The Potted Marigold Bunny – Knitting

Welcome to the warm, sun-drenched garden of the Potted Marigold Bunny. This project celebrates the golden hour of a late summer afternoon, where the soil is warm and the scent of marigolds fills the air. This charming rabbit character is a dedicated gardener, embodying the joy of getting one’s hands dirty and watching nature thrive.

She features a unique golden-mustard coat that sets her apart from traditional bunnies, radiating warmth and happiness. Her outfit is practical yet undeniably stylish for a day in the dirt. She wears a rust-colored dress with a playful tiered ruffle skirt that mimics the layers of a flower petal.

To keep the chill off her shoulders as the sun sets, she wears a sturdy, earth-toned brown cardigan. Her look is completed with a classic gingham headscarf tied neatly under her chin, protecting her ears from the breeze. She carries a terracotta pot overflowing with bright orange marigolds, a garden trowel, and has even befriended a little black beetle.

To ensure your finished bunny achieves the heirloom-quality finish seen in the photos, we highly recommend visiting your favorite local yarn shop to select the best materials. You will want to buy merino wool yarn in a rich golden mustard shade for the bunny’s skin to create a warm, natural texture that is durable yet soft to the touch.

For the intricate clothing, such as the ruffled dress and the gingham kerchief, consider purchasing cotton yarn or a sport-weight wool blend to ensure the stitch definition is crisp. Before you begin, take a moment to check your knitting supplies; ensure you have a set of smooth bamboo knitting needles, a tapestry needle for assembly, and plenty of premium fiberfill. If you are ready to dig into this creative journey, check your knitting bag for stitch markers and let’s cast on.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview and Design Philosophy

The Potted Marigold Bunny stands approximately 14 inches (35 cm) tall. The construction is designed to be robust, with the body and head knitted in pieces and seamed to allow for precise shaping of the curves. This method ensures the doll maintains its posture over time, whether she is standing on a garden bench or sitting on a shelf.

The wardrobe is a study in rustic charm and texture. The dress features a tiered skirt construction, adding volume and movement. The headscarf uses a simple colorwork technique to achieve the gingham check, adding a touch of vintage country style.

The accessories are intricate and narrative-driven. The potted plant is a structural marvel, using a cardboard base to stay upright. The marigold flowers use textured stitches to create their pom-pom like appearance. The little beetle adds a touch of whimsy and life to the scene.

Materials and Tools Checklist

• Yarn A (Bunny Skin): 100g DK weight yarn in Golden Mustard or Ochre.
• Yarn B (Dress & Shoes): 80g DK weight yarn in Rust, Burnt Orange, or Terracotta.
• Yarn C (Cardigan): 60g DK weight yarn in Dark Brown or Bark.
• Yarn D (Headscarf): 30g DK weight yarn in White and Rust (for the check pattern).
• Yarn E (Marigold Flowers): Scraps of Bright Orange and Yellow.
• Yarn F (Leaves & Stems): 20g DK weight yarn in Deep Green.
• Yarn G (Pot): 30g DK weight yarn in Clay or Brick Red.
• Yarn H (Beetle/Soil): Small amount of Black and Dark Brown.
• Needles: US 3 (3.25mm) straight needles for the main body and clothing.
• Needles (Detailing): US 2 (2.75mm) for the miniature accessories like the beetle and flowers.
• Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle, polyester fiberfill, two 9mm safety eyes (bunny), embroidery floss (dark brown, black), stitch holders, small wooden buttons, cardboard (for the pot base), craft wire (optional for trowel handle).

Gauge and Tension

The target gauge is 24 stitches and 30 rows equal to 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch. A firm gauge is essential for the stuffed components. If your fabric is too loose, the stuffing will show through, detracting from the professional finish.

If you are a loose knitter, consider sizing down your needles. Consistency is key when making matching limbs to ensure the bunny stands evenly and the clothes fit perfectly.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• K: Knit
• P: Purl
• Sts: Stitches
• Inc: Increase (Knit into the front and back of the stitch – KFB).
• Dec: Decrease (Knit 2 together – K2tog).
• SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit (decrease).
• RS: Right Side
• WS: Wrong Side
• Stockinette Stitch: Knit on the Right Side, Purl on the Wrong Side.
• Garter Stitch: Knit every row.

Part 1: Constructing the Golden Bunny Body

We begin the construction by knitting the legs individually. This provides a solid foundation for the doll to stand or sit. We will then join them to form the torso and continue seamlessly into the head.

Legs (Make 2)

Using Yarn A (Golden Mustard) and US 3 needles, cast on 12 stitches. Leave a long tail for seaming later. This tail will be used to sew up the foot and the back of the leg.

