Boho-Lace Wisteria Bunny – Knitting.

This heirloom bunny doll set blends a soft cottagecore rabbit, a tiny woodland fawn, and charming spring accessories into one collectible handmade display. The relaxed lace dress, ruffled bonnet, mini market bag, wisteria bundle, and pear make it perfect for a nursery shelf, Easter basket gift, boutique toy styling, or artisan home decor. If your readers search for a knitted bunny doll, handmade stuffed rabbit, cottagecore nursery decor, spring centerpiece, or keepsake baby gift, this design fits that look beautifully while still feeling warm, simple, and timeless.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

The set in the photo is made in a soft, matte palette. The main bunny, bonnet, dress, bag, and shoes use a pale oatmeal beige. The collar and waist frills use dusty wisteria purple edged with muted sage. The small fawn adds chestnut brown, cream, moss, ivory, and black.

• Main color: fingering or light sport yarn in pale oatmeal beige, about 85 to 100 g
• Accent A: fingering or light sport yarn in dusty wisteria purple, about 20 g
• Accent B: fingering or light sport yarn in muted sage green, about 10 g
• Mini fawn color: chestnut brown, about 20 g
• Mini bodice color: warm cream, about 10 g
• Pear color: soft pear green, small amount
• Napkin color: ivory or white, small amount
• Needles: US 1 to US 2 double-pointed needles or circular needles for small circumference, plus one pair one size larger for loose bind-offs if desired
• Notions: toy stuffing, tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn, sharp embroidery needle, black embroidery floss or yarn, brown embroidery yarn, ivory embroidery yarn, and optional thin craft wire for posing the wisteria stems

Finished Measurements

Your exact size will depend on yarn loft and personal gauge, but the proportions below match the image well when worked tightly and stuffed firmly. The large bunny should stand taller than the tiny fawn and sit beside the bag and flower bundle without crowding them.

• Main bunny: about 12 to 13 inches tall from feet to top of bonnet
• Main bunny body alone: about 10 inches tall from feet to top of head
• Long ears: about 4 1/2 inches from crown line to tip
• Mini fawn: about 4 1/2 to 5 inches tall
• Tote bag: about 2 inches tall, excluding handles
• Wisteria bunch: about 3 inches long
• Pear: about 1 1/4 inches tall
• Lace square: about 2 1/4 inches square

Gauge

For the smooth, well-filled finish shown in the picture, use a firm toy gauge. Aim for about 32 stitches and 42 rows over 4 inches in stockinette worked flat or in the round after light steaming. Exact gauge matters less than density, but loose fabric will not hold the sculpted face and rounded silhouette correctly.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• dec = decrease
• inc = increase
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• M1 = make 1 stitch by lifting the running strand
• p = purl
• pm = place marker
• rep = repeat
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Pattern Notes

This set looks best when the knitting is intentionally compact. Use the smallest needle that still allows smooth knitting. Every piece in the image has clean edges, rounded stuffing, and only light drape. That balance comes from firm gauge, careful stuffing, and gentle blocking rather than heavy pressing.

The large bunny is built from separate knitted parts, then dressed in a fitted lace frock with a frilled collar and matching waist trim. The bonnet sits low on the head with a soft rippling brim. The ears hang straight down under the bonnet rather than passing through it.

The small companion in the image reads most clearly as a tiny fawn because of the chestnut face, upright ears, white muzzle, and pale forehead spots. This pattern follows that look closely. If you prefer, you can keep the same shaping and simply change the facial embroidery.

Use the following lace instructions throughout the set. They are small, tidy, and give the same airy vertical movement seen in the image without making the fabric too loose for a display piece.

Bodice Lace Panel

Work over 10 stitches. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 are purled on the WS.

1. Row 1: k1, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k2
2. Row 3: k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1
3. Row 5: k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2tog
4. Row 7: k2tog, k1, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k1
5. Repeat Rows 1 to 8 for the full length of the panel

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Skirt Lace Panel

Work over 12 stitches. Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 are purled on the WS.

