Butter-Yellow Oatmilk Bunny – Crochet

Butter-Yellow Oatmilk Bunny – Crochet

This butter-yellow bunny doll is styled like a soft handmade heirloom with a flower beret, neat cardigan, eyelet skirt, tiny crossbody bag, strappy shoes, bouquet, biscuit, and a matching duck friend. It fits beautifully into searches for an amigurumi bunny doll, crochet stuffed rabbit, and handmade nursery gift.

The finished set has the polished look many makers want for a collectible crochet doll, spring bunny decor, or giftable plush bunny. Every section below is written to recreate the exact styling, proportions, and gentle color balance shown in the image while keeping the process approachable for careful beginners.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern creates a seated bunny doll with a large rounded head, long flat ears, a compact torso, slim limbs, and softly oversized clothing. The bunny wears a pale oatmeal beret decorated with clustered flowers, a textured cardigan with daisy trim, a butter-yellow skirt with scalloped hem and embroidered motifs, and cream sandals.

The accessories are part of the charm and should not be skipped if you want the same visual result. The set includes a tiny striped milk bag with crossbody strap, a miniature duck in a ruffled collar holding a biscuit, one larger biscuit on the table, and a small rose bouquet placed beside the bunny.

The body is intentionally proportioned for a seated portrait display. The head is visually dominant, the torso is short, the arms are medium length and lightly curved inward, and the legs are long enough to hang below the skirt hem when the doll sits on a bench or shelf.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate.

  • Work in continuous rounds unless noted.
  • Read stitch counts carefully at the end of each round.
  • Shape with invisible decreases for a clean amigurumi finish.
  • Use light stuffing and frequent shaping for the soft rounded look.
  • Embroidery and decorative finishing are essential to match the image.

Materials

  • Main bunny color: light butter yellow cotton yarn, DK or light worsted
  • Clothing neutral: pale oatmeal or warm beige cotton yarn
  • Skirt accent: butter yellow matching the body or half shade deeper
  • White: for daisies, bag stripe, duck ruffle, and trim
  • Light sage green: for beret flowers and skirt embroidery leaves
  • Soft tan: for flower centers and biscuit details
  • Duck beak color: muted orange
  • Rose shades: blush pink, dusty rose, cream, and muted green for bouquet leaves
  • Safety eyes: 8 mm for bunny, 5 or 6 mm for duck
  • Embroidery floss or thin yarn: brown for bunny mouth, tan for skirt details
  • Crochet hook: 2.25 mm to 3.0 mm depending on tension
  • Fiberfill stuffing
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Small amount of craft wire optional for bouquet stems only
  • Fabric glue optional for securing tiny bouquet wraps if desired

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not critical, but tight stitches matter. The fabric should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. If you use DK cotton and a 2.5 mm hook, the finished seated bunny will be about 13 to 15 inches tall from beret top to sandal soles, with the duck at about 4 inches tall.

If your stitches run loose, drop a hook size. The photo shows firm, compact stitches with smooth shaping and minimal gaps. A slightly stiffer fabric also helps the beret hold its rounded crown and the cardigan keep its tailored shape.

Abbreviations

  • MR = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • inc = 2 sc in one stitch
  • dec = invisible decrease
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • tr = treble crochet
  • FLO = front loop only
  • BLO = back loop only
  • st = stitch
  • sts = stitches

Color Planning

Keep the palette soft and warm. The bunny body is a pale creamy yellow, not bright lemon. The cardigan, beret, shoes, and bag are all in related oatmeal-beige tones. The skirt is yellow but a little richer than the body. This gentle contrast is what makes the outfit readable without looking harsh.

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Use white sparingly and only where the image shows crisp highlights: daisy petals, a narrow bag stripe, duck collar trim, and small detail accents. The green on the beret and skirt should be muted sage, not dark forest green. The entire set should feel dusty, pastel, and slightly vintage.

