The Lily of the Valley & White Dove Bunny – Knitting

This charming bunny doll is dressed for spring with a lily-of-the-valley skirt, a delicate white capelet, and a scalloped bonnet. She carries a tiny beaded drawstring pouch and a leafy wreath with a white dove perched on top. The finished set makes a wonderful handmade heirloom gift, a nursery shelf decor piece, or a collectible doll for anyone browsing for a knitting pattern PDF, premium yarn kits, or artisan handmade dolls on Etsy-style marketplaces.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

You will knit a standing bunny doll with a simple, sweet face; long ears; a green skirt with lily-of-the-valley motifs; a white lace-edged capelet; a white lace-edged bonnet; white Mary Jane shoes; a small beaded pouch; a leafy ring wreath; and a small white dove. Pieces are knitted separately and sewn together with clean shaping for stability.

The doll in the image has a soft, slightly chunky fabric with tight stitches, smooth shaping at the head and limbs, and crisp edges on accessories. Choose yarn and needles that create a firm fabric so the doll stands well and holds details like the lace edging and colorwork clearly.

Finished Size

With the suggested gauge and yarn weight, the bunny stands about 10–11 in (25–28 cm) tall from feet to bonnet top. Exact size will vary based on yarn, needle size, and stuffing density. The skirt hem reaches just above the shoes, and the capelet ends at the upper waist.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate. You should be comfortable with knitting in the round, basic increases and decreases, seaming, simple lace eyelets, and small-area colorwork (intarsia-style blocks or duplicate stitch). The dove is small and fiddly but uses straightforward shaping.

Yarn

• Main bunny: Worsted or light aran in warm oatmeal/taupe (approx. 120–160 yd / 110–145 m).
• White: Worsted in white (approx. 120–160 yd / 110–145 m) for capelet, bonnet, shoes, and dove.
• Skirt base: Worsted in spring green (approx. 100–140 yd / 90–128 m).
• Leafy stems: Worsted in deep leaf green (approx. 30–50 yd / 28–46 m).
• Flower bells: Worsted in white (uses from the white ball) plus a tiny scrap of very pale green for stems if desired.
• Pouch: Scrap of bunny yarn or a slightly lighter beige (approx. 20–30 yd / 18–28 m).
• Optional: Fingering-weight white thread/yarn for extra crisp lace edging (use held together with worsted only if you prefer).

Needles

• US 3 (3.25 mm) and US 4 (3.5 mm) DPNs or circular for magic loop (for tight fabric).
• US 4 (3.5 mm) straight needles (optional) for flat pieces like capelet and bonnet.
• Adjust needle size to achieve a firm, stuffing-proof fabric.

Notions

• Polyester fiberfill stuffing.
• Tapestry needle for seaming.
• Stitch markers (at least 6).
• Scrap yarn for holders.
• 2 small black beads or safety eyes (6–8 mm) or black embroidery floss for eyes.
• Brown embroidery floss for nose and mouth.
• Small white beads/pearls for the pouch (as seen in the image), 10–18 pieces.
• Small ribbon or i-cord/cord for pouch drawstring (or knit a cord).
• Thin craft wire (optional) to shape the wreath ring, or use a firm knitted tube only.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical, but it affects size and proportions. Aim for a dense fabric: about 24 sts x 34 rnds = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette in the round using US 3–4 (3.25–3.5 mm) with worsted yarn. Your fabric should not show stuffing through the stitches.

Abbreviations

• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd = round
• RS/WS = right side/wrong side
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• m1L/m1R = make 1 left/right
• yo = yarn over
• sl = slip stitch purlwise
• inc = increase
• dec = decrease
• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• sm = slip marker
• pm = place marker
• rep = repeat
• i-cord = knitted cord

Construction Notes

The bunny is knitted with separate head, body, arms, and legs. The dress is a separate skirt piece that slides onto the body, giving the crisp green silhouette in the photo. The capelet ties at the neck and sits over the shoulders, ending in scalloped lace.

