This woodland bunny set is a charming heirloom-style knit with a soft bonnet, a mossy Fair-Isle coat, a neat skirt, cozy shoes, and a full set of storybook accessories. It is designed for makers who love collectible animal dolls, handmade nursery decor, artisan stuffed toys, boutique knitted gifts, and seasonal spring display pieces. The finished set looks beautiful on a shelf, in a children’s room, or beside a basket of yarn and books. Every detail is written to help you create the same gentle silhouette, muted palette, and quiet handmade character shown in the image.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Project Overview
This design includes the following knitted pieces:
- Main bunny doll
- Bonnet with scalloped front edge
- Long-sleeved Fair-Isle cardigan with button closure
- Simple skirt with embroidered floral hem
- Soft shoes
- Mini mouse doll
- Mini mouse cardigan
- Small tote bag
- Tiny book
- Wire-look glasses
- Small white flower bouquet
The bunny in the image has a calm, upright shape with a slightly oversized head, long drooping ears, short rounded arms, and sturdy, seated-animal style legs. The clothing is softly fitted rather than tight. Nothing should look stretched.
The overall color story is muted and natural. Use warm oatmeal, pale beige, moss green, soft cream, dusty pink, and a slightly deeper taupe for shadows, soles, and tiny finishing details.
Skill Level
Intermediate.
A patient beginner can also make this set if they are comfortable with the following:
- Knit and purl
- Working in the round
- Basic shaping
- Simple stranded colorwork
- Mattress stitch and whipstitch seaming
- Picking up stitches
- Light embroidery
Finished Size
The main bunny should measure about 10 to 11 inches tall seated straight with bonnet on, or about 11 to 12 inches tall when measured to the top of the bonnet crown.
The mini mouse should measure about 4 to 4.5 inches tall.
The tote bag should be about 2 inches tall without handles.
The little book should be about 1.5 inches wide.
The bouquet should be scaled to sit beside the mouse without overpowering it.
Materials
- Sport-weight wool or wool-blend yarn in warm beige for bunny body
- Sport-weight yarn in pale oatmeal for bonnet and bodice panel
- Sport-weight yarn in moss green for cardigan, skirt, shoes, mini mouse cardigan, and tiny book cover
- Sport-weight yarn in cream for colorwork and floral embroidery accents
- Small amount of dusty pink for nose details
- Small amount of taupe or muted brown for shoe sole accents and tiny shadows
- Very small amount of pink-beige for mouse tail and nose
- Pair of 2.25 mm needles
- Pair of 2.75 mm needles
- Set of double-pointed needles in matching sizes, or magic loop setup
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Waste yarn
- Polyester toy stuffing
- Small black safety eyes or black embroidered knot eyes for bunny
- Tiny black beads or knots for mouse eyes
- 2 to 3 tiny buttons for bunny cardigan
- Thin craft wire for glasses
- Cardstock scrap for book insert
- Floral wire or wrapped thread stems for bouquet
Gauge
Gauge is not critical in the same way as fitted garments, but it matters a great deal for proportion.
Aim for a firm fabric so stuffing does not show through.
- 28 to 30 stitches over 4 inches in stockinette on 2.75 mm needles
- 32 to 34 rows over 4 inches in stockinette on 2.75 mm needles
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If your stitches are loose, go down a needle size. The doll should look dense, smooth, and tailored.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
- kfb = knit front and back
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- m1 = make 1
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
- sl = slip
- BO = bind off
Color Notes
The image has a soft woodland palette.
- Main body: warm beige with a hint of blush
- Bonnet: pale oatmeal
- Cardigan and skirt: muted olive-moss green
- Cardigan motifs and hem embroidery: soft cream
- Noses: dusty pink
- Shoe sole edge: muted taupe
Do not use high-contrast white. A softer cream looks closer to the picture.
