Limnanthes Lemon-Cream Babydoll Bunny – Crochet

If you love collecting a dressed-up amigurumi doll that looks like a boutique handmade plush, this lemon-cream bunny will fit right in. Gather cotton yarn, safety eyes, polyester stuffing, and a small set of buttons to create a display-worthy gift that feels ready for an Etsy-style shopping list.

This design includes the bunny, her bucket hat, cardigan, babydoll dress, and tiny accessories for a styled photo scene. If you’re browsing for crochet doll clothes, mini backpack ideas, or amigurumi accessory sets to buy as kits later, use this as your build plan and size reference.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

You will make one soft bunny doll in cream tones with a pale lemon dress, plus a matching hat with a white flower. The outfit includes a short cardigan with small daisies and buttons, and a full skirt trimmed with a daisy garland and a scalloped lemon edge. Accessories include a mini backpack, a lace square, and a bowl of pastel treats.

A small puppy friend is also included, styled to match the scene with a tiny bucket hat and lemon shorts. Work in continuous rounds for most amigurumi parts, then switch to joined rounds for neat clothing edges where noted. Keep tension firm so the stitches look like the photo and stuffing does not show through.

Materials and Tools

• Yarn: DK/light worsted cotton or cotton-blend for crisp stitch definition.
• Colors: A (Cream/Vanilla), B (Lemon Yellow), C (White), D (Soft Pink for embroidery), E (Light Brown), F (Dark Brown), plus small scraps in pastel colors for treats (mint, blush, lilac).
• Hook: 2.5 mm or size that creates tight fabric with your yarn.
• Notions: 10–12 mm black safety eyes for bunny, 6–7 mm black safety eyes for puppy.
• Polyester fiberfill, stitch markers, tapestry needle, pins, scissors.
• Buttons: 2–3 small cream buttons (about 10–12 mm) for cardigan front.
• Optional blush powder or pink pastel for cheeks (surface only).

Finished Size and Gauge Notes

With DK cotton and a 2.5 mm hook, the bunny sits about 8–10 in (20–25 cm) tall including the hat brim, matching the photo’s proportions. The puppy stands about 3–4 in (7–10 cm). Exact size depends on yarn, hook, and stuffing firmness, so prioritize shape and ratios over inches.

For the clean “store-bought” look, use tight single crochet and consistent stuffing. If your stitches look taller or looser than the image, reduce hook size. If the fabric feels stiff and hard to sew, increase hook slightly, but keep the stitch holes small and even.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in same st)
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• blo = back loop only
• flo = front loop only
• RS/WS = right side/wrong side

Stitch and Construction Notes

Unless stated, work in continuous rounds and move your marker each round. Use invisible decreases for smooth shaping, especially on the head and limbs. Stuff firmly in small amounts, shaping with your fingers as you go. Clothing pieces are made to fit snugly over the stuffed doll, so avoid over-stuffing the torso.

Color changes should be clean and placed at the end of the previous stitch. For a neat look, switch color on the last yarn-over of the prior stitch. When sewing appliqués, use small, even whip stitches and keep stitches hidden in the crocheted texture, especially around the daisies on the hem.

Color Guide for This Design

• A Cream/Vanilla: bunny head, body, ears, arms, legs, hat base, cardigan, backpack, doily.
• B Lemon Yellow: dress bodice and skirt, scalloped hem edge, puppy shorts.
• C White: daisy petals on hat, cardigan, skirt garland.
• D Soft Pink: bunny nose and mouth embroidery; light blush details.
• E Light Brown: puppy head and ears main color.
• A/C mix: puppy muzzle in cream/white, shirt in cream.

Parts List

• Bunny: head, body, 2 ears, 2 arms, 2 legs with slippers, tail (optional small puff).
• Outfit: dress (bodice + skirt), scalloped hem, daisy garland, cardigan, hat + flower.
• Accessories: backpack, lace square, bowl, 5–7 mini treats.
• Puppy: head, muzzle, 2 ears, body, 2 arms, 2 legs, shorts, hat.

