This charming knitted bunny set is designed to look like a boutique heirloom rabbit doll with a soft beret, a leafy wrap cape, a flowered cream dress, neat little shoes, and tiny woodland-style props. It has the sweet look collectors search for when shopping for a handmade bunny doll, knitted nursery gift, stuffed rabbit decor piece, or artisan toy for spring displays. The finished set feels polished, giftable, and beautifully detailed while still being approachable for patient beginners who enjoy shaping, seaming, embroidery, and small finishing work.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Design Overview
This pattern creates the full scene shown in the image: the bunny, cream beret, green wrap cape, cream skirted dress with pink honeysuckle-style flowers, green shoes, cream envelope purse, a tiny bee companion, a small honey bottle prop, and a tied flower bundle.
The bunny itself has a rounded head, long downward ears, a compact seated body, slim arms, short legs, and a softly shaped muzzle. The clothing is proportioned to sit close to the body, with the cape draping wide over the shoulders and the skirt spreading gently around the hips.
The overall scale is small and refined. Use smooth yarn with crisp stitch definition so the stockinette remains neat and the textured leaf-and-bobble cape panels stay visible. A slightly firm gauge is important because the image shows a tidy stuffed finish with very little looseness.
Materials
- Main bunny color: light beige or warm oatmeal DK yarn
- Beret and purse color: soft cream DK yarn
- Cape and shoes color: mossy leaf green DK yarn
- Dress base: soft cream or ivory DK yarn
- Bee colors: golden yellow, black, cream, berry pink, and a small amount of gray
- Flower bundle colors: pale green, dusty pink, cream, and soft mauve
- Honey bottle: amber-gold yarn, cream yarn, tiny amount of tan
- Needles: 2.75 mm and 3 mm straight needles or DPNs, depending on your preferred method
- Tapestry needle for seaming and duplicate stitch
- Stitch markers
- Safety eyes or black embroidery thread
- Stuffing
- Small button for purse flap
- Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for optional sole inserts
Suggested Gauge
In stockinette stitch on 3 mm needles, aim for a firm fabric that gives about 28 stitches and 38 rows over 4 inches. Exact gauge is less important than proportion, but the fabric must hold stuffing cleanly and keep the bunny’s face smooth.
If your stitches look open, go down a needle size. If the doll becomes much larger than expected, the cape may not sit correctly and the beret may lose its close, softly slouched look.
Finished Size
The seated bunny, not including the beret top nub, should measure about 9 to 10 inches tall. The bee companion should be about 3 inches tall. The purse should be about 2 inches wide, and the honey bottle about 1.5 inches tall.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- st st = stockinette stitch
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- p2tog = purl 2 together
- yo = yarn over
- mb = make bobble: kfb, kfb in same st, turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p2tog, p1, p2tog, turn, k3, pass center over sides
Notes Before You Begin
- The bunny is worked mostly flat and seamed for easy shaping control.
- Arms, legs, and ears should be stuffed lightly. The head and body should be stuffed firmly but smoothly.
- The floral motifs on the skirt are added afterward with duplicate stitch and tiny embroidered accents.
- The cape is the statement garment. Take your time with its mirrored leafy texture and bobbles.
- Read each section fully before starting because several pieces are shaped to match the image very closely.
Bunny Head
Using beige yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 36 sts.
- Rows 1–10: Begin with a purl row and work 10 rows in st st.
- Row 11: k3, kfb, k12, kfb, k4, kfb, k12, kfb, k3. 40 sts.
- Rows 12–22: Work in st st.
- Row 23: k3, ssk, k12, k2tog, k4, ssk, k12, k2tog, k3. 36 sts.
- Rows 24–30: Work in st st.
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The head is intentionally only gently widened because the image shows a smooth oval face rather than a very round oversized amigurumi-style head. The muzzle shaping comes from stuffing and facial sculpting rather than extreme row shaping.
BO loosely, leaving a long tail. Fold with right sides together and seam side edges to form a tube. Gather the top opening tightly. Leave the lower opening open for joining to the neck and body. Stuff very firmly, smoothing the cheeks with your fingers as you go.