1. Row 1: k1, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, k2, k2tog, yo, k1
2. Row 3: k2, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2
3. Row 5: k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, k2
4. Row 7: k2, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k3
5. Row 9: k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, k1
6. Row 11: k2, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k2
7. Repeat Rows 1 to 12 for each panel

Main Bunny

Head

The head in the image is softly oval rather than perfectly round. It is widest across the cheek area, slightly flatter near the face, and gently tapered at the chin. Work the head firmly, then shape it with a few hidden sculpting stitches after stuffing.

1. CO 8 sts in pale oatmeal, divide over needles, and join carefully.
2. Rnd 1: knit.
3. Rnd 2: [k1, M1] around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: knit.
5. Rnd 4: [k1, M1] around. 32 sts.
6. Rnd 5: knit.
7. Rnd 6: [k3, M1] around. 40 sts.
8. Rnd 7: knit.
9. Rnd 8: [k4, M1] around. 48 sts.
10. Rnd 9: knit.
11. Rnd 10: [k5, M1] around. 56 sts.
12. Rnds 11 to 26: knit even.
13. Rnd 27: [k12, k2tog] 4 times. 52 sts.
14. Rnd 28: knit.
15. Rnd 29: [k11, k2tog] 4 times. 48 sts.
16. Rnd 30: knit.
17. Rnd 31: [k6, k2tog] 6 times. 42 sts.
18. Rnd 32: knit.
19. Rnd 33: [k5, k2tog] 6 times. 36 sts.
20. Begin stuffing firmly. Pack the cheeks fully and keep the crown smooth.
21. Rnd 34: [k4, k2tog] 6 times. 30 sts.
22. Rnd 35: [k3, k2tog] 6 times. 24 sts.
23. Rnd 36: [k2, k2tog] 6 times. 18 sts.
24. Rnd 37: [k1, k2tog] 6 times. 12 sts.
25. Rnd 38: [k2tog] around. 6 sts. Cut yarn and draw through.

Thread a long strand of matching yarn and lightly sculpt the face. Make one horizontal stitch from side to side, pull very gently to widen the muzzle area, then make one short vertical stitch at the lower center to suggest the soft dip where the embroidered nose and mouth will sit.

Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and unstuffed. They fall straight from the head and end just below the collar level. A softly rounded tip is important. If the ears are too wide, they will flare out and lose the calm droop seen in the image.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Rows 1 and 2: knit.
3. Row 3: k1, M1, k1, M1, k1. 5 sts.
4. Row 4: purl.
5. Row 5: k1, M1, knit to last 1 st, M1, k1. 7 sts.
6. Continue increasing in this way on every RS row until you have 17 sts.
7. Work 30 rows even in stockinette.
8. Decrease 1 st at each end of every 4th row until 7 sts remain.
9. Work 4 rows even.
10. Decrease at each end of every RS row until 3 sts remain, then BO.
11. Make 2. Lightly steam and let them cool flat. Do not stuff.

Arms

The main bunny arms have a tulip shape. They are fuller at the upper arm, then draw in softly near the wrist before ending in a rounded mitten hand. That shape is what creates the gentle puff-sleeve look seen beside the collar and bodice.

1. CO 8 sts, join.
2. Rnd 1: [k1, M1] around. 16 sts.
3. Rnds 2 to 10: knit.
4. Rnd 11: [k2tog, k6] twice. 14 sts.
5. Rnd 12: purl.
6. Rnds 13 to 24: knit.
7. Rnd 25: [k5, k2tog] twice. 12 sts.
8. Rnds 26 to 30: knit.
9. Stuff only the lower two thirds, leaving the top edge soft for sewing.
10. Cut yarn, thread through live stitches, and gather shut.
11. Make 2.

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Legs

The legs are mostly hidden by the skirt, but they must be long enough to lift the dress hem naturally above the shoes. Keep them slim. Overstuffing the legs will spread the hemline and make the bunny lose the elegant straight fall shown in the image.

1. CO 8 sts, join.
2. Rnd 1: [k1, M1] around. 16 sts.
3. Rnds 2 to 18: knit.
4. Rnd 19: [k6, k2tog] twice. 14 sts.
5. Rnds 20 to 24: knit.
6. Stuff firmly but keep the top inch softer.
7. Flatten the top opening and close with mattress or whip stitches.
8. Make 2.

