Cape-Coat Meadow Bunny – Knitting

This charming meadow bunny doll is dressed for a slow stroll through a flower garden: a soft beret with tiny blossoms, a leafy lace collar, a mossy cape-coat, and a sky-blue eyelet skirt. She also carries a sweet little friend plus a bouquet and a lace-trim pouch.

For makers who like to shop for yarn, doll safety eyes, ribbon, and mini buttons, this project is a perfect excuse to browse “worsted yarn,” “DK yarn,” “toy stuffing,” “embroidery floss,” and “doll accessories” lists before you cast on. The finished set looks heirloom, but the steps are friendly and steady.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

You will knit a seated/standing-style bunny with long floppy ears and simple embroidered features. Then you will add a structured cape-coat, a leaf-edged collar, a lacy eyelet skirt, Mary Jane shoes, a beret with tiny flowers, and two small accessories (bouquet + lace pouch). Finally, you will knit the tiny companion bear wearing a matching cape and skirt.

The look depends on clean stockinette, neat seaming, and light shaping. Keep stuffing firm but not hard so the doll holds her rounded cheeks and smooth skirt drape.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 11–12 in (28–30 cm) tall from feet to beret top, using DK weight.
• Companion bear: about 4.5–5 in (11–13 cm) tall.

Size varies with yarn and tension. Match the proportions by keeping the head large and rounded, the ears long, the body slightly tapered, and the skirt wide and swingy.

Yarn and Color Plan

• Cream (main bunny): DK weight, approx 110–140 yd (100–130 m).
• Moss green (cape-coat + leaf bag + bear cape): DK weight, approx 120–150 yd (110–140 m).
• Sky blue (bunny skirt + bear skirt): DK weight, approx 90–110 yd (80–100 m).
• Warm beige (shoes + beret): DK weight, approx 70–90 yd (65–80 m).
• White (lace collar + pouch): DK weight or light DK, approx 25–35 yd (23–32 m).
• Bear tan (bear head/body/limbs): DK weight, approx 35–55 yd (32–50 m).

Use smooth, non-fuzzy yarn for crisp stitches. If you prefer a plush look, choose a slightly loftier DK and knit tightly to prevent gaps.

Needles and Notions

• US 2 (2.75 mm) and US 3 (3.25 mm) straight needles or circulars for knitting flat.
• Double-pointed needles (optional) for tiny rounds, or use magic loop.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors.
• Polyfill stuffing.
• Scrap cardboard for blocking collar points (optional).
• Embroidery floss: black, medium brown, dusty pink, sage/green, and a tiny touch of blue/purple for beret flowers.
• 2 small buttons or snaps for coat closure (optional, hidden).
• 1 tiny button for bear cape (optional).
• Ribbon or cord for pouch tie (about 8 in / 20 cm).
• Thin cord or yarn for leaf bag strap (about 16–18 in / 40–46 cm).

Gauge

Gauge is not critical, but tight fabric is. Aim for about 26–28 sts per 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette on the smaller needle with DK yarn. If your fabric shows stuffing through the stitches, go down a needle size.

Abbreviations

• k knit
• p purl
• st(s) stitch(es)
• RS/WS right side/wrong side
• k2tog knit 2 together
• ssk slip, slip, knit
• yo yarn over
• m1L/m1R make 1 left/right
• sl1 slip 1 stitch purlwise
• psso pass slipped stitch over
• BO bind off
• CO cast on

Construction Notes

The bunny and bear are knit mostly flat and seamed. Work in stockinette unless stated. Use the smaller needle for all toy body parts to keep stitches dense. Use the larger needle for garments if you want a softer drape, but keep edges tidy.

Seams matter in a doll this clean. Use mattress stitch on stockinette seams. For garter edges, whip stitch works well. Stuff as you go so the head stays perfectly round and the limbs don’t wrinkle.

Main Bunny

Head (Cream)

The head is a rounded oval with gentle cheek fullness. You will seam the back and gather the top. The lower edge remains open to attach to the body.

1. CO 26 sts. Work 2 rows garter (k all rows) for a subtle neck edge stability.
2. Begin stockinette. Row 3 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (28)
3. Row 4 (WS): p all.
4. Row 5: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (30)
5. Row 6: p all.
6. Row 7: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (32)
7. Row 8: p all.

