Platycodon Balloon-Bow Bunny – Knitting.

This knitted bunny set is designed as a collectible heirloom stuffed animal with a softly dressed country-garden look. The finished project includes the bunny, bonnet, dress, cardigan, shoes, flower cluster, bow bag, small raccoon friend, red balloon, blue yarn ball, and little lace mat. It suits makers searching for a handmade bunny doll pattern, knitted nursery decor, giftable soft toy, or a boutique plush animal with detailed styling and charming accessories.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design creates a standing bunny with a large rounded head, long upright ears, a slim neck, gently tapered arms, short shaped legs, and a softly weighted lower body. The outfit is essential to the silhouette. The bonnet frames the face closely, the cardigan stops at the waist, and the dress forms the widest point.

The skirt has horizontal color shifts in blue, lavender, and cream, with layered star motifs placed across the front. The sleeves are puffed and textured with raised bobble clusters. The shoes are small, rounded, and tied with tiny cords. The overall look is sweet, polished, and slightly vintage.

The companion pieces matter to the full scene. The blue handbag has a front bow, the flower cluster sits flat with layered petals and leaves, the raccoon wears a miniature version of the bunny outfit, and the balloon accessories add playful balance. Every visible detail is included below.

Finished Measurements

• Main bunny: about 11 inches tall from feet to top of head, or about 13 inches including ears.
• Head width: about 3 1/2 inches at the widest point.
• Body width under cardigan: about 3 inches.
• Dress width at hem: about 5 1/2 inches laid flat around the outer skirt curve.
• Raccoon friend: about 4 1/2 inches tall seated or 5 inches standing.
• Bag: about 2 inches wide.
• Flower cluster: about 3 inches across.
• Red balloon: about 1 1/2 inches tall.
• Blue yarn ball: about 1 1/4 inches across.
• Cream mat: about 2 1/2 inches square.

Materials

• Light fingering or fine sport yarn for the bunny and all clothing details.
• Main bunny color: warm oatmeal-beige.
• Bonnet and trims: soft cream.
• Cardigan and shoes: mossy olive green.
• Dress shades: dusty denim blue, pale sky blue, lavender, muted periwinkle, and cream.
• Sleeve bobbles: mixed lavender, pale blue, dusty pink-lilac, and cream.
• Raccoon colors: rust brown, charcoal, cream, black, denim blue, olive green, lavender, and cream.
• Bag: medium denim blue.
• Flowers: blue-violet, lavender, pale lilac, yellow-cream for centers, and leafy green.
• Balloon: muted brick red and one tiny amount of matching darker red for tie detail.
• Yarn ball: soft medium blue.
• Mat: cream.
• Pair of 2.25 mm straight or double-pointed needles.
• Pair of 2.75 mm needles for slightly softer outer garments if desired.
• Tapestry needle.
• Locking stitch markers.
• Small amount of toy stuffing.
• Fine black thread or tiny black safety eyes for facial features.
• Optional florist wire for the balloon string only if a posed display is wanted.

Gauge

Gauge is important because the toy must hold its shape. On 2.25 mm needles in stockinette stitch, work at about 9 stitches and 12 rows per inch after light blocking. Slightly firmer fabric is better than loose fabric. You do not want stuffing to show through.

The garments can be worked on the same needles for a neat, dense miniature look. If your knitting is naturally tight, move up one needle size only for the cardigan and skirt so the fabric drapes without looking stiff. Keep the body fabric firm and stable.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• dec = decrease 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• yo = yarn over
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• bobble = work k, p, k into one st, turn, p3, turn, k3, turn, p3, turn, k3tog
• i-cord = knit narrow tube over 2 or 3 stitches

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Construction Notes

The bunny is made in separate pieces and assembled firmly. The head is shaped first and should be stuffed smoothly, with no flat planes. The body is slightly cone-shaped so the dress sits correctly. Legs are short and rounded. Arms are narrow at the wrist and fuller near the shoulder.