Muzzle and Facial Sculpting
Thread beige yarn on a tapestry needle. Mark eye positions slightly above center, spaced about 8 stitches apart. The nose sits low and centered, with the mouth directly below it in a tiny split Y shape.
Use one long strand to sculpt the face lightly. Enter at the neck opening, bring the needle out at one eye point, pass across to the other eye point, then return to the base. Pull gently. This creates the shallow inward set that matches the image.
Embroider the nose as a small vertical triangle in dark taupe or brownish beige. Add a short vertical line downward and form two soft curved mouth halves. Keep the expression neutral and sweet, not smiling too broadly.
Ears Make 2
Using beige yarn, CO 12 sts.
- Rows 1–4: Work in st st.
- Row 5: k1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
- Rows 6–14: Work in st st.
- Row 15: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
- Rows 16–22: Work in st st.
- Row 23: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
- Row 24: purl.
- Row 25: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
- Row 26: purl.
- Row 27: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
- Row 28: purl.
- Row 29: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
- Row 30: purl.
- Row 31: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
BO. Make a second ear the same way. Seam each ear along the side edges, leaving the base open. Stuff only the lower half very lightly so the ears remain flat and droop naturally.
Attach the ears low on the head, one on each side, beginning slightly above the eye line and angled downward. They should disappear partly under the beret and fall straight along the cheeks, just like the image.
Neck and Upper Chest Insert
To create the pale triangular knit visible above the dress and below the face, make a tiny front chest insert.
Using beige yarn, CO 10 sts.
- Rows 1–8: Work in st st.
- Row 9: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
- Row 10: purl.
- Row 11: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
- Row 12: purl.
- Row 13: ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
BO. Set aside and sew later to the upper body front so it peeks above the dress neckline.
Body
The body is a simple seated pear shape, kept modest because much of it is covered by the dress and cape.
Using beige yarn, CO 30 sts.
- Rows 1–6: Work in st st.
- Row 7: k3, kfb, k10, kfb, k2, kfb, k10, kfb, k3. 34 sts.
- Rows 8–18: Work in st st.
- Row 19: k3, kfb, k12, kfb, k2, kfb, k12, kfb, k3. 38 sts.
- Rows 20–28: Work in st st.
- Row 29: k3, ssk, k12, k2tog, k2, ssk, k12, k2tog, k3. 34 sts.
- Rows 30–34: Work in st st.
- Row 35: k3, ssk, k10, k2tog, k2, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3. 30 sts.
- Rows 36–40: Work in st st.
BO. Seam side edges, stuff firmly at the lower belly and more lightly at the upper torso. Flatten the base slightly so the bunny sits upright. Attach the head to the body with a strong ladder stitch, making sure the face points slightly downward for the calm seated pose.
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Arms Make 2
Using beige yarn, CO 10 sts.
- Rows 1–14: Work in st st.
- Row 15: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
- Rows 16–18: Work in st st.
- Row 19: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
- Rows 20–24: Work in st st.
BO. Seam each arm, stuff lightly, and flatten the upper opening. Attach low on the body sides so the hands rest near the skirt edge. In the image, the arms are slim, straight, and not heavily bent.
Legs Make 2
Using beige yarn, CO 12 sts.
- Rows 1–18: Work in st st.
- Row 19: k1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
- Rows 20–24: Work in st st.
BO. Seam each leg. Stuff firmly at the foot end and lightly through the upper leg. Attach the legs to the front lower body so they project forward in a seated position and remain parallel, with just a small gap between them.
Dress Bodice and Skirt
The dress appears as a cream base with a simple upper edge hidden beneath the cape and a gently flared skirt. The floral work sits in a wide border around the lower half. Keep the silhouette smooth rather than ruffled.
Bodice
Using cream yarn, CO 28 sts.
- Rows 1–6: Work 1×1 rib.
- Rows 7–12: Work in st st.
