Hollyhock Sugar-Arch Bunny – Knitting

This sweet heirloom bunny set is designed to look like a boutique collectible with soft luxury details, a flowered pink dress, a leafy beret, tiny Mary Jane shoes, a knit crossbody bag, a floral cloth, a miniature hooded bunny, and a slim flower crown. It is ideal for knit toy lovers searching for handmade bunny doll decor, nursery gift ideas, collectible stuffed rabbit patterns, spring bunny set designs, and artisan-style knitted animal accessories. The finished set feels polished, charming, and gift-worthy while still staying friendly for careful beginners who enjoy shaping, seaming, and decorative finishing.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates the full scene shown in the image: one standing bunny doll with long ears, a pale green beret with leaf trim, a white Peter Pan collar, a pink embroidered pinafore dress, beige shoes, a tan shoulder bag, a small floral cloth, a tiny hooded bunny companion, and a separate flower garland.

The proportions matter a great deal in this design. The main bunny has a large softly rounded head, a gently tapered muzzle, narrow shoulders, rounded upper arms, a slim torso hidden by the dress, slightly weighted feet, and long relaxed ears that hang straight down from the sides of the head.

The outfit is just as important as the bunny. The dress sits high on the chest with a ribbed bodice, softly gathered skirt, and a shallow curved hem. Vertical floral groups are placed across the front and sides so the finished dress looks balanced from every viewing angle.

The accessories should remain delicate. None of them should overpower the bunny. The beret is soft and slightly oversized, the bag is flat and minimal, the cloth is simple with a floral border, the tiny bunny is slim and upright, and the flower garland is narrow and light.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: fingering or light sport weight wool or wool blend in warm cream
• Dress yarn: fingering or light sport weight in dusty blush pink
• Beret yarn: fingering or light sport weight in pale sage green
• Shoes and bag yarn: fingering or light sport weight in oatmeal beige
• Mini bunny hood yarn: fingering weight in rose pink
• Embroidery yarn: small amounts of dark rose, medium rose, pale pink, olive, moss, and leaf green
• Needles: US 1 to US 2 double-point needles or magic loop for the toy parts, plus one size larger for the beret if needed
• Extras: toy stuffing, tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn, small snap or tiny button for the bag, black thread for eyes, matching sewing thread

Gauge and Finished Size

Work at a firm toy gauge so the stuffing does not show. On small needles, aim for a dense stockinette fabric that feels smooth and even. A looser fabric will make the face less refined and the arms less sculpted.

• Main bunny height: about 11 to 12 inches tall from foot sole to top of head, not including beret
• Mini bunny height: about 3 inches tall
• Bag width: about 3 inches
• Floral cloth: about 3 by 3 inches
• Flower garland: about 4 inches long

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• Kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
• K2tog = knit 2 together
• SSK = slip, slip, knit
• BO = bind off
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• Rep = repeat
• pm = place marker

Design Notes

The image shows a refined handmade finish rather than a rustic one. Keep your knitting smooth, your stuffing gentle, and your shaping gradual. Avoid overstuffing the head and dress. The main appeal comes from the soft silhouette, tiny face, and carefully placed floral work.

The face should be minimal. The eyes are small black dots placed fairly wide apart. The nose is softly raised by shaping and light embroidery, and the mouth is a short split line under the nose. Do not enlarge the muzzle or over-embroider the features.

The ears should be long, narrow, and lightly stuffed only at the top. The lower length stays flat so the ears fall naturally. The shoulders are rounded and slightly puffy because the sleeves cover the top of the arms and create a soft transition from collar to dress.

Main Bunny Legs

Make 2 in cream. Start at the sole so the feet can be shaped first. The feet in the image are compact from front to back and slightly wider than the ankles. The legs above them are slim and straight.

