Officer-Jacket Sweetheart Bunny – Knitting

Officer-Jacket Sweetheart Bunny – Knitting

Meet an heirloom-style knitted bunny dressed for a brisk morning stroll: a creamy plush rabbit with floppy ears, a chunky cable beanie topped with a fluffy pom-pom, a mossy green officer jacket with pockets and three buttons, and a soft swing skirt finished with three airy lace medallions. You’ll also make a tiny fox companion, plus a suitcase, a round mat, and a little book—perfect for gifting, collecting, or shopping for handmade doll clothes buttons, safety eyes, toy stuffing, and soft DK yarn.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Measurements

  • Sweetheart Bunny: about 12 in / 30 cm tall (hat to shoe), seated about 9 in / 23 cm.
  • Officer Jacket: cropped to just above skirt waist; sleeves end at wrist with cuff.
  • Skirt: mid-calf length with gentle flare and three lace medallions on the front.
  • Tiny Fox: about 6 in / 15 cm tall seated, with a small brim cap, jacket, and lace skirt.
  • Suitcase: about 3.5 in / 9 cm wide, 2.5 in / 6.5 cm tall, 1.25 in / 3 cm deep.

Supplies

  • Yarn (DK / light worsted): Cream (bunny body), Olive (jackets), Oatmeal/Beige (bunny skirt, shoes, book cover), White (lace pieces, fox skirt), Orange (fox), Brown (pompom + suitcase), Dark Brown (fox paws), Navy (fox hat stripe), Deep Red + Teal (suitcase ribbons).
  • Needles: US 2–3 (2.75–3.25 mm) for tight toy fabric; US 3–4 (3.25–3.5 mm) optional for garments if you prefer slightly softer drape.
  • Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle, small scissors, pins, measuring tape.
  • Stuffing: polyester fiberfill or wool stuffing.
  • Eyes: 6 mm black safety eyes for bunny, 4–5 mm for fox (or small black beads/thread knots).
  • Buttons: Bunny jacket: three 10–12 mm buttons; Fox jacket: three 6–8 mm buttons.
  • Optional shaping tools: smooth scrap yarn for sculpting stitches; small piece of cardboard/plastic canvas to stiffen suitcase walls.

Yarn and Color Notes

This design relies on a tight, smooth fabric for the animals and a slightly textured fabric for the jackets. If your stitches look loose or stuffing shows through, switch to a smaller needle. Keep the bunny in creamy neutrals so the olive jacket and beige skirt match the look in the photo.

For the beanie pom-pom, use fluffy brown yarn, brushed mohair, faux-fur trim yarn, or hold two strands of brown DK together. The pom should be round and full, sitting centered on the crown. The suitcase and fox paws use darker browns to echo the warm accents.

Gauge and Fabric

Gauge is not critical for toys, but consistency is. Aim for a firm stockinette fabric: about 26–30 sts per 4 in / 10 cm on smaller needles with DK yarn. Jackets and skirts can be a touch looser, but keep edges neat for crisp pockets and collars.

Abbreviations

  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • rnd = round
  • RS/WS = right side / wrong side
  • m1 = make 1 increase (lifted increase or kfb)
  • kfb = knit front and back of same stitch
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise
  • yo = yarn over
  • BO = bind off
  • CO = cast on

Techniques Used

  • Working in the round (magic loop, DPNs, or small circular)
  • Simple increases/decreases for shaping
  • Seaming and ladder stitch (grafting-style closing)
  • Attached i-cord edging for the jacket trim
  • Basic cables for the beanie
  • Small bobbles for sleeve detail
  • Knitted lace medallions and lace skirt hem

Construction Notes

The bunny is worked mostly in the round for a clean, seam-minimized finish that matches the smooth look in the photo. Ears are knitted flat and sewn on so they drape softly. Clothing is removable: the skirt is picked up at the waist, and the jacket buttons closed in front.

Stuff firmly but not rock-hard. Add stuffing in small pinches, shaping as you go. For the face, you’ll use a few sculpting stitches to create the gentle muzzle and the slight horizontal contour seen on the cheeks, then embroider the tiny nose and mouth in brown.

