This soft bunny doll is designed with a calm heirloom look that feels perfect for nursery decor, handmade gift shopping, collectible rabbit dolls, boutique stuffed animals, and seasonal spring display pieces. The main bunny wears a ruffled bonnet, a cream collar, a blue checked bodice, a dusty pink skirt with flowing leaf trim, and brown Mary Jane shoes. The set also includes a flower purse, a tiny companion bunny, a small knitted square, and a little flower bouquet. Every detail is shaped to match the photo closely while staying approachable for careful beginners and enjoyable for experienced knitters.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- DK weight yarn in warm beige for the bunny head, ears, hands, and tiny bunny head
- DK weight yarn in soft cream for legs, sleeves, collar, ruffle trim, leaf appliqués, purse edging, and tiny bunny body accents
- DK weight yarn in dusty rose for the skirt and tiny bunny skirt
- DK weight yarn in pale sky blue for the bodice and tiny bunny bodice stripe
- DK weight yarn in honey yellow for the bonnet ruffle and tiny bunny bonnet
- DK weight yarn in medium brown for shoes
- Small amounts of pastel pink, lilac, mint, pale yellow, and white for the purse flower and bouquet
- 2.5 mm straight needles or double-pointed needles
- 3 mm needles if you prefer a slightly softer fabric for accessories only
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers
- Fine black embroidery thread for eyes
- Dark brown embroidery thread for nose and mouth
- Toy stuffing
- Thin cardboard or plastic canvas scraps for optional shoe sole support
- Soft craft wire only if you want poseable flower stems, optional
- Small snaps or a few hidden stitches for removable pieces, optional
Finished Size
The main bunny is approximately 14 to 16 inches tall from the top of the bonnet ruffle to the bottom of the shoes, depending on your exact tension.
The tiny bunny is approximately 4 to 5 inches tall.
The purse is about 2 inches across. The small square cloth is about 1.75 inches wide. The bouquet is about 2.5 inches long.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for a decorative toy, but firm fabric is important. Aim for a dense stockinette that does not show stuffing through the stitches.
- 28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette on 2.5 mm needles
- If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size
- If your fabric feels stiff and hard to shape, go up slightly for clothing only
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- K = knit
- P = purl
- St st = stockinette stitch
- Garter = knit every row
- kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- p2tog = purl 2 together
- yo = yarn over
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- BO = bind off
Design Notes
The bunny in the photo has a gentle oval head, narrow shoulders, long straight limbs, drooping ears, and a softly gathered skirt that sits high on the waist. The clothing is delicate rather than bulky, so keep seams neat and avoid overstuffing.
The face is very simple. Small slanted black eyes sit far apart. The nose is a tiny Y shape, with a short vertical line and soft angled mouth. This minimal expression is what gives the bunny its quiet, vintage feel.
The bodice appears to be worked in a small checked texture. To imitate the look, this pattern uses a tiny alternating slipped-stitch grid. The skirt trim is made separately and then sewn in a curved diagonal sweep across the front.
Main Bunny Legs
Make 2 in cream, beginning at the sole end. The legs are slim tubes with light shaping, ending at the upper thigh where they join the body area under the skirt.
- CO 14 sts.
- Work 4 rows in garter.
- Change to St st and work 18 rows.
- Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 16 sts.
- Work 10 rows even.
- Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 18 sts.
- Work 16 rows even.
- Decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 16 sts.
- Work 8 rows even.
- Leave stitches live or place on holder.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Stuff the lower leg firmly and the upper part only lightly. You want the legs to sit straight and flat under the skirt.
Main Bunny Shoes
Make 2 in medium brown. These are stitched over the lower foot area and shaped like simple Mary Jane shoes with a narrow strap.
- CO 14 sts.
- Work 2 rows garter.
- Work 10 rows in St st.
- Toe shaping row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 12 sts.
- Purl 1 row.
- Repeat the shaping row once more. 10 sts.
- Work 4 rows even.
- BO knitwise.
Sew each shoe piece around the lower foot, placing the cast-on edge near the sole. Add a tiny gathered seam at the toe to round it. For the strap, CO 10 sts and work 2 rows garter. BO. Sew each strap across the instep, anchoring at both sides with a tiny decorative knot or stitched nub to imitate the small side button.
Main Bunny Body
The body is narrow and mostly hidden by the dress, but it must support the silhouette. Work the torso in one flat piece pair or in the round. The flat method is given below because it is easier to control for new knitters.
Front Body
- CO 18 sts in warm beige.
- Work 6 rows St st, beginning with a purl row.
- Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
- Work 8 rows even.
- Increase row as before. 22 sts.
- Work 12 rows even.
- Shape underarms: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 18 sts.
- Work 14 rows even.
- Neck row: K7, BO 4, K7.
