Verbena Carousel-Bow Bear – Crochet

This elegant amigurumi bear set blends a soft vintage palette with collectible doll styling, making it ideal for anyone searching for a handmade teddy bear doll, crochet stuffed animal, heirloom nursery gift, or boutique-style plush decor. The floral clothing and matching accessories give the whole set a polished, gift-ready finish.

The design also suits makers looking for a crochet bear outfit set, amigurumi animal doll with accessories, handmade girl bear plush, or artisan toy centerpiece. Every visible detail is included so the finished piece feels complete, coordinated, and charming whether displayed on a shelf or offered as a special keepsake.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main yarn: light worsted or DK cotton yarn for the bear and accessories.
• Color A: pale blush cream for head, muzzle, lower body, hands, and part of the skirt.
• Color B: dusty rose for cardigan, shoes, bow, purse, and accent trim.
• Color C: soft lavender for flowers.
• Color D: warm cream for extra flowers and decorative edging.
• Color E: sage or muted green for leaves and flower wreath stems.
• Color F: medium brown for nose embroidery and the tiny deer accents.
• Color G: caramel/tan for the tiny deer body.
• Color H: white for the unicorn applique.
• Optional accent: dusty pink embroidery floss for subtle details.
• Hook: 2.25 mm to 3 mm, chosen to create firm stitches with no stuffing gaps.
• Stuffing: fine polyester fiberfill.
• Eyes: black safety eyes for the main bear and tiny deer, or embroidered eyes for children under three.
• Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery.
• Stitch markers, pins, scissors.
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for optional purse and pouch support.
• Small snap, hidden stitch closure, or button bead substitute for accessory finishing if desired.

Finished Size

The main bear is designed as a seated-standing display doll with a large rounded head, short torso, and sturdy lower body. Using DK cotton and a 2.5 mm hook, the finished bear stands about 11 to 13 inches tall. The small deer stands about 4 to 5 inches tall.

The scale matters in this set. The accessories should look slightly oversized and decorative rather than realistic. That is what gives the image its sweet display quality. Keep your stitches tight and consistent so the bear holds its rounded form and the floral trim remains crisp.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• st = stitch
• rep = repeat

Design Notes

This set has a rounded amigurumi structure with decorative clothing layered on top. The bear body is simple, but the styling depends on the dress, cardigan, bow-beret headpiece, shoes, and floral trims. Do not skip shaping, stuffing balance, or careful placement, because those details create the gentle expression seen in the image.

The main skirt appears broad and slightly bell-shaped. The cardigan is short and curved at the front edges, ending above the skirt’s widest floral band. The headpiece combines a tilted beret with a wide bow. The tiny deer mirrors the bear’s outfit so the entire set reads as one coordinated scene.

Main Bear

Head

1. With Color A, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
11. Rounds 11 to 20: sc around. (60)

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Place the eyes between rounds 12 and 13 with about 12 visible stitches between them. Because the muzzle sits forward and wide, the eyes should look slightly low and far apart, creating the gentle expression. Test the placement before securing. The face should appear calm, soft, and slightly wistful.

12. (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
13. Sc around. (54)
14. (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
15. (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
16. (5 sc, dec) around. (36)

Begin stuffing firmly at the crown and back of the head, but keep the lower front softer so the muzzle can sit naturally without distortion. Continue shaping by hand as you fill. The head must remain very round, with almost no flattening at the sides.

17. (4 sc, dec) around. (30)
18. (3 sc, dec) around. (24)

Fasten off only if you prefer sewing the head later. For a continuous build, leave the head open at 24 stitches and connect directly to the neck section of the body. Either method works, but sewing later allows easier alignment of the dress and cardigan.

Muzzle

1. With Color A, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Round 5: sc around. (24)
6. Round 6: 8 sc, 4 inc, 12 sc. (28)

Flatten lightly and stuff only a little. Sew the muzzle centered between the eyes, spanning roughly from round 11 to round 16 of the head. It should protrude softly, not sharply. Embroider a medium brown triangular nose and a straight vertical line down to a short Y-shaped mouth.

