Welcome to the edgy yet enchanting world of the Hollyhock Moto-Atelier Bunny. This project captures a unique blend of styles, merging the rugged, structured look of a moto-style jacket with the soft, romantic beauty of a garden atelier. Our rabbit character is a designer with a bold sense of fashion, unafraid to mix leather-look textures with delicate floral embroidery.
To bring this sophisticated character to life, we recommend that you visit a specialized yarn shop to select the finest fibers. You will want to buy merino wool yarn in a soft oatmeal shade for the bunny’s skin to create a warm, natural texture that is durable. For the intricate wardrobe, such as the dusty pink jacket and taupe skirt, consider purchasing premium knitting supplies to ensure your stitch definition is crisp and your colors are rich. If you are ready to start this creative journey, check your knitting bag for your favorite needles and let us cast on.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Project Conceptualization and Design Philosophy
The Hollyhock Moto-Atelier Bunny stands approximately 14 inches (35 cm) tall. The design philosophy centers on “Industrial Cottage,” a theme that juxtaposes the soft, organic shapes of hollyhock flowers with the structured, asymmetric lines of a motorcycle jacket. This contrast creates a doll that is modern, stylish, and full of personality.
The construction utilizes a traditional flat-knitting method on two needles. This approach is accessible and allows for precise shaping of the bunny’s rounded cheeks and limbs. Seaming these pieces together provides a sturdy skeletal structure, ensuring the doll maintains its elegant posture whether it is sitting on a workbench or standing on a shelf.
The wardrobe is the centerpiece. The skirt serves as a neutral canvas for vibrant hollyhock embroidery, featuring tall stems and multi-petaled blooms. The jacket is a masterpiece of miniature tailoring, mimicking the lapels and zippers of a real moto jacket using clever stitch work. Every component, from the newsboy cap to the tiny bat companion, adds to the narrative of a bunny who works in a creative studio.
Consistent tension is the most important factor in achieving the professional finish seen in the photos. When working on the body, a firm tension prevents the white fiberfill from peeking through. For the clothing, a slightly more relaxed tension allows the garments to drape naturally. This attention to detail transforms a simple project into an heirloom.
Yarn and Essential Materials Checklist
- Yarn A (Bunny Body): 100g DK weight yarn in Oatmeal, Sand, or Light Biscuit.
- Yarn B (Jacket & Hat): 80g DK weight yarn in Dusty Pink, Old Rose, or Muted Mauve.
- Yarn C (Skirt): 60g DK weight yarn in Taupe, Mushroom, or Light Brown.
- Yarn D (Bat Companion): 30g DK weight yarn in Charcoal Grey or Black.
- Yarn E (Shoes & Bag): 30g DK weight yarn in Dark Cocoa or Walnut Brown.
- Yarn F (Embroidery): Small amounts of Deep Pink, Burgundy, and Forest Green.
- Needles: US size 3 (3.25mm) straight knitting needles for the main components.
- Detail Needles: US size 2 (2.75mm) for the miniature bat and tiny accessories.
- Stuffing: High-quality polyester fiberfill for a firm feel.
- Eyes: Two 9mm black safety eyes for the bunny; two small beads for the bat.
- Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, grey embroidery floss (for zipper detail), and a small piece of cardstock for the hat brim.
Gauge and Technical Tension Guidelines
For this specific doll, the target gauge should be 24 stitches and 30 rows over a 4-inch (10 cm) square in stockinette stitch. Maintaining a firm tension is vital when knitting stuffed toys. If the fabric is too loose, the stuffing will show through, which detracts from the professional look.
If you find that your knitting style is naturally loose, we strongly suggest moving down a needle size to a 3.0mm or 2.75mm. Conversely, if your fabric is stiff and difficult to manipulate, move up a size. Testing your gauge before beginning the legs will ensure that the tailored moto jacket fits the bunny perfectly.
Consistency is your best friend during this project. When making matching limbs, try to knit them in the same sitting if possible. This helps maintain the same hand tension, ensuring that the limbs are identical in length and width, allowing the bunny to stand symmetrically.
Common Abbreviations (US Standard)
- K: Knit
- P: Purl
- Sts: Stitches
- Inc: Increase (KFB – Knit into the front and then the back of the same stitch).