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Now build the roundest part of the head. Keep your edge stitches snug for a clean seam line.

1. Rows 9–18: work even in stockinette (RS knit, WS purl).
2. Row 19 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (30)
3. Row 20: p all.
4. Row 21: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (28)
5. Row 22: p all.
6. Row 23: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (26)
7. Row 24: p all.
8. Row 25: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (24)
9. Row 26: p all.
10. Row 27: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (22)

BO loosely on next WS row (purl BO looks tidy but standard BO is fine). Leave a long tail for seaming.

Shape and Seam the Head

Fold the head piece in half lengthwise with RS facing out. Mattress stitch the back seam from the lower edge up to the top. At the top, thread the tail through remaining edge bumps and pull gently to gather into a smooth dome.

Stuff firmly, shaping cheeks by adding a bit more stuffing toward the lower front. Do not close the lower opening yet.

Ears (Make 2, Cream)

These ears are long and softly floppy, with a slightly narrower base to sit under the beret. Knit them tight so they keep a gentle curve.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1–2: knit (garter border prevents curling at the very tip).
3. Row 3 (RS): k all.
4. Row 4 (WS): p all.
5. Repeat Rows 3–4 until ear measures about 4.75–5.25 in (12–13.5 cm) from CO edge.
6. Next RS row: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (8)
7. WS row: p all.
8. Next RS row: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (6)
9. WS row: p all.
10. BO remaining 6 sts.

Fold each ear lengthwise with WS inside. Whip stitch the long edge so the ear becomes a soft tube. Lightly stuff only the top third near the base, leaving the rest unstuffed to drape like the photo.

Body (Cream)

The body is a simple tapered tube with a slightly wider hip to support the skirt. Knit flat and seam.

1. CO 24 sts. Work 4 rows stockinette.
2. Increase for hip: Row 5 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (26)
3. Row 6: p all.
4. Row 7: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (28)
5. Rows 8–18: work even in stockinette.
6. Decrease for upper torso: Row 19 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (26)
7. Row 20: p all.
8. Row 21: repeat decrease row. (24)
9. Rows 22–28: work even.
10. BO.

Seam body into a tube. Stuff firmly, keeping the lower half slightly broader. Leave the top open for the neck join.

Arms (Make 2, Cream)

The arms are slim with gentle mitten hands. They hang straight down in the photo, so keep them lightly stuffed and not too stiff.

1. CO 12 sts. Rows 1–2: knit.
2. Begin stockinette. Rows 3–10: work even.
3. Shape wrist: Row 11 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (10)
4. WS: p all.
5. Rows 13–18: work even.
6. Hand shaping: Row 19 (RS): k all.
7. WS: p all.
8. Row 21 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (8)
9. WS: p all.
10. BO.

Seam each arm into a tube. Stuff lightly, with a touch more at the “hand” end. Flatten the top opening and whip stitch closed. Set aside.

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Legs (Make 2, Cream)

Legs are straight and slightly thicker than arms. The photo shows ribbed socks above shoes, so we will knit a short rib section at the top.

1. CO 14 sts. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib (starting RS with k1).
2. Switch to stockinette for 18 rows, or until leg length from rib to ankle is about 2.5–2.75 in (6.5–7 cm).
3. Shape ankle slightly: Row (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (12)
4. WS: p all.
5. Work 4 more rows stockinette.
6. BO.

Seam each leg into a tube and stuff firmly. Close the top edges for attaching to body later, but keep the lower end open if you want to insert a tiny felt sole. If not, close both ends neatly and rely on the shoes for shaping.

Tail (Cream)

A small tail peeks under the coat hem. Keep it subtle.

1. CO 8 sts. Work 6 rows stockinette.
2. Next RS: k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (6)
3. WS: p all. BO.

Seam into a tiny tube, stuff lightly, and gather closed.

Garments for Main Bunny

Leaf-Lace Collar (White)

The collar in the photo looks like soft leaf lobes around the neckline. This collar is knit as a flat strip with repeated “leaf” points, then sewn to the coat neckline or directly to the bunny.

