Lupine Velvet-Postlane Bunny – Crochet

This charming amigurumi set features a soft long-eared bunny dressed in a romantic lavender outfit with a matching crossbody bag, flowered skirt, beret, and dainty shoes. It has the look of a handmade collectible doll, boutique nursery décor piece, and giftable crochet plush that buyers often search for when shopping for artisan toys.

The design also includes the tiny companion figure, the wrapped lupine bouquet, and the small book accessory shown beside the main doll. The finished set feels like a premium stuffed bunny display, an heirloom amigurumi animal, and a sweet spring shelf decoration that fits well in handmade gift, baby shower, and Easter basket shopping searches.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This design is built to match the image closely, with a large cream bunny as the centerpiece and a smaller companion figure dressed in a coordinated outfit. The main silhouette is gentle and rounded, with a broad head, short neck, slim body, long drop ears, soft beret, puffed sleeves, and a lightly flared skirt.

The visual charm comes from contrast in texture and color. The head, ears, hands, and legs are smooth and simple. The sweater is richer and deeper in color. The skirt is pale and airy. The embroidered lupine motifs create the most important decorative detail, so work them neatly and place them carefully.

The instructions below are written for an intermediate beginner and above, but the construction is broken into manageable steps. Work slowly, stuff lightly but evenly, and compare your proportions often. The set looks best when the pieces are not overstuffed and when the clothing sits softly instead of appearing rigid.

Materials

• Main yarn colors: cream, dusty lavender, deep plum-purple, pink-lilac, blue-lilac, green, beige, warm taupe, and a tiny amount of soft brown.
• Optional texture note: use standard cotton or cotton-blend yarn for the doll and accessories. A slightly plush yarn may be used for the sweater if you want extra richness, but keep the stitch definition visible.
• Hook sizes: one main hook for the doll, one slightly smaller hook for crisp accessories and clothing edges.
• Safety eyes: black eyes for the bunny and smaller black eyes for the companion figure.
• Fiberfill for stuffing.
• Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery.
• Stitch markers.
• Small button or button-like bead for the bag flap closure detail.
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for optional sole inserts and the book cover interior.
• Embroidery thread or split yarn strands for floral details and facial shaping.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• rep = repeat

Finished Size

The main bunny should stand about 11 to 13 inches tall from the soles to the top of the beret, depending on yarn and tension. The companion figure should be about 4 to 5 inches tall. The bouquet should be short enough to rest near the bunny’s shoes, and the little book should look hand-sized beside the doll.

Important Notes Before You Begin

• Work in continuous rounds unless a row is clearly stated.
• Stuff the limbs lightly and the head firmly enough to hold shape.
• The bunny’s face is low and wide, not tall and narrow.
• The ears are long, soft, and attached beneath the beret line so they fall downward.
• The skirt should flare gently, not stand out stiffly.
• The lupine embroidery appears in vertical floral clusters with green leaves at the base.
• The bag is small and neat with a pointed flap and long strap.

Main Bunny

Head

Using cream yarn, begin with a rounded head that is slightly wider than it is tall. This is important because the doll in the image has a sweet, broad face with full cheeks and a smooth forehead. Keep the increases even so the head stays symmetrical.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
11. Rnd 11-21: sc around. (60)

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Insert the eyes between Rnds 14 and 15 with about 10 stitches between them, adjusting as needed for your yarn. The eyes should sit wide apart to keep the expression calm and childlike. Add a little extra stuffing behind the cheeks before closing the head.

1. Rnd 22: (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
2. Rnd 23: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
3. Rnd 24: (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
4. Rnd 25: (5 sc, dec) around. (36)
5. Rnd 26: (4 sc, dec) around. (30)

Pause here to embroider the small triangular nose in soft brown or dusty taupe. Place it centered a little below the eye line. Add a short vertical stitch beneath it, then a faint curved smile. Keep the features delicate because the face in the image is understated.

Continue stuffing until the head feels smooth and full without becoming hard.

1. Rnd 27: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
2. Rnd 28: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)

Fasten off with a long tail if you want to sew the head later. If you prefer a joined construction, leave the round open and continue directly into the neck and body.

Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and softly weighted, with rounded tips and no inner ear panel visible from the front. They should fall straight down from beneath the beret and reach to around the chest area. Make 2 in cream.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-8: sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 9: (7 sc, dec) twice. (16)
6. Rnd 10-24: sc around. (16)
7. Rnd 25: (6 sc, dec) twice. (14)
8. Rnd 26-34: sc around. (14)

Do not stuff the ears. Flatten the top opening and leave a long tail for sewing. After sewing, the ears should angle slightly backward at the attachment point so they drape naturally beside the face.

Neck and Body

The body is modest and slim with a slight shoulder line and a soft pear shape. It should support the sweater without making the outfit bulky. Use cream yarn.

1. Rnd 1: From the head opening or as a new piece, work 18 sc around.
2. Rnd 2-3: sc around. (18)
3. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
4. Rnd 5-8: sc around. (24)
5. Rnd 9: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 10-14: sc around. (30)
7. Rnd 15: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
8. Rnd 16-20: sc around. (36)

Stuff lightly as you go. The waist should not bulge because the skirt and sweater sit over the body. The lower body serves mostly as structure and should remain smooth. Fasten off if sewing to the legs later, or continue into your preferred joined-body method.

Legs

The legs are straight, slender, and lightly stuffed. The feet are hidden inside the Mary Jane shoes, so focus more on stable shape than on detailed toes. Make 2 in cream.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-5: sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 6: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc. (14)
6. Rnd 7-20: sc around. (14)

Stuff the feet a little more firmly than the legs. Flatten the top of each leg and leave a tail for sewing. Attach the legs evenly beneath the body so the bunny can stand with support or sit with the shoes pointing forward.

Arms

The arms are medium length with slightly wider sleeves added later over the upper arm area. The hands are simple and cream-colored. Make 2.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR with cream.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3-6: sc around. (12)
4. Change to deep plum-purple for the sweater sleeve base.
5. Rnd 7-16: sc around. (12)

Stuff only the hand and lower arm. Leave the upper sleeve area soft. Flatten the opening and sew the arms at the shoulder line just below the head. Angle them slightly downward so they rest naturally at the bunny’s sides.

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Clothing and Accessories for the Main Bunny

Beret

The beret is one of the defining details in the image. It is soft, slightly slouched, and worn low over the top of the head. It is not a tight cap. Use dusty lavender.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
11. Rnd 11: (9 sc, inc) around. (66)
12. Rnd 12-16: sc around. (66)
13. Rnd 17: BLO, (9 sc, dec) around. (60)
14. Rnd 18: (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
15. Rnd 19: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
16. Rnd 20: sc around. (48)

Try the beret on the head. It should sit low and gently puff at the crown. If needed, add or remove one decrease round to fit your tension. Finish with a clean edge. Lightly steam or shape by hand.

Beret Bow

The side bow is small, neat, and made in the same color as the beret. It sits near the bunny’s right side in the photo. Make a compact bow rather than a large floppy one.

1. Ch 11.
2. Row 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, sc across. (10)
3. Row 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (10)

Fasten off, wrap the center tightly with matching yarn, and shape two small loops. For the tails, make a tiny strip or use thread wraps only. Sew the bow to the beret edge so it tilts outward slightly.

Neck Tie or Collar Bow

The neck detail looks like a soft tied scarf with rounded loops. Use deep plum-purple. It frames the neckline and helps blend the sweater and head beautifully.

1. Ch 36.
2. Work 1 sc in each chain across.
3. Turn and work another row of sc, adding 2 extra stitches at each end for softly rounded tips.

Wrap it around the neck and tie or stitch into a bow shape. Make two loops and two short ends. The bow should sit full at the center front, just below the chin.

Sweater

The sweater is deep plum-purple with a slightly plush look and mild fullness at the sleeves. It ends around the waist and has a simple lower edge. The flower embroidery sits on the front lower area, so keep that region smooth and easy to stitch into later.

You may work the sweater directly on the body from the neckline downward, or make it separately and sew it on. A worked-on-body method gives the neatest fit.

1. Join deep plum-purple at the neckline.
2. Rnd 1: 24 sc evenly around the neck opening.
3. Rnd 2: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
4. Rnd 3: sc around.
5. Rnd 4: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
6. Rnd 5-7: sc around.

