Delphinium Stair-Ruffle Bunny – Knitting

This knitted bunny set is a soft heirloom-style project with a sweet meadow look, layered delphinium dress details, a classic bonnet, tiny Mary Jane shoes, a small backpack, a little flower basket, and a matching woodland friend. It is ideal for knitters who love collectible stuffed animals, handmade nursery décor, artisan gift ideas, and boutique-style knitted toys often searched by shoppers looking for handmade bunny dolls, knitted stuffed animals, and keepsake toy sets.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design creates a full knitted display set inspired by the image: one large bunny wearing a blue bonnet and a double-layer delphinium dress, one miniature deer companion in a matching outfit, one small knitted backpack, one flower basket, and one loose bouquet.

The shapes are rounded, gentle, and slightly old-fashioned. The bunny has a broad head, long floppy ears, a plump pear-shaped body, softly tapered arms, sturdy legs, and flat feet that allow it to stand with support when styled carefully.

The clothing is a major part of the look. The dress is not plain. It has a smooth upper bodice, a fuller lower skirt, and a second flounced layer with floral motifs placed around the hem. The floral area is what gives the set its signature look.

The color story matters. Use creamy ivory for the bunny, deep royal blue for the bonnet ties and shoes, soft periwinkle for the dress, lavender for the lower ruffle, and green, blue, and violet embroidery or duplicate stitch details for the delphinium stems and blooms.

Finished Size

• Large bunny: about 12 to 14 inches tall seated, about 15 to 17 inches including bonnet height and ear fall, depending on yarn and stuffing.
• Mini deer: about 5 to 6 inches tall.
• Backpack: about 2 1/2 inches tall.
• Flower basket: about 1 1/2 inches tall excluding flowers.
• Bouquet: about 2 inches long.

Skill Level

Advanced beginner to intermediate. The basic shaping is approachable, but accuracy matters because this set relies on clean finishing, balanced stuffing, tidy seaming, small decorative details, and careful floral placement around the skirt.

Materials

• Sport weight or light DK yarn in ivory for bunny body
• Sport weight or light DK yarn in deep blue for bonnet and shoes
• Sport weight or light DK yarn in soft periwinkle for upper dress and mini deer dress
• Sport weight or light DK yarn in lavender for underskirt and lower ruffle
• Small amounts of leaf green, medium blue, deep blue, violet, pale blue, beige, tan, and brown for details and accessories
• Pair of knitting needles suitable for your yarn, usually 2.5 mm to 3.25 mm
• Set of double-pointed needles if you prefer for narrow parts
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Row counter
• Small sharp scissors
• Polyester toy stuffing
• Black embroidery floss or thin black yarn for eyes
• Brown embroidery floss for nose and mouth
• Optional tiny buttons or embroidered button details for the backpack flap
• Thin card or felt for stabilizing the bottoms of shoes and basket if desired

Gauge

Gauge is not critical in the same way it is for fitted garments, but a dense fabric is essential. Knit tightly enough that the stuffing does not show through. Aim for a firm, smooth fabric with clear stockinette columns and neat edge control.

If your stitches are loose, go down a needle size. The finished toy should feel compact rather than drapey.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• rep = repeat
• sl = slip

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Construction Notes

The large bunny is worked in separate pieces and then assembled. The body is made first, then legs, arms, head, ears, bonnet, dress layers, and accessories. The mini deer is also made in separate pieces, but with simpler shaping.

Most pieces can be worked flat and seamed if that is your preferred method. Narrow limbs may also be worked in the round. Keep your method consistent so the fabric texture matches across each figure.

The face should remain simple. The charm of the set comes from restrained features, gentle shaping, and decorative clothing rather than heavy facial embroidery.

Large Bunny Body

The body should be slightly pear-shaped, wider through the lower half and narrower near the shoulders. This creates the correct silhouette under the dress.