- Dec: Decrease (K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together).
- SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit (a left-leaning decrease for shaping).
- RS: Right Side (the public side of the fabric).
- WS: Wrong Side (the side that will be inside the toy).
- St st: Stockinette Stitch (Knit on RS rows, Purl on WS rows).
Part 1: The Oatmeal Bunny Body Foundation
The construction of the bunny begins with the legs. These are worked individually and then joined together at the center to form the lower torso. This bottom-up method provides the necessary stability for the weight of the bunny and ensures a smooth, continuous fabric from the hips up to the neck.
Knitting the Legs (Make 2)
Using Yarn A (Oatmeal) and your US 3 needles, cast on 12 stitches. Leave a long tail of yarn at the start for sewing the foot pad during the assembly phase. We will use the mattress stitch for all seams to keep the finish nearly invisible.
- Row 1 (WS): Purl all stitches across the row to set the foundation.
- Row 2 (RS): Increase in every stitch across the row (KFB). (24 sts). This forms the flat base of the foot.
- Row 3: Purl all stitches evenly, maintaining your firm hand tension.
- Row 4: *K1, Inc*, repeat from * to end of row. (36 sts). This creates the rounded, chubby paw shape.
- Rows 5-9: Work 5 rows in stockinette stitch, beginning with a Purl row on the WS.
- Row 10 (Shape Instep): K12, (K2tog) 6 times, K12. (30 sts). This forms the front curve of the foot.
- Row 11: Purl all stitches across the row.
- Row 12: K9, (K2tog) 6 times, K9. (24 sts). The ankle is now beginning to form.
- Row 13: Purl all stitches. Keep the tension tight to avoid gaps at the decreases.
- Row 14: K8, (K2tog) 4 times, K8. (20 sts). This defines the leg shape clearly.
- Rows 15-42: Work straight in stockinette stitch. Measure frequently to ensure both legs are the exact same length.
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Once you reach row 42 on the first leg, break the yarn and place the 20 stitches on a holder. Complete the second leg in the exact same manner, but do not break the yarn. We will use the working yarn from the second leg to join the pieces together at the crotch.
Joining and Knitting the Torso
With the RS of the second leg facing you, cast on 2 stitches for the crotch area, then knit across the 20 stitches of the first leg from the stitch holder. You should now have 42 stitches on your needle. Handle the join carefully to prevent large gaps from forming at the center seam.
- Row 44 (WS): Purl all stitches, including the two new cast-on stitches at the center.
- Row 45: K10, Inc, K20, Inc, K10. (44 sts). This adds volume to the bunny’s hips.
- Row 46: Purl all stitches evenly across the entire row.
- Row 47: K11, Inc, K20, Inc, K11. (46 sts). This completes the hip shaping.
- Rows 48-68: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This long section forms the bunny’s tummy area.
- Row 69: *K8, K2tog*, repeat to last 6 sts, K6. (42 sts). Starting the chest taper.
- Row 70: Purl all stitches. Maintain your focus on the consistent stitch count.
- Row 71: *K5, K2tog*, repeat to end of row. (36 sts). The chest is narrowing.
- Rows 72-76: Work straight in stockinette stitch to provide height to the upper torso.
- Row 77: *K4, K2tog*, repeat to end. (30 sts). Almost at the neck.
- Row 78: Purl all stitches.
- Row 79: *K3, K2tog*, repeat to end. (24 sts). Final torso shaping.
- Row 80: Purl across. This row represents the neck line where the head begins.
Part 2: The Bunny Head and Expressive Features
The head is worked as a direct continuation of the neck. It is vital to stuff the neck column extremely firmly during assembly so that the head remains upright. The head is shaped with rapid increases to create the chubby, endearing cheeks that define our bunny’s personality.
- Row 81 (RS): *K1, Inc*, repeat to the end of the row. (36 sts).
- Row 82: Purl all stitches across the row.
- Row 83: *K2, Inc*, repeat to the end of the row. (48 sts).
- Row 84: Purl all stitches. The fabric is expanding for the face.
- Row 85: *K7, Inc*, repeat to end. (54 sts). The cheeks are now fully established.