Body

The body is a neat pear shape that supports the dress. It is narrower at the neck, wider through the skirt area, and flat enough front to back that the lace panels lie smoothly. Because the frock is fitted, avoid a very round belly.

1. CO 12 sts, join.
2. Rnd 1: [k1, M1] around. 24 sts.
3. Rnd 2: knit.
4. Rnd 3: [k2, M1] around. 32 sts.
5. Rnd 4: knit.
6. Rnd 5: [k3, M1] around. 40 sts.
7. Rnds 6 to 16: knit.
8. Rnd 17: [k4, M1] around. 48 sts.
9. Rnds 18 to 25: knit.
10. Rnd 26: [k6, k2tog] 6 times. 42 sts.
11. Rnd 27: knit.
12. Rnd 28: [k5, k2tog] 6 times. 36 sts.
13. Rnd 29: knit.
14. Rnd 30: [k4, k2tog] 6 times. 30 sts.
15. Rnd 31: knit.
16. Rnd 32: [k3, k2tog] 6 times. 24 sts.
17. Rnds 33 to 36: knit for the neck opening.
18. BO loosely or leave live stitches for sewing the head in place.

Stuff the body firmly at the lower half and slightly less firmly near the neck. Sew the legs to the underside so the bunny stands with a narrow gap between the feet. Attach the arms high on the sides, angled slightly forward, so they rest close to the waist frill.

Main Bunny Clothing

Bodice Front

The bodice front is pale oatmeal and sits smoothly over the body. Its center is filled by vertical lace columns, while the outer edges remain plain. In the image, the bodice stops at the natural waist and is framed above and below by rippled purple frills with a sage line.

1. CO 30 sts.
2. Rows 1 and 2: stockinette.
3. Rows 3 to 26: work 5 sts stockinette, Bodice Lace Panel twice, 5 sts stockinette.
4. Row 27: BO 2 sts at the start of the row, work to end.
5. Row 28: BO 2 sts at the start of the row, work to end. 26 sts.
6. Rows 29 and 31: k2tog, work to last 2 sts, ssk. 22 sts after Row 31.
7. Rows 30 and 32: purl.
8. Rows 33 to 38: continue in pattern as established.
9. Row 39: k7, BO 8, k7.
10. Work each side separately for 4 more rows, keeping armhole edge straight.
11. BO shoulder stitches.

Bodice Back

The back is plain and unobtrusive. A center opening is useful while dressing the doll, but once the frock is fitted you can close it permanently with small hidden stitches. Keep the neckline slightly high so the collar sits close under the chin.

1. Make 2 back pieces. CO 14 sts for each.
2. Rows 1 to 26: work in stockinette, slipping the first stitch of every row for a neat edge.
3. Shape armholes exactly as for the front, working each piece separately.
4. At the neck edge, dec 1 st on every RS row 3 times.
5. Work until the back matches the front shoulder height, then BO.

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Skirt

The skirt falls in a gentle bell shape. The front features two airy vertical panels that frame a plain center section. The sides and back are mostly smooth. This contrast is important because it keeps the eye focused on the center while echoing the bohemian lace styling of the image.

1. Front skirt: CO 48 sts.
2. Row 1: k6, Skirt Lace Panel, k12, Skirt Lace Panel, k6.
3. Row 2: purl.
4. Continue in this arrangement for 12 rows.
5. On Row 13 and every following 8th RS row, inc 1 st at each side edge 4 times. 56 sts.
6. Keep the lace panels aligned and add the side increases to the plain sections only.
7. Work until the front skirt measures about 4 1/4 inches from the waist edge.
8. Work 2 rows garter stitch and BO very loosely.
9. Back skirt: CO 48 sts.
10. Work in stockinette, increasing 1 st at each side edge every 8th RS row 4 times to match the front.
11. Work to the same length as the front, then work 2 garter rows and BO loosely.

Sew the bodice front to the bodice backs at the shoulders. Sew the skirt front and back together at the side seams. Join the bodice to the skirt, easing the bodice gently if needed. Dress the bunny, close the back seam neatly, and tack the frock lightly at the shoulders and waist so it remains in position.