1. Using ivory, CO 24 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in stockinette, beginning with a purl row on the WS.
3. Increase 1 st at each end of the next RS row. Rep this increase every 4th row 5 times total. 34 sts.
4. Work 10 rows even.
5. Increase 1 st at each end of the next RS row, then every 6th row 2 times. 40 sts.
6. Work 12 rows even. This is the fullest part of the tummy and hip area.
7. Begin shaping toward the chest: decrease 1 st at each end of the next RS row, then every 6th row 4 times. 30 sts.
8. Work 8 rows even.
9. Shape shoulders gently: decrease 1 st at each end of the next RS row, then every 4th row 2 times. 24 sts.
10. Work 4 rows even.
11. BO loosely.
12. Make a second body piece the same.

Sew the body pieces together, leaving the neck opening clear. Stuff the lower body firmly, but do not overfill the upper chest. The bunny should look softly rounded, not hard or square.

Large Bunny Legs

Each leg is short, thick, and slightly curved forward. The lower part must be firm enough to support the shoe shape.

1. Using ivory, CO 14 sts.
2. Work 4 rows stockinette.
3. Increase 1 st at each end of the next RS row. 16 sts.
4. Work 8 rows even.
5. Increase 1 st at each end of the next RS row. 18 sts.
6. Work 10 rows even.
7. Decrease 1 st at each end of the next RS row. 16 sts.
8. Work 6 rows even.
9. Decrease 1 st at each end of the next RS row. 14 sts.
10. Work 8 rows even.
11. BO.
12. Make 4 identical leg pieces, two for each leg.

Sew each pair into a tube, close the bottom edge with a curved seam, and stuff firmly. Flatten the foot area slightly at the base while keeping the upper leg softly cylindrical. Attach the legs to the lower body so they angle outward just a little, matching the image.

Large Bunny Arms

The arms are long, soft, and lightly tapered. They are not sharply bent. They hang naturally at the sides and should reach to around the lower skirt level.

1. Using ivory, CO 12 sts.
2. Work 20 rows stockinette.
3. Increase 1 st at each end of the next RS row. 14 sts.
4. Work 8 rows even.
5. Increase 1 st at each end of the next RS row. 16 sts.
6. Work 6 rows even.
7. Decrease 1 st at each end of the next RS row. 14 sts.
8. Work 6 rows even.
9. BO.
10. Make 4 arm pieces total.

Sew and stuff lightly. The hands should stay gently flattened rather than ball-shaped. Attach them just below the neck seam and angle them downward. Avoid placing them too high, or the bunny will lose its calm, relaxed posture.

Large Bunny Head

The head is broad and rounded with a softly narrowed chin area. It should be slightly wider than the body top. Keep the face smooth, as this is important for the delicate embroidered expression.

1. Using ivory, CO 20 sts.
2. Work 4 rows stockinette.
3. Increase 1 st at each end of every RS row 5 times. 30 sts.
4. Work 10 rows even.
5. Increase 1 st at each end of every 4th row 3 times. 36 sts.
6. Work 12 rows even for the full face and crown depth.
7. Decrease 1 st at each end of every 4th row 3 times. 30 sts.
8. Work 6 rows even.
9. Decrease 1 st at each end of every RS row 5 times. 20 sts.
10. Work 2 rows even.
11. BO.
12. Make a second head piece.

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Sew around the head, leaving the neck edge open. Stuff firmly but smoothly, paying special attention to the muzzle area. You may add a small extra pinch of stuffing near the lower center front to create the gentle nose slope seen in the image.

Large Bunny Ears

The ears are long, wide, and floppy. They are sewn into the bonnet area rather than standing upright. Their outer edge is framed by the blue bonnet, while the inner ear remains ivory.

1. Using ivory, CO 8 sts.
2. Increase 1 st at each end of every RS row 5 times. 18 sts.
3. Work 24 rows even.
4. Decrease 1 st at each end of every 4th row 4 times. 10 sts.
5. Work 6 rows even.
6. Decrease 1 st at each end of every RS row 3 times. 4 sts.
7. BO.
8. Make 2 ears.

