Bluebell Gingham Bunny – Crochet

This sweet handmade bunny doll set blends soft farmhouse charm with collectible amigurumi styling. With its blue gingham outfit, scalloped bonnet, tiny purse, cupcake, and miniature animal friend, it feels perfect for shoppers searching for a crochet bunny doll, nursery decor piece, baby shower gift, or heirloom stuffed rabbit.

The finished set has the polished look many people want when browsing for handmade rabbit plush toys, artisan amigurumi dolls, cottagecore nursery accessories, and seasonal display pieces. Every detail is designed to match the image closely, while still being manageable for a patient beginner who wants a refined, gift-worthy result.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design includes all visible pieces in the image:

• The standing bunny
• The long floppy ears
• The blue gingham bonnet with side ruffles
• The long-sleeve gingham blouse
• The matching skirt with scalloped hem
• The neck tie detail
• The cream shoes with white flower trim
• The small cream purse
• The cupcake accessory
• The tiny white lace mat
• The miniature gingham companion holding a cupcake

The main bunny is slender and softly proportioned. The head is large but not oversized, the torso is narrow, the legs are long and straight, and the arms hang low beside the skirt line. The outfit is the visual focus, so neat tension and tidy color placement matter throughout.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light beige or warm oatmeal cotton yarn, sport or light DK weight
• Blue gingham yarn: dusty medium blue cotton yarn
• White yarn: soft white cotton yarn
• Light pink yarn: for cupcake stripe and miniature companion accents
• Brown yarn: for cupcake base
• Red yarn: for cherry
• Tiny amount of tan or light brown yarn: for miniature companion ears if desired
• Crochet hooks: one hook for the doll body and one slightly smaller hook for accessories if you like extra firmness
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes or black beads: for the bunny and miniature companion
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Optional lightweight craft wire: only if you want a firmer purse handle

Yarn and Tension Notes

Use a hook size that gives you very tight stitches. The fabric in the image looks dense, smooth, and structured, especially in the head, skirt, bonnet, and shoes. If your stitches look loose or stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.

The bunny body should feel compact but not stiff like cardboard. The clothing should drape just slightly, while still holding a defined silhouette. The gingham sections depend on even stitch height, so try to keep your tension as consistent as possible from row to row.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = invisible decrease
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch

Color Planning for the Gingham Look

The gingham effect in the image is small-scale and tidy, not bold buffalo plaid. To recreate it, work narrow alternating bands and tiny blocks of blue and white. You do not need long dramatic checks. You want a fine picnic-cloth texture.

There are two easy ways to achieve the look:

1. Alternate blue and white every 1 stitch across selected rounds or rows while also shifting the starting color on the next row.
2. Use surface stitching afterward to emphasize vertical checks over a striped base.

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For the cleanest result, work the blouse, skirt, bonnet, and miniature companion dress in close blue-and-white alternation. Carry the unused color neatly inside the stitches when possible.

Finished Size

The main bunny should stand about 9 to 11 inches tall, depending on yarn and hook choice. The miniature companion should be much smaller, around one-third of the bunny’s height. The purse and cupcake are palm-sized accessories.

Main Bunny

Legs Make 2

Begin with beige yarn. The legs are long, straight, and slim. They should taper very slightly at the ankle, widen a little at the calf, and remain narrow through the thigh.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: sc around.
4. Round 4: 4 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc. This creates a slight toe area. 14 sts.
5. Rounds 5–7: sc around.
6. Round 8: 5 sc, dec, 7 sc. 13 sts.
7. Round 9: sc around.
8. Round 10: dec, 11 sc. 12 sts.
9. Rounds 11–24: sc around for a long lower leg.
10. Round 25: 2 inc evenly spaced. 14 sts.
11. Rounds 26–34: sc around.

Stuff the foot firmly and the leg moderately. Make the second leg the same. Fasten off the first leg. Do not fasten off the second leg.

Join the Legs and Body

1. From the second leg, ch 3 and join to the first leg.
2. Round 1: sc around first leg, sc across chain, sc around second leg, sc across other side of chain.

Mark the center front. Adjust with a stitch or two if needed so the face lines up nicely over the gap between the feet. This matters because the dress falls straight and the image shows a centered pose.