For sleeves, mark arm openings on each side. Skip the appropriate stitches for the underarm and continue around the body. Then return to each armhole and build the sleeves downward.

1. Body Rnds 8-12: sc around the torso opening. Keep the fit close but not stretched.
2. Sleeves: join at the armhole and work 12 to 14 stitches around. Crochet 8 to 10 rounds depending on your arm length.
3. On the final sleeve round, add a tiny flared cuff by working a few increases evenly.

The sleeves in the image are not dramatic balloons, but they do have a gentle fullness. Keep the cuff edge soft and slightly rolled if desired. Fasten off neatly. The lower sweater edge should sit just above the skirt waistband.

Front Lupine Embroidery on Sweater

This floral embroidery is central to the look. Use green for leaves and stems, pale lilac, mid lilac, and blue-lavender for blossoms. Place three vertical flower groups across the lower front of the sweater, with the middle cluster slightly taller.

• Stitch a short green stem for each cluster.
• Add two or four pointed leaves near the base.
• Build each flower upward using tiny straight stitches or knot-like textured stitches.
• Blend light and medium purple shades for the petals.
• Keep the blossoms tapered, wider at the lower area and narrower near the tip.

Do not overcrowd the flowers. The image shows clean clusters spaced apart, not dense all-over embroidery. The flowers should be easy to see but still delicate.

Skirt

The skirt is dusty pink-lilac and lightly flared with distinct panels, openwork eyelet details, and embroidered flower clusters near the hem. This part defines the outfit, so do not rush it. Work the waistband first, then build a gentle A-line shape.

1. With pink-lilac, ch enough to fit around the waist snugly.
2. Join without twisting.
3. Rnd 1-2: sc around for a stable waistband.
4. Rnd 3: (5 sc, inc) around to begin the flare.
5. Rnd 4-5: sc around.
6. Rnd 6: create subtle eyelet detail with a repeated sequence such as ch 1, skip 1, sc in next, spaced evenly.
7. Rnd 7: sc around, working into chains and stitches to secure the eyelets.
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around.
9. Rnd 9-11: sc or hdc around, depending on your preferred drape.

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To mimic the paneled look, mark the skirt into evenly spaced sections and use slight ridge lines, BLO rounds, or faint seam embroidery afterward. The hem should be soft and a little scalloped, not sharply frilled.

1. Final Round: work a shallow scallop edge using a repeating sequence of sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st across the hem.

Once the skirt shape is complete, embroider smaller lupine clusters around the lower half, centered within the visual panels. Use the same color family as the sweater flowers, but keep these slightly shorter.

Shoes

The shoes are dusty mauve Mary Janes with a strap across the top. They should look tidy, rounded, and proportionate to the slim legs. Make 2.

1. With mauve, ch 7.
2. Rnd 1: work around the chain to create an oval sole.
3. Rnd 2-3: sc around, increasing slightly at toe and heel.
4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around to form the side wall.
5. Rnd 5-6: sc around.
6. Rnd 7: shape the toe with a few front decreases.

Try the shoes on before finishing. Add a thin sole insert if you want extra structure. For the strap, chain a short strip and sew one end to the side of the shoe. Cross it over the instep and secure with a tiny decorative knot or bead-like stitch.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is small, beige, and triangular-flapped with a long narrow strap. It sits crossbody from the bunny’s left shoulder to the right hip. The flap has a centered button detail.

1. With beige, ch 13.
2. Row 1: sc across. (12)
3. Row 2-8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)

Fold the rectangle so the bottom is wider than the front flap area. Sew the sides, leaving the top open. For the flap, work a small triangle or angled piece separately, then sew it above the front opening.

1. Flap: ch 9.
2. Row 1: sc across. (8)
3. Row 2 and onward: dec at each end until a point forms.

Add a long chain or cord strap and sew it securely to both upper corners. Attach a tiny button or embroidered French-knot-like circle to the front center.

Companion Figure

The smaller companion in the image has rounded ears and a sweet matching outfit. It reads best as a little mouse or tiny bear-style friend, but the long thin tail visible near the beret suggests a mouse-like companion. This version follows that visual impression closely.

