Toadflax Lemon-Lane Bunny – Knitting

This sweet knitted bunny set is designed to look like a soft heirloom rabbit dressed for a spring walk, complete with a bonnet, cardigan, floral dress, Mary Jane shoes, lemon-shaped purse, tiny postcard, lavender bouquet, lemon slice, and a small mouse friend. It has the charm of a collectible knitted doll, nursery decor piece, and handmade gift item all at once. If you love searching for knitted bunny dolls, artisan stuffed animals, spring rabbit decor, or heirloom toy patterns, this design brings that same boutique look into your own knitting.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This design creates a standing bunny with a rounded head, long hanging ears, a simple embroidered face, softly filled limbs, and a proportionally short body hidden under a dress and cardigan. The finished bunny is dressed in pale, dusty spring tones, with a gentle handmade look that matches the image closely.

The bunny is the main figure, but the full set also includes several styled extras placed around it. To match the image as faithfully as possible, this pattern includes instructions for the bunny, its clothes, the mouse companion, the mouse bonnet, the tiny mouse dress, and the tabletop accessories.

The overall finish should feel neat, refined, and lightly vintage. Use smooth yarn with strong stitch definition, because the visible knit columns, edges, and small shaping details are important to the final look. Keep stuffing even and firm enough for the figures to stand with support.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 13 to 15 inches tall from feet to top of bonnet
• Mouse companion: about 4 to 5 inches tall
• Lemon purse: about 3 inches wide
• Lavender bouquet: about 3 inches long
• Postcard: about 2 inches wide
• Lemon slice: about 1 inch wide

Your exact size will vary depending on yarn weight, needle choice, and how firmly you stuff the toys.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light beige for head, body, arms, legs, and ears
• Bonnet and cardigan yarn: soft cream
• Dress yarn: muted sage green
• Dress motif yarn: purple, yellow, olive green
• Shoe yarn: warm taupe or cocoa brown
• Purse yarn: soft lemon yellow and a little green
• Mouse yarn: pale gray, cream, and a tiny amount of pink
• Embroidery thread: black for eyes, brown for nose and mouth, pastel shades for postcard details
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Needles: double-pointed needles or magic loop needles suitable for tight toy knitting
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Small buttons: three yellow buttons for the dress front
• Thin craft wire or pipe cleaner: optional for bouquet stems
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas: optional base insert for postcard
• Lightweight floral cotton scrap: optional for the mouse dress if you want the closest visual match

Suggested Gauge

Work at a tight toy gauge so the stuffing does not show through. For most knitters, this means choosing needles smaller than you would normally use for the yarn.

• Toy fabric: about 8 to 9 stitches per inch in stockinette
• Clothing: about 7 to 8 stitches per inch in stockinette

A firm fabric matters more than matching an exact gauge number.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• Ssk = slip, slip, knit
• Rep = repeat
• BOR = beginning of round
• BO = bind off
• pm = place marker

Construction Notes

The bunny is worked in separate pieces and sewn together. Legs and arms are knitted flat or in the round, stuffed, and attached after the torso and head are complete. The face is embroidered after the head is stuffed and shaped.

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The dress is knitted separately from the hem upward. The cardigan is open at the front. The bonnet is shaped to sit low over the forehead, with soft side flaps framing the ears. Small accessories are finished after the main doll is dressed.

Main Bunny Legs

Make 2 in light beige.

1. CO 14 sts and divide for working in the round, or work flat if preferred and seam later.
2. Work 6 rounds in 1×1 rib for the ankle section.
3. Change to stockinette and work 14 rounds even.
4. Begin gentle thigh shaping: round 1, K1, Kfb, knit to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1.
5. Work 3 rounds even.
6. Rep the increase round once more. You should now have 18 sts.
7. Work even until the leg measures about 4 inches.
8. Stuff the lower leg firmly and the upper leg more lightly.
9. Flatten top opening and leave a long tail for sewing.

The legs in the image are slim and straight, not oversized. Keep them narrow through the ankle, with only a little extra width near the top so the dress falls smoothly over them.

Main Bunny Body

Work in light beige.

