This sweet bunny doll is designed with a soft vintage look, a ruffled bonnet, a layered pastel dress, tiny sandals, a takeaway coffee cup, a folded picnic cloth, and a small chameleon friend. It has the charm of a handmade bunny doll, collectible amigurumi, nursery decor plush, and spring gift item all in one.
The finished set feels like a boutique crochet doll and accessory bundle, with details that suit shoppers looking for a handmade stuffed bunny, cottagecore plush toy, spring amigurumi decor, and pastel animal doll. Every piece is shaped to match the pictured proportions so the full set looks balanced and polished.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Main bunny color: light cream or warm ivory cotton yarn, sport or light DK weight
- Dress color: pale powder blue cotton yarn in the same weight
- Bonnet trim and apron: cream yarn
- Pastel chameleon colors: mint, pale pink, soft lavender, buttery cream, and light aqua
- Cup sleeve and straw: milk-tea brown yarn
- Optional blush tone: pale pink embroidery thread or yarn scrap
- Hook: choose a size smaller than the yarn label recommends so the stitches stay dense; 2.25 mm to 2.75 mm works well
- Safety eyes: glossy black, about 8 mm to 10 mm for the bunny, smaller for the chameleon
- Stuffing: firm polyester fiberfill
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Thin cardboard or plastic insert: optional for the cup base
- Craft wire: optional and only if you want the coffee cord to keep a curved shape
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
General Notes
This design is worked mostly in continuous rounds unless a section says otherwise. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
Keep your stitches tight. The bunny in the image has a smooth, compact surface with very little gap between stitches. Stuff the head firmly, the limbs moderately, and the body enough to hold shape without stretching the fabric.
The proportions matter. The head is large and nearly round, the body is short and gently tapered, the ears are long and soft, the arms are slim cylinders, and the legs are short with a simple upright stance. The outfit adds width at the shoulders and hem.
The dress and accessories create the final character. Do not skip the bonnet ruffle, apron bobbles, layered skirt edges, sandal flower centers, takeaway cup, cloth square, or pastel chameleon. Those small items are essential to the finished look.
Finished Size
Using sport or light DK yarn and a tight gauge, the bunny stands about 9 to 11 inches tall from feet to top of bonnet ruffle. The chameleon is small enough to sit beside the bunny’s feet. The cup reaches roughly knee height on the doll.
Bunny Head
Work in cream.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
- Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
- Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
- Round 9: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
- Rounds 10 to 19: sc around. (54)
Place the safety eyes between Rounds 12 and 13 with about 10 visible stitches between them. In the photo the eyes sit fairly wide apart and slightly low on the face, which helps create the gentle expression.
Embroider the nose with soft beige or pale pink thread centered two rounds below the eyes. Make a small horizontal triangle or tiny wedge shape. Add a short vertical line beneath it. Keep this embroidery delicate and narrow.
- Round 20: 7 sc, dec around. (48)
- Round 21: 6 sc, dec around. (42)
- Round 22: 5 sc, dec around. (36)
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Begin stuffing firmly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers as you add fiberfill so the face stays round and smooth instead of tall or oval.
- Round 23: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
- Round 24: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
- Round 25: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
Do not finish off yet if you prefer to join the head to the neck opening later with sewing. Otherwise leave a long tail for stitching.
Ears Make 2
Work in cream. These ears are long, soft, and slightly flattened. They are not heavily stuffed. Their length should fall from the bonnet sides to about the upper arm area.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Rounds 4 to 8: sc around. (18)
- Round 9: 7 sc, dec, 9 sc. (17)
- Round 10: sc around. (17)
- Round 11: 6 sc, dec, 9 sc. (16)
- Round 12: sc around. (16)
- Round 13: 6 sc, dec, 8 sc. (15)
- Rounds 14 to 24: sc around. (15)
Flatten the ear and sc through both sides for 6 to 7 stitches to close the opening, or leave open for sewing if you prefer more control. Add only a whisper of stuffing at the top third if needed. The lower ear should remain floppy.
Arms Make 2
Work in cream. The arms are slim, straight, and softly stuffed. They angle slightly downward when attached.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: sc around. (12)
- Round 4: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc. (10)
- Rounds 5 to 16: sc around. (10)
Stuff lightly, especially near the hand. Flatten the top opening and close with 4 to 5 sc through both layers, or leave open with a long tail for sewing. Make sure both arms are exactly the same length.
