This elegant knitted bunny set is designed with a soft heirloom look, featuring a long-eared rabbit in a pearl dress, a sea-holly embroidered cape, a slouchy beret, neat shoes, a tiny striped bag, a small wicker-style flower basket, loose sea holly stems, and a miniature squirrel friend. It has the charm of a collectible stuffed rabbit, a handmade nursery doll, and a boutique knitted animal gift. If you love shopping for luxury knitted toys, artisan rabbit dolls, or seasonal handmade décor inspiration, this design brings that same refined feel into your own making.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Overview
This design creates a standing bunny with a calm, balanced shape and a gently old-fashioned wardrobe. The head is rounded but slightly longer than a simple sphere. The ears are narrow, soft, and long enough to fall from beneath the beret to the shoulder line.
The body is dressed in a simple pearl-colored gown with a faintly flared skirt. Over the dress sits a short blue-green capelet, worked flat and edged neatly, then decorated with stitched sea holly flowers, leaves, and winding stems.
A soft beret crowns the head and sits low across the forehead. The shoes are rounded and shallow, like simple walking shoes. Around the bunny are several matching accessories that complete the scene and should not be skipped if you want the set to match the image closely.
Finished main bunny size: about 12 inches tall from feet to top of beret, using fingering to sport weight yarn and small double-pointed needles.
Mini squirrel size: about 4 inches tall.
Scale note: the bag reaches around the bunny’s lower arm, and the flower basket is slightly shorter than the shoes.
Materials
- Main bunny yarn: light beige or warm oatmeal for head, ears, arms, legs, and shoes
- Dress yarn: soft pearl or cream
- Cape and beret yarn: muted sea-glass blue-green
- Embroidery yarn: dusty blue, soft sage, moss green, pale green, and a touch of cream
- Squirrel yarn: warm chestnut, cream, moss green, and brown
- Bag yarn: blue-green in two close shades for subtle striping
- Basket yarn: sandy beige or wicker tan
- Flower filling colors: blue, pale blue, cream, golden yellow, and green
- Needles: US 1 to 2 for small circular knitting or double-pointed knitting, plus one size larger for the beret if desired
- Tapestry needle
- Small sharp embroidery needle
- Black embroidery floss or dark brown thread
- Toy stuffing
- Lightweight floral wire for sea holly stems if you want shaped accessories
- Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for the soles if you want firmer shoes
Gauge and Fabric Notes
The fabric in the image is smooth, dense, and even. Knit tightly enough that stuffing does not show through. For the toy parts, choose a needle size smaller than you would normally use for the yarn.
The dress should drape softly without looking loose. The cape should hold its shape but still curve around the shoulders. The beret should look supple and slightly puffy rather than stiff.
If your stitches look open, go down a needle size. If the bunny becomes too rigid and difficult to shape, go up half a size. Consistency matters more than exact row count, because the charm of the set comes from proportion and finishing.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- ssk and k2tog are used for balanced shaping
- st st = stockinette stitch
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- BO = bind off
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
Main Bunny Construction Order
- Knit the legs and feet.
- Join into the lower body and continue the torso.
- Knit the head separately or continue upward if preferred.
- Knit the ears and arms.
- Knit the dress, collar, cape, beret, and shoes.
- Assemble the bunny carefully.
- Make the accessories and mini squirrel.
- Add embroidery and final facial details last.
Legs and Feet
Each leg begins at the sole and is shaped to create a flat-bottomed foot. The foot in the image is modest and rounded, not oversized. The ankle is narrow and straight, and the leg remains slim because the dress covers most of it.
Using beige, CO 10 sts. Work back and forth in st st for 4 rows, keeping the edge firm. Increase 1 st at each end of the next 2 RS rows. You now have 14 sts.
Work 6 more rows even. This forms the length of the sole. To build the upper foot, pick up and knit evenly around the sole edges onto double-pointed needles, distributing the sts so the toe area receives slightly more stitches than the heel.