1. CO 24 sts and join for working in the round.
2. Work 4 rounds even.
3. Increase evenly to 30 sts.
4. Work 6 rounds even.
5. Increase evenly to 36 sts.
6. Work 8 rounds even for the tummy area.
7. Decrease shaping: K4, K2tog around. Work 1 round even.
8. Next decrease round: K3, K2tog around.
9. Work 2 rounds even.
10. The torso should now look softly oval, slightly wider at the lower half and narrower near the shoulders.
11. Stuff firmly, especially at the lower body.
12. Close the top or leave live stitches if you prefer grafting to the head opening.

The body should be shorter than the head and mostly hidden by the dress. Do not make the torso long. The visual balance in the image comes from a large head, compact body, and moderately long legs.

Main Bunny Arms

Make 2 in light beige.

1. CO 12 sts and work in the round.
2. Work 5 rounds in 1×1 rib for the wrist.
3. Continue in stockinette for 16 to 18 rounds.
4. Increase 2 sts evenly once near the upper arm if needed.
5. Work 4 more rounds.
6. Stuff the paw area firmly and the upper arm lightly.
7. Flatten opening and leave tail for sewing.

The arms hang straight down at the sides and end around hip level. They should be slender, with very soft shaping and no defined elbows.

Main Bunny Head

Work in light beige.

1. CO 12 sts and divide evenly for working in the round.
2. Round 1: Kfb in every stitch. 24 sts.
3. Round 2: K all.
4. Round 3: K1, Kfb around. 36 sts.
5. Round 4: K all.
6. Round 5: K2, Kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Round 6: K all.
8. Round 7: K3, Kfb around. 60 sts.
9. Work even until the head is almost spherical, about 18 to 20 rounds depending on gauge.
10. Begin decreases: K3, K2tog around.
11. Work 1 round even.
12. Next decrease: K2, K2tog around.
13. Work 1 round even.
14. Next decrease: K1, K2tog around.
15. Stuff very firmly before the opening becomes too small.
16. Final decrease: K2tog around. Draw closed.

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Before closing fully, shape the muzzle slightly with your fingers so the lower face is softly rounded rather than perfectly circular. The image shows a gentle, full muzzle with a small embroidered nose placed low on the face.

Main Bunny Ears

Make 2 in light beige. Work flat.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K.
3. Row 2: P.
4. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row until you have 18 sts.
5. Work straight for about 18 rows.
6. Begin tapering: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 on RS rows.
7. On WS rows, purl all stitches.
8. Continue until 6 sts remain.
9. K2tog across to 3 sts, then BO.

Make the ears soft, not stuffed. Fold the base slightly before sewing so each ear hangs downward from beneath the bonnet. In the image, the ears are broad at the base, narrow gently, and sit close to the head.

Face Shaping and Embroidery

Mark eye placement before stitching. The eyes are tiny black vertical ovals placed evenly apart and slightly above the nose line. Use satin stitch or a few repeated straight stitches to create the same small dark feature.

For the nose, use brown embroidery and make a tiny Y-shaped center line. Start with a short vertical stitch at the base of the muzzle, then work two angled lines upward to form a soft split nose. Extend a short line downward for the mouth.

Use a little sculpting thread if needed to define the muzzle center. Keep the face very minimal. The expression in the image comes from restraint, not extra details.

Assembly of Bunny Base

1. Sew the head to the body securely, making sure it faces straight forward.
2. Sew the legs to the lower body so the bunny can stand with support.
3. Sew the arms at shoulder level, angled slightly downward.
4. Attach ears to the sides of the head, slightly behind the eye line.
5. Check symmetry before fastening off completely.

The bunny should look stable and centered. The neck area is mostly hidden by the dress collar and cardigan, so neat but simple joining is fine.

Sage Dress

This dress is the key visual feature. It has a rounded collar, front placket with three yellow buttons, floral hem motifs, and a scalloped lower edge. Work it separately from the hem upward.

