Sweet-Pea Ruffle-Strap Bunny – Knitting

This gentle bunny and her tiny teddy friend are dressed for a soft spring outing, complete with a puffed brown beret-cap, ruffle shoulder straps, a pastel dress, ballet shoes, and sweet-pea blooms.

If you love browsing for DK yarn, safety eyes, fiberfill stuffing, lace trim, and a dependable knitting needle set to buy for heirloom toys, this project is made for your wishlist.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

You will knit a seated, floppy-eared bunny in a smooth stockinette fabric. Then dress her in a mint-and-cream jumper dress with a pink neckline cord and pastel ruffled straps.

A soft lace collar and lace sleeve frills sit under the straps. The look is finished with a brown puffed cap, a matching wrist cuff, ballet shoes, a tote bag, a gift box, and a sweet-pea bouquet.

The small teddy companion is knit in warm brown with a pale muzzle and wears a simple gathered floral dress made from cotton fabric. The teddy holds a tiny wound yarn ball.

The accessories are small, but each one is part of the charm. Take your time, and use the checklists as you go so nothing gets missed.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 13–14 in / 33–36 cm tall when seated, measured from hat brim to shoe sole.
• Teddy friend: about 4.5–5 in / 11–13 cm tall.
• Tote bag: about 3 in / 7.5 cm tall with handles.
• Gift box: about 2 in / 5 cm long.

Size can shift with yarn choice and stuffing firmness. For a look like the photo, aim for a dense fabric where stuffing does not show through. If your stitches feel loose, drop a needle size.

Materials

• Yarn (DK weight):
  • Main bunny: oatmeal/beige (A), about 90–110 g.
  • Hat and cuff: heathered cocoa/brown (B), about 30–40 g.
  • Dress: soft mint (C) and warm cream (D), about 25–35 g each.
  • Neckline cord: dusty pink (E), a few yards.
  • Ruffle straps: pastel variegated (F) with pink/lilac/mint, about 10–15 g.
  • Bag motif: tiny scraps in pink, lavender, plum, pale teal, buttery yellow.
  • Bouquet stems/leaves: soft green (G), about 10 g; blooms: scraps in pinks, lilacs, and white.
  • Teddy friend: medium brown (H) and muzzle cream (I), small amounts.
  • Yarn ball: pale blush or beige (J), scraps.
• Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm for toy body and teddy; US 3 / 3.25 mm for dress, hat, bag, and accessories (or adjust to get a firm fabric).
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scrap yarn for holders, small scissors, ruler.
• Eyes: 6 mm black safety eyes for bunny; 4–5 mm black safety eyes for teddy, or shiny black beads.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Optional but strongly recommended for the exact look: off-white eyelet lace trim (about 18–22 in total) for the bunny collar and sleeve frills; lightweight floral cotton for the teddy dress; pale ribbon or smooth yarn for the gift box bow.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical, but the fabric must be tight. A helpful target for the toys is about 26 sts x 36 rounds in stockinette = 4 in / 10 cm using US 2.

If you are far from this and the fabric is still firm, continue. If you see holes or the stuffing shows through, switch to a smaller needle.

Abbreviations

• k knit
• p purl
• st(s) stitch(es)
• rnd round
• RS/WS right side/wrong side
• kfb knit front and back (increase 1)
• k2tog knit 2 together (decrease 1)
• ssk slip, slip, knit (decrease 1)
• m1L/m1R make 1 left/right (increase 1)
• CO cast on
• BO bind off
• SM/PM slip marker/place marker
• dpn double-pointed needles

Helpful Techniques

Working in the round: Use dpns or magic loop. Move your marker at the start of each rnd. For the smoothest look on the toys, avoid twisting stitches and keep even tension.

Invisible decreases: Use ssk and k2tog as written so shaping stays balanced. On small rounds, shift stitches between needles so decreases do not stack on the same needle join.

Stuff as you go: Add stuffing in small pinches. Use a chopstick or the back of your needle to push stuffing into the muzzle and toes.

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Overstuffing can stretch stitches; understuffing can make the toy slump. The photo shows a plush, smooth surface, so aim for firm support without strain.

Main Bunny

Head (beige A, worked in the round)

The bunny’s head is a smooth sphere with a slightly longer lower face once it is stuffed and shaped. Begin at the crown and increase evenly. Keep your fabric tight, because the face is the most visible area in the finished doll.

