Tulip Parlor-Pleat Bunny – Knitting

This sweet knitted bunny is styled like a collectible heirloom doll, dressed in a tulip cardigan, a softly striped pleated skirt, matching Mary Jane shoes, and a rosy beret with a tiny flower. The full set also includes a little tulip tote, a miniature flower pot, a tiny notebook, and a small duck friend in a jacket and beret. The finished design has the polished look people often search for in a handmade knit bunny doll, nursery decor piece, stuffed rabbit gift, and keepsake toy for spring displays, Easter baskets, baby gifts, and cottage-style shelf decor.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This bunny is worked as a detailed toy with separate clothing and accessories, so the silhouette stays close to the image. The head is large and rounded, the body is soft and lightly pear-shaped, and the limbs are slim and gentle rather than chunky.

The overall look depends on fine gauge knitting, neat stuffing, careful shaping, and very balanced finishing. The cardigan should sit just below the waist, the skirt should flare wide from the waistband, and the beret should look softly full instead of flat.

The tiny companion pieces matter in this design. The tote, tulip pot, notebook, and duck are not filler items. They help create the exact garden-parlor scene shown in the image, so each one is included as part of the full pattern.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 12 to 14 inches tall seated, depending on yarn and gauge
• Duck friend: about 4 to 5 inches tall
• Tulip tote: about 2 inches wide
• Flower pot with tulips: about 2 inches tall
• Notebook: about 1.5 inches tall

Materials

• Sport or light DK yarn in cream for bunny body
• Small amount of warm beige or oatmeal for paw and foot shading
• Dusty rose yarn for beret and shoe trim
• Light pink yarn for skirt stripes, tulip petals, and details
• Medium pink yarn for deeper tulip accents
• Soft green yarn for leaves, stems, and skirt stripes
• Cream yarn for cardigan
• Duck yellow yarn
• Soft blue yarn for duck jacket
• Orange yarn for duck beak and feet
• Very small scraps of brown or terracotta for the flower pot
• Small scraps for notebook cover and edging
• Black safety eyes or black beads for bunny eyes
• Black embroidery thread for duck eyes if preferred
• Pink mini buttons for cardigan front
• Tapestry needle
• Double-pointed needles or magic loop needles suitable for your yarn
• Straight or circular needles for flat pieces
• Polyester stuffing
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas scrap for notebook cover support if desired
• Optional fine wire for flower stems if you want them posed

Suggested Needles and Gauge

Use needles small enough to create a firm fabric that keeps stuffing from showing through. For sport yarn, 2.25 mm to 2.75 mm usually works well. For light DK, 2.75 mm to 3.25 mm often works best.

Target toy gauge: a dense, smooth stockinette fabric with very little visible gap between stitches. The exact stitch count matters less than firmness, but consistency matters a lot for this design.

Color Placement Notes

• The bunny body is primarily cream
• Hands and lower legs have a soft shaded cuff area in beige
• The cardigan is cream with pink and rose tulip motifs and green stems
• The skirt is vertical striped pleat fabric in pale pink and green on a blush base
• The shoes are cream with rosy pink edging and straps
• The beret is dusty rose with one pink bud and two green leaves
• The duck is yellow with a blue jacket and dusty rose beret

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• Garter = knit every row
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

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Main Bunny Body

Legs Make 2

Each leg is worked from the foot upward. The lower foot is rounded and full, but the ankle and calf are narrower. This keeps the seated pose from looking bulky.

1. CO 14 sts in cream.
2. Work 1 row K.
3. Increase evenly across next row to 20 sts.
4. Work 5 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
5. Shape the sole by working short rows or by knitting 6 center stitches for 4 extra passes to create a gently rounded foot pad.
6. Resume across all stitches and work 4 more rows in St st.
7. Begin leg tube and switch lower 6 to 8 rounds to beige if you want the subtle shaded paw section seen in the image.
8. Work 14 to 16 rounds even.
9. Decrease 2 sts evenly on next round.
10. Work 6 rounds even.
11. Leave stitches live or place on holder.