- Rows 86-106: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This provides the height for safety eye placement.
- Row 107: *K7, K2tog*, repeat to end. (48 sts). Starting the top of the head.
- Row 108: Purl all stitches.
- Row 109: *K6, K2tog*, repeat to end. (42 sts).
- Row 110: Purl all stitches.
- Row 111: *K5, K2tog*, repeat to end. (36 sts).
- Row 112: Purl all stitches.
- Row 113: *K4, K2tog*, repeat to end. (30 sts).
- Row 114: Purl all stitches.
- Row 115: *K3, K2tog*, repeat to end. (24 sts).
- Row 116: Purl all stitches.
- Row 117: *K1, K2tog*, repeat to end. (16 sts).
- Row 118: K2tog across the entire row. (8 sts).
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for finishing. Use a tapestry needle to thread the tail through the remaining 8 stitches and pull tight to close the crown of the head. Secure the end firmly and hide the tail inside the head structure. This completes the core anatomy.
The Gentle Arms (Make 2)
Using Yarn A (Oatmeal), cast on 10 stitches. The arms are designed to be soft and flexible so they can hold the accessories or the bat friend. Ensure your tension matches the legs perfectly to maintain a professional look throughout the assembly process.
- Row 1: Purl all stitches across the row.
- Row 2: Increase in every stitch across the row. (20 sts).
- Rows 3-26: Work in stockinette stitch. Measure frequently to ensure both arms are identical.
- Row 27: *K2, K2tog*, repeat across the row. (15 sts). Shaping the upper shoulder area.
- Row 28: Purl across all stitches.
- Row 29: K2tog across the row to the last stitch, Knit 1. (8 sts).
Fasten off and leave a long tail. Sew the side seam and stuff the hand area firmly. Leave the upper shoulder area lightly stuffed to allow the arm to hang naturally by the bunny’s side, creating a relaxed and inviting posture.
The Long Floppy Ears (Make 2)
The ears are a large and iconic part of this design. They are worked flat and then folded at the base during attachment. Using Yarn A, cast on 14 stitches. These should be knitted with a relaxed but consistent tension to allow natural drape.
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- Rows 1-42: Work in stockinette stitch. Keep the edges neat for easy seaming.
- Row 43: SSK, K10, K2tog. (12 sts). Starting the rounded tip.
- Row 44: Purl all stitches.
- Row 45: SSK, K8, K2tog. (10 sts).
- Row 46: Purl all stitches.
- Row 47: SSK, K6, K2tog. (8 sts).
- Row 48: Purl all stitches.
- Row 49: SSK, K4, K2tog. (6 sts).
- Row 50: Purl all stitches.
- Row 51: SSK, K2, K2tog. (4 sts).
- Row 52: K2tog twice. (2 sts).
Fasten off and draw the yarn through the final stitches. Sew the long edges together using a ladder stitch. Do not stuff the ears; they need to remain soft and flat to look authentic. Set these aside for the final assembly phase once the body is stuffed.
Part 3: The Atelier Wardrobe – Hollyhock Skirt
The skirt is a canvas for botanical art. It is knitted in Yarn C (Taupe) and features a stunning row of embroidered hollyhocks at the hem and a larger climbing vine on the left side. The colorwork creates a rich, textured look that mimics a garden bed.
The Skirt and Floral Border
Using Yarn C, cast on 72 stitches. We begin at the hem to create the volume needed for the skirt. We will use a geometric stranded colorwork band at the bottom, using Yarn B (Pink) and Yarn F (Green) to create a repeating tulip or bud motif.
- Rows 1-4: Knit every row (Garter Stitch) to create a flat, sturdy hem that won’t roll.
- Rows 5-8: Work in stockinette stitch using Yarn C.
- Row 9 (Begin Stems): Join Yarn F (Green). *K3 C, K1 F, K4 C*, repeat across the row.
- Row 10: Purl row, following the colors established. Keep floats loose on the WS.
- Row 11 (Flower Base): Join Yarn B (Pink). *K2 C, K3 B, K3 C*, repeat across.
- Row 12: Purl row, making the flower clusters slightly wider.
- Rows 13-14: Complete the flower spikes. Break contrast yarns.
