This pink garden dragon crochet doll has a tall rounded head, long neck, soft snout, wide blue eyes, tiny horn, garden wings, green plaid overalls, cream shirt sleeves, strappy sandals, and tiny flower details. The set also includes a straw sun hat with carrot trim, a garden tote with a watering can patch, a mini carrot, a berry basket, strawberries, and a small crochet trowel.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Details
- Skill level: Intermediate beginner to intermediate.
- Finished dragon size: About 12.5 inches tall when made with worsted weight yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.
- Construction: Most body pieces are worked in continuous rounds. Overalls, shirt sleeves, wings, sandals, hat, tote, basket, fruit, and tool are made separately and sewn on.
- Main look: Firm amigurumi shaping, rounded pink body, long upright neck, garden outfit, textured plaid lines, large glossy eyes, and soft accessories.
Materials
- Worsted weight yarn in bright rose pink for dragon body.
- Worsted weight yarn in medium garden green for overalls, straps, hat band, leaves, and berry tops.
- Worsted weight yarn in cream for shirt, eye rims, sandal flowers, and daisy petals.
- Worsted weight yarn in tan or beige for hat, tote, basket, sandal soles, and handles.
- Worsted weight yarn in dark brown for plaid lines, sandal straps, trowel handle, flower centers, and tiny outlines.
- Small amount of orange yarn for carrots.
- Small amount of red yarn for strawberries.
- Small amount of light blue yarn for watering can patch and trowel blade.
- Small amount of white yarn for eye highlights if you embroider instead of using safety eyes.
- Two 18 mm blue safety eyes or black safety eyes with crocheted blue iris circles.
- 3.0 mm crochet hook for the doll.
- 2.5 mm crochet hook for flowers, berries, plaid details, and small accessories.
- Fiberfill stuffing.
- Yarn needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors.
- Two small wooden buttons, about 8 mm wide, for overall straps.
- Optional craft wire for wing edges and tote handles.
Abbreviations Used
- MR: magic ring
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec: invisible single crochet decrease
- BLO: back loop only
- FLO: front loop only
- st: stitch
- rnd: round
- FO: fasten off
Gauge and Firmness
For a neat amigurumi finish, use a hook small enough that stuffing does not show through the stitches. With worsted yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, 7 sc across should measure about 1 inch. Exact gauge is less important than tight, even fabric.
The dragon in the picture has dense, slightly rounded stitches. Stuff the head and body firmly, but keep the snout, arms, feet, and wings softer so the doll keeps a handmade plush look.
Important Crochet Notes
- Work in continuous rounds unless the pattern tells you to join.
- Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
- Stuff gradually as you work, especially the long neck and body.
- When sewing pieces together, pin everything first. The upright posture depends on balanced placement.
- The overalls should sit high on the belly, with short legs and rolled cuffs.
- The wings are placed behind the shirt sleeves, angled slightly upward like soft garden-dragon wings.
Pink Dragon Head
The head is tall and rounded at the top, narrowing slightly toward the snout. Work in rose pink. The eyes sit high on the front, and the soft muzzle is added separately to create the dragon face shown in the image.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 13: sc around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 14: sc around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 15: sc 8, dec, repeat around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 16: sc around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 17: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 18: sc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 19: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 20: sc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 21: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 22: sc around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 23: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 24: sc around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 25: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 26: sc around. 24 sts.
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Insert eyes between Rnds 13 and 14, about 8 stitches apart. If using crocheted eyes, sew the eye rims and iris pieces on after stuffing. Stuff the head firmly, shaping the upper head round and the lower face slightly narrow.
Large Crocheted Eye Rims and Blue Irises
The eyes in the image are oversized, round, bright, and framed with cream crochet rims. Make two of each part. Use a smaller hook for a tight circle.
Blue Iris Circles
- Rnd 1: With blue yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Cream Eye Rims
- Rnd 1: With cream yarn, ch 24, sl st to first ch to form a ring.