- Row 13: k2, kfb across row to last 2 sts, k2. 40 sts.
- Rows 14–16: Work in st st.
- Row 17: Increase 8 sts evenly across. 48 sts.
- Rows 18–20: Work in st st.
- Row 21: Increase 8 sts evenly across. 56 sts.
- Rows 22–34: Work in st st.
- Rows 35–38: Work garter stitch.
BO knitwise. Seam into a tube, leaving a small back opening at the upper bodice if needed for dressing. Fit onto the bunny and tack in place at shoulders and sides.
Skirt Floral Border
The flower motifs should be placed evenly around the front and sides. In the image, there are upright pink blossoms with olive stems and yellow centers. Work them using duplicate stitch over the knitted skirt after assembly.
- Stem: vertical olive stem about 7 rows tall
- Leaves: paired side leaves in medium green, each 2 to 3 stitches wide
- Blossom base: pink cup shape spreading horizontally
- Upper petals: deeper rose-pink arcs above the cup
- Center tips: small yellow knots or short straight stitches
Place 4 visible blossoms across the front, spacing them evenly. Allow partial blossoms to continue onto the sides so the dress looks fully patterned, not decorated only in the center.
Shoes Make 2
The shoes are rounded slippers in green with a tiny bow-like knot near the top edge. They fit over the knitted feet rather than being separate hard-structured boots.
Using green yarn, CO 14 sts.
- Rows 1–4: Work 1×1 rib.
- Rows 5–10: Work in st st.
- Row 11: k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5. 12 sts.
- Rows 12–14: Work in st st.
- Row 15: k4, k2tog, ssk, k4. 10 sts.
- Rows 16–18: Work in st st.
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BO. Seam the back and sole edges to form a neat slipper. Add a tiny i-cord bow or twisted cord loop at the outer top edge of each shoe. Slide onto the feet and tack invisibly in place.
Wrap Cape
This is the defining garment. It is short, wide, and shoulder-covering, with a front overlap. The upper edge sits close to the neck, while the lower edge spreads like a semicircle. The raglan-like lines in the image can be imitated through directional shaping and textured panels.
Using green yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 72 sts.
- Rows 1–4: Work garter stitch.
- Row 5 setup: k8, place marker, work 12-st left leaf panel, place marker, k12, place marker, work 12-st right leaf panel, place marker, k28.
Leaf panel suggestion over 12 stitches: p2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p2, mb, p2. On alternate right-side rows, shift the paired decreases and yarn overs slightly inward to create climbing vines. Space bobbles every 6 rows.
Continue for 20 rows total, increasing 1 stitch at each outer edge every 4th row 4 times. This produces the gentle shoulder spread seen in the image.
After the texture section, work 6 rows even, maintaining the leafy panels and bobbles. Then begin lower shaping:
- Next right-side row: k to 2 sts before each marker, kfb, k1, slip marker, work panel, slip marker, k1, kfb. Repeat at second panel. Increase 4 sts total.
- Work 3 rows even.
- Repeat the shaping increase row 3 more times.
Work 4 rows garter stitch and BO loosely. Block gently so the lower edge curves smoothly. Wrap the right front over the left front on the bunny to mimic the image and stitch in place near the waist.
If you want the cape to sit even closer to the image, add a hidden snap under the overlap and then tack the top edges to the dress shoulders. This keeps the cape flat and prevents it from riding upward.
Beret
The beret is soft cream, lightly slouched, with a ribbed brim and a small top nub. It sits low enough to partly cover the ear bases.
Using cream yarn, CO 48 sts. Join if working in the round, or work flat and seam later.
- Rows 1–8: Work 2×2 rib.
- Row 9: Increase evenly to 64 sts.
- Rows 10–20: Work in st st.
- Row 21: k6, k2tog around. 56 sts.
- Row 22: purl or knit plain if working in round.
- Row 23: k5, k2tog around. 48 sts.
- Row 24: plain.
- Row 25: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
- Row 26: plain.
- Row 27: k3, k2tog around. 32 sts.
