Sweater-Drape Trenchling Bunny – Knitting

This charming knitted set brings together everything shoppers love in a collectible heirloom toy: a softly shaped bunny, a tailored double-breasted coat, a striped dress, lace-up shoes, a newsboy cap, and tiny outing accessories. It has the polished look of a boutique stuffed animal, a handmade nursery gift, and a collectible rabbit doll all at once. If you enjoy making pieces that look ready for an artisan market, gift shop, baby shower, or seasonal handmade collection, this design gives you a complete wardrobe and display scene in one coordinated project.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates the full scene shown in the image: a seated long-eared bunny with a calm embroidered face, a navy-and-cream vertically striped dress, a camel trench coat with lapels and double-breasted button placement, a brown tweed-style newsboy cap, and brown lace-up shoes.

The set also includes the small companion puppy dressed in a matching coat, striped body section, and cap, plus the extra accessories placed beside the bunny: a knitted olive backpack, a takeaway coffee cup, and dark sunglasses.

The overall style depends on smooth stockinette fabric, neat shaping, careful stuffing, and tidy finishing. Most pieces are worked flat and seamed, though you may adapt them to your preferred method if your gauge and shaping remain consistent.

The bunny in the photo has a tall seated proportion. The head is large and rounded, the torso is slim and straight, the legs are long and narrow, the arms are medium length, and the ears are long, flat, and softly draped downward from the sides of the cap.

The coat is important to the final look. It is not oversized in a sloppy way. Instead, it hangs with a neat shoulder line, modest ease through the body, and a lower hem that reaches just above the bunny’s knees when seated.

Materials

• DK weight yarn in warm ivory for bunny body
• DK weight yarn in camel or sand for trench coat
• DK weight yarn in deep navy for dress stripes and small details
• DK weight yarn in cream or ivory for dress base
• DK weight yarn in medium brown for shoes
• DK weight yarn in tweed brown or heather brown for cap
• DK weight yarn in olive green for backpack
• Small amounts of white, tan, black, and dark brown for coffee cup, sunglasses, and puppy details
• Knitting needles suitable for DK yarn, plus a smaller needle if you prefer firmer fabric for accessories
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Waste yarn
• Toy stuffing
• Small buttons for coat and cuffs
• Black embroidery thread or fine black yarn for face details

Gauge and Fabric Notes

Use a firm gauge so the stuffing does not show through. The fabric in the image is smooth, dense, and even. If your knitting tends to be loose, go down a needle size. A snug fabric gives the toy its polished shape and keeps the face from stretching after assembly.

The outfit is fitted to the finished bunny, so check your body gauge before knitting the wardrobe. If the bunny grows taller or wider than planned, the coat lapels and dress width will not sit the same way as in the image.

For the best visual match, keep the body yarn matte and soft, the trench coat yarn smooth and structured, and the cap yarn slightly textured or tweedy. The contrast between these surfaces helps the finished set look realistic and layered.

Finished Size

The main bunny is approximately 11 to 13 inches tall when seated with legs extended downward. The head takes up about one third of the visible height, the body another third, and the remaining third is shared by the long legs and shoes.

The puppy is much smaller, about one third of the bunny’s total height. It should look like a tiny companion toy rather than a second equal-sized doll. Keep the puppy compact and rounded.

Abbreviations

• K: knit
• P: purl
• Sts: stitches
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• Inc: increase 1 stitch
• Dec: decrease 1 stitch
• K2tog: knit 2 together
• P2tog: purl 2 together
• SSK: slip, slip, knit
• BO: bind off
• CO: cast on

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Main Bunny Body

Legs Make 2

Each leg is long, straight, and lightly stuffed. The lower part is narrow and even, without chunky thigh shaping. This is one reason the seated silhouette looks elegant in the photo.

