Crochet Tutorial: Floral Garden Platypus – Free Crochet Pattern.

This sweet Floral Garden Platypus is a seated amigurumi doll with a round white head, soft peach bill, peach tail and paws, a pale yellow flowered dress, blue sandals, a tiny floral shoulder bag, and a matching flower accent on the head. The set also includes a wide garden hat with a blue bow, a small gray watering can, and a tiny potted plant for a complete garden-themed display.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Platypus height while seated: about 9.5–10.5 inches from bottom to top of head.
• Head width: about 4 inches.
• Bill length: about 2.5 inches from face to tip.
• Dress width at hem: about 5.5 inches across when lightly flattened.
• Hat diameter: about 6 inches.
• Watering can: about 2 inches tall.
• Potted plant: about 2 inches tall including leaves.

Skill Level

This pattern is suitable for confident beginners who already know basic amigurumi construction. The main body uses simple single crochet shaping, while the flowers, sandals, bag, hat, and watering can add small decorative details. Work slowly, count every round, and use stitch markers to keep the rounded shapes even.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in white, peach, pale yellow, sky blue, soft gray, green, brown, and cream.
• Small amounts of blue, white, and yellow yarn for flowers.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the platypus body and main accessories.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for flowers, leaves, straps, facial details, and small trim.
• 10 mm black safety eyes.
• Black embroidery thread for eyelashes and mouth detail.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Scissors.
• Straight pins for positioning parts before sewing.
• Optional: small piece of plastic canvas for the shoe soles and hat brim if you want firmer shaping.

Abbreviations Used

• MR: magic ring.
• ch: chain.
• sl st: slip stitch.
• sc: single crochet.
• hdc: half double crochet.
• dc: double crochet.
• inc: increase, 2 sc in the same stitch.
• dec: invisible decrease over 2 stitches.
• BLO: back loop only.
• FLO: front loop only.
• st: stitch.
• R: round or row.
• FO: fasten off.

Gauge and Texture Notes

For the same firm, compact look shown in the image, crochet tightly enough that the stuffing does not show through the stitches. With worsted cotton and a 3.0 mm hook, 6 sc by 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch. If your stitches look loose, move down to a 2.75 mm hook.

The white head and body should have a smooth, rounded amigurumi texture. The pale yellow dress should sit slightly wider than the body and show clear rows of single crochet. The peach bill should be broad and flattened, not pointed. Stuff it lightly so it keeps a soft paddle shape.

Important Construction Notes

• Work most amigurumi pieces in continuous rounds unless the pattern says otherwise.
• Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
• Stuff the head and body firmly, but do not overstuff the bill, tail, shoes, or bag.
• Sew all pieces with matching yarn unless a decorative seam is desired.
• The doll is designed to sit, so the legs are attached forward at a low angle.
• The bill is sewn to the lower center of the face, between the eyes, with the top edge slightly curved upward.

Head

Use white yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. The head is large, round, and slightly taller than the body, matching the image. Stuff firmly as you go, especially before closing the final rounds.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. (36)
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. (42)
8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. (48)
9. R9: sc 7, inc; repeat 6 times. (54)
10. R10–R18: sc in each st around. (54)
11. R19: sc 7, dec; repeat 6 times. (48)
12. R20: sc 6, dec; repeat 6 times. (42)
13. R21: sc 5, dec; repeat 6 times. (36)
14. R22: sc 4, dec; repeat 6 times. (30)
15. R23: sc 3, dec; repeat 6 times. (24)
16. R24: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. (18)
17. R25: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. (12)

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Insert safety eyes between R14 and R15, about 11 stitches apart. The eyes should sit slightly above the bill placement, giving the platypus a gentle sideways-looking expression. Stuff firmly, then FO, leaving a long tail. Do not close completely until the bill position has been checked.

Platypus Bill

Use peach yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. The bill is wide, flattened, and rounded at the end. It should cover the lower front of the face and extend outward like a soft duck-bill shape. Work in rows first, then edge around the shape.

1. R1: ch 9, sc in second ch from hook, sc 7. (8)
2. R2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 6, inc. (10)
3. R3: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 8, inc. (12)
4. R4: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (12)
5. R5: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 10, inc. (14)
6. R6–R9: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (14)
7. R10: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec. (12)
8. R11: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec. (10)
9. R12: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec. (8)

Do not fasten off. Now crochet evenly around the entire bill: sc 12 along the first side, 3 sc in the rounded front corner, sc 8 across the front, 3 sc in the next rounded corner, sc 12 along the second side, and sc 8 across the base. Sl st to join.

