The image shows refinement, not a dramatic frill.

Waist Bow Sash

The waist bow is one of the defining features. It sits slightly to one side on the cardigan and is full but tidy. Make a narrow belt strip, then add a separate bow with a center wrap. Position it low enough to sit over the skirt top line.

Sash Strap

1. Ch 26.
2. Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sl st across. (25)

Fasten off, wrap around the waist, and sew at the back or side.

Bow

1. Ch 16.
2. Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (15)
3. Rows 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (15)

Fasten off with long tail. Cinch the center with thread wraps. Make a narrow center strip from 6 chains and 1 row of sl st. Add two tails by chaining 8 to 10 and working sl st back, or by making two tiny flat strips. Sew the completed bow onto the sash slightly right of center.

Bunny Skirt Base

The skirt is soft, full, and knee-length when the bunny sits. Under the airy overlay, there is a crocheted base skirt with a decorative blush trim at the bottom. Work the skirt into the front loops left from the body round so it blooms gently from the waist.

1. Join blush yarn to FLO of body Round 22.
2. Rnd 1: inc in every stitch around. (36)
3. Rnd 2: sc around. (36)
4. Rnd 3: 5 sc, inc x 6. (42)
5. Rnd 4: sc around. (42)
6. Rnd 5: 6 sc, inc x 6. (48)
7. Rnd 6-8: sc around. (48)

For the lower decorative edge, work one trim round in a slightly lighter blush if desired. Repeat a shallow shell pattern around the hem so the edge mimics the scalloped lace-like finish in the image.

• Trim Round: sl st in next st, 4 dc in next st, sl st in next st, repeat around.

Tulle Overlay

The airy overlay is essential to the balletcore look. Cut a strip of white or very pale blush tulle long enough to wrap around the waist and full enough to gather softly. The finished layer should fall a little longer than the crocheted skirt but still allow the scalloped pink hem to peek out.

Gather the upper edge with a running stitch. Wrap around the bunny waist over the crocheted skirt top and under the bow sash. Sew securely by hand. If using a very soft mesh, two layers create the best cloudy effect. Keep the fullness delicate rather than stiff.

Beret

The beret is tilted to one side and sits low on the bunny head. It is not a tight cap. Instead, it is a soft disk-like hat with a slight rise in the center and a relaxed edge. The side rosette and the tilt are what create the charming French-inspired silhouette.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc x 6. (42)
8. Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc x 6. (48)
9. Rnd 9-10: sc around. (48)
10. Rnd 11: 6 sc, dec x 6. (42)
11. Rnd 12: 5 sc, dec x 6. (36)
12. Rnd 13: BLO, sc around. (36)
13. Rnd 14: 4 sc, dec x 6. (30)
14. Rnd 15: sc around. (30)

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Fasten off with long tail. Test placement before sewing. The hat should tilt over one side of the head and sit just above one eye line, leaving both ears visible. Lightly pinch one side before sewing to encourage the natural slant.

Beret Rosette

The rosette is medium-sized and sits on the same side as the hat tilt. It is tightly coiled and slightly raised, not flat. Use the same blush yarn as the beret.

1. Ch 26.
2. Row 1: 2 dc in third ch from hook, 2 dc in each remaining ch across.

This creates a ruffled strip. Roll the strip from one end to form a rose. Sew through the base to secure. Stitch the finished rosette to the side of the beret. Add one tiny leaf in matching pink if you want a fuller flower base, though the image mainly shows a monochrome rosette.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are blush Mary Jane-style slippers with a neat strap impression and tiny floral embellishments on the outer sides. They should fit closely over the feet and sit rounded at the toe. Keep them petite so the legs still look slim and doll-like.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: BLO, sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 4: 4 sc, dec x 2. (10)
5. Rnd 5: sc around. (10)

Fasten off and sew onto the feet. For the strap, embroider or stitch a short horizontal band across the upper front. To create the floral detail, make a tiny knot flower or French-knot cluster from ivory and blush thread and attach it near the outer side edge of each shoe.

Flower Basket

The basket is small and cylindrical with a simple handle area implied by the upper rim. It holds several tulip-like flowers in pastel shades and a folded white cloth that drapes slightly from one side. This accessory adds storybook charm and should look miniature compared with the bunny hand.

Basket Base

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: BLO, sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 4-7: sc around. (12)
5. Rnd 8: sl st around.

Fasten off. If you want a slightly squarer basket shape, gently press the sides after stuffing very lightly with scrap yarn or fabric. Add a tiny button-like dot by embroidering a small beige or wooden-colored knot on the front center.

Basket Flowers

Make 4 to 5 tiny buds in pastel colors. Each bud can be extremely simple because of scale.

• For one bud: 4 sc in MR, fasten off, close lightly.
• Attach each bud to a short green stem made from chained yarn or fine floral wire wrapped with green thread.
• Cluster the stems inside the basket.