- Rnd 2: sc in each ch around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 3: sl st around loosely to thicken the rim. FO.
Sew each blue circle behind a cream rim. Add black safety eyes through the center before attaching, or embroider a black pupil using black yarn. Add a tiny white stitched highlight at the upper left of each eye.
Dragon Snout
The snout is oval, protruding, and placed low on the face. It should look soft and rounded, with two small nostril bumps on top. Use rose pink.
- Rnd 1: Ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side of chain, sc 4, inc in last ch. 14 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 26 sts.
- Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 26 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc around. 26 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc around. 26 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc 11, dec, sc 11, dec. 24 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Stuff lightly. Sew the snout to the lower front of the head, centered below the eyes. The top of the snout should sit around Rnd 17 of the head, and the bottom should reach about Rnd 23.
Nostril Bumps
Make two in rose pink.
- Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 5 sts.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Sew the nostril bumps on top of the snout, about 3 stitches apart. Add one small dark pink or brown stitch in the center of each nostril for depth.
Long Neck
The dragon has a tall straight neck that supports the head above the overalls. It is narrow but firmly stuffed. Use rose pink.
- Rnd 1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc around. 16 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 13: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 14: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 15: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 16: sc around. 20 sts.
- Rnd 17: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 18: sc around. 24 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Stuff the neck very firmly. Sew the top of the neck to the opening at the bottom of the head. Keep the face looking straight forward. A slight backward tilt helps the doll balance with the wings.
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Body Base Under the Overalls
The body is pear-shaped, wide at the lower belly and narrower at the shoulders. It is mostly hidden by the green overalls, but the pink lower center and neck connection remain visible.
- Rnd 1: With rose pink, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 13: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 14: sc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 15: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 16: sc around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 17: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 18: sc around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 19: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 20: sc around. 24 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Stuff firmly. Sew the neck to the top center of the body. The neck should rise from the cream shirt collar area later, so keep the seam neat but do not worry if it is visible now.
Cream Shirt Collar and Sleeves
The shirt is short-sleeved and cream-colored, visible above the overalls and around the arms. It has a simple collar band around the neck and two puffed sleeves.
Shirt Collar Band
- Row 1: With cream yarn, ch 31. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 30. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 2: sc 30. FO, leaving a long tail.
Wrap the band around the base of the neck and sew it closed at the back. Stitch the bottom edge to the upper body so it looks like a cream shirt under the green overalls.
Short Sleeves
Make two in cream.
- Rnd 1: Ch 18, sl st to join. 18 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 6: FLO, sc around for a soft sleeve edge. 18 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Slide each sleeve over the top of an arm before sewing the arms to the body. The sleeves should sit like little cream caps just under the shoulder straps.
Arms
The arms are slim, pink, and hang down along the sides of the overalls. The hands are rounded with a thumb-like bump. Make two in rose pink.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc 4, bobble using 4 dc in next st for thumb, sc 7. 12 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec. 10 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 13: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 14: sc around. 10 sts.
- Flatten the top and sc 5 across both layers. FO, leaving a long tail.
Lightly stuff only the lower half of each arm. Sew the arms at the upper sides of the body after the shirt sleeves are positioned. The hands should reach the lower side of the overalls.
Legs and Feet
The legs are short and mostly covered by the overall shorts. The feet are pink and wide, designed to fit inside brown and tan sandals. Make two.
Foot and Lower Leg
- Rnd 1: With rose pink, ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4 along other side, inc in last ch. 14 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 26 sts.
- Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 26 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc around. 26 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc 8, dec 5 times, sc 8. 21 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc 7, dec 3 times, sc 8. 18 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 15 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc around. 15 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc around. 15 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 15 sts.
- FO for first leg only. Do not fasten off second leg if you want to join directly to the body base, or FO both and sew them under the body.
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Stuff the feet firmly and the legs lightly. Sew both legs under the body, leaving a small pink gap between them at the front, just like the visible pink center beneath the overalls.