Bunny Head

Stuff gradually and shape often. The head should be broad and smooth with subtle cheek fullness. It is nearly spherical but slightly wider through the face than through the crown. Do not overstuff the lower face, or the embroidered mouth will distort.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc, inc x6. (18)
  4. R4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
  5. R5: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
  6. R6: 4 sc, inc x6. (36)
  7. R7: 5 sc, inc x6. (42)
  8. R8: 6 sc, inc x6. (48)
  9. R9: 7 sc, inc x6. (54)
  10. R10-R19: sc around. (54 each round)
  11. Insert safety eyes between R13 and R14 with about 10 visible stitches between them.
  12. R20: 7 sc, dec x6. (48)
  13. R21: 6 sc, dec x6. (42)
  14. R22: 5 sc, dec x6. (36)

Begin stuffing firmly at this stage, concentrating more fill in the side cheeks and upper forehead. Keep the center front slightly softer. This gives the face the gentle plush look shown in the image and prevents a boxy result.

  1. R23: 4 sc, dec x6. (30)
  2. R24: 3 sc, dec x6. (24)
  3. R25: 2 sc, dec x6. (18)

Do not fasten off if joining to the neck directly. If you prefer sewing later, leave a long tail. Lightly flatten the lower opening so the head sits naturally on the torso without tipping backward.

Bunny Muzzle and Face Shaping

The face in the image is minimal. There is no raised snout piece. Instead, the expression comes from eye placement, a tiny stitched nose line, and soft inward shading at the center face. Keep everything small and low contrast.

  • Using matching body yarn or a slightly deeper beige, add tiny indent shaping from eye corners toward the lower center face if desired.
  • Embroider a short vertical nose line centered two rounds below the eyes.
  • Add a tiny horizontal split at the bottom to suggest a simple rabbit mouth.
  • Do not make the smile wide. The image shows a quiet, almost neutral expression.

Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, flat, and gently tapered with rounded ends. They hang straight down from the beret line to below the shoulder area. They are not stuffed. A light press with your fingers after finishing helps them lie flat.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: 1 sc, inc x6. (18)
  4. R4-R8: sc around. (18 each round)
  5. R9: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. (16)
  6. R10-R22: sc around. (16 each round)
  7. R23: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec. (14)
  8. R24-R30: sc around. (14 each round)

Flatten each ear and crochet 7 sc across through both layers to close the base. Leave a tail for sewing. When attached, the ears should emerge from the side-top of the head and angle slightly forward before falling straight down.

Neck and Torso

The torso is smaller than the head and fairly straight. It acts as an inner body under the cardigan and skirt, so the shaping stays simple. The chest is modestly rounded, and the waist remains compact to let the skirt sit neatly without bulk.

  1. R1: With body color, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc, inc x6. (18)
  4. R4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
  5. R5-R7: sc around. (24 each round)
  6. R8: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
  7. R9-R12: sc around. (30 each round)
  8. R13: 3 sc, dec x6. (24)
  9. R14-R17: sc around. (24 each round)

Stuff the torso firmly in the center but do not overfill the top edge. The neck opening should compress slightly under the head, which helps the doll look soft rather than rigid. Fasten off, leaving a tail if sewing head later.

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Arms Make 2

The arms are slim cylinders with only a slight widening at the upper arm. They should reach to about the lower cardigan edge when hanging. Keep stuffing light, especially near the hands, so the arms can sit close to the body.

  1. R1: With body color, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3-R5: sc around. (12 each round)
  4. R6: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)
  5. R7-R18: sc around. (10 each round)
  6. R19: 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc. (12)
  7. R20-R23: sc around. (12 each round)

Stuff the lower half lightly and the upper half a little more. Flatten the top and crochet 6 sc through both layers to close. Leave a long tail for sewing. Attach the arms just below the head on the upper side torso so they angle slightly downward and inward.

Legs Make 2

The legs are long and even, with only minimal ankle shaping because the sandals cover the feet. They should hang straight from beneath the skirt. The image shows both legs parallel, close together, and extending slightly beyond the sandal soles.

  1. R1: With body color, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3-R5: sc around. (12 each round)
  4. R6: BLO sc around. (12)
  5. R7-R24: sc around. (12 each round)

Stuff evenly, keeping the ankle flexible and the calf straight. Flatten the top and close with 6 sc through both layers. Leave a sewing tail. Attach the legs to the lower torso so they hang forward when seated. If you want a permanent seated bend, tack each leg at the top front edge after attachment.

Body Assembly

Sew the head to the torso first. Check that the face points straight forward and not up. Add extra stuffing to the neck area before closing if needed. Sew the ears next, placing them slightly behind the eye line and high enough that the beret can still sit over the base.