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The bonnet is worked flat, then seamed to form a cap. A lace edging frames the face. The shoes are knitted separately and attached to the feet for the Mary Jane look. The pouch and wreath are accessories, and the dove is a tiny shaped piece.

To match the photo, keep the bunny’s arms simple and slightly tapered, with a rounded paw. The right paw holds the leafy ring. The left paw holds the pouch by its drawstring. The dove perches on the wreath and is stitched securely.

Colorwork Motif Guidance

The skirt shows repeated lily-of-the-valley stems in darker green, with small white bell flowers clustered near the upper mid-skirt. You can create this look with one of two methods. Choose the method that feels most comfortable and gives the cleanest result for you.

• Method A (intarsia blocks): Work the skirt flat, adding separate yarn bobbins for stems and flower clusters, then seam the skirt. This gives very crisp motifs.
• Method B (duplicate stitch): Knit the skirt in the round in plain green, then embroider stems and bells with duplicate stitch over stockinette. This is simpler and still looks excellent at doll scale.

The pattern below includes a structured plan for both methods. If you want the strongest match to the image, Method B with careful duplicate stitch and even tension is often the cleanest at this small scale.

BUNNY DOLL

Head (in the round)

CO 6 sts. Join in the round. Place marker for start of rnd.

1. Rnd 1: k all sts.
2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
3. Rnd 3: (k1, inc) rep around. (18 sts)
4. Rnd 4: k all.
5. Rnd 5: (k2, inc) rep around. (24 sts)
6. Rnd 6: k all.
7. Rnd 7: (k3, inc) rep around. (30 sts)
8. Rnd 8: k all.
9. Rnd 9: (k4, inc) rep around. (36 sts)
10. Rnd 10: k all.
11. Rnd 11: (k5, inc) rep around. (42 sts)
12. Rnd 12: k all.

Work even in stockinette (k every rnd) for 16–18 rnds, depending on your gauge, to create the rounded head height seen in the photo. The head should look slightly taller than it is wide, with gentle fullness at the cheeks.

Face placement markers: After the even section, place two removable markers at eye level. The eyes sit slightly above the midpoint of the face, about 7–8 sts apart. The nose sits centered below the eye line.

1. Decrease Rnd 1: (k5, k2tog) rep around. (36 sts)
2. Rnd 2: k all.
3. Decrease Rnd 3: (k4, k2tog) rep around. (30 sts)
4. Rnd 4: k all.
5. Decrease Rnd 5: (k3, k2tog) rep around. (24 sts)
6. Rnd 6: k all.
7. Decrease Rnd 7: (k2, k2tog) rep around. (18 sts)
8. Rnd 8: k all.

Begin stuffing firmly, shaping a smooth sphere with a gentle muzzle area. Do not overstuff to the point of stretching. Add more stuffing as you close the top.

1. Decrease Rnd 9: (k1, k2tog) rep around. (12 sts)
2. Decrease Rnd 10: k2tog around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight to close, and weave in. Set head aside.

Ears (make 2, worked flat then lightly shaped)

The ears in the photo are long and soft, hanging down the sides of the head. They appear slightly oval with a gentle curve, not stiff.

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CO 14 sts. Work back and forth in stockinette, slipping the first st of every row for a neat edge.

1. Row 1 (RS): k all.
2. Row 2 (WS): p all.
3. Row 3: k1, m1L, k to last 1, m1R, k1. (16 sts)
4. Row 4: p all.
5. Row 5: k all.
6. Row 6: p all.

Repeat Rows 5–6 for 18–22 rows, until ear length looks proportionate to the head. The finished ear should reach from crown to just below the capelet line when attached.

Shape ear tip: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. Next WS row p all. Repeat these 2 rows until 6 sts remain. Work 4 more rows even, then BO loosely.

Fold ear lengthwise slightly (not a sharp fold) and seam just the bottom 1 in (2.5 cm) to create a gentle cup. Leave the rest unseamed so the ear stays soft and floppy.

Body (in the round)

The body is a sturdy cylinder with slight shaping at the waist. The dress covers the body, but you want a stable core for standing.

CO 6 sts. Join in the round.

