Iris Moonlace Bunny – Crochet

This sweet handmade crochet bunny set brings together a soft doll, a richly textured outfit, a tiny owl friend, a rounded handbag, and an iris stem in calm lavender and sage tones. It has the look of a collectible amigurumi bunny doll, a handmade nursery display, and a thoughtful crochet gift for spring decor lovers.

With its lace-style skirt panel, petal flower trim, matching bonnet, and coordinated accessories, this design feels polished and boutique-ready. It suits makers who enjoy heirloom crochet toys, artisan stuffed animals, and detailed handmade doll clothes with a refined finish that looks lovely for gifting, display, or seasonal shop listings.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny color: soft warm cream
• Ear color: taupe-gray
• Lavender A: medium dusty lavender
• Lavender B: deeper violet-lavender for edging and shoe contrast
• Sage green: muted pale green
• Owl beak: golden yellow
• Owl face ring: cream or off-white
• Lace square: ecru or soft ivory crochet cotton
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Black safety eyes: one larger pair for bunny, one smaller pair for owl
• Embroidery thread: pale brown or blush-tan for nose and mouth detail
• Small snaps or tiny hidden stitches: optional for jacket front
• Floral wire or pipe cleaner: for the iris stem and leaves
• Thin cardboard circle: optional for stabilizing the handbag base

Suggested Tools

• 2.0 mm hook for the bunny and most accessories
• 1.75 mm hook for fine details, lace square, and flower petals
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Pins for assembly

Finished Size

The bunny stands about 10 to 11 inches tall from the top of the bonnet to the bottom of the feet when made with fine cotton yarn and a tight gauge. The owl is about 3 inches tall. The handbag is large enough to sit beside the doll, and the iris stem is slightly longer than the owl.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

Use a very firm amigurumi fabric throughout. The stitches in the photo are compact, even, and neat, with very little gap between rounds. If your fabric looks loose, change to a smaller hook rather than reducing stuffing. The doll should feel structured, smooth, and balanced when standing with support.

The clothing in the image is more refined than chunky. The jacket sleeves, bonnet, skirt edging, and handbag all look made with fine yarn and consistent stitch tension. Keep color changes crisp. For the lace-style areas, block lightly after finishing so the motifs open without looking floppy.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• inc = 2 sc in one stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd = round
• rep = repeat

Construction Overview

This set is made in separate pieces. Begin with the bunny: head, body, legs, arms, and ears. Then make the bonnet, dress, overskirt paneling, jacket, shoes, and floral trim. Finish the matching handbag, owl companion, iris stem, and small lace square. Assemble slowly and check symmetry often.

Bunny Head

Work in continuous rounds with cream yarn unless noted.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Rnd 11: (9 sc, inc) x 6. (66)
12. Rnd 12: (10 sc, inc) x 6. (72)
13. Rnds 13-26: sc around. (72)

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The head in the photo is round and wide with a gentle lower taper, not elongated. Keep the face smooth and slightly full in the cheeks. Insert the larger safety eyes between Rnds 18 and 19, with about 14 stitches between them. Adjust one stitch narrower or wider if needed for your yarn.

Begin stuffing firmly. The front face should stay smooth, with more filling in the cheek area than the top crown. Avoid overstuffing the lower half because the bonnet must sit closely around the head without pushing outward too much.

1. Rnd 27: (10 sc, dec) x 6. (66)
2. Rnd 28: (9 sc, dec) x 6. (60)
3. Rnd 29: (8 sc, dec) x 6. (54)
4. Rnd 30: (7 sc, dec) x 6. (48)
5. Rnd 31: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
6. Rnd 32: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 33: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)

Pause and embroider the nose centered between the eyes, about 3 rounds below them. The nose in the image is tiny, soft, and shallowly triangular, worked in pale tan. Add a very short downward stitch and a tiny curved mouth, kept delicate and almost minimal.

1. Rnd 34: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
2. Rnd 35: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
3. Rnd 36: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)
4. Rnd 37: dec around. (6)

Fasten off and close.