• Row 1: Purl all stitches across the row. This sets up the wrong side.
• Row 2 (Increase): Knit into the front and back of every stitch. You will now have 24 stitches. This rapid increase creates the base of the foot pad.
• Row 3: Purl all stitches. Keep your tension even to avoid gaps.
• Row 4 (Increase): *Knit 1, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end of the row. (36 sts). This widens the foot to create a cute, chubby paw.
• Rows 5-9: Work in stockinette stitch starting with a Purl row. This smooth section forms the height of the foot.
• Row 10 (Shape Foot): Knit 12, (K2tog) 6 times, Knit 12. This creates the instep of the foot, curving the fabric to form the toe area. (30 sts)
• Row 11: Purl all stitches.
• Row 12 (Shape Foot): Knit 9, (K2tog) 6 times, Knit 9. (24 sts). The foot is now taking its final shape.
• Row 13: Purl all stitches.
• Row 14 (Ankle Shaping): Knit 8, (K2tog) 4 times, Knit 8. (20 sts). This tightens the ankle to define the leg.
• Rows 15-42: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This long section forms the leg. Ensure your tension remains even here so both legs are identical in length.

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Break the yarn for the first leg and place the stitches on a stitch holder or a spare piece of yarn. Knit the second leg in the exact same manner, but do not break the yarn. We will use this working yarn to join the two pieces together.

Torso and Head

With the second leg on your needle, cast on 2 stitches (this forms the crotch space), then knit across the 20 stitches of the first leg from the holder.

• Row 43: You should now have 42 stitches on your needle. Ensure both legs are facing the same way (Right Side facing you).
• Row 44: Purl all stitches. Treat the new cast-on stitches carefully so they don’t stretch.
• Row 45 (Hip Increase): Knit 10, Inc, Knit 20, Inc, Knit 10. (44 sts). This increase helps shape the bunny’s bottom.
• Row 46: Purl all stitches.
• Row 47 (Hip Increase): Knit 11, Inc, Knit 20, Inc, Knit 11. (46 sts).
• Rows 48-68: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This forms the tummy area. Stuffing this area firmly later is key to a good shape.
• Row 69 (Decrease): *Knit 8, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to last 6 stitches, Knit 6. (42 sts). We are now beginning to shape the chest.
• Row 70: Purl all stitches.
• Row 71 (Decrease): *Knit 5, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (36 sts).
• Rows 72-76: Work straight in stockinette stitch to elongate the upper body slightly.
• Row 77 (Decrease): *Knit 4, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (30 sts).
• Row 78: Purl all stitches.
• Row 79 (Decrease): *Knit 3, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (24 sts).
• Row 80: Purl all stitches. This row marks the neck.

We will now transition directly into the head. It is important to stuff the neck very firmly during assembly to prevent the head from wobbling.

• Row 81 (Increase): *Knit 1, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end. (36 sts). The head begins to widen immediately.
• Row 82: Purl all stitches.
• Row 83 (Increase): *Knit 2, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end. (48 sts).
• Row 84: Purl all stitches.
• Row 85 (Increase): *Knit 7, Inc*, repeat from * to * to the end. (54 sts). This gives the bunny lovely chubby cheeks.
• Rows 86-106: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This height is necessary to give the bunny its classic round face and room for eye placement.
• Row 107 (Decrease): *Knit 7, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (48 sts). We begin closing the top of the head.
• Row 108: Purl all stitches.
• Row 109 (Decrease): *Knit 6, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (42 sts).
• Row 110: Purl all stitches.
• Row 111 (Decrease): *Knit 5, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (36 sts).
• Row 112: Purl all stitches.
• Row 113 (Decrease): *Knit 4, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (30 sts).
• Row 114 (Decrease): *Knit 3, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (24 sts).
• Row 115 (Decrease): *Knit 2, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (18 sts).
• Row 116 (Decrease): *Knit 1, K2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end. (12 sts).
• Row 117: K2tog across the row. (6 sts).

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining loops using a tapestry needle, pull tight to close the top of the head, and secure with a knot.

Arms (Make 2)

Using Yarn A (Golden Mustard), cast on 10 stitches.

• Row 1: Purl all stitches.
• Row 2 (Increase): Increase in every stitch. (20 sts).
• Rows 3-26: Work in stockinette stitch. This forms the length of the arm.
• Row 27: *Knit 2, K2tog*, repeat to the end. (15 sts). Shaping the shoulder.
• Row 28: Purl all stitches.
• Row 29: K2tog across to the last stitch, Knit 1. (8 sts).

Cut yarn, draw through stitches, and sew the side seam. Stuff the hand area firmly and the upper arm lightly to allow movement.