Attach the arms level with the upper torso sides. Sew the legs evenly across the lower torso front. The bunny should balance in a seated pose, with the skirt later covering the leg joins. Test the pose on a flat edge before moving to the clothing.

Beret

The beret is soft, shallow, and slightly oversized. It sits low on the head and tilts a little to one side. The crown has a classic expanded shape, then narrows into a fitted band. Do not make it too deep, or it will hide the eyes.

  1. R1: With oatmeal yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc, inc x6. (18)
  4. R4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
  5. R5: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
  6. R6: 4 sc, inc x6. (36)
  7. R7: 5 sc, inc x6. (42)
  8. R8: 6 sc, inc x6. (48)
  9. R9: 7 sc, inc x6. (54)
  10. R10: 8 sc, inc x6. (60)
  11. R11-R13: sc around. (60 each round)
  12. R14: 8 sc, dec x6. (54)
  13. R15: 7 sc, dec x6. (48)
  14. R16: 6 sc, dec x6. (42)
  15. R17: 5 sc, dec x6. (36)
  16. R18: BLO sc around. (36)
  17. R19-R21: sc around. (36 each round)
  18. R22: sl st around loosely. Fasten off.

Try the beret on the head. It should sit just above the eyes, covering the ear bases slightly. If needed, steam lightly or finger-shape the crown so it falls with a gentle side tilt rather than standing straight up.

Beret Flower Motifs

The image shows several small layered flowers clustered around the top edge of the beret. Use oatmeal, cream, and sage green to make soft floral accents. They should be tiny and low profile, not large statement blooms.

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Small Five-Petal Flower

  1. With cream or sage, make MR.
  2. Into ring work: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st x5 petals.
  3. Pull tight and fasten off.

Mini Rosette

  1. Ch 12.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, work 2 hdc in each chain across.
  3. Roll into a spiral and sew base.

Make 5 to 7 motifs total in mixed colors, but let oatmeal and sage dominate. Sew them around one side and across the upper band of the beret, leaving enough open space that the hat still looks simple and elegant.

Cardigan

The cardigan is a short, fitted jacket with long sleeves, a centered opening, and vertical textured rows. The front edges meet slightly but do not overlap heavily. Small daisies run down the front opening like decorative buttons or appliqué trim.

This cardigan is crocheted in rows as a flat piece from the lower body upward, then seamed at the shoulders and underarms. Sleeves are worked separately and sewn in. Keep it neat and close-fitting so it hugs the torso under the skirt waistband.

Back and Front Body Panel

  1. With oatmeal yarn, ch 25.
  2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (24)
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, BLO sc across. (24)
  4. Rows 3-10: repeat Row 2.

This creates the vertical rib texture seen in the photo. Hold the strip around the torso to check fit. It should wrap around the body with a narrow open front. Adjust the starting chain slightly if your gauge differs.

  1. Row 11: ch 1, sc 5, turn. Work left front only for 6 rows. Fasten off.
  2. Rejoin yarn to center back section, sc 14 across for back panel. Work 6 rows. Fasten off.
  3. Rejoin yarn to remaining 5 stitches for right front. Work 6 rows. Fasten off.

Seam the shoulder tops with a very small join, leaving armholes open. Wrap the cardigan around the bunny and seam the side edges neatly under the arms. The lower edge should stop just at the top of the skirt line.

Sleeves Make 2

  1. Ch 12.
  2. Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and across. (11)
  3. Rows 2-12: ch 1, turn, BLO sc across. (11)

Seam each sleeve into a tube. Leave one end slightly narrower for the wrist. Sew into the armholes with the sleeve seam facing the underside. The sleeve should end just above the bunny hand, matching the image where a little hand peeks below the cuff.

Cardigan Edging

Join yarn at one lower front edge and work a neat border around the entire front opening and neckline in sc. Keep the stitches even and not too tight. This tidy border makes the cardigan look tailored and helps support the daisy trim.

Daisy Trim

Make 4 or 5 tiny daisies in white with soft yellow or tan centers. Each should be about the width of 3 to 4 cardigan rows.

  1. With white, make MR.
  2. Into ring work 5 petals: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.
  3. With tan or yellow, add a tiny stitched French-knot style center or a small wrapped stitch.

Sew the daisies vertically down one cardigan front, spaced evenly. In the image, they read like charming decorative closures placed close together down the center line of the jacket.