- Rows 15-30: Work in stockinette stitch with Yarn C until the skirt reaches the waist length.
- Waist Row: *K2tog* across the entire row. (36 sts). This creates the gathered waist.
- Row 32: Cast off loosely. Sew the back seam.
Side Embroidery: Once the skirt is assembled, use Yarn F (Green) and Yarn B (Pink) to embroider a tall hollyhock stalk on the left side. Use stem stitch for the main stalk and satin stitch for the large, open pink blooms climbing up the fabric.
Part 4: The Moto-Style Jacket
The jacket is the statement piece of the outfit. Knitted in Yarn B (Dusty Pink), it is designed to mimic the structure of a motorcycle jacket with an asymmetric front and a structured collar. This requires careful shaping and construction.
Back and Asymmetric Fronts
We work the jacket in pieces to achieve the structured fit. The left front panel will be wider than the right to create the overlapping “double-breasted” or zipped look characteristic of moto jackets.
- Back Panel: Cast on 28 stitches. Work 20 rows in stockinette stitch. Cast off.
- Right Front Panel: Cast on 14 stitches. Work 20 rows. Decrease 1 st at the neck edge on the last 4 rows.
- Left Front Panel (The Overlap): Cast on 20 stitches. Work 20 rows. On the right side edge (which will cross the chest), keep the edge straight. Decrease at the neck edge only.
- Collar: Pick up stitches around the neck edge of the assembled body. Knit 6 rows in garter stitch, increasing at the corners to create pointed lapels.
Jacket Details and Sleeves
The sleeves feature a colorwork cuff that matches the skirt’s floral theme. Cast on 16 stitches with Yarn B. Work 4 rows of colorwork using Yarn F (Green) and Yarn B (Pink) to create a small floral band. Then work 10 rows in stockinette (Pink). Cast off.
- Assembly: Sew the shoulders and sides. Set in the sleeves.
- Zipper Detail: Use grey embroidery floss to stitch a straight line down the asymmetric opening of the jacket to simulate a metal zipper.
- Pockets: Knit two small semi-circles in pink and sew them to the front panels at an angle. Embroider tiny green leaves on them.
Part 5: Accessories – Cap, Shoes, and Bag
The accessories tie the entire look together. The hat is a classic newsboy/baker boy cap, and the shoes feature a unique strap design. We also include a sturdy handbag for the bunny to carry her design tools.
The Dusty Pink Newsboy Cap
Using Yarn B, cast on 50 stitches. This hat features a stiff brim and a floppy crown. We will use a garter stitch brim for stability, perhaps knitting it double thickness to insert a cardstock stiffener.
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- Brim: Cast on 15 stitches. Work in garter stitch, decreasing at the edges to form a crescent shape. Cast off.
- Band: Cast on 50 stitches. Knit 4 rows in garter stitch.
- Crown: Switch to stockinette. Increase to 70 stitches. Work 10 rows. Decrease rapidly (K2tog across) every other row to close the top.
- Assembly: Sew the brim to the front of the band. Sew the back seam of the crown.
- Flower: Knit a large 3D flower using Yarn B and sew it to the side of the hat band.
The Cocoa Mary Jane Shoes
Using Yarn E (Cocoa), cast on 12 stitches. We use the same construction logic as the foot base but slightly larger to fit over the bunny’s foot. These shoes provide a grounded earthy tone to the pink outfit.
- Sole: Knit 10 rows in stockinette stitch.
- Upper: Pick up 30 stitches around the edge of the sole.
- Rows 1-4: Work in stockinette stitch.
- Row 5: K8, (K2tog) 7 times, K8. (23 sts). This shapes the toe.
- Row 6: Cast off all stitches. Sew the back heel seam.
- Strap: Crochet a chain or knit a thin strip. Sew across the instep and add a small beige button or square of felt for detail.
The Atelier Tote Bag
Our bunny is a designer. We will create a beige tote bag using Yarn C (Taupe) to carry her sketchbooks. This prop gives the character a sense of purpose.
- Bag Body: Cast on 20 stitches. Work in garter stitch for 6 inches. Fold in half and sew side seams.
- Handles: Knit two short I-cord straps and sew them to the top edges of the bag. The bag should be sturdy and hold its shape.
