Belted-Coat Blossom Bunny – Knitting

This elegant bunny set captures the look of a collectible handmade bunny doll, complete with a belted coat, textured beret, Mary Jane shoes, flower bouquet, handbag, scalloped cloth, and a tiny koala companion in matching clothes. The finished set has the charm of a boutique knitted toy, the softness of a nursery keepsake, and the polished style people often search for when they want to buy a luxury knit bunny, heirloom stuffed rabbit, or handcrafted toy gift. Every visible detail in the photo is included so the finished piece feels refined, balanced, and beautifully styled.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: sport weight or light DK in warm cream.
• Coat and shoes: soft taupe-brown sport weight.
• Neck insert: medium gray sport weight.
• Beret: deep burgundy or wine red sport weight.
• Bag: dark forest green sport weight.
• Flowers: dusty pink, pale blush pink, and sage green.
• Cloth: white or soft ivory sport weight cotton.
• Koala: medium gray, pale gray, taupe, and burgundy.
• Needles: US 1.5 to 2.5 mm double-pointed needles or straight needles for small parts, and US 2 to 2.75 mm needles for garments.
• Notions: toy stuffing, tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn, sewing needle, black embroidery thread, dark brown embroidery thread, four tiny coat buttons, two very tiny shoe buttons or snaps, and one tiny button for the bag if desired.

Use the smaller needle whenever you want tighter fabric for the stuffed parts. Use the slightly larger needle for garments so the coat drapes softly without looking loose.

Finished Measurements

• Main bunny: about 12 inches tall from top of head to sole when standing.
• Seated height: about 8 to 8.5 inches.
• Koala companion: about 4.5 inches tall.
• Bag: about 2 inches wide.
• Bouquet: about 2 inches across.
• Cloth: about 2.25 inches square including scallops.

The photo shows a tall, slender bunny with a rounded head, narrow shoulders, long straight legs, small paws, soft drooping ears, and clothing that covers most of the torso. Keep the stuffing firm but not hard so the doll still looks gentle and slightly relaxed when seated.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch on the larger garment needle, work 28 stitches and 38 rows over 4 inches.

In stockinette stitch on the smaller needle for toy pieces, work 30 stitches and 40 rows over 4 inches.

Exact gauge matters most for the coat, shoes, beret, and accessory scale. The stuffed body is forgiving, but the proportions should stay close to the measurements above so the coat and shoes fit correctly.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• sl = slip
• rep = repeat
• inc = increase 1 stitch by lifting the bar between stitches
• dec = decrease 1 stitch

Notes Before You Begin

This design is worked mostly in separate pieces and seamed. That approach gives better control over the exact silhouette in the photo. The head stays round, the coat sits cleanly, and the ears hang in the correct direction instead of springing outward.

The main bunny body is intentionally slim because the coat adds volume. Do not overstuff the torso. The photo shows a refined shape, not a chubby plush. The thighs are lightly filled, the calves are straight, and the feet are neat so the Mary Jane shoes fit snugly.

The face is very simple. The expression comes from placement, not heavy detailing. Keep the eyes small, widely spaced, and slightly above the nose line. The nose and mouth form a clean stitched T-shape with soft diagonal lines leading outward.

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The coat is the visual centerpiece. Pay close attention to the length, the soft flare below the waist, the folded lapels, the four-button front, and the self-tie belt. The hem has a narrow two-color motif band that gives the lower edge a polished finish.

Main Bunny

Legs Make 2

Using cream and the smaller needle, CO 18 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 6: Work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row on WS.
2. Row 7 RS: k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 20 sts.
3. Rows 8 to 18: Continue in stockinette.
4. Row 19 RS: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 18 sts.
5. Rows 20 to 48: Continue in stockinette.
6. Rows 49 to 52: Work 4 rows in seed stitch for the ankle edge that helps the shoe sit in place.

Leave the stitches on waste yarn. Make the second leg the same. Seam each leg, stuff firmly at the foot and lightly through the calf. Keep the top 1 inch only lightly stuffed so the legs can be joined smoothly to the body.

Arms Make 2

Using cream and the smaller needle, CO 14 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette.
2. Row 5 RS: k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 16 sts.
3. Rows 6 to 24: Continue in stockinette.
4. Row 25 RS: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 14 sts.
5. Rows 26 to 34: Continue in stockinette.
6. Rows 35 to 36: Work 2 rows garter stitch.