Basket Cloth

Cut a tiny square of white cotton or lace fabric. Fold loosely and tuck behind the flowers so one corner peeks out from the basket side. Sew or glue discreetly. The cloth in the image looks soft and casual, not tightly folded.

Swan Head and Neck

The swan is slender, graceful, and intentionally whimsical. The neck is long and upright, the head is small, and the facial contrast makes the shape instantly readable. Because the neck is narrow, stuff lightly and use a support wire only if your yarn is very soft.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR using peach yarn for beak. (6)
2. Rnd 2: sc around. (6)
3. Rnd 3: change to ivory, sc around. (6)
4. Rnd 4: inc x 3, 3 sc. (9)
5. Rnd 5-16: sc around. (9)

Stuff very lightly as you go. If using a support insert, place a thin pipe cleaner inside and fold the bottom end for safety. The neck should remain straight without looking stiff.

Swan Face Mask

Using black yarn, embroider or surface crochet a small mask area around the eye and upper beak join, mainly on the front and sides. Add tiny black eyes above the beak line. Keep the contrast compact and elegant so it reads like the image rather than a dramatic patch.

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Swan Body

The body is tiny and pear-shaped, narrower than the bunny leg. It supports a little skirt and small wings. Because the neck is already attached or inserted into the top center, the body should be stuffed enough to anchor it but not so much that it loses the delicate silhouette.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with ivory yarn. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc, inc x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4-5: sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 6: 4 sc, dec x 3. (15)
6. Rnd 7-8: sc around. (15)
7. Rnd 9: 3 sc, dec x 3. (12)
8. Rnd 10: sc around. (12)

Insert the neck into the top opening and sew securely if made separately. Stuff the body lightly but evenly. Close the lower body enough to preserve its rounded base.

Swan Wings Make 2

The wings are tiny teardrop shapes stitched flat to the sides of the body. They should point slightly outward and slightly downward.

1. Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (8)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (8)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, dec x 2. (6)

Flatten and sew to the body sides. Add a tiny shaping stitch at the upper edge if you want more lift.

Swan Legs Make 2

The swan legs are thin, straight, and slightly longer than the body depth. Use peach yarn.

1. Ch 10.
2. Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sl st back along chain. (9)

Fasten off with long tail. Make two. Sew beneath the body so they hang straight down. Add a tiny three-point foot if desired by making 3 short chain toes at the lower end, though the image reads mostly as slim textured legs.

Swan Skirt

The swan wears a short beige skirt that widens gently from the body and stops above the legs. It is simple and slightly textured, creating a charming dressed-up contrast with the bunny.

1. Join greige yarn near lower body.
2. Rnd 1: work 12 sc evenly around body lower edge or around an applied waistline.
3. Rnd 2: 2 sc, inc x 4. (16)
4. Rnd 3-4: sc around. (16)
5. Rnd 5: sl st around.

Fasten off. If you want a slightly more flared edge, replace Round 4 with alternating sc, hdc. Keep it subtle.

Swan Head Tuft

The fluffy tuft is important because it softens the swan and matches the whimsical styling of the set. Use brushed yarn, faux fur yarn, mohair scrap, or tease out a small piece of ivory yarn until fluffy.

Attach the tuft to the crown slightly toward the back. Trim carefully so it resembles a small pom-like feather cluster rather than long hair. It should feel airy and playful.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Pin every bunny piece before sewing permanently. Confirm that the head is centered, ears fall evenly, and the beret tilt frames the face beautifully. Keep the eyes small and low-contrast for a gentle expression. The nose should be tiny. The swan should sit close to the bunny but remain fully visible.

Sew the basket to one hand with a few hidden stitches. If desired, tack the swan lightly near the bunny side for display photography, though leaving it separate makes styling easier. Smooth the tulle, fluff the swan tuft, and adjust the bow tails so both accessories sit naturally.

Care Notes

Handle the set gently because of the tulle, floral basket details, and swan tuft. Keep it away from rough play if made as decor. If gifting to a child, replace small safety parts with embroidery and secure every accessory with extra stitching.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Bunny head firmly stuffed and smooth
• Eyes even and nose centered
• Ears attached at matching height and falling straight
• Cardigan fitted cleanly across the chest
• Bow sash placed slightly off-center
• Skirt full, soft, and balanced front to back
• Beret tilted and rosette secure
• Shoes aligned evenly
• Basket flowers arranged neatly
• Swan neck upright and skirt level

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean only with a damp cloth and a tiny amount of mild soap. Do not machine wash, soak, or wring because the tulle and shaped accessories may distort. Pat dry with a towel and reshape while damp. Allow to air dry fully away from direct sun.

Store flat or upright in a dust-free area. Avoid crushing the beret rosette, swan tuft, and bow. If displayed long term, brush away dust gently with a soft makeup brush. For heirloom storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and keep in a breathable box.