1. Rnd 1: inc in each st. (12 sts)
2. Rnd 2: (k1, inc) rep around. (18 sts)
3. Rnd 3: (k2, inc) rep around. (24 sts)
4. Rnd 4: k all.
5. Rnd 5: (k3, inc) rep around. (30 sts)
6. Rnd 6: k all.

Work even for 10–12 rnds to form the torso. The body should be slightly narrower than the head and tall enough so the skirt sits at a natural waist.

Waist shaping: (k4, k2tog) rep around. (25 sts) Work 2 rnds even. Next rnd: (k3, k2tog) rep around as evenly as possible. (about 20–21 sts)

Work 8–10 rnds even for the upper body and neck base. Stuff firmly as you go, keeping the sides straight. The top should be firm enough to support the head without wobble.

BO, leaving a long tail for attaching head. Set aside.

Arms (make 2, in the round)

The arms are slim with rounded paws. One arm will be positioned to hold the wreath, the other to hold the pouch cord.

CO 6 sts. Join in the round.

1. Rnd 1: inc in each st. (12 sts)
2. Rnd 2: k all.
3. Rnd 3: (k2, inc) rep around. (16 sts)
4. Rnd 4: k all.

Work even for 6 rnds for the paw. Lightly stuff just the paw area. Do not overstuff the arm tube.

Arm taper: (k2, k2tog) rep around. (12 sts) Work 2 rnds even. Work 16–18 rnds even for arm length.

Flatten opening and BO using a three-needle bind off or BO flat. Leave a long tail for sewing. Make the second arm the same.

Legs (make 2, in the round)

The legs are short and sturdy. The shoes are separate, so the leg ends at the ankle line.

CO 6 sts. Join in the round.

1. Rnd 1: inc in each st. (12 sts)
2. Rnd 2: (k1, inc) rep around. (18 sts)
3. Rnd 3: k all.
4. Rnd 4: (k2, inc) rep around. (24 sts)
5. Rnd 5: k all.

Work 6 rnds even for the foot base. Stuff firmly, shaping a flat bottom so the doll stands. Add more stuffing at the toe area for a rounded front.

Ankle shaping: (k2, k2tog) rep around. (18 sts) Work 2 rnds even.

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Leg tube: Work 10–12 rnds even. Stuff firmly, keeping the leg straight. BO and leave a long tail for sewing to body.

SHOES (Mary Jane style, make 2, in the round then small strap)

The shoes in the photo are white, rounded, and slightly puffy, with a simple strap across the top. They sit neatly on the feet and show a small opening at the ankle.

Using white yarn, CO 24 sts. Join in the round. Work 3 rnds k1, p1 rib for a snug ankle edge.

Work 6 rnds stockinette (k all). Begin toe shaping: place marker at instep center. Work (k2tog, k to 2 sts before marker, ssk) twice per rnd for 4 rnds, reducing the front more than the back.

Stuff lightly at toe. Continue decreasing until 12–14 sts remain. Pull tight with a gathering tail to create a rounded toe cap.

For the strap, pick up 6 sts across the top opening. Work 6 rows flat in garter (k every row). BO. Stitch the strap ends to the shoe sides. Repeat for second shoe.

Slide each shoe onto a leg foot. Align the strap at the front. Stitch around the ankle edge and lightly tack the shoe sole to the foot bottom for stability.

DRESS SKIRT (green with lily-of-the-valley)

The skirt is a separate tube that starts at the waist and flares gently. The lily-of-the-valley pattern appears around the lower midsection, with stems rising and white bell clusters.

Skirt Base (in the round)

Using green yarn, CO 60 sts. Join in the round. Work 4 rnds in garter-in-the-round style for a subtle hem ridge: alternate 1 rnd knit, 1 rnd purl, repeating twice.

Work 6 rnds stockinette (k all). Begin gentle flare increases: on next rnd, (k9, m1R) rep around. (66 sts) Work 5 rnds even.

Repeat the increase rnd one more time: (k10, m1R) rep around. (72 sts) Work 10 rnds even.

At this point, the skirt should reach near the doll’s mid-calf. The motif band will sit here. Mark the beginning of the motif band with a removable marker if helpful.

