Knitting Tutorial: Botanist Tiger in Fair Isle Vest with Glasses and Explorer Bags – Free Knitting Pattern.

Knitting Tutorial: Botanist Tiger in Fair Isle Vest with Glasses and Explorer Bags – Free Knitting Pattern.

This detailed knitting pattern creates a seated woodland botanist tiger with a rounded striped head, cream muzzle, pink nose, expressive eyes, wire-frame glasses, collared field shirt, mushroom Fair Isle vest, two explorer bags, lace-up botanical shoes, olive field hat, specimen card, magnifying glass, flowers, mushrooms, compass details, and a tiny ladybug.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

The tiger is knitted primarily in the round with separate facial pieces, clothing, footwear, and accessories. The finished toy has a large character head, a compact seated body, long striped limbs, oversized botanical shoes, and removable explorer equipment closely matching the reference design.

  • Skill level: Confident intermediate
  • Finished standing height: Approximately 18 inches or 46 cm
  • Finished seated height: Approximately 14 inches or 36 cm
  • Head width: Approximately 7 inches or 18 cm
  • Body circumference: Approximately 10 inches or 25 cm
  • Construction: Mostly knitted in the round, with several pieces knitted flat
  • Techniques: Increasing, decreasing, short rows, stranded colorwork, duplicate stitch, embroidery, mattress stitch, grafting, and basic wire shaping

Materials

  • DK-weight yarn in warm tiger orange, approximately 170 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in natural cream, approximately 150 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in black, approximately 45 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in dark forest teal, approximately 75 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in golden mustard, approximately 30 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in brick red, approximately 20 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in mushroom brown, approximately 80 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in rust orange, approximately 45 yards
  • DK-weight yarn in olive green, approximately 80 yards
  • Small amounts of pink, gray, blue, yellow, leaf green, white, silver gray, and dark brown yarn
  • US size 2 or 2.75 mm double-pointed needles
  • US size 3 or 3.25 mm straight needles
  • One 16-inch circular needle in US size 2 or 2.75 mm
  • Two glossy black safety eyes, 18 to 20 mm
  • Polyester fiberfill
  • Strong sewing thread
  • Tapestry needle
  • Removable stitch markers
  • Row counter
  • Two 3-quarter-inch wooden buttons for the vest
  • One small wooden button for the botanica bag
  • One small round compass-style charm
  • One small rectangular leather or felt label
  • 18-gauge dark metal craft wire for the glasses
  • 20-gauge silver craft wire for the magnifying glass
  • Clear flexible plastic for optional magnifying glass lenses
  • Plastic canvas or firm felt for stabilizing the bags, hat brim, and specimen card

Gauge

Using US size 2 or 2.75 mm needles, work 26 stitches and 36 rounds in stockinette stitch to measure 4 inches or 10 cm. Gauge should be firm enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through the knitted fabric.

Use a smaller needle when necessary. The exact gauge is less important than creating dense, even fabric. All measurements in this pattern are based on the stated gauge.

Abbreviations

  • CO: Cast on
  • BO: Bind off
  • K: Knit
  • P: Purl
  • St or sts: Stitch or stitches
  • Rnd or rnds: Round or rounds
  • RS: Right side
  • WS: Wrong side
  • Kfb: Knit into the front and back of one stitch
  • M1L: Make one stitch leaning left
  • M1R: Make one stitch leaning right
  • K2tog: Knit two stitches together
  • SSK: Slip, slip, knit
  • Sl: Slip stitch purlwise
  • PM: Place marker
  • SM: Slip marker
  • Rep: Repeat
  • MC: Main color
  • CC: Contrasting color

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Important Construction Notes

Use the orange yarn for the principal tiger sections. Add the black facial and body stripes with a combination of stranded colorwork and duplicate stitch. Keep all carried floats loose enough that the knitted fabric remains flexible and rounded after stuffing.

Stuff each part gradually. Firmly fill the head, muzzle, feet, and lower body. Fill the upper limbs slightly more softly so they remain poseable. Always distribute stuffing into the corners before closing an opening.

When attaching paired pieces, pin both pieces in place before sewing. Check the toy from the front, back, and both sides. Small differences in ear height or eye placement can noticeably change the tiger’s expression.

Tiger Head

The head is worked from the upper center downward. The broad shaping creates the rounded forehead and full cheeks visible in the finished tiger.