Ears (Make 2)

The ears are long and floppy, adding to the bunny’s gentle character. Using Yarn A, cast on 14 stitches.

• Rows 1-42: Work in stockinette stitch. You can make these longer or shorter depending on your preference.
• Row 43 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 10, K2tog. (12 sts). Tapering the tip.
• Row 44: Purl all stitches.
• Row 45 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 8, K2tog. (10 sts).
• Row 46: Purl all stitches.
• Row 47 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 6, K2tog. (8 sts).
• Row 48: Purl all stitches.
• Row 49 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 4, K2tog. (6 sts).
• Row 50: Purl all stitches.
• Row 51 (Decrease): SSK, Knit 2, K2tog. (4 sts).
• Row 52: K2tog twice. Fasten off.

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Part 2: The Tiered Rust Dress

This dress is designed to look like a tiered prairie skirt. It features a fitted bodice and two distinct ruffles on the skirt.

Skirt Construction (Bottom Up)

We will knit the main underskirt first, then pick up stitches for the ruffles, or you can knit the ruffles separately and sew them on. We will knit them separately for easier assembly.

Main Skirt Lining: Using Yarn B (Rust), cast on 50 stitches.

• Rows 1-30: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 31 (Waist Decrease): *Knit 3, K2tog*, repeat to end. (40 sts)
• Row 32: Purl.

Upper Bodice:

• Rows 33-40: Work in K1, P1 Ribbing to create a snug waistband.
• Row 41 (Armhole Shaping): Knit 6, cast off 4, Knit 20, cast off 4, Knit 6.
• Row 42: Purl 6, cast on 4, Purl 20, cast on 4, Purl 6.
• Rows 43-48: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 49: Cast off.

The Ruffles (Make 2)

Bottom Ruffle: Using Yarn B, cast on 100 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit in Garter Stitch (no rolling).
• Rows 5-12: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 13: *Knit 2tog* across the row to gather. (50 sts).
• Row 14: Cast off. Sew this ruffle to the bottom edge of the skirt lining.

Top Ruffle: Using Yarn B, cast on 90 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit in Garter Stitch.
• Rows 5-10: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 11: *Knit 2tog* across the row to gather. (45 sts).
• Row 12: Cast off. Sew this ruffle halfway up the skirt lining, overlapping the bottom ruffle slightly.

Sew the back seam of the skirt up to the waist. Leave the bodice open and attach a small snap fastener.

Part 3: The Garden Cardigan

The cardigan is knitted in Yarn C (Dark Brown) and is a simple, classic raglan shape to keep the bunny warm.

Back Panel

Cast on 34 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit every row (Garter Stitch) for the hem.
• Rows 5-20: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 21 (Armhole): Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. (28 sts)
• Rows 23-34: Work straight in stockinette stitch.
• Row 35: Cast off all stitches.

Left Front

Cast on 19 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit every row.
• Rows 5-20: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 21: Cast off 3 stitches at the armhole edge.
• Rows 22-28: Work straight.
• Row 29 (Neck): Cast off 5 stitches at the neck edge.
• Row 30: Purl.
• Row 31: Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge.
• Row 35: Cast off remaining stitches.

Right Front

Work as for the Left Front, reversing the shaping for the armhole and neck.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Cast on 22 stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit every row.
• Rows 5-20: Work in stockinette stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of Row 8 and 16. (26 sts)
• Row 21: Cast off.

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Finishing: Sew the cardigan pieces together. Pick up stitches along the front opening and knit 3 rows of garter stitch for a button band. Sew on 3 small wooden buttons.

Part 4: The Gingham Headscarf

This accessory mimics a vintage kerchief. It features a check pattern created by carrying two colors.

Using Yarn B (Rust) and Yarn F (White).

• Cast On: 3 stitches using Rust.
• Row 1: Increase in first stitch, knit to end.
• Gingham Pattern:
  • Work in Stockinette stitch.
  • Color Chart: Knit 3 stitches Rust, Knit 3 stitches White. Carry the yarn loosely across the back.
  • On the next row (Purl), keep the colors consistent (Purl 3 White over White, 3 Rust over Rust).
  • After 4 rows, switch the checkerboard: Knit 3 White over Rust, Knit 3 Rust over White.
• Shaping: Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of every row while maintaining the check pattern until the triangle is wide enough to cover the bunny’s head (approx 60 stitches wide).
• Border: Knit 4 rows in Garter Stitch using just Rust yarn. Cast off loosely.
• Ties: Braided yarn tails can be attached to the corners to tie under the chin.

Part 5: Rust Mary Jane Shoes

Using Yarn B (Rust), cast on 12 stitches.

