Knitting Tutorial: Cute Garden Donkey Doll – Free Knitting Pattern

Knitting Tutorial: Cute Garden Donkey Doll – Free Knitting Pattern

This cheerful knitted garden donkey doll sits sweetly in rust-brown overalls, a bright blue and golden-yellow striped sweater, little sandals, and a flowered crossbody satchel. The set also includes the matching pom-pom garden hat, a tiny potted flower, and a miniature watering can, giving the finished project the same cozy handmade garden-table look as the photo.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

  • Donkey doll: about 13 inches tall seated, about 16 inches from head top to feet when stretched gently.
  • Head: about 5 inches wide and 4 1/2 inches tall after stuffing.
  • Body with overalls: about 4 1/2 inches tall.
  • Legs: about 4 inches long from hip seam to sandal sole.
  • Hat: about 3 1/2 inches wide, sized to sit beside the doll as shown.
  • Flower pot: about 2 inches tall.
  • Watering can: about 2 1/4 inches wide from spout to handle.

Materials

  • Worsted weight yarn in warm donkey brown for head, body, hands, legs, ears, and tail.
  • Worsted weight yarn in cream for muzzle and sandal trim.
  • Worsted weight yarn in rust brown for overalls.
  • Worsted weight yarn in bright blue and golden yellow for striped sweater and hat.
  • Small amounts of tan, pink, light blue, dark blue, green, yellow, and flower pink yarn.
  • US size 3 double-pointed needles, or size needed for a firm toy fabric.
  • US size 3 straight needles for flat pieces.
  • Two 16 mm blue safety eyes, or black eyes sewn behind knitted blue eye circles.
  • Polyester fiberfill stuffing.
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Two tiny tan buttons for overalls.
  • Two tiny brown buttons for sandals, optional.
  • Stitch markers and removable locking markers.

Use a firm gauge so the stuffing does not show through. The photographed donkey has a smooth, dense stockinette surface with visible worsted-weight stitches, so avoid loose knitting. If your fabric stretches open when stuffed, go down one needle size.

Gauge

  • Stockinette in the round: 6 stitches and 8 rounds = 1 inch.
  • Flat stockinette: 6 stitches and 8 rows = 1 inch.
  • Garter stitch trim: 6 stitches and 10 rows = 1 inch.

Abbreviations

  • CO: cast on.
  • BO: bind off.
  • K: knit.
  • P: purl.
  • St/sts: stitch/stitches.
  • Rnd/rnds: round/rounds.
  • Kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch.
  • K2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
  • SSK: slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together.
  • Rep: repeat.
  • PM: place marker.
  • SM: slip marker.
  • St st: stockinette stitch.

Construction Notes

The donkey is knitted in firm toy pieces and sewn together. The head is large and round, the body is smaller, and the limbs are rounded tubes. This creates the cute seated proportion visible in the picture, with the head slightly wider than the clothed body.

The sweater is knitted as color stripes directly on the upper body and arms. The overalls are worked as separate rust-brown pieces and sewn over the lower body, so the bib, straps, and little button details remain visible from the front.

Color Guide

  • Main donkey brown: head, cheeks, outer ears, arms, legs, hands, tail base.
  • Cream: muzzle, lower face, sandal edges.
  • Pink: inner ears and small flower petals.
  • Rust brown: overalls and sandal soles.
  • Blue and yellow: striped sweater, hat, pom-pom, and small accents.
  • Green: satchel strap, leaves, sandal leaf decorations, flower stem.

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Main Head

Work the head in the round with donkey brown. The shape is wide at the cheeks, rounded at the top, and slightly flattened at the lower front where the cream muzzle will be sewn on.

  1. CO 8 sts. Divide across double-pointed needles and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: K all sts. 8 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Kfb in each st around. 16 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: K all sts.
  5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb; rep around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: K all sts.
  7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb; rep around. 32 sts.
  8. Rnd 7: K all sts.
  9. Rnd 8: K3, kfb; rep around. 40 sts.
  10. Rnd 9: K all sts.
  11. Rnd 10: K4, kfb; rep around. 48 sts.
  12. Rnd 11: K all sts.
  13. Rnd 12: K5, kfb; rep around. 56 sts.
  14. Rnds 13-24: K all sts for 12 rnds.
  15. Rnd 25: K12, kfb, K2, kfb, K24, kfb, K2, kfb, K12. 60 sts.
  16. Rnds 26-30: K all sts.
  17. Rnd 31: K8, k2tog; rep around. 54 sts.
  18. Rnd 32: K all sts.
  19. Rnd 33: K7, k2tog; rep around. 48 sts.
  20. Rnd 34: K all sts.
  21. Rnd 35: K6, k2tog; rep around. 42 sts.
  22. Rnd 36: K all sts.
  23. Rnd 37: K5, k2tog; rep around. 36 sts.
  24. Rnd 38: K4, k2tog; rep around. 30 sts.