Dress Skirt and Hem

1. With sage green, CO enough stitches to fit around the bunny body with a lightly gathered look. For most gauges, 72 to 84 sts works well.
2. Work 4 rows in a scallop base pattern: alternate short lace eyelets and decreases to suggest the curved hem.
3. Continue in stockinette for 8 rows.
4. Begin floral border placement using duplicate stitch or simple stranded motifs.

Across the lower front, place small upright flowers in purple with yellow centers and olive stems. Space them evenly. The image shows three main floral groupings visible from the front, with tiny yellow blossoms between them.

After the motif section, continue knitting upward in plain sage stockinette until the skirt reaches just below the bunny knees. The skirt should flare slightly, not cling closely.

Dress Bodice

1. Reduce stitches evenly to shape the waist.
2. Work even for 6 rows.
3. Separate for front opening if working flat from this point.
4. Create a narrow center placket with a tidy edge.
5. Work armhole shaping on each side.
6. Work front and back to shoulder height.
7. Join shoulders neatly.

The bodice should sit smoothly beneath the cardigan. Do not make it bulky. It needs only enough structure to show the front buttons and support the collar.

Dress Collar

1. Pick up stitches around the neckline with sage green.
2. Work a rounded Peter Pan collar in short rows or shaped flat pieces.
3. Increase gently at the outer edges so the collar lies flat.
4. BO loosely after 4 to 6 rows.

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The collar in the image is rounded, soft, and sits outside the cardigan neckline. It should frame the face without rising up around the neck.

Dress Front Buttons

Sew three tiny yellow buttons vertically on the front placket. Space them evenly. They are decorative but visually important, so place them with care.

Cream Cardigan

The cardigan is short, open-front, and slightly cropped so the floral skirt remains visible. Sleeves are long with a delicate lace-like detail near the cuff.

1. With cream yarn, work the back piece first from lower edge upward.
2. CO to fit across the bunny back and work in stockinette.
3. Shape shallow armholes and slight shoulder slope.
4. Make two front pieces separately, each with a garter or seed-stitch edge for the opening bands.
5. Sew shoulders and side seams.
6. Pick up sleeve stitches around each armhole or sew in separate sleeves.

For the sleeve lace near the cuff, use a simple eyelet line framed by decreases and yarn-overs. Keep it subtle. The visible cuff detail is small and should not overpower the clean cardigan shape.

Finish the lower hem, front edges, and neckline with a tidy narrow border. The cardigan sits open and relaxed, ending around the waistline of the dress.

Bonnet

The bonnet is cream and shaped like a soft cloche with a rolled front edge and side flaps that fall low enough to partly cover the ears.

1. CO stitches for the crown circumference and work in the round.
2. Use a central decorative column with paired eyelets running from front to back.
3. Work several rounds even to form the dome.
4. Decrease gradually toward the crown top.
5. For the front edge, pick up stitches and work a rolled or folded brim.
6. For side coverage, extend the bonnet depth lower at each side using short rows or attached flaps.

The bonnet should sit low on the forehead, almost touching the eye line but not covering the face. The ears pass underneath and hang out below the side edges.

Shoes

Make 2 in warm taupe brown.

1. Work a flat oval sole first.
2. Pick up stitches around the sole and knit upward for the shoe sides.
3. Shape a rounded toe with short rows or decreases.
4. Leave an opening at the instep.
5. Add a narrow strap across the front to create the Mary Jane look.

The shoes in the image are soft, rounded, and slightly loose over the bunny feet. They are not glossy or structured. Keep them simple and sweet.

Lemon Purse

This purse sits to the left of the bunny and is shaped like a whole lemon with a handle.

1. With pale yellow, knit two lemon-shaped panels by increasing from a narrow tip to a fuller center, then decreasing again.
2. Sew the panels together, leaving room for light stuffing.
3. Add a small green calyx detail at one end.
4. Knit or crochet a slim yellow handle and attach it firmly.

The purse should look softly flattened rather than perfectly round. It resembles a whimsical market bag made to echo the postcard name.

Lemon Slice

1. Knit a small wedge shape in cream.
2. Add yellow duplicate-stitch segment lines radiating from the center.
3. Outline the curved edge with a slightly brighter yellow band.

This tiny piece adds charm to the arrangement and should be delicate and neat.