• Sole: Knit 10 rows in Garter Stitch.
• Upper: Pick up 30 stitches around three sides of the sole rectangle.
• Rows 1-5: Work in stockinette stitch.
• Row 6 (Toe Shaping): Knit 10, (K2tog) 5 times, Knit 10. (25 sts)
• Row 7: Purl all stitches.
• Row 8 (Toe Shaping): Knit 10, (K2tog) 3 times, Knit 9. (22 sts)
• Row 9: Cast off.

Sew the back heel seam. Crochet a small strap and sew a tiny wooden button on the side.

Part 6: Gardening Accessories

The Terracotta Pot

This needs to be structured to stand up. Using Yarn G (Clay/Brick Red).

• Base: Cast on 8 stitches. Increase to 24 stitches to make a flat circle.
• Walls: Work in stockinette stitch for 2 inches.
• Rim: Purl 1 row (turning ridge). Knit 3 rows. Cast off. Fold the rim down.
• Soil: Knit a flat circle in Dark Brown (Yarn H). Sew it inside the pot near the rim, stuffing the space beneath it firmly. Add a cardboard circle at the very bottom for stability.

The Marigolds

Using Yarn E (Orange/Yellow) and Yarn F (Green).

• Flowers: Cast on 4 stitches. Knit into the front and back of every stitch (8 sts). Purl row.
  • *Knit 1, Cast on 3, Cast off 3* (to make a loop petal), repeat across.
  • Break yarn and draw tightly through remaining stitches to bunch it into a pom-pom shape.
• Stems/Leaves: Knit I-cords in Green. Sew the flowers to the top. Stitch pointed leaves to the sides of the stems. Plant them into the “soil” of the pot.

The Garden Trowel

Using Grey yarn (Blade) and Brown yarn (Handle).

• Blade: Cast on 6 stitches in Grey. Knit 6 rows. Decrease to a point.
• Handle: Pick up 3 stitches at the base of the blade in Brown. Knit an I-cord for 2 inches. You may insert a toothpick or wire for stiffness.

The Garden Beetle

Using Yarn H (Black/Dark Blue), US 2 needles.

• Body: Cast on 6 stitches. Increase to 12. Knit 4 rows. Decrease to 6. Draw through. Stuff to make a small oval.
• Head: Knit a smaller black bobble and sew to the front.
• Legs: Use black embroidery floss to stitch 6 tiny legs on the sides.
• Assembly: Sew the beetle onto the side of the terracotta pot as if it is climbing.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

The assembly process is where your bunny truly comes to life. Take your time with these steps to ensure a professional finish.

1. Body Assembly: Using the mattress stitch, sew the back seam of the legs and the center back of the body. Stuff the legs firmly to ensure the bunny can stand (if propped) or sit nicely. Leave the very top of the legs slightly softer to allow for bending at the hips. Stuff the body firmly.
2. Head Assembly: Sew the back seam of the head. Stuff the head into a round shape, ensuring the cheeks are plump and symmetrical. Ensure the neck is stuffed very firmly to support the head.
3. Face:
   • Eyes: Insert the safety eyes between rows 90 and 91, spacing them about 9 stitches apart. If the head is already closed, you can use black embroidery thread to satin stitch the eyes.
   • Nose: Using dark brown embroidery floss, stitch a “Y” shape in the center of the face. Satin stitch a small triangle at the top of the “Y” for the nose to give it dimension.
4. Limbs: Sew the ears to the sides of the head, curving them slightly forward to frame the face. Sew the arms to the sides of the body just below the neck seam.

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Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Because this is a handmade item, likely containing wool, it requires specific care to last for generations.

• Dusting: Regularly dust the bunny with a soft brush or a lint roller to prevent dirt buildup on the textured knits.
• Washing: Never machine wash this bunny if you used wool. Instead, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild wool detergent. If a full wash is absolutely necessary, submerge gently in cool water with wool wash, press out excess water (do not wring), and reshape on a towel to dry.
• Storage: Store out of direct sunlight to prevent the colors from fading. If storing for a long period, place in a breathable cotton bag with a lavender sachet to repel moths.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Have all loose ends been woven in securely?
• Are the safety eyes secured properly (if used)?
• Is the stuffing distributed evenly, without lumps?
• Is the neck sturdy enough? (If not, you may need to open a seam and add more stuffing).
• Are all accessories (like the beetle) securely stitched if the toy is intended for a child?

Your Potted Marigold Bunny is now complete. This project is a celebration of the warmth of the sun, the joy of gardening, and the art of knitting. Whether it sits on a windowsill overlooking the garden or is given as a gift to a nature lover, it is sure to bring a ray of sunshine into any home.