Knitting Tutorial: Basset Hound Blue Nordic Cardigan Doll – Free Knitting Pattern

This sweet knitted basset hound doll is designed with a large soft head, long floppy brown ears, a cream muzzle, blue Nordic cardigan, matching blue pants, a textured beret with a tiny flower, and a striped shoulder bag. The finished doll sits neatly with rounded paws, visible brown soles, small buttons, and gentle facial details that match the cozy handmade look in the photo.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern makes a seated basset hound doll with a firm knitted body and separate clothing pieces. The doll is worked mostly flat and seamed, which makes it friendly for knitters who are still learning toy construction. The cardigan, beret, pants, bag, ears, face panel, and paws are all shaped with exact stitch counts.

The pictured style has a soft country handmade look, so the fabric should be firm but not stiff. Use smaller needles than the yarn label suggests. This prevents stuffing from showing and helps the muzzle, cheeks, paws, and ears keep their rounded shape.

• Finished seated height: about 11 inches from seat to top of beret.
• Full length if stretched: about 14 inches from head top to foot.
• Skill level: adventurous beginner to intermediate.
• Construction: flat knitted pieces, mattress stitch seams, light stuffing, sewn-on clothing and accessories.
• Main look: brown and cream basset hound wearing a denim-blue Nordic cardigan, blue pants, blue beret, and striped bag.

Materials

• DK weight yarn in warm cream, about 80 yards.
• DK weight yarn in soft taupe brown, about 85 yards.
• DK weight yarn in chocolate brown, about 25 yards.
• DK weight yarn in denim blue, about 120 yards.
• DK weight yarn in natural ivory for Nordic pattern and bag stripes, about 35 yards.
• Small amount of pale yellow yarn for the flower center.
• Small amount of pale pink yarn or embroidery floss for cheek blush.
• US 2 or 2.75 mm straight needles.
• US 2 or 2.75 mm double-pointed needles for I-cord strap, optional.
• Two 8 mm black safety eyes or black beads.
• Four 8 mm wooden buttons for the cardigan.
• One 7 mm wooden button for the bag flap.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Small sharp scissors.

Gauge

Gauge: 26 stitches and 34 rows equal 4 inches in stockinette stitch after firm knitting. Gauge does not need to be perfect, but the fabric must be tight enough to hide stuffing. If your stitches are loose, go down one needle size.

The cardigan and pants are meant to fit the doll closely. If your toy body becomes larger, add 2 stitches to each cardigan front and 4 stitches to the cardigan back. Keep the Nordic pattern centered by adding plain blue stitches at the side edges only.

Abbreviations

• BO: bind off.
• CO: cast on.
• K: knit.
• P: purl.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• st or sts: stitch or stitches.
• kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch.
• p2tog: purl 2 stitches together.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• ssk: slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit slipped stitches together through the back loops.
• St st: stockinette stitch, knit on RS rows and purl on WS rows.
• G st: garter stitch, knit every row.
• Sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn held to wrong side.
• Blue: denim blue yarn.
• Cream: warm cream yarn.
• Ivory: natural ivory yarn used for Nordic details.
• Taupe: soft brown yarn for head and ears.
• Chocolate: dark brown yarn for nose and soles.

Helpful Notes Before You Begin

All pieces are knitted flat unless a section clearly says I-cord. Leave yarn tails at least 10 inches long for sewing. When sewing toy pieces, use mattress stitch on the right side whenever possible. This creates a smooth seam that blends into the knitted fabric.

The face is built in layers. A taupe head gives the basset hound its brown side patches. A cream face panel and stuffed cream muzzle are sewn on top. This creates the long cream blaze, rounded snout, and soft puppy expression seen in the photo.

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The clothing is intentionally close-fitting. The cardigan has a real opening at the front, a ribbed hem, small button bands, Nordic colorwork, and separate sleeves. The pants are built into the legs so the seated pose stays neat and stable.

Main Body

Torso Core

The torso is mostly hidden by the cardigan, but it gives the doll its seated shape. Use cream yarn for the upper body and blue yarn for the lower body so no light color shows between the pants and cardigan.

1. With cream yarn, CO 16 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K all sts.
3. Row 2, WS: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 18 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 40 sts.
7. Work 8 rows in St st.
8. Change to blue yarn.
9. Work 12 rows in St st.
10. Next RS row: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 38 sts.
11. Next WS row: P all sts.
12. Repeat the last 2 rows until 24 sts remain.
13. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.