1. CO 6 sts using a tight circular cast-on. Join for working in the round. PM for beginning of rnd. (6)
2. Rnd 1: kfb in each st. (12)
3. Rnd 2: k1, kfb; repeat around. (18)
4. Rnd 3: k2, kfb; repeat around. (24)
5. Rnd 4: k3, kfb; repeat around. (30)
6. Rnd 5: k4, kfb; repeat around. (36)
7. Rnd 6: k5, kfb; repeat around. (42)
8. Rnd 7: k6, kfb; repeat around. (48)
9. Rnd 8: k7, kfb; repeat around. (54)

Knit 16 rnds even in stockinette (k every rnd). The head should look like a tall dome. This extra height helps the hat sit low without covering the eyes too much, matching the photo.

Place eyes: Insert 6 mm safety eyes between rnds 15 and 16, about 13–14 sts apart. Center them so the face looks calm and slightly wide-set. Secure the backs firmly.

Knit 6 rnds even after the eye placement to move toward the lower head and neck. Begin stuffing now, shaping the forehead smoothly. Add more stuffing later after the decreases start, so the face stays rounded.

1. Dec rnd 1: k7, k2tog; repeat around. (48)
2. Rnd 2: knit.
3. Dec rnd 3: k6, k2tog; repeat around. (42)
4. Rnd 4: knit.
5. Dec rnd 5: k5, k2tog; repeat around. (36)
6. Rnd 6: knit.
7. Dec rnd 7: k4, k2tog; repeat around. (30)

Stuff firmly. With your fingers, press a gentle “muzzle plane” into the front by pushing stuffing slightly upward behind where the nose will be embroidered. This creates the soft rounded snout seen in the image without adding a separate muzzle piece.

1. Dec rnd 8: k3, k2tog; repeat around. (24)
2. Rnd 9: knit.
3. Dec rnd 10: k2, k2tog; repeat around. (18)
4. Rnd 11: knit.
5. Dec rnd 12: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (12)
6. Rnd 13: knit.
7. Dec rnd 14: k2tog around. (6)

Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and weave in. Use the tail to add a few small sculpting stitches if you want a slightly flatter chin. Do not add strong cheek indents; the photo shows a smooth face.

Ears (make 2, beige A, worked flat)

The ears are long, softly rounded, and hang straight down from under the hat brim. Knit each ear flat in stockinette, then seam the edges. A light seam gives the ear a gentle thickness, matching the plush look in the photo.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1 (RS): k.
3. Row 2 (WS): p.
4. Row 3: k1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. (20)
5. Row 4: p.
6. Row 5: k1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. (22)
7. Row 6: p.

Work 38 rows in stockinette (Row 7: k, Row 8: p, repeat). The ear should be long enough to reach past the bunny’s shoulder line once attached. End after a WS row.

1. Shape tip, Row 45 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (20)
2. Row 46 (WS): p.
3. Row 47: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (18)
4. Row 48 (WS): p.
5. Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain.
6. Next RS: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. (4)
7. Next WS: p.
8. Next RS: k2tog twice. (2)
9. BO remaining 2 sts.

Fold ear with RS facing out, align edges, and mattress stitch from base up to the tip. Lightly stuff only the base 1 in if desired. Leave the upper ear unstuffed so it drapes like the photo.

Body (beige A, worked in the round from hips to neck)

The body is a simple seated shape with a soft belly. The dress will cover most of it, but a smooth body helps the clothing fit neatly. Knit the body as a tube with mild shaping, then close at the neck opening where it will attach to the head.

1. CO 42 sts. Join in the round. PM. (42)
2. Knit 6 rnds.
3. Inc rnd: k6, m1R; repeat around. (49)
4. Knit 10 rnds.
5. Inc rnd: k7, m1R; repeat around to last st, k1. (56)
6. Knit 14 rnds.

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The belly should feel gently rounded. Begin stuffing the lower body. Pack stuffing more firmly in the base so the bunny sits steadily, then keep the upper belly softer so it looks plush and not stiff.

1. Dec rnd: k6, k2tog; repeat around. (49)
2. Knit 6 rnds.
3. Dec rnd: k5, k2tog; repeat around. (42)
4. Knit 4 rnds.
5. Dec rnd: k4, k2tog; repeat around. (35)
6. Knit 4 rnds.
7. Dec rnd: k3, k2tog; repeat around. (28)
8. Knit 3 rnds.

