Petunia Porch-Bow Bunny – Knitting

Petunia Porch-Bow Bunny – Knitting

This sweet knitted bunny is designed as an heirloom-style soft toy with a romantic spring look, making it perfect for nursery decor, a handmade gift, collectible rabbit doll displays, Easter shelf styling, and artisan toy lovers who search for premium knitted animals, bow bonnet bunnies, floral dress dolls, and handmade keepsake toys. The finished set includes the main bunny, her flowered dress, bonnet, shoes, basket, folded floral cloth, and a tiny woodland friend dressed to match. Every detail works together to create a charming display piece that feels polished, giftable, and beautifully handmade.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

  • Main bunny yarn: light beige or warm cream DK weight yarn for head, body, arms, legs, ears, and neck.
  • Dress yarn: soft dusty lilac or petunia pink DK weight yarn.
  • Bonnet and shoes yarn: pale oatmeal, sand, or warm beige DK weight yarn.
  • Flower colors: dark plum, orchid, violet, lavender, rose pink, blush pink, and mauve.
  • Leaf color: soft moss or muted leaf green.
  • Basket colors: medium brown for basket body and darker brown for handle.
  • Tiny woodland friend: chestnut brown, cream, dusty lilac, pale beige, and tiny scraps of pink and green.
  • Needles: a size suitable for tight fabric in the round, usually 2.5 mm to 3.0 mm for DK yarn.
  • Double-pointed needles or magic loop setup.
  • Tapestry needle for seaming and embroidery.
  • Small black safety eyes or black embroidery thread for eyes.
  • Toy stuffing.
  • Fine floral wire, optional if you want the basket handle to hold a firmer curve.
  • Stitch markers, scissors, pins, and row counter.

Finished Size

The main bunny is designed to sit tall with long legs hanging downward, just like the sample in the image. Using DK yarn and small needles, the finished bunny measures about 13 to 15 inches tall from the top of the head to the bottom of the shoes.

The ears extend lower beneath the bonnet brim and visually lengthen the silhouette. The tiny woodland friend measures about 4 to 5 inches tall. The basket is proportioned to sit in one paw, and the folded floral cloth rests beside it as a decorative accent.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

The fabric should be smooth, firm, and evenly packed so the toy holds its shape cleanly. Aim for a dense stockinette that does not show stuffing through the stitches. If your knitting looks open, move down a needle size before you begin.

The bunny in the image has very neat stitch definition. That means a balanced, even tension matters more than hitting an exact sweater-style gauge. Consistency is the goal. The face, limbs, and bonnet especially look best when the surface is tidy and compact.

  • Main fabric: firm stockinette worked in the round.
  • Dress hem and bonnet edge: soft rolled or lightly shaped edge rather than a stiff border.
  • Puffed sleeves: gentle fullness, not oversized.
  • Flowers: flat layered blossoms worked separately and sewn on.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • K = knit
  • P = purl
  • Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
  • K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
  • Ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • St st = stockinette stitch
  • Rep = repeat
  • Rnd = round
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side

Construction Overview

This design is made in several separate pieces so you can control the exact proportions shown in the image. The main bunny has a large rounded head, long narrow torso, slim arms, long softly weighted legs, and long ears that fall down beneath the bonnet.

The dress is worked separately and slipped onto the bunny before final finishing. The bonnet is also separate and tied into place by stitching discreetly under the chin or at the back of the head. Shoes are made separately and attached to the feet.

The floral decoration is a major visual feature of this design. Two vertical sprays of blossoms are placed on the front of the dress, beginning near the upper bodice and flowing to the lower skirt. The arrangement should feel balanced but not too symmetrical.

Main Bunny Legs

Knit two legs in warm cream. The legs in the image are long, straight, and lightly stuffed, with a soft natural taper from thigh to ankle. They are not chunky. They should look elegant and slightly dangling when attached.

  1. CO 16 sts and join for working in the round.
  2. K 6 rnds.
  3. Increase to 20 sts evenly across the next rnd.
  4. K 24 rnds for the lower leg.
  5. Increase 4 sts evenly across the next rnd. You now have 24 sts.
  6. K 18 rnds.
  7. Increase 4 sts evenly across the next rnd. You now have 28 sts.
  8. K 12 rnds for upper leg.

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Stuff the leg gradually as you work. Keep the ankle and lower calf firm enough to stay smooth, but do not overstuff. The leg should remain flexible. The upper leg should be slightly fuller so it joins the body cleanly without collapsing.

Place the finished legs aside. Do not bind off if you want to join them directly into the body. If you prefer separate assembly, bind off and leave long sewing tails. The sample shape is easiest to control when the legs are joined into the body.