Fold the torso piece with right sides together. Sew the back seam from neck to lower edge, leaving a 1 inch opening. Turn right side out. Stuff firmly at the belly and lightly at the neck. Close the opening neatly.

Head

Taupe Head Base

The head base forms the rounded sides and back of the basset hound head. The finished head should be wider than the body, with a soft oval shape. Do not overstuff the lower face, because the separate muzzle will add fullness.

1. With taupe yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K all sts.
3. Row 2, WS: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 44 sts.
7. Work 16 rows in St st.
8. Next RS row: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 42 sts.
9. Next WS row: P all sts.
10. Repeat the last 2 rows until 12 sts remain.
11. BO all sts, leaving a 14 inch tail.

Fold the head base lengthwise with right sides together. Sew from the cast-on edge around the top curve and down toward the bind-off edge, leaving a 1.5 inch opening at the lower back. Turn right side out. Stuff until the head is rounded and slightly firm.

Cream Face Blaze

The cream face panel creates the long white stripe down the forehead and the wide cream front of the face. It should sit from the top center of the head down to the muzzle area, leaving taupe visible on both cheeks.

1. With cream yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K all sts.
3. Row 2, WS: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Repeat Rows 5 and 6 until you have 24 sts.
9. Work 10 rows in St st.
10. Next RS row: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 22 sts.
11. Next WS row: P all sts.
12. Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 sts remain.
13. Work 4 rows in St st.
14. BO all sts.

Pin the cream blaze to the front of the taupe head. The narrow end should point toward the beret, and the wider section should cover the front cheeks. Sew around the edge with small stitches. Do not stuff this panel.

Stuffed Cream Muzzle

The muzzle is a separate rounded oval. It gives the dog the soft basset nose shape shown in the image. The top edge should sit just below the eyes, and the lower curve should project gently forward.

1. With cream yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K all sts.
3. Row 2, WS: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 30 sts.
7. Work 8 rows in St st.
8. Next RS row: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 28 sts.
9. Next WS row: P all sts.
10. Repeat the last 2 rows until 12 sts remain.
11. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

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Run a gathering thread around the outside edge of the muzzle. Add a small amount of stuffing, pull the gathering thread until the piece becomes a soft oval dome, and secure it. Sew the muzzle to the lower face panel. Keep the top slightly flatter and the lower half rounder.

Chocolate Nose Patch

1. With chocolate yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K2, kfb, K1. 8 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 to 8: Work in St st.
7. Row 9: K1, ssk, K2, k2tog, K1. 6 sts.
8. BO all sts.

Sew the chocolate nose patch to the front center of the cream muzzle. Use chocolate yarn to embroider one vertical line from the nose downward, then add a small Y-shaped mouth. Keep the expression gentle and slightly sleepy.

Eyes and Face Details

• Place the eyes about 1 inch above the top of the muzzle.
• Leave about 1.25 inches between the eyes.
• The eyes should sit on the taupe cheek area close to the cream blaze edge.
• Sew or attach eyes before the head is fully closed if using safety eyes.
• Add two very light pink duplicate stitches on each lower cheek for blush.
• Use a short strand of cream yarn to smooth the edge where the muzzle meets the face.

After the eyes are attached, finish stuffing the head. Close the opening at the back lower head. The head should be larger than the torso and slightly tilted forward when sewn on.

Long Floppy Ears

The ears are one of the most important basset hound details. They hang from the side of the head, curve softly forward, and reach close to the top of the cardigan shoulder. Knit them firmly but do not stuff them.

Make 2 Ears

1. With taupe yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: K all sts.
3. Row 3, RS: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
4. Row 4, WS: K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
5. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 20 sts.
6. Work 26 rows as follows: RS rows K all sts, WS rows K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
7. Next RS row: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 18 sts.
8. Next WS row: K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
9. Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 sts remain.
10. Rows 1 to 2 after shaping: K all sts.
11. BO all sts.

Steam lightly with your hand, not an iron, to relax the ears. Sew one ear to each side of the head, beginning just below the eye line. Angle the top seam slightly backward so the ears fall forward naturally.