Stuff the foot firmly and the upper leg more lightly. The foot needs a clear oval front so the shoes sit neatly later.

Joining the Legs and Working the Body

The bunny sits with slightly separated legs and a soft rounded lower body. To get that shape, join the legs with a small bridge rather than knitting them tightly together.

1. Place both legs on the needle.
2. Using cream, knit across first leg, CO 4 bridge stitches, knit across second leg, CO 4 bridge stitches to join in the round.
3. You now have approximately 40 to 44 sts, depending on your leg count.
4. Work 6 rounds even.
5. Increase 4 sts evenly around.
6. Work 8 rounds even.
7. Increase 4 sts evenly again.
8. Work 10 rounds even.

The lower body should now look softly full, almost pear-shaped. Stuff the legs and lower torso as you go, keeping the seat nicely rounded.

1. Work 1 decrease round, removing 4 sts evenly.
2. Work 6 rounds even.
3. Work another decrease round, removing 4 sts evenly.
4. Work 4 rounds even for the chest.

The chest should be slimmer than the hip area. This contrast helps the cardigan fit well and keeps the skirt from riding too high.

Shoulder Section

1. Divide front and back if working flat for shaped shoulders, or continue in the round and use decreases at four shoulder points.
2. Work 2 shaping rounds to taper slightly.
3. Leave neck stitches live.

Arms Make 2

The arms are slim and straight with a very slight natural bend. They should reach to just below the cardigan hem when attached.

1. CO 10 sts in beige.
2. Work 4 rows St st.
3. Change to cream.
4. Increase to 12 sts.
5. Work 18 to 22 rows even, depending on desired arm length.
6. For a gentle bend, place a tiny marker at elbow level and add one short row turn on the inside arm.
7. Work 2 more rows.
8. Lightly stuff the hand and forearm, leaving upper arm soft.
9. Thread yarn through live stitches and draw closed, or flatten and seam closed for a shaped top.

Head

The head is the key to the look. It is large, smooth, and almost spherical, but slightly fuller at the cheeks than at the crown. The muzzle is shaped by sculpting rather than by adding a separate snout.

1. CO 12 sts in cream.
2. Distribute evenly and join in the round.
3. Increase 6 sts every other round until you have about 48 to 54 sts.
4. Work 16 to 20 rounds even.

At this stage, check proportions against the body. The head should look bigger than a realistic bunny head and have the sweet doll-like scale seen in the image.

1. Begin decreases: decrease 6 sts every other round for 3 rounds.
2. Stuff firmly, especially across the cheeks and forehead.
3. Continue decreasing 6 sts every round until 12 sts remain.
4. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close neatly.

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Face Sculpting

Use strong matching thread to lightly indent the face. The nose sits low and centered, while the eyes sit fairly wide apart and slightly above the nose line. The cheeks should remain full.

• Create a small vertical indentation from nose point down toward the mouth area
• Sculpt two gentle cheek dips if needed
• Do not over-tighten, or the face will lose its soft rounded expression

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, flat, and softly rounded at the tips. They hang straight down from under the beret and extend past the shoulder line.

1. CO 8 sts in cream.
2. Work flat in St st.
3. Increase 1 st at each side every 4th row 3 times.
4. Work even until ear measures about 5.5 to 6.5 inches.
5. Shape tip by decreasing 1 st at each side every other row until 4 sts remain.
6. Knit 1 row, then BO.

Make optional inner ear panels in pale blush if you want a slightly warmer inside ear tone. In the image, the inner ear area is subtle and soft, not strongly contrasted.

Tail

The tail is tiny and mostly hidden by the skirt and seated position.

1. CO 8 sts in cream.
2. Work a tiny round puff or knit a small gathered circle.
3. Stuff lightly and attach centered on the lower back.