Long Bunny Ears Make 2

These ears are long, soft, and flat, hanging below the jaw and reaching almost to the lower jacket. Use taupe-gray yarn. The ears in the image are not heavily stuffed. They drape gently and are wider at the base, then slightly narrow and round at the tips.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnds 7-10: sc around. (36)
8. Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
9. Rnds 12-26: sc around. (30)
10. Rnd 27: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
11. Rnds 28-36: sc around. (24)
12. Rnd 37: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
13. Rnds 38-48: sc around. (18)
14. Flatten and sc through both layers for 8 stitches at the base.

Do not stuff, or add only the lightest touch of filling near the base. Sew the ears to the sides of the head under the bonnet line so they emerge from beneath the cap and fall close to the cheeks.

Legs Make 2

The doll has slim legs with small rounded feet. The visible cream section begins above the shoes, so work the legs in cream. Shoes are separate and added later. Stuff the feet and lower legs firmly enough to keep shape, but do not make them too thick.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnds 5-7: sc around. (24)
6. Rnd 8: 7 sc, 5 dec, 7 sc. (19)
7. Rnd 9: 5 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc. (15)
8. Rnd 10: sc around. (15)
9. Rnd 11: BLO sc around. (15)
10. Rnds 12-24: sc around. (15)

Fasten off first leg. Make the second leg but do not fasten off.

Body

The body under the clothing is compact and slightly barrel-shaped, with a narrow shoulder line. Join the legs with the feet facing forward.

1. Rnd 25: From second leg, ch 4 and join to first leg, sc 15 around first leg, sc 4 across chain, sc 15 around second leg, sc 4 across opposite side of chain. (38)
2. Rnd 26: (18 sc, inc) x 2. (40)
3. Rnd 27: (4 sc, inc) x 8. (48)
4. Rnds 28-34: sc around. (48)
5. Rnd 35: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
6. Rnd 36: sc around. (42)
7. Rnd 37: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
8. Rnd 38: sc around. (36)
9. Rnd 39: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
10. Rnds 40-42: sc around. (30)
11. Rnd 43: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
12. Rnd 44: sc around. (24)

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Stuff firmly, especially the lower body. The doll in the image looks stable through the hips and waist, with a neat narrow upper torso. Keep the front flat enough so the dress and jacket can sit close without bulging.

Arms Make 2

The arms are slim, lightly curved, and end in small cream hands. The sleeves cover most of them, so keep shaping simple and tidy.

1. Rnd 1: With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x 3. (9)
5. Rnds 5-8: sc around. (9)
6. Change to cream or continue same if sleeves will cover fully. Rnds 9-20: sc around. (9)
7. Flatten top and sc through both layers for 4 stitches.

Stuff the hand and lower arm lightly. Leave the upper arm mostly unstuffed for easier sewing and better drape beneath the jacket sleeves.

Join Head and Body

Sew the head to the body securely. The neck should be short and stable, with the face looking straight ahead. The finished doll in the image has a gentle upright posture. It should not tilt backward or slump under the bonnet and jacket.

Sew the arms slightly below the neck on the sides of the upper torso. Angle them downward so the hands rest near the skirt line. The sleeves in the photo are straight rather than puffed, so avoid attaching the arms too high or too wide.

Bonnet Base

The bonnet fits like a close cap around the head, framing the face in sage and lavender bands. It does not cover the face deeply. Use lavender A for the crown and sage for the face band. Work from the crown outward.

1. Rnd 1: With lavender A, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Rnd 11: (9 sc, inc) x 6. (66)
12. Rnd 12: (10 sc, inc) x 6. (72)

Check fit over the head. The bonnet should cover the crown and end just above the eyes when centered. If needed, add one more increase round for a larger head. Continue with short rows to shape the back depth.

1. Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc 56, leaving 8 stitches unworked at each side.
2. Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc 56.
3. Row 15: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 52, dec. (54)
4. Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc 54.
5. Row 17: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 50, dec. (52)

Do not fasten off. Switch to sage and work one round of sc evenly around the face opening and lower edge. Then add one final round in lavender B or lavender A along the outer front frame only for the soft striped look seen in the image.