  1. With orange yarn and double-pointed needles, CO 8 sts. Divide evenly across four needles and join to work in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Rep K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: Rep K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: Rep K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: Rep K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
  7. Rnd 6: Rep K5, kfb around. 56 sts.
  8. Rnd 7: Rep K6, kfb around. 64 sts.
  9. Rnds 8 to 12: K all sts in orange.
  10. Rnd 13: K14, M1R, K4, M1L, K28, M1R, K4, M1L, K14. 68 sts.
  11. Rnds 14 to 23: K all sts.
  12. Rnd 24: K14, SSK, K4, K2tog, K28, SSK, K4, K2tog, K14. 64 sts.
  13. Rnds 25 to 30: K all sts.
  14. Rnd 31: Rep K6, K2tog around. 56 sts.
  15. Rnd 32: K all sts.
  16. Rnd 33: Rep K5, K2tog around. 48 sts.
  17. Rnd 34: K all sts.
  18. Rnd 35: Rep K4, K2tog around. 40 sts.
  19. Insert the safety eyes temporarily through the knitted fabric at Rnd 23, leaving 12 visible orange stitches between the inner edges. Do not secure them until the eye patches are positioned.
  20. Begin stuffing the forehead and sides. Shape the head into a broad oval rather than a perfect sphere.
  21. Rnd 36: Rep K3, K2tog around. 32 sts.
  22. Rnd 37: Rep K2, K2tog around. 24 sts.
  23. Add the remaining stuffing, keeping the front lower section firm.
  24. Rnd 38: Rep K1, K2tog around. 16 sts.
  25. Rnd 39: K2tog around. 8 sts.
  26. Cut the yarn, thread through the remaining sts, pull tightly, and fasten securely.

Central Forehead Patch

The elongated orange-brown center patch gives the face its distinctive tiger structure. Knit it flat in a slightly darker caramel shade or use the main orange doubled with one strand of brown embroidery yarn.

  1. CO 5 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: K1, M1L, K3, M1R, K1. 7 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: K1, M1L, K5, M1R, K1. 9 sts.
  6. Rows 5 to 14: Work in stockinette stitch.
  7. Row 15: SSK, K5, K2tog. 7 sts.
  8. Row 16: P all sts.
  9. Row 17: SSK, K3, K2tog. 5 sts.
  10. Row 18: P all sts.
  11. Row 19: SSK, K1, K2tog. 3 sts.
  12. BO. Position vertically between the eyes, beginning at Rnd 8 and ending approximately two rounds above the nose.

Cream Eye Patches

Make two mirrored patches. Each patch should curve around the upper and outer side of one eye, creating the broad cream markings shown in the face.

  1. With cream yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K4, Kfb. 8 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: Kfb, K6, Kfb. 10 sts.
  6. Rows 5 to 8: Work in stockinette stitch.
  7. Row 9: SSK, K6, K2tog. 8 sts.
  8. Row 10: P all sts.
  9. Row 11: SSK, K4, K2tog. 6 sts.
  10. BO loosely.
  11. Stretch each patch into a soft oval. Place the lower inner edge approximately one stitch from the central forehead patch.
  12. Insert each safety eye through the center-lower portion of its patch and through the head. Secure the washers inside the head before the head opening is completely closed.

Lower Eye Outlines

Using black yarn and duplicate stitch, work a curved outline below each eye. Begin two stitches inside the eye center, continue underneath the eye for six stitches, and finish three stitches beyond the outer edge.

Add two short black accent rows directly below each eye outline. The upper accent should measure five stitches. The lower accent should measure three stitches and sit one round below the upper accent.

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White Side Face Panels

Make two panels to create the cream side markings extending from the temples toward the jaw.

  1. CO 5 sts with cream yarn.
  2. Row 1: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K3, Kfb. 7 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: Kfb, K5, Kfb. 9 sts.
  6. Rows 5 to 12: Work in stockinette stitch.
  7. Row 13: SSK, K5, K2tog. 7 sts.
  8. Row 14: P all sts.
  9. Row 15: SSK, K3, K2tog. 5 sts.
  10. BO.
  11. Sew one panel along each side of the face. Position the upper edge near the outer eye patch and the lower edge approximately level with the bottom of the muzzle.

Muzzle and Nose

Muzzle Halves

Make two matching cream muzzle pieces. These create the rounded double-cheek structure beneath the nose.