BO. Seam and stuff lightly. The arms in the photo are slim and soft, not stiff. Leave the upper quarter of each arm almost unstuffed so they lie naturally under the coat sleeves.

Body

Using cream and the smaller needle, join the live stitches of both legs onto one needle with 4 sts cast on between them for the crotch. You now have 40 sts.

1. Row 1 WS: purl.
2. Rows 2 to 8: Work in stockinette.
3. Row 9 RS: k2, k2tog, knit to 18 sts before end, ssk, k4, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 36 sts.
4. Rows 10 to 18: Work in stockinette.
5. Row 19 RS: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 34 sts.
6. Rows 20 to 28: Work in stockinette.
7. Row 29 RS: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 32 sts.
8. Rows 30 to 42: Work in stockinette.

This section forms a narrow waist hidden under the belt. The lower body should remain straight, while the waist draws in softly. Do not over-reduce. The coat already gives shape, so the body only needs a subtle inward line.

1. Row 43 RS: k1, inc, knit to last st, inc, k1. 34 sts.
2. Rows 44 to 50: Work in stockinette.
3. Row 51 RS: k1, inc, knit to last st, inc, k1. 36 sts.
4. Rows 52 to 58: Work in stockinette.
5. BO 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows for armholes. 28 sts.
6. Rows 61 to 70: Work straight in stockinette.
7. Next row RS: k8, BO 12, k8.

Finish each shoulder separately for 2 rows, then BO remaining 8 sts on each side. Seam the body and stuff. Keep the seat firm enough so the bunny can sit. Keep the chest moderate so the coat front closes nicely without bulk.

Head Make 2

Using cream and the smaller needle, CO 22 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette.
2. Row 5 RS: k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 24 sts.
3. Row 7 RS: repeat increase row. 26 sts.
4. Row 9 RS: repeat increase row. 28 sts.
5. Rows 10 to 28: Work straight in stockinette.
6. Row 29 RS: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 26 sts.
7. Row 31 RS: repeat decrease row. 24 sts.
8. Row 33 RS: repeat decrease row. 22 sts.
9. Rows 34 to 38: Work straight.
10. BO.

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Seam the two head pieces together, leaving the lower neck edge open for stuffing. Stuff firmly and evenly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers as you fill. The photo shows a smooth face with slight fullness in the lower half and a gentle flattening at the top beneath the beret.

Ears Make 2

Using cream and the smaller needle, CO 10 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 6: Work in stockinette.
2. Row 7 RS: k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
3. Rows 8 to 16: Work straight.
4. Row 17 RS: k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
5. Rows 18 to 46: Work straight.
6. Row 47 RS: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 12 sts.
7. Rows 48 to 54: Work straight.
8. Row 55 RS: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 10 sts.
9. Rows 56 to 60: Work straight.
10. BO.

Fold each ear lengthwise with the seam at the back edge. Sew lightly. Do not stuff. Steam very gently or pat into shape. These ears should hang long and close to the face, ending around upper chest level once attached.

Head and Body Join

Sew the head to the neck opening with small firm stitches. Add extra stuffing at the base of the head before closing if the neck feels weak. The head in the photo sits centered and upright, with only a slight forward softness.

Facial Placement

Mark the eye line slightly above the midpoint of the head front. Place the eyes wide apart, about 7 to 8 stitches from the center line on each side. Use tiny black French knots or 5 mm safety eyes if you prefer.

For the nose, use dark brown thread. Stitch a short vertical line over 4 knitted rows. Add a tiny horizontal stitch across the top of that line, then form two neat angled mouth lines going down and out. The finished mouth should look delicate, calm, and symmetrical.

If you want more sculpting, make a tiny stitch under each eye and pull very gently. Keep this subtle. The face in the photo is smooth and clean, not deeply indented.

Gray Neck Insert

This piece creates the visible gray neckline under the coat. It is not bulky like a full sweater. It is closer to a small knitted yoke or mock turtleneck.

Using gray and the larger needle, CO 28 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work k1, p1 rib.
2. Rows 5 to 12: Work stockinette.
3. Rows 13 to 16: Work seed stitch.
4. BO loosely.