Sew the ears flat rather than stuffing them heavily. A very thin veil of stuffing or felt between layers is optional, but keep them soft. They should drape down the sides of the head.

Head Shaping and Facial Detailing

Before attaching the head, lightly define the muzzle with a short horizontal sculpting thread across the lower face if desired. Keep it minimal. The image shows a soft face, not a deeply indented one.

• Embroider the eyes as tiny vertical black ovals or knots, placed wide apart.
• Embroider the nose in brown as a small inverted Y shape.
• Extend a short mouth line down and branch gently into two tiny curves.
• Do not add blush, lashes, or heavy cheek shaping.

Attach the head to the body with a secure ladder stitch. Make sure the head sits centered and upright, with a slight forward friendliness rather than a backward tilt.

Bonnet

The bonnet is one of the most recognizable parts of this set. It frames the face closely, covers the crown, and extends into long ties tied in a neat bow at the neck.

1. Using deep blue, CO 14 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Increase 1 st at each end of every RS row 6 times. 26 sts.
4. Work 18 rows even in garter stitch. This forms the rounded crown area and keeps the fabric soft but structured.
5. Decrease 1 st at each end of every 4th row 4 times. 18 sts.
6. Work 4 rows even.
7. Continue by working 20 sts of applied edging around the face opening if desired, or crochet a neat edge later using matching yarn.

For the ties, pick up or attach yarn at the lower front edges and make two narrow I-cords, each about 7 to 8 inches long. Tie them in a soft bow. The bow should look gentle, not oversized.

Attach the bonnet to the head after the ears are sewn in place. The bonnet should frame the face closely and cover the top of the ear bases. Let the ears fall down naturally beneath the side framing.

Upper Dress Bodice

The bodice is smooth and sleeveless with a soft neckline. It is fitted enough to sit neatly under the upper skirt layer but not tight. The shoulder line is subtle because the bunny has rounded shoulders.

1. Using soft periwinkle, CO 36 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in k1, p1 rib.
3. Change to stockinette and work 10 rows even.
4. Decrease 1 st at each end on the next RS row. 34 sts.
5. Work 4 rows even.
6. Decrease 1 st at each end on the next RS row. 32 sts.
7. Work 4 rows even.
8. Shape arm openings by BO 2 sts at each end of the next row. 28 sts.
9. Work 6 rows even.
10. Shape neckline: work 10 sts, BO center 8 sts, work to end.
11. Work each side separately for 4 rows, decreasing 1 st at neck edge every other row twice.
12. BO shoulder sts.
13. Make back piece to match, but add a small opening if you prefer for dressing.

Sew shoulders and side seams. The bodice should sit just under the bunny’s neck and end around the upper tummy where the skirt begins.

Lower Skirt Base

The lower skirt is the lavender layer visible underneath. It should peek out clearly below the upper floral layer, especially near the hemline.

1. Using lavender, CO 72 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Change to stockinette and work 12 rows.
4. On the next RS row, increase evenly by 12 sts across. 84 sts.
5. Work 10 rows even.
6. Create a soft hem ripple by working 1 row: k1, inc across every 6th st. 98 sts approximately.
7. Work 4 rows garter stitch.
8. BO loosely.

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Sew into a ring and gather the top edge slightly to fit the lower bodice. This layer should flare outward. It is not heavily gathered, but it must not fall straight.

To mimic the spotted blue detailing near the lower edge seen in the image, add small vertical duplicate stitches in medium blue and deep blue, spaced evenly around the lavender skirt. Keep them sparse.

Upper Floral Skirt Layer

This upper layer is the statement feature. It sits over the lavender underskirt and flares more widely, creating the stair-ruffle effect suggested by the title. The hem is embroidered or worked with floral motifs resembling upright delphinium stalks.