Legs Make 2
Work in cream. These legs are short and neat with only a little shaping. The sandals will provide most of the foot definition, so do not overbuild the feet.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Rounds 4 to 5: sc around. (18)
- Round 6: 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc. (16)
- Round 7: sc around. (16)
- Round 8: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec. (14)
- Round 9: sc around. (14)
- Round 10: 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec. (12)
- Rounds 11 to 16: sc around. (12)
Stuff the lower foot firmly enough so the doll can stand with support. The upper leg should be moderately stuffed. Finish the first leg. Do not cut the yarn on the second leg if you will join them directly.
Body
The body is compact with a narrow waist and slightly fuller lower section hidden under the skirt. Join the legs so the bunny stands balanced beneath the dress.
- Using the second leg, ch 3 and join to the first leg. Sc around the first leg, sc across the chain, sc around the second leg, sc across the other side of the chain. Adjust stitch count so you have 30 sts total.
- Round 2: sc around. (30)
- Round 3: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Rounds 4 to 6: sc around. (36)
- Round 7: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
- Rounds 8 to 10: sc around. (30)
- Round 11: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
- Rounds 12 to 14: sc around. (24)
Stuff the body gradually. It should be firm at the base so the doll does not collapse, but a little softer near the chest so the apron and dress lie smoothly.
- Round 15: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
- Round 16: sc around. (18)
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Leave a long tail for attaching the head. If you want a more stable neck, insert a small rolled fabric or plastic support inside the neck before sewing the head on.
Head and Body Joining
Sew the head centered onto the body. Take time to align the face so it looks straight when the legs are placed flat. The neck should be short. The chin sits close to the top of the apron and does not float high above the shoulders.
Before securing the final stitches, add extra stuffing into the neck area if needed. This keeps the large head upright and helps the bonnet sit evenly.
Bonnet Base
Work in cream. The bonnet frames the face and covers the crown like a soft cap. It is separate from the head and finished with a wide standing ruffle.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
- Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
- Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
- Round 9: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
- Rounds 10 to 12: sc around. (54)
Test the piece over the head. It should cup the back and top of the head while leaving the lower face fully visible. If needed, add or subtract one plain round depending on your yarn thickness.
Bonnet Face Opening
Flatten the bonnet lightly and mark a front opening that will frame the face. Leave the lower sides long enough to cover the ear bases.
- Row 1: Attach yarn at one side front edge and work 36 sc across the front opening.
- Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across.
- Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec.
- Rows 4 to 6: Repeat Row 2 or Row 3 as needed so the opening curves gently around the face.
Fasten off. Sew the bonnet lightly to the head after the ears are positioned under its side edges.
Bonnet Ruffle
The bonnet ruffle is one of the most important visual features. It should be creamy, rounded, and lively, not flat. Work around the face opening edge.
- Attach yarn to the front edge.
- Round 1: Evenly work sc around the opening.
- Round 2: In each stitch work 2 dc. This creates fullness.
- Round 3: Work 1 sc, 2 dc, 1 sc into the first stitch group, then sl st into the next stitch group. Repeat around to form deep curved frills.
If you want an even more dramatic ruffle like the photo, add an extra row by working 2 dc in each dc of Round 2 before the final shell shaping. Steam lightly with care if needed, but avoid flattening the waves.
Bonnet Ties
Make two narrow cream ties.
- Ch 32 to 40 for each tie, depending on the size of your doll.
- Starting in second chain from hook, sl st across for a neat cord, or work 1 row of sc for a slightly thicker tie.
Sew one tie to each lower bonnet side. Tie them in a soft bow under the chin. In the image the ties hang naturally and are not bulky.
Dress Upper Bodice
Work in pale blue. The bodice sits like a little pinafore dress and begins just below the neck. It is fitted and plain at the center, with slight shoulder flares.
You may either crochet the bodice directly onto the bunny or make it separately and sew it in place. A direct fit often gives the neatest look.
- Foundation: With the bunny facing you, attach blue yarn around the upper body and work an even round of 24 sc.
- Round 2: sc around. (24)
- Round 3: sc around. (24)
For the little shoulder frills visible in the photo, create mini cap sleeves along the upper sides.
- Round 4: Work 5 sc, then into the next 4 stitches work 2 hdc in each stitch for the first sleeve ripple, sc 6, then repeat over the next 4 stitches for the second sleeve ripple, sc to end.
Fasten off or continue into the apron join depending on your preferred construction.
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Apron Panel With Bobbles
The apron panel is cream and centered on the front of the bodice. It should cover the middle front only and stop above the layered skirt. The bobble texture is arranged in tidy rows and is crucial to matching the photo.
- Row 1: Ch 13. Starting in second chain from hook, sc 12.
- Rows 2 to 3: Ch 1, turn, sc 12.
- Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc.
- Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across.
- Row 6: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, 1 sc, bobble, 2 sc.
- Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across.
- Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
- Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across.
- Row 10: Work even sc, decreasing one stitch at each side if you want a softly narrowed top edge.
Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew the apron panel onto the center front of the blue bodice. Position it so the top edge sits just below the neckline and the lower edge overlaps the skirt join.
Apron Top Band and Neck Ties
Use cream. Work a simple edging around the top and sides of the apron panel. Then add long chains for ties that meet behind the neck or under the bonnet ties.
- Attach yarn at top right corner and sc evenly across the top, down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side.
- At each top corner, ch 28 to 34 for a tie, then sl st back along the chain if you want extra strength.
The photo shows the apron tied in a delicate front or neck area bow effect. Keep the ties thin and soft so they do not overpower the face.
Layered Skirt Base
The skirt is built from several tiered rounds in pale blue. Each lower layer becomes wider and ends with a lacy scalloped edge. The skirt should flare gently without becoming stiff or bell shaped.
- Attach blue yarn around the waist below the bodice. Work 30 sc evenly around.
- Round 2: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
- Round 3: sc around. (36)
- Round 4: In BLO, sc around. This creates a ridge for the first tier.
- Round 5: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
- Round 6: sc around. (42)
- Round 7: In BLO, sc around.
- Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
- Round 9: sc around. (48)
- Round 10: In BLO, sc around.
- Round 11: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
- Round 12: sc around. (54)
This base gives you three ridges in the front loops. Those front loops are where the decorative flounced tiers will be added.
Skirt Tier One
Join blue yarn into the highest unused front loop ridge.
- Round 1: In each front loop, work 2 dc. Join with sl st.
- Round 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc, skip 1 stitch, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, 1 sc in next stitch. Repeat around to form scallops.
This top flounce should sit just under the apron and show a neat wavy edge.
Skirt Tier Two
Join blue yarn into the middle front loop ridge.
- Round 1: Work 2 dc in each loop around.
- Round 2: Create scallops using 1 sc, skip 1, 5 dc in next, skip 1, 1 sc in next around.
The second tier should be slightly fuller and fall below the first tier. Make sure it remains visible and not hidden completely underneath.
Skirt Tier Three
Join blue yarn into the lowest front loop ridge.
- Round 1: Alternate 1 dc and 2 dc in the next stitch around to add a bit more spread.
- Round 2: Work the same scallop edging around.
This lowest tier is the most visible in the image. Let it drape widest. If needed, add one extra foundation round before the scallops so the hem reaches closer to the ankles.
Waist Edging
Work a simple cream or blue edging at the waistline if your join looks unfinished. A round of slip stitches or single crochet can make the transition cleaner.
Sandals Make 2
The sandals are small but very important. They are cream with slender straps crossing the foot and a tiny flower accent at the ankle outer side.
Sole
Work in cream.
- Ch 7.
- Round 1: Starting in second chain from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last chain, work on opposite side of chain, sc 4, 2 sc in last stitch. (14)
- Round 2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20)
- Round 3: sc around in BLO. (20)
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Upper Straps
- Attach yarn at one side of the sole.
- Ch 5 to 6, anchor across the front of the foot with sl st.
- Make a second diagonal strap crossing the first if desired.
- For the ankle strap, attach at the side, ch enough to wrap around the ankle, and secure.
Try the sandal directly on the leg and adjust length. The front should stay open enough to show the rounded cream foot.
Flower Accent
- With cream or pale blue, make 5 tiny petals in a MR: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st, repeat 5 times.
- Add a small contrasting knot or French-knot style center with beige or brown thread.
Sew one flower to the outer ankle strap of each sandal.
Takeaway Coffee Cup
This accessory is worked in cream and brown. It is slightly tapered and sized to reach near the bunny’s knee. The lid is cream, the center sleeve is brown, and the straw is narrow brown.
Cup Body
- With cream, Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Round 5: In BLO, sc around. (24)
- Rounds 6 to 8: sc around. (24)
- Change to brown for sleeve area. Rounds 9 to 12: sc around. (24)
- Change to cream. Rounds 13 to 16: sc around. (24)
Stuff lightly or insert a small felt cylinder so the cup holds its shape. For a flatter base, place a cardboard circle inside the bottom before closing or stuffing.
Lid
- With cream, Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Round 5: BLO sc around. (24)
- Round 6: sc around.
Sew the lid onto the cup. Add a tiny center bump if desired by making a small 6-stitch nub and stitching it on top.
Straw
- With brown, ch 10 to 14.
- Starting in second chain from hook, sl st back for a narrow straw.
Insert and sew at an angle so it tilts slightly, like the image. Keep it slim.
Cup Handle Cord
The image shows a long brown carrying cord attached to the cup and held by the bunny. Make a chain long enough to drape naturally from the hand to the cup.
- With brown, ch 45 to 60 depending on scale.