Ears

1. With Color A, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rounds 4 to 5: sc around. (18)

Fold each ear slightly into a shallow cup and stitch the lower edge closed across 7 to 8 stitches. Sew the ears high on the sides of the head, a little above eye level. The right ear remains more visible; the left ear sits partly under the beret and bow.

Eyebrow Detail

Using a strand of brown embroidery floss or very thin yarn, stitch short curved brows above each eye. Keep them soft and light. They should angle gently upward toward the outer edge. This tiny detail is important because it gives the bear the tender expression visible in the image.

Body

1. With Color A, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rounds 7 to 9: sc around. (36)
8. (4 sc, dec) around. (30)
9. Sc around. (30)
10. (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
11. Sc around. (24)

This body should be shorter than the head height, because the wide skirt and cardigan create most of the figure’s volume. Stuff firmly, especially the lower body. The chest should stay neat and rounded, not elongated. If needed, add a small weighted pouch at the base for better standing balance.

Legs

1. With Color B, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rounds 5 to 6: sc around. (24)

To shape the foot, flatten the piece so the front sits centered. Work 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc. Continue one round even. Switch to Color A for the leg portion.

7. In Color A, sc around. (20)
8. Round 8: 5 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc. (18)
9. Rounds 9 to 15: sc around. (18)

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Stuff the feet firmly and the upper legs lightly. Make two. Position them so the feet angle outward slightly. Sew to the bottom front of the body, leaving enough space between them to support the skirt. The legs should look short and sturdy, matching the doll-like proportions.

Arms

1. With Color A, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Rounds 3 to 5: sc around. (12)
4. Change to Color B. Round 6: sc around. (12)
5. Rounds 7 to 16: sc around. (12)

Do not overstuff. The lower hand should remain rounded, while the sleeve section should be soft enough to sit close to the dress. Flatten the top opening and sew at the shoulder so the arms angle slightly downward and forward. This angle helps the cardigan sit naturally.

Joining Head and Body

If made separately, pin the head to the body first. The neck should be centered and stable, with the face slightly tilted downward for a gentle pose. Add extra stuffing to the neck area before closing. Sew carefully around twice if needed, because the head is large and visually dominant.

Main Dress

Upper Dress

The dress is a separate garment worn over the body. It begins at the bodice and expands into a broad skirt. Use Color D or the light cream shade seen in the image. The fit should be smooth on the torso, then widen gradually below the waist.

1. Ch 24 and join carefully, or work foundation sc 24 in a ring. (24)
2. Rounds 2 to 4: sc around. (24)
3. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
4. Round 6: sc around. (30)
5. Round 7: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
6. Round 8: sc around. (36)
7. Round 9: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Round 10: sc around. (42)
9. Round 11: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
10. Rounds 12 to 13: hdc around. (48)
11. Round 14: (7 hdc, inc) around. (54)
12. Round 15: hdc around. (54)
13. Round 16: (8 hdc, inc) around. (60)
14. Round 17: hdc around. (60)

The texture in the image looks slightly ridged, so hdc rounds help create that soft horizontal banding. Try the dress on as you work. The bodice should hug the body, while the skirt should flare enough to show the flower band without folding inward.

Lower Skirt Expansion

18. Round 18: (9 hdc, inc) around. (66)
19. Round 19: hdc around. (66)
20. Round 20: (10 hdc, inc) around. (72)
21. Round 21: hdc around. (72)

At this point the dress should sit just above the shoes. If you want more fullness, add one plain round and one increase round. Keep the silhouette broad but not dramatic. The floral band will add visual weight, so avoid excessive flare that makes the flowers droop.

Underskirt Edge

Join Color B or a slightly darker pink in the final round of the skirt hem. Work a delicate scallop around the bottom edge.

• Sc in first stitch, skip 1, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1, sc in next stitch.
• Repeat around evenly.

This hem should peek out under the flower trim, creating the layered look seen in the image. Keep it neat and soft, not stiff. Steam blocking is not necessary, but gentle finger shaping helps the scallops settle evenly.