1. CO 16 sts in ivory.
2. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib.
3. Change to stockinette and work 26 rows straight.
4. Inc 1 st at each end of next row. Work 5 rows.
5. Inc 1 st at each end of next row. Work 5 rows.
6. You should now have a gentle upper-leg widening. Work 6 more rows straight.
7. BO loosely, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Fold each leg lengthwise and seam. Stuff lightly, keeping the leg flexible rather than stiff. The leg should flatten a little when pressed. Do not overstuff, or the shoes will look too small later.

Body

The torso is softly rectangular with slight tapering at the neck. It is not a round tummy shape. The front looks smooth under the dress, and the coat sits cleanly because the body remains fairly slim.

1. CO 28 sts in ivory.
2. Work in stockinette for 8 rows.
3. Inc 1 st at each end of next RS row. Work 5 rows.
4. Repeat the increase row once more. You now have 32 sts.
5. Work 18 rows straight.
6. Dec 1 st at each end of next RS row. Work 3 rows.
7. Repeat the decrease row twice more to shape the upper torso. You now have 26 sts.
8. Work 8 rows straight.
9. BO, leaving a long tail.

Make a second body piece the same way. Seam sides and lower edge, insert the tops of the legs evenly across the bottom, then close securely. Stuff firmly at the lower body and slightly less firmly toward the neck.

Arms Make 2

The arms are medium length and slim, with only a little shaping. They hang naturally beside the coat and do not project outward stiffly.

1. CO 14 sts in ivory.
2. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib.
3. Change to stockinette and work 18 rows straight.
4. Inc 1 st at each end of next row.
5. Work 4 rows.
6. BO.

Seam each arm, stuff lightly, and flatten the top edge. Leave enough flexibility so the sleeve can slide over it comfortably.

Head

The head is rounded, slightly wider than tall, with a soft muzzle area formed mostly by shaping and embroidery rather than a separate protruding snout. The face is simple, calm, and symmetrical.

1. CO 20 sts in ivory.
2. Work 4 rows stockinette.
3. Inc 1 st at each end of next RS row.
4. Work 1 WS row.
5. Repeat the increase row 6 more times. You now have 34 sts.
6. Work 18 rows straight.
7. Dec 1 st at each end of next RS row.
8. Work 1 WS row.
9. Repeat the decrease row 6 more times until 20 sts remain.
10. Work 3 rows.
11. BO.

Make 2 head pieces. Before closing completely, stuff the head firmly but not hard. Shape the cheeks gently with your fingers. The head should look smooth from the front and slightly domed on top under the cap.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, wide at the top, and softly tapered toward rounded ends. In the image they fall straight down from beneath the cap, touching the coat shoulder area.

1. CO 12 sts in ivory.
2. Work 6 rows stockinette.
3. Inc 1 st at each end of next RS row.
4. Repeat every 4th row 3 times more. You now have 20 sts.
5. Work 22 rows straight.
6. Dec 1 st at each end of next RS row.
7. Repeat every 4th row 4 times.
8. When 10 sts remain, work 4 rows straight.
9. Dec at each end of every RS row until 4 sts remain.
10. BO.

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Make 2 ear pieces for each ear if you want extra thickness, or use one layer and seam carefully. Do not stuff. Press lightly with your fingers and leave them flat so they drape naturally.

Facial Placement

The eyes in the image are tiny, vertical, and set fairly wide apart. They are not large safety eyes. Use small embroidered satin stitches or tiny black knots placed high on the face, around the midpoint from crown to chin.

The nose is a short inverted triangle in dark brown or black. From the bottom point of the nose, embroider a short vertical line, then split into a soft Y shape for the mouth. Keep the expression gentle and minimal.

For the slight muzzle indentation, run a thread horizontally under the nose area and pull very gently. This creates the subtle shaping seen in the photo without making a large protruding snout.

Striped Dress

The dress is simple and straight, with vertical navy stripes over a cream background. It reads like a sleeveless pinafore or soft sweater-dress beneath the coat. It is visible at the neckline, body center, and hem.