Work on US 2 (2.75 mm) for crisp points.

1. CO 44 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): p all.
3. Row 2 (RS): k2, *yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 2, k2.

The above creates small eyelets and narrows at each leaf tip. Now add scalloped shaping with short repeats.

1. Row 3 (WS): p all.
2. Row 4 (RS): k2, *k1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1; repeat from * to last 2, k2.
3. Row 5 (WS): p all.
4. Row 6 (RS): k2, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; repeat from * to last 2, k2.
5. Row 7 (WS): p all.
6. Row 8 (RS): k all.
7. BO loosely on WS with purl BO if desired.

Lightly block the collar so each leaf point opens. If you want extra definition, pin each point into a rounded leaf shape while damp. Set aside.

Sky-Blue Eyelet Skirt (Blue)

The skirt is wide and softly flared with scattered eyelets. We will create a gentle A-line with simple increase panels and small “raindrop” eyelets. The waistband sits under the coat and above the legs.

Knit flat and seam. Use US 3 (3.25 mm) for drape.

Skirt Waistband

1. CO 56 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib for a neat waist edge.
3. Next RS row: k all, increasing 4 sts evenly across (m1 every ~14 sts). (60)

Skirt Body with Eyelets

We will place eyelets in offset columns. Keep them subtle and not too large. Each eyelet is made by yo, k2tog on RS rows.

1. Row 1 (RS): k all.
2. Row 2 (WS): p all.
3. Row 3 (RS): k6, *yo, k2tog, k10; repeat from * to end.
4. Row 4: p all.
5. Row 5 (RS): k all, increasing 4 sts evenly. (64)
6. Row 6: p all.
7. Row 7 (RS): k12, *yo, k2tog, k10; repeat from * to end.
8. Row 8: p all.
9. Row 9 (RS): k all.
10. Row 10: p all.

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Repeat Rows 5–10 (increase + eyelet rows alternating) until skirt measures about 4.5–5 in (11.5–13 cm) from waistband, ending with a WS purl row. You should have about 76–84 sts after increases, depending on how full you want the hem.

Skirt Hem Edge

The hem in the photo is softly finished, not heavily ruffled. Use a tidy border that still lies flat.

1. Next RS: k all.
2. Next WS: k all (garter ridge).
3. Next RS: k all.
4. BO loosely.

Seam skirt into a tube. Do not over-tighten the seam or the eyelets will pucker.

Moss Cape-Coat (Green)

The coat is the signature piece: a cape-like shape with short sleeves and a rounded, slightly open front that overlaps. The hem curves gently and the front edges look smooth and structured.

We will knit the coat in one piece from the neck down, flat, with a built-in front opening and a soft garter edging. Sleeves are picked up and knit short.

Coat Yoke

1. CO 46 sts.
2. Work 6 rows garter (k every row) to create the neat neck/edge band.
3. Set up edges: Next RS: k4, place marker, k38, place marker, k4. The outer 4 sts on each side remain garter for front edges.

Now shape the yoke with gentle increases so it sits over the shoulders like a cape. Keep the first and last 4 sts knit every row.

1. Increase Row (RS): k4, m1R, k to 4 sts from end, m1L, k4. (48)
2. WS: k4, p to last 4, k4.
3. Repeat these 2 rows 5 times. (58 sts)

The yoke should now reach just past the shoulder line of the bunny body. If your bunny is larger, add 1–2 more increase repeats.

Coat Body and Cape Shape

We will add increases near the side areas to create the A-line cape. This gives the coat the gentle “swing” seen over the skirt.

1. Next RS: k4, k10, m1R, k26, m1L, k10, k4. (60)
2. WS: k4, p to last 4, k4.
3. Repeat the above 2 rows 6 times. You will add 2 sts on each RS increase row. (72 sts)

Work 8 more rows even (maintain garter edges). The coat should now cover the upper skirt and end around mid-skirt, like the photo.

Divide for Short Sleeves

The photo shows short sleeves that end near the elbow, with the cream arms visible below. We will create arm openings by binding off small underarm sections, then picking up later.