Waist Trim

At the waistline, work one subtle surface round in Color D or a slightly brighter cream. This creates the clean band separating bodice from skirt. The photo shows a tidy transition here, so a simple decorative round makes the clothing look more finished.

Flower Trim for the Main Dress

The lower skirt carries the most decorative detail. Make enough flowers to span the front and sides of the skirt, leaving the back simpler if preferred. Use small layered blossoms in dusty rose, lavender, and cream. Add tiny green leaves between clusters.

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Small Rose Flower

• Ch 16.
• Starting in second ch from hook: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 6 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sc.
• Fasten off with a long tail.
• Roll from the narrow end to form a spiral rose and stitch the base.

Five-Petal Blossom

• In MR: repeat 5 times: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st into ring.
• Pull tight and fasten off.

Tiny Leaf

• Ch 5.
• Starting in second ch: sl st, sc, hdc, sl st in last ch.
• Work opposite side of chain: hdc, sc, sl st.

Arrange the flowers in a garland-like band across the lower front of the dress. Place dusty rose roses slightly above or between the flatter blossoms. Lavender blossoms should cluster densely at the center front. Cream flowers break up the color and keep the trim airy rather than heavy.

Sew the flowers over a faint openwork line if you want to match the image more closely. To create that line, surface crochet a loose chain-like band or stitch a row of chain arches across the front of the skirt, then attach the flowers over and around it.

Cardigan

The cardigan is short, dusty rose, and slightly open at the front. It curves at the lower edges and ends above the lower skirt flowers. The sleeves are simple and snug. Decorative blossoms are sewn to the front panels. A tiny round button detail sits near the neckline.

Back and Yoke

1. With Color B, ch 31.
2. Row 1: sc across. (30)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 5, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 5. (34)
4. Row 3: sc across.
5. Row 4: sc 6, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 6. (38)
6. Rows 5 to 7: sc across.

Mark the sections for left front, armhole, back, armhole, right front. Fold around the body to check the width. The cardigan should skim the dress rather than pulling tightly across it.

Body Panels

Continue on the body only, skipping armholes and joining under the arm. Work 5 to 7 rows of sc or waistcoat-style single crochet for a dense texture. On the final two rows, shape the front edges by decreasing slightly at the lower corners so the cardigan curves inward.

Sleeves

Join yarn at each armhole. Work 12 to 14 rounds of sc. The sleeve should narrow only a little toward the cuff. Finish with one round in Color D for the cream cuff edge. Add a second subtle line if you want the same layered cuff seen in the photo.

Front Edging

With Color D, work a clean edging around the neckline, both front openings, and lower curved edges. Use one round of slip stitch or very even sc. At the neckline center, stitch on one tiny bobble, bead substitute, or crocheted button circle to imitate the small fastening.

Cardigan Flowers

Make two larger rose clusters and several flat blossoms in pink, lavender, and cream. Sew them to each front panel, keeping the arrangement symmetrical but not identical. The flowers sit low on the chest and just above the curved cardigan hem. Add two or three green leaves per side.

Beret

The hat is a small tilted beret in the same light cream used on the bear. It sits on the upper left side of the head and angles slightly backward. Keep it shallow rather than deeply domed so the bow remains the main headpiece feature.

1. With Color A, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rounds 7 to 8: sc around. (36)
8. Round 9: BLO sc around. (36)
9. Round 10: (4 sc, dec) around. (30)
10. Round 11: sc around. (30)

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Flatten very lightly and sew only along the lower back half so the front edge lifts a little. This keeps the hat from looking like a cap. The tilt matters and should feel elegant rather than centered.

Bow

1. With Color B, ch 21.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch and across. (20)
3. Rows 2 to 8: ch 1, turn, sc across.

Fasten off. Wrap the center tightly with matching yarn to form a broad bow. For a fuller shape, pinch the middle twice before wrapping. Sew the bow across the front-left of the beret so it overlaps the hat and partially covers that side of the head.