- Work each side separately for 4 rows, decreasing 1 st at neck edge once.
- BO shoulder sts.
Back Body
- Work as for front through row 8 of shaping.
- Work 18 rows even after armhole shaping.
- BO all sts.
Sew shoulders and side seams later. Before closing fully, insert the top of each leg evenly along the lower body edge. The legs should sit parallel with a small gap between them.
Main Bunny Arms
Make 2. The hands are beige and the sleeves are cream, matching the image where the arm ends show a soft beige paw area.
- CO 10 sts in warm beige.
- Work 8 rows St st.
- Change to cream.
- Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
- Work 22 rows even.
- Next row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
- Work 4 rows even.
- BO.
Sew each arm into a tube. Stuff the hand and lower sleeve lightly, leaving the top section softer so it lies naturally against the body. Sew the arms low on the shoulder line so they angle gently downward just as in the image.
Main Bunny Head
The head is the most important shaping piece. It is softly rounded with a mild muzzle built through seam placement and stuffing rather than strong short-row sculpting. Make one front and one back in warm beige.
Head Front
- CO 18 sts.
- Purl 1 row.
- Increase row: K1, kfb across row to last st, K1. 34 sts.
- Purl 1 row.
- Next increase row: K1, kfb, knit 1, rep across to last st, K1. 50 sts.
- Work 20 rows St st even.
- Decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 48 sts.
- Work 1 purl row.
- Repeat decrease row every RS row 10 more times until 28 sts remain.
- Work 2 rows even.
- Continue decreasing every RS row until 14 sts remain.
- Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Head Back
Work exactly as for front.
Sew the head around the sides, leaving the lower edge open. Stuff carefully. Build a slightly fuller cheek and muzzle area by placing extra stuffing in the lower front center. Do not overfill the crown.
Main Bunny Ears
Make 2 in warm beige. These ears are long, soft, and lightly flattened. They fall down along both sides of the head, with one ear slightly more visible.
- CO 8 sts.
- Purl 1 row.
- Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
- Work 6 rows even.
- Increase row as before. 12 sts.
- Work 10 rows even.
- Increase row as before. 14 sts.
- Work 16 rows even.
- Decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 12 sts.
- Work 6 rows even.
- Decrease row as before. 10 sts.
- Work 4 rows even.
- Decrease row as before. 8 sts.
- Work 2 rows even.
- BO.
Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly and seam. Do not stuff. Flatten with your fingers and attach high on the head, then let them drape down behind the collar and bonnet.
Attaching Head to Body
Stuff the body to a medium firmness. Place the head low enough that the collar can cover the join. Sew strongly all around. Check that the head faces forward with only the slightest downward tilt for the gentle expression seen in the photo.
Facial Features
Mark the eye placement before stitching. The eyes are small and narrow, placed well apart, slightly above the muzzle midpoint.
- Eyes: use black thread and make 3 to 4 small satin stitches for each eye, angled slightly upward toward the outer edge
- Nose: use dark brown thread and stitch a tiny upside-down triangle or short Y shape
- Mouth: extend one short line downward, then split into two tiny angled stitches
After embroidering, gently pinch the muzzle with your fingers so the nose sits in a soft point rather than on a flat surface.
Bonnet Base
The bonnet frames the face closely and sits above the ears. The visible part is the soft yellow ruffle around the front opening, while the base can be beige or cream. This version uses a cream base and yellow ruffle to match the image tone.
- CO 48 sts in cream.
- Work 8 rows garter.
- Work 10 rows St st.
- Shape crown row: K2, k2tog across. 36 sts.
- Purl 1 row.
- K1, k2tog across. 24 sts.
- Purl 1 row.
- K2tog across. 12 sts.
- Thread yarn through sts and gather.
Sew the back seam to create a shallow cap. Test it on the head before adding ties.
Bonnet Ruffle
This trim must look full, uneven, and softly wavy rather than sharply frilled.
- With honey yellow, pick up 72 sts evenly around the front bonnet edge.
- Row 1: Purl.
- Row 2: Kfb in every stitch. 144 sts.
- Row 3: Purl.
- Row 4: Knit.
- Row 5: Purl.
- BO loosely knitwise.
Steam very lightly or finger-shape so the ruffle ripples outward. Do not flatten it. The edge should surround the face like a soft flower.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Bonnet Ties
- CO 24 sts in honey yellow for each tie
- Work 2 rows garter
- BO
Sew to the lower bonnet edges and tie loosely under the chin.
Collar
The collar is broad, cream, and rounded with eyelet scallop detail along the outer edge. Make 2 mirrored pieces.
- CO 18 sts in cream.
- Work 2 rows garter.
- Row 3 RS: K1, yo, k2tog, knit to end.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5: K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 19 sts.
- Row 6: Purl.
- Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more to widen the outer edge gradually. 23 sts.
- Work 4 rows even, keeping the eyelet row every other RS row if desired.
- Begin shaping point: On RS rows, K1, ssk, knit to end.
- On every alternate RS row also decrease 1 st at outer edge by knitting to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.
- Continue until 10 sts remain.
- BO.
Make the second collar piece as a mirror by placing the increases and decreases on opposite edges. Sew both at the neck so they overlap slightly in front, creating the wide petal collar shape shown in the photo.
Bodice
The bodice is sleeveless in appearance, sitting under the collar with a pale blue and cream checked texture. You may either knit it separately and sew onto the body, or knit it as a fitted tube around the torso. The overlay method gives the neatest result.
Checked Stitch Pattern
Over an even number of stitches:
- Row 1 RS: K1 cream, K1 blue, rep across
- Row 2 WS: Purl in colors as they appear
- Row 3 RS: Slip 1 wyib in cream, K1 blue, rep across
- Row 4 WS: Purl in colors as they appear
- Repeat these 4 rows
If you prefer easier color handling, work the whole piece in blue and add the cream vertical bars afterward with duplicate stitch.
Bodice Piece
- CO 30 sts.
- Work 16 rows in the checked pattern.
- Work 2 rows in cream garter for the upper edge.
- BO loosely.
Wrap around the upper body just below the collar. Overlap at the back and sew neatly. The bottom edge should tuck under the waistband of the skirt.
Skirt
The skirt is dusty pink, full but not bulky, and finishes just above the ankles. It has a cream ruffled hem and cream leaf vine details applied afterward. Work flat for easiest shaping and back closure.
- CO 72 sts in dusty rose.
- Work 4 rows K1, P1 rib.
- Increase row: Kfb every 4th st across. 90 sts.
- Work 28 rows St st.
- Increase row: Kfb every 6th st across. 105 sts.
- Work 20 more rows St st.
- Change to cream.
- Work 1 purl row.
- Ruffle row RS: Kfb in every stitch. 210 sts.
- Work 4 rows garter.
- BO loosely.
Gather the top edge slightly to fit the waist. Sew the skirt around the body with the opening at the back. Keep the waist high, almost empire-style, as shown in the image.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Diagonal Front Ruffle
This separate cream strip gives the skirt its distinctive sweeping movement. It starts higher at the bunny’s right waist and curves downward across the front.
- CO 48 sts in cream.
- Work 2 rows garter.
- Row 3: Kfb in every stitch. 96 sts.
- Work 4 more rows garter.
- BO loosely.
Lightly gather one long edge with sewing thread. Pin the strip diagonally across the front of the skirt in a curved S shape. The upper end begins near the right side waist. The lower end trails toward the center front hem. Sew in place invisibly along the gathered edge.
Leaf Vine Appliqués
The cream vines are essential to the final look. They soften the pink skirt and frame the diagonal ruffle. Make one long vine for the hem, one long curved vine for the diagonal line, and a few smaller leafy offshoots.
Leaf I-Cord Vine
- CO 3 sts in cream
- Work I-cord for desired length
Make one piece about 15 inches long for the main hem vine and one piece about 10 inches long for the diagonal vine. Leave long tails for sewing.
Small Leaves
Make many. Each leaf is tiny and almond shaped.
- CO 3 sts in cream.
- Row 1: Kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts.
- Row 2: Purl.
- Row 3: Ssk, K1, k2tog. 3 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- BO.
Make 22 to 28 leaves for the large bunny skirt. Sew them in pairs along both sides of the vines, angling them outward. Space them evenly. Keep the look delicate rather than crowded.
Sew one long vine sweeping near the lower hem from left to right. Then sew the diagonal vine following the edge of the cream front ruffle. Add a few extra leaf sprigs where needed so the decoration matches the photo balance.
Flower Purse
The purse is a small pastel flower with five rounded petals and a soft loop handle. It hangs beside the bunny’s left side in the photo.
Petals
Make 5 small petals in soft pastel shades, alternating pale pink, lilac, and cream if desired.
- CO 6 sts.
- Work 2 rows St st.
- Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 8 sts.
- Work 2 rows even.
- Decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 6 sts.
- Work 1 row.
- BO.
Make one small round center in pale yellow by CO 6 sts, work a few rows, then gather into a circle. Sew the petals around it, slightly overlapping.
Back Circle
- CO 24 sts in cream
- Work 8 rows St st
- BO
Gather into a shallow circle and sew behind the flower front. Add a thin pastel cord handle by twisting strands together or knitting an I-cord about 8 inches long. Attach securely.
Mini Bunny
The tiny companion bunny mirrors the main bunny in simplified form. It has beige ears and head, a yellow bonnet ruffle, a pale blue top, and a tiny pink skirt with striped color variation.