Main Bunny Body

The body is narrow through the waist and softly rounded at the hip and chest. It is not barrel-shaped. The image shows a gentle, tidy doll-like torso that supports the dress without making the figure look bulky.

  1. Place both legs on the needles with inner-leg stitches facing each other.
  2. K across first leg, CO 4 sts for the crotch bridge, K across second leg, CO 4 sts for the back bridge. You now have 64 sts.
  3. Work 8 rnds even.
  4. Decrease 4 sts evenly on next rnd. Work 6 rnds even.
  5. Decrease 4 sts evenly on next rnd. Work 6 rnds even.
  6. Decrease 4 sts evenly on next rnd. Work 8 rnds even. You now have 52 sts.

This section forms the lower torso and waist. Add stuffing as you go, pressing it into place so the body remains smooth and vertically balanced. The bunny in the image has a refined shape, so avoid an overstuffed stomach.

  1. Increase 4 sts evenly on next rnd.
  2. K 10 rnds.
  3. Increase 4 sts evenly on next rnd.
  4. K 8 rnds. You now have 60 sts.

This creates the upper body and chest. The chest must be present but subtle. It should support the square neckline of the dress while still keeping the toy slim. Check proportions before continuing. The body should look longer than it is wide.

  1. Work 4 rnds even.
  2. On next rnd, decrease 8 sts evenly to shape the neck base. You now have 52 sts.
  3. K 4 rnds.
  4. Decrease evenly to 36 sts.
  5. K 8 rnds for the neck.

The neck in the image is visible above the dress and below the bonnet. It is medium length, straight, and neatly stuffed. Do not make it too short. A slightly longer neck helps match the graceful posture seen in the sample.

Main Bunny Head

The head is the most important piece for matching the image. It is large, rounded, and softly oval rather than perfectly spherical. The face is broad through the cheeks, narrower at the chin, and very calm in expression.

  1. From the neck, increase evenly to 48 sts.
  2. K 1 rnd.
  3. Increase evenly to 60 sts.
  4. K 1 rnd.
  5. Increase evenly to 72 sts.
  6. K 20 rnds.

This creates the full central head. Stuff firmly and evenly as the shaping begins, taking care to preserve a smooth forehead and rounded cheeks. The image shows no angular corners at all, so massage the stuffing often while you work.

  1. Decrease 8 sts evenly on next rnd.
  2. K 1 rnd.
  3. Decrease 8 sts evenly on next rnd.
  4. K 1 rnd.
  5. Decrease 8 sts evenly on next rnd.
  6. K 1 rnd.
  7. Decrease 8 sts evenly on next rnd.
  8. Continue decreasing gradually until 12 sts remain.
  9. Thread yarn through remaining sts and close firmly.

Shape the head with your hands before closing completely. The finished head should be generously rounded, with the widest point around eye level and mid-cheek. The lower face should taper gently toward the stitched nose and mouth area.

Main Bunny Arms

Knit two arms in warm cream. The arms are straight, slim, and slightly tapered. They reach to about lower skirt level when attached. They are not bent sharply, though a soft curve can be added during stuffing and sewing.

  1. CO 12 sts and join in the round.
  2. K 6 rnds.
  3. Increase evenly to 16 sts.
  4. K 24 rnds.
  5. Increase 2 sts evenly.
  6. K 10 rnds.
  7. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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Stuff the lower paw area more firmly than the upper arm. The shoulder should remain slightly softer so it sits naturally against the dress sleeve. Flatten the top opening before sewing so the arm attaches in a neat downward angle.

Main Bunny Ears

The ears are long, flat, and softly drooping. They fall from under the bonnet and extend down beside the head. They are not thickly stuffed. Their soft drape is part of the design, so keep them lightly padded or leave them unstuffed.

  1. CO 10 sts.
  2. Work flat in St st, increasing 1 st at each end of every RS row 5 times. You now have 20 sts.
  3. Work 24 rows even.
  4. Decrease 1 st at each end of every RS row 5 times. You now have 10 sts.
  5. Work 6 rows even.
  6. Bind off.

Make two ears. Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly with fingers to encourage the soft inner curve seen in the photo. If desired, add the tiniest amount of stuffing only at the base, leaving the rest flat and draping.

Dress Bodice

The dress is a separate garment in dusty lilac. It has a square neckline, short puffed sleeves, a softly gathered skirt, and a front panel decorated with vertical flower vines. The fit should be roomy but tidy, not oversized or loose.

Begin at the upper bodice. The front neckline in the image is gently squared with narrow straps flowing into the shoulder line. The back can be made with a small opening for dressing, then stitched closed after the dress is placed on the bunny.