Bonnet Ties

Attach sage yarn near one lower front side of the bonnet. Ch 28 to 32, sl st back or work 1 row of sl st for a firmer cord. Repeat on the opposite side. Tie into a loose bow under the chin. The bow in the image is airy and narrow, not bulky.

Bonnet Iris Flower

The flower on the bonnet is a layered iris-style blossom in lavender tones with a pale center accent. Make one larger lower petal cluster and one slightly smaller upper petal cluster.

Lower Petals Make 3

1. With lavender A, ch 5.
2. In second ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc, 5 dc in last ch.
3. Working back along other side: dc, hdc, sc.
4. Fasten off, leaving tail.

Upper Petals Make 3

1. With lavender B, ch 4.
2. In second ch from hook: sc, hdc, 4 dc in last ch.
3. Working back along other side: hdc, sc.
4. Fasten off.

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Layer the smaller petals over the larger ones. Add a few short straight stitches in pale yellow or cream at the center. Sew the flower to the right side of the bonnet, slightly above the temple area, with a tiny sage base if desired.

Simple Underdress Bodice

The visible upper dress is fitted and mostly hidden by the jacket, but a lavender bodice shows clearly at the center front. Make a simple top from waist upward and then build the skirt from the waist down.

1. With lavender A, ch 26.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (25)
3. Rows 2-8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (25)

Wrap around the body and seam at back. Adjust length if needed for a snug fit. Add shoulder straps if you prefer, or sew directly under the jacket line. The upper edge should sit around the underarm level.

Main Skirt

The skirt is one of the most distinctive features. It is soft sage with lace-like vertical motifs, a central iris panel, and lavender trim near the hem. To match the image, create a lightly flared skirt with three decorative front areas: left lace panel, center iris panel, and right lace panel.

Join sage yarn to the lower edge of the bodice and work in joined rounds.

1. Rnd 1: Work 50 sc evenly around the lower edge.
2. Rnd 2: (4 sc, inc) x 10. (60)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (60)
4. Rnd 4: (5 sc, inc) x 10. (70)
5. Rnd 5: sc around. (70)
6. Rnd 6: (6 sc, inc) x 10. (80)
7. Rnds 7-10: sc around. (80)

Now begin decorative front planning. Mark the front center 20 stitches, with 10 stitches to each side reserved for motifs. The remaining stitches at sides and back stay plain or lightly textured. The photo suggests subtle lace patterning rather than a very open mesh, so keep it dense enough for a toy garment.

Left and Right Lace Panels

On two front side sections of about 12 stitches each, work a repeating eyelet-vine effect over 8 rows.

1. Row A: sc across panel
2. Row B: sc 2, ch 1, skip 1, sc 6, ch 1, skip 1, sc 2
3. Row C: sc across, placing sc into ch spaces
4. Row D: sc 3, ch 1, skip 1, sc 4, ch 1, skip 1, sc 3
5. Repeat these rows to create a staggered leaf-vine look

Keep the rest of the skirt in sc or hdc rows. You may work the decorative areas flat and sew them on as appliqué panels if that gives you cleaner control. In the image, the motifs are symmetrical and crisp, which often looks best when made separately and attached carefully.

Center Iris Panel

Create a rectangular central panel about 10 stitches wide and 10 to 12 rows tall in pale lavender mesh or textured stitches. Use a simple lattice background made by alternating sc and ch-1 spaces, then embroider or appliqué the iris using crochet pieces.

Iris Stem and Leaves for Skirt Panel

• Make one thin green stem: ch 10, sl st back.
• Make two narrow leaves: ch 8, sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st back.
• Sew leaves crossing slightly at the base.

Iris Petals for Skirt Panel

• Make 3 lower lavender petals using the larger petal method.
• Make 2 or 3 small upper petals using the smaller petal method.
• Add tiny yellow center stitches.

Attach the completed iris panel at the front center of the skirt. Continue skirt rounds or rows until the hem reaches just above the ankles, matching the image. The finished skirt should flare gently and sit evenly under the jacket.

Hem Edging

Work one round in lavender B near the lower hem, then one decorative scallop round in sage or pale lavender.

1. Round 1: sc around in lavender B.
2. Round 2: In sage, (sl st, skip 1, 3 hdc in next st, skip 1) repeat around.

This edging should stay small and refined. In the photo, the hem trim is visible but not dramatic.