Stuff the body firmly, checking that the front is smooth and the back is slightly flatter where it will rest. If you want extra stability, add a small pouch of poly pellets inside a fabric bag in the base before final stuffing.

1. Neck shaping: Dec rnd: k2, k2tog; repeat around. (21)
2. Knit 2 rnds.
3. Dec rnd: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (14)
4. Knit 1 rnd.

Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread tail through sts and pull snug, but do not close completely; leave a small opening so you can adjust stuffing after attaching the head.

Arms (make 2, beige A, worked in the round)

The arms are slim with a soft curve. In the photo, the left arm rests near the tote and bouquet, while the right arm sits close to the teddy. Knit both the same, then pose them during sewing.

1. CO 8 sts using circular cast-on. Join. (8)
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. (16)
3. Rnd 2: knit.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb; repeat around. (24)
5. Knit 10 rnds.

Begin stuffing the hand lightly. Keep the wrist a bit flatter than the hand so the cuff can sit over it later. Continue with a gentle taper for the forearm.

1. Dec rnd: k2, k2tog; repeat around. (18)
2. Knit 12 rnds.
3. Dec rnd: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (12)
4. Knit 14 rnds.

Stuff the arm lightly, focusing more stuffing in the upper arm so it keeps shape while still bending a bit. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Flatten the opening and close with whip stitches, leaving the tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2, beige A, worked in the round)

The bunny’s legs are long and lightly ribbed, which reads like the vertical texture in the photo. The shoes sit at the bottom and have a defined opening edge. Knit each leg from the top down so you can control length before the foot begins.

1. CO 24 sts. Join for working in the round. PM. (24)
2. Work k1, p1 rib for 34 rnds.
3. Switch to stockinette (k every rnd) for 4 rnds.

Lightly stuff the leg as you go, keeping the back of the leg a little flatter so it drapes when seated. Do not overstuff; the legs in the photo look slim and softly filled.

Feet and Shoes (integrated, beige A)

The shoes are built directly onto the leg, forming a rounded toe and a shoe opening edge. A separate i-cord creates the crisscross ballet straps you see on the top of each shoe.

1. Foot inc rnd 1: k3, kfb; repeat around. (30)
2. Rnd 2: knit.
3. Foot inc rnd 3: k4, kfb; repeat around. (36)
4. Knit 6 rnds.

At this point, the foot should begin to round. Stuff the toe firmly and smooth the stuffing with your fingers so the surface stays even. Add stuffing in small amounts; you want a plump toe with no bumps.

1. Sole shaping (short rows, worked back and forth on half the sts): place 18 sts on one needle for the top of foot and 18 sts on another for the sole.
2. Work on sole sts only: Row 1 (RS): k17, turn.
3. Row 2 (WS): p16, turn.
4. Row 3: k15, turn.
5. Row 4: p14, turn.
6. Row 5: k13, turn.
7. Row 6: p12, turn.
8. Row 7: k11, turn.
9. Row 8: p10, turn.
10. Row 9: k9, turn.
11. Row 10: p8, turn.
12. Row 11: k to end of sole sts, picking up wraps as you encounter them.

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Rejoin working in the round across all 36 sts. Knit 2 rnds even. This short-row section creates a gentle curve under the foot so the shoe looks rounded instead of flat.

1. Define shoe opening: work 1 rnd knit, then 1 rnd purl. Repeat that pair once more for a soft garter ridge.
2. Begin toe decreases: Dec rnd: k4, k2tog; repeat around. (30)
3. Knit 1 rnd.
4. Dec rnd: k3, k2tog; repeat around. (24)
5. Knit 1 rnd.
6. Dec rnd: k2, k2tog; repeat around. (18)

Stuff the foot and ankle area again, then continue decreasing until closed. The toe should remain rounded and full, like a soft ballet slipper rather than a pointed shoe.

1. Dec rnd: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (12)
2. Dec rnd: k2tog around. (6)

Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and weave in. Repeat for the second leg. Set legs aside while you knit the straps so you can match their placement on both shoes.

Ballet Straps (make 2 long cords, beige A)

The photo shows two narrow straps crossing over the top of each shoe, creating an “X” and a small wrap at the ankle. Use a firm i-cord so the straps sit neatly and do not twist.

1. With dpn, CO 3 sts. Knit i-cord for 18 in / 46 cm. BO.
2. Make a second identical cord.

To attach: center the cord on the inner ankle and stitch down about 1 in. Cross over the top of the foot, stitch at the outer side, then cross back and stitch at the inner side again.