  1. With cream yarn, CO 6 sts.
  2. Row 1 WS: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K4, Kfb. 8 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: Kfb, K6, Kfb. 10 sts.
  6. Rows 5 to 8: Work in stockinette stitch.
  7. Row 9: SSK, K6, K2tog. 8 sts.
  8. Row 10: P all sts.
  9. Row 11: SSK, K4, K2tog. 6 sts.
  10. BO and leave a long sewing tail.
  11. Place the two pieces side by side with their inner edges touching. Sew around each outer edge while adding a small amount of stuffing.
  12. The completed muzzle should measure approximately 3.5 inches or 9 cm across.

Pink Nose

  1. With dusty pink yarn, CO 7 sts.
  2. Row 1: P all sts.
  3. Row 2: SSK, K3, K2tog. 5 sts.
  4. Row 3: P all sts.
  5. Row 4: SSK, K1, K2tog. 3 sts.
  6. Row 5: P3tog. 1 st.
  7. Fasten off. Sew the cast-on edge horizontally across the top center of the muzzle.
  8. Use two strands of darker pink yarn to embroider five short vertical nose ridges from the upper edge toward the point.

Mouth and Whisker Marks

With black yarn, embroider one straight line downward from the nose point for approximately 0.6 inch or 1.5 cm. Divide the line at the bottom and work two gently curved mouth lines, each extending four stitches outward.

Add three small black whisker dots to each muzzle half. Position the dots diagonally, keeping approximately one knitted stitch between them. Do not add long whiskers, since the reference tiger has only subtle embroidered muzzle marks.

Tiger Ears

Outer Ears

Make two. The ears have cream centers and a strong black outer border.

  1. With black yarn, CO 18 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 3: Work in stockinette stitch.
  3. Change to cream.
  4. Rows 4 to 10: Work in stockinette stitch.
  5. Row 11: SSK, K14, K2tog. 16 sts.
  6. Row 12: P all sts.
  7. Row 13: SSK, K12, K2tog. 14 sts.
  8. Row 14: P all sts.
  9. Change to black.
  10. Row 15: SSK, K10, K2tog. 12 sts.
  11. Row 16: P all sts.
  12. Row 17: SSK, K8, K2tog. 10 sts.
  13. Row 18: P all sts.
  14. Row 19: SSK, K6, K2tog. 8 sts.
  15. Row 20: P all sts.
  16. Row 21: SSK, K4, K2tog. 6 sts.
  17. BO.
  18. Fold the cast-on corners slightly toward the center to produce a rounded cup. Sew the lower edge closed.
  19. Attach the ears between Rnds 7 and 16 of the head. Angle each ear outward approximately 25 degrees.

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Exact Tiger Stripe Placement

Use black yarn and duplicate stitch after all facial pieces have been attached. Keep the forehead stripes narrow and pointed. The side stripes should curve slightly toward the eyes and muzzle.

  • Work one central inverted V stripe above the forehead patch, spanning 9 sts and 5 rnds.
  • Work two narrow stripes on each upper forehead side, each 5 sts wide and 3 rnds tall.
  • Work one curved stripe above each cream eye patch, beginning 2 sts from the central patch and extending 8 sts outward.
  • Work two side stripes behind each eye, measuring 6 sts and 4 sts.
  • Work three jaw stripes on each side panel. Make the upper stripe 7 sts, the middle stripe 6 sts, and the lower stripe 4 sts.
  • Outline the lower outer edge of each cream eye patch with one row of black duplicate stitch.
  • Add a narrow black line along the outer edge of each central orange cheek section.

Body

The body is shaped with a rounded lower section and narrower shoulders. It should remain slightly smaller than the head to preserve the character proportions.

  1. With orange yarn, CO 12 sts and divide across double-pointed needles.
  2. Rnd 1: Kfb in every st. 24 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Rep K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: Rep K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: Rep K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
  6. Rnds 5 to 20: K all sts.
  7. Rnd 21: Rep K10, K2tog around. 44 sts.
  8. Rnds 22 to 27: K all sts.
  9. Rnd 28: Rep K9, K2tog around. 40 sts.
  10. Rnds 29 to 33: K all sts.
  11. Rnd 34: Rep K8, K2tog around. 36 sts.
  12. Rnds 35 to 38: K all sts.
  13. Rnd 39: Rep K7, K2tog around. 32 sts.
  14. Stuff the body firmly, keeping the base broad and flat.
  15. Rnd 40: Rep K2, K2tog around. 24 sts.
  16. Rnd 41: Rep K1, K2tog around. 16 sts.
  17. BO the remaining sts loosely. This opening becomes the neck attachment area.