Skirt

The skirt is full, soft, and bell-shaped. It begins close to the waist and expands gradually. The hem has a scalloped lace edge, and the lower half includes embroidered floral or seed-like motifs spaced around the circumference.

Work the skirt as a separate piece and sew it to the torso under the cardigan. This gives a cleaner waistline and lets you position the fullness exactly. The skirt should sit high enough that only the lower body and legs show beneath it.

  1. With butter-yellow yarn, ch 25 and join carefully into a ring, or begin with 24 sc foundation ring sized to the waist.
  2. R1-R3: sc around. (24)
  3. R4: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
  4. R5: sc around. (30)
  5. R6: 4 sc, inc x6. (36)
  6. R7: sc around. (36)
  7. R8: 5 sc, inc x6. (42)
  8. R9: sc around. (42)
  9. R10: 6 sc, inc x6. (48)
  10. R11-R13: sc around. (48 each round)

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Try the skirt on the bunny. It should flare outward naturally and cover the top of the legs when seated. If your yarn is very soft, work one round in BLO near the waist to create a gentle fold and help the skirt hang outward.

Eyelet Accent Round

  1. R14: *sc 2, ch 1, skip 1* around. Adjust at end to keep spacing even.
  2. R15: sc around, placing 1 sc in each chain space. Maintain stitch count close to 48.

This subtle eyelet texture echoes the airy detail visible in the lower skirt area. Keep the openings small and delicate. They should not read as lace holes from far away, just gentle decorative breaks in the fabric.

Scalloped Hem

  1. R16: *sl st in next st, skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st* around.

The scallops should be rounded and even. Block lightly with your fingers so they fan outward. This edge is very important because the photo clearly shows a decorative curved hem rather than a plain straight finish.

Skirt Embroidery

Using sage green and tan embroidery yarn, add 5 to 7 evenly spaced motifs around the lower skirt. Each motif should look like a tiny floral bud or seed cluster framed by leaf stitches.

  • Stitch two curved green leaves facing upward.
  • Add a small tan oval or knot at the center base.
  • Optional: place a second tiny tan dot above for added depth.

These motifs should sit a little above the scalloped hem, not directly on it. The image shows them as delicate decorative medallions that break up the plain yellow skirt without making it busy.

Sandals

The sandals are soft cream with open toes, crossed front straps, and tiny side bows or flower-like knots. They should look dainty and slightly oversized in the sweet doll style, but not clunky.

Sole Make 2

  1. With cream yarn, ch 7.
  2. Round 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, working opposite side sc 4, 2 sc in last ch. (14)
  3. Round 2: inc, sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x2. (20)
  4. Round 3: sc around in BLO. (20)

Upper Straps

Join yarn at one side front. Make a strap of 6 to 7 chains, anchor across the toe, then make a second strap crossing diagonally in the opposite direction. Repeat on the other shoe so the crossing mirrors properly.

Create an ankle strap by chaining loosely around the leg. Secure at the sides and add a tiny knot, bow, or flower at the outer side. The image shows a decorative side accent rather than a plain closure, so this finishing touch matters.

Milk Bag

The bag is a small rectangular crossbody pouch in oatmeal with a white lower stripe and the word MILK stitched across the front. It hangs at the bunny’s side with a narrow strap crossing from shoulder to hip.

Bag Body

  1. With white, ch 7.
  2. Round 1: sc around rectangle foundation to 14 sts total.
  3. Round 2: switch to oatmeal, sc around. (14)
  4. Rounds 3-6: sc around. (14 each round)

Flatten and stitch the top almost closed, leaving a tiny pouch opening if desired. Embroider MILK in brown or muted rose across the front center. Keep the letters neat, uppercase, and slightly narrow.

Strap

  1. With oatmeal, ch enough to cross from one shoulder to opposite hip, about 26 to 32 chains depending on doll size.
  2. Work sl st back across for strength.
  3. Sew each end to the upper corners of the bag.

Position the strap diagonally over the cardigan. The bag should rest just below the waist at the bunny’s side, matching the image.

Mini Duck

The duck is small, round, and charming, with a butter-yellow body, tiny wings, orange beak, dark eyes, and a cream ruffled collar. It sits low beside the bunny and holds a biscuit. Keep the duck slightly squat rather than tall.

