Bluebell Sheep Meadow Bunny – Crochet

This elegant amigurumi set brings together a sweet long-eared bunny, a softly flared floral dress, a matching brim hat, Mary Jane shoes, a tiny crossbody purse, a miniature teacup with saucer, a small book, and a woodland squirrel holding an acorn. It suits readers searching for a crochet bunny doll pattern, amigurumi rabbit doll, or handmade nursery gift.

The finished scene has a warm cottage look that feels collectible, giftable, and display ready. It also fits popular shopping-style searches such as crochet doll outfit, amigurumi animal set, heirloom crochet toy, and artisan stuffed bunny, while still being approachable for careful beginners who enjoy detailed step-by-step construction.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

This pattern is written to recreate the full set shown in the image as closely as possible. The bunny has a rounded head, a narrow neck, a softly stuffed torso, long straight legs, relaxed tapered arms, and long floppy ears that fall beneath the hat brim.

The outfit is essential to the finished look. The dress is sage green with pale cream floral blocks worked directly into the fabric. The sleeves are lightly ruffled and sit high on the shoulder. A narrow belt defines the waist, and the skirt spreads outward in a gentle bell shape.

The accessories are not optional if you want the piece to match the image. The hat is a bucket-style cloche with a clean crown and a downward brim. The purse is small, square-rounded, decorated with one flower, and worn crossbody with a heart-shaped buckle detail at the waist.

The shoes are flat Mary Janes with a neat strap and tiny decorative flower accents. The squirrel companion is plump and upright, with a cream belly, warm brown back, tiny ears, a curled tail, and a dark acorn held close to the chest.

Skill Level

Advanced beginner to intermediate. The shapes are built from basic stitches, but success depends on tidy tension, neat color changes, careful assembly, and patience with small accessories. A confident beginner can complete this set by working slowly and checking proportions often.

Finished Size

• Bunny doll: about 11 to 13 inches tall including head and body, not including hat brim lift.
• Squirrel: about 4 to 5 inches tall sitting upright.
• Teacup and saucer: miniature display size.
• Book: about 1 inch tall.
• Purse: scaled to rest at the bunny’s hip.

Size will vary with yarn weight, stuffing density, and hook choice. The image suggests a tight, even stitch texture with little visible stuffing between stitches. Keep your tension firm enough that the fabric looks smooth and polished.

Materials

• Smooth cotton or cotton-blend yarn in light cream for bunny body, muzzle area, teacup, saucer, and book pages.
• Sage green yarn for dress, hat, shoes, book cover, purse, and trim.
• Very pale blush pink yarn for nose and light cheek shading if desired.
• Light taupe or beige yarn for inner ear shading.
• Warm medium brown yarn for squirrel body and tail.
• Dark brown yarn for squirrel vest and acorn cap.
• Tan yarn for acorn lower half.
• Soft pink yarn for squirrel feet.
• Black safety eyes for bunny and squirrel, or embroidered substitute for children under three.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Appropriate hooks for a dense amigurumi fabric.
• Tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Straight pins or doll pins for assembly.
• Thin plastic canvas or felt scraps for stabilizing purse, hat brim, and shoe soles if needed.

Suggested Color Palette

• Main bunny: soft cream.
• Primary dress and accessories: dusty sage green.
• Dress motifs: pale cream.
• Squirrel main body: warm golden brown.
• Squirrel belly: cream.
• Woodland details: dark walnut and acorn tan.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• st = stitch
• rep = repeat

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General Notes

• Work the bunny, squirrel, teacup, saucer, purse, and most small pieces in continuous rounds unless noted.
• Mark the first stitch of each round.
• Stuff firmly but not harshly. The image shows smooth shaping with no lumpy corners.
• Use invisible decreases wherever possible for a cleaner finish.
• Colorwork on the dress can be done with intarsia-style bobbins, tapestry crochet, or duplicate stitch after completion.

If you prefer simplicity, crochet the dress in sage green first and then embroider or surface-stitch the pale motifs. However, for the closest match to the image, work or overlay the motifs so they look integrated into the fabric rather than added as flat decoration later.

Bunny Head

The head is almost spherical but slightly wider through the cheek area than at the crown. The muzzle is subtle, not protruding sharply. The lower face is soft and childlike, with small black eyes placed moderately wide apart and a tiny pink nose centered low between them.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts.
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts.
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts.
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts.
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) around. 48 sts.
9. Rounds 9 through 16: sc around.