Construction Order
- Knit legs and body
- Knit arms
- Knit head
- Knit ears
- Assemble and stuff bunny
- Knit skirt
- Knit cardigan
- Knit bonnet
- Knit shoes
- Knit mini mouse and its cardigan
- Make bag, book, glasses, and bouquet
- Dress, detail, and finish
Main Bunny: Legs
Make 2.
Using beige and smaller needles, CO 12 sts. Divide evenly for working in the round.
Rounds 1 to 4: Knit.
Round 5: K1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. 14 sts.
Rounds 6 to 10: Knit.
Round 11: K1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. 16 sts.
Rounds 12 to 18: Knit.
This creates a slightly wider lower leg with a gentle taper above the foot area. The bunny in the image has compact, grounded feet rather than long narrow legs.
Round 19: K2tog, knit to 2 sts before end, ssk. 14 sts.
Rounds 20 to 24: Knit.
Stuff the lower leg lightly, keeping the ankle area flexible.
Break yarn on first leg and leave live. Complete second leg and keep live.
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Main Bunny: Join Legs and Knit Body
Knit across second leg, CO 4 sts for crotch bridge, knit across first leg, CO 4 sts. 36 sts.
Place a marker at the start of round.
Rounds 1 to 5: Knit.
Round 6: K16, k2tog, k18. 35 sts.
Round 7: Knit.
Round 8: K15, k2tog, k18. 34 sts.
Continue in this manner, decreasing one stitch every other round centered at the lower belly once or twice until the body looks slightly narrower above the hips. End with 32 sts.
Rounds 13 to 22: Knit.
Stuff the legs firmly and the body more softly. The image shows a plump but tidy torso, not a hard cylindrical shape.
Round 23: K6, k2tog, k14, ssk, k8. 30 sts.
Round 24: Knit.
Round 25: K5, k2tog, k14, ssk, k7. 28 sts.
Rounds 26 to 30: Knit.
This upper torso should be compact. It needs to support the cardigan and skirt without making the doll bulky under clothes.
Main Bunny: Neck
Round 31: K2tog around. 14 sts.
Rounds 32 to 35: Knit.
The neck should be quite short and firm. Add a little extra stuffing here before continuing.
Main Bunny: Head
Switch to larger needles if needed for smoother shaping.
Round 1: Kfb in every st. 28 sts.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: K1, kfb around. 42 sts.
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: K2, kfb around. 56 sts.
Rounds 6 to 18: Knit.
The head should be broad and softly rounded. It is almost spherical, but slightly flatter at the face and a little fuller at the cheeks.
Insert eyes between rounds 11 and 12, spaced about 10 stitches apart. The eyes are small, dark, and widely set enough to keep a gentle expression.
Begin stuffing firmly, especially behind the face and under the crown.
Round 19: K6, k2tog around. 49 sts.
Round 20: Knit.
Round 21: K5, k2tog around. 42 sts.
Round 22: Knit.
Round 23: K4, k2tog around. 35 sts.
Round 24: Knit.
Round 25: K3, k2tog around. 28 sts.
Round 26: K2, k2tog around. 21 sts.
Round 27: K1, k2tog around. 14 sts.
Finish stuffing very firmly. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close.
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Main Bunny: Face Shaping
Use matching beige yarn for sculpting.
- Indent lightly at each eye socket
- Create two soft muzzle curves by drawing yarn from lower eye line toward center snout
- Shape a small triangular nose area
- Embroider a short vertical line down from nose to mouth split
- Add a shallow Y-shaped mouth
The face in the image is understated. Keep embroidery fine. Avoid a large nose or heavy smile.
Use dusty pink sparingly at the center nose triangle, then outline very lightly with beige if needed.
Main Bunny: Arms
Make 2.
Using beige, CO 10 sts and work in the round.
Rounds 1 to 5: Knit.
Round 6: K1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. 12 sts.
Rounds 7 to 14: Knit.
Round 15: K2tog, knit to 2 sts before end, ssk. 10 sts.
Rounds 16 to 22: Knit.