To imitate the narrow stripe pattern, work a repeating sequence in stockinette with small columns of navy. Keep the dress fitted enough that the coat can close over it.

1. Using cream, CO 26 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib.
3. Begin stripe sequence: K2 cream, K1 navy, K2 cream, K1 navy across row.
4. On WS rows, purl stitches in their working color.
5. Continue in this stripe pattern for 26 rows.
6. For arm shaping, BO 2 sts at the start of the next 2 rows.
7. Work 8 rows straight in pattern.
8. Shape neckline by binding off the center 8 sts and finishing each side separately.
9. Work 4 rows each shoulder, then BO.

Work the back the same way, but with a shallower neckline. Seam shoulders and sides. The dress should fit close to the body without bunching. If preferred, leave a back opening of a few rows for easier dressing.

Trench Coat

The trench coat defines the whole outfit. It is camel colored, knee length on the seated bunny, double-breasted, and finished with lapels, collar shaping, and cuff tabs with small buttons. The coat has structure, but it still looks soft and knitted.

Back

1. CO 34 sts in camel.
2. Work 6 rows in garter stitch for the hem edge.
3. Change to stockinette and work 10 rows straight.
4. Inc 1 st at each end of next RS row for slight sweep.
5. Work 8 rows.
6. Inc 1 st at each end again. Work until piece measures from shoulder to hem slightly longer than the dress.
7. Shape armholes by BO 2 sts at start of next 2 rows.
8. Dec 1 st at each end of next RS row. Repeat once.
9. Work straight to shoulder level.
10. BO 8 sts at each shoulder and 14 center sts for back neck.

Left Front

1. CO 22 sts in camel.
2. Work 6 rows garter stitch.
3. Continue with first 4 sts in garter for front band and remaining sts in stockinette.
4. Work straight for 10 rows.
5. Inc 1 st at side edge. Work 8 rows.
6. Inc 1 st at side edge again.
7. Continue until matching back to armhole.
8. Shape armhole at side edge to match back.
9. For lapel roll, after armhole shaping, work a short-row style effect or simply switch the front band to 6 garter sts and decrease at neck edge every 4th row 4 times.
10. At shoulder level, BO shoulder sts. Continue remaining front-band and lapel sts for a few rows, then sew onto back neck to form collar extension.

Right Front

Work as for left front, reversing shaping. Add six button placements spaced evenly in two vertical columns once coat assembly is complete. In the photo, the coat shows a classic double-breasted arrangement, but not every visible button must function.

Sleeves Make 2

The sleeves are straight and slightly roomy, ending in rolled cuffs with a tiny tab and button.

1. CO 18 sts in camel.
2. Work stockinette for 8 rows.
3. Inc 1 st at each end of next RS row.
4. Repeat every 6th row 3 times.
5. Work until sleeve length reaches wrist on your bunny arm.
6. Shape cap very gently by BO 2 sts at start of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st each end every RS row 4 times.
7. BO remaining sts.

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Seam sleeves, insert over arms, then attach to coat armholes. Turn back the cuff edge once and tack in place. Add a narrow tab strip over the outer cuff with a tiny button to match the image.

Lapels and Collar Finishing

The lapels in the image are medium width and sit open in a soft V. They are not sharply tailored like a woven trench. Pick up stitches along each front edge if needed and work 2 to 4 rows garter to stabilize the opening.

At the neckline, fold the extended band sections outward into lapels. Stitch the base of each lapel lightly so they angle outward and stay flat. The collar should sit close to the neck and frame the striped dress underneath.

Button Placement

Use six small buttons on the front in two columns of three, plus one smaller button on each cuff tab. In the photo, the buttons are subtle and closely matched to the coat color, which keeps the coat elegant rather than busy.

Newsboy Cap

The cap is rounded and softly puffed at the crown, with a short brim across the forehead. It sits low enough to hide the ear attachment points while still leaving the face fully visible.