Wrap once around the ankle and tack the end under the wrap. Repeat on the other shoe, mirroring the crossing so the “X” looks even from the front.

Dress and Lace Details

Neck Lace Collar (off-white lace trim)

The bunny wears a soft eyelet lace collar that sits like a scalloped ring around the neck. For the closest match, use purchased eyelet lace trim. If you prefer a fully knitted collar, you may substitute a knitted lace strip, but the photo reads like real lace.

• Measure around the bunny’s neck opening where the head meets the body.
• Cut lace trim to that length plus 1/2 in for overlap.
• Hand stitch the trim into a circle, then stitch the circle to the top of the dress neckline after the dress is fitted.

Keep the collar light and slightly ruffled. In the photo, it sits under the chin and peeks above the dress, giving a sweet vintage feel without looking bulky.

Lace Sleeve Frills (off-white lace trim)

Under each shoulder strap, there is a short lace frill that looks like a tiny sleeve. Create two short gathered pieces of the same eyelet lace trim and stitch them inside the dress arm openings.

• Cut two pieces of lace, each about 5 in / 13 cm.
• Run a gathering stitch along the straight edge and gather until it fits the arm opening.
• Stitch in place so the scalloped edge points outward.

Jumper Dress (worked flat, mint C and cream D)

The dress is a simple jumper with a fitted mint bodice and a softly gathered skirt. A dusty pink cord sits at the neckline like a delicate trim. The skirt shows a cream main section and a wide mint band near the hem, finished with a thick garter border.

Bodice Front (mint C)

1. Using US 3 needle, CO 34 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in garter (k every row) for a clean lower edge inside the skirt seam.
3. Begin stockinette: Row 5 (RS): k. Row 6 (WS): p. Repeat for 18 rows total of stockinette.

Shape the arm openings slightly so the straps sit closer to the neck, like the photo. You are making a gentle curve, not a deep armhole.

1. Next RS: BO 2 sts, k to end. (32)
2. Next WS: BO 2 sts, p to end. (30)
3. Work 6 more rows stockinette.
4. BO all sts loosely.

Bodice Back (mint C)

The back matches the front. A small opening at the center back makes dressing easier, but keep it subtle so it stays hidden when viewed from the front.

1. CO 34 sts.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Work 18 rows stockinette.
4. Next RS: BO 2, k to end. (32)
5. Next WS: BO 2, p to end. (30)
6. Work 6 rows stockinette.
7. BO all sts.

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Skirt (worked in the round from waist down)

To match the photo, the skirt begins with cream and has a softly gathered waist. You will pick up stitches around the bodice bottom edge, increase for fullness, then knit straight down. The hem has a mint band and a plump garter border.

1. Sew front and back bodice pieces at the side seams, leaving arm openings unsewn.
2. With RS facing, pick up and knit 70 sts evenly around the lower bodice edge using cream D. Join for working in the round. PM. (70)
3. Increase rnd: k4, m1R; repeat around. (87)
4. Knit 20 rnds in cream D.
5. Switch to mint C. Knit 14 rnds.
6. Hem border: work 6 rnds by alternating 1 rnd knit, 1 rnd purl.
7. BO loosely.

The gathered look comes from the increase rnd and the way the skirt hangs after dressing the bunny. If you want more fullness, add another increase rnd after 6 cream rnds. Keep increases subtle so the skirt still looks neat.

Dress Straps (mint C, make 2)

The straps in the photo are mint and sit close to the neck. Each strap supports a ruffle along its outer edge. Knit the straps firm so they do not stretch over time.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Work 44 rows in stockinette (RS knit, WS purl).
3. Work 4 rows garter.
4. BO.

Sew the straps to the bodice front about 5 sts in from each arm opening, then sew the other ends to the back in the same positions. Try the dress on the bunny while pinning so the neckline sits high like the photo.

Pink Neckline Cord (dusty pink E)

The photo shows a soft pink line across the neckline, like a tiny braided trim. Make an i-cord and stitch it along the front neckline just below the lace collar line.

1. CO 3 sts. Knit i-cord for 8 in / 20 cm. BO.

Pin the cord in a shallow curve across the front bodice, then stitch it down with tiny matching stitches. Hide the ends under the strap attachments so the finish looks seamless.