Part 6: The Bat Companion
The companion is a tiny dark grey bat (Yarn D). This unusual choice adds a gothic-cottage twist to the scene. The bat wears a tiny pink bow tie and a miniature top hat.
Bat Body and Wings
Using Yarn D (Dark Grey), cast on 10 stitches. Increase to 20 stitches and work 10 rows for the body. Decrease back to 10 and draw through. For the head, pick up 8 stitches at the front. Increase to 14 stitches and work 6 rows. Add pointy ears.
- Wings: Cast on 4 stitches. Increase at the start of every row to create a triangle shape. Make ribbing lines (purl stitches) to simulate wing bones. Make 2. Sew to the back of the bat.
- Accessories: Tie a tiny pink yarn bow around the bat’s neck. Knit a tiny black cylinder for a top hat and sew it to the bat’s head.
- Face: Embroider small black eyes and a tiny pink nose.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
The assembly is the most important step in giving your character its personality. Take your time to align the features symmetrically and ensure all seaming is tight and neat. A well-assembled doll is the difference between a project and an heirloom.
- Body Seaming: Use a ladder stitch to sew the legs and torso. Stuff the legs firmly to allow for a sturdy standing pose. The tummy should be rounded and soft. Ensure the neck is reinforced with extra stuffing to support the head.
- Face Placement:
- Insert the 9mm safety eyes between rows 90 and 91, approximately 9 stitches apart.
- Embroider the nose using Yarn E (Cocoa) or a dark brown floss. Create a small “Y” shape for the classic bunny mouth.
- (Optional) Add a touch of pink cosmetic blush to the cheeks for a healthy glow.
- Limbs and Ears: Sew the arms just below the neck line. Fold the base of the ears and sew them to the top of the head so they flop naturally to the sides, framing the newsboy cap.
- Dressing: Put on the skirt first. Secure the moto jacket over the top. Place the cap on the head. Secure the shoes. Arrange the bat, tote bag, and studio tools (scissors, tape measure).
Care Notes for Your Heirloom Bunny
Your Hollyhock Moto-Atelier Bunny is a delicate piece of artisan craft. Because of the intricate floral embroidery and the small accessory pieces, it is not intended for rough play. It is best suited as a decorative item for a nursery, studio, or collector’s shelf.
Over time, high-quality wool can develop a slight fuzz or “pilling.” This is a natural characteristic of the fiber. You can gently remove any pilling using a small pair of embroidery scissors to keep the bunny looking fresh and new. Always keep the doll in a dry environment.
If the bunny is meant for a young child, please ensure all safety eyes are locked securely and that the tiny accessories (like the bat’s hat or the buttons) are double-stitched to the bunny or the bag to prevent them from becoming a choking hazard. Safety is always the priority.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Are the safety eyes locked securely in place and level with each other?
- Is the neck stuffed firmly enough to keep the head upright and straight?
- Are all loose yarn ends woven in and hidden deep within the bunny stuffing?
- Does the bunny sit evenly without tipping over to one side?
- Is the companion bat’s wings securely attached to its grey body?
- Are the embroidered hollyhocks on the skirt symmetrical?
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Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Handmade knitted toys should never be placed in a washing machine. The high agitation will cause the natural wool to felt and the intricate embroidery to unravel or distort. If the bunny becomes dusty, a gentle once-over with a soft-bristled brush or a lint roller is usually sufficient for cleaning.
If a deeper clean is required for a specific stain, use a damp cloth with a very small amount of mild wool detergent. Dab the area gently; do not rub, as rubbing will pill the yarn and blur the stitch definition. Allow the bunny to air dry completely away from direct sunlight.
To preserve the vibrant pink and taupe colors, avoid displaying the bunny in a window with high UV exposure, as sunlight can fade the dyes over time. For long-term storage, place the bunny in a breathable cotton bag with a cedar block to keep moths away from the wool.
Congratulations on completing your Hollyhock Moto-Atelier Bunny. This project is a celebration of the creative spirit found in the studio and the timeless art of hand-knitting. Whether she sits on your mantle or becomes a treasured gift, she is sure to bring a sense of stylish inspiration to her new home.