- Sl st back across for strength.
Sew one end to the cup side near the upper body of the cup. The other end may be lightly tacked to the bunny hand for display.
Picnic Cloth
This small folded pastel square sits on the table. It looks soft and striped in pale mint, cream, blue, and pink. You can make it simple but neat.
- Using pastel colors, ch 12.
- Rows 1 to 10: sc across, changing color every 2 rows or every row in soft irregular stripes.
- Fasten off and weave in ends.
Fold the cloth once or twice before styling. Keep it thin so it looks like a hand towel or tiny blanket.
Chameleon Friend
The chameleon is small, rounded, pastel, and cuddly rather than realistic. It has a large spiral tail, rounded head, short legs, and a soft ridged back. It also holds a miniature cup, which helps tie the whole set together.
Head
Work in pastel stripes or change colors softly every few rounds.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
- Rounds 5 to 7: sc around. (24)
- Round 8: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
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Insert one small eye on the visible side and another on the far side if desired, though in the photo the near eye dominates. Stuff lightly and continue into the body, or sew the head separately.
Body
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
- Rounds 4 to 8: sc around. (18)
- Round 9: 1 sc, dec around. (12)
Stuff the body gently. It should sit low and rounded, not tall.
Legs Make 4
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
- Rounds 2 to 3: sc around.
Flatten slightly and sew under the body so the chameleon sits with a stable stance. The front legs angle forward a little.
Tail
The tail is curled into a spiral. Work a long tube or a naturally curling strip.
- Ch 18 to 24.
- Starting in second chain from hook, work 3 sc in each chain across. This will force a spiral curl.
Attach the tail to the back end of the body. Roll and shape until it resembles the rounded swirl seen in the image.
Back Frill or Ridge
The chameleon has a soft decorative ridge along the back in pastel shell-like bumps.
- Attach yarn from back of neck to tail base.
- Work repeating small shell stitches: sl st, 3 hdc in next stitch, sl st in next stitch.
Alternate pastel colors if you want the same candy-soft effect.
Mini Cup for Chameleon
Make a tiny version of the bunny’s takeaway cup.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Rounds 3 to 5: sc around, with one middle round in brown for the sleeve.
Add a tiny spiral of brown yarn on top to suggest a drink swirl. Sew or tack the cup close to the front legs so it looks cuddled in the chameleon’s arms.
Assembly Order
- Sew the head to the body.
- Attach the ears to the head sides, slightly behind the eye line.
- Fit and sew the bonnet over the head, catching the ear tops under the bonnet sides.
- Sew the arms to the upper body, angled slightly downward.
- Dress the bunny with the blue bodice and layered skirt if not crocheted directly on.
- Sew the cream apron panel centered on the front.
- Tie or sew the apron ties neatly.
- Place the sandals on the feet and secure with a few hidden stitches.
- Make and attach the bonnet ties.
- Create the cup, cloth, and chameleon, then style them around the bunny.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the face from the front before finishing all knots. The eyes should feel calm and symmetrical, with the nose centered and tiny. Add a faint blush only if you want a softer expression.
If the head tilts, open a few neck stitches and add more stuffing. If the bonnet covers too much face, move it back slightly and resew. Tie the bonnet strings in a small bow under the chin.
Place the coffee cord into one hand with a tiny hidden stitch. Style the picnic cloth at the bunny’s feet. Set the chameleon near the right foot so the whole scene looks balanced.
Care Notes
- Display use: best for decor, shelf styling, and gentle play
- Handling: lift the bunny from the body, not the bonnet ruffle or apron ties
- Sunlight: avoid long direct sun exposure so the pastel shades stay soft
- Moisture: keep away from damp storage spaces
- Small parts: use embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes for very young children
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head is centered and firm
- Ears match in length and angle
- Bonnet ruffle frames the face evenly
- Apron panel is centered on the bodice
- Three blue skirt tiers are visible
- Sandals sit evenly on both feet
- Cup has cream top and bottom with brown sleeve
- Picnic cloth is folded neatly
- Chameleon tail curls into a tidy spiral
- All tails are woven in securely
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean first whenever possible. Use a soft cloth, cool water, and a tiny amount of mild soap. Dab gently rather than rubbing, especially on the face embroidery and pastel accessory pieces.
If deeper cleaning is needed, hand wash very carefully in cool water. Do not twist or wring the doll. Press out water with a towel, reshape the head, bonnet ruffle, skirt tiers, and chameleon tail, then dry flat away from heat.
Store the set in a clean, dry place. Acid-free tissue can be tucked around the bonnet and skirt to help preserve their shape. Avoid crushing the ruffles under heavy items. For long-term display, dust lightly with a soft brush.