Ruffle Strap Trim (pastel variegated F, make 2)

The ruffles are the signature detail. Each shoulder has a full, frilly strip that begins near the neckline and runs down the strap. The ruffle is wavy with visible gathers, and the variegated yarn shifts between lilac, pink, and mint like the photo.

1. With US 3 needle, CO 60 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): p.
3. Row 2 (RS): k1, kfb repeat across. (90)
4. Row 3 (WS): purl all sts.
5. Row 4 (RS): knit all sts.
6. BO loosely on WS with a relaxed hand.

Gather the straight edge slightly with a running stitch so the ruffle fits the strap length. Stitch the gathered edge to the outer side of each strap, letting the ruffle flare outward. Aim for a plush ripple, not a flat frill.

Hat and Wrist Cuff

Puffed Beret-Cap with Brim (brown B)

The hat is a soft, puffed cap with a short brim that sits low on the forehead. The crown is wider than the head, then drawn in to create the beret shape. The brim is slightly curved, which frames the bunny’s calm eyes in the photo.

Brim (worked flat)

1. CO 26 sts with US 3 needle.
2. Work 8 rows in garter stitch (k every row).
3. Shape brim curve: Row 9 (RS): k12, kfb, k to end. (27)
4. Row 10 (WS): k.
5. Row 11: k13, kfb, k to end. (28)
6. Row 12: k.
7. Row 13: k14, kfb, k to end. (29)
8. Row 14 (WS): k.

This gives a gentle center rise. BO all sts. Set brim aside. The long edge will be stitched to the hat band, and the brim will curve naturally once attached and lightly steamed.

Hat Band and Crown (worked in the round)

1. CO 52 sts. Join for working in the round. PM. (52)
2. Work 6 rnds in k1, p1 rib.
3. Increase rnd: k2, m1R; repeat around. (78)
4. Knit 10 rnds.
5. Increase rnd: k5, m1R; repeat around. (91)
6. Knit 6 rnds.

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The crown should look puffed and roomy. If your yarn is thicker, you may stop after the first increase rnd. The goal is a crown that overhangs the band slightly, creating that soft beret silhouette.

1. Begin crown decreases: Dec rnd: k5, k2tog; repeat around. (78)
2. Knit 1 rnd.
3. Dec rnd: k4, k2tog; repeat around. (65)
4. Knit 1 rnd.
5. Dec rnd: k3, k2tog; repeat around. (52)
6. Knit 1 rnd.
7. Dec rnd: k2, k2tog; repeat around. (39)
8. Knit 1 rnd.
9. Dec rnd: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (26)
10. Dec rnd: k2tog around. (13)

Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and weave in. Lightly steam the crown with a hovering iron if you like, then shape it into a soft puff by hand.

Attach Brim

Center the brim on the front of the hat band. Stitch the long straight edge of the brim to the band, using small backstitches. The brim should sit just above the bunny’s eyes when worn.

Tack the brim ends down slightly so it keeps its curve. If you want extra definition, add a hidden tack stitch at the brim center to keep it gently arched.

Wrist Cuff (brown B)

The bunny wears a small rolled cuff on one wrist, matching the hat color. It sits like a soft bracelet and adds a cozy detail. Knit it as a small tube, then fold to create thickness.

1. CO 20 sts. Join for working in the round. (20)
2. Work 10 rnds in k1, p1 rib.
3. Work 6 rnds stockinette.
4. BO loosely.

Fold the cuff in half so the ribbing forms the outer edge. Stitch the BO edge to the CO edge. Slide onto the bunny’s wrist and tack in place with a few hidden stitches.

Tote Bag

The tote is a small beige bag with two handles and a scattered floral-like motif on the front. The body is simple stockinette. The color motif is easiest with duplicate stitch after the bag is knit, which keeps the bag firm and tidy at this scale.

Bag Body (beige A, worked flat)

1. CO 26 sts with US 3 needle.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Work 22 rows stockinette.
4. Work 4 rows garter.
5. BO.

Fold the rectangle in half with RS out. Mattress stitch the side seams, leaving the top open. Lightly stuff with a pinch of fiberfill if you want it to look softly rounded.

Close the base seam firmly. Keep the corners squared so the tote reads as a little boxy bag, like the one leaning beside the bunny in the photo.

Handles (make 2, beige A)

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Work 40 rows in i-cord (or knit a narrow strap in garter by knitting every row).
3. BO.

Sew each handle to the inside top of the bag, spaced evenly so they stand up. In the photo, the handles are short and upright rather than long shoulder straps.