Sew into a ring. Slip it over the neck and tack it in place so the upper ribbed edge stands just above the coat neckline. The lower edge can be caught invisibly to the bunny chest.

Coat

The coat is worked in separate pieces for a crisp tailored look. It should fall below the bunny knees when the doll is seated. The hem flares slightly. The front edges fold back into lapels. The sleeves are narrow and end above the wrists.

Hem Motif

Use taupe as main color and cream as contrast. Work the following 4-row motif over any even number of stitches.

1. Row 1 RS: with taupe, k2, then rep k1 cream, k1 taupe to last 2 sts, k2 taupe.
2. Row 2 WS: purl all sts in the colors they appear.
3. Row 3 RS: with taupe, k1, then rep k1 taupe, k1 cream to last st, k1 taupe.
4. Row 4 WS: purl all sts in the colors they appear.

This produces the tiny dotted geometric band visible near the lower edge. Keep floats relaxed or use intarsia bobbins if you prefer an especially neat inside.

Back

Using taupe and the larger needle, CO 34 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work garter stitch.
2. Rows 5 to 8: Work Hem Motif.
3. Rows 9 to 42: Work stockinette.
4. Rows 43 and 44: BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows for armholes. 28 sts.
5. Rows 45 to 58: Work straight.
6. Row 59 RS: k8, BO 12, k8.
7. Work each shoulder separately for 2 rows, then BO 8 sts each side.

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Left Front

Using taupe, CO 22 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work garter stitch.
2. Rows 5 to 8: Work Hem Motif over all sts.
3. Rows 9 to 34: Work stockinette, keeping the first 4 sts in garter on RS and WS for the front band.
4. Row 35 RS: begin shaping the front flare by working k4, then k2tog, knit to end. 21 sts.
5. Rows 36 to 42: Continue as set.
6. Row 43 WS: BO 3 sts at beginning of row for armhole.
7. Rows 44 to 48: Continue straight.
8. Row 49 RS: k4, ssk, knit to end. This begins the lapel line.
9. Repeat the lapel decrease every 4th row 3 more times.
10. At the same time, when front matches back to shoulder, BO 8 shoulder sts at armhole edge.
11. Continue on remaining front-band sts for 6 more rows to form collar extension. BO.

Right Front

Work as for Left Front, reversing all shaping. Add 4 buttonholes spaced evenly along the front band. Each buttonhole is made by k1, yo, k2tog inside the band. Place the first just above the motif band and the last near the upper chest.

Sleeves Make 2

Using taupe, CO 18 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work garter stitch.
2. Rows 5 to 10: Work stockinette.
3. Row 11 RS: k1, inc, knit to last st, inc, k1. 20 sts.
4. Rows 12 to 18: Work straight.
5. Row 19 RS: k1, inc, knit to last st, inc, k1. 22 sts.
6. Rows 20 to 28: Work straight.
7. BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 16 sts.
8. Rows 31 to 34: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 on RS rows. Purl WS rows.
9. BO remaining sts.

The sleeves in the photo are slim and softly bent. They do not cover the paws fully. Once seamed and attached, turn the cuffs up just a little if you want the same gentle finish seen in the image.

Belt

Using taupe, CO 4 sts.

Work i-cord or narrow garter strip for 18 inches. BO. Tie in a simple knot at center front after the coat is sewn on. The belt should sit slightly above the coat midpoint so the skirt portion falls in a soft flare.

Collar Finish and Coat Assembly

Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew side seams and sleeve seams. Fold the collar extensions outward into lapels and tack lightly so they stay open. Sew the coat closed just enough under the belt if needed, but leave the lapel section open.

Sew on 4 tiny buttons to match the photo. The buttons sit down the front band, evenly spaced, with the lowest button above the hem motif and the highest button around upper torso level.

Place the coat on the bunny and stitch at the back neck and a few points under the arms. Wrap the belt around the waist, cross at the back, and tie at the front in a loose single knot with short tails.

Mary Jane Shoes Make 2

These shoes should look rounded and neat, with an open top and a narrow strap across the instep. Work them separately and sew onto the feet.