Motif Band Option A (worked flat, intarsia, then seam)

If you prefer intarsia blocks, work the skirt flat. Instead of joining in the round, work back and forth after the hem. Place motifs evenly around the width, then seam the skirt tube at the back with mattress stitch.

Create 3–4 repeating panels across the skirt width. Each panel includes a dark-green stem that rises in a gentle V and 3–5 white bells clustered on one side near the upper part of the stem. Keep bells small, about 1–2 stitches wide.

After completing the motif band, resume plain green stockinette for the upper skirt, then finish with a waistband casing. This option is precise but requires careful bobbin management.

Motif Band Option B (duplicate stitch, recommended for clean doll-scale)

For this option, keep knitting the skirt in plain green in the round. Knit 10 rnds plain for the motif area. Then add stems and bells with duplicate stitch after knitting is complete.

Place 3 large stems spaced evenly around the skirt, with one centered front and two slightly to the sides. Each stem begins near the hem band and rises in a soft curve, forming a gentle V shape like in the photo.

Use deep leaf green to duplicate stitch the stems and two large leaf shapes per stem. The leaf shapes in the image are bold, triangular-oval, and sit low on the skirt, pointing upward.

Use white to duplicate stitch small bell clusters above each stem. Make each bell cluster 3–5 bells, each bell formed by a tiny loop of duplicated stitches. Leave small green gaps so bells read as separate.

Once the motif is finished, continue knitting the upper skirt for 12–14 rnds plain green so the bells sit below the waist seam. This keeps the flower band visually centered like the photo.

Waistband and Fit

Work 4 rnds k1, p1 rib for the waist. BO loosely. Test the skirt on the body. It should slide on snugly without stretching too much. If needed, thread a thin elastic or a drawstring through the ribbing to secure.

Lightly tack the skirt to the body at the waist in four points (front, back, and sides) so it stays aligned during play or display. Keep stitches hidden under the capelet line.

CAPELET (white, lace-edged, ties at neck)

The capelet is a small shoulder cover that drapes over the bunny’s arms and ends in scalloped lace. It ties at the center front with a thin cord or knitted ties.

Work flat in white. CO 48 sts. Work 4 rows garter stitch (k every row) for a neat collar edge.

Begin shaping for shoulders: Row 5 (RS): k2, m1L, k to last 2, m1R, k2. Row 6 (WS): p all. Repeat these 2 rows 6 times. (60 sts)

Work 8 rows stockinette (RS knit, WS purl). The piece should now cover the shoulders and upper arms. Check width against the doll: it should wrap around with a slight overlap at front.

Lace Edge

Work the lace edge as follows, keeping rows short and readable. This lace makes the scalloped look around the hem in the photo.

1. Edge Row 1 (RS): k2, (yo, k2tog) rep to last 2, k2.
2. Edge Row 2 (WS): p all.
3. Edge Row 3 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k2tog, k1) rep to last 2, k2.
4. Edge Row 4 (WS): p all.
5. Edge Row 5 (RS): k2, (yo, k1, k2tog, k1) rep to last 2, k2.
6. Edge Row 6 (WS): p all.

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BO loosely to preserve scallops. Block lightly by pinning the edge into gentle curves. Do not overstretch; you want small scallops like the image.

Ties

Knit two small i-cords: CO 3 sts, work i-cord for 6–7 in (15–18 cm). BO. Sew one tie to each front corner of the capelet collar edge. Tie into a small bow at center front.

BONNET (white, lace-edged face frame)

The bonnet in the photo frames the face with a scalloped lace edge, then gathers slightly at the back. It ties under the chin with a simple cord.

CO 54 sts in white. Work 6 rows garter stitch for a stable brim base. Next, work lace rows to create the decorative edging near the face.

1. Lace Row 1 (RS): k2, (yo, k2tog) rep to last 2, k2.
2. Row 2 (WS): p all.
3. Lace Row 3 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k2tog, k1) rep to last 2, k2.
4. Row 4 (WS): p all.