Duplicate Stitch Motif

Use small scraps to create tiny “petals” in pink, lavender, plum, pale teal, and buttery yellow. Place the motif in a loose band across the middle of the bag, with a few scattered stitches above and below.

• Thread a scrap color on a tapestry needle.
• Follow the “V” of one knit stitch and stitch over it, duplicating its shape.
• Make small clusters of 2–4 duplicate stitches per “flower.”
• Switch colors often to keep the mix soft and playful.

Gift Box

The gift box is a tiny rectangular parcel with vertical ridges and a pale bow. Knit it in the round in ribbing, then stuff firmly so it keeps a boxy shape. Add a smooth cord wrapped around and tied on top.

Box (beige A)

1. CO 24 sts. Join for working in the round. (24)
2. Work 20 rnds in k1, p1 rib.
3. Switch to stockinette and knit 2 rnds to help the top edge fold cleanly.
4. Stuff firmly.
5. Close: k2tog around. (12) Thread yarn through sts, pull tight, and sew shut.

With a separate strand of dusty pink E or a pale ribbon, wrap the parcel in a cross, then tie a neat bow on top. Keep the bow soft and slightly oversized so it reads clearly at small scale.

Sweet-Pea Bouquet

The bouquet hangs beside the tote with several dangling blossoms in pink, lilac, purple, and white. The stems are thin cords, and the blossoms are ruffled cups. Make a few leaves in green and stitch everything into a small cluster.

Stems (green G, make 6–8)

1. CO 3 sts and knit i-cord for 5–7 in / 13–18 cm. BO.

Make some stems longer and some shorter so the bouquet drapes naturally. In the photo, several blossoms hang below the bag, with two pale blooms at the very bottom.

Leaves (green G, make 3)

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1 (RS): k.
3. Row 2 (WS): p.
4. Row 3: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (8)
5. Row 4 (WS): p.
6. Row 5: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (6)
7. Row 6 (WS): p.
8. Row 7: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. (4)
9. Row 8 (WS): p.
10. Row 9 (RS): k2tog twice. (2)
11. BO.

Lightly stretch each leaf into a pointed oval. Stitch the leaf base to a stem, then tack the leaf midline with a tiny stitch so it keeps a natural curve.

Blossoms (make 10–12 in assorted colors)

Each blossom is a small ruffled cup. The easiest method is a tiny rectangle that is gathered into a trumpet shape, then pinched at the top to mimic sweet-pea petals. Make a mix of colors so the bouquet looks like the photo.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in stockinette (RS knit, WS purl).
3. Row 7 (RS): kfb in every st. (28)
4. Row 8 (WS): purl.
5. BO loosely.

Roll the rectangle into a tube and seam the short edges. With a running stitch, gather one end into a small opening. This gathered edge becomes the throat of the flower.

Pinch the opposite edge at two points and tack to form a ruffled, two-lobed top. Stitch the gathered end of the blossom to the end of a stem.

Repeat for all blossoms. Gather the stems together at the top with green yarn, wrap tightly for 1/2 in, and stitch to secure. Attach leaves near the top, then let blossoms dangle beside the tote.

Small Teddy Friend

Head (brown H, worked in the round)

The teddy is tiny and round with a pale muzzle and a sweet embroidered nose. Keep the stuffing firm so the features stay crisp. The teddy in the photo has small shiny eyes and a centered muzzle patch.

1. CO 6 sts using a tight circular cast-on. Join. (6)
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. (12)
3. Rnd 2: k1, kfb; repeat around. (18)
4. Rnd 3: k2, kfb; repeat around. (24)
5. Knit 8 rnds.

Place 4–5 mm safety eyes between rnds 7 and 8, about 8 sts apart. Stuff the head firmly, keeping the front smooth. Begin decreases to close the head.

1. Dec rnd: k2, k2tog; repeat around. (18)
2. Knit 1 rnd.
3. Dec rnd: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (12)
4. Dec rnd: k2tog around. (6)

Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight, and weave in, leaving a tail if you want to use it for attaching the head later.

Muzzle (cream I, worked flat)

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 6 rows stockinette.
3. BO.

Roll the muzzle piece into a soft oval and stitch it to the teddy’s face, centered below the eyes. Add a small pad of stuffing under it before closing the last stitches so it sits slightly raised like the photo.

Ears (make 2, brown H)

1. CO 6 sts. Knit 2 rows.
2. Inc row (RS): k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. (8)
3. WS: purl.
4. BO.