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Jacket

The jacket is dusty lavender with sage trim, a short rounded body, full-length sleeves, and floral accents on the front. It opens at the center front and curves gently at the lower edges. Work in rows from the hem upward.

1. With lavender A, ch 34.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (33)
3. Rows 2-6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (33)

Now divide for fronts and back.

• Right front: 8 sts
• Armhole gap shaping: 4 sts decrease area
• Back: 9 sts
• Armhole gap shaping: 4 sts decrease area
• Left front: 8 sts

Work each section upward with simple armhole shaping over 4 more rows. Join shoulders neatly. For sleeves, attach yarn at each armhole and work downward in rounds or short rows.

Sleeves Make 2

1. Round 1: 18 sc evenly around armhole.
2. Rounds 2-5: sc around. (18)
3. Round 6: (4 sc, dec) x 3. (15)
4. Rounds 7-12: sc around. (15)
5. Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x 3. (12)
6. Rounds 14-18: sc around. (12)

Add a final sage trim round at cuffs. The sleeve width in the image is moderate, neither tight nor bell-shaped.

Jacket Edging

Join sage yarn and work a border along the front opening, neckline, and lower edge. At the curved lower fronts, add small increases so the edge lies flat. Finish with a narrow lavender accent line if desired. The visual effect should be layered but clean.

Jacket Front Floral Decoration

Make two tiny iris sprays or leafy motifs for the lower front sections. Each side in the image has a decorative floral arrangement in sage and lavender. These should be delicate and flat, not padded.

• For each side, make 2 narrow leaves and 1 or 2 mini petals.
• Sew them vertically near the lower front, leaving the center opening clear.

Neck Tie Cord

With sage yarn, make a long cord by chaining 40 to 45 and slip stitching back. Thread it through the neckline area or stitch it at the front neck edges. Tie into a small bow. The bow loops should be long and narrow, matching the image.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are Mary Jane style in sage, lavender, and deep lavender, each with a small flower on the strap side. They sit over the cream feet rather than replacing them. Work tightly so they hug the feet well.

1. With deep lavender, ch 7.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4 on opposite side, inc in last. (14)
3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 2. (20)
4. Rnd 3: BLO sc around. (20)
5. Rnd 4: sc 5, dec x 5, sc 5. (15)
6. Rnd 5: sc around. (15)

Change to sage for strap area and upper edge. Create a small strap from one side with ch 5, then sew to opposite side. Add one round or stitched line in lavender around the opening if needed.

Shoe Flowers Make 2

• MR, (ch 2, 2 dc, sl st) x 4 into ring.
• Use lavender petals with tiny yellow center stitch if desired.

Sew one flower onto each shoe strap side. Position slightly toward the outer side, as seen in the photo.

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Handbag

The bag is round, structured, and simple, in pale sage with a darker lavender edging at the top and handle connection. It has a softly flattened circular body and one firm handle arching from side to side.

Bag Sides Make 2

1. With sage, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Rnds 8-12: sc around. (42)

Fasten off one circle. On the second, do not fasten off.

Bag Gusset

Place circles together and work through both layers around the outer edge, but leave the upper opening unworked. Add 3 to 4 rounds of sc around the joined edge to create depth. Insert a thin cardboard base if you want a firmer display shape.

Top Edge and Handle

Work one round in lavender B around the opening. For the handle, attach at one upper side, ch 28 to 32 depending on desired curve, then sl st or sc back for strength. Sew the opposite end securely. The handle in the image is rounded and medium-thick.

Owl Companion

The little owl is plump and rounded, wearing a sage and lavender hooded outfit with a tiny matching jacket and scarf-like tie. Keep it compact and cute, with oversized eyes and a small yellow beak.

Owl Body

1. With lavender A, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnds 7-13: sc around. (36)
8. Rnd 14: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
9. Rnd 15: sc around. (30)
10. Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)

Insert small safety eyes with cream eye rings between Rnds 9 and 10. Make the eye rings as tiny flat circles: 6 sc in MR, fasten off, then sew around the eyes. Embroider or crochet a tiny yellow beak between them.

