This sweet handmade pig doll is designed to look like a premium amigurumi collectible, with a frog raincoat, tiny crossbody bag, striped shirt, and leaf umbrella. It has the charm of a boutique crochet doll, the warmth of nursery decor, and the appeal of a thoughtful handmade gift.
If you love patterns inspired by designer amigurumi toys, cute animal dolls, and crochet gift ideas people often search to buy online, this one is made for you. The finished piece looks polished, soft, balanced, and display-ready while still being approachable for careful beginners.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern creates the full display shown in the image: a pig doll with a large round head, small rounded body, short arms, standing legs, green shoes, a blue-and-white striped shirt, a bright green frog raincoat with hood, two raised frog eyes, a small frog purse, and a large leaf umbrella accessory.
The shaping is intentionally gentle and soft. The proportions are important: the head is much larger than the body, the snout sits low and centered, the ears are tiny and tucked under the hood line, and the coat flares slightly near the hem. The finished look should feel calm, tidy, and slightly oversized in the head.
The instructions below are written in US English and use standard amigurumi methods. Work tightly and evenly. If your stitches are too loose, the doll will lose the firm sculpted look seen in the image.
Materials
- Main yarn for pig skin: light dusty pink, DK or light worsted cotton
- Raincoat, hood, shoes, purse, and umbrella stem wrap: medium grass green, DK or light worsted cotton
- Frog eye white: white yarn, small amount
- Frog eye pupil: black yarn, small amount
- Shirt stripes: white and soft medium blue yarn
- Leaf umbrella: fresh leaf green yarn, same weight as coat or slightly lighter
- Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
- Safety eyes: 8 mm for pig face
- Small black beads or black embroidery yarn: optional for extra shine details
- Crochet hook: 2.25 mm to 3 mm, depending on your yarn and tension
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch marker
- Scissors
- Thin floral wire or craft stem: optional for firmer umbrella stem
- Blush powder or pink pastel: optional for cheeks
- Two tiny buttons: green, decorative for coat front
Finished Size
Using DK cotton and a small hook, the pig doll itself should measure about 8.5 to 10 inches tall from head top to feet. With the hood on and the umbrella held upright, the total visual height will appear taller. The head should be about half the total doll height.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- rep = repeat
- st = stitch
Gauge and Tension Notes
Exact gauge is less important than proportion, but your stitches must be compact. The pig in the image has a dense fabric with no visible stuffing gaps. If your rounds start looking angular or loose, go down a hook size.
The coat and hood should feel slightly flexible, not stiff like cardboard. The face and head should be firmly stuffed. The body should be softer than the head, but still full enough to support the coat shape.
Color Plan
- Pink: head, snout, ears, arms, legs
- White and blue: striped shirt section
- Green: coat, hood, frog eye bases, shoes, purse, umbrella stem, leaf
- Black and white: frog eye details
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Head
Stuff the head firmly as you go. The head is nearly spherical, but slightly fuller at the cheeks. Keep your increases smooth and do not overstuff the top.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
- Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
- Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
- Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
- Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
- Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
- Rnd 11: (9 sc, inc) x 6. (66)
- Rnd 12: (10 sc, inc) x 6. (72)
- Rnd 13-24: sc around. (72 for 12 rounds)
- Rnd 25: (10 sc, dec) x 6. (66)
- Rnd 26: (9 sc, dec) x 6. (60)
- Rnd 27: (8 sc, dec) x 6. (54)
- Rnd 28: (7 sc, dec) x 6. (48)
- Rnd 29: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
Insert the safety eyes between Rnds 18 and 19, leaving 10 visible stitches between them. Because the snout is large and centered, the eyes should sit slightly wide and slightly low, not too high on the forehead.
Continue stuffing firmly, especially at the cheeks and chin.
- Rnd 30: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
- Rnd 31: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
- Rnd 32: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
Fasten off with a long tail if sewing directly to the body later. If you prefer to attach the head after making the body, leave the opening unclosed and add final stuffing during assembly.