The face is minimal. Small black eyes sit wide apart, slightly above the horizontal center of the face. The nose is a tiny inverted Y style made with dark brown or black embroidery. Keep the mouth short. A large mouth or heavy nose line will change the gentle expression.

The dress is the visual centerpiece. The bodice is blue with a centered cream star lattice. The skirt widens gradually and carries soft horizontal striping. Separate applied stars are stitched over the skirt front in two rows, with a cream band near the upper skirt and blue-purple stars near the hem.

The cardigan is cropped and open at the front with textured vertical panels. It does not overlap deeply. The bonnet has a softly scalloped face edge and ties in a cream cord bow under the chin. The ears pass above the bonnet line rather than through it.

Main Bunny Legs

1. Using oatmeal-beige, CO 10 sts for one foot.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Next row: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Work 6 rows stockinette.
6. Shape foot: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
7. Purl 1 row.
8. Repeat the shaping row once more. 8 sts.
9. Work 6 rows even for ankle and lower leg.
10. Stuff the foot lightly only, keeping the upper leg mostly soft.
11. Break yarn and place sts on hold.
12. Make second leg the same.

The feet should be short and oval, not long. Gently pinch the front seam so each foot looks rounded and slightly upward at the toe. Keep both legs equal. The bunny in the image stands with feet close together and only a tiny visible leg length below the skirt.

Main Bunny Body

1. Place both legs on one needle: k across first leg, CO 4 center sts, k across second leg. 20 sts.
2. Begin working in stockinette, starting with a WS purl row.
3. Increase for body on next RS row: k1, inc, knit to last stitch before center gap, inc, k2 center, inc, knit to last stitch, inc, k1. 24 sts.
4. Work 3 rows even.
5. Next RS row: k2, inc, knit to last 2 sts, inc, k2. 26 sts.
6. Work 5 rows even.
7. Next RS row: k2, inc, knit to last 2 sts, inc, k2. 28 sts.
8. Work 7 rows even.
9. Stuff firmly through the lower opening, concentrating filling at the seat and lower tummy.
10. Shape upper body: k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 26 sts.
11. Purl 1 row.
12. Repeat decrease row every other row 4 times more. 18 sts.
13. Work 4 rows even for upper torso.
14. Break yarn and place sts on holder.

The body should be widest low down and narrower at the chest. This keeps the dress from looking barrel-shaped. Before closing the back seam, test the cardigan width around the chest area. Adjust stuffing until the torso looks trim and upright under the cropped sweater.

Main Bunny Head

1. Using oatmeal-beige, CO 14 sts.
2. Work in stockinette for 2 rows.
3. Increase row: k1, inc, knit to last stitch, inc, k1. 16 sts.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Repeat increase row every other row 6 times. 28 sts.
6. Work 16 rows even.
7. Begin shaping top: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 26 sts.
8. Purl 1 row.
9. Repeat decrease row every other row 6 times. 14 sts.
10. Stuff head very firmly and smoothly.
11. Thread yarn through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.
12. Back seam the head neatly, easing the fabric so the face remains rounded.

Once stuffed, the head should be almost spherical with a slight lower fullness at the cheeks. Roll the stuffing gently between your fingers to soften lumps. The face in the image is broad and calm. Avoid a narrow or pointed chin. The lower head should rest naturally on the neck without wobbling.

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Main Bunny Ears

1. For one ear, CO 8 sts in oatmeal-beige.
2. Work 2 rows stockinette.
3. Increase row: k1, inc, knit to last stitch, inc, k1. 10 sts.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Work 10 rows even.
6. Shape tip: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
7. Purl 1 row.
8. Repeat decrease row every other row twice. 4 sts.
9. Knit 1 WS row to keep fabric flexible, then thread yarn through sts and pull closed.
10. Make second ear the same.

Flatten each ear lightly and seam the lower edge closed with only a hint of base cupping. The ears in the image are slim, upright, and close together, not floppy. Sew them near the crown with a slight inward angle so they frame the bonnet edge neatly.