Arms

Make two identical arms. The cream paws are rounded, while the orange forearms contain three black tiger stripes.

  1. With cream yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Rep K3, kfb around. 20 sts.
  4. Rnds 3 to 8: K all sts.
  5. Rnd 9: Rep K3, K2tog around. 16 sts.
  6. Change to orange.
  7. Rnds 10 to 14: K all sts.
  8. Change to black.
  9. Rnds 15 and 16: K all sts.
  10. Change to orange.
  11. Rnds 17 to 21: K all sts.
  12. Change to black.
  13. Rnds 22 and 23: K all sts.
  14. Change to orange.
  15. Rnds 24 to 28: K all sts.
  16. Change to black.
  17. Rnds 29 and 30: K all sts.
  18. Change to orange.
  19. Rnds 31 to 34: K all sts.
  20. Stuff the paw firmly and the upper arm lightly.
  21. Rnd 35: Rep K2, K2tog around. 12 sts.
  22. BO and leave a long tail.

Legs

Make two legs. Each leg is orange with two strong black stripes above the shoe line.

  1. With orange yarn, CO 20 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnds 1 to 8: K all sts.
  3. Change to black.
  4. Rnds 9 and 10: K all sts.
  5. Change to orange.
  6. Rnds 11 to 17: K all sts.
  7. Change to black.
  8. Rnds 18 and 19: K all sts.
  9. Change to orange.
  10. Rnds 20 to 28: K all sts.
  11. Rnd 29: Rep K3, K2tog around. 16 sts.
  12. Rnds 30 to 32: K all sts.
  13. Stuff the leg firmly, leaving the uppermost inch slightly softer.
  14. BO and leave a long sewing tail.

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Feet

The feet are knitted separately and attached at a right angle to the legs. This creates the forward-facing seated pose shown in the image.

  1. With orange yarn, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnd 1: Kfb in every st. 24 sts.
  3. Rnds 2 to 5: K all sts.
  4. Rnd 6: K6, M1R, K12, M1L, K6. 26 sts.
  5. Rnds 7 to 13: K all sts.
  6. Rnd 14: K6, SSK, K10, K2tog, K6. 24 sts.
  7. Rnd 15: Rep K4, K2tog around. 20 sts.
  8. Stuff firmly, concentrating the stuffing in the front toe.
  9. Rnd 16: K2tog around. 10 sts.
  10. Cut yarn, draw through the remaining sts, and secure.
  11. Sew the closed heel end to the lower leg at a 90-degree angle.

Cream Field Shirt

Shirt Body

The shirt is knitted flat in three sections and sewn around the body. It has short sleeves, a folded collar, and a small center-front placket visible above the vest.

Shirt Back

  1. With cream yarn and straight needles, CO 30 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Work K1, P1 ribbing.
  3. Rows 5 to 32: Work in stockinette stitch.
  4. Row 33: BO 4 sts, K to end.
  5. Row 34: BO 4 sts, P to end. 22 sts.
  6. Rows 35 to 42: Work in stockinette stitch.
  7. BO all sts.

Shirt Fronts

Make two mirrored pieces.

  1. CO 16 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Work K1, P1 ribbing.
  3. Rows 5 to 28: Work in stockinette stitch.
  4. At the armhole edge, BO 4 sts once. 12 sts remain.
  5. Work 5 more rows in stockinette stitch.
  6. At the neck edge, BO 3 sts once.
  7. Decrease 1 st at the neck edge on the next 3 RS rows. 6 sts remain.
  8. Continue until the front matches the back length. BO.

Short Sleeves

Make two.

  1. CO 26 sts with cream yarn.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Work K1, P1 ribbing.
  3. Rows 5 to 14: Work in stockinette stitch.
  4. Row 15: SSK, K22, K2tog. 24 sts.
  5. Row 16: P all sts.
  6. Row 17: SSK, K20, K2tog. 22 sts.
  7. Row 18: P all sts.
  8. BO all sts.
  9. Sew each sleeve seam. Position the lower ribbed edge around the upper arm and stitch the sleeve cap into the shirt armhole.