1. Next RS: k4, k14, BO 6 sts, k to last 24 sts, BO 6 sts, k14, k4.
2. Next WS: k4, p to last 4, k4, casting on 6 sts over each bound-off gap using backward loop CO. Keep stitches snug so openings are neat.

Work 10 rows even. If you want a deeper cape curve, work 2 extra rows on the back only by short rows, but it is optional.

Coat Hem Finish

1. Work 4 rows garter across all sts (k every row) for a clean hem that matches the neckline.
2. BO loosely.

Pick Up and Knit Sleeves (Make 2)

With RS facing, pick up about 18–20 sts evenly around one arm opening. Join yarn. Knit flat back-and-forth for a sleeve that hangs naturally.

1. Row 1 (RS): k all.
2. Row 2 (WS): p all.
3. Repeat these 2 rows until sleeve measures about 1.25–1.5 in (3–4 cm).
4. Work 2 rows garter (k all rows).
5. BO.

Repeat for second sleeve. Seam sleeve underarm edges lightly if needed, but keep them flexible so the arm can sit inside smoothly.

Optional Hidden Closure

The coat in the photo looks like it overlaps softly without obvious buttons. If you want it to stay closed, sew a tiny snap inside near the chest. Place it under the collar so it remains invisible.

Leaf Crossbody Bag (Green)

The bag is a small leaf shape with visible “vein” lines and a long strap crossing the front. It sits at the hip over the skirt.

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Leaf Bag Front (Green)

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1 (RS): k1, m1R, k1, m1L, k1. (5)
3. Row 2: p all.
4. Row 3: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (7)
5. Row 4: p all.
6. Row 5: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (9)
7. Row 6: p all.
8. Rows 7–14: work even in stockinette.

Create a central vein by adding a raised line. The simplest way is to embroider later, but we can also knit a ridge.

1. Row 15 (RS): k4, p1, k4 (a tiny purl bump line on RS).
2. Row 16 (WS): p4, k1, p4.
3. Rows 17–20: work even.
4. Begin shaping leaf tip: Row 21 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (7)
5. Row 22: p all.
6. Row 23: repeat decrease. (5)
7. Row 24: p all.
8. Row 25: repeat decrease. (3)
9. BO 3 sts.

Leaf Bag Back (Green)

Work the same as the front but without the ridge rows (Row 15–16). This keeps the back smooth.

Assemble Leaf Bag

Place front and back WS together. Whip stitch around edges, leaving the top slightly open (about 1 in / 2.5 cm). Lightly stuff or insert a small felt piece to keep the leaf plump.

For strap, crochet a chain if you crochet, or simply make an i-cord. If you prefer knitting only, use this quick strap:

1. CO 3 sts. Knit i-cord: slide sts to other needle, pull yarn across back, k3. Repeat until strap is 16–18 in (40–46 cm).
2. BO and sew ends to the leaf bag sides.

Mary Jane Shoes (Beige, Make 2)

These shoes are rounded with a strap across the top. They fit over the cream feet and create the soft “bootie” look in the photo.

Work with US 2 (2.75 mm) for a snug fit.

Shoe Sole and Toe

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (14)
3. Row 2 (WS): p all.
4. Row 3: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (16)
5. Row 4: p all.
6. Rows 5–10: work even stockinette.

Shape the Instep

1. Row 11 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (14)
2. Row 12: p all.
3. Row 13: repeat decrease. (12)
4. Row 14: p all.

Form the Shoe

Fold the piece so the toe is rounded. Seam the toe edge first, then seam the heel. You will create a soft slipper shape.

For strap: CO 6 sts, knit 10 rows garter, BO. Sew one end to the outer side of shoe opening, wrap across, and sew to inner side. Add a tiny stitch “button” with embroidery floss if desired.

Beret (Beige/Brown)

The beret sits low and round, with a small top nub and a rolled brim. Add embroidered flowers on one side, as in the photo.

Beret Band

1. CO 48 sts and join to work in the round, or knit flat and seam later.
2. Work 8 rounds (or rows) in k1, p1 rib for a soft brim.
3. Next round/RS: knit all, increasing 12 sts evenly (m1 every 4 sts). (60)

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Beret Crown

Work in stockinette (knit all rounds) for a smooth crown.