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Sweetheart Bunny

Head (Cream)

Work in the round. Place a marker for the start of the rnd. Use a tight needle size so the face is smooth and the stuffing stays hidden. The head is a rounded ball with a slightly emphasized lower face, created by a few purl ridge rounds and later sculpting.

  1. CO 6 sts into a magic ring. Join to work in the round (6).
  2. Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
  3. Rnd 2: (k1, kfb) around (18).
  4. Rnd 3: (k2, kfb) around (24).
  5. Rnd 4: (k3, kfb) around (30).
  6. Rnd 5: (k4, kfb) around (36).
  7. Rnd 6: (k5, kfb) around (42).
  8. Rnd 7: (k6, kfb) around (48).

Work the crown smooth, then add subtle cheek contour. Keep your tension even so the face looks polished. The bunny in the photo has wide-set eyes and a calm expression, so avoid over-tightening around the eye area.

  1. Rnd 8–12: k all (48).
  2. Rnd 13: p all (a gentle ridge) (48).
  3. Rnd 14–16: k all (48).
  4. Rnd 17: p all (48).
  5. Rnd 18–20: k all (48).
  6. Rnd 21: p all (48).
  7. Rnd 22–26: k all (48).

Place eyes now. Insert 6 mm safety eyes between Rnds 18 and 19, about 12–13 sts apart, centered on the face. Check the look from the front: the eyes should sit low enough to feel sweet, but not so low that the hat brim will cover them.

Begin stuffing the head, shaping it round. Add extra stuffing to the lower front so the muzzle area is softly full. Keep the top slightly less firm so the beanie can sit comfortably without distorting the head shape.

  1. Rnd 27: (k6, k2tog) around (42).
  2. Rnd 28: k all (42).
  3. Rnd 29: (k5, k2tog) around (36).
  4. Rnd 30: k all (36).
  5. Rnd 31: (k4, k2tog) around (30).
  6. Rnd 32: (k3, k2tog) around (24).
  7. Rnd 33: (k2, k2tog) around (18).
  8. Rnd 34: (k1, k2tog) around (12).
  9. Rnd 35: k2tog around (6). Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and close.

Ears (Cream, make 2)

The ears are long, floppy, and softly rounded at the tips, exactly like the photo. Knit them flat for a gentle drape, then seam the base slightly to give a natural curve. Use a firm but not stiff fabric so they hang beside the cheeks.

  1. CO 18 sts. Work flat in stockinette, with garter edges: k2, then stockinette across center, end k2 every row.
  2. Row 1 (RS): k2, k14, k2.
  3. Row 2 (WS): k2, p14, k2.
  4. Repeat Rows 1–2 until ear measures about 4.75 in / 12 cm from CO edge.

Shape the rounded tip. Keep edges neat; the ear outline is visible beside the hat brim. Do not over-sharpen the tip—aim for a soft oval end.

  1. Next RS: k2, k2tog, k10, ssk, k2 (16).
  2. Next WS: k2, p12, k2.
  3. Next RS: k2, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2 (14).
  4. Next WS: k2, p10, k2.
  5. Next RS: k2, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2 (12).
  6. Next WS: k2, p8, k2.
  7. Next RS: k2, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2 (10).
  8. Next WS: k2, p6, k2.
  9. Next RS: k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2 (8).
  10. Next WS: k2, p4, k2.
  11. Next RS: k2, k2tog, ssk, k2 (6).
  12. Next WS: k2, p2, k2.
  13. Next RS: k2tog, k2, k2tog (4). BO. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Fold each ear in half lengthwise (WS together) and lightly whipstitch the first 1 in / 2.5 cm of the base only, creating a tiny “cup.” This helps the ears sit beside the face rather than sticking straight out.

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Body (Cream)

The body is a smooth torso with a gentle waist, designed to sit under the cropped jacket and support the skirt. You’ll knit from the neck down, shaping out for the belly, then increasing for hips. Keep the torso firm so the jacket buttons lie flat.

  1. CO 24 sts in the round. Join (24).
  2. Rnd 1–4: k all.
  3. Rnd 5: (k3, kfb) around (30).
  4. Rnd 6–8: k all (30).
  5. Rnd 9: (k4, kfb) around (36).
  6. Rnd 10–16: k all (36).