Crown

1. CO 12 sts in tweed brown.
2. Inc 1 st at each end of every RS row until 30 sts.
3. Work 12 rows straight.
4. Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row until 14 sts remain.
5. BO.

Make 4 crown wedges and seam into a puffed dome, or knit a wider single piece if that is your preferred cap construction. Lightly stuff only the tiniest amount if needed, but usually shaping by seams is enough.

Brim

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Work 6 rows garter.
3. Inc 1 st at each end on row 3 if you want a slightly fuller brim.
4. BO.

Stitch the brim to the front lower edge of the crown. Gather the crown slightly where it meets the brim so it puffs above it. The cap should cover the top of the head and overlap the ear roots.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are low, rounded, and softly structured, like lace-up leather shoes translated into knitting. They are medium brown and slightly wider at the toe than at the ankle.

1. CO 14 sts in brown.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Increase to 18 sts over next 2 RS rows for toe width.
4. Work 8 rows stockinette.
5. Begin instep shaping by working K2tog near each side on every RS row 3 times.
6. Work 4 rows straight.
7. BO.

Seam into a soft shoe shape around the lower leg. Add a separate narrow cord or twisted strand for laces. Tie a bow at the front center of each shoe, matching the image closely.

Olive Backpack

The backpack sits beside the bunny and is small but clearly structured, with a front flap and narrow shoulder straps. It adds scale and storytelling, so it is worth finishing neatly.

1. CO 16 sts in olive.
2. Work 20 rows stockinette for main panel.
3. Make a second matching panel.
4. For side gusset, CO 6 sts and work a strip long enough to go around sides and bottom.
5. For flap, CO 12 sts and work 8 rows, then dec each end every RS row twice.
6. For straps, make 2 narrow i-cords or knitted cords.

Assemble as a small box pouch. Attach flap at the top back, straps to the rear panel, and a tiny loop or nub at center front. Keep it softly stuffed or leave empty if you want it to sit flatter.

Coffee Cup

The cup is tiny and quick. It has a white lid, a tan sleeve, and a pale body. Even though it is small, it should be cleanly shaped because it sits near the front of the arrangement.

1. CO 10 sts in cream.
2. Work 6 rows stockinette.
3. Change to tan for 4 rows for sleeve.
4. Change to white for 2 rows.
5. BO and seam into a cylinder.

Stuff very lightly or roll a small piece of scrap yarn inside. Pull the top closed slightly to create a lid effect. Add a tiny raised nub at center if desired.

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Sunglasses

The sunglasses are dark, low, and rounded into a cat-eye inspired shape. Because they are tiny, avoid overcomplication. The goal is a recognizable silhouette rather than wearable precision.

1. Knit 2 tiny almond-shaped lens pieces in black or very dark navy.
2. Join them with a short bridge stitch.
3. Add a thin strand at each outer edge for arms.

Lightly tack the arms backward so the glasses can rest on the table surface without springing open awkwardly. These may also be made from tightly wrapped yarn if that gives a cleaner result.

Mini Puppy Companion

The puppy is small, squat, and adorable, with floppy brown ears, a pale face, a dark nose, and the same general wardrobe language as the bunny. It wears a tiny striped body section under a short camel coat and a matching cap.

Puppy Body

1. CO 14 sts in cream.
2. Work 6 rows stockinette.
3. Inc 1 st at each end of next RS row.
4. Work 8 rows.
5. Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row twice.
6. Work 4 rows.
7. BO.

Make 2 pieces and seam, stuffing firmly enough to hold a seated shape. The puppy should look rounded and compact, not long-bodied.

Puppy Head

1. CO 12 sts in cream.
2. Increase at each end of every RS row until 22 sts.
3. Work 10 rows straight.
4. Decrease at each end of every RS row until 12 sts.
5. BO.

Make 2 and seam. The muzzle is tiny. Embroider a small dark triangular nose low on the face with tiny black eyes above it. Keep the expression simple.