Bunny Head (Color A)

The bunny has a wide, softly rounded head with low-set safety eyes and a tiny pink nose/mouth, matching the photo. Keep increases evenly spaced to avoid angles. Stuff firmly so the cheeks look full, then add subtle blush after assembly for the gentle “babydoll” expression.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
9. R9–R16: sc around (48)

Insert safety eyes between R12 and R13, about 10–11 stitches apart (center to center). Place them slightly low to match the photo’s sweet face. Begin stuffing, shaping the forehead and cheeks. Continue stuffing as you close, keeping the face round rather than oval.

1. R17: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42)
2. R18: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36)
3. R19: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
4. R20: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
5. R21: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
6. R22: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
7. R23: dec x6 (6)
8. Fasten off, close hole, weave in.

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Bunny Ears (Make 2, Color A)

The ears are soft and droop down under the hat brim, visible on both sides of the face. They are longer than the head’s height from eye-line to chin, but not overly thin. Lightly stuff only at the base so they keep a flat, floppy shape like the photo.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
3. R3: sc around (9)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12)
5. R5–R7: sc around (12)
6. R8: (3 sc, inc) x3 (15)
7. R9–R18: sc around (15)

Flatten the last round so the opening becomes an oval. Do not close yet. If you want a slightly wider ear like the photo, add one more round at 15 stitches before finishing. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing, and keep the ear flat by pressing it between your fingers.

Bunny Body (Torso) (Color A)

The torso is a short cylinder with gentle shaping that supports the dress bodice and cardigan. The bunny sits with legs forward, so keep the lower torso firm. The neckline is slightly narrower than the widest part, helping the head sit naturally without wobbling.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
7. R7–R10: sc around (36)
8. R11: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
9. R12–R14: sc around (30)
10. R15: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
11. R16–R18: sc around (24)

Stuff firmly, shaping a smooth belly but avoiding a hard “ball.” The dress will cover the torso, so keep the silhouette neat. Fasten off leaving a long tail if you prefer sewing the body to the head later, or close the top later after neck shaping if you want extra stability.

Bunny Arms (Make 2, Color A)

The arms are simple and slightly tapered, meant to rest at the sides under the cardigan sleeves. They do not need fingers. Keep stuffing light so they bend gently, matching the relaxed pose in the image. The hands are rounded rather than pointed.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
3. R3–R6: sc around (9)
4. R7: (sc, dec) x3 (6)
5. R8–R16: sc around (6)

Stuff the hand area, then very lightly up the arm. Flatten the top and sc across to close, or leave open if you prefer sewing into the armhole. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. Make sure both arms match length so the cardigan sits evenly.

Bunny Legs and Slipper Feet (Make 2, Color A)

The feet in the photo look like soft slippers with horizontal texture and a rounded toe. To mimic that, you will build a foot, then add a few ridged rounds using blo. The legs are short and thick so the bunny can sit balanced with feet forward.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5–R6: sc around (24)

Create slipper ridges by working a few rounds in blo. This makes gentle horizontal lines like the photo’s shoe texture. Stuff the toe firmly so it stays round. Keep the bottom flat enough for sitting, but the toe should still bulge slightly forward.

1. R7: blo sc around (24)
2. R8: sc around (24)
3. R9: blo sc around (24)
4. R10: sc around (24)
5. R11: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
6. R12: sc around (18)
7. R13: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
8. R14: sc around (12)
9. R15–R22: sc around (12)

Stuff the foot and lower leg firmly, then medium stuffing above so the leg can angle forward for a sitting pose. Flatten the top and close with sc across, leaving a long tail for sewing. For the sitting posture, position legs slightly apart and angled outward like the photo.

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Optional Bunny Tail (Color A)

The tail is mostly hidden by the dress, so you can skip it if you want. If you include it, keep it small and round so it does not distort the skirt. A tiny puff adds a cute finish if you will photograph the bunny from the back.

