Bleeding Heart Valentine-Cape Bunny – Knitting

This heirloom-style knitted bunny is designed to match the sweet garden look in the photo, with a soft ivory body, a dusty-rose dress, a short cape, a petal-edged bonnet, bright red shoes, a tiny heart-shaped bag, and a small woodland companion. It has the charm of a collectible stuffed bunny, a handmade nursery gift, a baby shower gift, and a seasonal Valentine decor piece all in one. The finished set feels polished and giftable, like the kind of artisan rabbit doll people search for when shopping for keepsake toys, boutique knitted animals, and luxury handmade softies.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: sport-weight or light DK wool in warm ivory
• Dress and bonnet yarn: sport-weight or light DK in dusty rose
• Contrast skirt band yarn: ivory
• Leaf yarn: soft sage green
• Accent red yarn: deep berry red for shoes, purse, floral accents, and trim
• Petal drop yarn: white for the hanging lower flower tips
• Mini companion yarn: pale gray, dusty rose, ivory, a little red, and black
• Needles: set of double-pointed needles in sizes needed to create a very firm fabric, usually US 1.5 to US 3
• Optional straight needles: if you prefer knitting some clothing pieces flat
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Waste yarn
• Toy stuffing
• Black embroidery floss or fine black yarn for facial details
• Very small buttons: one tiny pale button for each shoe strap if desired
• Narrow floral ribbon or printed ribbon: for the neck tie under the bonnet

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge: Work tightly enough that stuffing does not show through. On most knitters, 28 to 32 stitches and 36 to 42 rounds over 4 inches in stockinette with light DK or sport-weight yarn will produce the right firmness.

Finished bunny size: about 12 to 14 inches tall seated, or about 15 to 16 inches from top of bonnet to bottom of feet when legs hang straight.

Mini companion size: about 2 1/2 to 3 inches tall.

Color Placement Summary

• Head, ears, arms, legs: ivory
• Dress upper body and skirt: dusty rose
• Lower skirt border: ivory with red and white flower motifs plus sage stems and leaves
• Cape: dusty rose with berry-red bobble edging
• Bonnet: dusty rose with sage leaf points around the outer edge
• Shoes: bright berry red with ivory socks visible above
• Bag: bright berry red heart shape with long strap
• Hand flower: sage stem with a berry-red and white bleeding-heart bloom
• Mini companion: gray body, dusty-rose hood and cape

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd = round
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• m1 = make 1 increase
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• BO = bind off
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• rep = repeat
• yo = yarn over
• i-cord = narrow knitted cord

Design Notes

This bunny is built to copy the look of the photographed doll as closely as possible. The body is long and softly rounded, with a head slightly wider than the neck, long gently flattened ears, slim arms, and rounded hanging legs ending in Mary Jane shoes.

The face is simple and calm. The eyes are very small black stitches set far apart. The nose and mouth form a delicate Y shape with soft muzzle shaping. The bonnet frames the head closely and sits low enough to hide the top of the forehead.

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The dress is the main visual feature. It has a smooth pink bodice, a fuller skirt, a wide ivory lower panel, and a repeating border of hanging bleeding-heart flowers. The stems travel in a curved garland, not a straight line.

The cape is short and round, ending just below the shoulders. It has a neat rolled look at the neck, soft shaping across the shoulders, and a line of tiny red bobbles at the lower edge. The bonnet has green leaf points all around the outer edge.

Main Bunny Body

Legs Make 2

Using ivory, CO 14 sts. Divide over needles and join carefully for working in the round.

1. Rnds 1 to 6: k all sts.
2. Rnd 7: inc evenly to 18 sts.
3. Rnds 8 to 28: k all sts.
4. Rnd 29: k1, m1, knit to last 1 st, m1, k1. 20 sts.
5. Rnds 30 to 38: k all sts.

Stuff the lower half lightly, keeping the ankle neat but not stiff. Flatten the top opening so the toes face forward. Put stitches on waste yarn. Make the second leg the same.

Joining the Legs

Place both legs on needles with toes facing the same direction. Using ivory, knit across one leg, CO 4 stitches for the crotch bridge, knit across second leg, CO 4 stitches. You now have 48 stitches total. Join for body.

1. Rnds 1 to 8: k all sts.
2. Rnd 9: inc 4 sts evenly. 52 sts.
3. Rnds 10 to 18: k all sts.
4. Rnd 19: inc 4 sts evenly. 56 sts.
5. Rnds 20 to 30: k all sts.