Shirt Collar

  1. CO 42 sts with cream yarn.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
  3. Row 5: K2tog, K38, SSK. 40 sts.
  4. Row 6: K all sts.
  5. Row 7: K2tog, K36, SSK. 38 sts.
  6. Rows 8 to 10: K all sts.
  7. BO loosely.
  8. Sew the inner long edge around the neckline. Fold the pointed ends downward over the vest neckline.

Front Placket

  1. CO 5 sts.
  2. Work 16 rows in garter stitch.
  3. BO.
  4. Sew vertically at the center front, beginning at the neck opening.
  5. Embroider two small cream button shapes or attach two miniature wooden buttons.

Dark Teal Fair Isle Vest

The vest is worked flat with a deep V-neck. Its colorwork includes mustard leaf shapes, cream decorative bands, and brick-red mushrooms with cream stems.

Vest Back

  1. With dark teal yarn, CO 32 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 5: Work K1, P1 ribbing.
  3. Row 6: K all sts.
  4. Row 7: P all sts.
  5. Row 8 colorwork: Rep K1 teal, K1 mustard across.
  6. Row 9: P all sts in teal.
  7. Row 10: Rep K3 teal, K1 cream across.
  8. Row 11: P all sts in teal.
  9. Rows 12 to 15: Work stockinette in teal.
  10. Row 16 mushroom stems: K3 teal, K2 cream, K5 teal, K2 cream, K6 teal, K2 cream, K5 teal, K2 cream, K3 teal.
  11. Row 17: P the colors as established.
  12. Row 18 mushroom caps: K2 teal, K4 brick red, K3 teal, K4 brick red, K4 teal, K4 brick red, K3 teal, K4 brick red, K2 teal.
  13. Row 19: P the colors as established, adding one cream st near the center of each red cap.
  14. Row 20: K all sts in teal.
  15. Rows 21 and 22: Work stockinette in teal.
  16. Row 23: Rep K2 teal, K1 mustard, K1 teal across.
  17. Row 24: P all sts in teal.
  18. Rows 25 to 30: Work stockinette in teal.
  19. Row 31: BO 4 sts, K to end.
  20. Row 32: BO 4 sts, P to end. 24 sts.
  21. Rows 33 to 42: Work stockinette in teal.
  22. BO all sts.

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Left Vest Front

  1. With teal yarn, CO 17 sts.
  2. Work Rows 1 to 24 following the same colorwork sequence as the back, centering one cream-and-red mushroom across sts 6 to 12.
  3. Row 25 RS: K to last 2 sts, K2tog. 16 sts.
  4. Row 26: P all sts.
  5. Repeat Rows 25 and 26 five more times. 10 sts remain.
  6. At the armhole edge, BO 4 sts once. 6 sts remain.
  7. Continue in teal until the front equals the back length.
  8. BO.

Right Vest Front

  1. Work as for the left front, reversing all shaping.
  2. On each RS shaping row, begin with SSK instead of ending with K2tog.
  3. Place the centered mushroom to mirror the left front.

Vest Edging and Buttonholes

  1. Sew the shoulder and side seams.
  2. With teal yarn, pick up 82 sts around both front edges and the back neckline.
  3. Rows 1 to 4: Work K1, P1 ribbing.
  4. On Row 2, form two buttonholes on the right front by working yarn over, K2tog.
  5. Place the upper buttonhole approximately 1 inch or 2.5 cm below the V point.
  6. Place the second buttonhole approximately 1 inch or 2.5 cm below the first.
  7. BO in ribbing. Sew two wooden buttons to the left front.
  8. Pick up 44 sts around each armhole, work 3 rounds of K1, P1 ribbing, and BO loosely.

Additional Fair Isle Details

  • Duplicate-stitch four mustard leaf shapes across the upper chest, each measuring 3 sts wide and 5 rows tall.
  • Add a narrow cream zigzag band beneath the leaf motifs.
  • Place two brick-red mushrooms on each front and four across the back.
  • Use one cream duplicate stitch on each red cap to reproduce the small mushroom spots.
  • Add tiny mustard crosses between the mushrooms, each formed from five duplicate stitches.

Lace-Up Botanical Shoes

Shoe Soles

Make two. Use mushroom brown or natural beige yarn held double.