1. CO 10 stitches.
2. Work 1 row P.
3. Increase across next RS row to 16 stitches by working Kfb in every other stitch.
4. Work 5 rows in St st.
5. Shape foot: K1, Kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, Kfb, K1. Work this increase row every other row 2 more times. You now have 22 stitches.
6. Work 4 rows even.
7. Begin sole turn by working short rows or a simple decrease shape: K6, K2tog, K2tog, turn. P4, P2tog, P2tog, turn. Continue until side stitches are used and center section forms a gentle rounded foot.
8. Pick up side stitches if needed and return to 18 stitches total.
9. Work 8 rounds or rows even for the ankle and lower leg.
10. Decrease 2 stitches evenly to 16 stitches.
11. Work straight until leg measures about 3 1/4 inches from the back of heel.
12. BO loosely if knitting flat, leaving a long tail for joining to body. If knitting in the round, place stitches on waste yarn.

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Stuff the foot firmly but keep the leg softly stuffed. The bottom should feel stable so the doll can stand with support. Do not make the feet too long. The image shows neat little oval feet with only modest projection beyond the dress hem.

Main Bunny Body

The body is narrow and simple because the dress covers most of it. It should support the head cleanly without creating a thick waist. Join the legs at the top and work the torso upward in cream.

1. Set both legs on the needles with 4 stitches cast on between them for the center body. Total 36 stitches.
2. Work 6 rows even.
3. Decrease 2 stitches evenly on the next RS row.
4. Work 6 rows even.
5. Decrease 2 stitches evenly again. You have 32 stitches.
6. Work until the body measures about 2 1/4 inches above the leg join.
7. Increase 2 stitches evenly for upper body softness.
8. Work 4 rows even.
9. Divide for arm openings if knitting flat, or mark shoulder points if knitting in the round.
10. Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at each side every other row 3 times. End with about 22 stitches for the neck opening.
11. Leave live stitches or BO loosely.

Stuff the lower body lightly and the chest only enough to prevent collapse. The torso should not bulge. The dress in the image falls smoothly from the chest, so a slim understructure gives the right result.

Main Bunny Arms

Make 2 in cream. The arms are straight at the lower section and fuller at the upper section. The shoulder line should appear rounded once the puff sleeves are added over them.

1. CO 10 stitches.
2. Work 8 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of next RS row. Repeat every 6th row twice more. You now have 16 stitches.
4. Work until arm measures about 3 inches.
5. Shape top: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1 on RS rows, and purl WS rows, until 8 stitches remain.
6. BO.

Sew the arm seam neatly. Stuff the lower arm lightly. Leave the upper 1 inch almost unstuffed so the arm can be flattened into the shoulder area and sit softly against the dress.

Main Bunny Head

The head is the key to the whole design. It is softly round with a gentle chin, a subtle muzzle, and a smooth crown. It must not be too tall. In the image, the head is broad and calm, with the beret sitting low over the forehead.

1. CO 14 stitches in cream.
2. Work 1 row P.
3. Increase evenly across RS row to 22 stitches.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Increase 1 stitch at each end every RS row 6 times, and increase 4 center stitches every other RS row 4 times. Aim for 42 stitches.
6. Work 18 rows even in St st.
7. Shape muzzle subtly by working 2 short rows across the center front section only. This gives a slight nose projection without making a sharp snout.
8. Work 4 rows even.
9. Begin crown shaping: decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row 6 times, then decrease 4 stitches evenly every other row until 14 stitches remain.
10. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close firmly.

Sew the back seam if worked flat. Stuff very evenly, adding small amounts at a time. Press the muzzle area outward with your fingers before closing. The cheeks should be softly full, not heavily rounded.

Main Bunny Ears

Make 2 in cream. The ears are long and narrow with rounded tips. They are not wired and do not stand up. They hang from the head just behind the face line and extend to around the upper chest.

1. CO 8 stitches.
2. Work in St st for 6 rows.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 3 times. You have 14 stitches.
4. Work straight until ear measures about 4 1/2 inches.
5. Shape tip: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1 on every RS row until 6 stitches remain.
6. Decrease again to 2 stitches and BO.

Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly with the seam centered at the back. Stuff only the top 3/4 inch if desired. The rest should remain flat. This helps the ears drape exactly like the image.

Head and Body Joining

Attach the head firmly to the neck opening. Add extra stuffing at the neck base before closing. The head should sit upright and centered, with only a gentle forward tilt. Sew the ears after the head is attached so their position can be balanced against the beret and collar.

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Place the ears low enough that the top edge hides under the beret. The front edge of each ear should begin slightly behind the eye line. Let the ears fall straight down close to the cheeks without flaring outward too much.

Facial Sculpting Base

Before embroidering the face, lightly shape the muzzle with a long thread. Pass the thread through the head to define a tiny center nose ridge and a shallow mouth dip. Keep this subtle. The image shows a gentle handmade face, not a cartoon expression.

• Eye placement: about 8 to 9 stitches apart, slightly above the midpoint of the muzzle
• Nose placement: centered, low on the muzzle
• Mouth: one short vertical stitch and two tiny angled stitches below it

Peter Pan Collar

Work in cream. This collar is soft, broad, and rounded, sitting over the dress straps. It should frame the head and shoulders cleanly without standing stiffly away from the neck.

1. CO 40 stitches.
2. Work 2 rows garter.
3. Divide into two equal collar halves with a center marker.
4. Work short rows or shaped decreases at the outer edges to create rounded points.
5. Continue until each side curves gently downward to a rounded end.
6. BO loosely.

Sew the collar around the neck so the front points overlap slightly at the center chest. The back should lie flat. Avoid making the collar too large. In the image, it is noticeable but still delicate.

Pink Dress Bodice

The dress is worked separately in dusty pink and then placed onto the bunny. It has a high waist, broad straps, and a deeply ribbed bodice section that gives the front its vertical texture.

1. CO 56 stitches.
2. Work 4 rows garter for the lower edging if knitting from hem upward, or save edging for the end if working top down.
3. Switch to St st and increase evenly across the skirt over 1 or 2 rows to 68 stitches for gentle width.
4. Work straight until skirt section measures about 2 inches.
5. Decrease evenly back to 48 stitches.
6. Work ribbed bodice: K2, P2 across for 12 rows. This creates the strong vertical lines seen in the image.
7. Divide for front and back bib sections.
8. Shape arm openings by binding off 3 stitches at each side once, then decreasing 1 stitch each side twice.
9. Work front straight to chest height, then create straps by working outer sections only, each about 6 stitches wide.
10. Make straps long enough to pass over the shoulders and attach at the back.

The dress should not fit tightly. It should skim the bunny, especially at the skirt. The front bib sits just under the collar. The side openings reveal the cream bunny body and the rounded arm tops.

Dress Embroidery Layout

The hollyhock-style flowers are arranged in slim upward-growing groups. Use duplicate stitch, tiny satin stitches, straight stitches, or a neat hybrid of embroidery over knitting. Keep the stems vertical and the blooms small.

On the front of the skirt, place three main floral columns. Add partial columns at the side seams. The center front should remain balanced, with blossoms rising upward and leaves branching out gently.

• Stem color: olive green
• Leaf colors: moss and leaf green
• Flower colors: dark rose, medium rose, pale pink
• Flower centers: tiny pale knots or one small contrasting stitch

Begin each stem about 5 or 6 rows above the hem and work upward. Place larger dark rose blooms toward the lower and middle areas, then pale pink blooms higher up. This mirrors the look of upright cottage-garden flowers.

Do not scatter the flowers randomly. The image has vertical order and symmetry. Even though each cluster feels natural, the overall spacing is tidy and intentional. That balance gives the dress its boutique finish.

Dress Hem Finish

The lower edge looks neat and lightly defined. A simple garter or narrow rolled edge works well. After embroidery is complete, lightly steam from the wrong side or press with a cloth so the skirt falls smoothly without flattening the flower details.