The lower body should be softly plump, not barrel-shaped. Add stuffing gradually as you go, pressing more into the seat and upper thighs, and keeping the front stomach smooth.

Torso and Neck

1. Rnd 31: k6, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k18, k2tog. 52 sts.
2. Rnds 32 to 36: k all sts.
3. Rnd 37: decrease evenly to 44 sts.
4. Rnds 38 to 42: k all sts.
5. Rnd 43: decrease evenly to 36 sts.
6. Rnds 44 to 48: k all sts.
7. Rnd 49: k2tog around. 18 sts.
8. Rnd 50: k all sts.

This narrow section forms the neck. Stuff the torso firmly enough to hold the dress well, but keep the neck compact and solid so the head does not wobble.

Head

Continue from the neck in ivory.

1. Rnd 1: kfb in every st. 36 sts.
2. Rnd 2: k all sts.
3. Rnd 3: inc evenly to 48 sts.
4. Rnd 4: k all sts.
5. Rnd 5: inc evenly to 60 sts.
6. Rnds 6 to 22: k all sts.

Begin stuffing the head firmly. The face in the photograph is smooth and slightly oval from front view, with a softly domed forehead and rounded cheeks. Shape by hand while stuffing, keeping the chin gentle rather than pointed.

1. Rnd 23: k8, k2tog around. 54 sts.
2. Rnd 24: k all sts.
3. Rnd 25: k7, k2tog around. 48 sts.
4. Rnd 26: k all sts.
5. Rnd 27: k6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
6. Rnd 28: k all sts.
7. Rnd 29: k5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
8. Rnd 30: k all sts.
9. Rnd 31: k4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
10. Rnd 32: k all sts.
11. Rnd 33: k3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
12. Rnd 34: k2tog around. 12 sts.

Finish stuffing firmly, pull yarn through remaining stitches, and close. Thread yarn through the top several times to flatten the crown just a little. The bonnet will cover this area, so a tidy but slightly flattened top is ideal.

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Muzzle Shaping

Using strong ivory yarn, insert the needle at the base of the neck and bring it out where the nose will sit. Make two small sculpting passes to form the rounded muzzle. Pull gently, never sharply, so the face stays soft.

The nose area in the image is not protruding like a long snout. It is a modest central bulge with a tiny split. Aim for a small triangle-like center, with cheeks on both sides and a very short vertical mouth stem.

Arms Make 2

Using ivory, CO 12 sts and join in the round.

1. Rnds 1 to 6: k all sts.
2. Rnd 7: inc evenly to 14 sts.
3. Rnds 8 to 30: k all sts.
4. Rnd 31: k2tog around. 7 sts.

Stuff only the lower two-thirds of each arm. The upper part should remain soft and flexible so the arms rest naturally downward, with one arm able to hold the flower stem. Pull yarn through remaining stitches and close.

Ears Make 2

Using ivory, CO 8 sts. Work flat.

1. Row 1 RS: k1, m1, knit to last 1 st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
2. Row 2 WS: p all sts.
3. Row 3 RS: k1, m1, knit to last 1 st, m1, k1. 12 sts.
4. Row 4 WS: p all sts.
5. Continue in this manner until 18 sts.
6. Work 22 rows in stockinette with no shaping.
7. Next RS row: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
8. WS row: p all sts.
9. Repeat these 2 rows until 8 sts remain.
10. Next RS row: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
11. WS row: p all sts.
12. Next RS row: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
13. BO.

Make a second ear. Seam the side edges lightly or leave flat if your fabric is stable. Steam very gently under cloth if needed. The ears should be long, narrow, softly tapered, and hang down below the bonnet edge.

Tail

The tail is mostly hidden by the dress, but adding it helps the body sit correctly.

Using ivory, CO 12 sts and work 8 rounds in stockinette. Thread yarn through live stitches, stuff lightly, close into a small puff, and sew low on the back body before dressing.

Head and Limb Assembly

Sew the arms level with the upper torso, slightly below the neck join. Angle them downward. Sew the ears to the sides of the head, not on the very top. The ear bases begin roughly one row behind the eye line and sit close to the bonnet opening.

Check the seated posture before finishing the arm seams. In the image, the bunny sits with both legs hanging forward, feet rounded, arms relaxed, and body upright. Adjust stuffing and seam tension until the silhouette feels balanced and calm.

Mary Jane Shoes Make 2

These are worked separately and sewn onto the feet for the neat red slipper look visible in the photo.

Using berry red, CO 14 sts and join.

