This charming knit bunny is styled like an heirloom woodland doll, with a soft cream body, a warm marigold beret, a petal collar, a white blouse, a glowing autumn skirt, green Mary Jane shoes, a tiny floral crossbody bag, and a small marigold bouquet. It is the kind of collectible toy, handmade bunny doll, nursery gift, and seasonal decor piece that knitters and shoppers often look for when browsing for artisan rabbit dolls, stuffed animals, and boutique knitted gifts.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- DK weight yarn in soft cream for the bunny head, ears, arms, legs, and blouse
- DK weight yarn in deep marigold for the beret, petal collar, and skirt edging
- DK weight yarn in rust, cinnamon, and golden ocher for the skirt color bands
- DK weight yarn in deep forest green for the shoes
- Small amounts of beige, sage, orange, yellow, red-brown, and olive for the bag, bouquet, and bird
- Pair of 2.5 mm needles for tight toy fabric
- Pair of 3 mm needles for garments if you prefer slightly softer drape
- Set of double-pointed needles in matching sizes for narrow tubes
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers
- Toy stuffing
- Black embroidery thread or very fine black yarn for eyes
- Brown embroidery thread for the nose and mouth
- Thin cream or natural string for tying the bouquet
- Two very small buttons for shoe straps if desired
- One tiny button or snap for the bag if you want the flap to close
Finished Size
The bunny is designed as a seated decorative toy measuring about 13 to 15 inches tall from the top of the beret to the bottom of the feet when the legs are extended. The bird companion is much smaller, about 3 to 4 inches tall. The proportions are important to match the image.
- Head is large and softly rounded, slightly wider than the torso
- Ears are long, flat, and gently tapered, hanging down beside the face
- Torso is compact and lightly pear-shaped under the blouse
- Arms are slim tubes with soft rounded paws
- Legs are straight, thick enough to support chunky shoes
- Skirt sits high at the natural waist and spreads widely when the bunny is seated
- Beret is oversized and softly slouched
- Petal collar is bold and wide, almost flower-like around the neckline
Gauge
Exact gauge is less important than firmness, but your fabric must be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. Aim for a smooth stockinette fabric with neat, even stitches and no visible gaps. Tight gauge is essential for the head, limbs, and bird.
A practical target is about 28 to 30 stitches and 36 to 40 rows over 4 inches in stockinette on 2.5 mm needles with DK yarn. If your stitches look loose, drop a needle size. If the fabric becomes stiff and hard to shape, go up slightly.
Color Placement Overview
The visual identity of this bunny comes from its balanced fall palette. The cream body keeps the face soft and gentle. Marigold is concentrated at the hat, collar, and skirt hem. The skirt itself blends warm rust and ocher shades, while the shoes ground the outfit with dark green.
- Head, ears, arms, legs, and blouse: cream
- Beret and bow: marigold
- Collar petals: marigold
- Skirt upper area: rust
- Skirt lower accent bands: cinnamon and ocher
- Hem scallop border: marigold
- Shoes: deep forest green
- Bag base: warm beige
- Bouquet flowers: marigold and orange
- Bird sweater and cap: green
Abbreviations
- K: knit
- P: purl
- St(s): stitch(es)
- K2tog: knit 2 stitches together
- SSK: slip, slip, knit
- M1L: make 1 left
- M1R: make 1 right
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- BO: bind off
- CO: cast on
- Rep: repeat
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Construction Notes
This project is worked as separate pieces and then assembled. The body is made first so you can judge proportions while knitting the clothing. Garments are mostly removable in structure, but the final look is best if the collar, skirt, shoes, and accessories are lightly tacked into place.
The face must remain simple. Only tiny dark eyes and a stitched nose-mouth detail are needed. Do not add cheeks, lashes, or heavy sculpting. The image shows a clean, classic toy expression with minimal features and a calm, gentle mood.
Head
Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 14 sts. Work flat in stockinette, increasing at each end of every RS row until you have 38 sts. Then shape further with slower increases, adding 1 stitch at each end every 4th row three times. You should now have 44 sts.
Work even for 26 rows. This creates the broad center of the face and skull. Keep the tension very even because this large smooth area is highly visible. The head in the image is softly rounded, not overly tall, and slightly full at the cheeks.
Begin crown shaping. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row six times. Work 2 rows even. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row until 14 sts remain. BO. Make a second matching piece.