Collar and Waist Frill

These soft ripples define the whole look. The purple should dominate, while the sage appears as a fine shadow line near the outer edge. Make both frills airy and lightly waved, not stiff. A tight bind-off will destroy the soft flower-petal movement in the image.

1. Neck frill: pick up 48 to 52 sts evenly around the neckline with purple.
2. Round 1: purl.
3. Round 2: [k1, M1] around. Double the stitch count.
4. Round 3: with sage, purl.
5. Round 4: with purple, knit.
6. Round 5: BO loosely in knit or use a very loose picot-style bind-off if you want deeper waves.
7. Waist frill: repeat the same steps around the waist seam, picking up slightly fewer stitches if needed so the frill sits flat against the skirt before rippling outward.

Bonnet

The bonnet is a rounded cap with a drooping, ruffled brim. It sits low across the forehead and dips beside the face. The brim should look tender and slightly floppy, never crisp. Knit the dome firmly, but switch to a looser hand or larger needle only for the final brim rounds.

1. CO 8 sts, join.
2. Rnd 1: knit.
3. Rnd 2: [k1, M1] around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: knit.
5. Rnd 4: [k1, M1] around. 32 sts.
6. Rnd 5: knit.
7. Rnd 6: [k3, M1] around. 40 sts.
8. Rnd 7: knit.
9. Rnd 8: [k4, M1] around. 48 sts.
10. Rnd 9: knit.
11. Rnd 10: [k5, M1] around. 56 sts.
12. Rnds 11 to 22: knit.
13. Rnd 23: [k6, M1] around. 64 sts.
14. Rnds 24 to 26: knit.
15. Rnd 27: [k3, M1] around. 80 sts.
16. Rnds 28 to 32: knit.
17. BO very loosely.

Lightly steam the brim over your fingers so it forms soft waves. Stitch the bonnet invisibly to the crown in two or three tiny places only. That keeps the brim mobile while preventing the cap from slipping backward when the ears are arranged underneath.

Shoes

The shoes are tiny lace-up boots in the same pale tone as the bunny. They sit flat, with rounded toes and long wraparound laces. The tied cords cross over the front and continue around the ankle, creating the soft crisscross detail visible above the toes.

1. Sole: CO 8 sts. Work 6 rows garter. Do not BO.
2. Pick up stitches around the sole to total about 24 sts. Join.
3. Rnd 1: purl.
4. Rnds 2 to 5: knit.
5. Rnd 6: k6, k2tog 3 times, k12. 21 sts.
6. Rnd 7: knit.
7. Rnd 8: k5, k2tog 3 times, k10. 18 sts.
8. Rnds 9 to 12: knit.
9. BO loosely.
10. Laces: make a long 3-st I-cord for each shoe, about 14 inches long. Cross the cord over the front, wrap it around the ankle, and tie in a soft bow.

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Mini Fawn Companion

The small friend wears the same palette as the large bunny but in a slightly sweeter, more woodland way. The face is chestnut with a pale muzzle, black nose, tiny eyes, and small ivory forehead spots. The skirt is wisteria purple, while the top and collar echo the larger doll.

Head and Body

For a neat small scale, use the same yarn with a slightly smaller needle or simply knit more tightly. The head should be large in proportion to the body, and the neck should stay short. That childlike proportion is exactly what makes the miniature companion match the mood of the image.

1. Head: CO 6 sts in chestnut, join.
2. Rnd 1: [k1, M1] around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 2: knit.
4. Rnd 3: [k1, M1] around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: knit.
6. Rnd 5: [k2, M1] around. 32 sts.
7. Rnds 6 to 14: knit.
8. Rnd 15: [k6, k2tog] 4 times. 28 sts.
9. Rnd 16: knit.
10. Rnd 17: [k5, k2tog] 4 times. 24 sts.
11. Rnd 18: knit.
12. Rnd 19: [k2, k2tog] 6 times. 18 sts.
13. Stuff firmly.
14. Rnd 20: [k1, k2tog] 6 times. 12 sts.
15. Rnd 21: [k2tog] around. 6 sts. Draw closed.
16. Body: CO 10 sts in cream, join.
17. Rnd 1: [k1, M1] around. 20 sts.
18. Rnd 2: knit.
19. Rnd 3: [k3, M1] around. 25 sts.
20. Rnds 4 to 10: knit.
21. Rnd 11: [k3, k2tog] 5 times. 20 sts.
22. Rnds 12 to 14: knit.
23. Stuff lightly and close the top.