1. Rnds 1 to 4: k all sts.
2. Rnd 5: inc evenly to 18 sts.
3. Rnds 6 to 10: k all sts.
4. Rnd 11: k6, k2tog 3 times, k6. 15 sts.
5. Rnd 12: k all sts.
6. Rnd 13: k5, k2tog 2 times, k6. 13 sts.
7. Rnd 14: k all sts.

Now create the instep opening.

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1. Work back and forth over 7 center stitches for 6 rows in stockinette.
2. Pick up side stitches and rejoin to round.
3. Knit 2 rounds.
4. Decrease evenly until the shoe hugs the foot.

For the strap, CO 10 sts and work a narrow garter tab. Sew each end to the shoe sides so a strip crosses the top of the foot. Add a tiny pale button to the outer side if desired. Slip the shoe onto the foot and sew invisibly in place.

The red shoes in the image are bright, rounded, and smooth. The strap is slim, not bulky. Leave a clear band of ivory above each shoe to imitate socks.

Dress

The dress is the most important garment in the set. It must sit as a smooth little empire-style dress with a gentle flare, then widen toward the hem. The lower cream panel needs enough depth to display the bleeding-heart border clearly.

Dress Bodice

Using dusty rose, CO 52 sts. Join in the round if preferred, or work flat with back seam. Working in the round gives the cleanest finish.

1. Rnds 1 to 8: k all sts.
2. Rnd 9: p all sts to create a subtle waist break.
3. Rnds 10 to 20: k all sts.
4. Rnd 21: inc 8 sts evenly. 60 sts.
5. Rnds 22 to 28: k all sts.
6. Rnd 29: inc 8 sts evenly. 68 sts.
7. Rnds 30 to 36: k all sts.
8. Rnd 37: inc 8 sts evenly. 76 sts.
9. Rnds 38 to 44: k all sts.
10. Rnd 45: change to ivory.

Skirt Lower Panel

1. Rnds 46 to 58: k all sts in ivory.

Do not bind off yet. The floral border is added before the final hem treatment so you can check placement and symmetry.

Bleeding-Heart Skirt Border

The photographed flowers look dimensional, with green stems and leaves sitting above the fabric and red heart blooms hanging down with white teardrop tips. The cleanest way to match this look is to combine knitted appliqué pieces with careful sewing.

Make 8 large red heart blooms, 8 small red side buds, 8 white petal drops, 16 sage leaves, and 2 long sage cords that curve across the skirt front and around each side.

Large Red Heart Bloom Make 8

Using berry red, CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: k.
2. Row 2: p.
3. Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 4: p.
5. Row 5: k1, m1, k1, m1, k1, m1, k1. 8 sts.
6. Row 6: p.
7. Row 7: k.
8. Row 8: p.
9. Row 9: k2tog, k4, ssk. 6 sts.
10. Row 10: p.
11. Row 11: k2tog, k2, ssk. 4 sts.
12. Row 12: p.
13. Row 13: slip 1, k2tog, psso. 2 sts.
14. Row 14: p2tog.

This tiny piece forms a compact heart-like drop. Fold the top corners inward very slightly while sewing to strengthen the heart shape.

Small Red Side Bud Make 8

Using berry red, CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: k.
2. Row 2: p.
3. Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Rows 4 and 5: work in stockinette.
5. Row 6: k2tog, k1, ssk. 3 sts.
6. Row 7: p.
7. Row 8: slip 1, k2tog, psso. 1 st.

Fasten off. Shape into a small side bud.

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White Petal Drops Make 8

Using white, CO 2 sts.

1. Row 1: kfb, kfb. 4 sts.
2. Row 2: p.
3. Row 3: k2tog, k2tog. 2 sts.
4. Row 4: p2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Each piece should read like a small teardrop hanging below the red bloom.

Sage Leaves Make 16

Using sage green, CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: k.
2. Row 2: p.
3. Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 4: p.
5. Row 5: k1, m1, k1, m1, k1, m1, k1. 8 sts.
6. Row 6: p.
7. Row 7: k2tog, k4, ssk. 6 sts.
8. Row 8: p.
9. Row 9: k2tog, k2, ssk. 4 sts.
10. Row 10: p.
11. Row 11: slip 1, k2tog, psso. 2 sts.
12. Row 12: p2tog. 1 st.

Make each leaf slightly pointed and press flat under a cloth if needed.

Sage Stems

Work 2 long i-cords in sage, each about 8 to 9 inches long. Steam lightly and curve them into mirrored garlands. These represent the draping vine line across the lower skirt.

