Knitting Tutorial: Floppy-Eared Dog in Cardigan – Free Knitting Pattern

This floppy-eared knitted dog is designed as a soft garden-style amigurumi with a large rounded head, cream muzzle, brown head patches, long drooping ears, shiny black eyes, and a black oval nose. The outfit includes an olive textured cardigan with tiny buttons, a striped dress, a crossbody bag with a bee charm, embroidered floral shoes, a matching Fair Isle hat, plus a small yarn basket and tiny bird companion.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in detailed US knitting terms for a display doll that closely follows the pictured floppy-eared dog. The finished toy has a standing seated-doll proportion, with a large head, narrow neck, rounded body, straight legs, short arms, oversized shoes, and layered removable-style accessories.

The dog is worked mostly in the round using double-pointed needles or magic loop. Small flat pieces, such as ears, cardigan bands, straps, and shoe uppers, are worked back and forth. The cardigan has a textured moss-and-cable look, while the dress and bag use narrow horizontal stripes.

Finished Size

• Dog height: about 12 inches from shoe sole to top of head, not including the flower clip.
• Head width: about 4 inches across the cheeks after stuffing.
• Body height: about 4 inches from neck to hem of dress.
• Leg length: about 3.25 inches from shoe top to body join.
• Ear length: about 3.75 inches, hanging beside the head.
• Cardigan length: about 3.25 inches from shoulder to lower edge.
• Bag size: about 2.25 inches wide and 1.75 inches tall.
• Hat size: about 3 inches wide and 1.75 inches tall.

Skill Level

Intermediate beginner to intermediate. A confident beginner can complete the toy by working slowly through the shaping sections. The pattern uses knit, purl, increases, decreases, simple color changes, seaming, embroidery, and small accessory construction.

Materials

• Yarn weight: DK or light worsted yarn. Use firm, smooth yarn for the dog body and slightly rustic yarn for the cardigan texture.
• Main cream yarn: 55 yards for muzzle, body, arms, legs, and head stripe.
• Warm brown yarn: 45 yards for head patches and floppy ears.
• Olive green yarn: 65 yards for cardigan, shoes, hat, bag trim, and flower leaves.
• Muted tan yarn: 25 yards for dress stripes, bag stripes, shoe edging, and hat details.
• Rust brown yarn: 15 yards for thin stripes, hat band, basket, and bird accents.
• Black yarn: 8 yards for nose, bee stripes, and optional eye securing stitches.
• Yellow yarn: 4 yards for bee body and small flower centers.
• Soft gray-blue yarn: 3 yards for flower petals and yarn balls.
• White yarn scraps: for bee wings and small highlights.
• Needles: US 3, 3.25 mm, double-pointed needles or long circular needle for magic loop.
• Smaller needles: US 2, 2.75 mm, for bag strap, shoe embroidery base, and tiny accessories.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Safety eyes: two 6 mm black eyes, or embroidered eyes for child-safe finishing.
• Buttons: five tiny tan buttons for cardigan front, one tiny button for each shoe, and one small button for the head flower center.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and embroidery.
• Stitch markers: one main round marker and several removable markers.
• Optional: row counter, pins, black sewing thread, and small amount of felt for stabilizing buttons.

Gauge

Gauge is important because the toy needs firm fabric. On US 3 needles in stockinette, aim for 7 stitches and 10 rounds per inch. The fabric should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. If your stitches look loose, move down one needle size.

• Body fabric gauge: 28 stitches and 40 rounds over 4 inches.
• Cardigan texture gauge: 26 stitches and 38 rows over 4 inches after light blocking.
• Accessory gauge: firm and slightly tight, with no visible gaps.

Abbreviations

• BO: bind off.
• CO: cast on.
• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• st or sts: stitch or stitches.
• rnd: round.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch, increasing 1 stitch.
• m1: make 1 stitch by lifting the strand between stitches and knitting through the back loop.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch.
• ssk: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit slipped stitches together through back loops.
• p2tog: purl 2 stitches together.
• sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise unless stated otherwise.
• pm: place marker.
• sm: slip marker.
• rep: repeat.
• MC: main cream yarn.
• BC: brown contrast yarn.
• OC: olive cardigan yarn.
• TC: tan contrast yarn.
• RC: rust contrast yarn.