Cardigan

The cardigan is cream, hip length, and fitted gently through the shoulders. It closes in front with tiny pink buttons and has embroidered or duplicate-stitched tulips around the lower body. The sleeves are slim and end just above the wrists.

Back

1. CO 30 sts in cream.
2. Work 6 rows in K1, P1 rib.
3. Continue in St st for 18 rows.
4. Shape armholes by BO 2 sts at each side once, then decrease 1 st at each side on next 2 RS rows.
5. Work even until shoulder height matches body.
6. Shape shoulders by BO 6 sts at each side.
7. Leave center back neck stitches on holder or BO loosely.

Left Front

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in K1, P1 rib.
3. Continue in St st, keeping 3 front edge sts in garter for button band effect.
4. Work to match back length to armhole.
5. Shape armhole at side edge as for back.
6. When front reaches neck level, decrease 1 st at neck edge every other RS row 4 to 5 times.
7. BO shoulder to match back.

Right Front

Work as left front, reversing shaping. Add 4 to 5 buttonholes spaced evenly down the front edge.

For each buttonhole, work one of the following:

• YO, k2tog for a tiny eyelet buttonhole
• BO 1 stitch and cast it on again next row for a slightly stronger opening

Sleeves Make 2

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.
3. Increase 1 st each side every 8th row 3 times.
4. Work until sleeve length reaches wrist to shoulder on the bunny body.
5. Shape sleeve cap by BO 2 sts at each side once, then decrease 1 st each side every other row until cap fits armhole.
6. BO remaining stitches.

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Cardigan Tulip Motif

The lower cardigan front and lower back carry a row of small tulips. These can be worked afterward using duplicate stitch because that gives the cleanest control over placement.

Each tulip is tiny, upright, and simple. Use a green stem, two small leaves, and a flower head in dark rose, dusty pink, or pale pink. Space them evenly around the lower cardigan.

• Back: 3 tulips
• Each front: 2 or 3 tulips depending on width
• Keep motifs low enough to sit above the ribbing but below the bust line

Attach tiny pink buttons down the front. The image shows a soft, charming row of small pink buttons that visually echo the tulips.

Pleated Skirt

This skirt is one of the main visual features. It is not a plain tube. It needs soft vertical contrast so it reads like neat parlor pleats from a distance. The skirt is blush-pink overall with narrow green vertical accents that create a tailored striped effect.

Waistband

1. CO enough stitches to fit the bunny waist snugly. For many gauges, 72 to 84 sts works well.
2. Join carefully without twisting.
3. Work 4 to 6 rounds in K1, P1 rib or plain knit folded waistband.

Pleat Stripe Pattern

Use a repeating vertical stripe pattern. One simple version that matches the visual effect is:

• 3 rounds blush-pink background
• Work 1 narrow green stitch column every 6 to 8 stitches
• Continue these columns throughout the skirt length

A nice method is to create faux pleat columns by purling the green stripe stitches on the RS if worked flat, or by keeping them as visual columns when worked in the round. The goal is a graceful, evenly flared striped skirt rather than a stiff accordion texture.

Skirt Shaping

1. After waistband, increase evenly across first skirt round by 12 to 16 sts.
2. Work 6 rounds even.
3. Increase again evenly by 10 to 12 sts.
4. Work 6 rounds even.
5. Increase a third time evenly by 10 to 12 sts.
6. Continue until skirt reaches just below knee level when the bunny is seated.

The hem should spread softly and naturally. It should not be frilly. It should look like a neat A-line doll skirt with fine vertical structure.

1. BO loosely.
2. Steam very lightly or block flat to encourage even flare.

Mary Jane Shoes Make 2

The shoes are cream with rosy pink edging, strap detail, and a matching sole trim. They should be slightly oversized in the charming toy-doll way seen in the image.