1. Using soft periwinkle, CO 84 sts.
2. Work 2 rows garter stitch.
3. Work 8 rows stockinette.
4. Increase evenly by 16 sts across the next RS row. 100 sts.
5. Work 8 rows even.
6. Increase evenly by 20 sts across the next RS row. 120 sts.
7. Work 6 rows even.
8. Work 4 rows garter stitch for a soft structured hem.
9. BO loosely.

Sew into a ring. Gather or lightly pleat the top edge so it sits above the lower skirt and over the bodice waistline. The flare should be generous and bell-like, but not stiff.

Delphinium Motif Placement

Use duplicate stitch, Swiss darning, or very neat surface embroidery to add the flowers after knitting. This gives the cleanest control and best image match.

• Place 7 to 9 floral sprays evenly around the upper skirt hem.
• Work each stem in leaf green, rising upward from the hem.
• Add narrow paired leaves angled outward near the base.
• Build the flower head vertically using tiny clustered blue, violet, and pale blue stitches.
• Add a few lighter accent dots so the sprays feel layered and botanical.

The central flowers on the front should be the most visible and slightly taller. Side flowers may be a bit shorter. Keep the background uncluttered so the blooms stand out clearly.

Dress Assembly

Attach the lower lavender skirt to the base of the bodice first. Then attach the upper floral layer slightly above the lower layer attachment seam so it overlaps naturally.

The result should show two visible tiers:

• Top visible tier: periwinkle floral layer with delphinium sprays
• Bottom visible tier: lavender underskirt with scattered blue details

The upper layer should extend just enough to create a staircase effect, with the lower layer still visible below it all the way around.

Shoes

The bunny wears deep blue Mary Jane style shoes with a strap suggestion across the foot. They should fit snugly over the lower legs and show a neat rounded toe.

1. Using deep blue, CO 16 sts.
2. Work 4 rows garter stitch.
3. Work 10 rows stockinette.
4. Shape the toe by decreasing 1 st at each end of every RS row 4 times. 8 sts.
5. Work 2 rows even.
6. BO.
7. Make 4 pieces for two shoes, or work in the round if preferred.

Sew the shoe pieces around the foot section of the legs. Add a small strap across the front opening using either a short knitted strip or a stitched bar. The image shows a simple single-band look rather than a buckled shoe.

Mini Deer Body

The little companion is slender and charming. Its head is narrow, with a light muzzle and a brown body. It wears a small blue bonnet and a matching two-layer dress that echoes the large bunny’s outfit.

1. Using tan or light brown for the head front and darker brown for body pieces, make a small torso with 2 front and 2 back pieces, each beginning with CO 10 sts.
2. Increase to 16 sts gradually over the first 8 rows.
3. Work 10 rows even.
4. Decrease back to 10 sts over the next 8 rows.
5. BO.

Sew and stuff lightly. Keep the torso narrow.

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Mini Deer Legs and Arms

• CO 6 sts for each limb.
• Work 14 to 18 rows stockinette depending on desired length.
• Sew into narrow tubes and stuff minimally.
• Attach legs straight and arms slightly downward.

Mini Deer Head

Create the head from two pieces beginning with 8 sts, increasing to 14 sts, working even, then decreasing back to 8 sts. The muzzle should be lighter than the rest of the face.

Embroider a small black nose, tiny black eyes, and add a few pale spots on the forehead with cream duplicate stitch or embroidery. These spots are important for matching the image.

Mini Deer Ears

Make two tiny leaf-shaped ears in beige with a darker inner line if desired. Attach them so they peek above the bonnet.

Mini Deer Dress and Bonnet

Use the same method as the large bunny, but reduced:

• Simple periwinkle bodice
• Lavender lower ruffle
• Periwinkle upper skirt with 3 to 5 small floral sprays
• Deep blue bonnet with short tie bow

The deer outfit should coordinate closely but not overpower the smaller figure. Keep the florals tiny and crisp.

Backpack

The backpack is a tiny but visible accessory. It is beige and blue with a flap and button detail. Its shape is softly boxy with a slightly rounded top.