Shoes

The shoes are rounded Mary Jane-style slippers in dusty rose with a cream sole edge and thin strap detail. They should fit over the crocheted feet snugly. Make them slightly shallow so the top of the foot still shows under the strap opening.

1. With Color B, ch 7.
2. Work an oval around the chain: 5 sc, 3 sc in end, 4 sc on opposite side, 2 sc in final. (14)
3. Increase to about 20 stitches over the next round.
4. Work 2 rounds in BLO to form the sole edge.
5. Work one shaping round with 4 dec across the toe section.
6. Work 1 to 2 even rounds.

For the strap, join yarn at one side opening, ch 6 to 8, attach across the instep, and sew firmly. Add a tiny cream stitch at the side to suggest a fastening. Make two and sew or slip onto the feet before final dress arrangement.

Small Purse

The handbag on the left side of the display is a structured mini purse in dusty rose with a rounded flap and a single top handle. It should stand on its own if lightly stuffed or lined with a small piece of plastic canvas.

1. With Color B, ch 11.
2. Work an oval base to 22 stitches.
3. Rounds 2 to 6: sc around in a rectangle-oval form.
4. Fasten off for the body.
5. For the flap, attach yarn to the back upper edge and work 8 to 10 rows back and forth, decreasing at the corners to round the flap.
6. For the handle, ch 16 to 18 and sew both ends to the top sides.

Add a tiny circular crocheted button shape to the center of the flap. A single backstitch line around the flap edge makes the purse look more finished. Keep the proportions cute and compact rather than realistic.

Flower Wreath

The wreath is a slim ring covered with clustered flowers in pink, lavender, and cream. It lies flat in front of the bear. Use a chain loop foundation or wrap flowers around a thin crocheted ring.

1. With Color E, ch 24 and join into a ring.
2. Work sc around. (24)
3. Make 7 to 9 tiny flowers in mixed shades.
4. Sew the flowers densely around the front and sides of the ring.

Let some of the green base show between blossoms. The wreath should feel airy and decorative, not packed too tightly. Slight overlap between flowers gives the rounded, garden-like effect seen in the image.

Flat Unicorn Pouch

This accessory is a flat pink pouch or clutch with a white unicorn applique and a curved top edge. It appears lightly padded but mostly flat. Work two matching panels, then add the applique and strap loop before joining.

Base Panels

1. With Color B, ch 18.
2. Work an oval around the chain to about 34 stitches.
3. Work 5 to 6 rounds even, keeping the shape softly rectangular with rounded corners.
4. Make a second matching panel.

Top Opening and Strap

Join the two panels around the sides and bottom only, or fully join and add a decorative top seam if you prefer it as a display pouch. Add a short looped strap at one upper corner in pink. A cream edge around the top helps match the image.

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Unicorn Applique

For the body, make a small white oval. Add four slim legs, a neck, and a head with a pointed muzzle. Use pale pink strands for mane and tail. Sew the unicorn across the front panel so it stretches horizontally. Keep the shape simple and graphic rather than highly detailed.

Tiny Deer Companion

The small companion animal appears deer-like, with a tan head and body, darker lower legs, small upright ears, and a tiny outfit matching the main bear. Its body is slim and doll-like. Work it firmly and keep the neck straight so the tiny hat and cardigan sit neatly.

Head

1. With Color G, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rounds 5 to 8: sc around. (24)
6. (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
7. Sc around. (18)

Insert tiny eyes between rounds 5 and 6. Add a small dark nose near the snout tip. The muzzle can be lightly needle-sculpted or made as a tiny separate oval if desired. Keep the face sweet and simple.

Ears

Make two tiny ears with 5 sc in MR, increase to 8 or 10 stitches, then work one even round. Flatten slightly and sew high on the head. Use a darker brown stitch at the base if you want more definition.

Body and Legs

Make two legs starting in Color F for the hooves, then switch to Color G. Work them narrow, around 8 to 10 stitches each. Join both legs and continue the body for several rounds. The deer should stay slim, with a tiny waist and short torso.

Arms

Make two slender arms in Color G with slightly darker hands if desired. Sew them close to the torso so the cardigan sleeves fit without bulk. The finished arms should angle down at the sides.