  1. CO 10 sts.
  2. Row 1: K all sts.
  3. Row 2: Kfb, K8, Kfb. 12 sts.
  4. Rows 3 to 24: K all sts.
  5. Row 25: SSK, K8, K2tog. 10 sts.
  6. Row 26: K all sts.
  7. BO.
  8. The finished sole should measure approximately 5.25 inches or 13.5 cm long.

Shoe Sidewalls

  1. With beige yarn, pick up 64 sts evenly around one sole.
  2. Join in the round.
  3. Rnds 1 to 4: P all sts to create a textured rope-like edge.
  4. Rnd 5: K all sts.
  5. BO loosely.
  6. Insert one foot into the sole opening and sew the top edge to the foot, leaving the upper orange toe visible.

Toe Rope Trim

  1. Make a 3-stitch knitted cord approximately 17 inches or 43 cm long.
  2. Sew the cord around the outer sole edge.
  3. Begin at the back heel and keep the cord slightly stretched as it is attached.
  4. Repeat for the second shoe.

Shoe Laces

  1. Make four beige knitted cords, each approximately 11 inches or 28 cm long.
  2. Secure two cords to each shoe near the sidewalls.
  3. Cross the cords three times over the orange upper foot.
  4. Tie a loose bow at the front ankle.
  5. Add one short horizontal cord across the toe to match the reinforced lace detail.

Shoe Leaves and Chanterelle Mushrooms

Make two leaf clusters and two golden chanterelle mushrooms, one set for each shoe.

Small Green Leaves

  1. CO 3 sts with leaf green yarn.
  2. Row 1: K1, M1L, K1, M1R, K1. 5 sts.
  3. Row 2: P all sts.
  4. Row 3: SSK, K1, K2tog. 3 sts.
  5. Row 4: P3tog. 1 st.
  6. Fasten off. Make four leaves in total.

Golden Chanterelle

  1. With golden yellow yarn, CO 5 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rnds 1 to 7: K all sts for the stem.
  3. Rnd 8: Kfb in every st. 10 sts.
  4. Rnd 9: Rep K1, kfb around. 15 sts.
  5. Rnd 10: K all sts.
  6. Rnd 11: Rep K1, K2tog around. 10 sts.
  7. Cut yarn, draw through the remaining sts, and flatten the cap gently.
  8. Sew one mushroom and two leaves to the outer side of each shoe.

Large Mushroom Explorer Satchel

The larger crossbody satchel is worked in mushroom-brown yarn. It includes a rounded flap, textured edging, a cream-and-rust mushroom applique, and a long strap.

Bag Front

  1. CO 28 sts with mushroom-brown yarn.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
  3. Rows 5 to 34: Work in stockinette stitch.
  4. Rows 35 to 38: K all sts.
  5. BO.

Bag Back and Flap

  1. CO 28 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 38: Work as for the front.
  3. Rows 39 to 48: Work in stockinette stitch.
  4. Row 49: SSK, K24, K2tog. 26 sts.
  5. Row 50: P all sts.
  6. Row 51: SSK, K22, K2tog. 24 sts.
  7. Row 52: P all sts.
  8. Row 53: SSK, K20, K2tog. 22 sts.
  9. Rows 54 and 55: K all sts.
  10. BO.

Bag Gusset

  1. CO 7 sts.
  2. Work 86 rows in garter stitch.
  3. BO.
  4. Sew the gusset around both sides and the bottom of the front panel.
  5. Attach the back panel to the remaining gusset edge.
  6. Insert a plastic-canvas rectangle measuring approximately 4.5 by 3.5 inches inside the bag for structure.

Satchel Strap

  1. CO 7 sts with mushroom-brown yarn.
  2. Work 180 rows in seed stitch by alternating K1, P1 and reversing the sequence on every row.
  3. BO.
  4. The finished strap should measure approximately 30 inches or 76 cm.
  5. Sew one end to each side of the bag with a reinforced square of backstitch.

Mushroom Applique

  1. For the cream stem, CO 5 sts and work 8 rows in stockinette stitch. BO.
  2. For the rust cap, CO 10 sts.
  3. Row 1: P all sts.
  4. Row 2: Kfb, K8, Kfb. 12 sts.
  5. Rows 3 and 4: Work in stockinette stitch.
  6. Row 5: SSK, K8, K2tog. 10 sts.
  7. Row 6: P all sts.
  8. Row 7: SSK, K6, K2tog. 8 sts.
  9. BO.
  10. Sew the cap over the upper portion of the stem.
  11. Embroider five small cream French knots across the mushroom cap.
  12. Attach the mushroom to the left side of the satchel flap.