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Construction Notes

The dog is built from separate stuffed pieces. The head is knitted as a rounded cream-and-brown shape with the cream blaze continuing down the front of the face. The muzzle is made separately and sewn on low and forward, creating the soft long snout seen in the picture.

The body is worked in cream first, then dressed with a striped skirt and cardigan layers. The arms are cream paws with olive sleeves. The legs are long cream tubes, and the oversized shoes are made separately so they look like soft embroidered slippers.

• Stuff firmly but gently. The head should be rounded, not hard.
• Shape with your hands often. Roll the head between your palms while stuffing.
• Use mattress stitch for visible seams. Keep joins clean and soft.
• Pin all pieces before sewing. This keeps the sitting, garden-doll posture balanced.
• Work stripes neatly. Twist yarns at the back on color changes to avoid holes.

Head

The head is large and rounded, with a cream center blaze and warm brown sides. The shaping below creates a wide forehead, full cheeks, and a narrowed lower face for the attached muzzle.

Head Base in Cream and Brown

Begin at the top of the head. Work in the round. Use MC for the cream center stripe and BC for the brown sides. If colorwork feels difficult, knit the entire head in MC first and duplicate stitch the brown side panels later.

1. With MC, CO 8 sts. Divide over needles and join in the round. Rnd 1: k all sts.
2. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. You now have 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: k all sts.
4. Rnd 4: k1, kfb around. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: k all sts.
6. Rnd 6: k2, kfb around. You now have 32 sts.
7. Rnd 7: k all sts.
8. Rnd 8: k3, kfb around. You now have 40 sts.
9. Rnd 9: k all sts.
10. Rnd 10: k4, kfb around. You now have 48 sts.
11. Rnd 11: k all sts.
12. Rnd 12: k5, kfb around. You now have 56 sts.

Start the face color placement. Place markers after stitch 20 and stitch 36. Stitches 21 through 36 form the cream blaze. The side stitches are brown. Carry yarn loosely across the inside, or use small separate balls of yarn.

1. Rnds 13-16: with BC k20, with MC k16, with BC k20.
2. Rnd 17: with BC k19, with MC k18, with BC k19.
3. Rnd 18: repeat Rnd 17.
4. Rnd 19: with BC k18, with MC k20, with BC k18.
5. Rnd 20: repeat Rnd 19.
6. Rnd 21: with BC k17, with MC k22, with BC k17.
7. Rnd 22: repeat Rnd 21.
8. Rnd 23: with BC k16, with MC k24, with BC k16.
9. Rnd 24: repeat Rnd 23.
10. Rnd 25: with BC k15, with MC k26, with BC k15.
11. Rnd 26: repeat Rnd 25.

The cream area widens down the face, matching the picture where the white section fills the muzzle front and divides the brown head patches. Continue shaping the cheeks while keeping the cream panel centered.

1. Rnd 27: k5, k2tog around, keeping colors aligned as established. 48 sts remain.
2. Rnd 28: k all sts.
3. Rnd 29: with BC k12, with MC k24, with BC k12.
4. Rnd 30: repeat Rnd 29.
5. Rnd 31: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts remain.
6. Rnd 32: k all sts.
7. Rnd 33: with BC k9, with MC k22, with BC k9.
8. Rnd 34: repeat Rnd 33.
9. Rnd 35: k3, k2tog around. 32 sts remain.
10. Rnd 36: k all sts.

Pause to install or embroider the eyes. Place the eyes between Rnds 22 and 23, about 13 stitches apart. The right eye should sit on the cream edge near the brown patch, and the left eye should sit on the brown patch near the cream stripe. This uneven placement gives the soft puppy expression shown in the image.

1. Rnd 37: k2, k2tog around. 24 sts remain.
2. Stuff the head firmly, especially the cheeks and forehead.
3. Rnd 38: k1, k2tog around. 16 sts remain.
4. Rnd 39: k2tog around. 8 sts remain.
5. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure inside.

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Muzzle

The muzzle is a separate cream oval, wide at the cheeks and slightly pointed at the lower chin. It is sewn onto the lower front of the head, beginning just below the eyes and ending under the face.