1. Rounds 1–10: knit.
2. Decrease round: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to end. (54)
3. Knit 1 round.
4. Decrease round: *k7, k2tog; repeat to end. (48)
5. Knit 1 round.
6. Decrease round: *k6, k2tog; repeat. (42)
7. Knit 1 round.
8. Decrease round: *k5, k2tog; repeat. (36)
9. Knit 1 round.
10. Decrease round: *k4, k2tog; repeat. (30)
11. Knit 1 round.
12. Decrease round: *k3, k2tog; repeat. (24)
13. Decrease round: *k2, k2tog; repeat. (18)
14. Decrease round: *k1, k2tog; repeat. (12)

Cut yarn, thread through remaining 12 sts, pull tight to close. For the tiny top nub, make a small knot inside and tack it so a little bump shows on top.

Embroider Beret Flowers

On one side of the beret, create a small cluster: a dusty pink rosebud, a tiny white blossom, and a small blue/purple dot flower, with green leaves. Keep it delicate and raised.

• Rosebud: use dusty pink, make 3–4 lazy daisy stitches close together.
• White blossoms: 5 tiny straight stitches radiating from a center, then a small knot.
• Blue/purple accent: one French knot or a tiny satin stitch oval.
• Leaves: 2–3 lazy daisy leaves in sage/green.

Accessories

Lavender Bouquet (Simple Craft Detail)

The photo shows a small bunch of lavender tied with twine. You can make this without extra knitting by bundling small dried sprigs or faux stems. Tie with a thin string and stitch it lightly to the bunny’s hand so it stays upright.

Lace-Trim Pouch (White)

This pouch hangs at the bunny’s right side and looks like soft fabric with lace. We will knit a tiny pouch and add a lace edge effect using eyelets.

1. CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): k2, *yo, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 2, k2. (eyelet row for “lace”).
4. Row 8 (WS): p all.
5. Rows 9–14: stockinette.
6. BO.

Fold in half and seam sides, leaving top open. Thread ribbon or cord through the eyelet row and tie into a bow. Stitch the pouch to the bunny’s hand or coat edge so it sits beside the skirt.

Companion Bear

Bear Head (Tan)

The bear is small and simple with tiny ears. It wears a matching green cape and blue skirt like the bunny, scaled down.

1. CO 18 sts. Work 2 rows garter.
2. Stockinette: Row 3 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (20)
3. Row 4: p all.
4. Row 5: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (22)
5. Rows 6–12: work even.
6. Row 13 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (20)
7. Row 14: p all.
8. Row 15: repeat decrease. (18)
9. Row 16: p all.
10. Row 17: repeat decrease. (16)
11. BO. Seam and gather top. Stuff firmly.

Bear Ears (Make 2, Tan)

1. CO 6 sts. Work 4 rows stockinette.
2. Next RS: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. (4)
3. WS: p all. BO.

Gather each ear slightly and stitch to the top sides of the head.

Bear Body (Tan)

1. CO 16 sts. Work 10 rows stockinette.
2. Row 11 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (14)
3. Row 12: p all.
4. Rows 13–16: work even.
5. BO. Seam into tube and stuff lightly.

Bear Arms (Make 2, Tan)

1. CO 8 sts. Work 10 rows stockinette.
2. BO. Seam, stuff lightly, close ends.

Bear Legs (Make 2, Tan)

1. CO 10 sts. Work 12 rows stockinette.
2. BO. Seam, stuff, close ends.

Bear Cape (Green)

Mini version of the bunny coat, shaped like a little capelet.

1. CO 26 sts. Work 4 rows garter.
2. Next RS: k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (28)
3. WS: k all.
4. Repeat these 2 rows 3 times. (34)
5. Work 6 rows stockinette.
6. Work 2 rows garter. BO.

Fold around bear shoulders and stitch at neckline. Add a tiny button or tack stitch at front to close.

Bear Skirt (Blue)

1. CO 28 sts. Work 4 rows k1,p1 rib.
2. Next RS: k all, increase 4 sts evenly. (32)
3. Rows 1–8: stockinette, adding one eyelet row at Row 5 (RS): k6, *yo, k2tog, k6; repeat.
4. Work 2 rows garter, BO loosely.