Place the bunny eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, leaving about 10 to 12 stitches between them depending on your gauge. The eyes in the image are glossy black and small enough to keep the expression gentle. Do not oversize them.

Begin stuffing the head once the eye placement is secured. Keep the cheeks smooth and full. Avoid overstuffing the top center, since the hat needs to sit naturally without lifting too high. A slightly flattened top dome actually improves the final silhouette.

1. Round 17: (6 sc, dec) around. 42 sts.
2. Round 18: (5 sc, dec) around. 36 sts.
3. Round 19: (4 sc, dec) around. 30 sts.
4. Round 20: (3 sc, dec) around. 24 sts.
5. Round 21: (2 sc, dec) around. 18 sts.

Do not finish off yet if you want to work a short neck directly from the head. Otherwise leave a long tail for sewing. The head should now appear rounded, compact, and proportionate to a slim body, with the face occupying the lower front half rather than the center.

Neck

The neck is visible in the image and should be narrower than both the head and the upper torso. It gives the doll a refined figure. A short neck of even stitches creates the elegant upright posture that makes the dress and hat look balanced.

1. Round 22: sc around in BLO. 18 sts.
2. Rounds 23 and 24: sc around.

Stuff the neck firmly. If your yarn is soft, insert a rolled felt strip, a plastic support tube, or a tightly crocheted inner column to prevent drooping. The head in the image sits upright and does not wobble forward.

Body and Torso

The upper torso is modestly narrow, then expands slightly at the chest and waist area beneath the dress. Since much of the torso is covered, the shaping should remain simple and smooth. Do not make the body bulky, or the dress will not drape in the same neat way.

1. Round 25: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts.
2. Round 26: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts.
3. Rounds 27 through 31: sc around.
4. Round 32: (3 sc, dec) around. 24 sts.
5. Rounds 33 and 34: sc around.

Stuff the torso firmly but keep the waist a little narrower than the hips. The image suggests that the figure under the dress is compact and centered. Finish off with a long tail only if you made the body separately. Otherwise continue straight into the lower body if preferred.

Legs

The legs are long, slim, and straight, with very little knee shaping. They are cream colored and extend cleanly down from beneath the skirt. The doll stands in a balanced posed way, so both legs must match in length and stuffing density.

Make 2.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Rounds 4 and 5: sc around.
5. Round 6: (sc, dec) around. 12 sts.
6. Rounds 7 through 22: sc around.

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Stuff the lower foot area more firmly and the upper leg slightly less firmly. This gives a natural hang while still supporting the shoes. Leave long tails for sewing if the legs are separate. Check both legs against each other before fastening off.

Arms

The arms are softly tapered, slightly wider near the shoulder and narrower at the wrist. In the image they angle gently downward and slightly away from the body. They should not be overly stuffed, or they will stick out stiffly and break the calm silhouette.

Make 2.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: (sc, inc) around. 9 sts.
3. Round 3: (2 sc, inc) around. 12 sts.
4. Rounds 4 through 6: sc around.
5. Round 7: (2 sc, dec) around. 9 sts.
6. Rounds 8 through 18: sc around.

Lightly stuff only the lower half to two-thirds of each arm. Flatten the upper opening before sewing. Attach just below the sleeve ruffle line, angled so the hands rest near the side seams of the skirt.

Ears

The ears are long, soft, and floppy, with a gentle taper and rounded ends. They hang from high on the head but are mostly hidden under the hat brim at the top. The inner area is not strongly contrasted, though a faint taupe lining helps add depth.

Make 2.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Rounds 4 through 8: sc around.
5. Round 9: (4 sc, dec) around. 15 sts.
6. Rounds 10 through 18: sc around.
7. Round 19: (3 sc, dec) around. 12 sts.
8. Rounds 20 through 28: sc around.

Flatten each ear. Do not stuff. For a closer match, add a few inner rows in a slightly darker beige or surface stitch a subtle inner ear panel. Sew the ears high on the sides of the head so they fall straight downward.