Mini Legs and Body
- CO 8 sts in beige for each leg.
- Work 10 rows St st.
- Leave live.
- Join the two legs onto one needle with 4 extra sts cast on between them. 20 sts.
- Work 10 rows even for lower body.
- Change to pale blue and work 6 rows.
- Change to dusty rose and work 8 rows.
- BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows for arm area. 16 sts.
- Work 8 rows even.
- BO center 4 sts for neck and finish shoulders separately over 2 rows.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Mini Arms
- CO 6 sts in cream
- Work 10 rows St st
- BO
Mini Head
- CO 12 sts in beige.
- Increase evenly across next RS row to 20 sts.
- Work 10 rows even.
- Decrease 1 st each side every RS row until 8 sts remain.
- Gather top.
Mini Ears
- CO 5 sts in beige
- Work 10 rows St st
- BO
Sew and lightly stuff the mini bunny. Add tiny stitched eyes and a simple nose. Make a small yellow ruffle strip by CO 20 sts, kfb across, work 2 rows garter, and BO. Sew around the head like a miniature bonnet frame. Tie with short cords if desired.
Mini Bunny Skirt Color Effect
To imitate the soft striped blend in the image, work the mini skirt with alternating rows of dusty rose, cream, and a touch of muted mustard or blue scrap yarn. Keep the effect subtle. The tiny skirt should look handmade and slightly playful, not perfectly matched.
Small Knitted Square
This tiny piece resembles a folded washcloth or mini cushion with a pastel flower motif.
- CO 14 sts in cream.
- Work 18 rows in garter.
- BO.
Using duplicate stitch, add a thin pastel border in pink and blue around the edge. In the center, embroider or duplicate-stitch a simple flower with green stem, pink petals, and a small yellow middle.
Bouquet
The bouquet includes several small flowers tied together with green stems. Use knitted petals or tiny embroidered flat shapes.
Simple Flower Petals
- CO 3 sts in chosen petal color
- Row 1: Kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts
- Row 2: Purl
- Row 3: K2tog, K1, ssk. 3 sts
- BO
Make 4 petals for each flower. Create one white flower with yellow center, one pink flower, one lilac flower, and one pale blue flower if desired. Sew petals around a tiny center knot.
For stems, make short green I-cords or twist green yarn tightly. Gather the stems and wrap with extra green yarn. The bouquet should stay petite so it looks proportional beside the main bunny.
Putting the Clothing in Order
- Sew and stuff the bunny body, legs, arms, head, and ears
- Attach the head and ears
- Embroider the face
- Fit and sew the checked bodice around the torso
- Attach the collar at the neckline
- Sew the skirt at the waist
- Add the diagonal cream ruffle to the front of the skirt
- Sew on all leaf vines and leaves
- Add the shoes and straps
- Place the bonnet on the head and secure lightly behind the ears if needed
- Finish all accessories
Styling Notes for an Accurate Look
- Keep the bunny slim and elongated rather than round and plush
- Do not overstuff the arms or ears
- The collar should sit wide and flat, not stiffly upright
- The skirt must flare softly with most fullness in the lower half
- The cream diagonal ruffle should be clearly raised from the pink fabric
- The bonnet ruffle should frame the face in a gentle, uneven wave
- The eyes must stay very small or the expression will change too much
- The accessories should look sweet and delicate, not oversized
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Once every piece is attached, sit the bunny flat and check the balance from the front. Adjust the collar points so they match. Reposition the bonnet slightly forward so the yellow ruffle hugs the face.
Stitch the eyes only after the bonnet is tested in place. The face should remain minimal. A tiny nose and short mouth are enough. If you add blush, keep it extremely faint.
Care Notes
Display the bunny away from strong sunlight to protect the pastel shades. If the set is mainly decorative, handle the purse, bouquet, and mini bunny gently so small sewn details stay secure.
For gifting, wrap the accessories separately so the bonnet ruffle and leaf appliqués do not crush in storage or shipping.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head centered and slightly forward
- Ears draping evenly
- Eyes small and symmetrical
- Collar points matched
- Bodice sitting smooth under collar
- Skirt gathered evenly at waist
- Diagonal cream ruffle placed on the correct curve
- Leaf vines sewn securely
- Shoe straps aligned evenly
- Accessories sized smaller than the hand area
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean first with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Blot gently and avoid soaking the stuffed areas. Reshape while drying flat on a towel.
If deeper cleaning is needed, hand wash only in cool water. Do not twist or wring. Press out moisture with towels, then air dry fully. Keep metal parts, cardboard inserts, and wired stems dry.
Store in a breathable cotton bag or display case. Avoid plastic boxes in humid spaces. To preserve the ruffle and collar, fill the bonnet and skirt lightly with tissue when storing for long periods.