• 6 sc in MR, then inc around (12). Sc 1 round (12). Dec around (6). Stuff lightly, close, and sew centered low on the back.

Dress Bodice (Color B)

The dress has a fitted bodice under the cardigan, then a full skirt that flares out. The bodice should sit smoothly over the torso without gaping. If your bunny torso is slightly larger, add a few stitches in the bodice rounds, but keep the armholes neat.

1. Ch 36 with Color B, join to form a ring (make sure chain is not twisted).
2. R1: sc around (36)
3. R2: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
4. R3: sc around (42)
5. R4: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
6. R5: sc around (48)

Shape armholes by splitting front and back. Mark 10 stitches for each armhole area on the sides, leaving 14 stitches front and 14 stitches back. Work back-and-forth rows over the front, then the back, to create a clean shoulder line that sits under the cardigan.

1. Front: Attach yarn at front marker, sc 14, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2–4: sc 14, ch 1, turn (3 more rows).
3. Back: Attach yarn at back marker, sc 14, ch 1, turn.
4. Row 2–4: sc 14, ch 1, turn (3 more rows).

Join shoulders: with RS facing, sew the top edges of front and back together at each shoulder for 3–4 stitches, leaving a neck opening. Rejoin yarn around the armholes and work one round of sc to tidy edges. The neckline should be comfortable but not loose, since the head is already attached later.

Dress Skirt (Color B)

The skirt in the photo is full and gently structured, with visible round lines and a soft flare. To recreate that, increase gradually and use a few blo rounds to create subtle ridges. The skirt should sit like a bell around the legs, leaving the slippers visible below.

Attach Color B to the lower edge of the bodice and work in joined rounds. Place increases evenly so the skirt stays circular. If you prefer more flare, add one extra increase round, but keep enough stability for the daisy garland to lay flat at the hem.

1. R1: sc around the bodice base (approx 48 sts)
2. R2: (7 sc, inc) around (approx 54)
3. R3: sc around
4. R4: (8 sc, inc) around
5. R5: blo sc around
6. R6: sc around
7. R7: (9 sc, inc) around
8. R8: sc around
9. R9: blo sc around
10. R10: sc around
11. R11: (10 sc, inc) around
12. R12: sc around

Continue 2–4 more rounds without increases until the skirt reaches just above the ankles when the bunny is seated. The photo shows a generous hem that covers the top of the legs but not the slippers. Finish the final round with even tension so the edge stays smooth for the scallop trim.

Scalloped Hem Edge (Color B)

The lemon scallop edging is visible under the white daisies in the photo. It creates a soft wavy outline along the skirt hem. Work this trim into the final skirt round. Keep scallops consistent and avoid pulling tight, or the hem will ruffle too much and the daisies won’t sit neatly.

1. Join Color B to skirt hem.
2. Work (sl st in next st, ch 2, 4 dc in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) repeatedly around.
3. Adjust: if spacing is off, occasionally skip one stitch between scallops to keep it even.
4. Fasten off and weave in neatly.

Large Daisy Appliqués for Skirt Hem (Make 7–9, Colors C and B)

The skirt features a garland of large daisies with white petals and yellow centers, spaced around the front and sides. In the photo, the daisies are prominent and slightly overlapping, forming a decorative band above the scallop edge. Make enough daisies to cover most of the visible hem.

1. Center (Color B): 6 sc in MR, join with sl st (6).
2. Petals (Color C): (sl st in next st, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st) = 1 petal.
3. Repeat petal sequence in each of the 6 center stitches for 6 petals total.
4. Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.

For a fuller daisy like the photo, add a second petal layer between the first petals. Rejoin Color C between petals and repeat the petal sequence into the gaps. This creates a more dimensional flower that reads clearly on camera and matches the thick, soft look of the skirt garland.