Applying the Border

Lay the dress flat. Mark the center front. Position the two sage cords so they meet in a shallow V at center front, then sweep upward slightly toward each side. The line should sit in the upper part of the ivory band, not near the hem.

Sew four large red blooms along each side of the curve, hanging downward. Add one white drop beneath each main bloom. Add the small red side buds near selected joints so the design feels full, but not crowded.

Place the sage leaves in pairs where the stems fork. Angle the leaves outward and slightly upward. This matters a lot, because the photographed skirt border has a delicate botanical rhythm rather than a rigid repeated stripe.

Once the appliqué is complete, return to the live hem stitches and work 4 rounds in dusty rose. Then work 6 rounds in garter in the round by alternating 1 round knit and 1 round purl, or work a garter-look hem flat if you prefer. BO loosely.

The finished hem should roll only a little and appear softly cushioned, like the rounded edge in the image.

Cape

The cape is short, round, and sits above the bodice. It opens at the front and curves gently downward at the sides. The lower edge is decorated with tiny red bobbles spaced evenly.

Using dusty rose, CO 60 sts and work flat.

1. Rows 1 to 4: knit every row.
2. Row 5 RS: k all sts.
3. Row 6 WS: p all sts.
4. Repeat these 2 rows for 14 more rows.

Now shape the shoulder curve.

1. Next RS row: k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
2. WS row: p all sts.
3. Repeat these 2 rows 6 times total. 48 sts.
4. Work 4 rows even.

For the neck edge, work 4 rows garter. BO loosely.

Sew a short seam only at the upper neck if needed, or leave open and gather slightly around the neckline to sit snugly.

Red Bobble Edge

Using berry red, pick up stitches around the lower outer edge only. Work one edging row as follows:

k2, make a tiny bobble in next st, k4, rep across edge. A tiny bobble can be made by knitting into front, back, and front of one stitch, turning, p3, turning, k3tog. Keep them small. The photo shows tidy rounded berry points, not oversized pompoms.

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Bonnet

The bonnet is close-fitting and rounded, covering the crown and sides of the head while leaving the face fully visible. It has a dusty-rose body and a ring of sage leaf points framing the outer edge.

Using dusty rose, CO 14 sts and work flat in garter for 2 rows.

1. Row 3 RS: k1, m1, knit to last 1 st, m1, k1.
2. Row 4 WS: knit.
3. Repeat these 2 rows until you have 32 sts.
4. Work 24 rows even in stockinette, with a 3-stitch garter border at each side.

Shape the crown.

1. RS row: k3, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3.
2. WS row: knit border stitches and purl center section.
3. Repeat these 2 rows until 20 sts remain.
4. Work 2 rows even.
5. BO.

Fold bonnet in half and seam the back. Fit to the head. The opening should frame the face closely and sit a little below the top of the forehead.

Leaf Points for Bonnet Make 10 to 12

Using sage, CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: k.
2. Row 2: p.
3. Row 3: kfb in each st. 6 sts.
4. Row 4: p.
5. Row 5: k.
6. Row 6: p.
7. Row 7: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
8. Row 8: p.
9. Row 9: slip 1, k2tog, psso. 2 sts.
10. Row 10: p2tog. 1 st.

Sew the leaf points around the bonnet opening edge, overlapping slightly at the base so they form a leafy scalloped halo. Their tips should point outward, not upward. This green framing is one of the most distinctive details in the image.

Bonnet Ties

Make two dusty-rose i-cords, each about 6 inches long, or use the floral ribbon shown in the photo. If using ribbon, sew it neatly to the lower bonnet edges after fitting the bonnet to the head.

Heart-Shaped Shoulder Bag

The bag is small, bright red, and hangs diagonally across the front of the bunny from one shoulder to the opposite hip.

Make 2 heart pieces using berry red.

CO 3 sts and work flat.

1. Row 1: k.
2. Row 2: p.
3. Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 4: p.
5. Row 5: k1, m1, k1, m1, k1, m1, k1. 8 sts.
6. Row 6: p.
7. Row 7: k1, m1, knit to last 1 st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
8. Rows 8 to 12: work in stockinette.

Now shape the two upper lobes by working each half separately or by using centered decreases. Form a classic plump heart shape, then decrease to a point at the bottom. Make a second identical piece.

Sew both heart pieces together with light stuffing inside. Add a long i-cord strap, about 11 to 12 inches, and place it diagonally from the bunny’s left shoulder to the right side of the skirt.

Handheld Bleeding-Heart Flower

This is a small but important accent. It sits in the bunny’s left hand and echoes the skirt motif.