Arms With Cream Paws and Blue Sleeves

The arms show cream paws peeking out from blue cardigan sleeves. Each arm is knitted from paw to shoulder. The paw is cream, the sleeve is denim blue, and a small ivory Nordic band appears near the upper sleeve.

Make 2 Arms

1. With cream yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K all sts.
3. Row 2, WS: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 18 sts.
7. Work 6 rows in St st.
8. Change to blue yarn.
9. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib.
10. Work 4 rows in blue St st.
11. Nordic sleeve Row 1, RS: K1 blue, repeat K1 ivory, K3 blue to last st, K1 blue.
12. Nordic sleeve Row 2, WS: P1 blue, repeat P3 blue, P1 ivory to last st, P1 blue.
13. Nordic sleeve Row 3, RS: K1 blue, repeat K2 blue, K1 ivory, K1 blue to last st, K1 blue.
14. Nordic sleeve Row 4, WS: P1 blue, repeat P1 blue, P1 ivory, P2 blue to last st, P1 blue.
15. Work 10 rows in blue St st.
16. Next RS row: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 16 sts.
17. Next WS row: P all sts.
18. Work 2 rows in St st.
19. BO all sts.

Fold each arm lengthwise. Sew the side seam, leaving the shoulder end open. Stuff the cream paw firmly and the sleeve lightly. Use cream yarn to make three short vertical stitches on each paw to suggest soft paw divisions.

Legs, Pants, Cream Toes, and Brown Soles

The legs are made as blue pant legs with cream front paws and chocolate soles. The seated pose depends on firm legs, so stuff the feet well and the upper legs moderately. The feet should point forward with the brown soles visible at the bottom.

Make 2 Leg Pieces

1. With cream yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1, RS: K all sts.
3. Row 2, WS: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 22 sts.
7. Work 8 rows in cream St st.
8. Change to blue yarn.
9. Work 2 rows in blue St st.
10. Change to ivory yarn and work 2 rows in St st.
11. Change back to blue yarn.
12. Work 6 rows in K1, P1 rib for the cuff.
13. Work 24 rows in blue St st.
14. Next RS row: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 24 sts.
15. Work 5 rows in St st.
16. BO all sts.

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Chocolate Soles

1. With chocolate yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
7. Rows 6 to 12: Work in St st.
8. Row 13: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 10 sts.
9. Row 14: P all sts.
10. Row 15: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. 8 sts.
11. BO all sts.

Fold and sew each leg seam from the top of the blue pant leg down to the cream foot. Stuff the leg. Sew one chocolate sole under each cream foot. With cream yarn, embroider four short toe lines on the front of each foot.

Blue Pants Seat Panel

This small blue panel connects the two legs and creates the seated trouser shape. It also helps the legs sit forward instead of hanging straight down.

1. With blue yarn, CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in K1, P1 rib.
3. Rows 5 to 18: Work in St st.
4. Row 19: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 22 sts.
5. Row 20: P all sts.
6. Repeat Rows 19 and 20 until 16 sts remain.
7. BO all sts.

Sew the seat panel between the tops of the two leg pieces. Attach the joined legs to the lower blue section of the torso. Angle the legs forward at about 90 degrees so the doll sits like the image.

Blue Nordic Cardigan

The cardigan is the visual centerpiece of the doll. It has a ribbed hem, small button bands, a blue and ivory Nordic pattern, separate sleeves, and four wooden buttons. Work color changes neatly and catch floats every 3 stitches on the wrong side.

Back of Cardigan

1. With blue yarn, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work K1, P1 rib.
3. Rows 7 to 8: Work in blue St st.
4. Row 9, RS: K1 blue, repeat K2 blue, K1 ivory, K2 blue, K1 ivory, K2 blue across 32 sts, K1 blue.
5. Row 10, WS: P1 blue, repeat P2 blue, P1 ivory, P2 blue, P1 ivory, P2 blue across 32 sts, P1 blue.
6. Rows 11 to 12: Work in blue St st.
7. Row 13, RS: K1 blue, repeat K1 ivory, K3 blue, K1 ivory, K3 blue across 32 sts, K1 blue.
8. Row 14, WS: P1 blue, repeat P3 blue, P1 ivory, P3 blue, P1 ivory across 32 sts, P1 blue.
9. Row 15, RS: K1 blue, repeat K2 blue, K1 ivory, K1 blue, K1 ivory, K3 blue across 32 sts, K1 blue.
10. Row 16, WS: P1 blue, repeat P3 blue, P1 ivory, P1 blue, P1 ivory, P2 blue across 32 sts, P1 blue.
11. Rows 17 to 18: Work in ivory St st for a pale horizontal band.
12. Rows 19 to 24: Work in blue St st.
13. Rows 25 to 32: Repeat Rows 9 to 16.
14. Rows 33 to 36: Work in blue St st.
15. Rows 37 to 40: Work K1, P1 rib.
16. BO all sts.