Stuff the head firmly now. Shape the cheeks by pressing stuffing outward at both lower sides. Keep the front smooth so the cream muzzle will sit centered and slightly raised.

  1. Rnd 39: K3, k2tog; rep around. 24 sts.
  2. Rnd 40: K2, k2tog; rep around. 18 sts.
  3. Rnd 41: K1, k2tog; rep around. 12 sts.
  4. Rnd 42: K2tog around. 6 sts.

Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull closed, and weave in securely. The closing point will be hidden at the lower back of the head when attached to the body.

Cream Muzzle

The muzzle is oval, padded, and sewn across the lower front of the face. It covers nearly half the face height and gives the donkey the soft cream snout shown in the photo.

  1. With cream yarn, CO 8 sts and work flat.
  2. Row 1: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K6, kfb. 10 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
  6. Row 5: P all sts.
  7. Row 6: Kfb, K10, kfb. 14 sts.
  8. Rows 7-15: Work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
  9. Row 16: SSK, K10, k2tog. 12 sts.
  10. Row 17: P all sts.
  11. Row 18: SSK, K8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  12. Row 19: P all sts.
  13. Row 20: SSK, K6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  14. BO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Lightly stuff the muzzle before closing the final edge to the face. Sew it between rounds 23 and 37 of the head, centered. The upper edge should sit just below the eyes, and the lower edge should curve under the chin.

Nostrils and Smile

  • With medium brown yarn, embroider two short nostrils on the cream muzzle, each about 3 stitches long.
  • Place nostrils on row 10 of the muzzle, about 5 stitches apart.
  • Use dark brown yarn to stitch a tiny curved smile below the nostrils.
  • Make the smile no wider than 5 stitches so the face stays gentle and childlike.

Blue Eye Circles

The photo shows large blue eyes with pale rims and dark glossy centers. To copy the look with yarn, make a blue knitted eye circle behind each safety eye.

  1. With light blue yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb in each st. 12 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: K1, kfb; rep across. 18 sts.
  6. Row 5: P all sts.
  7. BO loosely.

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Sew one circle on each side of the face above the muzzle, about 7 stitches apart from inner edge to inner edge. Insert or sew the dark eye center in the middle of each blue circle before the head is fully finished.

Outer Side Ears

The donkey has rounded side ears extending outward from the upper sides of the head. Each ear has a brown edge and a soft pink center.

Make 2 Outer Ear Backs

  1. With donkey brown, CO 8 sts and work flat.
  2. Row 1: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K6, kfb. 10 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
  6. Rows 5-10: Work in St st.
  7. Row 11: P all sts.
  8. Row 12: SSK, K8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  9. Row 13: P all sts.
  10. Row 14: SSK, K6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  11. Row 15: P all sts.
  12. Row 16: SSK, K4, k2tog. 6 sts.
  13. Row 17: P all sts.
  14. Row 18: SSK, K2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  15. BO.

Make 2 Pink Inner Side Ears

  1. With pink yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K4, kfb. 8 sts.
  4. Rows 3-8: Work in St st.
  5. Row 9: P all sts.
  6. Row 10: SSK, K4, k2tog. 6 sts.
  7. Row 11: P all sts.
  8. Row 12: SSK, K2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  9. BO.

Sew one pink inner ear to each brown ear, leaving a narrow brown border visible. Pinch the cast-on edge slightly and stitch it closed so the ear cups inward.

Tall Upright Ears

The photographed donkey also has two taller upright ears rising behind the mane. These are longer and narrower than the side ears, with a pink center and brown outer edge.