Rust Botanica Field Bag

The second bag is a smaller square satchel in rust orange. It has a brown strap, a rectangular botanical label, a small wooden button, and a round compass-style decoration.

Bag Panels

  1. With rust yarn, CO 24 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 30: Work in stockinette stitch.
  3. Rows 31 to 34: K all sts.
  4. BO. Make two identical panels.

Bag Gusset

  1. CO 5 sts with rust yarn.
  2. Work 76 rows in garter stitch.
  3. BO.
  4. Sew the gusset around three sides of the front panel.
  5. Attach the back panel and leave the upper edge open.

Bag Strap

  1. CO 6 sts with medium brown yarn.
  2. Work 170 rows in seed stitch.
  3. BO.
  4. Sew securely to the upper side edges of the bag.
  5. Position this bag across the body in the opposite direction from the larger satchel.

Botanica Label

  1. Cut a small tan felt or leather rectangle measuring 2.2 by 0.65 inches.
  2. Embroider or write the word BOTANICA in dark brown capital letters.
  3. Sew the label horizontally to the lower center of the front panel.
  4. Attach one miniature wooden button to the upper-left corner.
  5. Attach one round compass charm to the upper-right corner.

Olive Botanist Field Hat

Hat Crown

  1. With olive yarn, CO 8 sts and divide across double-pointed needles.
  2. Rnd 1: Kfb in every st. 16 sts.
  3. Rnd 2: Rep K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
  4. Rnd 3: Rep K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
  5. Rnd 4: Rep K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
  6. Rnd 5: Rep K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
  7. Rnds 6 to 12: K all sts.
  8. Rnd 13: Rep K10, K2tog around. 44 sts.
  9. Rnds 14 to 20: K all sts.
  10. Rnds 21 to 24: Work K1, P1 ribbing.
  11. Do not bind off.

Hat Brim

  1. Rnd 25: Rep K1, M1L around. 88 sts.
  2. Rnds 26 to 34: K all sts.
  3. Rnd 35: Rep K9, K2tog around. 80 sts.
  4. Rnds 36 and 37: K all sts.
  5. BO loosely.
  6. Insert a ring of firm felt or plastic canvas beneath the brim.
  7. Fold the final two rounds inward and stitch them to the underside to conceal the stabilizer.

Hat Band and Raised Branch Motif

  1. Make a 3-stitch brown knitted cord approximately 16 inches or 41 cm long.
  2. Wrap the cord around the base of the crown and stitch it in place.
  3. Use duplicate stitch to create one winding olive branch motif on the front-left portion of the crown.
  4. Form the branch from a central curved line 10 sts long and six paired leaf shapes.

Hat Compass and Ladybug

  • Attach a small round compass charm above the right side of the hatband.
  • For the ladybug, CO 4 sts with red yarn and join in the round.
  • Work 3 rounds, then K2tog around and close.
  • Embroider one black center line and four black spots.
  • Add a tiny black yarn head and sew the ladybug near the brim edge.

Wire-Frame Glasses

The glasses are an important feature and should sit low enough to reveal the cream eye patches. Use smooth dark metal craft wire and file or cover all cut ends.

  1. Cut one 19-inch or 48 cm length of 18-gauge wire.
  2. Beginning 7 inches from one end, form a rounded rectangular lens measuring 2.4 inches wide and 2 inches high.
  3. Bend a 0.8-inch center bridge.
  4. Form the second matching lens.
  5. Bend the remaining wire backward at both outer corners to create two temple arms.
  6. Each temple arm should measure approximately 3.5 inches.
  7. Curve the final half inch downward behind each ear.
  8. Wrap the wire ends with dark thread and a small amount of fabric-safe glue.
  9. Add one thin horizontal wire across the upper bridge area to reproduce the double-bridge design.

Ear Flowers

Create one small blue flower and one smaller yellow flower. Attach them beside the tiger’s left ear.

Blue Flower

  1. With blue yarn, CO 15 sts.
  2. BO all sts on the next row.
  3. Roll the narrow strip into a small spiral.
  4. Secure the center with matching yarn.
  5. Make three small knitted petals by CO 3 sts, K one row, and BO.
  6. Attach the petals around the spiral center.