Make a second identical bill panel. Place both panels together with wrong sides facing. Working through both layers, sc evenly around the bill, placing 3 sc in each front corner. Lightly stuff only the center area before closing the final edge. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Bill Surface Details

• With peach yarn, sew two shallow horizontal shaping lines across the bill, one near the middle and one close to the rounded tip.
• With white yarn, add two tiny straight stitches on the upper right side of the bill to copy the small highlight in the image.
• Do not over-embroider the bill; it should remain soft and simple.

Body

Use white yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. The body is smaller than the head and mostly hidden under the pale yellow dress. Shape it like a seated pear, narrower at the neck and wider at the bottom.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. (36)
7. R7–R13: sc in each st around. (36)
8. R14: sc 4, dec; repeat 6 times. (30)
9. R15: sc in each st around. (30)
10. R16: sc 3, dec; repeat 6 times. (24)
11. R17: sc in each st around. (24)
12. R18: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. (18)
13. R19: sc in each st around. (18)

Stuff firmly, keeping the bottom rounded and stable. FO, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing the head to the body. The head should sit directly on top, with only a short neck visible after the dress is added.

Arms

Make 2 arms. Each arm is white with a peach paw at the end. The arms hang down beside the body, with the peach paws visible just below the dress sleeve line.

1. Start with peach yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3–R5: sc in each st around. (12)
4. Change to white yarn. R6: BLO sc in each st around. (12)
5. R7–R15: sc in each st around. (12)
6. R16: sc 4, dec; repeat 2 times. (10)
7. R17: sc in each st around. (10)

Stuff the peach paw firmly and the white arm lightly. Flatten the top opening and sc through both layers for 5 stitches to close. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body between body R16 and R17, angled slightly forward.

Legs

Make 2 legs in white yarn. The legs are short and seated forward, with blue sandals attached at the feet. The upper legs are mostly hidden by the dress, while the lower legs extend out in front.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4–R7: sc in each st around. (18)
5. R8: sc 4, dec; repeat 3 times. (15)
6. R9–R14: sc in each st around. (15)
7. R15: sc 3, dec; repeat 3 times. (12)
8. R16–R17: sc in each st around. (12)

Stuff firmly at the foot end and lightly toward the top. Flatten the top opening and sc through both layers for 6 stitches. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body between R5 and R7, separated by about 5 stitches. Angle them outward slightly so the doll sits naturally.

Tail

Use peach yarn. The tail is a rounded paddle shape visible behind the body on the left side. It should be flat but lightly stuffed, with a soft oval silhouette.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5–R9: sc in each st around. (24)
6. R10: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. (18)
7. R11: sc in each st around. (18)
8. R12: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. (12)
9. R13: sc in each st around. (12)

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Stuff lightly, then flatten the open edge. Sc through both layers for 6 stitches. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew the tail to the back lower body at a diagonal angle, with the rounded end visible from the left side when the doll is seated.

Pale Yellow Dress

The dress has a fitted bodice and a flared skirt. It is worked separately, then slipped over the body before the head is fully secured if needed. Use pale yellow yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.

Dress Bodice

1. R1: ch 31, sc in second ch from hook and across. (30)
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (30)
3. R3: ch 1, turn, sc 5, ch 5, skip 5, sc 10, ch 5, skip 5, sc 5. (30 including chains)
4. R4: ch 1, turn, sc 5, sc 5 into ch space, sc 10, sc 5 into ch space, sc 5. (30)
5. R5–R8: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (30)

Bring the back edges together and sl st through both short edges to form a tube. Turn the seam to the back. The armholes should sit high under the arms, with the bodice covering the upper body like the image.

Dress Skirt

Attach pale yellow yarn to the bottom edge of the bodice. Work around the lower edge.

1. R1: sc 30 evenly around the lower bodice edge. (30)
2. R2: sc 2, inc; repeat 10 times. (40)
3. R3: sc in each st around. (40)
4. R4: sc 3, inc; repeat 10 times. (50)
5. R5–R7: sc in each st around. (50)
6. R8: sc 4, inc; repeat 10 times. (60)
7. R9–R11: sc in each st around. (60)
8. R12: BLO sc in each st around. (60)
9. R13: sc in each st around. (60)
10. R14: sl st loosely around the hem. (60)

The skirt should flare gently and rest over the seated legs. The front center should show enough space for flower appliqués and the small shoulder bag. Do not make the skirt too long; the white legs and blue sandals must remain clearly visible.