1. Rounds 2–4: sc around.
2. Round 5: dec at each side seam area, spaced evenly. Reduce slightly for the waist.
3. Rounds 6–8: sc around.
4. Round 9: 2 inc at front, 2 inc at back, spaced evenly. This makes a gentle chest shape.
5. Rounds 10–14: sc around.

The torso is slim and column-like. Do not overstuff. You want the blouse to fit smoothly without making the body bulky.

Neck

1. Round 15: work several evenly spaced dec rounds until the neck is clearly narrower than the torso.
2. Rounds 16–17: sc around.

Stuff the upper body a bit more firmly before beginning the head.

Head

The head is round, smooth, and slightly taller than it is wide. The muzzle is subtle and built into the shaping rather than added as a separate protruding snout.

1. Round 1: inc evenly around the neck opening to begin widening for the head.
2. Rounds 2–6: continue increasing gradually until the head is broad and rounded.
3. Rounds 7–15: sc around.

Place the eyes low enough to create the gentle, childlike expression in the image. They are not set high on the forehead. The spacing is moderate, leaving room for the stitched nose and mouth in the center.

1. Rounds 16–20: begin gradual decreases.
2. Stuff firmly as you go.
3. Final rounds: continue decreasing until closed.

Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail securely.

Arms Make 2

The arms are narrow, lightly stuffed, and hang straight. They end in simple rounded paws without visible fingers.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rounds 3–5: sc around.
4. Round 6: dec twice evenly. 10 sts.
5. Rounds 7–20: sc around.

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Stuff only the lower half well. Leave the upper arm lightly stuffed or nearly empty so it can rest softly against the blouse. Flatten the opening and sew each arm to the body just below the neck.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, flat, and softly drooping. They begin narrow at the top attachment point, widen gently in the middle, and soften again toward the tip. They are not heavily stuffed.

1. Chain a foundation long enough for the ear length you want.
2. Work around the chain in oval fashion using sc, with 3 sc at each end turn.
3. On the next rounds, increase slightly near both rounded ends so the ear becomes softly elongated.
4. Continue until the ear width looks proportional to the head.

Flatten each ear gently. Do not stuff. Sew them at the upper sides of the head, slightly behind the face line, so they fall down beside the cheeks as shown in the image.

Face Shaping and Embroidery

The bunny face is sweet and understated. The eyes are small black beads or safety eyes. The nose is a simple Y-shaped stitched detail in brown or taupe. The mouth line is short and centered.

• Eyes: place symmetrically with a calm expression
• Nose: stitch a small upside-down triangle or satin-style nose
• Mouth: extend a short center line downward
• Optional gentle muzzle shaping: pull a thread very lightly from eye area to mouth area

Keep everything minimal. The image does not show blushing cheeks, lashes, or heavy sculpting.

Blouse

The blouse is roomy, slightly cropped, and gathered around the neck. It has long sleeves, a soft flare at the hem, and a blue-and-white gingham appearance. It sits over the waist and overlaps the top of the skirt.

Body of Blouse

Work from the neckline downward with blue and white yarn. Keep your stitch pattern small and regular to imitate gingham. You can alternate 1 stitch blue, 1 stitch white for selected rows, then reverse on the next row.

1. Chain or create a starting ring wide enough to pass over the bunny head if making it removable. If not removable, work directly around the neck and close later.
2. Round 1: establish the neck opening in blue.
3. Round 2: begin increases for raglan-style shaping or evenly distributed shoulder shaping.
4. Rounds 3–6: continue the yoke, alternating blue and white checks.

Once the yoke reaches shoulder width, divide for sleeves.

1. Skip sleeve stitches on each side and continue the front and back joined for the body.
2. Work the body for several rounds with a very slight outward flare.
3. Finish with a neat lower edge in blue.

The blouse should end just below the waistline so it overlaps the skirt. It should not be too short, and it should not cover most of the skirt.

Sleeves

Rejoin yarn at each arm opening. Work sleeves downward. The sleeves in the image are straight and softly loose, ending just above the paw hands. They are not puff sleeves.

1. Round 1: join blue at underarm.
2. Rounds 2–10: work gingham in the round, decreasing slightly once or twice if needed.
3. Final round: blue edging.

Make sure the sleeve length allows the little beige paws to show beneath the cuffs.

Neck Frill and Ties

The blouse neckline has a delicate gathered trim and a tied cord at the front. This small detail adds a lot to the accuracy of the piece.