  1. CO 56 sts and work flat.
  2. Work 4 rows in St st, beginning with a WS row.
  3. Shape square neckline by working 14 sts, bind off center 28 sts, work last 14 sts.
  4. Work each side separately for 8 rows, keeping outer edges straight and shaping slight shoulder rise if desired.
  5. Rejoin with a backward loop CO of 28 sts across the back neckline. You now have 56 sts again.
  6. Work 4 rows even.

This forms a soft, neat upper yoke. The neckline should sit just below the bunny neck, leaving a visible cream neckline above the dress. That visible neck area is important for matching the sample styling and keeping the dress refined.

Dress Sleeves

The sleeves are attached to the arm openings and worked as short puff sleeves. They are rounded at the cap and gently narrowed at the cuff. The puff is sweet and soft, not dramatic.

  1. Pick up 24 sts evenly around one armhole.
  2. K 1 rnd.
  3. Increase 6 sts evenly. You now have 30 sts.
  4. K 5 rnds.
  5. Decrease 6 sts evenly.
  6. K 2 rnds.
  7. Bind off loosely.

Repeat for the second sleeve. The sleeve edge should curve slightly outward before drawing back in. If your sleeves look too full, reduce one increase round. If they look too flat, add two more stitches at the puff round.

Dress Skirt

The skirt begins under the bodice and falls in a gentle A-line shape. It does not flare dramatically. The image shows a soft drape with a slight outward ripple near the hem, helped by extra stitches and natural fabric roll.

  1. With RS facing, pick up or continue from the lower bodice edge with 72 sts.
  2. K 4 rows.
  3. Increase 12 sts evenly across the next RS row. You now have 84 sts.
  4. Work 10 rows even.
  5. Increase 12 sts evenly. You now have 96 sts.
  6. Work 12 rows even.
  7. Increase 12 sts evenly. You now have 108 sts.
  8. Work 14 rows even.
  9. Work 4 rows in garter stitch for a softly supported hem.
  10. Bind off loosely.

The finished hem should sit in a mild wave. Do not block it flat. That soft movement at the bottom edge helps recreate the lovely little swing visible in the image. The skirt length should end above the ankles, leaving the shoes fully visible.

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Floral Dress Appliqués

The front decoration is formed from many separate knitted blossoms in pink and purple tones, plus green leaves. These are arranged in two vertical trails from upper bodice to lower skirt, framing the center of the dress.

Make a generous assortment so you can audition placement before sewing. The sample includes flowers in several sizes, with larger blossoms near the upper and mid sections and smaller blossoms filling the spaces between them.

Small Flower

  1. CO 5 sts.
  2. Work an i-cord for 2 rows if you want a firm petal edge, or simply continue flat.
  3. On next row: Kfb into each st. You now have 10 sts.
  4. Work 1 row purl.
  5. *K2tog* across. You now have 5 sts.
  6. Break yarn, draw through stitches, and pull into a cupped petal circle.

Make five petals and sew them around a center point. Add a tiny French knot or a small stitched center in a pale contrasting shade. This size works well for filler blossoms and lower vine details.

Medium Flower

  1. CO 6 sts for each petal.
  2. Work 2 rows St st.
  3. Increase to 10 sts.
  4. Work 2 rows even.
  5. Decrease back to 6 sts.
  6. Bind off.

Make five petals and overlap them slightly while sewing into a flat flower. Add a center knot or tiny stitched star. These medium flowers should be the most common blossoms on the dress front.

Large Flower

  1. CO 8 sts for each petal.
  2. Work 2 rows.
  3. Increase to 12 sts.
  4. Work 2 rows.
  5. Decrease to 8 sts.
  6. Bind off.

Make five petals and sew together. Add a tiny gathered stitch at the base of each petal if you want extra contour. These larger blossoms are ideal for the upper front of the dress where they create the bold floral statement seen in the image.

Leaves

  1. CO 3 sts.
  2. Kfb, K1, Kfb. You now have 5 sts.
  3. Purl 1 row.
  4. Kfb, K3, Kfb. You now have 7 sts.
  5. Purl 1 row.
  6. Ssk, K3, K2tog.
  7. Purl 1 row.
  8. K2tog, K1, Ssk.
  9. Bind off.

Make many leaves in varied directions. Some should angle outward from the flowers, while others nest between blossoms. This helps create the organic climbing-vine look visible on the skirt front.

Bonnet

The bonnet is a signature feature of the design. It sits low on the head, frames the face with a softly rolled brim, covers the crown, and includes a large sculpted bow placed to one side on the top front area.