Make 2 Tall Ear Backs

  1. With donkey brown, CO 10 sts.
  2. Rows 1-3: Work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
  3. Row 4: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
  4. Rows 5-16: Work in St st.
  5. Row 17: P all sts.
  6. Row 18: SSK, K8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  7. Row 19: P all sts.
  8. Row 20: SSK, K6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  9. Row 21: P all sts.
  10. Row 22: SSK, K4, k2tog. 6 sts.
  11. Row 23: P all sts.
  12. Row 24: SSK, K2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  13. Row 25: P all sts.
  14. Row 26: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
  15. BO.

Make 2 Tall Pink Inserts

  1. With pink yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Rows 1-12: Work in St st.
  3. Row 13: P all sts.
  4. Row 14: SSK, K2, k2tog. 4 sts.
  5. Row 15: P all sts.
  6. Row 16: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
  7. BO.

Sew the pink inserts to the brown backs. Fold each tall ear slightly lengthwise and secure the base. Attach both tall ears to the top of the head between rounds 8 and 14, one on each side of the mane line.

Shaggy Mane

The mane is made from short tan strands knotted along the top center of the head. It should look full, soft, and tousled like the photo, with strands standing upward and leaning forward slightly.

  • Cut 32 strands of tan yarn, each 4 inches long.
  • Starting between the tall ears, insert the hook or needle under one stitch on the head.
  • Fold one strand in half and pull the loop partly through.
  • Pull the two cut ends through the loop and tighten gently.
  • Continue in a line from the forehead crown to the back crown.
  • Trim the mane to about 1 1/4 inches long, keeping it uneven and fluffy.

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Upper Body with Striped Sweater

The body is smaller than the head and slightly pear-shaped. The upper section is striped blue and yellow, while the lower section will be covered by rust-brown overalls.

  1. With rust brown for the lower body, CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Kfb in each st around. 16 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: K all sts.
  5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb; rep around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: K all sts.
  7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb; rep around. 32 sts.
  8. Rnd 7: K all sts.
  9. Rnd 8: K3, kfb; rep around. 40 sts.
  10. Rnds 9-16: K all sts in rust brown.
  11. Change to blue.
  12. Rnds 17-18: K all sts in blue.
  13. Change to yellow.
  14. Rnds 19-20: K all sts in yellow.
  15. Change to blue.
  16. Rnds 21-22: K all sts in blue.
  17. Change to yellow.
  18. Rnds 23-24: K all sts in yellow.
  19. Change to blue.
  20. Rnds 25-26: K all sts in blue.
  21. Change to yellow.
  22. Rnd 27: K all sts in yellow.
  23. Rnd 28: K8, k2tog; rep around. 36 sts.
  24. Change to blue.
  25. Rnd 29: K all sts.
  26. Rnd 30: K4, k2tog; rep around. 30 sts.
  27. Rnd 31: K all sts.
  28. Rnd 32: K3, k2tog; rep around. 24 sts.

Stuff the body firmly, keeping the lower belly rounded and the neckline narrow. The head should sit on top without wobbling, so add extra stuffing near the upper center.

  1. Rnd 33: K2, k2tog; rep around. 18 sts.
  2. Rnd 34: K1, k2tog; rep around. 12 sts.
  3. BO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

Rust-Brown Overall Bib

The front bib sits over the striped sweater and reaches from the waist to the lower chest. It has two straps and small button details at the top corners.

  1. With rust brown, CO 18 sts.
  2. Rows 1-2: K all sts for a garter edge.
  3. Row 3: K2, P14, K2.
  4. Row 4: K all sts.
  5. Rows 5-14: Rep rows 3 and 4 five times.
  6. Row 15: K2, P2tog, P10, P2tog, K2. 16 sts.
  7. Row 16: K all sts.
  8. Rows 17-20: K2, work center in St st, K2.
  9. BO.

Sew the bib to the front of the body with the lower edge placed at round 12 and the top edge ending around round 22. Keep the bib centered between the arms.

Overall Straps

  1. With rust brown, CO 5 sts for the first strap.
  2. Work 30 rows in garter stitch.
  3. BO, leaving a sewing tail.
  4. Repeat for the second strap.

Cross the straps lightly over the shoulders or sew them straight from the bib corners over the shoulders to the back waistband. The image shows visible front straps with tiny round buttons, so sew one button to each upper bib corner.

Overall Pants Front

The pants are roomy and rounded, with a soft cuff at the bottom of each leg opening. They cover the lower body and the top of both legs.