Add a soft waist indent so the skirt looks like it begins at a true waistline. The photo shows a clear transition from jacket hem to skirt top, so this shaping matters even if it’s subtle.

  1. Rnd 17: (k4, k2tog) around (30).
  2. Rnd 18–20: k all (30).
  3. Rnd 21: (k5, kfb) around (35).
  4. Rnd 22: k all (35).
  5. Rnd 23: (k6, kfb) around (40).
  6. Rnd 24–28: k all (40).

Stuff the torso firmly as you go. Keep the front slightly fuller than the back so the bunny stands nicely in shoes. Stop stuffing about 1 in / 2.5 cm from the bottom so you can attach legs smoothly.

  1. Rnd 29: (k7, kfb) around (45).
  2. Rnd 30–34: k all (45).
  3. Rnd 35: (k7, k2tog) around (40).
  4. Rnd 36: k all (40).
  5. Rnd 37: (k6, k2tog) around (35).
  6. Rnd 38: k all (35).

BO loosely. Leave a long tail for sewing the body to the head. You should have a gently rounded torso that narrows at the waist and widens slightly at the hips, matching the way the skirt flares in the photo.

Arms (Cream, make 2)

The bunny’s arms are simple and slightly tapered, with small cream hands peeking out from the jacket sleeves. Keep them lightly stuffed so they can rest naturally at the sides. The cuffs of the jacket will do the visual “finishing,” so the hands stay plain and smooth.

  1. CO 12 sts in the round. Join (12).
  2. Rnd 1–10: k all.
  3. Rnd 11: (k4, k2tog) twice (10).
  4. Rnd 12–16: k all (10).

Stuff lightly. Close the top with a gather: cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight. Leave a sewing tail. Do not shape a thumb; the photo shows a clean mitten-like hand.

Legs (Cream, make 2)

These legs are built to wear ribbed tights and beige shoes. Knit each leg from the toe upward, shaping the foot, then continuing into a straight leg. The bunny stands with feet slightly turned outward, so don’t over-tighten decreases at the toe.

  1. CO 10 sts in the round. Join (10).
  2. Rnd 1: kfb around (20).
  3. Rnd 2: k all (20).
  4. Rnd 3: (k4, kfb) around (24).
  5. Rnd 4–6: k all (24).

Form a gentle foot by narrowing slightly, then lengthening. This gives the shoe a rounded silhouette like the photo. Stuff the foot firmly before moving into the ankle section.

  1. Rnd 7: (k4, k2tog) around (20).
  2. Rnd 8–12: k all (20).
  3. Rnd 13: (k3, k2tog) around (16).
  4. Rnd 14–28: k all (16).

Stuff the leg firmly but keep the upper 1 in / 2.5 cm slightly softer for attaching to the body. BO, leaving a long tail. Repeat for the second leg.

Tail (Cream)

The tail is small and subtle, mostly hidden by the skirt, but it helps the bunny look complete. Make a tiny round nub and sew it low on the back, centered. Keep it modest so the skirt sits smoothly without a lump.

  1. CO 6 sts in a magic ring (6).
  2. Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
  3. Rnd 2–3: k all (12).
  4. Rnd 4: (k2, k2tog) around (9).
  5. Rnd 5: k2tog around to close. Stuff lightly, gather shut, leave tail.

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Bunny Clothing

Ribbed Tights (Cream, make 2)

The photo shows tall, ribbed tights with vertical columns. These slide over the bunny legs and sit under the skirt. Knit as simple tubes in 2×2 rib so the texture stands out clearly, even at small scale.

  1. CO 20 sts. Join in the round (20).
  2. Rnd 1–26: (k2, p2) around.
  3. BO in rib. Weave in ends. Repeat for second tight.

Slide each tube over a leg. The tights should extend from just above the shoe line up to the skirt waist area. If you want a snugger fit, CO 18 sts instead and knit the same length.

Beige Shoes (Oatmeal/Beige, make 2)

The shoes are rounded beige slip-ons with a simple instep strap, matching the photo’s soft, moccasin-like look. They sit over the cream feet and cover the ankle edge of the tights. A small strap ridge across the top gives that distinct “shoe” silhouette.