1. With MC, CO 8 sts and work in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
7. Rnd 6: k2, kfb around. 32 sts.
8. Rnds 7-13: k all sts for 7 rounds.
9. Rnd 14: k6, k2tog around. 28 sts.
10. Rnd 15: k all sts.
11. Rnd 16: k5, k2tog around. 24 sts.
12. Rnd 17: k all sts.
13. Rnd 18: k4, k2tog around. 20 sts.
14. Stuff lightly. The muzzle should be soft and rounded, not round like a ball.
15. Rnd 19: k3, k2tog around. 16 sts.
16. BO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Flatten the cast-off edge slightly into an oval. Pin the muzzle over the lower cream face, with the top edge just below the eyes and the lower edge centered under the chin. Sew around with small stitches, adding extra stuffing before closing the final inch.

Nose

The nose is a black oval attached to the front upper part of the muzzle. It should be wider than it is tall, with a rounded plush shape.

1. With black yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k4, kfb. 8 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
6. Rows 5-7: work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
7. Row 8: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
8. Row 9: p all sts.
9. Row 10: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
10. BO, leaving a sewing tail.

Place the nose at the center front of the muzzle, about one-third down from the top muzzle edge. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing under it as you sew. Embroider one vertical black line from the bottom of the nose down 4 rounds, then add two short curved mouth stitches.

Floppy Ears

The ears are long, brown, soft, and oval with rounded tips. They hang down from the upper sides of the head and curve slightly toward the face. Make two identical ears.

1. With BC, CO 10 sts. Work flat.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: kfb, k10, kfb. 14 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: kfb, k12, kfb. 16 sts.
8. Rows 7-30: work in stockinette, keeping first and last st knit on every row for a soft edge.
9. Row 31: ssk, k12, k2tog. 14 sts.
10. Row 32: p all sts.
11. Row 33: ssk, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
12. Row 34: p all sts.
13. Row 35: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
14. Row 36: p all sts.
15. Row 37: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
16. BO loosely.

Make a second matching piece for each ear if you want thicker ears. Place two pieces wrong sides together and seam around the edge, leaving the top open. For a lighter ear like the image, use one layer only and steam lightly so the ear curls naturally.

Sew each ear to the head between Rnds 12 and 17, about 10 stitches away from the cream center stripe. Angle the top edge diagonally so the ear falls forward. The lower ear tip should reach the upper shoulder area.

Body

The body is a cream stuffed torso with a gentle pear shape. The dress and cardigan will cover most of it, but the structure underneath keeps the doll balanced.

1. With MC, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k2, kfb around. 32 sts.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
7. Rnd 6: k3, kfb around. 40 sts.
8. Rnds 7-18: k all sts.
9. Rnd 19: k8, k2tog around. 36 sts.
10. Rnds 20-25: k all sts.
11. Rnd 26: k7, k2tog around. 32 sts.
12. Rnds 27-30: k all sts.
13. Rnd 31: k6, k2tog around. 28 sts.
14. Rnd 32: k all sts.
15. Stuff the body firmly at the bottom and more softly near the neck.
16. Rnd 33: k5, k2tog around. 24 sts.
17. Rnd 34: k all sts.
18. BO, leaving a long tail for attaching the head.

Neck Support

The head is large, so a small knitted neck support helps keep it upright. This piece is hidden under the cardigan collar.

1. With MC, CO 16 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-8: k all sts.
3. Stuff lightly but firmly.
4. BO and sew the tube to the top center of the body.
5. Sew the head onto the neck support, checking that the muzzle faces forward and slightly downward.

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Legs

The legs are long cream tubes visible below the dress. They should be straight, narrow, and evenly stuffed. Make two.

1. With MC, CO 16 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: k1, p1 around for a subtle ribbed ankle texture.
3. Rnds 5-30: k all sts.
4. Rnd 31: k6, k2tog twice. 14 sts.
5. Rnd 32: k all sts.
6. BO, leaving a long tail.

Stuff each leg evenly. Sew the top of each leg to the lower body, placing the legs about 6 stitches apart at the front. The legs should hang straight down under the dress, matching the doll-like seated posture in the image.

Arms and Paws

The arms have cream paws and olive cardigan sleeves. They are short and rounded, ending just below the cardigan hem area. Make two.