Ears, Arms, and Legs

The mini ears stand up through the hat brim, so they should be smaller and perkier than the bunny ears. The arms and legs are slim little tubes. Keep the paws and feet simple because the dress and stance do most of the visual work at this small scale.

1. Ears, make 2: CO 3 sts in chestnut, increase at each RS edge until 7 sts, work 8 rows even, then decrease at each RS edge until 3 sts remain. BO.
2. Arms, make 2: CO 6 sts in chestnut, join, knit 12 rnds, stuff lightly, gather top closed.
3. Legs, make 2: CO 6 sts in chestnut, join, knit 14 rnds, stuff lightly, flatten and sew shut.

Mini Dress and Hat

The miniature dress mirrors the large bunny. The cream top has a narrow lace section, a purple ruffle at the neck, a sage waist line, and a purple skirt with a few eyelets near the hem. Keep all details small and crisp so the outfit reads clearly even from a distance.

1. Bodice front: CO 18 sts in cream. Work 4 edge sts, Bodice Lace Panel, 4 edge sts for 14 rows.
2. Bodice back, make 2: CO 8 sts each and work plain stockinette to match the front height.
3. Short sleeves: pick up 12 sts around each armhole, knit 4 rows, then dec evenly to 8 sts and BO loosely.
4. Skirt: CO 28 sts in wisteria. Work stockinette, placing 1 small eyelet line near each front side by working yo, k2tog on every 6th row for 3 repeats.
5. Waist line: pick up around the join with sage and work 1 purl ridge, then BO.
6. Collar: pick up around the neckline with purple, increase every other stitch on the next round, work 1 round sage purl, 1 round purple knit, then BO loosely.
7. Hat: CO 6 sts in cream, increase evenly to 28 sts, knit 8 rnds, then inc every 4th st on the next round and knit 3 more rnds for the brim.
8. Ear spaces: before finishing the hat, BO 2 sts over each ear position on one round and cast them back on over the same spots on the next round. This creates neat little openings so the ears sit above the brim like the image.

Sew the head to the body, attach the ears before the hat, then place the hat so the brim tilts gently forward. Sew the arms at the side seam of the bodice and the legs close together under the skirt. The little friend should stand upright with a sweet, slightly formal posture.

Accessories

Mini Tote Bag

The bag is a simple upright market tote in the same beige as the bunny. It is softly squared with two rounded handles. The opening reveals a hint of purple inside, which can be a tiny scrap of yarn tucked in after finishing.

1. Base: CO 10 sts. Work 8 rows garter.
2. Body panels, make 2: pick up 10 sts along each long side and work 16 rows stockinette.
3. Side panels, make 2: CO 4 sts and work 16 rows stockinette.
4. Sew into a small box bag, leaving the top open.
5. Handles, make 2: CO 18 sts, work 2 rows garter, BO. Sew one handle to each side of the opening.
6. Tuck a short coil of purple yarn inside so the color echoes the flowers.

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Wisteria Bundle

The hanging wisteria cluster in the image is made from five short drooping stems in purple, gathered together at the top with green wrapping and finished with a few narrow leaves. The shape is more important than botanical perfection. The blooms should look soft, rounded, and slightly heavy.

1. For each flower stem, make 5: CO 3 sts in purple and work a 3-st I-cord.
2. At every 3rd row, make a tiny bloom knot by knitting into the front and back of the first stitch twice, turn, p4, turn, k2tog twice, then continue the I-cord.
3. Repeat the bloom knot 4 to 6 times down the length, spacing them closely toward the lower end.
4. Work stems at slightly different lengths from 2 1/4 to 3 inches so the cluster looks natural.
5. Make 3 leaves in sage: CO 3 sts, increase at each RS edge to 7 sts, work 4 rows even, then decrease at each RS edge to 3 sts and BO.
6. Bundle all stems together with sage yarn, wrap tightly at the top, attach the leaves, and bend gently into a loose fan.