Shoe base (worked flat, then seamed)

  1. CO 22 sts. Work in garter stitch (k every row) for 10 rows.
  2. Shape toe (RS): k2tog, k18, k2tog (20).
  3. WS: k all.
  4. RS: k2tog, k16, k2tog (18).
  5. WS: k all.
  6. RS: k2tog, k14, k2tog (16). Work 2 more garter rows.

Fold the piece around the bunny foot: seam the toe edges together neatly, then seam the sole sides up to form a shallow slipper. Try it on as you seam so the fit stays snug and rounded, like the photo.

Instep strap (make 2)

  1. CO 10 sts. Work garter stitch for 6 rows. BO.

Sew a strap across the top of the shoe, from one side to the other, slightly forward of center. Tack the ends securely inside the shoe so the seam doesn’t show. Repeat for the second shoe.

Swing Skirt (Oatmeal/Beige)

The skirt is a smooth, softly flared beige piece with a neat hem and three lace medallions arranged across the front. It sits under the cropped jacket and falls to mid-calf. Knit in the round for a seamless drape and a clean hemline.

Skirt waistband

  1. With the bunny body completed, identify the waist: the narrowest section below the chest, where the jacket hem will sit.
  2. Pick up 40 sts evenly around the waist using beige yarn (40).
  3. Rnd 1–3: k all.

Skirt flare

  1. Rnd 4: (k9, m1) around (44).
  2. Rnd 5–8: k all (44).
  3. Rnd 9: (k10, m1) around (48).
  4. Rnd 10–14: k all (48).
  5. Rnd 15: (k11, m1) around (52).
  6. Rnd 16–22: k all (52).
  7. Rnd 23: (k12, m1) around (56).
  8. Rnd 24–28: k all (56).

The skirt should now flare gently. If you want a slightly wider swing like the photo, add one more increase round: (k13, m1) around. Keep the fabric smooth and even so the lace medallions sit flat without puckering.

Hem (the visible border)

  1. Rnd 29–33: p all for 5 rnds to create a rolled edge that mimics a structured hem.
  2. Rnd 34–38: k all for 5 rnds for a tidy garter finish.
  3. BO loosely.

Lace Medallions for Skirt (White, make 3)

The photo shows three circular lace motifs sewn to the front of the skirt: left, center, and right, sitting just above the hem border. Knit these airy medallions in white and block them flat before attaching so they keep their crisp, doily-like look.

Medallion (worked in the round)

  1. CO 8 sts into a magic ring. Join (8).
  2. Rnd 1: (kfb) around (16).
  3. Rnd 2: (k1, yo, k1, k2tog) around (24).
  4. Rnd 3: k all.
  5. Rnd 4: (k2, yo, k2, k2tog) around (30).
  6. Rnd 5: k all.
  7. Rnd 6: (k3, yo, k3, k2tog) around (36).
  8. Rnd 7: k all.

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Create the openwork “petals.” Work carefully so the holes stay evenly spaced. If your yarn overs feel too loose, gently snug them on the next stitch without tightening so much that the lace collapses.

  1. Rnd 8: (yo, k2tog) around (36).
  2. Rnd 9: (k1, yo, k2tog, k1) around (36).
  3. Rnd 10: k all.
  4. Rnd 11: (k2, yo, k2tog, k2) around (36).
  5. Rnd 12: (yo, k1) around (72) by repeating (yo, k1) into each st to form a lacy outer ring.
  6. Rnd 13: p all (72).
  7. Rnd 14: k all (72). BO loosely.

Wet-block each medallion into a neat circle about 2.25–2.75 in / 5.5–7 cm wide. Once dry, pin the skirt flat and place the medallions evenly across the lower front: left, center, and right, each about 0.5 in / 1.25 cm above the hem border. Sew with tiny stitches.

Officer Jacket (Olive)

This cropped jacket is the key look: textured, structured, with a small collar, three buttons, and two patch pockets. The photo shows a bumpy, cozy surface, so we’ll use garter stitch as the main fabric, then add a narrow attached i-cord trim for the braided edges.