Puff Sleeve Caps

The image shows very soft little white sleeve puffs at the shoulder line. These can be made as tiny gathered caps rather than full sleeves. They should only cover the very top of the arms.

1. CO 18 stitches in cream for each sleeve cap.
2. Work 4 rows in St st.
3. Work one eyelet or gathered row if desired: K2tog, yo across in a very controlled way, or simply run a gathering thread through the top edge later.
4. Work 2 more rows.
5. BO loosely.

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Gather each cap slightly and sew over the top of the arm where it joins the body. Keep the puff soft and small. It should peek out from under the dress edge rather than dominate the shoulder.

Beret

The beret is pale sage green, soft, lightly slouchy, and worn low on the head. It is not oversized like a fashion beret. It sits snugly around the forehead and then relaxes outward at the crown.

1. CO 56 stitches in pale sage.
2. Work 6 rounds or rows in K1, P1 rib for the band.
3. Increase evenly to 84 stitches.
4. Work 16 rounds even in St st.
5. Begin crown shaping with 6 evenly spaced decrease points: K12, K2tog around.
6. Work 1 round even.
7. Decrease at the same points every other round until 12 stitches remain.
8. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close.

To match the image, lightly tack the band so it sits low and smooth. The crown should lean gently to one side. Avoid a high puffed dome. The shape should feel relaxed, soft, and tidy.

Beret Decorative Leaf Trim

The front of the beret has a stitched vine and a cluster of knitted leaves on one side. This detail is essential to the final look. Use olive green or slightly deeper green than the beret for contrast.

1. Embroider a simple running vine across the front band area using small horizontal stitches.
2. Make 3 leaves. For each leaf, CO 3 stitches.
3. Row 1: Kfb, K1, Kfb.
4. Row 2: P.
5. Row 3: K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1.
6. Continue increasing at inner leaf points to about 9 stitches, then decrease symmetrically to 3 stitches.
7. BO and shape into pointed leaves.

Sew the three leaves in a small overlapping cluster at the right front side of the beret. Add one tiny separate leaf near the cluster if you want the same layered look seen in the image.

Shoes

The shoes are beige Mary Jane style with rounded toes and a single strap effect. They look snug and smooth, not bulky. Make 2 and sew them directly over the finished feet.

1. CO 12 stitches in beige.
2. Work sole and upper similar to the foot method, shaping a rounded toe.
3. After forming the upper, leave an opening across the instep.
4. Make a narrow strap of 4 stitches, long enough to cross the foot.
5. Attach strap at each side.

If preferred, knit the shoe covers flat and seam them over the feet. The important detail is the clean rounded toe and the visible strap across the front. The shoe should expose a little cream “sock” area at the opening.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is a flat oatmeal rectangle with a flap and a long slender strap. It should look softly structured and not oversized. It sits on the table in the image, but it can also be worn by the bunny.

1. CO 22 stitches in beige.
2. Work 18 rows in St st for the front.
3. Work 18 rows more for the back plus flap extension.
4. Shape the flap by decreasing 1 stitch at each side every other row until 14 stitches remain.
5. Work 6 rows even, then BO with a slightly rounded edge.
6. Sew side seams for the bag body.
7. Make strap: work an i-cord or narrow strip about 14 inches long and attach at side corners.

Add a tiny button, embroidered knot, or snap at the center flap. Keep it understated. The bag in the image is plain and elegant, allowing the flowered dress to remain the focal point.

Floral Cloth

This small square cloth is cream with a floral border near one edge. It can be styled as a handkerchief, tiny blanket, or folded accessory. The knitting is very simple so the embroidery can stand out.

1. CO 20 stitches in cream.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Work 18 rows in St st with 2 garter stitches at each edge to prevent rolling.
4. Work 4 rows garter.
5. BO.

Embroider one row of small pink flowers with green leaves near one lower edge. Use the same palette as the dress so the accessories feel like a coordinated set. Keep the border slim and delicate.