Head and Body

Use warm beige for the head and body, cream for tiny hands and feet if desired, and black for the small eyes. The shape is compact and upright.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5-10: sc around. (24)

Insert smaller eyes between the middle rounds. Embroider a tiny nose in cream or pale pink and a short mouth line. Stuff the head lightly.

1. Rnd 11: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
2. Rnd 12: sc around. (18)
3. Rnd 13: (sc, inc) around. (27)
4. Rnd 14-18: sc around. (27)
5. Rnd 19: (sc, dec) around as needed to taper. Stuff lightly.

Ears, Arms, Legs, and Tail

• Ears: make 2 small circles in warm beige, optionally with a lighter inner round. Sew high on the head.
• Arms: tiny tubes, lightly stuffed only at the hands.
• Legs: short tubes with slightly flattened feet.
• Tail: a thin chain or crocheted cord in warm beige, sewn low at the back.

Companion Outfit

Dress the companion in a miniature version of the main outfit. Use deep plum-purple for the top and neck bow, pink-lilac for the skirt, beige for the crossbody bag, and lavender for the beret.

Keep the floral embroidery minimal but visible. Even two or three tiny flower clusters are enough. The small figure should clearly coordinate with the main bunny without becoming too crowded with detail.

Bouquet

The bouquet contains several tiny lupine stems in lavender, blue-lilac, and pale purple with green leaves and wrapped beige stems. Make 3 to 5 flower spikes of slightly different heights.

1. For each stem, ch 10 to 14 with green.
2. Along one side, add tiny picot-like or sc-based petal bumps in purple shades to create a tapered flower spike.
3. Add one or two small green leaves near the lower stem.

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Bundle the stems together and wrap the lower portion with beige yarn. Stitch lightly to hold the bundle. Keep the bouquet slim and delicate so it matches the image scale.

Mini Book

The small book is lavender with a wrap or tie detail. It should look soft but rectangular. Crochet two matching rectangles for the cover, then add a white or cream inner page block made from felt, fabric, or a simple folded insert.

1. With lavender, ch 13.
2. Row 1: sc across. (12)
3. Row 2-18: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)

Fold around the insert and seam gently along the spine edges if needed. Add a narrow wrap band or short tie at the right side. The book in the image is understated, so keep the embellishment minimal.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body securely and make sure it faces straight forward. Attach the ears low enough that the beret can overlap their tops. Add the arms at the shoulder line and the legs evenly beneath the torso so the posture stays balanced.

Place the beret low and slightly angled. Sew the side bow in position. Add the neck bow close beneath the chin. Dress the bunny in the sweater and skirt, then place the shoes and crossbody bag. The strap should travel diagonally across the chest exactly as shown.

For the face, keep the expression soft. If needed, add tiny cheek shading with pastel or very light blush. Do not overdo the mouth or nose. The beauty of this doll is the calm, simple expression.

Care Notes

• Spot clean first whenever possible.
• Handle embroidered flowers gently to avoid snagging.
• Store the bouquet and book separately if the set is used for display.
• Keep the bag strap from pulling too tightly across the body during storage.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are the bunny eyes level and evenly spaced?
• Do both ears hang at the same height?
• Does the beret sit low with a soft slouch?
• Is the neck bow centered?
• Are the sweater flowers balanced across the front?
• Does the skirt flare gently with visible panel rhythm?
• Are both shoes aligned and secure?
• Does the beige bag sit diagonally across the outfit?
• Does the companion figure clearly match the main bunny set?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term care, dust the set lightly with a clean dry brush. If deeper cleaning is needed, use cool water, mild soap, and a soft cloth. Avoid aggressive rubbing, especially on the embroidered lupines and tiny accessory details.

Reshape while damp and dry flat on a towel away from direct sunlight. Do not hang the doll by the bag strap or ears. If the beret or skirt softens over time, gently reshape by hand and allow it to air dry in place.

For display pieces, keep the set away from moisture, pets, and prolonged sun exposure. If storing, wrap each item in clean tissue and place it in a breathable container. This helps preserve stitch shape, color clarity, and the overall boutique finish of the set.