1. With MC, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-5: k all sts.
3. Rnd 6: k2, kfb around. 16 sts.
4. Rnds 7-10: k all sts.
5. Change to OC for the sleeve.
6. Rnd 11: p all sts to create a cuff ridge.
7. Rnds 12-24: k all sts.
8. Rnd 25: k6, k2tog twice. 14 sts.
9. Rnd 26: k all sts.
10. BO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Stuff paws firmly and sleeves lightly. Flatten the upper sleeve edge and sew each arm to the side of the body just below the neck, angled slightly downward. The cream paws should show below the cardigan sleeves.

Striped Dress

The dress is worked as a separate skirt-and-bodice layer. It appears under the cardigan, with olive, tan, rust, and cream horizontal stripes. The skirt flares gently and sits at mid-thigh length.

Dress Skirt

1. With OC, CO 56 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: p all sts for a lower hem ridge.
3. Rnd 2: k all sts with OC.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts with TC.
5. Rnd 4: k all sts with TC.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts with RC.
7. Rnd 6: k all sts with OC.
8. Rnd 7: k all sts with OC.
9. Rnd 8: k all sts with MC.
10. Rnd 9: k all sts with TC.
11. Rnd 10: k all sts with TC.
12. Rnd 11: k all sts with RC.
13. Rnd 12: k all sts with OC.
14. Rnd 13: k5, k2tog around. 48 sts.
15. Rnd 14: k all sts with OC.
16. Rnd 15: k all sts with TC.
17. Rnd 16: k all sts with TC.
18. Rnd 17: k all sts with RC.
19. Rnd 18: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
20. Rnd 19: k all sts with OC.
21. Rnd 20: k all sts with MC.
22. Rnd 21: k all sts with TC.
23. Rnd 22: k all sts with RC.
24. BO loosely.

Slide the skirt over the body from the legs upward. Position the hem just above the knees. Tack the upper edge to the body at four points only, so the skirt keeps a soft fabric drape.

Dress Bodice Panel

The bodice is the striped center front panel visible beneath the open cardigan. It is worked flat and sewn to the upper front of the body.

1. With OC, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: work stockinette.
3. Rows 3-4: change to TC and work stockinette.
4. Row 5: change to RC and k all sts.
5. Rows 6-7: change to OC and work stockinette.
6. Rows 8-9: change to MC and work stockinette.
7. Rows 10-11: change to TC and work stockinette.
8. Row 12: change to RC and k all sts.
9. Rows 13-16: change to OC and work stockinette.
10. Row 17: ssk, k14, k2tog. 16 sts.
11. Row 18: p all sts.
12. Row 19: ssk, k12, k2tog. 14 sts.
13. Row 20: p all sts.
14. BO.

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Sew the bodice panel to the front body above the skirt. The cardigan fronts will cover the side edges, so keep this piece centered and smooth.

Olive Textured Cardigan

The cardigan is olive green with a cozy textured surface, small front buttons, sleeves, and ribbed edges. It is worked in flat pieces and sewn around the dressed body. The visible texture imitates small cables and moss stitch.

Texture Pattern

• Row 1: k2, p2 across.
• Row 2: p2, k2 across.
• Row 3: p2, k2 across.
• Row 4: k2, p2 across.
• Repeat these 4 rows for a broken basket texture.

Cardigan Back

1. With OC, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: work k1, p1 rib.
3. Rows 5-22: work Texture Pattern.
4. Row 23: BO 3 sts, work to end. 31 sts.
5. Row 24: BO 3 sts, work to end. 28 sts.
6. Rows 25-34: continue Texture Pattern.
7. Row 35: work 9 sts, BO 10 center sts, work 9 sts.
8. Row 36: work first shoulder only, then second shoulder separately.
9. Rows 37-38: work each shoulder in Texture Pattern.
10. BO each shoulder.

Left Front

1. With OC, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: work k1, p1 rib.
3. Rows 5-22: work Texture Pattern, keeping the inner front edge in garter stitch for 3 sts.
4. Row 23: BO 3 sts at armhole edge, work to end. 17 sts.
5. Rows 24-28: continue Texture Pattern.
6. Row 29: at neck edge, BO 4 sts, work to end. 13 sts.
7. Row 31: at neck edge, BO 2 sts. 11 sts.
8. Row 33: at neck edge, BO 2 sts. 9 sts.
9. Rows 34-38: work even.
10. BO shoulder sts.