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Small Daisy Appliqués for Cardigan (Make 2–3, Colors C and B)

The cardigan in the photo has small daisies near the lower corners. These should be smaller than the skirt daisies so the jacket stays delicate. Use fewer petals and a smaller center. Keep them flat so they sit smoothly when the cardigan is buttoned.

1. Center (Color B): 5 sc in MR, join (5).
2. Petals (Color C): (sl st, ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st) in each stitch around for 5 petals.
3. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Cardigan (Color A)

This cardigan is short and rounded at the front edges, with a simple collar and small buttons down the center. The sleeves are fitted and end at the wrist area. The look should be clean and minimal so the dress and flowers stay the focus, just like the photo’s soft, boutique styling.

Cardigan Back Panel

Work in rows. The back panel should cover the upper torso and end at the waistline of the dress. If your tension differs, test-fit by wrapping the panel around the bunny’s back. You want it snug but not tight, and it should not push the dress bodice downward.

1. Ch 26, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (25). Ch 1, turn.
2. Rows 2–10: sc across (25). Ch 1, turn.

Cardigan Front Panels (Left and Right)

Each front panel is narrower than the back, with a curved lower corner. The photo shows rounded edges that soften the look. Shape the curve using short rows and decreases near the bottom. Keep the top edges straight so the neckline and collar sew cleanly.

1. Left Front: Ch 14, sc across (13). Ch 1, turn.
2. Rows 2–8: sc across (13). Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 9: dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec (11). Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 10: sc across (11). Ch 1, turn.
5. Row 11: dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec (9). Ch 1, turn.
6. Row 12: sc across (9). Fasten off.

1. Right Front: Repeat as Left Front, but keep the curved corner mirrored when sewing.

Join Shoulder Seams

Place back panel between the two front panels at the top edges. Sew shoulder seams for about 4 stitches on each side, leaving the neck opening in the center. The shoulder seams should align smoothly so the cardigan sits flat under the hat brim and does not bunch near the bunny’s cheeks.

Cardigan Sleeves (Make 2, Color A)

Sleeves are crocheted in rounds directly into the armholes for a neat, fitted look. This approach helps the cardigan hug the doll, matching the photo’s tailored shape. If you prefer, you can crochet sleeves separately and sew them on, but working into the armhole gives cleaner transitions.

1. Attach yarn around armhole, pick up 18–20 sc evenly, join.
2. Round 1–6: sc around.
3. Round 7: (7 sc, dec) around to taper slightly.
4. Round 8–10: sc around.
5. Finish with a tight round of sl st for a crisp cuff, then fasten off.

Cardigan Edging and Collar

Work an edging around the full front opening, neckline, and hem to make the cardigan look finished. The collar in the photo is subtle, formed by a slightly thicker neckline edge. Keep the edging even and avoid stretching the front panels, so the buttons line up neatly and the cardigan closes smoothly.

1. Attach Color A at lower hem corner.
2. Sc evenly up the front edge, placing 1 sc per row end.
3. At neckline, work 2 sc in each corner to round smoothly.
4. Continue down the other front edge and across the hem.
5. Optional collar: work one more round of sc around neckline only.

Button Placement and Button Loops

The cardigan shows small cream buttons down the front, spaced vertically. Use 2 buttons for a minimal look or 3 for a more detailed finish like the photo. Instead of true buttonholes, use chain loops on the right front edge so the fabric stays tidy and does not stretch out.

• Mark button positions on the left front panel: one near upper chest, one mid, one near lower edge.
• On the right front panel, sew small loops: attach yarn, ch 6–8, sl st back into edge at the matching height.
• Sew buttons securely with matching thread or yarn.

Attach Small Daisies to Cardigan

Sew 1 small daisy to each lower front corner, similar to the photo placement. Keep them slightly above the hem edging so they do not get hidden by the dress skirt. If you used three buttons, you can add an optional third daisy on one side for an asymmetrical “designer” detail.