Place the two head pieces together with RS facing out. Mattress stitch around the edges, leaving the lower neck edge open. Stuff gradually, pushing filling into the cheek area first, then the forehead and crown. The finished head should feel firm but still softly squeezable.
To create the flatter face front seen in the image, do not overstuff the center front. Concentrate slightly more stuffing toward the back of the head. This helps the face sit forward gently and keeps the profile from becoming too round.
Neck and Upper Torso Core
Using cream, pick up or CO 24 sts for the neck base. Work in the round if preferred, or flat in two mirrored panels. Knit 10 rows even. Increase evenly to 30 sts. Work 8 rows. Increase evenly to 36 sts. Work 6 rows. Increase evenly to 42 sts.
Work 14 rows even for the chest and upper torso. The image shows a compact body hidden beneath clothing, so the torso should not be long. Lightly taper by decreasing 1 stitch at each side every 6th row three times. Work 8 more rows, then BO.
Seam and stuff the torso. Keep the stuffing moderate. You want enough structure to support the clothing, but not so much that the blouse stretches tightly. The bunny in the image looks soft and cuddly, with gentle volume rather than a stiff doll form.
Bottom and Hip Shaping
For a stable seated shape, make a small oval base. Using cream, CO 10 sts. Increase at each end every RS row until 20 sts. Work 8 rows even. Decrease at each end every RS row until 10 sts. BO. Sew this oval across the lower torso opening.
Before closing completely, add a little extra stuffing at the lower front so the belly curves softly outward beneath the blouse and skirt. The image suggests a rounded but not bulky center body. Join the torso firmly to the head with strong whip stitches.
Ears
Make 2 in cream. CO 8 sts. Work in stockinette. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row four times to 16 sts. Work even for 28 rows. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end every 6th row three times, then every 4th row until 8 sts remain.
Work 4 rows even, then BO. Sew side edges together lightly near the base only, leaving most of each ear flat. Do not stuff. Steam lightly or finger press. The ears should drape smoothly downward from under the beret and frame the face closely.
Attach the ears slightly behind the side midpoint of the head, not directly on top. The top of each ear should disappear partly beneath the beret edge. Angle them so they fall forward a little, with the lower ends resting near the shoulder line.
Arms
Make 2 in cream. CO 10 sts and join carefully if working in the round, or work flat and seam later. Knit 8 rows. Increase evenly to 12 sts. Work 20 rows even. Add a very gentle elbow curve by working 2 short-row turns if desired.
For the paw end, work 4 rows even, then decrease evenly to 8 sts. Knit 2 rows. Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, and draw closed. Stuff lightly. The arms in the image are soft and slim, with rounded ends and no separate fingers.
Sew the cast-on end closed after adding just enough stuffing to keep the arm shape. Attach at the shoulder under the collar line. The arms should hang straight with a slight outward angle. They should be long enough that the hands reach the upper skirt area.
Legs
Make 2 in cream. CO 14 sts. Work 36 rows in stockinette for the main leg tube. The legs should look straight and sturdy, not narrow. Add 2 extra rows at the lower front using a tiny short-row wedge if you want the shoe fit to tilt naturally.
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Stuff the leg firmly from ankle to knee and more softly near the top. Close the top edge later during assembly. The visible portion in the image is fairly smooth and cylindrical, ending inside chunky shoes and extending below the skirt as two even cream columns.
Feet Base
For each foot, using cream, CO 8 sts. Increase at both ends every RS row until 18 sts. Work 10 rows even. Decrease at both ends every RS row until 8 sts. BO. Sew to the bottom of each leg as an oval sole foundation. This helps the shoe hold shape.
Blouse
The blouse is a simple cream top with short puffed sleeves and a clean lower edge. It reads as a softly fitted knit garment, ending right at the waist where the skirt begins. The neckline stays mostly hidden by the large marigold petal collar.
Using cream and 3 mm needles, CO 48 sts for the lower body of the blouse. Work 6 rows in K1, P1 rib. Switch to stockinette and work 18 rows even. On the next RS row, divide for front and back armholes: 12 sts front, 24 sts back, 12 sts front.
Work each section flat for 10 rows, shaping shallow armholes by binding off 2 stitches at each armhole edge once, then decreasing 1 stitch every RS row twice. Bind off shoulders and keep the neckline simple and slightly wide.