Using taupe and the smaller needle, CO 16 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 6: Work garter stitch for the sole.
2. Pick up 6 sts along one side, 16 across toe edge, and 6 along other side if working in the round, or continue flat by making a second matching sole and joining later. For simplicity, work flat upper as follows.
3. Upper piece: CO 18 sts.
4. Rows 1 to 8: Work stockinette.
5. Row 9 RS: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 16 sts.
6. Rows 10 to 12: Work straight.
7. Row 13 RS: BO 4, knit to last 4, BO 4. Center 8 sts remain.
8. Rows 14 to 18: Work center 8 sts only in stockinette for toe top. BO.

Sew the upper to the sole, shaping a rounded toe. Make a strap by CO 10 sts and work 2 rows garter. Sew one side to the shoe edge and fasten the other side with a tiny button or stitched buckle look. Slip onto the foot and sew in place.

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Beret

The beret is soft, slightly oversized, and angled to one side. It should sit low across the forehead and cover the upper base of the ears. Use burgundy and the larger garment needle.

CO 64 sts and join if working in the round, or work flat and seam later.

1. Rounds 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
2. Round 5: Increase evenly to 88 sts.
3. Rounds 6 to 10: Work stockinette.
4. Round 11: Begin texture panel. Rep this 8-st repeat 11 times: k2, p2, C4 front or back if you enjoy cables, or simply k4. The photo shows soft raised texture rather than sharp rope cables, so a gentle crossing every 6th round works well.
5. Rounds 12 to 22: Continue in stockinette, repeating the textured crossings every 6th round.
6. Round 23: k6, k2tog around. 77 sts.
7. Round 25: k5, k2tog around. 66 sts.
8. Round 27: k4, k2tog around. 55 sts.
9. Round 29: k3, k2tog around. 44 sts.
10. Round 31: k2, k2tog around. 33 sts.
11. Round 33: k1, k2tog around. 22 sts.
12. Round 35: k2tog around. 11 sts.

Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight. Add a tiny stem nub at the top by making a 3-st i-cord for 3 rounds and sewing it to the center. Steam lightly and shape so one side slouches. Sew to the head with a few hidden stitches.

Forest Green Handbag

Using forest green and the smaller needle, CO 14 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 18: Work in k1, p1 rib for a firm bag texture.
2. BO.

Fold in half and sew side seams to make a small rectangular bag. For the depth, stitch boxed corners at the lower edges. Make a handle by CO 18 sts and work 2 rows garter. Sew to the top sides in a soft arch.

The bag in the photo is simple, structured, and matte. Keep it plain. No tassels, no flap, and no extra embroidery.

Rose Bouquet

The bouquet contains several tiny rolled roses in two pink tones with small green bases. Make 6 to 8 roses for the fullest look.

Rose Strip Make 6 to 8

Using pink or blush and the smaller needle, CO 18 sts.

1. Row 1 WS: purl.
2. Row 2 RS: k1, kfb across to last st, k1. This makes a soft frill.
3. Row 3 WS: purl.
4. BO loosely on RS.

Roll each strip from one end into a spiral flower. Sew the base firmly. Make half in deeper pink and half in pale pink for the mixed bouquet shown in the photo.

Leaf Bases

Using sage green, CO 3 sts for each flower.

1. Row 1: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
2. Row 2: purl.
3. Row 3: k2tog, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
4. BO.

Sew one leaf base under each rose. Gather the flowers together and wrap the stems with green yarn. Tack into a bouquet cluster so it stays rounded rather than flat.

Scalloped Cloth

This small white cloth sits under the bouquet and bag. It resembles a handkerchief or tiny placemat with a softly scalloped edge.

Using white cotton yarn and the smaller needle, CO 16 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 18: Work garter stitch.
2. Next row RS: make scallops by working k2, yo, k2tog across.
3. Next row WS: knit.
4. BO loosely.

For a fuller scallop, crochet would be easier, but for this knitted version the eyelet row softens the edge nicely. Steam into a square with slightly rounded corners.

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Koala Companion

The koala is small, upright, and styled to echo the bunny. It wears a tiny gray upper section, a taupe belted lower coat or skirt section, and a matching burgundy beret. Keep the body compact so it looks like a miniature friend, not a second full doll.

Koala Legs and Body

Using medium gray and the smaller needle, make 2 legs exactly like this.

• CO 10 sts.
• Work 16 rows stockinette.
• Leave live.