- Row 28: plain.
- Row 29: k2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
- Row 30: plain.
- Row 31: k1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
- Row 32: plain.
Break yarn, draw through remaining stitches, and pull tight. Make a tiny 4-stitch i-cord nub about 0.5 inch long and sew to the top center. Fit the beret slightly forward on the head.
Envelope Purse
Using cream yarn, CO 14 sts.
- Rows 1–16: Work in garter stitch.
- Rows 17–22: Continue garter on first 10 sts only to form flap extension.
BO. Fold lower section into an envelope purse, overlapping side corners neatly toward the center. Sew side seams. Fold the flap down into a triangle and sew a tiny button at the point. Add a narrow twisted cord strap if desired.
Bee Companion
This tiny bee is a separate plush with a rounded body, cream bonnet-like top, berry wings, black antennae, and a soft cream skirt dotted with pink stitches. It should look handcrafted and slightly whimsical rather than anatomically exact.
Bee Body
Using yellow yarn, CO 12 sts.
- Rows 1–4: Work in st st.
- Row 5: Increase evenly to 16 sts.
- Rows 6–10: Work 2 rows yellow, 2 rows black, 1 row yellow.
- Row 11: Decrease evenly to 12 sts.
- Rows 12–14: Work in st st.
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BO. Seam and stuff firmly. Add tiny black eyes and a stitched smile. Make two black knitted tabs or felt arms and two black lower tabs for feet.
Bee Bonnet and Wings
For bonnet, CO 14 sts in cream. Work 4 rows garter, then decrease to 8 sts over 4 rows. Sew into a cap and place on the head. Add a berry stripe near the brim with duplicate stitch.
For wings, make 2 in berry pink. CO 6 sts. Increase to 10 sts over 3 rows, work 2 rows even, then decrease back to 4 sts. BO. Sew to back. Add two black antennae as short i-cords or wrapped cords.
Bee Skirt
CO 20 sts in cream. Work 3 rows st st, 2 rows garter, BO. Gather slightly along the top edge and sew around the lower bee body. Add tiny pink seed stitches along the hemline to echo the image.
Honey Bottle Prop
Using amber yarn, CO 10 sts.
- Rows 1–8: Work in st st.
- Row 9: k2tog across. 5 sts.
- Rows 10–12: Work i-cord for neck.
BO. Seam into a tiny bottle shape and stuff very firmly. Wrap a narrow tan strip at the top for the cork. Add a small cream knitted label and embroider HONEY in tiny backstitch if desired.
Flower Bundle
Make 5 to 7 tiny blossoms. For each flower, CO 3 sts in pale pink or cream. Work i-cord for 1 inch, then on the last stitch create 3 tiny loop petals using sewn loops. Add a green stem cord and a small leaf knot. Bundle the stems together and tie with cream yarn.
Include a few mauve-toned blossoms and a few pale green leafy sprigs so the bouquet looks mixed and softly wild, matching the image’s cottage-garden feel.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
- Sew head to body first, then ears, then arms and legs.
- Attach the chest insert before fixing the dress in place.
- Dress the bunny, then stitch the cape overlap so it stays neat.
- Place the beret low and slightly forward.
- Check the eyes, nose, and mouth again before tying off all facial threads.
Care Notes
- Spot clean whenever possible.
- Handle the bee, purse, bouquet, and honey bottle gently because they are small decorative pieces.
- Store the set away from direct sunlight to protect the soft cream and green shades.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Both ears hang evenly.
- The face is centered and softly sculpted.
- The cape overlap lies flat.
- The floral border is balanced across the dress.
- Shoes match in angle and height.
- All props are scaled neatly to the bunny.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Use cool water, mild wool wash, and very light pressure if cleaning is needed. Do not twist or wring the knitted pieces. Press between towels, reshape carefully, and dry flat.
For long-term storage, wrap the set in acid-free tissue and keep it in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags, damp areas, and strong fragrances. Add support tissue inside the cape and beret so the silhouette stays lovely over time.