Bucket Hat for Bunny (Color A)

The bunny wears a soft bucket hat with a downturned brim. The brim frames the face and partially covers the ears, which is a key detail in the photo. The hat should sit low, just above the eyes, without pushing the eyes downward. Adjust depth by adding or removing one round before the brim.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
8. R8–R12: sc around (42)

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Test-fit the hat on the bunny head. It should slide on smoothly and sit snug without stretching. If it feels loose, reduce one increase round earlier. If it feels tight, add 6 stitches by increasing evenly in one round. Once depth is correct, begin the brim shaping.

1. R13: blo sc around (42) to create a clean brim fold line.
2. R14: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
3. R15: sc around (48)
4. R16: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)
5. R17: sc around (54)
6. R18: sl st around for a firm edge, fasten off.

Hat Flower Appliqué (Colors C and B)

The hat has a large white flower with a yellow center placed on the right side of the brim/crown area. This is a defining feature in the photo, so make it bold and clean. Keep the petals rounded and slightly puffy. Sew it securely so it stays flat without curling.

1. Center (Color B): 6 sc in MR, join (6).
2. Petals (Color C): In each stitch, (sl st, ch 4, 2 dc, ch 4, sl st) to create 6 large petals.
3. Optional puff: add a second round of sl st around the center with Color B for thickness.
4. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Sew the flower to the hat on the bunny’s right side (viewer’s left in many photos), slightly above the brim edge. Stitch through the center and a few petal bases so it cannot droop. The flower should be clearly visible even when the hat brim casts a shadow.

Backpack (Color A)

The mini backpack in the photo is boxy with a flap and a small front pocket. It has two short loop straps on top and looks structured. Use tight stitches and light stuffing or a folded felt insert if you want it to hold shape. Keep seams crisp so it photographs like a tiny real bag.

Backpack Body

1. Base: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch and across (12).
2. Work around the rectangle: 3 sc in last ch, sc along underside, 3 sc in last, join. (Approx 28)
3. Round 2: blo sc around to form sharp base edge.
4. Rounds 3–10: sc around for height.
5. Fasten off, leave tail for closing top edge later.

Backpack Flap

The flap is a rounded rectangle that covers the opening and extends down the front. It should be slightly wider than the body front so it looks like the photo’s soft, padded flap. Add a gentle curve by decreasing at the corners over the last rows.

1. Ch 13, sc across (12). Ch 1, turn.
2. Rows 2–6: sc across (12). Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 7: dec, sc to last 2, dec (10). Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 8: sc across (10). Fasten off.

Front Pocket

1. Ch 9, sc across (8). Ch 1, turn.
2. Rows 2–4: sc across (8). Fasten off.
3. Sew pocket centered on front, leaving top open.

Straps and Assembly

Create two small loop straps like the photo. Keep them short and stiff so they stand slightly. Sew them to the top back edge. Attach the flap to the top back seam, then sew sides of the flap lightly so it sits centered. Add a tiny loop-and-button closure if desired, but keep it minimal.

• Straps: ch 10, sl st back along chain. Make 2.
• Sew straps to top back edge, spaced evenly.
• Sew flap to back top edge, then let it drape forward.

Lace Square (Doily) (Color A)

The lace square in the photo is a small cream mat with open holes and scalloped edging. It looks like a decorative napkin for the picnic scene. Work in joined rounds with chain spaces. Keep it flat by using relaxed tension on chains and blocking lightly at the end.

1. R1: MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, join (12 dc).
2. R2: ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each dc around, join (24).
3. R3: ch 3, (dc, ch 1) around, join.
4. R4: ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 space, join.

Add a scalloped edge that looks like the photo’s soft wavy border. Keep scallops small and consistent. If the square begins to ripple, reduce stitches in the scallop by one dc. If it cups, loosen tension or add one more chain between scallops.

1. Edge: (sl st, ch 2, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, sl st) repeat around.
2. Fasten off and weave in.

Mini Bowl (Color A) and Pastel Treats

The photo shows a small bowl holding pastel round treats, similar to macarons or cookies. The bowl is shallow and slightly flared. Make the bowl in cream and add 5–7 tiny treats in soft colors. Keep treats small so they fit neatly and look abundant without overflowing.