Puppy Ears

Make 2 in dark brown. CO 6 sts, increase to 10 sts, work 8 rows, then decrease back to 4 sts. Seam lightly if desired and stitch to the head so they flop down beside the cap.

Puppy Legs

Make 4 tiny tubes or flat pieces in cream, short and rounded. These should barely peek from the outfit, especially the front legs. Keep them small so the puppy looks plush and toy-like.

Puppy Outfit

For the striped underlayer, use the same cream-and-navy stripe idea as the bunny dress, but much shorter and narrower. For the coat, make mini fronts and a back in camel, with a few embroidered button dots instead of real buttons if preferred.

The puppy cap is a tiny version of the bunny cap. Keep the brim shallow and the crown softly puffed. It should sit between the floppy ears and repeat the same brown tweed look.

Assembly Order

Assembling in the right order helps keep the silhouette clean. First finish the main bunny body completely. Then dress the bunny in the striped dress. After that, attach the head if you prefer to check neckline placement with the dress already on.

Next add the ears so they fall straight from the sides of the head. Then place the cap over the ear roots. After that, fit the coat and stitch the front lapels into their final position only after confirming the dress still shows clearly beneath.

Attach the arms either before or after dressing, depending on your favorite method. In this image, the sleeves fall smoothly from the shoulders and the cuffs sit at wrist level, so test sleeve length before fixing permanently.

Finally, add the shoes, then arrange the accessories. The backpack sits to the bunny’s left. The coffee cup sits in front of the backpack. The sunglasses lie low and slightly forward. The puppy sits on the bunny’s right side.

Shaping Notes for an Accurate Look

• Keep the bunny head full and round, but not oversized like a cartoon.
• Do not overstuff the neck area. A slightly softer neck allows the head to settle naturally under the cap.
• Flatten the ears gently with your fingers after seaming.
• Keep the body slender so the coat hangs vertically.
• Make the dress narrow enough that the vertical stripes stay straight.
• Do not make the coat too flared. The front edges should fall almost straight.
• Place the shoes slightly outward at the toes for the same relaxed seated posture seen in the image.

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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Join the head securely to the body using strong matching yarn and small stitches worked all the way around the neck. Check the face from the front before closing the final gap so the head does not tilt to one side.

Embroider the eyes first, then the nose, then the mouth. If needed, add one tiny anchoring stitch at each cheek to create soft contour. Stitch the ears beneath the cap line so the cap hides the attachment neatly.

Dress the bunny fully before sewing the coat front permanently. This lets you position the lapels and button columns with the striped dress centered exactly as shown. For the puppy, keep all details tiny and restrained.

Care Notes

Display this set away from heavy moisture and direct sunlight. Gentle spot cleaning is best for the coat, cap, and accessories. If the toy is meant for display, avoid frequent redressing, which can loosen seams over time.

Store the sunglasses and coffee cup in a small fabric pouch when not displayed, since these tiny pieces can catch or bend easily. Keep the backpack empty if storing long term so it keeps its shape.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and securely attached
• Ears even in length and placed symmetrically
• Eyes level and small
• Nose centered above the mouth split
• Dress stripes vertical and visible at neckline and hem
• Coat lapels folded evenly
• Buttons aligned in neat double-breasted rows
• Shoe bows tied evenly
• Cap brim centered above the eyes
• Puppy scaled noticeably smaller than the bunny
• Backpack, cup, and sunglasses finished and arranged

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For routine care, dust lightly with clean dry hands or a very soft brush. If needed, spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap, then blot with a towel and air dry flat. Do not soak stuffed pieces unless absolutely necessary.

If deeper cleaning is required, remove any detachable accessories first. Support the toy while cleaning so stretched knitting does not distort. Reshape the head, ears, coat lapels, and shoes while damp, then let the set dry completely before handling.

For long-term preservation, wrap the set in acid-free tissue or clean cotton and store it flat in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags for long storage in humid spaces. Keep dark accessories separated from the ivory body to prevent color transfer.