Pear

The pear is small, plump, and softly ribbed from the vertical knit columns. It sits upright on the lace square. A dark little stalk at the top is enough. You do not need a leaf because the image shows a plain pear with a short curved stem only.

1. CO 6 sts in pear green, join.
2. Rnd 1: [k1, M1] around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 2: knit.
4. Rnd 3: [k2, M1] around. 16 sts.
5. Rnd 4: knit.
6. Rnd 5: [k3, M1] around. 20 sts.
7. Rnds 6 to 10: knit.
8. Rnd 11: [k2, k2tog] around. 15 sts.
9. Rnds 12 and 13: knit.
10. Rnd 14: [k1, k2tog] around. 10 sts.
11. Stuff firmly.
12. Work 3 rounds even for the neck.
13. Change to brown or olive, knit 3 tiny rounds for the stalk, then draw shut.

Lace Square

The cloth under the pear is a tiny white square with a soft lace border. It should not overpower the pear. The corners can curl a little, just as they do in the image, so do not block it completely flat if you want the same natural tabletop look.

1. CO 24 sts in white.
2. Rows 1 to 4: k2, p20, k2 on RS rows; p2, k20, p2 on WS rows.
3. Rows 5 and 9: k2, yo, k2tog, work to last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, k2.
4. Rows 6 and 10: work border stitches in reverse stockinette as established and knit the center stitches.
5. Rows 7 and 11: knit all stitches.
6. Rows 8 and 12: purl all stitches.
7. Rows 13 to 16: repeat the first 4 rows.
8. BO loosely. Thread the cast-on and bind-off corners lightly if you want a softer scalloped bend.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the large head to the body first, making sure the chin sits slightly forward. Attach the ears high on the crown and let them fall straight down. Place the bonnet after the ears are secure. Dress the bunny, then stitch the frock closed at the back with tiny matching stitches.

Embroider the large bunny face with two small vertical satin stitches for the eyes. Use brown yarn for a narrow inverted Y at the center of the muzzle. Keep the expression very quiet. The image shows no blush, no whiskers, and no heavy shaping lines.

For the fawn, add tiny black eyes, a small black nose, and a short black mouth line. Use ivory stitches to form the muzzle and three or four slim forehead spots. Keep the spots narrow and vertical so the face stays delicate rather than cartoonish.

Arrange the accessories as a small still life. Place the tote to the left of the bunny, the wisteria bundle in front, and the pear on the white square near the miniature companion. That layout helps the whole set read like the image.

Care Notes

Because the set includes lace, sculpted faces, and small accessories, it is best treated as a decorative handmade piece rather than a rough-play toy. Keep it away from constant pulling at the bonnet brim, collar frill, or wisteria stems.

• Dust gently with a soft makeup brush or dry artist brush
• Store flat or upright with tissue support under the bonnet brim and skirt hem
• Keep dark accessories away from pale pieces during storage
• Avoid hanging the tote by one handle for long periods

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Main bunny head is oval, smooth, and firmly stuffed
• Ears fall below the collar and sit evenly
• Bonnet brim ripples softly instead of standing stiff
• Collar and waist frills show purple with a narrow sage accent
• Front skirt has two lace panels with a plain center section
• Shoes have crossed laces and rounded toes
• Mini fawn has ivory muzzle and forehead spots
• Tote, wisteria, pear, and lace square are all scaled small and tidy

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

If the set needs deeper cleaning, spot clean only. Dab gently with a barely damp cloth and a little mild wool wash, then press with a dry towel. Reshape every piece by hand, especially the bonnet brim, collar, skirt hem, and the fawn hat before drying.

Lay flat on a clean towel away from direct sun or strong heat. Never twist or wring the pieces, and never soak the stuffed dolls for long periods. If the stuffing shifts, massage it back into place while the fabric is still slightly damp.

For long-term storage, wrap each doll in white tissue and keep the accessories in a small separate box or pouch. A breathable container is better than airtight plastic. This protects the pale yarn, keeps the lace open, and helps the set hold its gentle heirloom shape.