Right Front

1. Work as for Left Front, reversing shaping.
2. On the garter front band, make five buttonholes.
3. Buttonhole rows: work 2 sts, yarn over, k2tog, work to end.
4. Place buttonholes on Rows 8, 14, 20, 26, and 32.
5. Finish shoulder to match the left front.

Cardigan Sleeves

The arm pieces already include olive sleeves, but these flat sleeve overlays add the textured cardigan look seen in the picture. Make two.

1. With OC, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: work k1, p1 rib.
3. Rows 5-10: work Texture Pattern.
4. Row 11: k1, m1, work to last st, m1, k1. 22 sts.
5. Rows 12-16: work Texture Pattern.
6. Row 17: k1, m1, work to last st, m1, k1. 24 sts.
7. Rows 18-24: work Texture Pattern.
8. BO loosely.

Seam cardigan shoulders first. Sew side seams, leaving room for the arms. Wrap each sleeve overlay around the olive portion of each arm and seam underneath. Then sew the arms into the armholes. Sew five tan buttons down the opposite front band.

Cardigan Collar

1. With OC, pick up and knit 38 sts around the neckline.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Rows 2-5: work k1, p1 rib.
4. BO loosely in rib.

Fold the collar slightly outward so it frames the neck. Tack lightly at the back and front corners.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is a small striped pouch worn across the body. It hangs at the front right side, with a cream strap crossing from the shoulder to the hip. The tiny bee charm is attached near the lower outside corner.

Bag Front and Back

1. With OC, CO 20 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Rows 3-4: change to TC and work stockinette.
5. Row 5: change to RC and k all sts.
6. Rows 6-7: change to OC and work stockinette.
7. Rows 8-9: change to MC and work stockinette.
8. Rows 10-11: change to TC and work stockinette.
9. Row 12: change to RC and k all sts.
10. Rows 13-16: change to OC and work stockinette.
11. BO.

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Make a second piece the same way. Place the pieces wrong sides together and seam both sides and bottom. Leave the top open. Work one round of single-looking knitted edging by picking up stitches around the top: pick up 36 sts, purl 1 round, then BO.

Bag Strap

1. With MC or pale cream-gray yarn, CO 4 sts on US 2 needles.
2. Work i-cord for 16 inches: k4, slide sts to the other end, bring yarn around back, and k4 again.
3. Continue until the strap crosses comfortably from the dog’s left shoulder to right hip.
4. BO and sew both ends firmly to the bag sides.

Bee Charm

1. With yellow yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-3: k all sts.
3. Change to black. Rnd 4: k all sts.
4. Change to yellow. Rnd 5: k all sts.
5. Change to black. Rnd 6: k all sts.
6. Cut yarn and close both ends, forming a tiny oval bee body.
7. With white yarn, CO 5 sts for each wing. Knit 2 rows and BO.
8. Sew wings to the top of the bee. Attach the bee to the bag corner.

Flower Clip on Head

The head decoration has soft green petals, brown loops, and a small tan button at the center. Place it near the upper right side of the head, above the brown patch and close to the ear.

Green Petals

1. With pale green yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k3, kfb. 7 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: ssk, k3, k2tog. 5 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
8. BO.
9. Make 6 petals.

Brown Loops

1. With BC, CO 4 sts.
2. Work i-cord for 2 inches.
3. BO and sew ends together to form a loop.
4. Make 3 loops.

Arrange the 6 green petals in a circle. Add the 3 brown loops behind them so they peek upward. Sew the tan button to the center through all layers. Stitch the flower securely to the head.

Oversized Garden Shoes

The shoes are olive slip-on slippers with tan soles, cream toe openings, small side buttons, and colorful floral embroidery. Make two shoes, reversing button placement.

Shoe Sole

1. With TC, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
6. Rows 5-18: work stockinette.
7. Row 19: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
8. Row 20: p all sts.
9. Row 21: ssk, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
10. BO.