Work 18–20 rows stockinette (RS knit, WS purl) to form the bonnet depth. The panel should reach from forehead to the back of the head with a slight extra for gathering.

Back shaping: On the next RS row, k2, (k2tog) 10 times spaced evenly, k to end. This reduces width for a rounded back. Work 6 more rows stockinette.

Fold the bonnet panel in half with RS facing out. Seam the back edge from crown down about 4–5 in (10–13 cm), leaving the lower back slightly open for a soft gathered look.

Pick up stitches along the bottom edge and work 4 rows garter to stabilize. BO. Add two i-cord ties (as for capelet) and sew them at the lower front corners for under-chin tying.

POUCH (beige drawstring with pearl beads)

The pouch is small, soft, and slightly rounded, with white bead embellishments like in the photo. Knit it as a tiny tube, then gather the bottom and add a drawstring at the top.

Using beige yarn, CO 24 sts. Join in the round. Work 2 rnds k1, p1 rib. Work 10 rnds stockinette.

Optional bead placement: After knitting, sew white beads onto the pouch in a scattered polka-dot layout. Keep beads mostly on the front and sides, leaving the back less decorated so it sits neatly.

To close the bottom, thread yarn tail through all live sts and pull tight. Stitch the gathered circle closed securely. Lightly stuff the pouch with a pinch of fiberfill to keep shape.

Create the drawstring channel: pick up 24 sts at the top edge and work 3 rnds k1, p1 rib. BO loosely. Thread a thin cord through the ribbing, weave in/out every 2–3 sts, and tie ends into a bow.

Stitch a small loop inside the pouch top so you can tack it to the bunny’s hand if desired. In the photo, the bunny holds the pouch by its cord.

LEAFY WREATH RING (green)

The wreath is a small ring wrapped in green with leaf texture. It sits in the bunny’s paw, and the dove perches on it. You can make the ring firm with wire or by stuffing a knitted tube.

Ring Base

CO 6 sts with deep leaf green. Join in the round and knit an i-cord tube by knitting all sts each rnd for 10–12 in (25–30 cm). BO. If using wire, thread wire through the tube before closing the last inch.

Form a ring about 2.25–2.75 in (5.5–7 cm) diameter. Overlap ends by 0.5 in (1.25 cm) and stitch firmly. If you did not use wire, lightly stuff the tube before closing the final seam.

Leaves (knit small leaves and stitch on)

Make 10–14 tiny leaves. CO 6 sts. Row 1: k all. Row 2: p all. Row 3: k1, m1L, k to last 1, m1R, k1. (8 sts) Row 4: p all.

Row 5: k all. Row 6: p all. Row 7: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (6 sts) Row 8: p all. BO. Stitch leaves around the ring, angling them outward.

For extra texture, add a few short stem stitches between leaves using the same yarn. Keep embellishment concentrated on the top half of the wreath, leaving the bottom smoother for the bunny to grip.

WHITE DOVE (small perched bird)

The dove is a small white bird with a rounded body, a tiny head, and a slightly raised tail. It perches on the wreath with its belly stitched down. Keep stuffing minimal to preserve the tiny shape.

Dove Body (worked flat)

CO 18 sts in white. Work stockinette for 8 rows (RS knit, WS purl). This forms the belly panel and side body.

Shape head end: On next RS row, k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (16 sts) WS row p all. Repeat these 2 rows 2 more times. (12 sts)

Work 2 rows even. Shape beak tip subtly: next RS row, k2tog, k to last 2, k2tog. (10 sts) WS row p all.

BO. Fold the piece lengthwise with RS out. Seam from beak back to tail end, leaving a small opening. Lightly stuff. Close seam.

Wings (make 2)

CO 8 sts. Work 2 rows garter. Next RS row: k1, m1L, k to last 1, m1R, k1. (10 sts) Work 4 rows stockinette.

Shape wing tip: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. WS p all. Repeat once. BO. Stitch wings to the sides of the dove, slightly angled back.

Tail

CO 6 sts. Work 6 rows garter. BO. Stitch the tail at the back, angling it slightly upward like the photo. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing under the tail base if you want lift.