Main Bunny Arms

1. Using oatmeal-beige, CO 8 sts.
2. Work 4 rows stockinette.
3. Increase row: k1, inc, knit to last stitch, inc, k1. 10 sts.
4. Work 8 rows even.
5. Increase row: k1, inc, knit to last stitch, inc, k1. 12 sts.
6. Work 6 rows even.
7. Shape cap: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 8 sts.
8. Work 2 rows even.
9. Break yarn, gather top edge slightly, and seam.
10. Stuff hand and lower forearm lightly only.
11. Make second arm the same.

The wrists stay slim because the puff sleeves sit over the upper arm. Do not overstuff the arm or it will fight the sleeve shape. Angle the arms slightly forward when sewing. The hands should rest at the skirt sides, visible beneath the large textured sleeves.

Head and Body Joining

Sew the head to the body using strong matching yarn. Add extra stuffing into the neck area before the final stitches if needed. The head should sit centered, with a slight forward tilt that gives a gentle character. Check the silhouette from the front and side before locking the seam.

Facial Placement

• Place eyes 9 to 10 rows down from the crown seam.
• Space the eyes about 9 stitches apart.
• Use small black knots, tiny satin stitches, or very small safety eyes.
• Embroider the nose 3 rows below eye line.
• Keep the nose narrow and softly triangular.
• Add a short split stitch downward, then two short angled mouth stitches.

The expression should be delicate. Less is better. If you embroider brows, make them extremely faint or skip them. The image shows a clean face with only eyes and a tiny mouth-nose line. A simple face allows the bonnet and dress to remain the focus.

Bonnet

1. Using cream, CO 48 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Eyelet row for scalloped edge base: k2, yo, k2tog across.
4. Work 3 rows garter.
5. Begin bonnet body in stockinette for 10 rows.
6. Shape back of bonnet by short rows or by decreasing 1 st at each end every RS row 6 times. 36 sts.
7. Work 4 rows even.
8. Thread yarn through live sts and draw up to form the back curve.
9. Seam back edge.

For the picot-like face frill, pick up stitches evenly around the face opening. Work 2 rows garter, then on the next row repeat: k2tog, yo, k1. Work 1 more row knit. Bind off loosely. The edge should ripple softly without becoming heavily flounced.

Make two narrow cream i-cords about 5 inches long each. Sew one to each front lower bonnet edge and tie into a small bow below the chin. The ties are thin and tidy in the image, not thick ribbons. Keep the knot small and the loops even.

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Dress Bodice

1. Using dusty blue, CO 28 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in k1, p1 rib.
3. Change to stockinette and work 6 rows.
4. On center front, mark 8 sts for decorative lattice panel.
5. Continue 8 rows, working side sections in stockinette and the center panel in a mock cable-lace arrangement.

For the front lattice panel, create a star-like structure with crossing lines. A simple miniature method is enough. Work paired decreases and yarn overs around a centered vertical spine over the marked front panel. On alternate rows, twist narrow crossed stitches toward the center so the panel forms a delicate angular star.

The panel does not need deep relief. It should sit flat and look like a stitched geometric star window. This feature is visible on the upper dress between the cardigan fronts, so keep it centered and crisp. Once complete, lightly steam the bodice from the wrong side only.

Puff Sleeves

1. Using medium blue, CO 18 sts for one sleeve cuff.
2. Work 3 rows in k1, p1 rib.
3. Increase across next RS row to 28 sts.
4. Work 2 rows stockinette.
5. Begin bobble distribution.

For the textured sleeve look, place bobbles in scattered but balanced positions. Use pale blue, lavender, dusty pink-lilac, and cream as separate bobbles worked into the fabric. On the first bobble row, place 5 bobbles across. On the next bobble row, offset them. Work 8 total rows of sleeve depth.