For sleeves, pick up 20 sts around each armhole. Work 4 rows stockinette, increase evenly to 24 sts, then work 8 rows. Decrease evenly back to 18 sts. Finish with 4 rows in K1, P1 rib and BO loosely. The sleeves should look lightly puffed, not floppy.
Sew blouse seams neatly. Dress the bunny before attaching the collar if you want the clothing to remain removable. If you prefer a permanent styled doll, slip the blouse on and tack it invisibly under each arm and at the back neckline.
Marigold Petal Collar
This collar is one of the most important visual elements. It sits flat and wide like a flower around the neck, made of distinct petal points. It should not look frilly or lacy. Each petal is smooth, rounded, and substantial, with clear shape and gentle overlap.
Using marigold, make 6 petals. For each petal, CO 3 sts. Row 1: K. Row 2: P. Row 3: K1, M1, K1, M1, K1. Row 4: P. Row 5: K1, M1, K3, M1, K1. Continue increasing in this manner every RS row until 13 sts.
Work 8 rows even. Then begin decreases. On every RS row, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Continue until 3 sts remain. Knit 1 WS row, then K3tog and fasten off. The finished petal should be broad, gently pointed, and slightly cupped.
Arrange the 6 petals around the neck opening, overlapping the edges just a little so they create a flower collar. Sew them onto a narrow neckband strip, or directly onto the blouse neckline. The front center should show two petals pointing downward over the chest.
The side petals should angle toward the shoulders, and the back petals should fill the neckline without rising upward. Steam very lightly from the wrong side through a cloth if needed. Do not flatten too much or the collar will lose its sculpted petal look.
Skirt
The skirt is full, warm-toned, and distinctly autumnal. It starts at the waist in rust, expands into a broad seated silhouette, then finishes with lighter horizontal color bands and a marigold scalloped edge. The hem is wavy and decorative but still structured.
Using rust and 3 mm needles, CO 72 sts. Join for working in the round, or work flat and seam later. Work 6 rows in K1, P1 rib for the waistband. Switch to stockinette. Increase 1 stitch every 8 stitches on the next knit row. You now have 81 sts.
Work 8 rows even. On the next knit row, increase 1 stitch every 9 stitches to 90 sts. Work 8 rows even. Increase 1 stitch every 10 stitches to 99 sts. Work 10 rows even. Change to cinnamon and work 6 rows.
Change to rust for 4 rows. Change to golden ocher for 4 rows. Change back to rust for 6 rows. The image shows softly blended warm bands rather than sharp high-contrast stripes, so keep the sequence low and harmonious, with rust still dominant overall.
For extra sweep, increase 1 stitch every 11 stitches on the next knit row to 108 sts. Work 6 rows even. Now begin the scalloped lower shaping. Work a setup row in marigold: K3, K2tog, yo across or use your preferred decorative edge sequence for gentle waves.
A simpler version that keeps the look clean is this: work 3 rows in marigold, increasing 1 stitch every 12 stitches on row 1. Then create scallops by repeating short bind-off shells around the hem when finishing. This approach produces the rounded petal-like edge seen in the photo.
For shell-like edging, BO 4 stitches, attach yarn to next stitch, CO 4 new stitches backward loop, knit 6 rows on these 4 stitches only, decrease to 2 stitches, then BO and rejoin to the skirt edge. Repeat all around. This makes a rhythmic wavy border.
If you prefer a faster method, crochet is not required. Instead, create each scallop as a tiny knitted tab worked directly from live hem stitches. Keep the scallops fairly shallow. In the image, the hem is decorative but not deep enough to look like separate petals.
The finished skirt should flare widely when seated and cover the top of the legs. Sew or join it at the waistline of the bunny body. The hem should sit just above the ankles, allowing the full shoes to remain visible.
Beret
The beret is oversized and softly slouched, sitting low across the forehead and ears. It has a smooth stockinette body, a narrow ribbed edge, and a knitted bow on one side. The crown should be roomy rather than fitted, with gentle volume toward the back.
Using marigold and 3 mm needles, CO 64 sts. Join in the round. Work 6 rows in K1, P1 rib. Increase evenly to 80 sts on the next round. Work 8 rounds knit. Increase evenly to 96 sts. Work 8 more rounds. Increase evenly to 112 sts.