1. Rnd 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
2. Rnd 18: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 19: dec around. (6)

Stuff firmly before closing. Add little side wings as flat ovals in pale pink-beige or cream if you want the exact side contrast seen in the image.

Owl Wings Make 2

• Ch 5, work sc, hdc, dc, 3 dc in last ch, then dc, hdc, sc back along opposite side.
• Sew flat to the owl sides.

Owl Hood

Make a close-fitting cap in sage with small pointed ear corners, then add a lavender trim. You may shape the points using two tiny ch-2 picot corners on the top edge, or by sewing the top corners into soft peaks.

Owl Jacket

Make a very small open-front jacket in lavender A with sage trim, using a short rectangle folded around the body and seamed at the shoulders. Add one mini flower or leaf accent on the front to echo the bunny outfit.

Owl Neck Tie

Ch 18 with sage and slip stitch back. Tie around the neck as a tiny bow.

Iris Stem Accessory

The stem accessory includes a long green stalk, two narrow leaves, and a lavender iris bloom. Use floral wire or pipe cleaner inside the stem and leaves so the piece keeps its pose in display photos.

Stem

• Wrap green yarn around floral wire or crochet a tube of 4 sc around the wire for 16 to 18 rounds.

Leaves Make 2

• Ch 18.
• Sl st, sc, hdc gradually up one side to the center, then dc near the middle, tapering back down on the other side.
• Fasten off with long tails and stitch leaves to the lower stem.

Flower Head

• Make 3 larger lower petals in lavender A.
• Make 3 smaller upper petals in lavender B.
• Add pale yellow center stitches.
• Join petals around the top of the stem.

Angle the bloom slightly sideways to mirror the relaxed natural pose shown beside the owl.

Small Lace Square

The image includes a small cream lace square placed near the handbag. It looks like a decorative handkerchief or mini doily. Keep it tiny and airy.

1. With fine cotton, ch 16.
2. Row 1: dc in fourth ch from hook and across.
3. Row 2: ch 3, turn, dc, ch 1, skip 1 across for a mesh row.
4. Rows 3-6: alternate solid dc rows and mesh rows.
5. Border: work *sc, ch 3, sc* loops around corners and edges.

Lightly block to square it off. It should look delicate and slightly vintage.

Color Placement Notes

• Face, legs, and hands: warm cream
• Ears: taupe-gray
• Bonnet crown and jacket: dusty lavender
• Bonnet face band, skirt, bag, and trims: sage green
• Accent outlines and shoe base: deeper lavender
• Flower centers and owl beak: pale yellow

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the ears first, then fit and stitch the bonnet over them so the ear bases are hidden neatly. Add the bonnet flower on the bunny’s right side. Dress the bunny in the underdress and skirt, then sew or tack the jacket in place at the shoulders and side seams if desired.

Attach the neck cord and tie a soft bow. Slip the shoes onto the feet and tack them lightly at the heel and front. For the face, keep the nose tiny and centered, with only a faint mouth line. The expression should stay calm, gentle, and childlike.

Set the owl beside the bunny, place the bag on the other side, and arrange the iris stem slightly angled. The lace square can be tucked near the bag for the same styled display effect.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sunlight.
• Handle the iris stem gently if wire is used.
• Do not lift the bunny by the bonnet ties or jacket front.
• Spot clean first whenever possible.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes aligned evenly on both bunny and owl
• Bonnet centered and tied neatly
• Jacket fronts balanced and symmetrical
• Skirt motifs placed evenly across the front
• Shoes matched and flowers facing outward
• Bag handle secure
• Iris bloom attached firmly to the stem

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft dry brush to remove dust from textured areas like the skirt motifs, flower petals, and owl jacket. For deeper cleaning, blot gently with a damp cloth and mild soap, then reshape all pieces while drying flat. Keep stuffed parts away from soaking whenever possible.

Store the set in a breathable cotton bag or display case. Add acid-free tissue around the bonnet flower, owl hood points, and iris petals to help preserve shape. Avoid plastic bags in warm rooms, since trapped moisture can dull fibers and flatten the sculpted details over time.