Right Front With Buttonholes

The right front is the side with buttonholes. Keep the first 4 stitches in garter stitch for the front band. The remaining stitches use the same blue and ivory pattern as the back.

1. With blue yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: K4, then work K1, P1 rib to end.
3. Rows 7 to 8: K4, work remaining 16 sts in blue St st.
4. Row 9, RS: K4, repeat K2 blue, K1 ivory, K2 blue, K1 ivory, K2 blue twice.
5. Row 10, WS: P16 following colors as set, K4.
6. Rows 11 to 12: K4 on band, work remaining sts in blue St st.
7. Row 13, RS buttonhole: K1, K2tog, yarn over, K1, then work remaining 16 sts in pattern repeat K1 ivory, K3 blue, K1 ivory, K3 blue twice.
8. Row 14, WS: P16 following colors as set, K4.
9. Rows 15 to 16: Continue the Nordic pattern as for the back over the 16 body sts.
10. Rows 17 to 18: K4 band, work 16 sts in ivory St st.
11. Rows 19 to 24: K4 band, work 16 sts in blue St st.
12. Row 25, RS buttonhole: K1, K2tog, yarn over, K1, then repeat Row 9 pattern across 16 sts.
13. Rows 26 to 32: Continue matching the back Nordic rows.
14. Row 33, RS buttonhole: K1, K2tog, yarn over, K1, then work 16 sts in blue St st.
15. Rows 34 to 36: Continue with K4 band and blue St st.
16. Row 37, RS buttonhole: K1, K2tog, yarn over, K1, then work rib to end.
17. Rows 38 to 40: K4 band, work rib to end.
18. BO all sts.

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Left Front

1. With blue yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work K1, P1 rib to last 4 sts, K4.
3. Rows 7 to 8: Work 16 sts in blue St st, K4 band.
4. Rows 9 to 40: Match the right front pattern, but keep the last 4 sts in garter stitch and do not make buttonholes.
5. BO all sts.

Cardigan Sleeves

1. With blue yarn, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work K1, P1 rib.
3. Row 7, RS: K1, kfb, K to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. 24 sts.
4. Row 8, WS: P all sts.
5. Repeat Rows 7 and 8 until you have 30 sts.
6. Rows 15 to 18: Work in blue St st.
7. Row 19, RS: K1 blue, repeat K1 ivory, K3 blue across to last st, K1 blue.
8. Row 20, WS: P1 blue, repeat P3 blue, P1 ivory across to last st, P1 blue.
9. Row 21, RS: K1 blue, repeat K2 blue, K1 ivory, K1 blue across to last st, K1 blue.
10. Row 22, WS: P1 blue, repeat P1 blue, P1 ivory, P2 blue across to last st, P1 blue.
11. Rows 23 to 26: Work in ivory St st.
12. Rows 27 to 34: Work in blue St st.
13. Row 35: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. 28 sts.
14. Row 36: P all sts.
15. BO all sts.

Sew cardigan shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams, then set sleeves into the arm openings. Sew side seams from the hem to the underarm. Attach four wooden buttons to the left front so they line up with the buttonholes.

Textured Blue Beret

The beret sits tilted on the head and has a soft ribbed edge with raised texture. It should cover the top of the head and slightly overlap the ear roots, just like the photo.

1. With blue yarn, CO 48 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work K2, P2 rib.
3. Row 7, RS: K all sts, increasing 12 sts evenly across. 60 sts.
4. Row 8, WS: P all sts.
5. Row 9: Repeat K4, P2 across row.
6. Row 10: Repeat K2, P4 across row as stitches appear.
7. Rows 11 to 16: Repeat Rows 9 and 10 three more times.
8. Row 17: Repeat K3, k2tog across row. 48 sts.
9. Row 18: P all sts.
10. Row 19: Repeat K2, k2tog across row. 36 sts.
11. Row 20: P all sts.
12. Row 21: Repeat K1, k2tog across row. 24 sts.
13. Row 22: P all sts.
14. Row 23: Repeat k2tog across row. 12 sts.
15. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and secure.