Dress Hem Texture

Attach pale yellow yarn to any unworked front loop from R12 of the skirt. Work one decorative round: ch 1, sc in same loop, ch 1, skip next front loop, sc in next front loop; repeat around. Sl st to join and FO. This creates a subtle raised lower edge like the thick crocheted hem in the photo.

Dress Sleeves

The image shows short pale yellow sleeve edges around the white arms. Attach pale yellow yarn to one armhole of the bodice.

1. R1: Work 16 sc evenly around the armhole. (16)
2. R2: sc in each st around. (16)
3. R3: sl st loosely in each st around. (16)

FO and weave in the end. Repeat for the second armhole. The sleeves should be short and soft, not tight around the arms.

Blue Sandals

Make 2 sandals with sky blue yarn. The sandals sit on the front of the feet and include a raised sole and toe strap with peach toes showing through.

Sandal Sole

1. R1: ch 8, sc in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Working on other side of chain, sc 5, 2 sc in last ch. (16)
2. R2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. (22)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (28)
4. R4: BLO sc in each st around. (28)
5. R5: sc in each st around. (28)

FO, leaving a tail for sewing. Place the sole under the white foot so it extends slightly beyond the foot edge. Sew around the sole with small, even stitches.

Toe Strap

Attach sky blue yarn to the left side of the sandal near the front. Ch 9, pull across the top of the foot, and sl st to the opposite side. Turn and work 8 sc back across the chain. FO and sew both ends securely.

Peach Toe Details

• Using peach yarn, embroider three small oval toe stitches on the front opening of each sandal.
• Place the stitches vertically, side by side, so they look like soft toes peeking from the blue strap.
• Keep them small and rounded to match the gentle style of the image.

Mini Shoulder Bag

The small pale yellow bag hangs at the front of the dress with a thin blue strap crossing from one shoulder to the opposite hip. The front is decorated with tiny flowers.

Bag Body

Use pale yellow yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: ch 9, sc in second ch from hook, sc 7. (8)
2. R2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 6, inc. (10)
3. R3–R6: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10)
4. R7: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec. (8)

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Do not FO. Sc evenly around the outside edge, placing 2 sc in each corner. Sl st to join and FO. Make a second panel the same way. Place panels together and sc around three sides, leaving the top open. FO and weave in ends.

Bag Flap

1. Attach pale yellow yarn to the back top edge of the bag.
2. R1: sc 8 across the top back edge. (8)
3. R2: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8)
4. R3: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec. (6)
5. R4: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6)

Fold the flap over the front and tack it down lightly with one small stitch at each lower corner. This keeps the bag looking soft but structured.

Blue Bag Strap

Using sky blue yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, ch 62. Starting in the second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. FO, leaving long tails. Sew one end to the upper left side of the bag and the other end to the upper right side. Place the strap diagonally over the doll’s right shoulder and secure with a few hidden stitches at the shoulder and hip.

Small Flowers for Dress and Bag

Make several tiny flowers in blue, white, and pale yellow. The image shows flowers on the skirt, bag, and head. Use a 2.5 mm hook for crisp petals.

Five-Petal Flower

1. R1: 5 sc in MR, sl st to first sc. (5)
2. R2: ch 2, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st; repeat in each of the 5 sts.
3. Pull the center ring tight. FO, leaving a tail for sewing.

Small Daisy Flower

1. With yellow or blue center yarn, 6 sc in MR, sl st to join. (6)
2. Change to white or blue petal yarn.
3. In each st: ch 2, hdc, ch 2, sl st in same st. Repeat 6 times.

Leaf Accent

Use green yarn. Ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1. FO, leaving a sewing tail. Make 6–8 leaves for the flowers and bag.

Placement

• Sew 3 tiny flowers across the front of the bag: blue, white, and blue.
• Sew 5–7 flowers scattered over the dress skirt, mostly on the front and right side.
• Add small green leaves beside a few flowers, especially near the bag and lower skirt.
• Sew one blue flower and one pale yellow flower near the top-left side of the head.

Head Flower Cluster

The head has a soft floral cluster near the upper left side, slightly forward from the crown. Use one blue flower, one pale yellow flower, and two green leaves.

• Make one blue five-petal flower with a small peach center.
• Make one pale yellow five-petal flower with a white center.
• Make two green leaves using the leaf pattern.
• Sew the leaves first, angled outward.
• Sew the blue flower slightly lower and the yellow flower slightly higher.