Bowl

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: blo sc around (18) to create a base edge.
5. R5: sc around (18)
6. R6: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24) for a gentle flare.
7. R7: sc around (24), sl st around, fasten off.

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Mini Treat (Make 5–7 in Pastel Colors)

Each treat is a tiny, flat sandwich shape. To mimic a macaron look, make two small circles and join them with a thin “filling” ridge. Use different colors for variety like the photo. Keep stuffing minimal or none, so they stay flat and stack nicely in the bowl.

1. Circle: 6 sc in MR, then inc around (12). Sl st to join, fasten off.
2. Make 2 circles per treat in the same color.
3. Filling: with a contrasting tiny scrap, sew a short line around the edge between circles, lightly gathering.
4. Stack circles and stitch together around the edge with small stitches.

Puppy Friend (Matching Scene Companion)

The puppy is a small amigurumi with a cream muzzle, brown head, and floppy ears. It wears a tiny cream bucket hat and lemon shorts, matching the bunny’s outfit colors. The puppy is intentionally simple so it looks cute next to the larger bunny without competing for attention.

Puppy Head (Color E)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5–R8: sc around (24)

Insert 6–7 mm safety eyes between R6 and R7, about 6 stitches apart. Add the muzzle before closing the head so you can anchor it firmly. Stuff the head as you decrease, shaping it slightly rounded with a gentle snout area in front.

1. R9: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
2. R10: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
3. R11: dec x6 (6)
4. Fasten off, close hole, weave in.

Puppy Muzzle (Color A)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
3. R3: sc around (9)
4. Fasten off with a long tail.

Sew muzzle centered below the eyes, slightly lower than mid-face. Lightly stuff the muzzle before closing the last stitches so it stands out. Embroider a small nose with dark brown yarn and add a short mouth line, keeping it tiny and neat like the photo’s simple expression.

Puppy Ears (Make 2, Color E)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: (sc, inc) x3 (9)
3. R3–R5: sc around (9)
4. Flatten and sew to the sides of the head, slightly below eye level.

Puppy Body (Shirt Base, Color A)

The puppy’s shirt appears cream in the photo, with lemon shorts over it. Build a simple body cylinder in cream, then add shorts separately. Keep the body short so the proportions stay chubby and cute. Stuff firmly enough to stand, but allow a slight lean like a plush.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4–R7: sc around (18)
5. R8: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
6. R9–R10: sc around (12)
7. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing to head.

Puppy Arms (Make 2, Color A)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2–R4: sc around (6)
3. Stuff lightly, flatten top, fasten off with sewing tail.

Puppy Legs (Make 2, Color A)

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: sc around (12)
4. R4: (sc, dec) x4 (8)
5. R5–R8: sc around (8)
6. Stuff, flatten top, fasten off with sewing tail.

Puppy Shorts (Color B)

The shorts are lemon yellow and sit like a diaper cover, matching the bunny dress color. They should cover the lower body and upper legs, leaving white/cream feet visible. Make them snug so they do not slide. Add a simple waistband ridge for a clean finish.

1. Ch 18, join to form a ring.
2. R1: sc around (18)
3. R2: blo sc around (18) for waistband ridge.
4. R3: sc around (18)
5. Split for leg holes: sc 9, ch 2, skip 2, sc 7, ch 2, skip 2, join.
6. Work one round of sc around each leg hole, fasten off.

Puppy Bucket Hat (Color A)

The puppy hat is a tiny version of the bunny’s bucket hat. Keep the brim short so it does not cover the eyes. The photo shows a simple neutral hat without extra decoration. Work a shallow crown and a small brim with one increase round so it flares gently.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. R2: inc x6 (12)
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4–R6: sc around (18)
5. R7: blo sc around (18)
6. R8: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
7. R9: sc around (24), sl st edge, fasten off.