Muzzle, Nose, and Cheek Detail

The bunny’s face is minimal. The nose is a tiny soft pink triangle or short satin-stitched wedge. A short line runs downward from the nose center, and the mouth is extremely subtle. The cheeks look slightly blushed, but only faintly.

• Embroider a tiny triangular nose centered between the eyes, one to two rounds lower than eye midpoint.
• Add one short vertical stitch below the nose.
• Create the lightest hint of a split smile only if desired.
• Brush or embroider pale blush very sparingly under each eye.

Do not overwork the face. Its charm comes from restraint. Large cheeks, heavy mouth lines, or dark blush will make the doll look different from the image.

Dress Bodice

The bodice is fitted and square-necked, with the top edge sitting wide across the chest. The floral motifs continue across the front, so plan your motif placement before beginning. The upper part should hug the torso neatly without looking tight.

You may crochet the bodice directly onto the body or make it separately and sew it in place. Direct construction gives the cleanest result and prevents bulk at the waist.

1. Using sage green, chain to fit around the upper torso snugly.
2. Join carefully without twisting.
3. Work several rounds of sc or hdc to create the fitted bodice depth.
4. Shape the neckline with short rows if needed.
5. Add pale cream floral motifs across the front panel while working or afterward.

The image shows clustered floral blocks rather than isolated tiny flowers. Think in terms of repeating soft four-petal or blossom-like shapes arranged across the sage background. Keep the pattern balanced, but not mechanically rigid.

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Sleeves

The sleeves are short, winged, and gently ruffled. They stand outward slightly from the shoulder and then fall softly. Each sleeve is decorated with pale blossom motifs that mirror the skirt and bodice. Their shape matters because they frame the face and purse strap.

Make 2 or work directly onto the armholes.

1. Attach sage green yarn at the shoulder opening.
2. Round 1: evenly spaced sc around the armhole.
3. Round 2: work (sc, hdc) repeats with occasional increases to encourage a slight flare.
4. Round 3: add pale cream motifs or stitch over previously marked floral areas.

The sleeves should be wider at the outer edge than at the shoulder seam. Do not make them droop too low. In the image they read as delicate flutter sleeves, not full cap sleeves.

Skirt

The skirt is full and bell-shaped, beginning at the waist and spreading steadily outward. It is not extremely gathered, but it has enough volume to sit away from the legs. The pale cream floral blocks are distributed all around the skirt, with the densest motif presence on the visible front.

1. Attach sage yarn at the waist.
2. Round 1: work evenly around the waistline.
3. Round 2: increase lightly every few stitches.
4. Round 3: sc around.
5. Round 4: increase lightly again.
6. Continue alternating plain rounds and increase rounds until the skirt reaches knee to lower-calf length on the doll.

Check the spread after every second round. The skirt in the image hangs in soft folds rather than stiff horizontal rings. If your yarn is rigid, steam lightly or line the inside with a soft underlayer to encourage the correct drape.

For the motif layout, place cream floral blocks at varying heights, but keep the lower front especially rich with blossoms. Use repeated petal clusters, tiny leaf-like shapes, and irregular garden-style spacing. The design should feel coordinated, not geometric.

Waist Belt and Heart Detail

A narrow belt wraps around the waist and visually anchors the crossbody strap. At the center front, where the strap crosses the belt, a tiny heart-shaped buckle or ring detail appears. This is small, but it is important to the finished look.

• Crochet a narrow strip in sage green long enough to fit snugly around the waist.
• Sew it flat over the bodice-skirt join.
• Form a tiny heart from embroidery thread, a crocheted cord, or a carefully shaped sewn loop.
• Attach the heart just off center where the purse strap meets the belt area.

Hat

The hat is a soft bucket-style cloche in the same sage green as the dress. The crown is rounded and shallow, and the brim turns outward and slightly downward. It sits low enough to cover the ear attachment area, yet high enough to keep the eyes fully visible.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts.
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts.
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts.
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts.
8. Rounds 8 through 13: sc around for crown depth.
9. Round 14: work in BLO and increase lightly around to begin the brim.
10. Rounds 15 through 18: sc or hdc around, increasing a few stitches evenly each round.

Test the fit often. The brim should frame the head without overwhelming it. If the brim flips upward too much, add one plain round. If it is too flat, insert a hidden fine cord or a ring of flexible support.