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Embroider a very small eye with black thread, or use a tiny knot. Keep it subtle so the dove remains soft and minimal.

ASSEMBLY

Assembly order matters for a clean finish. Take your time and pin pieces before sewing. Use small, tight stitches and match yarn colors for invisible seams.

Attach Ears to Head

Pin ears to the head sides, slightly behind the midpoint, so they hang down. The top of each ear should sit near the crown area that will be covered by the bonnet. Sew the cupped base firmly, then add two small tacking stitches higher up to guide the drape.

Attach Head to Body

Center the head on the body top. Use the long tail from the body or head to stitch around the neck join. Pull snugly, then add extra stitches at front and back to prevent wobble. Check that the face looks forward and level.

Attach Legs

Pin legs to the bottom of the body, spaced so the doll stands. The inner leg edges should be close but not touching. Sew firmly around each leg opening. Add extra stitches at the inner thighs for strength.

Stand the doll on a flat surface and adjust leg angle before tightening the final stitches. A slight outward angle helps stability while keeping the cute stance shown in the photo.

Attach Arms

Pin arms to the upper body sides, slightly forward. The paws should reach the skirt front area. Sew around the arm top edges firmly. For the right arm, angle it so the paw can hold the wreath at the side.

For the left arm, angle it so the paw rests near the pouch cord. You can tack the paw lightly to the cord so it stays posed.

Dress, Capelet, Bonnet

Slide the skirt onto the body and position the motif front-and-center. Tack at waist. Place the capelet over the shoulders, align the front overlap, and tie at the neck. The capelet should sit smoothly over the arms.

Place the bonnet so the lace edge frames the face. Tie under the chin with a neat bow. Ensure the ears sit beneath the bonnet sides and remain visible at the edges like in the photo.

Accessories Placement

Loop the pouch cord around the left paw and tack with a few hidden stitches. Place the wreath in the right paw and tack the ring to the paw from the back so stitches are not visible from the front.

Stitch the dove onto the wreath top edge. Use several small stitches under the belly and a hidden stitch near the tail so it sits securely and does not rotate.

Facial Details

Place the eyes at the marked positions, slightly above the face midpoint, evenly spaced. For beads, secure with strong thread and knot inside the head. For embroidered eyes, use small satin stitches in black.

Embroider the nose in a tiny inverted triangle with brown floss. Add a short vertical stitch down, then a small “Y” mouth. Keep lines fine and centered for the calm expression shown in the photo.

Duplicate Stitch Motifs (if using Option B)

Work stems first using deep leaf green. Start near the hem and build upward in smooth diagonals. Add two bold leaf shapes per stem, slightly asymmetrical, with the tips pointing upward.

Add white bells last. Place small clusters near the upper stem area, as if the bells hang from a curved stalk. Keep bell shapes small and separated by green stitches so they read clearly.

After duplicate stitch, lightly steam the skirt from a distance to settle stitches. Do not press hard. Let dry flat before dressing the doll again.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Do one final check for symmetry: head centered, eyes level, bonnet even, capelet lying flat, and skirt motif centered. Add a few hidden tacking stitches where layers shift, especially at the capelet shoulders and bonnet sides near the ears.

Care Notes

This knitted doll is best as a display piece or gentle play item. Spot clean when possible. Avoid rough pulling on lace edging, beads, or the dove attachment. Keep away from pets that may snag yarn or accessories.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly attached and not wobbling.
• Legs aligned for stable standing.
• Shoes secured and straps centered.
• Skirt motif centered and tacked at waist.
• Capelet ties neat and lace edge even.
• Bonnet framed evenly around face and tied securely.
• Pouch beads secured and cord tacked to paw.
• Wreath held neatly, dove stitched firmly.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For light dirt, use a damp cloth with mild soap and blot gently. For deeper cleaning, hand wash accessories separately when possible, keeping beads out of prolonged soaking. Squeeze in a towel, reshape, and air dry flat.

Store away from direct sun to prevent fading, especially on the green skirt. Keep in a breathable bag or display case. If storing long-term, place acid-free tissue around lace edges to prevent creasing and snagging.