  1. With rust brown, CO 36 sts and work flat.
  2. Rows 1-4: K all sts for a garter waistband.
  3. Rows 5-18: Work in St st.
  4. Row 19: K16, BO 4 sts, K16. This separates the leg openings.
  5. Work left side on 16 sts for 8 rows in St st.
  6. Rows 28-31 on left side: K all sts for cuff.
  7. BO left side.
  8. Rejoin yarn to right side 16 sts.
  9. Work 8 rows in St st.
  10. Rows 28-31 on right side: K all sts for cuff.
  11. BO right side.

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Sew this pants panel around the lower body, leaving the center split between the legs. Shape it so the overalls puff slightly at the hips and sit neatly over the tops of the knitted legs.

Arms with Striped Sleeves

The arms are short and rounded, with brown hands and striped sweater sleeves. They hang slightly outward from the body, just like the seated garden doll in the picture.

Make 2 Arms

  1. With donkey brown, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Kfb in each st around. 16 sts.
  4. Rnds 3-6: K all sts in brown.
  5. Change to blue.
  6. Rnds 7-8: K all sts in blue.
  7. Change to yellow.
  8. Rnds 9-10: K all sts in yellow.
  9. Change to blue.
  10. Rnds 11-12: K all sts in blue.
  11. Change to yellow.
  12. Rnds 13-14: K all sts in yellow.
  13. Change to blue.
  14. Rnds 15-18: K all sts in blue.
  15. Rnd 19: K2, k2tog; rep around. 12 sts.
  16. Rnd 20: K all sts.
  17. BO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Stuff the hand firmly and the sleeve lightly. Sew each arm to the side of the upper body around rounds 22-25, angled downward. The hands should sit near the overall hip line.

Legs

The legs are brown at the lower section and hidden partly under rust-brown overalls at the thigh. The feet wear sandal-style shoes with cream straps and little leaf details.

Make 2 Legs

  1. With donkey brown, CO 10 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Kfb in each st around. 20 sts.
  4. Rnds 3-10: K all sts.
  5. Change to rust brown.
  6. Rnds 11-20: K all sts for the upper pants-covered thigh.
  7. Rnd 21: K3, k2tog; rep around. 16 sts.
  8. Rnd 22: K all sts.
  9. BO, leaving a sewing tail.

Stuff each leg firmly at the foot and lower leg, then more softly at the thigh so the doll can sit. Sew the legs to the bottom front of the body, spaced about 1 inch apart.

Feet

Make 2 Foot Ovals

  1. With donkey brown, CO 8 sts and work flat.
  2. Row 1: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K6, kfb. 10 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
  6. Rows 5-10: Work in St st.
  7. Row 11: P all sts.
  8. Row 12: SSK, K8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  9. Row 13: P all sts.
  10. Row 14: SSK, K6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  11. BO.

Sew one foot oval to the front base of each leg, stuffing lightly before closing. The feet should point forward and sit flat on the table edge when the doll is seated.

Sandal Soles and Straps

Make 2 Rust Soles

  1. With rust brown, CO 10 sts.
  2. Rows 1-3: K all sts.
  3. Row 4: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
  4. Rows 5-12: K all sts.
  5. Row 13: SSK, K8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  6. Rows 14-15: K all sts.
  7. BO.

Make 4 Cream Sandal Straps

  1. With cream, CO 4 sts.
  2. Work 14 rows in garter stitch.
  3. BO.

Sew one rust sole under each foot. Place two cream straps across each foot, one near the toes and one around the ankle. Add one tiny brown button or a small embroidered dot to the outer side of each sandal.

Make 4 Green Sandal Leaves

  1. With green, CO 3 sts.
  2. Row 1: K all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts.
  4. Row 3: K all sts.
  5. Row 4: SSK, K1, k2tog. 3 sts.
  6. BO.

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Sew two small leaves to each sandal, near the side button, matching the decorative leaf details visible in the image.

Tail

The tail is slim and brown with a tufted end. It peeks from the right side behind the seated doll and rests on the table.

  1. With donkey brown, CO 6 sts and work an I-cord for 22 rows.
  2. BO, leaving a sewing tail.
  3. Cut 10 strands of tan yarn, each 3 inches long.
  4. Fold the strands in half and tie them to the tail tip.
  5. Trim the tuft to about 1 inch.

Sew the plain end of the tail to the back lower body, slightly to the right side. Let the tuft point outward so it is visible beside the doll.