Keep the cluster flat against the head so it looks crocheted into the doll rather than bulky. The placement should sit above the left eye area, like a garden hair accessory.

Garden Hat

The hat is a separate accessory placed beside the platypus in the image. It is pale yellow with a wide brim and a blue ribbon bow. Use a 3.0 mm hook for the hat.

Hat Crown

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. (36)
7. R7: BLO sc in each st around. (36)
8. R8–R13: sc in each st around. (36)

Hat Brim

1. R14: FLO sc 2, inc; repeat 12 times. (48)
2. R15: sc 3, inc; repeat 12 times. (60)
3. R16: sc 4, inc; repeat 12 times. (72)
4. R17: sc 5, inc; repeat 12 times. (84)
5. R18: sc in each st around. (84)
6. R19: sl st loosely around the brim. (84)

FO and weave in the end. Shape the brim flat with your fingers. If desired, insert a thin ring of plastic canvas under the brim before finishing R19 for a firmer garden-hat look.

Blue Hat Ribbon and Bow

For the ribbon band, use sky blue yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Ch 58, sl st in second ch from hook and across. Wrap around the base of the hat crown and sew the ends together at the front-left side.

For each bow loop, ch 10, sc in second ch from hook and across for 9 sc. Make 3 rows total. FO. Make 2 loops. For the bow tails, ch 13, sc in second ch from hook and across for 12 sc. Make 2 tails. Gather the two loops at the center, wrap blue yarn around 6 times, then sew the two tails behind the center wrap. Attach the bow to the ribbon band.

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Watering Can

The small gray watering can sits beside the platypus. It has a rounded body, open-looking top, small handle, and curved spout. Use soft gray yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Can Body

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: BLO sc in each st around. (18)
5. R5–R9: sc in each st around. (18)
6. R10: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. (12)
7. R11: BLO sc in each st around. (12)
8. R12: sc in each st around. (12)

Stuff the body very lightly so it keeps a small bucket shape. Do not close the top completely. Sl st around the top edge and FO. The top should look slightly open, like a tiny garden watering can.

Watering Can Spout

1. R1: ch 8.
2. R2: sc in second ch from hook and across. (7)
3. R3: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (7)

Fold the piece lengthwise and sew the long edges together to form a narrow tube. Shape it into a gentle upward curve. Sew the wider base to one side of the can body. Add a tiny round tip by working 5 sc in MR, pulling tight, and sewing it to the end of the spout.

Watering Can Handle

Ch 16 with gray yarn. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. FO with long tails. Sew one end near the top back of the can and the other end near the lower back to form a curved handle.

Tiny Potted Plant

The plant pot is peach, filled with brown soil, and topped with green leaves. It is small and simple, matching the garden theme of the photo.

Plant Pot

1. Use peach yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: BLO sc in each st around. (12)
4. R4: sc 3, inc; repeat 3 times. (15)
5. R5–R6: sc in each st around. (15)
6. R7: FLO sl st in each st around to create the rim. (15)

FO and weave in the end. Lightly stuff the pot if needed.

Soil Insert

1. Use brown yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 3, inc; repeat 3 times. (15)

FO, leaving a long tail. Place the brown circle inside the pot rim and sew it in place.

Plant Leaves

Make 6 leaves with green yarn. For each leaf, ch 6, sl st in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 2, sc 1. FO, leaving a tail. Sew all leaves into the brown soil center, arranging them in a small rosette.

Facial Details

The face is simple and gentle, with shiny black eyes, short eyelashes, and the broad peach bill. Use black embroidery thread for the eyelashes. Do not add heavy eyebrows or a large mouth, because the image keeps the expression soft and minimal.

• Place the eyes between head R14 and R15, about 11 stitches apart.
• Sew the bill centered below the eyes, with the top edge touching around R15 and the lower edge reaching R20.
• Use black thread to stitch one small eyelash beside each eye.
• Each eyelash should be about 2 stitches long and angled slightly outward.
• Add a tiny black smile curve only if desired, mostly hidden near the top edge of the bill.

Assembly Order

1. Finish the head, body, arms, legs, tail, bill, dress, sandals, flowers, bag, hat, watering can, and plant separately.
2. Put the dress on the body before sewing the head completely in place if your dress neckline is snug.
3. Sew the head to the body using the long tail from the body. Go around the neck twice for strength.
4. Sew the bill to the lower face. Pin first to keep it centered and level.
5. Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body, making sure the sleeves sit neatly over the shoulders.
6. Sew the legs forward on the lower body so the doll sits naturally.
7. Sew the tail to the back lower body at a soft diagonal angle.
8. Attach the sandals to the feet and embroider the peach toe details.
9. Sew the flowers to the dress, bag, and head.
10. Attach the bag strap across the chest, from shoulder to opposite hip.
11. Place the hat, watering can, and potted plant beside the doll as removable display pieces.