Green Plaid Overalls
The overalls are the main outfit detail. They are green, short, rounded, and high-waisted with straps, a front bib, a square pocket, rolled cuffs, and dark brown plaid lines. Work the base in green, then embroider the plaid.
Overall Shorts Base
Make two short leg tubes first.
- Rnd 1: With green yarn, ch 22, sl st to join. 22 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 22 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc around. 22 sts.
- Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 22 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc around. 22 sts. FO first leg.
- Repeat for second leg, but do not FO.
Join the legs together to form the shorts.
- Rnd 6: Ch 3, sc around first leg, sc in each of 3 chains, sc around second leg, sc in the other side of 3 chains. 50 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc around. 50 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc around. 50 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc 23, dec, sc 23, dec. 48 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 13: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 14: sc around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 15: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 16: sc around. 30 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Slide the overalls over the body and legs. The green shorts should cover the body from the lower belly to just under the cream collar. Sew the upper edge of the overalls to the body with small hidden stitches.
Rolled Cuffs
Use green yarn. Work around the front loop left on Rnd 4 of each shorts leg.
- Rnd 1: Join yarn to cuff loop, ch 1, sc in each loop around. 22 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 22 sts.
- FO and sew the edge upward slightly to create a thick rolled cuff.
Front Bib
- Row 1: With green yarn, ch 15. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
- Rows 2-8: sc 14. Ch 1, turn after each row.
- Row 9: dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts.
- Row 10: sc 12. FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew the bib to the front center of the overalls. The top should sit just below the cream shirt collar, and the bottom should blend into the rounded belly of the shorts.
Overall Straps
Make two in green.
- Row 1: Ch 25. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 24. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 2: sc 24. FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew each strap from the top corner of the front bib over the shoulder to the back waistband. Sew one small wooden button at the front end of each strap.
Front Pocket
- Row 1: With green yarn, ch 11. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 10. Ch 1, turn.
- Rows 2-6: sc 10. Ch 1, turn after each row.
- Row 7: sc 10. FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew the pocket to the center of the bib. Add a dark brown vertical stitch line down the pocket center if you want it to match the divided pocket look in the image.
Plaid Lines on Overalls
Use dark brown yarn and a yarn needle. These lines create the garden plaid effect. Keep the stitching slightly loose so the overalls do not pucker.
- Make three vertical lines down the front: one center line and one line on each side of the belly.
- Make two vertical lines on each shorts leg.
- Make three horizontal lines around the body: one at the bib base, one across the belly, and one above the cuffs.
- Use small backstitches between crochet rows for clean plaid squares.
- Optional: Add a second fine green line next to the brown lines for a layered fabric look.
Dragon Wings
The wings are pink, triangular, and slightly textured. They attach to the upper back behind the arms. Make two in rose pink. Each wing is worked flat and edged with sc for structure.
- Row 1: Ch 4. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 3. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 2: inc, sc 1, inc. 5 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 3: inc, sc 3, inc. 7 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 4: inc, sc 5, inc. 9 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 5: inc, sc 7, inc. 11 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 6: inc, sc 9, inc. 13 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 7: inc, sc 11, inc. 15 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 8: inc, sc 13, inc. 17 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 9: sc 17. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 10: dec, sc 13, dec. 15 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 11: dec, sc 11, dec. 13 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 12: sc 13. Do not turn.
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Now edge the wing. Ch 1, work sc evenly around the outside edge, placing 3 sc in the outer tip. FO, leaving a long tail.
Wing Ridge
With rose pink or slightly darker pink, surface crochet or backstitch one curved line from the inner top corner to the lower outer tip. Add one short diagonal line from the center ridge to the lower wing edge.
Sew wings to the back at a slight upward angle. The inner top corners should sit near the shoulder line, and the lower corners should sit around the middle of the back.
Small Horn
The horn is pale pink and sits at the top center of the head between the flowers. Use light pink or soft blush yarn.
- Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. 4 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 4 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 6 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc around. 6 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 8 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc around. 8 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Stuff very lightly. Sew the horn to the top of the head, centered slightly forward so it is visible from the front.