The bonnet color is pale beige, slightly darker than the bunny face but close enough to harmonize. The brim is rounded and smooth. It is not frilly. The bow is large, structured, and elegant rather than floppy.

  1. CO 64 sts and join in the round.
  2. K 8 rnds.
  3. P 1 rnd.
  4. K 8 rnds.

This creates a doubled rolled brim. Fold along the purl ridge and stitch the live or cast-on edge neatly to the inside if you want a clean stable brim. The finished brim should frame the face without hiding the eyes.

  1. Continue in St st for 18 rnds over all stitches.
  2. Begin crown shaping by placing markers at four equal points.
  3. Decrease 1 st before each marker every other rnd 6 times.
  4. Work 1 rnd even.
  5. Repeat decrease rnd until top fits the crown smoothly.
  6. Gather remaining sts and close.

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Test the bonnet on the bunny as you work. It should sit securely, with the ears emerging from underneath and falling down along each side. Leave enough depth so the hat looks gentle and soft, not tight and cap-like.

Bonnet Bow

  1. CO 22 sts and work flat in St st for 24 rows.
  2. Bind off.
  3. CO 8 sts and work 10 rows for the center wrap.
  4. Bind off.

Lightly gather the larger rectangle at the center and wrap the smaller strip around it. Stitch firmly at the back. Sew the finished bow to the bonnet slightly off-center toward one side, matching the charming tilted placement in the image.

Shoes

The shoes are pale beige Mary Jane style slippers with a rounded toe and a narrow instep strap. They cover the front of the foot and leave the ankle area visible. The sole is soft, and the top edge sits low and neat.

  1. CO 10 sts for sole and work flat.
  2. Increase at each end of every RS row 3 times. You now have 16 sts.
  3. Work 8 rows even.
  4. Decrease at each end of every RS row 3 times. You now have 10 sts.
  5. Bind off.

Pick up stitches around the sole and work in the round for the upper shoe.

  1. Pick up 28 sts around sole edge.
  2. K 4 rnds.
  3. On next rnd, work toe decreases over front 10 sts by repeating K2tog across the toe section.
  4. K 1 rnd.
  5. Decrease again across toe section.
  6. Work 2 rnds even.
  7. Bind off remaining upper edge.

For the strap, pick up 4 sts at one side opening and work 10 to 12 rows. Sew the strap across the instep to the opposite side. Make two shoes and sew them neatly onto the finished feet.

Basket

The small basket is cylindrical with a flat base, softly ribbed or vertically textured sides, and a curved handle. It sits inside the bunny’s left paw in the image and is filled with extra blossoms in pink and purple shades.

  1. Using brown yarn, CO 8 sts on double-pointed needles.
  2. Increase evenly to 16 sts.
  3. Increase evenly to 24 sts.
  4. K 1 rnd through back loops to create a base edge.
  5. Work 12 rnds in K1, P1 rib or twisted rib for vertical texture.
  6. Bind off loosely.

Stuff the basket base very lightly or insert a circle of felt or card covered in fabric if you want it to stand more clearly. The sample basket appears soft but upright, so either approach works well.

For the handle, make a narrow i-cord about 18 to 20 rows long. Sew one end to each side of the basket opening. If you want a firmer arch, thread fine floral wire through the handle before attaching.

Basket Flowers

Make several tiny blossoms using the small flower method in plum, orchid, blush, and lavender. Tuck them into the basket opening and secure with a few hidden stitches. Let the flowers look abundant and close-packed rather than airy.

Folded Floral Cloth

The folded cloth beside the basket is a charming display detail. It looks like a soft square handkerchief or mini picnic cloth with a pale body, scalloped or decorative edge, and several flowers resting on top.

  1. Using cream or pale ivory yarn, CO 28 sts.
  2. Work 24 rows in garter stitch.
  3. For the final 4 rows, alternate tiny yarn-over eyelet effects or simple contrast edging if desired.
  4. Bind off loosely.

Fold the square twice into a layered triangle or soft rectangle. Add a line of pale pink surface stitching around the edge if you want the delicate border visible in the sample. Arrange extra blossoms over the cloth after assembly.

Tiny Woodland Friend Body

The tiny companion resembles a chipmunk or small woodland creature with chestnut-brown body coloring, cream face, tiny ears, a curved tail, and a dress echoing the color palette of the main bunny. It should feel coordinated rather than identical.

  1. For each leg, CO 8 sts and work 10 rnds in chestnut brown.
  2. Join legs into a body using 2 sts between them at front and back.
  3. Work 10 rnds even over body stitches.
  4. Decrease slightly for waist, then increase slightly for chest.
  5. Work short neck section in cream.