Stuff only the lower half lightly. Flatten the upper arm and sew closed.
The arms should curve gently inward when attached, with the wrists resting near the skirt sides.
Main Bunny: Ears
Make 2.
The ears are long, wide, and softly drooping. They fall from near the upper side of the bonnet and reach almost to the waistline.
Using beige, CO 8 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. 10 sts.
Row 4: Purl.
Continue increasing 1 stitch at each edge every RS row until you have 22 sts.
Work even in garter or stockinette with a garter edge for 26 rows.
Shape tip:
Row 1: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 2: Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows until 8 sts remain.
Work 2 rows even, then BO knitwise.
Make a second ear.
Steam lightly so each ear lies flat with a soft taper. Do not overstuff. In fact, do not stuff at all. These ears should hang naturally.
Assemble Main Bunny
Sew arms to the body just below the neck.
Attach ears to the head sides, beginning slightly behind the eye line and angling backward very gently. The ear roots should be broad and low-profile.
Check that both ears hang evenly and frame the bonnet opening.
Before dressing, shape the body so the doll can stand with support or sit neatly for display.
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Skirt
The skirt sits high and smooth, then widens slightly. It should not be very flared. The lower edge is finished with tiny embroidered flowers.
Using moss green, CO 48 sts and join for working in the round.
Rounds 1 to 4: K1, p1 rib.
Rounds 5 to 10: Knit.
Round 11: Kfb every 8th stitch. 54 sts.
Rounds 12 to 22: Knit.
Round 23: Kfb every 9th stitch. 60 sts.
Rounds 24 to 32: Knit.
Round 33: Purl.
Rounds 34 to 35: Knit.
BO loosely.
Sew or gather waistband slightly if needed so it sits smoothly at the bunny’s waist.
Using cream yarn, embroider tiny star-like flowers around the hem. Make each flower with 5 small straight stitches radiating from a center point. Scatter them lightly rather than forming a strict border.
The image shows delicate little blossoms near the skirt edge, not bold daisies or large motifs.
Cardigan
This cardigan is the signature piece. It is a moss-green coat-style cardigan with small cream stranded motifs across the upper chest and lower front panels. It has garter borders, long sleeves, a gentle A-line body, and tiny buttons down the front.
Work flat from the lower edge upward.
Using moss green, CO 58 sts.
Rows 1 to 6: Knit every row for garter border.
Row 7 RS: K4, knit to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 8 WS: K4, purl to last 4 sts, k4.
Repeat rows 7 and 8 for 10 rows total.
Now begin slight shaping so the cardigan hangs gently over the skirt.
Decrease 1 stitch at each side every 8th row 3 times. 52 sts.
Work even for 6 rows.
Lower Front Colorwork Panels
At the lower front sections, work mirrored cream motifs over the first 10 stitches after the left border and the last 10 stitches before the right border. Keep the center back plain.
Suggested motif arrangement:
- Use tiny diamonds and hooked petal shapes
- Keep the motifs vertical and compact
- Limit each motif section to about 10 rows in height
- Do not extend motifs across the full body
This placement matches the image, where the strongest motifs sit on the lower fronts rather than all around the cardigan.
Divide for Fronts and Back
Work until cardigan reaches underarm level.
Next RS row: Work 13 sts for left front, BO 4 sts, work 18 sts for back, BO 4 sts, work 13 sts for right front.
Work each section separately.
Back
Work 18 sts straight for 8 rows.
Upper Chest Colorwork:
Across the upper back and shoulder area, add small scattered cream motifs for 8 rows. Use tiny snowdrop-like or star-like shapes with ample green between them.
Shape shoulders:
BO 5 sts at start of next 2 rows. Place remaining 8 sts on hold for neck.
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Left Front
Maintain 4 garter border stitches at front edge.
Work 6 rows straight.
Begin neck shaping at front edge:
Decrease 1 stitch at neck edge every other RS row 4 times.