Seam skirt into tube and fit around bear waist.

Assembly

Attach Head to Body

Place the open bottom of the head on the top of the body. Center the face so the seam is at the back. Stitch around the neck opening using small whip stitches. Add a touch more stuffing at the join so the neck looks full and stable.

Attach Legs

Position legs at the lower front of the body so the bunny can sit with feet forward. Stitch each leg securely, angling slightly outward like the photo. Add extra stitches at the inner thigh area for strength.

Attach Arms

Sew arms slightly below the neck line, more to the sides than the front. In the photo, the arms hang straight with accessories in hand. Tack each arm at the shoulder and add 2–3 hidden stitches along the upper arm to keep it from swinging too far.

Attach Ears

Stitch ears to the head sides, set slightly back so the face stays open and round. The ears should drape downward, ending near the skirt top. Add a few anchoring stitches along the first inch (2.5 cm) of ear base to prevent twisting.

Tail Placement

Stitch the small tail to the back of the body, centered and low, so it peeks under the coat hem.

Dressing the Bunny

Put on the Skirt

Slide the blue skirt up from the feet to the waist. Place the seam at the back. Tack the waistband to the body with a few stitches so it stays smooth under the coat.

Add the Collar

Wrap the white collar around the neckline, leaf points facing downward over the coat line. You can sew it to the bunny neck first, then place the coat over it, or stitch it to the coat neckline after fitting. The photo shows the collar sitting cleanly above the coat.

Put on the Cape-Coat

Slide the coat on, guiding arms through sleeve openings. Adjust the overlap so the front edges cross softly. If you are adding a hidden snap, stitch it under the collar area now. The coat hem should cover the upper skirt but not hide the eyelets.

Add the Leaf Bag

Place the strap over one shoulder so the leaf bag rests at the hip. In the photo, the strap crosses the front diagonally. Stitch the strap lightly at the shoulder area to prevent slipping.

Shoes

Slip shoes onto the feet. If they feel loose, add a tiny tack stitch at the heel. The strap should sit across the top of the foot like a Mary Jane.

Beret

Set the beret low on the head, slightly tilted. Place the flower embroidery cluster to one side (as in the photo). Tack the beret near the ear bases so it holds its tilt and does not slide forward.

Bear Assembly and Styling

Sew bear head to bear body. Attach arms and legs. Dress the bear in the mini skirt and cape. The bear should look slightly “snuggled” against the bunny’s side, so stitch the bear lightly to the bunny’s hand or coat edge if you want a fixed pose.

Embroidery for Bunny Face

The bunny has a minimal, sweet expression: small vertical mouth line and a tiny “Y” shape, with simple black eyes. Keep it delicate and centered.

• Eyes: Use black floss. Make two small vertical satin stitches, placed evenly and low enough to feel gentle.
• Nose and mouth: Use medium brown floss. Stitch a tiny triangle or short horizontal nose, then a short vertical line down, then two small diagonals for the “Y” mouth.

Before finalizing, pinch the cheeks and check symmetry. Tiny changes in placement make a big difference.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check that the head seam is centered at the back and the face is straight. Re-seat the beret, then secure the ears under it. Add a final small tack stitch at each coat edge so the overlap stays smooth. Confirm the bear sits neatly and does not pull the skirt out of shape.

Care Notes

Handle as a decorative doll. Avoid heavy pulling on the leaf bag strap, collar points, and beret flowers. If gifting to a child, consider replacing any small buttons or snaps with stitched closures and embroidering eyes instead of using plastic components.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head is round, firmly stuffed, and seam is hidden at back.
• Ears are attached evenly and drape to similar lengths.
• Skirt sits at waist and hem hangs level.
• Coat overlap looks smooth and sleeves are even.
• Collar leaf points are centered and visible.
• Leaf bag strap is secured so it won’t slide.
• Beret tilt is tacked and flower cluster faces outward.
• Bear outfit matches and bear is positioned securely.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean only when possible. Use a damp cloth with mild soap, then press with a towel to remove moisture. Let air dry fully away from direct sun. For long-term storage, place the doll in a breathable cotton bag, support the skirt with tissue, and keep away from humidity to protect the lace collar and embroidered flowers.