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Mini Hooded Bunny

This tiny companion bunny is cream with a rose pink hood tied under the chin. The body is pear-shaped, the ears are very short compared with the main bunny, and the face is tiny and calm.

Mini Body and Head

1. CO 8 stitches in cream.
2. Increase gradually to 18 stitches over the first few rows to form the lower body.
3. Work 8 rows even.
4. Decrease to 14 stitches for the neck.
5. Increase again to 20 stitches for the head.
6. Work 8 rows even.
7. Decrease gradually to 6 stitches, thread yarn through, and close.

Stuff lightly. This tiny bunny should stay slim. The head should blend gently into the body rather than forming a strong separate neck.

Mini Arms and Legs

• Arms: make 2 tiny tubes or flat pieces about 1 inch long and sew to the sides
• Legs: make 2 short nubs or shape the lower body with two small feet using simple embroidery and a seam split

Mini Ears

1. CO 4 stitches in cream.
2. Work 6 rows St st.
3. Decrease to a rounded tip.
4. Make 2 and sew close together on the head.

Mini Hood

1. CO 18 stitches in rose pink.
2. Work 10 rows in St st.
3. Fold in half and seam the top back edge to form a hood.
4. Add 2 narrow ties, each about 4 inches long.

Place the hood low around the face opening and tie gently under the chin. The mini bunny should look very small beside the main bunny, reinforcing the storybook quality of the whole set.

Flower Garland

This narrow accessory is a slim cord with clustered flowers and leaves in the middle. It can be styled as a crown, sash, bag trim, or tiny decorative vine.

1. Make a cord about 8 inches long using i-cord, crochet chain, or twisted yarn.
2. Knit or embroider 3 flowers in shades of dark rose, medium rose, and pale pink.
3. Make 3 to 4 small green leaves.
4. Attach flowers and leaves near the center section of the cord.

The flowers should remain flat and compact. A large garland will look too heavy. In the image, it reads as a sweet, light finishing piece rather than a major accessory.

Color Placement Summary

• Cream: main bunny, collar, cloth base, mini bunny
• Dusty pink: dress, mini hood, some flowers
• Pale sage: beret
• Beige: shoes, bag, flower garland cord
• Greens: beret leaves, floral stems and leaves

Assembly Order

1. Finish legs and body.
2. Sew and stuff arms.
3. Make, stuff, and shape head.
4. Attach head to body.
5. Attach ears.
6. Add face sculpting and facial embroidery.
7. Sew on collar.
8. Knit and embroider dress, then fit and sew in place.
9. Add puff sleeve caps.
10. Knit beret, decorate, and tack onto head.
11. Add shoes.
12. Make bag, cloth, mini bunny, and flower garland.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Place the eyes first and check symmetry from the front and slightly above. The nose should sit low and centered with a soft triangular suggestion rather than a bold stitched triangle. Use only a few mouth stitches so the expression stays calm and tender.

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Sew the dress so it lies smooth at the bib and gently flares over the lower body. Attach the beret after the face is complete. Let it cover the top ear joins and sit slightly angled. Arrange the accessories around the bunny for the same storybook display.

Care Notes

Handle the finished set gently, especially the embroidered flowers and tiny accessories. Light steaming is fine before final display, but avoid direct high heat on stuffed pieces. Store the set away from sharp objects that could snag the knitted surface.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head rounded and centered
• Ears long, flat, and hanging evenly
• Eyes small and widely balanced
• Collar soft and symmetrical
• Dress bib high on the chest
• Flower columns evenly spaced
• Beret low and slightly slouched
• Shoes snug with visible straps
• Bag flat and minimal
• Mini bunny small enough beside the main doll

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Do not soak if the toy has embroidered details or mixed yarn types. Blot moisture gently with a towel and reshape while damp. Dry flat away from direct sun.

For long-term storage, wrap the bunny and accessories in clean tissue and keep them in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags for extended storage. If needed, add a lavender sachet or cedar nearby, but do not let it touch the knitted fabric directly.