Work 16 rounds even. This is the fullest section of the beret and creates the soft droop. Now begin crown shaping by placing markers every 14 sts. Round 1: knit to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; repeat around. Knit 3 rounds even.
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Repeat the decrease round every 4th round three times, then every 2nd round until 16 sts remain. Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight, and secure. Weave in neatly. Lightly stuff the crown with a whisper of fiber only if you want lasting puff.
Make the side bow. CO 8 sts in marigold. Work 18 rows stockinette. BO. Pinch the center and wrap a short yarn strand around the middle several times. Sew the bow at the right side of the beret near the lower edge, as shown in the image.
Place the beret low and slightly forward. One side should droop a little more than the other. Tack it invisibly to the head at the back and just above each ear so it stays posed. Do not pull it tight or the soft relaxed shape will be lost.
Shoes
The shoes are deep green Mary Jane style slippers with rounded toes, visible openings at the instep, and a single strap crossing the top. They are fairly chunky and slightly oversized, which makes the bunny feel childlike and sweet.
For each shoe sole, using green and 2.5 mm needles, CO 8 sts. Increase at each end every RS row until 18 sts. Work 12 rows even. Decrease at each end every RS row until 8 sts. BO. Make 2. This sole should be slightly longer than the foot base.
For each upper, pick up 18 sts around the front half of the sole. Work 8 rows stockinette. On the next RS row, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Repeat this decrease row every other row three more times to round the toe.
For the heel section, pick up 10 stitches across the back and work 8 rows. Join the sides to the front carefully, leaving an oval opening on top. For the strap, CO 12 sts and work 3 rows in garter. Sew one end to the outer side of the shoe.
Wrap the strap across the instep and sew to the inner side with a tiny decorative button if desired. Slip the finished shoes onto the bunny feet and tack them lightly underneath and at the heel. They should point forward and sit evenly at the same angle.
Crossbody Bag
The small bag is a tiny but essential detail. It hangs from the left shoulder to the right side of the skirt. It is beige with a simple flap and a tiny floral motif on the front. The shape is softly triangular-oval rather than square.
Using beige, CO 10 sts. Work 2 rows garter. Increase 1 stitch at each end every RS row four times to 18 sts. Work 10 rows even. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row four times to 10 sts. Work 4 rows even for the flap and BO.
Make a second matching piece without the final 4 flap rows. Sew front and back together around the sides and bottom, leaving top open beneath the flap. For the strap, make an i-cord or narrow knitted cord about 12 to 14 inches long.
Sew the strap to the upper side corners so the bag hangs at mid-skirt level. Embroider the floral motif on the front using marigold, rust, olive, and cream. Keep the flowers tiny and primitive, more like folk floral dots and petals than realistic blooms.
Bouquet
The bouquet in the bunny’s hand is tied with a pale string and made of several thin green stems topped with clustered marigold blossoms. It should feel handmade and slightly rustic. The flowers are small but visible, with warm orange and yellow tones.
Make 5 stems using green i-cord or tightly twisted yarn strands, each about 3 inches long. For each flower, CO 4 sts in marigold or orange. Work 3 rows stockinette, then K2tog across to create a little gathered nub. Wrap and stitch into a small rosette.
You can also make each flower by winding yarn around the tapestry needle several times, then securing it into a knotty puff. Use a mix of marigold and deeper orange. Cluster the blossoms in pairs and singles at the top of the stems.
Gather the stems together and tie with thin cream string into a small bow. Place the bouquet against the front right side of the bunny so it rests over the skirt. Tack it to one hand and one spot on the skirt so it stays beautifully arranged.
Bird Companion
The tiny robin-like companion on the bench adds storybook charm. It has a round rust-orange head and chest, brown wings, a pale underside, tiny feet, a green sweater, and a small tilted green cap. Although small, its colors and proportions matter a lot.
Bird Body
Using rust-orange, CO 8 sts. Increase at each end every RS row until 18 sts. Work 10 rows even. Change to cream for the lower belly and work 4 rows. Then begin decreases at each end every RS row until 8 sts remain. BO. Make 2 pieces.
For a more rounded bird, add one extra increase row near the middle. Sew around, stuff lightly but firmly, and close. The body should be plump and upright, with the chest slightly puffed forward. Keep it compact so it looks tiny beside the bunny.