1. Join blue yarn around the neckline.
2. Work a round of hdc or dc increases into the neckline edge to form a soft frill.
3. For the tie, chain a narrow cord in blue and weave it through the front of the neck edge.
4. Tie into a small bow at center front.

The bow should be soft and narrow, not oversized.

Skirt

The skirt is separate and sits at the waist beneath the blouse. It has a gentle bell shape and a scalloped bottom edge. The gingham continues across the whole skirt, with a tidy grid that reads clearly even from a distance.

Waistband

1. With blue yarn, chain a ring that fits the waist snugly.
2. Work 2 or 3 rounds of sc to create a slim waistband.

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If you prefer, leave a small back opening and fasten with a stitched snap. If the doll is mainly decorative, you can sew the skirt directly to the body after dressing.

Skirt Body

1. Round 1: begin increasing evenly around the waistband.
2. Rounds 2–10: continue in gingham, adding a few increases every other round for a soft flare.

The skirt should reach just above the ankles. It should spread outward gently but still look lightweight. Avoid a stiff circle skirt. This one has a calm A-line drape.

Scalloped Hem

The lower edge has rounded shell-like scallops in blue. This detail is clearly visible and should not be skipped.

1. Work one scallop into every few stitches: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.
2. Repeat around.

Block lightly with your fingers so each scallop is visible and even.

Bonnet

The bonnet is snug to the head, open at the face, and tied under the chin. It also has decorative ruffled side flanges that sit above the ears, giving the bonnet its distinct silhouette.

Main Bonnet Cap

Start at the crown with blue and white gingham. The bonnet should fit close to the head without flattening the ears too tightly.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2 onward: increase in the round until the crown circle matches the top-back of the bunny head.
3. Continue without increasing for several rounds to form the depth of the cap.

Try it on as you go. The bonnet should frame the face and reach down toward the lower sides of the head.

Face Edge

1. Work a final edging round in blue.
2. If desired, add one subtle round of sc in white first, then blue.

This gives the front edge a slightly polished finish.

Side Ruffles

The image shows wing-like ruffled pieces on both sides of the bonnet. These are not large frills. They are small layered side accents.

1. Attach blue yarn near one upper side of the bonnet.
2. Work short rows outward and back, increasing lightly at the outer edge.
3. Repeat for a second small layer if you want more definition.
4. Edge with a row of sc or very small shells.

Make the second side to match exactly.

Bonnet Ties

1. Attach blue yarn at the lower front edge of the bonnet on one side.
2. Chain a tie cord long enough to knot under the chin.
3. Repeat on the other side.

Tie in a soft bow or knot at the neck.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are cream, rounded, and neat, with a strap-like top and a line of little white flower petals along the opening. They fit over the bunny’s feet and look like dainty dress shoes.

Shoe Base

1. With beige yarn, start with a small oval sole matching the foot length.
2. Work 2 or 3 rounds upward without much increase to form the shoe wall.
3. Shape the top opening by working partial rounds across the front and sides, leaving the upper foot visible.

The toe should remain rounded. The back should sit high enough to hold the shoe on the heel.

Flower Trim

The trim looks like small white petals across the front opening.

1. Join white yarn at one side of the shoe opening.
2. Work tiny petal repeats: sl st in a stitch, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st in same stitch or next stitch.
3. Repeat across the front half of the opening.

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Keep the flowers small and delicate. Add a tiny white dot or knot at the side if you want to mimic the little side accent shown in the image.

Purse

The purse is a small cream handbag with a firm rounded body and a tall handle. It is simple and elegant, with no heavy decoration.

1. With beige yarn, make a small oval base.
2. Work upward in sc for several rounds to create a short basket-like body.
3. Flatten the upper opening slightly so the bag has a gentle oval profile.
4. For the handle, chain a strap and attach both ends securely to the top sides.

If you want extra structure, insert a thin flexible wire inside the handle before finishing. This is optional. The bag should stand upright beside the bunny.

Cupcake

The cupcake has a brown base, a swirled cream and pale pink frosting top, and a red cherry.

Cupcake Base

1. With brown yarn, make a small circle.
2. Work up in short rounds with a slight flare at the top.

You can add subtle vertical texture by working occasional BLO rounds or by stitching vertical lines afterward, but keep it simple.

Frosting

1. With cream yarn, make a small rounded cap.
2. Add one narrow pink round in the middle.
3. Top with one final cream point.