1. Pick up stitches around each foot or work separate shoes to sew on.
2. For separate shoes, begin with sole in cream using 14 to 16 stitches.
3. Shape toe with short rows or side increases to create an oval slipper front.
4. Work upper in cream for 4 to 5 rounds.
5. Change to dusty rose and work 1 round around opening for trim.
6. Create a strap by knitting a narrow i-cord or 3-stitch band.
7. Sew strap across instep with a tiny decorative knot or stitched button point.
8. Add a dusty rose edge around sole for the two-tone finish.

The strap placement should sit slightly high over the foot, not low near the toe. This keeps the classic Mary Jane look.

Beret

The beret is soft, rounded, and full, with a ribbed band and a puffed crown. It sits low and slightly roomy, covering the upper ear attachment area. The crown should lean gently rather than standing upright.

1. CO 48 sts in dusty rose.
2. Join in round and work 6 to 8 rounds in K1, P1 rib.
3. Increase evenly to 72 sts.
4. Work 10 to 14 rounds in St st.
5. Begin crown shaping by decreasing 8 sts evenly every other round.
6. When 16 sts remain, decrease every round until 8 sts remain.
7. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close.

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Lightly steam if needed so the beret relaxes into a soft round cap. It should not be tight like a beanie.

Beret Flower and Leaves

1. Knit or embroider one small pink tulip bud.
2. Make two tiny green leaves in garter or duplicate stitch felted shape.
3. Attach flower and leaves to one side front of the beret.

Tulip Tote Bag

This bag is cream with tulip motifs on the front and a soft blush handle. It is boxy, tiny, and sits beside the bunny like a little spring handbag.

1. CO 12 sts in cream for front.
2. Work 14 rows St st with 1 garter stitch at each side edge for neat seaming.
3. Make matching back.
4. Make a narrow base strip and two side strips, or seam front and back directly with a flat boxed bottom.
5. Duplicate stitch 3 tiny tulips on front panel before assembly.
6. Knit or make an i-cord handle in dusty rose or blush pink.
7. Sew pieces together neatly and attach handle.

Stuff the bag very lightly or leave flat. In the image it looks like a small structured handbag rather than a floppy sack.

Mini Notebook

The little notebook is tiny and rectangular with a pale cover and delicate edge detail. It adds charm to the table setting and only needs very simple construction.

1. CO 10 sts in pale blush or cream.
2. Work 14 rows in garter.
3. BO.
4. Fold in half like a booklet.
5. Insert a small rectangle of thin cardboard if you want firmer covers.
6. Wrap a strand of contrast yarn around edge for binding detail.

Flower Pot with Tulips

The pot is small and brown with a tight opening, holding a little bouquet of pink tulips in mixed shades. The stems are green and slightly angled outward.

Pot

1. CO 10 sts in terracotta or brown.
2. Join and work 3 rounds.
3. Increase to 14 sts.
4. Work 5 rounds even.
5. Purl 1 ridge to suggest the rim break if desired.
6. Work 2 more rounds.
7. Stuff lightly or place a tiny felt plug inside.

Tulips

Make 5 small tulip heads in mixed pinks.

1. For each tulip, CO 6 sts in pink.
2. Work a tiny cup shape over a few rows with one increase round and one decrease round.
3. Close tip softly so petal shape remains rounded.
4. Make green stems as i-cords, twisted yarn cords, or embroidered stems over wire.
5. Attach small green leaves near lower stem if desired.
6. Gather stems and fix into pot.

The flowers should sit close together in a cozy bouquet, not spread too widely.

Duck Friend

The duck is a charming secondary character with a yellow body, orange beak and feet, a blue jacket, and a tiny dusty rose beret. Its proportions are plump and childlike, with a wide belly and very small wings hidden under the jacket.

Duck Body

1. CO 12 sts in yellow.
2. Increase evenly to 36 sts over the first several rounds.
3. Work 10 rounds even for the body.
4. Continue upward into neck and head with a slight narrowing, then increase again gently for rounded cheeks.
5. Stuff firmly but keep the lower belly extra full.
6. Decrease to close top.