Yellow Flower

  1. CO 10 sts with yellow yarn.
  2. BO on the next row.
  3. Roll tightly and secure.
  4. Sew the yellow flower slightly below and in front of the blue flower.

Botanical Specimen Card

The small field card is cream with a gray-green border and several embroidered plant illustrations. It rests beside the hat in the completed display.

  1. With cream yarn, CO 28 sts.
  2. Rows 1 to 36: Work in stockinette stitch.
  3. BO.
  4. Make a second identical panel.
  5. Cut a firm felt rectangle slightly smaller than the knitted panels.
  6. Place the felt between the panels and seam all four edges.
  7. With muted green yarn, embroider a rectangular border two stitches inside the outer edge.
  8. Embroider three plant samples across the card.
  9. For the first sample, work a green stem 8 rows tall and add four narrow leaves.
  10. For the second sample, work a yellow flower with five petals on a green stem.
  11. For the third sample, embroider a pale blue circular botanical sketch with two green leaves.
  12. Add two short gray lines beneath each sample to represent specimen notes.

Magnifying Glass

  1. Cut a 10-inch or 25 cm length of silver 20-gauge wire.
  2. Form a circle approximately 2.3 inches or 6 cm in diameter.
  3. Twist the remaining wire together beneath the circle to create the handle core.
  4. Cut a clear plastic circle slightly smaller than the wire ring and secure it with transparent craft adhesive.
  5. With dark brown yarn, make a 4-stitch knitted cord approximately 4 inches or 10 cm long.
  6. Slide the cord over the wire handle or wrap it tightly around the wire.
  7. Sew the knitted handle closed and secure it beneath the silver ring.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

  1. Sew the head centered over the body neck opening. Use two complete circles of strong backstitch.
  2. Attach the legs to the lower front sides of the body, spacing them approximately 1.5 inches apart.
  3. Angle the legs forward so the tiger sits naturally on a bench or shelf.
  4. Attach the arms below the shoulder line. Angle the paws slightly inward toward the bags.
  5. Dress the body in the cream shirt before adding the vest.
  6. Position the shirt collar above the vest neckline and tack the collar points down invisibly.
  7. Place the large mushroom satchel across the left hip.
  8. Place the rust botanica bag slightly higher on the right side.
  9. Add the glasses and secure each temple arm behind an ear with matching thread.
  10. Recheck the muzzle, nose, mouth, eye patches, ears, and stripe symmetry.

Add one tiny cream catchlight to the upper-left portion of each black eye using a single embroidery stitch. Brush the cream muzzle lightly with a clean soft toothbrush to create the subtle fuzzy texture seen in the finished tiger.

Care Notes

  • Keep the tiger away from open flames, high heat, and prolonged direct sunlight.
  • This design contains wire, safety eyes, small buttons, and decorative charms. It is intended as a collectible display piece rather than a toy for children under three years old.
  • Support the head and both bags when moving the finished tiger.
  • Do not lift the tiger by the glasses, hat, flowers, arms, or bag straps.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Confirm that both eyes are level and securely fastened.
  • Check that the muzzle is centered directly below the forehead patch.
  • Confirm that the black facial stripes are balanced on both sides.
  • Check that the ears tilt outward evenly.
  • Verify that the shirt collar remains visible above the vest.
  • Confirm that all mushroom motifs have cream stems and spotted red caps.
  • Check the laces, shoe mushrooms, bag straps, buttons, charms, and glasses for secure attachment.
  • Confirm that the tiger sits steadily without leaning to either side.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Remove surface dust with a soft cosmetic brush or a handheld vacuum covered with a fine mesh cloth. Work gently around the Fair Isle floats, glasses, flowers, mushroom appliques, shoe laces, and embroidered specimen details.

For a small spot, dampen a white cloth with cool water and a tiny amount of mild wool detergent. Blot the area without rubbing. Use a second damp cloth to remove detergent residue, then allow the piece to air-dry completely.

Do not machine wash, tumble dry, bleach, iron, or submerge the completed tiger. Water may affect the stabilizers, craft wire, leather label, compass decorations, wooden buttons, safety eyes, and magnifying-glass insert.

For long-term storage, wrap the tiger loosely in acid-free tissue and place it in a breathable container. Store the glasses separately when necessary to prevent bending. Avoid sealed plastic bags, damp basements, hot attics, and areas exposed to insects or strong household odors.

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