Gather the ear base slightly and stitch to the top sides of the head. Keep ears small and round, not tall, so the teddy reads as a classic bear.

Body (brown H, worked in the round)

1. CO 6 sts. Join. (6)
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. (12)
3. Rnd 2: k1, kfb; repeat around. (18)
4. Rnd 3: k2, kfb; repeat around. (24)
5. Knit 6 rnds.
6. Dec rnd: k2, k2tog; repeat around. (18)
7. Knit 2 rnds.
8. Dec rnd: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (12)

Stuff firmly. Close the base: k2tog around. (6) Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight, and weave in. The body should be a small rounded barrel that can sit against the bunny’s dress.

Arms and Legs (brown H, make 2 arms and 2 legs)

The limbs are tiny tubes with a ribbed texture that matches the look in the photo. Keep them short and slightly flattened at the ends for easy sewing.

1. CO 8 sts. Join. (8)
2. Work k1, p1 rib for 10 rnds.
3. Stuff lightly.
4. BO, leaving a long tail.

Flatten each piece and stitch closed. Sew arms to the sides of the body near the top. Sew legs to the lower body so the teddy can sit. Angle one arm so it can hold the yarn ball.

Teddy Dress (fabric)

Cut a rectangle of lightweight floral cotton about 6 in wide and 2.5 in tall. Hem the top edge, run a gathering stitch, and gather to fit around the teddy’s chest. Stitch the back seam.

For the skirt, cut a second strip about 7 in wide and 1.75 in tall, gather it, and sew to the bodice strip. The dress in the photo is loose and sweet, with a small floral print and a soft ruffle at the collar.

Tiny Yarn Ball (blush J)

The teddy holds a small wound yarn ball with visible wrap lines. Knit a tiny sphere and embroider wrapped strands around it to mimic a real ball of yarn.

1. CO 6 sts with circular cast-on. Join. (6)
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. (12)
3. Rnd 2: k1, kfb; repeat around. (18)
4. Knit 4 rnds.
5. Dec rnd: k1, k2tog; repeat around. (12)
6. Dec rnd: k2tog around. (6)

Stuff firmly, close, and weave in. With a slightly darker strand, wrap and tack stitches around the ball in several directions, making crossing lines. Stitch the ball into the teddy’s hand with a few secure stitches.

Assembly Order

Assembling in a steady order helps the details stay aligned. The hat, straps, and lace all sit around the face, so they look best when the head and ears are already attached. Keep pins handy and check symmetry from the front often.

1. Sew bunny head to body, adjusting the neck opening so the head sits centered and upright.
2. Attach ears under the hat line, slightly behind the eyes, so they fall straight down.
3. Sew arms to the body with a gentle downward angle.
4. Sew legs to the lower body so the bunny sits, then attach ballet straps.
5. Dress the bunny, then add lace collar and lace sleeve frills.
6. Sew straps and ruffles in place if not already attached to the dress.
7. Add hat and wrist cuff.
8. Make and place tote bag, bouquet, and gift box.
9. Assemble teddy, dress it, and stitch it lightly to the bunny’s side if desired.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Embroider the bunny nose and mouth with dark brown or gray-brown yarn. Make a small vertical stitch for the nose line, then split into a gentle “Y” for the mouth. Keep it minimal like the photo.

Add a few tiny anchoring stitches inside the head to settle stuffing and keep the face smooth. Avoid deep cheek dimples, since the photographed face looks clean and softly rounded.

Care Notes

Handmade toys last longest with gentle handling. Display away from direct sun and avoid damp storage. If children will play with the toy, consider embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes.

Stitch accessories securely so small parts do not come loose. Store the bouquet and gift box with the toy so the set stays complete over time.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Hat brim centered and sitting just above the eyes.
• Lace collar visible under the chin, not tucked inside the dress.
• Ruffle straps full and mirrored left to right.
• Skirt shows cream body, mint band, and garter hem clearly.
• Ballet straps crossed neatly and tacked down.
• Tote motif colors balanced, bouquet drapes beside the bag.
• Teddy dress gathered and yarn ball secured in hand.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap, then press with a towel and air dry flat. For deeper cleaning, remove fabric pieces if possible and gently hand wash the knitted parts in cool water.

Reshape while damp and let everything dry fully before dressing the dolls again. Store in a breathable cotton bag with lavender sachets, and avoid plastic bins that can trap moisture.