Crossbody Satchel

The small knitted satchel hangs across the front of the doll from shoulder to hip. It has a pale base, a green strap, and a tiny flower on the front.

Bag Body

  1. With cream yarn, CO 16 sts.
  2. Rows 1-2: K all sts.
  3. Row 3: K2, P12, K2.
  4. Row 4: K all sts.
  5. Rows 5-12: Rep rows 3 and 4 four times.
  6. Row 13: Change to light blue and K all sts.
  7. Row 14: K all sts.
  8. Row 15: Change to cream and K2, P12, K2.
  9. Row 16: K all sts.
  10. BO.

Fold the rectangle in half with the wrong sides together. Sew the side seams, leaving the top open. Lightly stuff the bag or leave it flat for a softer drape.

Bag Flap

  1. With cream, CO 14 sts.
  2. Rows 1-4: K all sts.
  3. Row 5: SSK, K10, k2tog. 12 sts.
  4. Row 6: K all sts.
  5. Row 7: SSK, K8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  6. Row 8: K all sts.
  7. BO.

Sew the flap to the back top edge and fold it over the front. Add a small pink knitted flower to the flap center.

Green Strap

  1. With green yarn, CO 4 sts.
  2. Work garter stitch for 68 rows.
  3. BO.

Sew the strap ends to the upper corners of the bag. Place it over one shoulder and across the chest, letting the bag rest at the opposite hip, just like the picture.

Small Flower for Satchel

  1. With yellow, CO 4 sts and BO all sts to make a tiny center knot.
  2. With pink, CO 3 sts.
  3. Knit 3 rows, BO. Make 5 petals.
  4. Sew petals around the yellow center.
  5. With green, embroider a short stem and two small leaves under the flower.

Garden Hat

The hat sits beside the donkey in the image. It is blue with yellow stripes, a yellow ribbed brim, and a fluffy blue-and-yellow pom-pom on top.

  1. With yellow yarn, CO 48 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnds 1-6: K2, P2 rib around.
  3. Change to blue.
  4. Rnds 7-12: K all sts in blue.
  5. Change to yellow.
  6. Rnds 13-14: K all sts in yellow.
  7. Change to blue.
  8. Rnds 15-18: K all sts in blue.
  9. Change to yellow.
  10. Rnds 19-20: K all sts in yellow.
  11. Change to blue.
  12. Rnd 21: K6, k2tog; rep around. 42 sts.
  13. Rnd 22: K all sts.
  14. Rnd 23: K5, k2tog; rep around. 36 sts.
  15. Rnd 24: K all sts.
  16. Rnd 25: K4, k2tog; rep around. 30 sts.
  17. Rnd 26: K3, k2tog; rep around. 24 sts.
  18. Rnd 27: K2, k2tog; rep around. 18 sts.
  19. Rnd 28: K1, k2tog; rep around. 12 sts.
  20. Rnd 29: K2tog around. 6 sts.

Cut yarn, pull through the remaining stitches, and close the crown. Make a small pom-pom using both blue and yellow yarn. Attach it securely to the top center of the hat.

Flower Pot

The flower pot is a tiny terracotta-style knitted pot with a dark soil top, a green stem, leaves, and one pink flower with a yellow center.

Pot Base

  1. With terracotta yarn, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnds 1-3: K all sts.
  3. Rnd 4: K5, kfb; rep around. 28 sts.
  4. Rnds 5-10: K all sts.
  5. Rnd 11: K5, k2tog; rep around. 24 sts.
  6. Rnds 12-13: K all sts.
  7. BO loosely.

Soil Circle

  1. With dark brown yarn, CO 6 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: Kfb in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: K1, kfb; rep around. 18 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: K2, kfb; rep around. 24 sts.
  5. BO.

Stuff the pot. Sew the soil circle to the top opening, shaping the pot so it stands upright. Keep the base slightly flatter than the top.

Flower Stem and Leaves

  1. With green yarn, CO 4 sts and work an I-cord for 14 rows.
  2. BO and sew the stem upright to the soil center.
  3. For each leaf, CO 3 sts, K1 row, kfb into each st on next row for 6 sts.
  4. K1 row, then k2tog across for 3 sts. BO.
  5. Make 2 leaves and sew them to the stem.