1. Using beige, CO 12 sts and work 10 rows stockinette for the front.
2. Switch to blue and work 8 rows for the lower pocket area if desired.
3. Make a matching back piece.
4. For the side gusset, CO 4 sts and work a strip long enough to go around both sides and the base.
5. Sew together into a small pack and stuff lightly or leave flat.

For the flap, CO 8 sts in beige, work 6 rows, then decrease at each end once or twice for a rounded finish. Sew to the back upper edge.

Add:

• a tiny blue button or embroidered circle on the flap
• a small front pocket in beige or blue
• two narrow straps at the back
• a short hanging loop at the top

Flower Basket

The basket is small, shallow, and filled with pastel flowers. The handle arches neatly over the top.

1. Using beige, CO 10 sts and work 4 rows garter stitch for the base strip.
2. Pick up around the edges or sew side panels to make a shallow oval basket about 1 inch across.
3. Keep the basket lightly stuffed or stabilized with felt.

For the handle, make a narrow I-cord or knitted strip and attach securely on both sides.

Fill the basket with tiny knitted or embroidered blossoms in pale blue, lavender, pink, and soft green. Cluster them tightly so the basket looks abundant.

Loose Bouquet

The small bouquet placed near the backpack helps complete the meadow styling. It should look simple and handmade rather than perfectly formal.

• Knit or crochet 4 to 6 miniature flower stems in pale blue and deep blue.
• Bind them together with green yarn.
• Leave the stem ends a bit uneven for a natural gathered look.

You can also use short lengths of floral embroidery wrapped in yarn if you prefer a quicker result, but keep the finish soft and yarn-based so it matches the rest of the set.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the large body pieces.
2. Attach legs, then arms.
3. Sew, stuff, and attach the head.
4. Add face embroidery.
5. Attach ears.
6. Fit and sew the bonnet.
7. Make and attach dress bodice and both skirt layers.
8. Add floral and hem details.
9. Sew on shoes.
10. Construct the mini deer and its clothing.
11. Finish backpack, basket, and bouquet.

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Styling Notes for the Closest Image Match

To achieve the same mood as the image, keep everything soft, neat, and balanced. Do not overstuff the figures. The body and head should look plush, but the limbs should stay slim and elegant.

The bonnet should frame the bunny’s face closely. The ears should hang down inside the bonnet outline. The bow must sit at the neck with two loops and trailing ends.

The dress should flare widely enough that the floral border forms a graceful arc. The lavender lower tier must remain visible beneath the floral upper tier all the way around the front.

The mini deer should stand close in color harmony with the bunny, but remain a secondary character. Its face must be lighter in front, with tiny pale spots on the forehead and a dark narrow muzzle line.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once all pieces are attached, check the symmetry from the front. The head should sit centered over the body, the arms should hang evenly, and the skirt should look level. Adjust the placement of the upper floral layer before making your final securing stitches.

For the large bunny’s face, keep the eyes tiny and evenly spaced. The nose should sit low on the face, with a delicate stitched mouth. For the deer, use the same restraint. Less detail gives the sweetest result here.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• Use cool water and a mild soap for delicate toy cleaning.
• Do not wring the figures.
• Reshape the dress layers, bonnet, and ears while damp.
• Dry flat away from direct heat or strong sun.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both skirt layers visible and balanced?
• Do the floral sprays sit evenly around the front hem?
• Are the bonnet ties the same length?
• Do the shoes match in height and shape?
• Is the face simple, centered, and gentle?
• Do the mini accessories feel scaled correctly beside the bunny?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the set in a clean, dry space. If displaying long term, keep it away from moisture, dust-heavy shelves, and strong sunlight that may fade the blues and lavenders. Tissue support under the skirt can help preserve the ruffled silhouette.

For seasonal storage, wrap each accessory separately so the bouquet, basket handle, and bonnet ties do not snag. Avoid hanging the bunny by the bonnet or ears. Lay flat in a box lined with soft tissue for the best long-term shape retention.