Head Flower, Leaf, and Butterfly Accent
The head decorations give the dragon the garden theme shown in the image. Place the yellow flower on the left side of the head, the green leaf near it, and the butterfly on the right side.
Yellow Daisy Flower
- Rnd 1: With dark brown yarn, 6 sc in MR, sl st to join. FO.
- Rnd 2: Join yellow yarn in any stitch. Ch 4, sl st in second ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sl st into same center stitch.
- Repeat the petal sequence 6 times around the center. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Small Green Leaf
- Ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, 3 sc in last ch.
- Work along other side: hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. FO.
Butterfly
Use light pink, peach, and brown. Make two small wings and two larger wings.
- Small wing: 6 sc in MR, sl st to join, FO. Make two.
- Large wing: 6 sc in MR, then inc around for 12 sts, FO. Make two.
- Body: With dark brown, ch 6, sl st in second ch and each ch across. FO.
Sew the two large wings and two small wings to the body. Add two black or dark brown antennae with short chain stitches or embroidery. Sew the butterfly to the right top side of the head.
Sandals
The sandals have tan soles, dark brown straps, and cream flower decorations. They sit under the pink feet and give the dragon the garden outfit style shown in the image.
Tan Soles
Make two in tan.
- Rnd 1: Ch 9. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, sc 6 along other side, inc in last ch. 18 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. 24 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 30 sts.
- Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 30 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew one sole to the bottom of each foot. Keep the wider end at the toe.
Brown Straps
Make four straps in dark brown.
- For each strap, ch 13. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st 12. FO with long tails.
Sew two straps across each foot. One strap crosses near the toes, and one crosses diagonally over the middle of the foot. Keep the straps snug but not tight.
Sandal Flowers
Make two tiny flowers.
- With yellow or brown, 5 sc in MR, sl st to join.
- Join cream yarn. Ch 3, sl st into same stitch. Repeat around for 5 petals.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Sew one flower to the outer side of each sandal strap.
Straw Garden Hat
The hat sits beside the dragon in the image. It has a flat round brim, domed crown, green band, and small carrot decoration. Use tan yarn for the hat.
Hat Crown
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 8: BLO sc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 42 sts.
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Hat Brim
- Rnd 13: FLO sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 14: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 15: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 60 sts.
- Rnd 16: sc 9, inc, repeat around. 66 sts.
- Rnd 17: sc 10, inc, repeat around. 72 sts.
- Rnd 18: sc around. 72 sts.
- FO and weave in the end.
Green Hat Band
- Row 1: With green yarn, ch 45. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 44. FO.
Wrap the band around the crown base and sew it in place. Add two short orange embroidered stitches on the band to match the garden trim.
Hat Carrot
- Rnd 1: With orange, 4 sc in MR. 4 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 4 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 6 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc around. 6 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 8 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc around. 8 sts.
- FO and close the opening.
For leaves, join green yarn at the top, ch 4, sl st back down the chain, repeat 3 times. Sew the carrot to the hat band at an angle.
Garden Tote Bag
The tote is rectangular, tan, and textured, with two handles, a front square patch, and a blue watering can motif. It stands beside the dragon and holds small carrots.
Tote Body
- Rnd 1: With tan yarn, ch 19. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 17, 3 sc in last ch, sc 16 along other side, inc in last ch. 38 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 3: BLO sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 9: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 10: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 11: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 12: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 13: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 14: sc around. 38 sts.
- Rnd 15: sl st around for a firm rim. FO.
Tote Handles
Make two in tan.
- Row 1: Ch 28. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 27. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 2: sc 27. FO with long tails.
Sew one handle to the front and one to the back. Attach each end about 7 stitches apart so the handles stand upright.
Front Patch
- Row 1: With light tan or pale yellow yarn, ch 13. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
- Rows 2-8: sc 12. Ch 1, turn after each row.
- Row 9: sc 12. FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew the patch to the tote front. Use green yarn to make small running stitches around the edge, like a stitched garden label.