Tiny Skirt

Use Color D and work a small flared skirt from the waist. Add one delicate pink hem round. Keep it short, ending above the knees. The tiny skirt should echo the main dress without copying every flower detail.

Tiny Cardigan

Work a cropped cardigan in Color B with a cream edging. It only needs simple front panels and sleeves. Add one tiny cream dot at the neckline for the button detail. Because of the scale, keep the shaping minimal and rely on neat sewing for the final look.

Tiny Hat

Make a tiny pink beret with a tan or cream edge and sew it at a slight angle. It should be very small and decorative, sitting high on the head. A little tilt gives the same dressed-up personality seen in the image.

Tiny Flower Bag

The deer holds a very small pouch or basket with a flower accent. Make a mini oval bag in cream or pink, add a short handle, and sew on one rose blossom. Keep it tiny enough to fit beside the body without hiding the skirt.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the main bear head, muzzle, ears, arms, and legs.
2. Dress the bear in the cream dress.
3. Sew or place the shoes.
4. Add the cardigan and stitch it in place lightly at the shoulders if needed.
5. Sew on cardigan flowers.
6. Attach the beret, then the bow.
7. Embroider the face and final expression details.
8. Make and finish the purse, wreath, and unicorn pouch.
9. Build the tiny deer and dress it fully.
10. Arrange all accessories as a coordinated display set.

Take your time during layout. The image works because each item feels intentionally matched. Keep all floral shades balanced across the set. If one area looks too pink or too lavender, shift one flower to another accessory so the entire display looks harmonious.

Color Placement Guide

• Main bear base: pale blush cream
• Cardigan: dusty rose
• Dress: warm cream with dusty rose and lavender flowers
• Bow: dusty rose
• Shoes: dusty rose
• Purse: dusty rose
• Wreath flowers: dusty rose, lavender, cream
• Unicorn pouch base: dusty rose with white applique
• Tiny deer body: tan with darker brown accents
• Tiny deer outfit: rose and cream

Shaping Tips for Accuracy

Head: Keep it very round and slightly oversized. Do not under-stuff the crown.

Muzzle: Use only light stuffing so it stays softly domed and wide.

Body: The torso should be smaller than the clothing silhouette.

Legs: Short legs and broad feet are important for the doll-like look.

Dress: The skirt needs enough flare to display the flower band clearly.

Cardigan: Keep the front edges curved and neat.

Beret and bow: Place them off-center rather than straight on top.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After everything is attached, step back and check the expression first. The eyes, brows, nose placement, and muzzle height determine whether the bear looks gentle and polished. Add tiny stitches only when needed. A very small downward embroidery line under each eye can create extra softness, but keep it subtle.

Arrange the cardigan so the front edges sit evenly over the dress. Adjust the flowers before securing every stitch. Place the beret and bow last, because their angle changes the whole personality of the doll. For the tiny deer, keep the face simple and upright so it reads clearly beside the bear.

Care Notes

• Display use is best for this detailed set.
• Store away from direct sunlight to protect the pastel shades.
• Do not hang the bear by the headpiece or cardigan.
• Keep tiny accessories together in a small box or fabric bag.
• If gifting to a young child, replace safety eyes with embroidery and secure every accessory firmly.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are the eyes centered and evenly spaced?
• Does the muzzle sit level and rounded?
• Do both ears match in height?
• Does the skirt flare evenly all around?
• Are the cardigan flowers balanced on both fronts?
• Is the beret tilted and the bow firmly attached?
• Do the shoes sit flat?
• Are all accessories completed and color-coordinated?
• Does the tiny deer visually match the main bear?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Avoid soaking, because the stuffed shapes and attached flowers may lose definition. Gently blot and reshape by hand, then air dry flat on a towel away from heat.

For long-term preservation, keep the set in a clean, dry place with low humidity. Acid-free tissue can be tucked lightly around delicate accessories during storage. Do not compress the flowers, bow, or cardigan fronts. A glass-front shelf or covered display area helps prevent dust buildup.