At the same time, work upper chest cream motifs across the shoulder area. The image shows a broken Fair-Isle scatter rather than dense traditional banding.
When front matches back height, BO shoulder 5 sts, then 4 sts.
Right Front
Work to match left front, reversing all shaping.
Add 2 or 3 buttonholes in the garter band. Each buttonhole can be made by k2tog, yo on an RS row.
Sleeves
Using moss green, pick up 24 sts around each armhole.
Work in the round or flat as preferred.
Rounds 1 to 18: Stockinette, decreasing 1 stitch every 6th round 3 times. 21 sts.
Rounds 19 to 22: Knit every round for a rolled or softly finished cuff.
BO loosely.
The sleeves in the image are smooth and lightly tapered, finishing at the wrist without a deep rib cuff.
Cardigan Finishing
Sew shoulder seams.
Pick up around the neckline and knit 2 rows in garter for a neat edge if needed.
Sew on tiny buttons.
Lightly steam the cardigan, protecting buttons and motifs.
Bonnet
The bonnet is pale oatmeal with a close crown and a softly scalloped front opening. It frames the face and leaves the long ears বাইরে the bonnet, falling from either side. The bonnet does not tie under the chin in the picture.
Work flat.
Using oatmeal, CO 42 sts.
Rows 1 to 6: Knit every row.
Row 7 RS: K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 8 WS: K3, knit to last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat these 2 rows for 18 more rows.
This creates a smooth bonnet body with garter side bands.
Scalloped Front Edge
Along the face opening edge, pick up stitches if you prefer to add the trim after shaping. Or work it as an attached border.
For the trim:
- Pick up about 30 to 34 sts around the front opening
- Row 1: Knit
- Row 2: K2tog, yo across in a gentle repeat spaced evenly
- Row 3: Knit
- Row 4: Make tiny scallops by repeating k2tog, yo, k1 in a balanced rhythm
- Row 5: Knit
- BO loosely
The edge should look softly frilled, not lacy and not deep. It frames the face like a tiny ruffle.
Bonnet Crown Shaping
Fold bonnet with RS together and seam the back head edge for about two-thirds of the length.
Gather the top slightly to round the crown.
Try it on the bunny before securing. It should sit low on the forehead and cover the top of the head, with the ears emerging freely from the sides.
Shoes
The bunny wears soft knitted shoes in moss green with a cream upper opening and a slightly darker sole edge.
Make 2.
Using taupe or muted brown, CO 10 sts.
Knit 4 rows in garter for sole.
Switch to moss green.
Pick up around sole if working three-dimensionally, or continue flat and seam later.
Work 8 rows in stockinette, shaping the toe by decreasing 2 stitches centered at front every other row 2 times.
Change to cream and knit 2 rows for the upper opening.
BO loosely.
Sew around the foot with the seam underneath. The shoes should look rounded and cozy, not pointed.
Mini Mouse
This tiny companion has a pear-shaped body, tiny round ears, a pointed little nose, a thin tail, and a miniature green cardigan tied at the neck with cream.
Mouse Body and Head
Using pale beige, CO 8 sts and work in the round.
Round 1: Kfb around. 16 sts.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
Rounds 4 to 10: Knit.
Round 11: K2tog every 5th and 6th stitch around. 20 sts.
Rounds 12 to 15: Knit.
Round 16: K2tog every 4th and 5th stitch around. 16 sts.
Round 17: Knit.
Round 18: K2tog around. 8 sts.
Stuff lightly before closing. Shape into a tiny pear. The lower body should be slightly fuller than the head.
Mouse Snout
Embroider a tiny pink triangular nose and a very short center stitch downward.
Add two tiny dark eyes wide apart for a sweet expression.
Mouse Ears
Make 2.
CO 6 sts in taupe-beige.
Work 4 rows stockinette.
Draw closed into a tiny half-circle and attach near the head top.