Shoe Upper

1. With OC, pick up 34 sts around the sole, leaving the top toe front open for the cream foot to show.
2. Rows 1-3: work garter stitch flat, not joined.
3. Row 4: k8, BO 10 center toe sts, k16. This creates the open front.
4. Row 5: work both sides separately in garter stitch.
5. Rows 6-10: continue both side flaps.
6. BO all sts.

Fit each shoe over the bottom of a leg and sew invisibly to the foot area. The cream toe should show through the open upper. Add a tan edge around the sole with duplicate stitch or backstitch.

Shoe Strap and Button

1. With OC, CO 5 sts.
2. Work garter stitch for 16 rows.
3. BO.
4. Sew one end to the outer shoe side.
5. Bring strap across the cream foot and sew the other end down.
6. Add one tiny tan button to the outer side of each shoe.

Floral Embroidery on Shoes

• Use yellow yarn for small lazy-daisy flowers on the top strap.
• Use pale blue yarn for tiny X-shaped flowers.
• Use pink or peach yarn for French-knot flower centers.
• Use green yarn for short straight stems and leaves.
• Keep each embroidered detail small, about 2 to 4 stitches long.

Matching Fair Isle Hat

The small hat rests on the bench beside the dog. It is not worn in the image, but it matches the outfit with olive, tan, cream, and rust patterning. The lower band is rust and slightly raised.

1. With RC, CO 48 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-5: work k1, p1 rib.
3. Change to OC. Rnd 6: k all sts.
4. Rnd 7: with OC k2, with TC k2; repeat around.
5. Rnd 8: with TC k2, with OC k2; repeat around.
6. Rnd 9: with OC k1, with MC k1, with TC k1, with OC k1; repeat around.
7. Rnd 10: k all sts with OC.
8. Rnd 11: with TC k2, with RC k1, with TC k1; repeat around.
9. Rnd 12: k all sts with OC.
10. Rnd 13: k6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
11. Rnd 14: k all sts.
12. Rnd 15: k5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
13. Rnd 16: k all sts.
14. Rnd 17: k4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
15. Rnd 18: k3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
16. Rnd 19: k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
17. Rnd 20: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
18. Rnd 21: k2tog around. 6 sts.
19. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.

Lightly stuff the hat if you want it to stand on the bench like the picture. Otherwise, leave it hollow and shape the crown gently with your fingers.

Small Yarn Basket

The tiny basket sits near the dog’s feet and holds three small yarn balls. It is worked in rust-brown yarn with a rounded base and curved handle.

Basket Base and Sides

1. With RC, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: p all sts to create the base ridge.
7. Rnds 6-12: k all sts.
8. Rnd 13: p all sts for a rim ridge.
9. Rnd 14: k all sts.
10. BO loosely.

Basket Handle

1. With RC, CO 4 sts.
2. Work i-cord for 5 inches.
3. BO and sew one end to each side of the basket rim.

Yarn Balls

1. With any scrap color, CO 6 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st. 12 sts.
4. Rnds 3-5: k all sts.
5. Rnd 6: k2tog around. 6 sts.
6. Stuff lightly, pull closed, and wrap yarn around the ball several times.
7. Make three balls in pale green, cream, and blue-gray.

Tiny Bird Companion

The tiny bird sits beside the yarn basket. It has a round brown body, small darker head, gray-blue wings, orange beak, and tiny feet.

Bird Body

1. With tan-brown yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
5. Rnds 4-8: k all sts.
6. Rnd 9: k1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
7. Stuff lightly.
8. Rnd 10: k2tog around. 8 sts.
9. Cut yarn and close.

Bird Head

1. With darker brown yarn, CO 6 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st. 12 sts.
4. Rnds 3-5: k all sts.
5. Rnd 6: k2tog around. 6 sts.
6. Stuff lightly and close.
7. Sew head to body at a slight forward tilt.

Bird Details

• With orange yarn, embroider a small triangular beak using 3 straight stitches.
• With black yarn, make one tiny eye stitch on each side of the head.
• With gray-blue yarn, embroider one wing on each side of the body.
• With orange yarn, add two tiny straight stitches under the body for feet.