Jacket body (worked flat in one piece to armholes)

  1. CO 54 sts. Work flat.
  2. Rows 1–6: k all (garter).
  3. Row 7 (RS): k all.
  4. Row 8 (WS): k all.
  5. Repeat Rows 7–8 until piece measures about 3.25 in / 8.5 cm from CO edge.

Create the cropped shape by slightly rounding the front hem. The photo shows the jacket dipping a touch at the front points, so we’ll shape the two front edges while keeping the back straight.

  1. Next RS: k18, turn. (Left front only)
  2. WS: k all on these 18 sts.
  3. RS: k16, turn.
  4. WS: k all.
  5. RS: k14, turn.
  6. WS: k all. Leave these sts on hold.
  7. Rejoin yarn at center 18 sts: work 8 garter rows on center 18 (back) without shaping. Leave on hold.
  8. Rejoin yarn at remaining 18 sts (right front) and mirror the shaping: work 2 rows on 18, then 2 rows on 16, then 2 rows on 14. Leave on hold.

Now reunite all sts (14 + 18 + 14 = 46 sts) by working across in garter stitch. Continue straight until jacket body measures about 4.5 in / 11.5 cm from the original CO edge.

Armholes and fronts

  1. Next RS: k14 (left front), BO 4 (armhole), k20 (back), BO 4, k14 (right front). 38 sts remain.
  2. Work each section separately in garter stitch for 10 rows, keeping edges neat.

Shoulders should sit flat under the collar. Do a quick try-on by pinning the jacket around the bunny body. The jacket hem should end just above the skirt waist, and the center fronts should meet with a small overlap for buttons.

  1. BO left front 10 sts. BO back 18 sts. BO right front 10 sts. Seam shoulders.

Sleeves (Olive, make 2) are straight with a cuff and a small row of bobbles near the outer arm, like the photo. Work flat in garter stitch, then seam into tubes.

  1. CO 22 sts. Rows 1–6: k all.
  2. Rows 7–18: continue garter.

Add sleeve bobbles: the photo shows small raised dots along the outer sleeve area. Place 3 bobbles in one RS row, evenly spaced across the center of the sleeve. Keep bobbles small so they feel like a trim, not a huge bump.

  1. Next RS (bobbles): k5, bobble, k5, bobble, k5, bobble, k4.
  2. Bobble: kfbf into same st (5 sts), turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p5, turn, k5, then k2tog twice and pass last st over to return to 1 st.
  3. Work 10 more garter rows.
  4. BO. Seam sleeve. Repeat for second sleeve.

Set-in sleeves: Sew sleeves into armholes with right sides together. Because garter is thick, use backstitch or mattress stitch and keep seams smooth. The sleeves should sit slightly forward so the bunny’s arms look relaxed by her sides.

Patch pockets (make 2)

  1. CO 14 sts. Work garter stitch for 14 rows. BO.

Sew pockets to the front panels, positioned low and slightly outward like the photo. Leave the top edge open. Keep the pocket shape crisp and rectangular.

Front button band and trim

To mimic the photo’s braided edging, add an attached 3-stitch i-cord around the jacket hem, up both front edges, and around the pocket outer edges if desired. This creates a clean rope-like border without bulky seams.

  1. Attached i-cord (3 sts): With RS facing, pick up 1 st at edge, CO 2 more sts (3). *K2, k2tog through back loop with next edge st, slide 3 sts back to left needle.* Repeat along edge. BO when complete.

Collar

  1. Pick up 26 sts evenly around neckline. Work 6 garter rows. BO loosely.

Fold collar slightly to the outside and tack at the front corners so it sits like the small, neat collar in the photo. This tiny fold is what gives the jacket its “officer” feel.

Buttons

Sew three buttons down the center front, evenly spaced. The top button sits just below the collar, and the bottom button sits above the hem curve. Make simple thread loops or horizontal sewn buttonholes so the fronts meet neatly without gaping.

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Cable Beanie with Pom-Pom (Cream + Brown)

The beanie is chunky, with a deep folded rib brim and a cable-textured crown. The brim sits low, hugging the bunny’s head, while the floppy ears hang outside the hat. Add a plush brown pom on top to match the photo.