The sleeve should become round and cloud-like. Do not place bobbles too close to the cuff. The fullest area sits in the middle and upper sleeve. Finish by decreasing back to 18 sts, then work 2 rows plain. Gather the top and lower edges slightly so the sleeve can be sewn onto the bodice and around the arm.

Make the second sleeve the same, matching color placement loosely rather than exactly. The image shows an organic mix, not mirrored symmetry. The overall tone should stay cool and soft, with cream bobbles brightening the sleeve surface.

Dress Skirt

1. With the bodice completed, pick up or continue from lower bodice edge.
2. Increase evenly from 28 sts to 52 sts across the first skirt row.
3. Work the skirt in stockinette with gentle color striping.
4. Suggested stripe sequence: 4 rows medium blue, 3 rows pale blue, 3 rows lavender, 2 rows cream, 4 rows blue-lavender marl, 3 rows medium blue, 3 rows pale lavender-blue, 2 rows cream, 4 rows deeper blue-lilac mix.
5. Increase 4 sts every 6th row three times to widen the lower skirt. Final count about 64 sts.
6. Work until skirt reaches just above ankle length on the bunny.
7. Finish with 2 rows cream garter and a softly picoted or slightly scalloped bind-off in cream.

The skirt in the image is softly full, not stiffly gathered. Keep shaping subtle. The color bands should look painterly and horizontal. If using solid yarns, alternate single-row shifts between blue and lavender shades to mimic the blurred tonal effect shown in the image.

Applied Star Motifs for the Dress

The front of the skirt carries multiple layered stars. These can be made as tiny separate motifs in fine yarn and stitched on after blocking. Work them in two sizes. Use cream for upper stars and blue, lavender, and dusty periwinkle for lower stars.

Small Five-Point Star

1. CO 15 sts.
2. Work 1 WS row purl.
3. On RS row, shape narrow points by repeating small centered decreases and tiny yarn over openings.
4. After 4 rows total, bind off loosely.
5. Pull the piece into a star by stitching the valleys inward from the back.

Embroidery-Style Star Alternative

• Use duplicate stitch over the knitted surface.
• Form a pentagram-like outline first.
• Add short anchoring stitches at each point.
• Steam gently after securing.

Arrange one cream star centered high on the skirt, with smaller cream stars near it. Add three larger blue-lavender stars along the lower front hem area. Let one star overlap another slightly. This layered placement is important because it gives the skirt its storybook depth.

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Cardigan

1. Using olive green, CO 34 sts.
2. Work 3 rows in garter stitch.
3. Set front bands as 4 garter sts at each edge throughout.
4. On the remaining stitches, work a simple vertical texture such as k2, p2 columns with occasional 2-stitch cables every 6th row.
5. Work 12 rows.
6. Separate for fronts and back: 8 sts front, 18 sts back, 8 sts front.
7. Work each side to armhole depth of about 6 rows.
8. Shape shallow neckline on each front by decreasing 1 st at inner edge every other row twice.
9. Join shoulders with back after working back straight to same height.
10. Pick up small sleeve caps or simply seam cardigan over the dress shoulders as a sleeveless cropped layer with the puff sleeves already attached beneath.

The cardigan in the image reads like a little open-front jacket. It ends above the main skirt fullness. The front edges hang straight down with slight texture. It should not close at the center front. Keep the opening wide enough so the bodice star panel remains clearly visible.

Shoes

1. Using olive green, CO 10 sts.
2. Work 2 rows garter.
3. Work 4 rows stockinette.
4. Decrease at each side on next RS row. 8 sts.
5. Work 2 rows even.
6. Thread yarn through remaining sts and seam into a tiny slipper.

For the tied look, make a 2-stitch olive i-cord about 3 inches long for each shoe. Thread through the upper edge and tie a tiny side knot or mini bow. The shoes should appear rounded and slightly puffy, sitting snugly over the bunny feet without covering the full ankle.