Sew the back seam of the beret. Place it on the head with the seam at the back. Tilt the beret slightly to the dog’s right side. Tack it in place with hidden blue stitches around the ribbed edge.

Small Flower on Beret

1. With ivory yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: Repeat K2tog across row. 10 sts.
4. Cut yarn, thread through all sts, and pull gently to curl into a flower.
5. With pale yellow yarn, make 3 small stitches in the center.
6. Sew the flower to the right front side of the beret.

Striped Shoulder Bag

The bag is a small rectangular satchel with blue and ivory stripes, a flap, one button, and a narrow strap. It sits beside the doll and echoes the colors of the cardigan.

Bag Body

1. With blue yarn, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in G st.
3. Rows 5 to 8: Work in blue St st.
4. Rows 9 to 12: Change to ivory and work St st.
5. Rows 13 to 18: Change to blue and work St st.
6. Rows 19 to 22: Change to ivory and work St st.
7. Rows 23 to 30: Change to blue and work St st.
8. BO all sts.

Fold the bag body upward so the bottom stripe sits at the base and the upper blue section forms the back. Sew both side seams. Lightly stuff with a thin layer of fiberfill if you want the bag to keep its boxy shape.

Bag Flap

1. With blue yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in G st.
3. Rows 5 to 10: Work in St st.
4. Row 11: K7, k2tog, yarn over, K9.
5. Rows 12 to 14: Work in G st.
6. BO all sts.

Sew the flap to the upper back edge of the bag. Sew one small wooden button to the front so the buttonhole can close over it.

I-Cord Strap

1. With blue yarn and double-pointed needles, CO 4 sts.
2. K4, slide sts to the other end of the needle, and pull yarn snug behind the work.
3. Repeat until the cord measures 12 inches.
4. BO all sts.
5. Sew one end of the strap to each side of the bag.

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Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the torso first.
2. Sew and stuff the head, then attach the cream face blaze.
3. Add the stuffed muzzle and chocolate nose patch.
4. Attach eyes and embroider the mouth, cheeks, and paw lines.
5. Sew ears to the sides of the head.
6. Sew the head to the torso with the head angled slightly forward.
7. Attach legs to the lower torso in a seated position.
8. Attach arms to the upper sides of the torso.
9. Place cardigan on the doll, close buttons, and tack at shoulders if desired.
10. Place beret on the head and tack securely.
11. Finish the flower and sew it to the beret.
12. Place the bag beside the doll or loop the strap over one shoulder.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Use small stitches and matching yarn for all final seams. The head should sit slightly large and forward, giving the basset hound its gentle puppy look. The ears should hang down softly on both sides and frame the cream muzzle.

Check the cardigan before securing it. The button band should run straight down the center front, and the Nordic pattern should sit evenly across the chest and sleeves. The pants should meet the cardigan hem with no large gap.

• Add tiny pink cheek stitches after the muzzle is fully sewn.
• Use chocolate yarn to deepen the nose if needed.
• Shape the muzzle with your fingers so it is oval, not flat.
• Pull the ears slightly forward before the final tacking stitches.
• Tilt the beret gently and secure it behind the flower.

Care Notes

This doll is best treated as a decorative handmade toy. Spot clean gently with cool water and mild soap. Do not machine wash if you used wooden buttons, safety eyes, or delicate embroidery. Let the doll dry flat on a towel.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is larger than the torso and lightly tilted forward.
• The cream blaze runs from forehead to muzzle.
• The long taupe ears hang beside the face.
• The blue cardigan has four buttons and ivory Nordic bands.
• The pants are blue with cream paws and chocolate soles.
• The beret is blue, textured, tilted, and decorated with a small flower.
• The striped bag has a flap, button, and narrow strap.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, support the head and muzzle when cleaning. Dab stains instead of rubbing them. Keep the doll away from strong sunlight for long periods, because blue and brown yarns may fade. Store it upright or seated so the ears and beret keep their shape.

If the doll becomes flattened, gently reshape it by hand. Add a small amount of fresh stuffing through a hidden seam only if necessary. Keep spare yarn tails from the project so future repairs can match the original colors.