Mouse Arms
Make 2 tiny cords or knitted tubes about 1 inch long. Attach at body sides.
Mouse Tail
Use pink-beige yarn. Make an i-cord or twisted cord about 3 inches long. Sew to lower back.
Mouse Cardigan
Using moss green, CO 20 sts flat.
Work 2 rows garter.
Row 3 RS: K2, knit to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 4 WS: K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat for 8 rows.
Divide for tiny sleeves if desired, or simply wrap this as a little coat around the mouse body and seam at the back.
Finish with a cream tie at neck level. In the image, the mouse cardigan opens at the front and falls into a soft rounded shape.
Tote Bag
Using taupe-beige, CO 14 sts.
Work in stockinette with 1 stitch garter edge on each side for 20 rows.
Make 2 identical rectangles.
Sew sides and base, leaving top open.
For handles, knit or crochet two narrow cords and attach securely.
The bag should be structured but soft, plain, and unadorned.
Tiny Book
Using moss green, CO 12 sts.
Knit a rectangle large enough to wrap a tiny folded cardstock insert.
Suggested size is about 1.5 inches by 1 inch.
Insert white folded paper or cardstock pages and seam the cover around it.
Add one vertical spine line with matching yarn if desired.
Glasses
Use very thin craft wire.
- Shape two small round lenses
- Twist a tiny bridge between them
- Form slim side arms
- Keep them slightly oversized in a delicate vintage style
The glasses in the image rest on the table rather than on the bunny. They should look light, fine, and slightly whimsical.
Flower Bouquet
Make 6 to 8 tiny white flowers.
Each flower can be formed with small looped petals in white yarn around a wrapped stem.
Group the flowers together and bind the stems with pale green yarn.
The bouquet should be modest and fresh-looking. It sits low in the foreground and should not be wider than the mini mouse body.
Dressing the Bunny
- Place the skirt at the waist
- Fit the cardigan over the arms and button lightly
- Put on the shoes
- Set the bonnet over the head after ears are arranged
- Adjust the scalloped edge so it frames the face evenly
The cardigan should remain slightly open at the center so the pale bodice area peeks through above the skirt. This is visible in the image and helps create the layered look.
If desired, knit a simple cream chest panel or underbodice band to sit beneath the cardigan opening. A narrow rectangle sewn at the torso front works well.
Styling Notes for Accuracy
- Keep the face simple and calm
- Do not overstuff the ears
- Bonnet must be pale and softly scalloped
- Cardigan must be olive green with small cream motifs at upper chest and lower fronts
- Skirt must be green with tiny embroidered flowers near hem
- Shoes should be rounded and cozy
- Mouse should be noticeably smaller and slightly rounder than the bunny
- Accessories should feel quiet and literary, not bright or playful
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew all seams neatly and hide yarn tails inside the pieces. Check that the head sits centered over the body and does not lean forward.
Adjust the face before dressing fully. Tiny changes in eye depth, nose placement, and mouth angle make a big difference.
Keep the nose small, the mouth short, and the cheeks softly rounded. This preserves the gentle antique look.
Care Notes
Display pieces are best kept away from direct sunlight, moisture, and heavy handling.
If the set is intended for décor, place it on a shelf or tabletop where the bonnet trim and colorwork will stay crisp and clean.
If given to a child, replace beads or safety eyes with embroidered eyes and secure every accessory firmly.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Both ears hang evenly
- Bonnet frames the face symmetrically
- Cardigan fronts match in length
- Buttons are secure
- Skirt sits level
- Shoes are the same height
- Mouse tail is centered
- Bag handles are even
- Book closes neatly
- Bouquet is proportionate
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap when needed.
Do not soak assembled dolls unless absolutely necessary, and do not wring. Press gently in a towel and reshape while damp.
Store flat or upright in a dust-free cabinet. Tissue paper around the bonnet and cardigan helps preserve the silhouette during storage.
For long-term keepsake storage, use a breathable cotton bag instead of plastic.