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Duck Head and Body Combined

  1. R1: With duck yellow, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc, inc x6. (18)
  4. R4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
  5. R5-R8: sc around. (24 each round)
  6. Insert 5 or 6 mm eyes between R6 and R7 with about 6 stitches between.
  7. R9: 2 sc, dec x6. (18)
  8. R10: sc around. (18)
  9. R11: 1 sc, dec x6. (12)

Stuff firmly and close. Shape slightly flatter at the base so the duck sits upright. The head and body should read as one plump form rather than two strongly separated spheres.

Beak

  1. With muted orange, ch 4.
  2. Work around the chain to form a tiny oval.
  3. Fasten off and sew centered just below eye level.

Wings Make 2

  1. With duck yellow, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: sc around.
  3. Flatten and sew to each side.

Feet Make 2

  1. With orange, ch 4.
  2. Work a tiny flat oval or simple triangle-like pad.
  3. Sew to the underside front.

Duck Collar

With cream or white, chain long enough to fit around the duck neck area. Work *sl st, hdc, sl st* repeatedly into the chain or around a foundation ring to create a tiny ruffle. Tie or sew around the neck.

Duck Biscuit

The duck holds a miniature biscuit similar in color to the larger one beside the bouquet. Make it flatter than a coin with a gently scalloped or rounded edge.

  1. With tan yarn, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: *sc, inc* around. (18)
  4. Fasten off.

Embroider a few tiny darker tan dots or short stitches for biscuit texture. Tack the biscuit lightly to the duck wing so it looks tucked close to its body.

Large Biscuit

Make a second biscuit slightly larger than the duck’s version. This piece rests on the table beside the bouquet and helps complete the soft bakery theme suggested by the milk bag.

  1. With tan yarn, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
  4. Round 4: sc around. (18)

Add small stitched dots or seed-like nubs across the top. Leave it flat with no stuffing.

Rose Bouquet

The bouquet is tiny and delicate, made from small rolled roses and leaves gathered into a hand-tied cluster. Use three to five flowers in blush, rose, and cream. Keep it compact so it reads as a miniature table prop rather than a large floral arrangement.

Mini Rose Make 3 to 5

  1. Ch 15.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, work 2 hdc in each chain across.
  3. Roll the strip from one end to form a spiral bloom.
  4. Stitch the base securely.

Leaves

  1. With muted green, ch 5.
  2. Work sl st, sc, hdc, sc along chain for a tiny leaf.
  3. Make 3 to 5 leaves.

Gather the roses and leaves together. Wrap the stems with matching yarn or stitch them together at the base. If using wire, keep it very fine and cover it completely. Place the finished bouquet at the bunny’s left side as shown.

Final Assembly and Styling

Dress the bunny in this order for the cleanest finish: cardigan first, skirt second, sandals third, beret last. Add the milk bag after clothing is fully positioned. Arrange the ears so they fall straight under the beret. Gently tilt the hat to one side and let the floral decorations face forward.

Place the bunny in a seated pose with both legs hanging down. Set the duck on the right side, close to one sandal. Put the bouquet on the left side and the larger biscuit nearby. Small prop placement is part of the overall likeness, so keep the grouping balanced and close.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

  • Check that both eyes are level before fully tightening any final head seam.
  • Keep the mouth tiny and centered for the calm expression.
  • Tack ears lightly under the beret if they shift too far outward.
  • Sew the cardigan front trim flat so the daisy line stays straight.
  • Steam the skirt hem very lightly by hovering, not pressing.

Care Notes

  • Display away from strong direct sunlight to protect the pastel tones.
  • Handle the bouquet, bag strap, and duck biscuit gently because they are small attached details.
  • If gifting to a child, replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes.
  • This set is best treated as decorative heirloom crochet.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Bunny seated evenly with both legs aligned
  • Beret tilted softly and flowers clustered on one side
  • Daisy trim centered on cardigan front
  • Skirt scallops opened and embroidery spaced evenly
  • Milk bag hanging crossbody at hip
  • Duck collar ruffled and biscuit attached
  • Bouquet and larger biscuit completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

  • Dust regularly with a soft dry makeup brush or clean microfiber cloth.
  • For surface marks, dab gently with a barely damp cloth and mild soap, then air dry fully.
  • Do not machine wash if the set includes glued bouquet parts or safety eyes.
  • Store flat or seated in a breathable box with acid-free tissue to keep the hat and skirt shape intact.

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