Blue Bow Handbag

1. Using denim blue, CO 16 sts.
2. Work 14 rows stockinette.
3. Fold in half and seam sides to form a small pouch.
4. For base shaping, run a gathering thread through the lower corners and tighten slightly.
5. Make a 3-stitch i-cord handle about 5 inches long and sew to upper sides.

For the front bow, make a small rectangle: CO 10 sts and work 6 rows in stockinette. Bind off. Pinch center and wrap with matching yarn. Sew to front of bag. The finished bag should look soft and slightly rounded, standing upright beside the flower cluster.

Flower Cluster

The flowers are flat, layered, and platycodon-inspired. Make three main blooms in different cool shades. Each flower has pointed petals and a tiny pale center. Add separate green leaves underneath so the cluster spreads outward across the table surface.

Flower Petals

1. For one bloom, CO 3 sts in blue-violet, lavender, or lilac.
2. Row 1: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
3. Row 2: purl.
4. Row 3: k1, kfb, k1, kfb, k1. 7 sts.
5. Row 4: purl.
6. Row 5: ssk, k3, k2tog. 5 sts.
7. Row 6: purl.
8. Row 7: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
9. Row 8: purl.
10. Bind off.

Make 5 petals for each flower and join around a tiny cream center. Embroider a few pale stamens with straight stitches. For leaves, knit simple pointed leaves in green, beginning with 2 stitches, increasing to 8, then decreasing back to 2. Make at least 5 leaves total.

Layer the leaves first, then attach the flowers in an overlapping arrangement. The cluster should sit low and broad, not tall. One flower may face forward, one angle slightly left, and one slightly right, echoing the natural placement in the scene.

Raccoon Friend

The raccoon is a small companion toy with a rounded head, pointed ears, rust-brown face, cream muzzle markings, black lower legs, ringed tail, blue cardigan, cream bonnet, and a tiny blue-lavender dress. It should feel like a miniature echo of the bunny’s outfit rather than a separate style.

Raccoon Head and Body

1. Use rust brown for most of the head, with cream inserted for muzzle patches.
2. Work the head as a small rounded tube similar to the bunny head, starting with 12 sts and expanding to 20 sts.
3. Embroider small black eyes and nose.
4. Use black for hands and feet, and darker accents around the eye area if desired.
5. Body begins with 14 sts and widens to 20 sts for a squat shape.

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Raccoon Tail

1. CO 8 sts in rust brown.
2. Work 3 rows.
3. Change to black for 2 rows.
4. Repeat striping with rust and black to create rings.
5. Decrease gradually near tip and stuff lightly.

Sew the tail to the lower back, angled slightly to the side so the colored rings remain visible from the front. Keep the companion proportion small enough to sit near the bunny’s hem without stealing focus. The outfit colors should clearly connect the two characters.

Raccoon Clothing

• Bonnet: cream, with tiny scalloped edge and tied cord.
• Cardigan: dusty blue, cropped, open front.
• Dress: miniature blue-lavender striped skirt with tiny floral or star suggestion near the hem.

You do not need the raccoon garments to be fully removable. For this scale, attached garments are neater and hold the exact silhouette. Focus on the visible front details: cream bonnet framing the face, tiny bow under the chin, and a short little jacket over the dress.

Red Balloon

1. Using muted brick red, CO 6 sts.
2. Increase to 12 sts over several rounds or short rows if working flat.
3. Work 6 rows even.
4. Decrease back to 6 sts.
5. Stuff very lightly.
6. Gather closed and add a tiny wrapped knot at the base.

Add a narrow red or dark thread string. The balloon in the image is tiny and plump, like a toy accessory rather than a real helium balloon. Keep the finish matte and soft. Do not overstuff, or it will look like a ball instead of a balloon.

Blue Yarn Ball

1. Using soft medium blue, CO 6 sts.
2. Increase to 12 sts.
3. Work 4 rows even.
4. Decrease back to 6 sts.
5. Stuff lightly and close.

Wrap a strand of the same yarn around the small stuffed core several times in different directions. Leave a short tail trailing away from the ball. This detail makes it read instantly as a wound yarn ball instead of a plain blue sphere.