Work a sage i-cord about 3 inches long for the stem. Add one small leaf near the lower half and one near the top. Use the same leaf pattern as the skirt leaves, but stop one row earlier for a slightly smaller size.

For the flower head, make one large red bloom and one white drop as described for the skirt border, but use a slightly shorter lower point so the flower looks compact. Sew the white drop under the red bloom. Attach to the top of the stem, then tack the stem gently into the bunny’s hand.

Mini Woodland Companion

The tiny companion in the photo reads like a little hedgehog or woodland creature dressed to match. Its body is round and gray, with a pale face area, tiny black eyes, a dusty-rose hood, and a small cape. Keep it compact and palm-sized.

Mini Body

Using pale gray, CO 12 sts and join.

1. Rnd 1: k all sts.
2. Rnd 2: kfb around. 24 sts.
3. Rnds 3 to 8: k all sts.
4. Rnd 9: inc evenly to 30 sts.
5. Rnds 10 to 16: k all sts.

For a lighter face panel, work 8 center front stitches in ivory for 6 rounds while keeping the rest gray, or embroider a pale muzzle area afterward if you prefer a smoother finish.

1. Rnd 17: k3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
2. Rnd 18: k all sts.
3. Rnd 19: k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 20: k all sts.
5. Rnd 21: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.

Stuff firmly and close.

Mini Feet Make 2

Using gray, CO 6 sts and work 4 rounds. Stuff lightly and sew at the bottom front.

Mini Arms Make 2

Using gray, CO 5 sts and work 5 rounds. Close and sew at the body sides.

Mini Hood

Using dusty rose, CO 16 sts and work flat.

1. Rows 1 to 10: stockinette with 2-stitch garter borders.
2. Rows 11 to 16: decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row.
3. BO.

Seam the back and fit to the head.

Mini Cape

Using dusty rose, CO 22 sts and work 8 rows in stockinette with 2 garter border stitches each side. Add 1 row of tiny red bobbles or simple red seed-stitch dots along the lower edge if desired. Sew around the neck.

Facial Embroidery Placement

The bunny’s face must stay minimal. Over-detailing will change the character completely. Use only very small black eye stitches and a tiny, softly branched nose and mouth in matching ivory or pale taupe.

• Eyes: place two tiny black French-knot-style stitches or satin stitches about 10 to 12 stitches apart, centered slightly below the middle of the face opening
• Nose: embroider a short inverted triangle or tiny satin cluster in ivory-taupe
• Mouth: bring one stitch down from the nose point, then split into two short angled stitches

For the mini companion, use even smaller black stitches for eyes and a tiny black nose only. The expression should remain quiet and sweet.

Putting the Outfit On

Dress the bunny before fixing the bag and flower permanently. Slide the dress on from the feet upward. Ease it over the hips, then settle the bodice high on the torso. The hem should fall around the lower legs, stopping above the shoes.

Place the cape over the shoulders so it sits just above the widest point of the skirt. Fit the bonnet snugly and tie the floral ribbon softly beneath the chin. Let the long ears fall behind the bonnet edge and down the sides.

Add the red heart bag across the chest. Attach it lightly at the shoulder and hip so it stays in the correct diagonal line. Finally, position the bleeding-heart flower in the left hand and tack it invisibly into place.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew every clothing piece securely but lightly enough that the doll keeps a soft drape. Check that the bonnet frames the face evenly, the cape lies flat, and the skirt motifs sit centered at the front.

Embroider the face last. Add the eyes first, then the small nose, then the Y-shaped mouth. Pull each stitch gently so the expression stays tender. Steam only the garments if needed, never the stuffed face directly.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from strong sunlight
• Handle the skirt appliqué and bonnet leaves gently
• Avoid hanging the bunny by the bag strap
• Keep away from rough surfaces that may catch the knitted fabric

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Body proportion looks long and softly rounded
• Head is slightly wider than the neck and well stuffed
• Ears hang low and narrow
• Dress border forms a curved garland of bleeding-heart flowers
• Cape has evenly spaced red bobbles
• Bonnet has a full ring of sage leaf points
• Red shoes are smooth, rounded, and secure
• Heart bag sits diagonally across the body
• Mini companion matches the main palette

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Blot rather than rub, especially on the red areas. Let the piece air dry flat on a towel and reshape the bonnet leaves, cape edge, and skirt motifs while damp.

For long-term storage, wrap the bunny in acid-free tissue and place it in a breathable cotton bag. Do not seal it in plastic for extended periods. Store flat or seated, with the ears and bonnet leaves arranged neatly to prevent hard creases.