Pink Flower

  1. With yellow, CO 5 sts and BO to form the center.
  2. With pink, CO 4 sts for one petal.
  3. Rows 1-3: K all sts.
  4. Row 4: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
  5. BO.
  6. Make 5 petals and sew them around the yellow center.
  7. Attach the flower to the top of the green stem.

Mini Watering Can

The small watering can is cream with a blue stripe. It sits next to the flower pot and gives the whole set a garden theme.

Can Body

  1. With cream yarn, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnds 1-4: K all sts in cream.
  3. Change to light blue.
  4. Rnds 5-6: K all sts in light blue.
  5. Change to cream.
  6. Rnds 7-12: K all sts in cream.
  7. Rnd 13: K4, k2tog; rep around. 20 sts.
  8. Rnd 14: K all sts.
  9. Rnd 15: K3, k2tog; rep around. 16 sts.
  10. BO.

Stuff very lightly so the can keeps its rounded shape without becoming too bulky. Sew the bottom closed flat.

Spout

  1. With cream, CO 6 sts and work an I-cord for 12 rows.
  2. BO.
  3. Shape the I-cord into a gentle upward spout.
  4. Sew one end to the side of the can near the blue stripe.

Handle

  1. With cream, CO 5 sts.
  2. Work garter stitch for 24 rows.
  3. BO.
  4. Curve into a handle and sew both ends to the opposite side of the can.

Facial Placement Guide

  • Place the blue eye circles between rounds 16 and 26 of the head.
  • Keep about 7 stitches between the inner eye edges.
  • Place the muzzle between rounds 23 and 37, centered under the eyes.
  • Set the side ears around rounds 13-18, angled outward.
  • Set the tall ears around rounds 8-14, rising upward.
  • Attach the mane along the center line from forehead to crown.

Seated Body Position

To copy the seated look, sew the legs to the lower front instead of directly underneath the body. The thighs should point downward, and the feet should extend forward. This allows the donkey to sit on a shelf, table, or bench with the legs hanging naturally.

Sew the head to the body with a slight forward tilt. The large head should rest securely above the striped sweater neckline, while the overalls remain visible on the front.

Finishing the Clothing Details

  • Sew the overall bib on after the head is attached, so you can center it properly.
  • Add the two front buttons at the top of the bib, one on each strap.
  • Use short vertical stitches on the pants cuffs to imitate knitted ribbing.
  • Weave in all color-change tails on the inside whenever possible.
  • Steam lightly only if needed, but do not flatten the stuffed pieces.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

  1. Sew the head securely to the body using the long body tail.
  2. Attach the arms to the sides of the striped sweater, angled down.
  3. Sew the legs to the lower front body so the doll sits.
  4. Add the feet and sandals, keeping both feet level.
  5. Sew the tail to the back right side of the lower body.
  6. Attach side ears, tall ears, and mane.
  7. Sew on the satchel strap across the chest and secure the bag at the hip.
  8. Place the hat, flower pot, and watering can beside the donkey for the full garden display.

For the face, embroider slowly and symmetrically. A small smile, two short nostrils, and large round blue eyes are the most important features for matching the sweet expression in the photo.

Care Notes

  • Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
  • Do not machine wash if safety eyes, buttons, or small sewn decorations are attached.
  • Let the doll air dry fully before storing.
  • Keep away from pets that may pull at the mane, pom-pom, or satchel strap.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head is larger than the body and softly rounded.
  • Cream muzzle is centered and lightly padded.
  • Eyes are large, blue, and evenly placed.
  • Striped sweater shows blue and yellow bands on body and sleeves.
  • Rust overalls include bib, pants, straps, cuffs, and buttons.
  • Satchel crosses the body and has a small flower.
  • Sandals include cream straps and green leaf accents.
  • Hat, flower pot, and watering can are completed as matching accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust the doll gently with a soft dry cloth or a clean makeup brush. For small stains, dab the spot with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap, then dab again with plain water.

Do not twist, wring, or soak the finished donkey. The stuffed head, muzzle, feet, and accessories can lose their shape if handled roughly while wet.

Store the doll upright or seated in a dry place away from direct sunlight. If the mane or tail becomes flattened, fluff the yarn strands gently with your fingers and trim only uneven ends.

For long-term display, keep the small accessories near the doll but not under heavy pressure. The flower stem, watering can spout, and hat pom-pom will stay neat longer when stored without being crushed.

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