Snout
The snout is a rounded oval disk with gentle projection. It should sit centered below the eyes and take up a generous portion of the lower face. Do not make it too small. The image clearly shows a soft, prominent spiral-like nose tip.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
- Rnd 6: sc around. (30)
- Rnd 7: BLO sc around. (30)
- Rnd 8: sc around. (30)
- Rnd 9: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
Lightly stuff the snout so it protrudes without becoming hard. Sew it between Rnds 19 and 27 of the head, centered exactly between the eyes.
For the nose detail, embroider one curved spiral or oval swirl in the center front using matching pink yarn one shade darker, then add two tiny nostril slits near the lower front of the snout. Keep it soft and simple.
Ears Make 2
The ears are small folded semicircles. They are tucked under the hood, so they should be subtle, not oversized.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: sc around. (18)
Flatten each ear and fold slightly. Sew them to the head around Rnds 13 to 15, one on each side, angled outward just a little. Most of each ear should be partly hidden under the hood edge.
Body
The body is small compared with the head and shaped like a soft pear. It should allow the striped shirt to show at the front while the coat sits over it. The neck area is narrow.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
- Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
- Rnd 7-10: sc around. (36 for 4 rounds)
- Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
- Rnd 12-14: sc around. (30 for 3 rounds)
- Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
- Rnd 16-17: sc around. (24 for 2 rounds)
- Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
- Rnd 19-21: sc around. (18 for 3 rounds)
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Stuff the lower body firmly but keep the upper body slightly softer. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the head.
Legs Make 2
The legs are short cylinders. They are mostly hidden by the coat, but enough is visible to show the pink legs leading into green shoes. Keep both legs equal in length.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3-10: sc around. (12 for 8 rounds)
Stuff lightly. Fasten off on the first leg. Make the second leg but do not fasten off if you want to join them through the body. If you prefer sewing, fasten off both.
Shoes Make 2
The shoes are rounded Mary Jane style and should hug the feet closely. The top opening is visible at the front. The strap is narrow and neat.
- With green, ch 7.
- Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side sc 4, inc in last st. (14)
- Rnd 2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20)
- Rnd 3: sc around in BLO. (20)
- Rnd 4: 5 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc. (18)
- Rnd 5: 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 4 sc. (16)
- Rnd 6: sc around. (16)
Flatten the opening slightly so the front becomes a shallow scoop. Slip the shoe over the finished leg and sew in place.
For the strap, join green yarn to one side opening, ch 4, skip across top opening, sl st to opposite side. Fasten off. You may tack the strap with one stitch so it lies flat.
Arms Make 2
The arms are short, slim, and soft. They hang naturally from inside the coat sleeves. They should reach to around the upper coat opening area, not below the hem.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x 3. (9)
- Rnd 3-9: sc around. (9 for 7 rounds)
Stuff only the lower half so the upper arm remains flexible. Flatten the top and sew closed. Leave a long tail for attaching.
Striped Shirt Panel
In the image, the striped shirt shows through the open front of the raincoat. The stripes are horizontal, narrow, and tidy. This panel can be made separately and sewn to the front torso, which gives the cleanest visual result.
Work in rows using white and blue. Change color every 2 rows.
- Ch 12.
- Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (11)
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (11)
- Rows 3-4: switch to blue, sc across. (11)
- Rows 5-6: switch to white, sc across. (11)
- Rows 7-8: switch to blue, sc across. (11)
- Rows 9-10: switch to white, sc across. (11)
- Rows 11-12: switch to blue, sc across. (11)
- Rows 13-14: switch to white, sc across. (11)
Fasten off, leaving a tail. This panel should cover the front center of the upper body from neckline to just below the waist. Sew it neatly in place before putting on the coat.
Raincoat Body
The raincoat is the defining feature. It should look like a front-opening coat with a slight flare at the hem and clear shaping around the neckline. The coat should fit over the body without pulling tight.
Work from the hem upward in rows so the front opening stays centered. The front edges should slightly overlap visually but remain mostly open to show the shirt.
- With green, ch 30.
- Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (29)
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (29)
- Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, 27 sc, inc. (31)
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (31)
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, inc, 29 sc, inc. (33)
- Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (33)
- Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (33)
- Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (33)
- Row 9: ch 1, turn, dec, 29 sc, dec. (31)
- Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (31)
- Row 11: ch 1, turn, dec, 27 sc, dec. (29)
- Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across. (29)
- Row 13: ch 1, turn, dec, 25 sc, dec. (27)
Now shape arm openings and upper front.
- Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc 5, ch 4, skip 4, sc 9, ch 4, skip 4, sc 5. (27 including chains)
- Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc across, working 4 sc into each ch-4 space. (27)
- Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc across. (27)
- Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc 6, dec, 11 sc, dec, 6 sc. (25)
- Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc across. (25)
- Row 19: ch 1, turn, sc 5, dec, 11 sc, dec, 5 sc. (23)
- Row 20: ch 1, turn, sc across. (23)
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Fasten off. Wrap around the body to test fit. Sew side seams under the arms, leaving the front open. The coat should sit just above the shoes and flare slightly at the bottom edge.
Coat Sleeves Make 2
The sleeves are short and slightly wide, ending around the wrist. They should allow the pink hands to show.
- Join green yarn around one armhole.
- Rnd 1: 14 sc evenly around. (14)
- Rnd 2-4: sc around. (14 for 3 rounds)
- Rnd 5: (5 sc, dec) x 2. (12)
- Rnd 6: sc around. (12)
Fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve.
Coat Edging and Front Band
To create the neat finished edges seen in the image, add a narrow border around the front opening, hem, and neckline.
- Join green yarn at lower front edge.
- Work 1 round or continuous edging of sc evenly up one front side, around neckline, and down the other front side.
- At the bottom corners, place 3 sc in each corner to keep the edge smooth.
- Along the hem, work one additional row of sc if needed for balance.
Sew two tiny decorative buttons to the front right side. The image shows the coat mostly open, so the buttons serve more as visual detail than a full closure.
Hood
The hood is rounded and roomy. It sits high around the face and frames the pig neatly. The top should curve gently backward, and the frog eyes sit on top near the front edge.
Work the hood in rows, then seam the top.
- With green, ch 28.
- Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (27)
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (27)
- Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, 25 sc, inc. (29)
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (29)
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, inc, 27 sc, inc. (31)
- Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (31)
- Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (31)
- Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (31)
- Row 9: ch 1, turn, dec, 27 sc, dec. (29)
- Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (29)
- Row 11: ch 1, turn, dec, 25 sc, dec. (27)
- Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc across. (27)
- Row 13: ch 1, turn, dec, 23 sc, dec. (25)
Fold the hood in half with right sides inward and seam across the top back. Turn right side out. Sew the hood to the coat neckline, leaving the front edge open and framing the face closely.
Frog Eyes for Hood
These two raised eye bumps are essential to the frog look. They should be round, slightly stuffed, and placed symmetrically on top front of the hood.
Green Eye Base Make 2
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: sc around. (18)
White Eye Circle Make 2
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
- Fasten off.
Black Pupil Make 2
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Fasten off.
Sew the black pupil onto the white circle slightly toward the lower center. Sew the completed white eye onto the green eye base. Add a tiny bit of stuffing inside the green base and attach each eye bump to the top front of the hood.
Place the eye bumps about 5 to 6 stitches apart, angled slightly outward. This small angle is important because it matches the sweet frog expression in the image.
Frog Purse
The purse is tiny and hangs diagonally across the coat. It should rest around the pig’s right hip area. The bag is oval and very small, just large enough to be cute rather than practical.
- With green, ch 5.
- Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, working opposite side sc 2, inc in last st. (10)
- Rnd 2: inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc. (16)
- Rnd 3: sc around in BLO. (16)
- Rnd 4: sc around. (16)
- Rnd 5: (6 sc, dec) x 2. (14)
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Make a second flat oval back piece if you want a firmer purse, or simply close the opening with stitching after light stuffing. Add two tiny white and black stitched frog eyes to the upper front.
For the strap, ch 26 to 32 depending on your doll size. Test diagonally across the body. Sew one end to the top left of the purse and the other end to the top right. Then tack the strap lightly to the coat at one shoulder so it stays in place.
Leaf Umbrella
The umbrella in the image looks like a large elephant ear style leaf held like a parasol. This accessory makes the design more whimsical. The leaf should be large, thin, and softly structured, with visible vein lines created by the shaping.