Join the legs with 2 cast-on sts between them. 22 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 10: Work stockinette.
2. Row 11 RS: k2tog near each side edge to reduce to 20 sts.
3. Rows 12 to 18: Work straight.
4. BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows for armholes. 16 sts.
5. Rows 21 to 26: Work straight.
6. BO all sts.

Seam and stuff firmly. Keep the belly small and the lower body gently pear-shaped.

Koala Arms Make 2

CO 8 sts in gray. Work 12 rows stockinette. BO. Seam and stuff lightly.

Koala Head Make 2

CO 14 sts in gray.

1. Rows 1 to 2: Work stockinette.
2. Row 3 RS: k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 16 sts.
3. Row 5 RS: repeat increase row. 18 sts.
4. Rows 6 to 14: Work straight.
5. Row 15 RS: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 16 sts.
6. Row 17 RS: repeat decrease row. 14 sts.
7. BO after row 20.

Seam, stuff, and attach to body. The koala head should be rounder and slightly flatter than the bunny head.

Koala Ears Make 4

Using pale gray for inner pairs and medium gray for outer pairs, CO 6 sts.

1. Row 1: knit.
2. Row 2: purl.
3. Row 3: k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. 8 sts.
4. Rows 4 to 6: work stockinette.
5. Row 7: k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1. 6 sts.
6. BO after row 8.

Layer pale gray on top of medium gray and sew into rounded ears. Attach to the head sides.

Koala Face

Use tiny black knots for eyes. For the nose, embroider a filled oval or attach a small black knitted oval made from 4 sts over 3 rows. Keep the nose centered and slightly low, matching the photo.

Koala Outfit

The upper chest in the photo looks textured gray, while the lower garment is taupe and belted. Make a simple two-piece illusion.

Gray upper: CO 16 sts in gray. Work 8 rows seed stitch. BO and sew around upper body like a vest front.

Taupe lower coat: CO 20 sts in taupe. Work 2 rows garter, 12 rows stockinette, then BO. Wrap around the lower body and stitch at back. Make a tiny 12-inch cord belt and tie at front.

Koala Beret

Using burgundy, CO 32 sts. Work 2 rows rib, increase to 44 sts, work 8 rows stockinette, then decrease every other row in the same style as the bunny beret until 6 sts remain. Draw closed and sew on at a jaunty angle.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the bunny legs, arms, body, head, and ears.
2. Join head to body.
3. Add facial details.
4. Sew ears so they fall behind the cheeks.
5. Fit and secure the gray neck insert.
6. Assemble the coat and place it on the bunny.
7. Add buttons and tie the belt.
8. Sew on the shoes.
9. Attach the beret.
10. Make and arrange the bag, bouquet, and cloth.
11. Construct the koala and dress it.

When placing the accessories for display, set the bag on the bunny’s left side, the bouquet leaning forward on the cloth, and the koala on the right side tucked close to the bunny’s coat hem.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check that the bunny sits with both legs parallel and the feet angled slightly forward. If the coat rides up, tack the inside hem lightly to each leg. This keeps the drape smooth when displayed.

Before fixing the beret completely, test the angle. The front edge should dip low on one side, with the top leaning softly across the crown. Allow the ears to emerge from beneath it and fall straight down.

Keep the facial embroidery minimal. A tiny nose, neat center line, and short mouth are enough. If the expression looks too strong, reduce the thread thickness rather than moving the features.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from prolonged direct sunlight.
• Avoid hanging the bunny by the ears, sleeves, or belt.
• If gifting to a child, replace buttons with embroidered button details for extra safety.
• Store the bouquet and bag beside the doll instead of tying them permanently to the hands.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears the same length and sewn at the same height?
• Is the nose centered between the eyes?
• Does the coat button smoothly without pulling?
• Is the belt placed at the natural waist and tied neatly?
• Do both shoes sit level?
• Does the beret slouch to one side, not straight upward?
• Is the koala small enough to look like a companion, not equal in scale?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean first with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Press gently rather than rubbing. Reshape while damp and let dry flat on a towel.

For deeper cleaning, remove loose accessories and hand wash the doll briefly in cool water. Do not twist or wring. Press out moisture in a towel, reshape the head, coat, ears, and beret, then dry flat away from heaters.

Store in acid-free tissue or a breathable cotton bag. Do not seal in plastic for long periods. If the doll is a display piece, occasional light airing helps preserve the yarn and stuffing freshness.