Assembly Order

Assemble the bunny first so you can test-fit the dress, cardigan, and hat. Then build the accessories and puppy. Use pins to position parts before sewing, especially ears and limbs. The photo’s charm comes from symmetrical placement: the hat sits level, the cardigan closes evenly, and the skirt daisies form a balanced garland.

• Sew bunny ears to head first, positioned low on the sides so they droop under the hat brim.
• Sew head to torso with strong stitches, ensuring the face looks straight forward.
• Sew legs to lower torso, angled forward for a seated pose.
• Sew arms at the sides, slightly forward so the hands rest near the skirt.

Daisy Garland Placement on Skirt

Arrange 7–9 large daisies evenly around the skirt hem, focusing coverage on the front and sides as shown in the photo. Slightly overlap petals so the garland looks continuous. Stitch each flower through the yellow center and a few petal bases. Keep stitches hidden so the daisies appear “attached” cleanly.

• Pin all daisies first, then step back and check spacing.
• Ensure the garland sits just above the lemon scallop edge.
• Secure each daisy with multiple passes through the center for durability.

Dress and Cardigan Dressing

Slide the dress onto the bunny from the feet upward. Gently pull the bodice into place and align armholes. Then slip on the cardigan, guiding sleeves over the arms. Close the cardigan with the button loops. The cardigan should sit at the waistline so the skirt flares freely and the daisy hem stays visible.

Place the hat last. Tuck the ears under the brim so they show on both sides of the face like the photo. Adjust the hat flower position so it sits on the bunny’s right side. If the hat feels loose, add a small hidden chin tack stitch behind one ear to keep it stable during display.

Accessory Styling

The mini backpack sits beside the bunny and reads clearly because of its flap and pocket. Keep it upright by lightly stuffing it or inserting a folded scrap of fabric. Place the lace square and the bowl of treats close by for a cozy picnic scene. Small items photograph best when clustered tightly.

• Backpack: shape corners with your fingers and flatten the base.
• Doily: lightly block flat and let it dry before styling.
• Bowl: add treats after weaving in ends, then stitch one treat in place if needed.

Puppy Assembly

Sew the puppy head to the body, then attach arms and legs. Put on the lemon shorts and adjust them so the leg holes sit evenly. Add the tiny hat and position it slightly back so the puppy’s eyes remain visible. Place the puppy near the bunny’s right foot, matching the photo’s arrangement.

• Sew muzzle first, then embroider nose and mouth.
• Attach ears symmetrically and slightly drooped.
• Use firm stitching at the neck so the head stays upright.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Embroider the bunny nose with soft pink yarn: make a tiny triangle or small “V” shape centered between the eyes, then add a short vertical stitch downward and a tiny smile line. Add light blush on the cheeks. Keep facial details minimal so the expression stays gentle and matches the photo.

Check that buttons are secure and that the cardigan edges align. Make sure the daisy garland is evenly spaced and lies flat. Adjust the hat brim so it frames the face without covering the eyes. If the skirt tips forward, reduce stuffing in the lower torso or reposition legs slightly wider.

Care Notes

Hand wash gently in cool water with mild soap. Do not soak for long, especially if you used metal button shanks. Press water out with a towel instead of wringing. Reshape the hat brim, skirt hem, and ears while damp, then air dry flat away from strong sunlight to preserve color.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Safety eyes locked and secure, backs firmly snapped in place.
• Head centered on torso, face pointing straight forward.
• Legs attached evenly for a stable seated pose.
• Skirt scallops even, daisy garland flat and balanced.
• Cardigan closes neatly, buttons and loops aligned.
• Hat sits low but does not cover eyes; flower attached firmly.
• All ends woven in and trimmed cleanly.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, dust with a soft brush and store away from humidity. If the doll will be handled often, consider spot cleaning only and avoid rubbing the blush area. To preserve shape, store the bunny sitting upright with the skirt spread naturally, and keep accessories in a small bag so they do not snag petals.