Beanie brim (in the round)

  1. CO 48 sts. Join in the round (48).
  2. Rnd 1–10: (k2, p2) around.

Folded brim: knit 10 rounds of 2×2 rib, then fold it upward. You can tack the inner fold with a few stitches later so it keeps the thick, cozy brim shape shown in the photo.

Hat body cable setup

  1. Rnd 11: k all.
  2. Rnd 12: (p2, k6, p2, k6) around (repeat 4 times) to create purl gutters.

Work a simple cable panel: cross the 6 knit stitches as 3 over 3 every 6 rounds. If you prefer, use a cable needle, but you can also cable without one. Keep the purl gutters consistent so the cables pop.

  1. Rnd 13–16: work as established: p2, k6, p2, k6 around.
  2. Rnd 17 (cable rnd): p2, cable 3/3 on first k6, p2, cable 3/3 on next k6; repeat around.
  3. Rnd 18–22: work as established.
  4. Rnd 23 (cable rnd): repeat cable rnd.
  5. Rnd 24–28: work as established.

Crown shaping

  1. Rnd 29: (k6, k2tog) around (42).
  2. Rnd 30: k all (42).
  3. Rnd 31: (k5, k2tog) around (36).
  4. Rnd 32: k all (36).
  5. Rnd 33: (k4, k2tog) around (30).
  6. Rnd 34: (k3, k2tog) around (24).
  7. Rnd 35: (k2, k2tog) around (18).
  8. Rnd 36: (k1, k2tog) around (12).
  9. Rnd 37: k2tog around (6). Cut yarn, gather closed.

Pom-pom: Make a 2.5–3 in / 6–7.5 cm fluffy pom in brown. Stitch it securely to the crown. Fold the brim up, then tack the sides lightly so it stays thick and rounded like the photo.

Tiny Fox Companion

Fox Head (Orange with White muzzle)

The fox is small, seated, and sweetly round with a white muzzle patch and tiny black nose. Keep the face simple: wide-set eyes, a centered muzzle, and a soft triangular snout formed by stuffing and embroidery rather than sharp shaping.

  1. CO 6 sts in a magic ring (6).
  2. Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
  3. Rnd 2: (k1, kfb) around (18).
  4. Rnd 3: (k2, kfb) around (24).
  5. Rnd 4–8: k all (24).

Eye placement: Insert 4–5 mm eyes between Rnds 6 and 7, about 8 sts apart. Keep them slightly higher than the bunny’s eyes so the fox looks alert.

  1. Rnd 9: (k2, k2tog) around (18).
  2. Rnd 10: k all (18).
  3. Rnd 11: (k1, k2tog) around (12).
  4. Rnd 12: k2tog around (6). Stuff firmly, gather closed.

White muzzle patch (White)

  1. CO 2 sts. Work i-cord for 8 rows (knit 2, slide back, repeat). BO.
  2. Make 2 patches. Sew them to the fox face as mirrored “cheek” triangles meeting under the nose area, like the photo.

Embroider a small black nose centered where the two white patches meet. Add a short vertical stitch down and a tiny split into a “Y” for the mouth, keeping it minimal.

Fox Ears (Orange, make 2)

  1. CO 10 sts. Work flat in stockinette with garter edges for 8 rows.
  2. Next RS: k2tog, k6, k2tog (8).
  3. WS: k all.
  4. Next RS: k2tog, k4, k2tog (6). BO. Fold and sew to form a small ear cup.

Add a tiny white inner ear stitch with white yarn if desired, but keep it very subtle. The photo reads as a soft highlight rather than a bold inner-ear panel.

Fox Body (Orange)

The fox sits with a rounded tummy and short legs. Knit a small torso in the round, then attach paws. Keep the back slightly flatter so it can sit upright beside the bunny.

  1. CO 18 sts in the round (18).
  2. Rnd 1: (k2, kfb) around (24).
  3. Rnd 2–10: k all (24).
  4. Rnd 11: (k2, k2tog) around (18).
  5. Rnd 12–14: k all (18).
  6. BO, leaving tail for sewing to head. Stuff firmly.