Body Assembly

1. Sew the neck support to the top of the body.
2. Attach the head to the neck, making sure the muzzle points forward.
3. Sew the legs to the lower front body, spaced evenly.
4. Slide the dress skirt over the legs and tack it to the body.
5. Sew the bodice panel to the center front.
6. Place the cardigan around the shoulders and sew side seams neatly.
7. Attach arms into cardigan armholes, with paws facing forward.
8. Sew floppy ears to the upper sides of the head.
9. Add the flower clip near the right ear.
10. Place shoes on the feet and sew them securely.
11. Place the bag strap across the body and tack it at the shoulder so it stays in position.

Facial Details

The face is the most important part of this dog. Keep the expression gentle and slightly curious. The eyes should be small and shiny, set far enough apart to leave room for the broad cream blaze and soft muzzle.

• Place the eyes before closing the head whenever possible.
• If embroidering eyes, make each eye 3 to 4 stitches wide with black yarn.
• Add one tiny white highlight stitch to each eye if desired.
• Sew the black nose firmly to the top center of the muzzle.
• Use black yarn to make a short vertical mouth line below the nose.
• Add two small curved mouth stitches, one to each side.
• Do not pull the mouth stitches too tightly, or the muzzle will pucker.

Cardigan Button Placement

The cardigan in the image has a cozy handmade look with visible round buttons down the front. Place the buttons slightly off center on the left cardigan band, opposite the buttonholes.

1. Lay the cardigan flat on the body and smooth both fronts.
2. Mark five button positions matching the buttonhole rows.
3. Sew the top button just below the collar.
4. Sew the remaining buttons evenly down the front.
5. Use tan or matching thread so the stitching is neat.
6. Secure each button through the knitted fabric and into the body only if the cardigan will not be removed.

Optional Cardigan Cable Columns

To create the raised vertical details seen on the cardigan, add duplicate-stitch cable lines after knitting. This is easier than working tiny cables on a toy garment.

• Use OC yarn doubled or a slightly darker olive yarn.
• Work two vertical lines down each front panel.
• Each line should be 12 to 16 stitches long.
• Use small V-shaped duplicate stitches over existing knit stitches.
• Keep the lines subtle so they blend with the textured cardigan.

Optional Dress Hem Edge

The dress hem has a soft rolled look in the picture. If your hem curls too much, add a neat stabilizing edge after the skirt is attached.

1. With TC, pick up 56 sts around the lower hem.
2. Rnd 1: p all sts.
3. Rnd 2: k all sts.
4. BO loosely.
5. Steam gently with your hand above the fabric, never pressing hard.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the full doll from the front, side, and back before weaving in final ends. The head should be large and rounded, the floppy ears should hang naturally, and the cardigan should sit open enough to show the striped dress panel.

• Shape the cheeks by gently pressing stuffing outward from inside the head.
• Pin ears first, then sew once the angle looks even.
• Make sure the bag rests at the lower front right side.
• Place the hat, basket, and bird as separate display accessories.
• Trim yarn tails only after every detail is secure.

Care Notes

Because this project includes buttons, embroidery, and small accessories, it is best used as a decorative collectible or gentle-play toy for older children. For a child-safe version, replace all buttons and safety eyes with embroidery.

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if using buttons or glued details.
• Pat dry with a towel and reshape by hand.
• Let the toy air dry completely before storing.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The cream blaze is centered on the face.
• The brown patches frame both sides of the head.
• The muzzle is oval, soft, and placed low on the face.
• The ears are long, floppy, and sewn at a forward angle.
• The cardigan has five front buttons and a ribbed collar.
• The striped dress shows beneath the open cardigan.
• The crossbody bag has a bee charm on the lower corner.
• The shoes have straps, buttons, and tiny floral embroidery.
• The matching hat, yarn basket, and bird are finished as display pieces.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished dog away from direct sunlight so the olive, tan, rust, and brown yarn colors stay soft and even. If dust gathers on the cardigan texture, use a clean soft brush and stroke gently with the direction of the stitches.

• Keep the toy in a dry place with good airflow.
• Avoid sealed plastic storage for long periods, especially in humid weather.
• Wrap the flower, bee charm, and buttons in tissue if packing the doll away.
• Refresh the shape by lightly fluffing the stuffing through the knitted fabric with your fingers.
• For heirloom storage, place the doll in a cotton bag with the hat, basket, and bird in a separate small pouch.