Wings
Using brown, CO 6 sts. Work 2 rows. Increase 1 stitch at each end every RS row twice to 10 sts. Work 4 rows even. Then decrease at each end every RS row until 4 sts. BO. Make 2. Sew flat to the bird sides so they sit low and rounded.
Beak and Eyes
For the beak, use a tiny orange or mustard yarn stitch cluster at the center front. Keep it very small. Make tiny dark knot eyes or short satin stitches. The eyes should sit wider apart than you might expect, giving the bird a sweet, alert look.
Bird Sweater
Using green, CO 20 sts. Work 4 rows K1, P1 rib. Knit 8 rows stockinette. Divide a small opening for the wings if desired, or simply wrap the body and seam at the back. The sweater should cover the chest and upper body like a snug little vest.
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Bird Cap
Using olive green, CO 24 sts and join. Work 3 rounds rib, then 4 rounds knit. Decrease evenly by 6 stitches. Knit 1 round. Decrease evenly by 6 stitches again. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight. Add a tiny stem nub at the top if desired.
Place the cap at a jaunty angle. Tack it lightly. Sit the finished bird close beside the bunny, touching the skirt edge or shoe side. It should look like a companion rather than a separate large toy.
Assembly Order
- Sew and stuff the head
- Sew and stuff the torso, then join head to body
- Attach ears under the future beret line
- Sew and attach arms
- Sew and attach legs
- Dress the bunny in the blouse
- Add the skirt at the waist
- Attach or position the petal collar
- Place the shoes on the feet
- Secure the beret to the head
- Add the bag strap across the body
- Tack bouquet into place
- Complete the bird and position it beside the bunny
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Place the eyes first. Use tiny black stitches, set low on the face and spaced evenly. They should be no larger than pinpoints. The expression in the image depends on restraint, so avoid large safety eyes or heavy embroidered shapes.
For the nose, stitch a small inverted triangle in warm brown. From the bottom point, add a short vertical line and a shallow split mouth. Keep the embroidery neat and centered. Pull gently so the thread settles into the knit without puckering the face.
When attaching the head to the body, angle it only very slightly forward. The bunny should look poised and calm. Attach the arms low enough that the petal collar remains fully visible. Check that the skirt sits evenly all around and the shoes match in height.
Secure the bag so the strap crosses diagonally from the bunny’s left shoulder to the right hip. Arrange the bouquet so the flower heads face outward. Tuck the bird close to the bunny to recreate the storytelling balance seen in the image.
Care Notes
This knitted doll is best treated as a decorative toy or gentle keepsake. Spot clean when possible. If a fuller wash is needed, use cool water, mild soap, and very light handling. Avoid twisting, rubbing, or hanging the doll when wet.
Press out excess water in a towel and reshape by hand. Dry flat away from direct sunlight or heat. Straighten the ears, smooth the skirt scallops, round the beret, and reshape the bird cap while damp. Do not machine dry.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head is round, smooth, and not overstuffed in the face center
- Ears hang evenly and disappear partly under the beret
- Collar has six full petals and sits flat around the neck
- Skirt flares widely with warm blended color bands
- Hem edging forms soft rounded waves
- Shoes are balanced and straps sit neatly across the instep
- Bag hangs diagonally at the correct height
- Bouquet is tied and angled naturally
- Bird companion is small in scale beside the bunny
- Facial embroidery stays minimal and centered
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Store the finished piece in a clean, dry area with stable temperature. If displaying seasonally, wrap it in acid-free tissue between uses. Keep dark accessories from pressing directly against the cream face for long periods, especially in humid conditions.
To prevent flattening, support the beret and collar lightly when packed. Do not place heavy items on top of the doll or bird. If lint gathers on the cream yarn, remove it gently by hand or with a very soft garment brush.
For heirloom storage, place the bunny in a breathable cotton bag rather than sealed plastic. Refresh the shape every few months by lightly patting the stuffing into place and checking the bouquet, shoes, and bag strap tacking stitches.
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Closing Notes
This design is all about proportion, softness, and color harmony. The cream bunny body must stay simple so the marigold beret, flower collar, and glowing autumn skirt become the focal points. Take your time with finishing, because the final styling creates the magic.
When all the details are in place, the result is a gentle woodland bunny with a storybook mood, perfectly matched to the image: calm face, drooping ears, oversized beret, petal collar, warm skirt, green shoes, tiny floral bag, hand-tied bouquet, and a sweet little bird friend.