Fox Legs/Paws (Dark Brown, make 2)

  1. CO 8 sts in the round (8).
  2. Rnd 1: kfb around (16).
  3. Rnd 2–4: k all (16).
  4. Rnd 5: (k2, k2tog) around (12).
  5. Rnd 6–8: k all (12). Stuff lightly, gather closed. Leave tail.

Sew paws to the front lower body so the fox looks seated, with feet angled outward. This placement matches the relaxed pose in the photo.

Fox Tail (Orange with White tip)

  1. CO 10 sts in the round (10). Rnd 1–4: k all.
  2. Switch to white for 3 rnds for the tip. Stuff lightly.
  3. Decrease: k2tog around (5). Gather closed. Sew to back.

Fox Jacket (Olive)

The fox jacket is shorter and ribbed-looking compared to the bunny’s garter jacket. Use 1×1 rib to create vertical texture, then add tiny buttons. This contrast helps the miniature outfit read clearly at small scale.

  1. CO 28 sts. Work flat.
  2. Rows 1–10: (k1, p1) across, ending with k1.
  3. Split for fronts and back: work 10 sts (left front) in rib for 6 rows, BO. Work middle 8 sts (back) for 6 rows, BO. Work last 10 sts (right front) for 6 rows, BO.

Seam shoulders. Pick up 18 sts around neckline and knit 4 rows in rib for a tiny collar edge. BO. Knit 2 sleeves: CO 12 sts, work 10 rows of rib, BO, seam into tubes, and set into armholes.

Sew three small buttons down the front. Use simple thread loops for closures so the jacket fits snugly without bulk.

Fox Lace Skirt (White)

The fox skirt is a delicate, doily-like flare. Knit it in the round using yarn overs for openwork. Keep it short so it doesn’t cover the paws completely, matching the photo’s playful, airy hem.

  1. CO 24 sts. Join (24).
  2. Rnd 1: k all.
  3. Rnd 2: (k1, yo, k1, k2tog) around (24).
  4. Rnd 3: k all.
  5. Rnd 4: (k2, yo, k2, k2tog) around (24).
  6. Rnd 5: k all.
  7. Rnd 6: (yo, k2tog) around (24).
  8. Rnd 7: p all. BO loosely.

Fox Brim Cap (Beige with Navy stripe)

The tiny hat is a simple cap with a small brim and a navy band stripe. Keep the brim neat so it reads clearly, even though it’s small. Sew it slightly tilted if you want the same charming angle as the photo.

  1. CO 6 sts in a magic ring (6).
  2. Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
  3. Rnd 2: (k1, kfb) around (18).
  4. Rnd 3: (k2, kfb) around (24).
  5. Rnd 4: k all (24).
  6. Rnd 5 (navy stripe): knit 1 rnd in navy (24).
  7. Rnd 6–7 (beige): k all (24).
  8. Rnd 8 (brim): (kfb, k3) around to widen slightly (30).
  9. Rnd 9: p all (30). BO loosely.

Accessories

Ribbed Suitcase (Brown)

The suitcase is a soft rectangle with vertical ribs and a rounded top handle. The front has three ribbon bars and three medal circles, echoing the photo’s travel-and-awards vibe. For a firm, boxy shape, you can slip a thin cardboard liner inside after stuffing lightly.

Front and back panels (make 2)

  1. CO 28 sts. Work flat in 1×1 rib: Row 1 (RS) k1, p1 across. Row 2 (WS) p1, k1 across.
  2. Repeat until panel measures about 2.5 in / 6.5 cm tall. BO.

Gusset strip (sides + bottom)

  1. CO 10 sts. Work garter stitch for 46 rows (or long enough to go around three sides of a panel: down one side, across bottom, up the other side). BO.

Seam gusset to the front panel, then seam the back panel to the other edge of the gusset, leaving the top edge open. Lightly stuff, insert optional liner, then stitch the top closed with a neat seam.