You may crochet the leaf around a center chain and lightly block it. If desired, insert a thin floral wire into the stem for firmness.
- With leaf green, ch 18.
- Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 16.
- At end, ch 1 and continue on opposite side of foundation, sc 16. (32 around)
- Row 2: inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc, inc. (36)
- Row 3: sc around. (36)
- Row 4: inc, 16 sc, 2 inc, 16 sc, inc. (40)
- Row 5: sc around. (40)
- Row 6: inc, 18 sc, 2 inc, 18 sc, inc. (44)
- Row 7: sc around. (44)
- Row 8: inc, 20 sc, 2 inc, 20 sc, inc. (48)
Continue shaping one more round if you want a larger leaf. To create the pointed tip, work one short row section at the top center: attach yarn at top, ch 1, sc 6, turn; dec, 2 sc, dec; turn; dec, dec. Fasten off.
For the central vein, embroider a line from stem to tip in slightly darker green. Add 3 or 4 angled side veins on each side. Do not overdo it. The leaf in the image is smooth and clean.
Umbrella Stem
- With green, ch 20.
- Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch. (19)
If using floral wire, wrap the crocheted strip around the wire and stitch closed. Sew the wide end of the stem to the base of the leaf. Place the finished stem into the pig’s hand and tack with a few hidden stitches.
Assembly Order
- Sew the snout to the head.
- Add ears to the head.
- Attach the striped shirt panel to the body front.
- Attach legs to the body.
- Attach shoes to legs if not already done.
- Sew the head to the body securely.
- Attach the arms.
- Sew and fit the coat around the body.
- Add sleeves.
- Attach the hood to the coat neckline.
- Add frog eyes to hood.
- Add buttons.
- Sew and position the frog purse and strap.
- Place the leaf umbrella into one hand.
Placement and Proportion Notes
The head should tilt very slightly forward for the gentle expression shown in the image. The coat hem should end above the shoes, with a soft A-line shape. The sleeves should reveal the pink hands. The purse should sit off-center and low.
The hood opening should not swallow the face. Keep the face visible from forehead to chin, with the frog eye bumps sitting above the brow line. The ears should peek only slightly from beneath the hood edge.
The snout should be centered and round, sitting below the eyes with enough space for a shy expression. Embroidered brows should be small and curved upward toward the middle, giving the doll its calm, tender look.
Facial Embroidery
Using thin dark brown or black embroidery yarn, stitch two tiny curved eyebrows above the eyes. Each brow should be about 3 stitches long and lightly arched. Keep them soft and not too dramatic.
If desired, add a faint blush to both cheeks just below the eyes and beside the snout. This helps match the warm rosy look in the image. Use blush very lightly and build color gradually.
Helpful Construction Tips
- Keep the neck narrow: this makes the oversized head look more authentic.
- Do not overstuff the body: the coat needs to drape lightly.
- Use invisible decreases: this keeps the face and head smooth.
- Sew the hood carefully: a well-placed hood changes the entire character.
- Test the purse length before sewing: it should cross the chest neatly.
- Block the leaf lightly: this helps the umbrella look elegant instead of floppy.
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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew every piece on with small, secure stitches and check symmetry from the front after each step. Add the eyebrows last, then adjust the blush, purse angle, and hood position. The finished pig should look centered, gentle, and balanced from head to toe.
Care Notes
Display indoors away from constant direct sun and high humidity. If this piece is intended for decor, avoid rough handling of the hood eyes, purse strap, and umbrella leaf. Spot cleaning is best unless all parts are firmly secured and colorfast.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head is larger than body and stuffed firmly
- Snout is centered and softly raised
- Eyes are even and slightly low on face
- Coat front stays open enough to show striped shirt
- Hood frames face neatly
- Frog eyes are evenly placed on hood top
- Shoes match in height and angle
- Purse sits diagonally across body
- Leaf umbrella is secure in hand
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Dust gently with a soft dry brush. For small marks, use a lightly damp cloth and blot instead of rubbing. Reshape while drying. Store flat or upright with tissue support around the hood and umbrella. Avoid crushing the snout, frog eye bumps, and leaf tip during storage.