Cream Mat

1. Using cream, CO 18 sts.
2. Work 16 rows in garter stitch or seed stitch.
3. On final row, create gentle picot corners by adding tiny yarn-over bumps near each edge if desired.
4. Bind off loosely.

The mat should lie flat with a lightly decorative edge, almost like a tiny handkerchief or lace cloth. It sits under the blue yarn ball and adds a soft cream accent near the front of the display. Steam flat after finishing.

Color Placement Guide

• Bunny head, ears, arms, and legs: warm oatmeal-beige.
• Bonnet and dress edging: cream.
• Cardigan and shoes: olive green.
• Dress bodice: dusty blue with cream center motif.
• Dress skirt: layered blue, lavender, and cream stripes.
• Sleeves: cool blue base with mixed pastel bobbles.
• Bag: denim blue with same-color bow.
• Flowers: lavender, blue-violet, lilac, green, and pale cream.

Blocking and Shaping

Do not wet-block the stuffed toy parts. Instead, shape them gently with your hands after stuffing. Garments and flat accessories may be lightly steamed from a distance over a towel. Keep the bonnet frill airy. Pressing too hard will flatten the pretty edge around the face.

The star appliqués should be shaped before sewing. Pin them into place and steam very lightly so their points hold. The cardigan fronts may also be steamed open so they hang straight and do not curl inward over the bodice panel.

Order of Assembly

1. Knit and seam legs.
2. Join legs and make body.
3. Knit and stuff head.
4. Knit ears and arms.
5. Sew head to body.
6. Add facial details.
7. Sew ears and arms.
8. Make dress, sleeves, and cardigan.
9. Dress the bunny and secure garments.
10. Add bonnet and ties.
11. Make shoes and sew in place.
12. Finish the small accessories and raccoon friend.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

Keep the bunny centered and upright. The bonnet should sit low enough to frame the forehead but high enough to leave the ears visible. The cardigan hem should stop above the widest part of the skirt. The sleeves must look puffy and textured, not smooth and fitted.

The skirt stars are essential. Without them, the dress will lose much of its identity. Use at least five visible stars across the front. Let the cream motifs sit slightly higher and the blue-lavender ones lower. This creates the layered visual rhythm seen in the image.

The accessory arrangement also matters. Place the handbag and flowers on one side, the raccoon on the other, and the yarn ball on the cream mat near the front. The balloon can sit just behind the raccoon. These details complete the storybook garden-table mood.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew every seam firmly and hide yarn tails inside the toy. Check that the head is centered, the ears match in height, and the arms angle slightly forward. Place the eyes evenly before adding the nose. Keep the nose tiny and the mouth short for a gentle, sweet expression.

Secure the dress, cardigan, bonnet ties, and shoes with a few hidden stitches if the set is meant for display. Stitch the star appliqués carefully so the points stay crisp. Attach the raccoon outfit neatly and finish the accessories only after the main bunny silhouette looks correct.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from strong direct sunlight.
• Spot clean with a barely damp cloth.
• Do not machine wash the stuffed figures.
• Store flat accessories in a dry box when not displayed.
• Reshape bonnet frill and sleeves gently by hand after handling.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes placed evenly and expression soft.
• Bonnet tied in a small centered bow.
• Cardigan open enough to show bodice motif.
• Skirt stripes balanced and stars securely attached.
• Shoes matched in size and tied neatly.
• Bag, flowers, raccoon, balloon, yarn ball, and mat completed.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft dry brush to remove dust from the toy and accessories. For minor marks, dab gently with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap, then blot with a towel. Never soak the stuffed pieces. Let cleaned parts dry naturally in their correct shape.

For long-term preservation, wrap the set in acid-free tissue and store it in a breathable container. Avoid plastic bags for long periods, especially in humid rooms. Moths and moisture are harder on fine yarn than everyday handling, so clean and store the set carefully.