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Beak

1. CO 6 sts in orange.
2. Work 2 short rows or a tiny wedge.
3. Sew flat to center face.

Feet

1. Make 2 tiny orange oval feet.
2. Sew to base so duck can balance in a standing pose with support from tail and body.

Duck Jacket

The jacket is short, blue, and slightly open at the front with a rounded collar look. It should not hide the duck’s entire belly.

1. CO 24 sts in blue.
2. Work small back and front sections like a miniature cardigan.
3. Add tiny sleeves or wing-cover caps.
4. Sew together and fit around body.
5. Add one tiny yellow or cream button at front if desired.

Duck Beret

1. CO 20 sts in dusty rose.
2. Work 3 rounds rib.
3. Increase to 30 sts and work 4 rounds St st.
4. Decrease evenly until top closes.

Assembly Order

Take your time with assembly. This design depends more on finishing than on difficult stitch techniques. Precise placement gives the set its polished personality.

1. Sew head to body, making sure the chin sits slightly forward
2. Attach arms just below shoulder slope
3. Sew ears to the upper side of head, spaced evenly and low enough to fall under the beret edge
4. Attach tail to lower back
5. Dress bunny in cardigan and skirt
6. Sew shoes in place or slip them on and tack discreetly
7. Place beret slightly tilted
8. Finish tote, notebook, flower pot, and duck

Facial Embroidery Placement

The bunny face is very simple. That simplicity is important. Overworked features will change the mood completely.

• Eyes: place evenly and fairly wide apart, about halfway up the face
• Nose: embroider a small inverted triangle in taupe or brownish pink
• Mouth: create a short split line below nose with two tiny curved stitches
• Keep expression calm, sweet, and neutral

The duck face is even simpler. Use two tiny black eyes and one neat orange beak centered between them.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

• The bunny should sit with legs forward and slightly apart
• The cardigan hem should end just above the skirt waistband flare
• The skirt should spread broadly when seated
• The beret should look soft and roomy
• The flower on the beret should sit on one side, not centered
• The tote should have visible tulip decoration on the front
• The duck jacket should be bright enough to contrast clearly with the bunny outfit

Helpful Tips for New Knitters

Keep the gauge firm. Soft loose stitches may look nice in garments, but toys need dense fabric for smooth shaping and tidy stuffing.

Stuff a little at a time. Add small pinches of stuffing and smooth them with the blunt end of a needle or chopstick. Large clumps create lumps that are hard to hide later.

Check proportions often. Before sewing permanently, pin all parts in place and compare the silhouette. The head should feel charmingly large, and the skirt should feel generous without becoming heavy.

Do duplicate stitch slowly. Tiny tulips are small details, but they carry the whole garden theme. Neat spacing matters more than speed.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are attached, dress the bunny fully before making final facial adjustments. Sometimes the posture changes slightly once the cardigan, skirt, and beret are in place. Check the eye balance, then refine the nose and mouth if needed.

Steam the skirt lightly, shape the beret by hand, and straighten the tote handle. Arrange the tulip pot, notebook, and duck so the full display feels balanced and gentle.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sun
• Handle the flower pot and tote gently because they are small accent pieces
• Avoid rough pulling on the beret flower, duck jacket, and shoe straps
• For collector-style display, support the bunny in a seated position

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and secure
• Ears even in length and angle
• Eyes level
• Nose centered
• Cardigan closes neatly
• Tulip motifs spaced evenly
• Skirt flares smoothly
• Shoes match in height and trim
• Beret tilted softly
• Duck, tote, notebook, and flower pot all completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a soft cloth and mild soap only when needed. Do not soak the toy if it includes buttons, dense stuffing, or wired floral stems. Press gently with a towel and let it air dry fully in shape.

Store in a clean dry place. Tissue support inside the skirt and beret can help preserve shape during long storage. Keep dark items away from the cream body if the set is packed tightly for a long period.