Postcard

The postcard is rectangular and cream, with embroidered blue writing and a tiny stamp area in the corner.

1. Knit a small rectangle in garter stitch or very firm stockinette with a neat border.
2. Insert thin cardboard or plastic canvas if you want it to hold shape.
3. Embroider the words Lemon Lane in blue script-style stitches.
4. Add pale address lines and a small yellow-and-blue stamp block.

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Keep the postcard slightly soft, not rigid like paper. It should still feel handmade.

Lavender Bouquet

1. Make several tiny stems using green i-cord or twisted yarn.
2. Knot or stitch on clusters of purple buds with a few pale yellow accents.
3. Gather the stems together and tie with a lavender yarn bow.

The bouquet should be petite and loose. The image shows rounded bud clusters rather than long pointed spikes, so keep the flowers compact.

Mouse Companion

The mouse is a tiny extra friend placed at the bunny’s right side. It has a gray knitted body, pink nose, tiny black eyes, round ears with pale inner sections, and a miniature cream bonnet.

Mouse Body

1. Work the body in pale gray as a simple narrow torso with a rounded head joined above it.
2. Keep proportions small and upright.
3. Make tiny arms and legs as narrow tubes.
4. Add a thin tail if desired.

Mouse Head Details

1. Embroider two tiny black eyes.
2. Add a soft pink nose.
3. Sew on two round ears with pale inner ear circles.

Mouse Bonnet

1. Knit a tiny cream bonnet with the same soft rounded shape as the bunny bonnet.
2. Keep it shallow and neat so the mouse ears still show.

Mouse Dress

To match the image most closely, dress the mouse in a tiny floral-print cotton dress. If you want to keep the entire set knitted, make a cream dress and embroider scattered floral dots in pink, yellow, lavender, and green.

The dress should be short, sleeveless or lightly capped, and softly gathered. The mouse clothing is secondary, so keep it simple and delicate.

Dressing the Bunny

1. Put the dress on first and close the front neatly.
2. Sew or tack the collar so it stays spread.
3. Add the cardigan on top and leave the front open.
4. Slip on the shoes.
5. Place the bonnet last and secure with a few hidden stitches if needed.

Arrange the ears so they fall naturally beneath the bonnet. The final silhouette should feel calm, balanced, and slightly storybook-like.

Styling Notes for an Accurate Finish

• Keep the bunny face simple and centered.
• Do not overstuff the ears.
• Use muted, dusty shades instead of bright primary colors.
• Let the cardigan stay open so the dress front buttons remain visible.
• Position the floral motifs only around the lower dress, not across the full bodice.
• Make the bonnet deep enough to cast a soft shadow over the upper face.
• Keep all accessories small relative to the bunny.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the body balance before closing every seam permanently. The head should sit straight, the legs should align evenly, and the arms should rest at matching heights. After dressing, adjust the collar, cardigan fronts, and bonnet edge so the layers frame the face cleanly.

Embroider the eyes last if needed for perfect placement. A tiny shift in eye position changes the whole expression. Keep the nose low, small, and softly forked. Avoid adding cheeks or extra shading if you want the same quiet look as the image.

Care Notes

Display this set away from direct sunlight to protect the gentle colors. If it is intended as decor, avoid rough handling of the smaller accessories. The postcard, bouquet, lemon slice, and purse are decorative details and may be best kept attached or stored together.

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Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Bunny head is round and proportionally larger than the torso
• Ears hang softly beneath the bonnet
• Dress has floral hem motifs and three yellow buttons
• Cardigan is short and open-front
• Bonnet sits low with a rolled front edge
• Shoes look like tiny Mary Janes
• Accessories match the scale of the bunny
• Mouse is noticeably smaller and lightly dressed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth whenever possible. For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cool water with mild soap, then press out moisture in a towel. Reshape the bunny, bonnet, cardigan, and dress while damp, and dry flat.

Do not wring the knitted pieces. Keep metal parts, cardboard inserts, and wired bouquet stems dry. If storing long term, wrap the set in clean tissue and place it in a breathable box so the fibers stay fresh and the shaping remains intact.