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Detailed Placement Guide

The head should be the largest visual part of the doll. When viewed from the front, the bill should project outward from the face and slightly cover the lower center. The white body should be mostly hidden by the yellow dress, with white arms and legs clearly visible.

The dress should sit high under the head, with the skirt flaring over the hips. The front of the skirt should display the floral appliqués. Keep the flowers spaced irregularly, as in a natural garden, rather than forming a perfect line.

The bag should rest at the front-left hip area, with the blue strap crossing diagonally upward. The strap must be thin, so use slip stitches rather than a thick chain. This keeps the shoulder bag delicate and close to the scale of the doll.

The hat is not worn in the image; it sits beside the platypus. For the same look, place it flat near the doll with the blue bow toward the viewer. The watering can and potted plant should be placed on the opposite side for balance.

Flower Arrangement on the Dress

• Place one white flower near the lower center of the skirt.
• Place one blue flower slightly above and to the right.
• Place one pale yellow or white flower near the right lower edge.
• Place two blue flowers on the right side of the skirt.
• Place one small white flower near the left side, close to the bag.
• Add green leaves only where needed; too many leaves will make the dress look crowded.

How to Shape the Bill Correctly

The bill is the most important platypus feature. After sewing, use your fingers to press the top and bottom surfaces gently so it becomes wide and flat. The bill should not point downward. It should extend straight out from the face, with the rounded tip slightly lifted.

When sewing the bill, start at the center top edge, then secure both top corners. Continue around the sides and bottom edge. Before closing the last inch, add or remove stuffing until the bill looks softly padded but not round like a muzzle.

How to Make the Doll Sit Like the Image

The body needs a stable base. Press the bottom of the stuffed body gently against a flat table before attaching the legs. This creates a slight seated foundation. Sew the legs to the front lower body with the feet pointing outward and upward.

The tail also supports the seated pose. Attach it low on the back, slightly to one side, so it touches the table surface. This creates balance and helps the doll lean naturally without falling backward.

Optional Stitch Definition Tips

• Use cotton yarn for crisp stitch texture like the photo.
• Keep the hook size small enough to create tight stitches.
• Stuff in small pieces instead of one large clump.
• Roll the stuffed head between your palms to smooth the shape before closing.
• Block the hat brim lightly with steam, but do not press the amigurumi body with high heat.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all parts are attached, check the face from the front and side. The bill should sit centered between the eyes, and the eyes should remain visible above it. If the head tilts forward too much, add a few extra securing stitches at the back of the neck.

Use black embroidery thread to add one short eyelash at the outer side of each eye. Keep the stitches neat and small. Add the head flowers last, after confirming which side of the face will be the display side.

Check the shoulder bag strap and make sure it follows the body curve. Tack it down at the shoulder, chest, and bag edge so it does not lift away. Fluff the skirt slightly with your fingers so the flower appliqués face forward.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if safety eyes, bows, or small accessories are attached.
• Let the doll air dry completely before storing.
• Keep away from direct sunlight for long periods to reduce fading.
• This design includes small parts, so it is best used as a display piece unless modified for child safety.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, firm, and larger than the body.
• The peach bill is wide, flat, and centered.
• The eyes are even and placed above the bill.
• The dress flares gently over the seated body.
• The blue sandals show peach toe stitches.
• The bag hangs across the front with a thin blue strap.
• The head flower cluster is placed on the upper left side.
• The hat has a wide brim and blue bow.
• The watering can has a curved spout and handle.
• The tiny plant has a peach pot, brown soil, and green leaves.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, avoid soaking the doll in water. If dust collects on the dress flowers, use a soft dry brush and gently clean around each petal. For small stains, dab only the stained area with cool water and mild soap.

Store the platypus upright or seated in a clean, dry place. Do not place heavy objects on top of the hat, bill, or flower appliqués. If the brim bends, reshape it by hand and let it rest flat overnight.

For long-term display, keep the doll away from humidity and strong sunlight. A shelf, glass cabinet, or covered storage box works well. Keep the watering can and potted plant beside the doll so the full floral garden scene remains complete.