Shoes

The shoes are neat Mary Janes in sage green with cream edging and small top decorations. They should sit close to the feet rather than resemble slippers. The strap across the top is visible, and the overall shape is rounded and tidy.

Make 2.

1. Start with a small oval sole in sage green sized to the foot circumference.
2. Work one or two rounds upward without increasing much.
3. Shape the toe by decreasing slightly at the front sides.
4. Add a top opening that leaves part of the cream leg visible.
5. Crochet a narrow strap and sew across one side to the other.
6. Add a tiny cream flower or oval accent on each shoe top.

For structure, insert a small felt sole before closing the base. This helps the doll stand more evenly and keeps the shoe fronts from collapsing.

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Crossbody Purse

The purse is small and rounded-square, with a front flap look and a flower motif. It hangs at the bunny’s right hip in the image. The strap crosses from the left shoulder to the right side, passing diagonally across the bodice.

1. Round 1: create a small oval or rectangle with rounded corners in sage green.
2. Rounds 2 through 4: build shallow side walls with sc.
3. Make a matching back piece if preferred for extra firmness.
4. Add a small flap or top edge shaping.
5. Embroider or crochet one pale flower on the front.
6. Chain or crochet a narrow strap long enough to cross the body naturally.

Stuff the purse very lightly or line it with felt so it keeps a plump shape without bulging. Sew the strap securely to two top corners. Position the purse so it sits at hip height, not too low on the skirt.

Teacup and Saucer

The teacup is tiny and cream colored, placed on a matching saucer. It adds a cottage-table detail that completes the scene. Though small, it should look refined rather than chunky. Use a fine hook and maintain very tight tension.

Teacup

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: work in BLO, sc around.
4. Rounds 4 through 6: sc around to build the cup wall.
5. Round 7: sl st loosely around for a polished rim.

For the handle, chain 4 to 5, then slip stitch back and attach to the cup side. The handle should be delicate and rounded. Do not make it oversized or thick.

Saucer

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Round 4: work a shallow decorative edge using sl st or tiny hdc.

If desired, add a faint sage green edge to echo the dress palette, but keep the main saucer cream to match the image.

Miniature Book

The book is small, rectangular, and mostly cream with a sage green cover. It lies flat beside the teacup. This detail should look neat and slightly padded, like a tiny fabric-bound book resting on the table.

1. Crochet two tiny cream rectangles for page block faces.
2. Crochet one long sage rectangle to wrap around spine, front, and back.
3. Insert a scrap of felt or thin cardboard between layers for structure.
4. Whipstitch neatly around the edges.

Add a tiny central dot or line on the cover if you want the same subtle decorative finish seen in the image. Keep it understated.

Squirrel Body

The squirrel is plump, upright, and slightly shorter than the bunny’s knee height. It has a creamy belly and muzzle, warm brown head and back, small round ears, bead-like black eyes, and a large tail curving upward behind the body.

1. Round 1: with cream, 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Change gradually to brown across the back half.
5. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts.
6. Rounds 5 through 9: sc around.
7. Round 10: (2 sc, dec) around. 18 sts.
8. Rounds 11 through 14: sc around for upper body and head transition.
9. Round 15: (sc, dec) around as needed to shape the head top.

Stuff firmly, especially at the lower body so the squirrel sits solidly. Keep the front belly oval clean and symmetrical. The face should be compact and adorable, not elongated.

Squirrel Head Shaping and Face

If you prefer, you may work the head as part of the body or separately. The face has a small cream muzzle patch, glossy black eyes, and a short dark embroidered nose and mouth. The expression should feel gentle and alert.

• Place eyes low enough to create a cute rounded forehead.
• Add a cream muzzle patch if your colorwork transition was not crisp enough.
• Embroider a tiny inverted triangle nose in dark brown or black.
• Add a short vertical stitch and a soft curved smile line.

Squirrel Ears

Make 2 tiny ears in brown.

1. Round 1: 4 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: (sc, inc) twice. 6 sts.
3. Round 3: sc around.

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Flatten lightly and sew to the head top. The ears should sit close together but not touch, giving the squirrel a soft woodland look.

Squirrel Arms and Feet

The squirrel’s arms are tiny and curve inward to hold the acorn. The feet are pinkish and small, peeking from the base. These details are brief to make, but they strongly affect the finished pose.