Handle

  1. Work a 3-st i-cord for about 3 in / 7.5 cm. Sew ends to the top center.

Latch detail (Beige)

  1. CO 6 sts. Work garter for 4 rows. BO. Sew as a small tab near the top corner, like the photo.

Ribbon bars and medals

  • Make 3 tiny ribbon strips (about 0.75 in / 2 cm each) in deep red, navy, and teal. Sew them side-by-side as a small bar.
  • For medals, knit 3 tiny circles in gold, silver, and bronze tones: CO 6 in a ring, kfb around (12), k 1 rnd, then gather closed. Sew under the ribbon bar.

Round Travel Mat (Cream + Green)

This is a small circular mat with concentric rings and a scalloped cream edge. Knit it in the round in garter stitch so it looks thick and cozy. The rings should read clearly: cream center, green ring, cream ring, green ring, then cream scallops.

  1. With cream: CO 6 in a magic ring (6).
  2. Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
  3. Rnd 2: k all.
  4. Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) around (18).
  5. Rnd 4: k all.

Switch to green for 2 rounds, then back to cream, then green again. Keep increasing every other round so the circle stays flat.

  1. Rnd 5 (green): (k2, kfb) around (24).
  2. Rnd 6 (green): k all.
  3. Rnd 7 (cream): (k3, kfb) around (30).
  4. Rnd 8 (cream): k all.
  5. Rnd 9 (green): (k4, kfb) around (36).
  6. Rnd 10 (green): k all.
  7. Rnd 11 (cream): (k5, kfb) around (42).

Scalloped edge: create small bumps by increasing and decreasing. This gives the slightly wavy outer edge you see in the photo.

  1. Rnd 12 (cream): (k2, kfb, k2, k2tog) around (42).
  2. Rnd 13: p all (42).
  3. BO loosely.

Little Book (Beige cover + White pages)

The book is a small beige rectangle with a ribbed cover and visible white “pages.” Add a tiny label patch on top. Keep it slightly puffed so it looks like a real object beside the bunny and fox, not a flat square.

Cover (Beige, knit flat)

  1. CO 20 sts. Work 1×1 rib for 26 rows. BO.

Pages (White)

  1. CO 18 sts. Work garter stitch for 20 rows. BO.

Fold the beige cover around the white pages. Stitch the spine edge only so the pages show on three sides. Lightly stuff between cover and pages if you want extra thickness.

Label patch

  1. With white: CO 8 sts, garter stitch 6 rows, BO. Stitch onto the cover.
  2. Use black yarn to add two tiny straight stitches on the label, mimicking the simple marking seen in the photo.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Head to body: Align the head so the face is centered and level. Sew with a firm mattress stitch around the neck opening, adding extra stitches at the front and back for strength. The bunny should hold her head upright even with the hat on.

Attach ears: Sew ears to the sides of the head, slightly below the hat brim line. They should hang down beside the cheeks, ending around the jacket collar area. Angle the inner edges slightly forward so the face looks framed and gentle.

Arms and legs: Sew legs to the lower body, spaced so the bunny stands with feet shoulder-width apart. Attach arms slightly forward of the side seams so they rest naturally. Add the small tail centered on the back, low enough to sit under the skirt.

Face stitching: With brown yarn, embroider a tiny triangular nose and a short vertical line down, then split into a small “Y” mouth. Add two short diagonal stitches from the nose area to suggest the sweet muzzle shape. Use a few hidden sculpting stitches to pinch cheeks gently if desired.

Care Notes

These dolls are best as decorative collectibles. If gifting to a child, avoid safety eyes and buttons; substitute embroidered eyes and stitched-on closures. Keep the hat pom-pom brushed and fluff it after handling so it stays rounded.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Eyes secured and evenly spaced; face centered and calm.
  • Head firmly attached; neck seam tight with no gaps.
  • Jacket edges trimmed neatly; three buttons aligned and functional.
  • Skirt hem smooth; three lace medallions evenly spaced and flat.
  • Shoes snug; tights ribbing straight; bunny stands steadily.
  • Fox outfit fits; suitcase handle strong; accessories neatly finished.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot-clean with cool water and a drop of gentle soap. Press with a towel—do not wring. Reshape while damp and air-dry flat away from direct sun. For long-term storage, keep in a breathable cotton bag with tissue support inside the jacket and skirt to prevent deep creases.

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