Sew the frosting onto the base so it looks stacked and swirled rather than flat.

Cherry

1. With red yarn, make a tiny ball of 4 to 6 stitches.
2. Close and sew to the top.

Lace Mat

The little white cloth in front of the figures resembles a tiny lace handkerchief or doily square. It is small, delicate, and lightly scalloped.

1. With white thread or fine yarn, chain a short foundation.
2. Work a tiny square or rectangle in light openwork using sc and ch spaces.
3. Edge with very small picot-like points or miniature shells.

Keep it flat and fine. It should look airy beside the heavier crochet items.

Miniature Companion

The little companion appears round and hamster-like, with tiny ears, a pale face, a blue gingham hood, a blue gingham dress, and a cupcake held in front. It is an important part of the scene and should be made with the same visual language as the main bunny.

Body and Head in One Piece

Use beige or pale tan yarn for the main body. This figure is compact and egg-shaped.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Increase to form a rounded lower body.
3. Work several rounds even.
4. Decrease slightly near the neck, then increase gently into the head.
5. Work the head as a rounded dome and decrease to close.

Stuff firmly so it stands well.

Face Patch

The muzzle area is lighter than the upper face. You can create this with a sewn-on cream oval patch or with color changes while crocheting the head.

• Place tiny black eyes
• Embroider a tiny pink nose
• Add a very short mouth line

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Ears

1. Make 2 tiny rounded ears in tan or beige.
2. Sew to the top sides of the head.

Dress

The dress is a simple blue gingham skirted piece. Keep it short and flared.

1. Create a narrow upper body band.
2. Increase outward for the skirt.
3. Finish with a simple blue edge.

Bonnet or Hood

The miniature companion wears a soft head covering that echoes the bunny bonnet style. It wraps around the face and ties or closes near the neck.

1. Make a small curved hood panel in blue and white gingham.
2. Fit it around the head, leaving the face open.
3. Sew or tie under the chin.

Arms and Cupcake

1. Make 2 tiny arms in beige or pale pink.
2. Sew them forward-facing so the hands meet at the front.
3. Make a miniature cupcake using the same method as the larger one.
4. Sew the cupcake between the hands.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the bunny legs and body if not already joined
2. Attach the arms
3. Sew the ears
4. Embroider the face
5. Dress the bunny with skirt and blouse
6. Add the neck tie and bonnet
7. Put on the shoes
8. Make and place the purse, cupcake, lace mat, and miniature companion

Take time during assembly. The image has a clean, balanced arrangement, and the final impression depends just as much on placement as on stitch work.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

• Head shape: smooth and round, not square
• Ears: long, soft, and hanging straight down
• Body: slim and elongated
• Blouse: slightly loose with gentle gathering at the neck
• Skirt: flared with a visible scalloped hem
• Bonnet: snug, with side ruffle panels
• Shoes: simple cream with white floral trim
• Gingham: fine-scale blue and white checks, not broad stripes

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew all pieces with matching yarn and small hidden stitches. Check that both ears hang at the same angle and the bonnet frames the face evenly. Position the eyes first, then stitch the nose and mouth carefully so the expression stays calm, sweet, and centered.

Before securing the clothing permanently, dress the bunny fully and view it from the front. Make tiny adjustments to the blouse hem, skirt tilt, and shoe placement so the figure stands balanced and the gingham lines look even.

Care Notes

Keep the finished set away from rough handling, especially the bonnet ties, purse handle, and cupcake cherry. If the doll is used as display decor, occasional light dusting will usually be enough to keep it looking fresh.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both eyes aligned evenly
• Nose and mouth centered
• Ears attached at matching height
• Bonnet tied neatly under the chin
• Blouse covering the waist cleanly
• Skirt hem level all the way around
• Shoes fitted firmly
• Purse handle secured
• Cupcake pieces sewn tightly
• Miniature companion standing steadily

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with a barely damp cloth and mild soap if needed. Do not scrub the embroidered face or gingham sections harshly. Blot excess moisture with a towel and let everything air dry fully away from direct heat or strong sunlight.

For long-term storage, keep the set in a clean dry container with tissue support around delicate accessories. Avoid compressing the bonnet ruffles, skirt scallops, and purse handle. If displayed on a shelf, rotate the figure occasionally so dust and sunlight do not affect one side more than the other.