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The little body is compact and upright. Keep proportions small and sweet. The torso should support a short dress that ends above the knees. Light stuffing is enough because the companion is decorative and does not need heavy shaping.

Tiny Woodland Friend Head

  1. Increase from neck to create a rounded head.
  2. Work several rounds even, keeping the muzzle area slightly fuller.
  3. Add cream facial section through duplicate stitch or by knitting the front head area in cream.
  4. Shape the top with even decreases and close.

The face should have tiny dark eyes, a neat nose, and a gentle expression. Two small ears are sewn at the top sides. Add a slim tail worked as a stuffed tube or firm i-cord and curve it outward behind the figure.

Tiny Woodland Friend Dress and Hat

Knit a tiny lilac dress with little puff sleeves and a gently speckled or dotted lower section using small contrast stitches in pink, cream, and green. The sample dress looks soft and decorative without heavy embellishment.

Add a tiny bonnet or brimmed hat in pale beige with a little bow, echoing the main bunny’s headwear. This visual repetition is important because it makes the pair feel like a coordinated set in the final display.

Floral Placement Guide for the Main Dress

Before sewing the flowers in place, lay the dress flat and mark two vertical flowing lines with removable thread. These lines should begin near the upper front under each sleeve area and descend toward the lower skirt, curving slightly inward and outward.

  • Upper section: place one larger blossom near each side of the chest area.
  • Middle section: mix medium blossoms in pink and lavender with small green leaves.
  • Lower section: add smaller blossoms and leaves so the vine tapers naturally toward the hem.
  • Balance: mirror the overall weight, but do not make both sides identical.

The image shows richer blossom clusters near the upper-mid dress and a slightly looser scattering near the bottom. Keep the center front clear so the dress still shows its soft knitted texture and gentle gathered fullness.

Assembly Order

  1. Sew and finish the main bunny body if not already joined continuously.
  2. Attach arms at shoulder level with a slight downward angle.
  3. Sew ears to the head high on the crown, allowing them to drop along the sides.
  4. Dress the bunny in the finished lilac dress.
  5. Sew shoes to the feet.
  6. Fit and stitch bonnet in place.
  7. Add bonnet bow.
  8. Arrange and sew dress flowers and leaves.
  9. Make and place basket, cloth, and loose blossoms.
  10. Complete the tiny woodland friend and dress it.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Place the eyes low enough to create a calm, gentle expression and wide enough apart to keep the face open and sweet. The nose is a tiny stitched Y-shape or triangular nose with a short vertical line and small curved mouth.

Lightly sculpt the muzzle with a strand of matching yarn if needed. Keep the shaping subtle. The face in the image is very soft and natural, not deeply indented. Sew the ears so they frame the bonnet rather than push it upward.

Attach the arms firmly so one paw can rest near the basket. Position the legs to hang straight and relaxed. Add the basket to one side, place the folded cloth beside it, and sit the tiny woodland friend close to the opposite side.

Care Notes

Handle this knitted set as a decorative soft sculpture rather than a rough-play toy. Because of the many sewn flowers, the bonnet bow, and the tiny accessories, gentle treatment will help the details stay beautiful over time.

  • Store away from direct sunlight to reduce fading.
  • Keep away from moisture and rough surfaces.
  • Lift the bunny from the body, not by ears, bow, or dress flowers.
  • Store the tiny accessories together so none are misplaced.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Are the head and body proportions tall and elegant?
  • Do the ears fall softly below the bonnet brim?
  • Does the dress sit above the ankles with a gentle flared hem?
  • Are the floral vines balanced on both sides of the front skirt?
  • Are the puff sleeves soft and rounded?
  • Does the bonnet sit low and frame the face neatly?
  • Is the bow large, structured, and slightly off-center?
  • Do the Mary Jane straps sit cleanly across the feet?
  • Does the basket look full of flowers?
  • Does the tiny woodland friend visually match the main bunny?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For routine care, use a clean dry cloth or a very soft brush to remove surface dust. Work carefully around the dress flowers, bonnet bow, and tiny accessories. Avoid pulling or rubbing across the appliqués.

If deeper cleaning is needed, spot clean only with cool water and a mild wool-safe cleanser. Dab gently, never soak. Blot with a towel, reshape the bunny, bonnet, dress, and accessories, then allow everything to dry flat away from heat.

For long-term preservation, wrap the set in acid-free tissue and store it in a breathable box. Do not compress the bonnet bow or crush the floral appliqués. A little space around the pieces helps them keep their lovely dimensional shaping.

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