Arms, make 2:

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR.
2. Rounds 2 through 5: sc around.

Feet, make 2:

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR with soft pink.
2. Round 2: sc around.

Sew the feet low on the body front, slightly apart. Sew the arms higher and angle them inward toward the center chest.

Squirrel Tail

The tail is large, vertically curved, and textured by shaping rather than complicated stitch pattern. It should rise from behind the body and curl softly to one side. This tail gives the squirrel its recognizable silhouette, so do not make it too small.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR with brown.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts.
4. Rounds 4 through 10: sc around.
5. Round 11: (4 sc, dec) around. 15 sts.
6. Rounds 12 through 18: sc around.

Stuff lightly, then flatten and curve the tail before sewing. Stitch it securely to the back so it stands upward with a gentle curl instead of flopping flat.

Squirrel Vest

The squirrel wears a tiny dark brown vest. It wraps the shoulders and chest lightly without covering the whole cream belly. This small garment adds contrast and echoes the cozy indoor setting.

• Chain enough to fit around the upper torso.
• Work short rows to form a back panel and two small front panels.
• Leave the center front open.
• Sew neatly at the shoulder line or around the sides.

The vest should look fitted and compact. Keep the hem above the squirrel feet and below the arms.

Acorn

The acorn has a tan lower half and a dark brown cap. It is held close to the squirrel chest, so the size should be proportional to both hands. Too large, and it hides the vest. Too small, and the detail disappears.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR with tan.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. Round 3: sc around.
4. Round 4: switch to dark brown and work in BLO.
5. Round 5: sc around.
6. Round 6: dec around lightly to close.

Stuff minimally. Sew between the squirrel hands after both arms are attached.

Assembly Order

1. Attach bunny legs to body.
2. Attach head securely to neck and torso.
3. Sew ears high on the head.
4. Embroider bunny nose and facial details.
5. Add dress bodice, sleeves, skirt, and belt if not already worked in place.
6. Sew arms beneath sleeve area.
7. Make and fit shoes.
8. Place hat on the head and tack lightly in a few hidden spots.
9. Attach purse strap and position purse at the right hip.
10. Assemble squirrel body, ears, feet, arms, tail, vest, and acorn.
11. Make teacup, saucer, and book.

Styling and Positioning Notes

The bunny should stand centered and upright, with the skirt spreading enough to frame the legs and shoes. The purse strap must cross the chest diagonally from left shoulder to right hip. The hat brim should sit low but not cover the eyes.

Place the squirrel beside the bunny, angled slightly inward. Set the teacup and saucer on the opposite side, with the book nearby. This arrangement recreates the balanced tabletop composition seen in the image.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Before sewing anything permanently, pin all major parts in place and view the doll from the front, side, and slight three-quarter angle. Check that the head is upright, both ears fall evenly, the sleeves match, and the skirt hangs level around the body.

Add the bunny’s tiny pink nose only after the eyes, hat, and ears are positioned. This helps you keep the face centered. The squirrel’s muzzle and acorn should also be aligned after the vest is attached, so nothing crowds the front.

Use hidden stitches wherever possible. Trim loose yarn ends completely. The finished set should look calm, polished, and soft, with every accessory scaled delicately to the bunny rather than looking oversized or simplified.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sunlight to protect the sage and cream colors.
• Dust gently with a soft dry brush.
• Do not hang by the hat, ears, purse strap, or squirrel tail.
• If gifting to a child, replace safety eyes with embroidery and secure all small parts firmly.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and stable.
• Ears sewn evenly and hanging below the hat.
• Hat brim level around the face.
• Dress motifs visible on bodice, sleeves, and skirt.
• Waist belt and heart detail attached.
• Purse flower centered and purse hanging at the right hip.
• Both shoes matched in height and shape.
• Squirrel tail curved upward.
• Acorn secured between squirrel hands.
• Teacup, saucer, and book finished neatly.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For light cleaning, use a dry soft cloth or a gentle lint-free brush. If deeper cleaning is needed, spot clean only with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap. Press with a towel and reshape while damp. Let every piece air dry completely.

Do not machine wash, twist, soak for long periods, or use high heat. To preserve the shape, store the bunny upright or wrapped in acid-free tissue inside a breathable box. Keep the squirrel tail, hat brim, and purse from being crushed during storage.