Watering Can Motif
Use blue yarn and embroider onto the patch. Make a small oval body with backstitches, then add a short spout to the right, a curved handle to the left, and a little top line. Keep the motif centered.
Carrots for Tote
Make two or three tiny carrots using the same carrot instructions from the hat, but stop after Rnd 5. Add green chain leaves and place them inside the tote.
Small Berry Basket
The berry basket is round, tan, and has a curved handle. It sits near the tote and is filled with red strawberries and green leaves.
Basket Base
- Rnd 1: With tan yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 7: sc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 8: sc around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 9: sl st around. FO.
Basket Handle
- Row 1: Ch 23. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 22. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 2: sc 22. FO with long tails.
Sew the handle to opposite sides of the basket rim. Shape it into a rounded arch.
Strawberries
Make five or six in red.
- Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 5 sts.
- Rnd 3: inc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc around. 10 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc 1, dec, repeat around, ending with sc 1. 7 sts.
- Stuff lightly, close the opening, and FO.
For each green top, join green yarn at the top of the berry, ch 3, sl st back to base, repeat 4 times. Add tiny white or pale yellow seed stitches if desired.
Mini Garden Trowel
The trowel has a brown handle and pale blue triangular blade. It is small enough to rest in front of the dragon.
Trowel Handle
- Rnd 1: With dark brown, 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
- Rnd 2: sc around. 5 sts.
- Rnd 3: sc around. 5 sts.
- Rnd 4: sc around. 5 sts.
- Rnd 5: sc around. 5 sts.
- Rnd 6: sc around. 5 sts.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Trowel Blade
- Row 1: With light blue, ch 3. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 2. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 2: inc, inc. 4 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 3: inc, sc 2, inc. 6 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 4: inc, sc 4, inc. 8 sts. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 5: sc 8. Ch 1, turn.
- Row 6: dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts.
- Edge around with sc, placing 3 sc at the point. FO.
Sew the handle to the wide top of the blade. Add one dark stitch where the handle meets the blade.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
- Sew the neck firmly to the body, then sew the head to the top of the neck. Check that the dragon stands straight.
- Sew the snout to the lower face. Add nostril bumps and small dark nostril stitches.
- Attach the large eyes high on the face. Keep them close together for the sweet garden-dragon expression.
- Sew the horn to the top center of the head.
- Add the yellow flower, green leaf, and butterfly accents around the horn.
- Slide on the overalls and sew them to the body. Add bib, straps, buttons, pocket, cuffs, and plaid lines.
- Place the cream sleeves on the arms, then sew the arms to the body.
- Sew the wings to the back behind the sleeves, angled slightly upward.
- Sew the legs under the body and attach the sandals to the feet.
- Arrange the hat, tote, berry basket, strawberries, carrots, and trowel beside the finished dragon.
Care Notes
Spot clean the dragon with a cool damp cloth. Do not soak if you used wooden buttons, safety eyes, or craft wire. Let the doll air dry fully before storing or displaying.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head: Tall, rounded, pink, with large eyes and soft snout.
- Neck: Long, straight, and firmly stuffed.
- Outfit: Cream shirt, green plaid overalls, front bib, pocket, straps, buttons, and cuffs.
- Back: Two pink wings sewn evenly and angled upward.
- Feet: Pink feet with tan soles, brown straps, and small flowers.
- Accessories: Straw hat, tote with watering can patch, carrots, basket, strawberries, and trowel.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Keep the finished dragon away from strong sunlight to protect the bright pink and green yarn colors. Store it upright if possible, so the neck and wings do not bend over time.
For long-term storage, wrap the doll loosely in tissue paper and place the accessories in a small breathable fabric bag. Avoid plastic bags in humid areas because trapped moisture can affect the stuffing and yarn texture.
If the wings flatten, reshape them gently with your fingers. If the overalls shift, smooth the bib and straps back into place and tighten any loose plaid embroidery with a yarn needle.