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Work 3 rounds in knit. Begin toe shaping by working paired decreases at the front every other round until the foot looks softly rounded rather than pointed. Stuff the toe lightly.
Continue straight for the ankle for about 10 to 12 rounds. Stuff the foot firmly and the ankle only lightly. Make 2 identical legs. The legs should stand parallel with a small gap between them once joined.
Lower Body and Torso
Join the two legs onto one needle with a small bridge of 4 stitches between them. The pelvis area should be narrow and gentle. This bunny has a dress silhouette, so the inner body does not need wide hips.
Work in the round for 8 rounds even. On the next round, increase evenly across the front and back to shape the lower torso. Work straight for several rounds, then add another light increase round so the body becomes softly pear-shaped.
The bunny in the image has a calm, elongated body that narrows slightly under the arms. To achieve that, work 6 to 8 rounds even, then decrease evenly over 2 shaping rounds separated by plain rounds.
Stuff the torso gradually as you knit. The lower body should feel stable and compact. The upper body should be softer, because the dress falls from the shoulder and you do not want the figure to look barrel-shaped beneath the clothing.
End the torso at the underarm line. Leave a long tail if you plan to sew the head on separately. If you prefer a one-piece structure, continue directly into the neck by decreasing evenly to a narrower stitch count.
Head
The head is one of the most important details in this design. It is not a perfect ball. Instead, it has a rounded crown, gentle cheeks, a softly tapered muzzle area, and a slightly flattened face plane where the eyes and nose are placed.
Using beige, start at the crown with a magic loop or preferred small-circumference cast-on. Increase evenly over several rounds until the head reaches the widest point, which should look a little wider than the torso but still elegant and restrained.
Work several rounds even. At this stage, the head should look like a smooth oval sphere. Add a very subtle wedge of short-row shaping or extra stitches at the front if you like a fuller muzzle.
Continue knitting straight until the lower face depth is reached. Then begin decreases very gradually. Before closing, stuff firmly but do not overfill. The cheeks should stay smooth and softly full, not hard.
Close the remaining stitches and use the tail to sculpt the face. Make one shallow horizontal draw across the nose area to create the slight muzzle ridge visible in the image. Do not over-sculpt, because the face remains simple and gentle.
Ears
The ears are long, narrow, softly rounded, and hang straight downward with only a slight outward angle. They are not thickly stuffed. Their softness helps them drape under the beret and along the cape.
For each ear, CO a narrow number of stitches in beige and work flat in st st with a slipped edge for neat finishing. Increase gently near the base over the first third of the ear so the top remains slender while the lower section gains a little width.
Work even for the main length. Begin shaping the tip with paired decreases every RS row until a softly curved point forms. Sew the side seams if worked flat, then turn and press lightly with fingers.
Stuff only the bottom inch very lightly, or leave entirely unstuffed. Fold the base slightly before attaching so the ear hangs with a natural root and does not stick straight out from the head.
Arms
The arms are short, slim, and mostly hidden by the cape. They hang close to the sides and end in rounded paws without separate fingers. Their scale should look delicate compared with the body.
Using beige, CO a small number of stitches and work in the round. Increase once or twice near the paw if needed, then knit straight. The arm should taper very slightly toward the shoulder.
Stuff the lower half lightly, leaving the upper section soft so it can sit naturally beneath the cape. Close the top flat for sewing. Make 2 arms and pin them low enough that the cape edge covers the shoulder seam.
Pearl Dress
The dress is plain, clean, and quietly elegant. It has a smooth bodice, a subtle waist transition, and a skirt that widens gently toward the hem. The hem is simple and neat, without lace or heavy trim.
Use pearl or cream yarn. You may work the dress top-down or bottom-up. A bottom-up method makes it easier to control the skirt flare shown in the image. CO enough stitches for the hem circumference so the skirt stands away from the body slightly but does not become full.
Work a tidy lower edge with 2 rows of garter or a firm stockinette hem facing. Then continue in st st for the skirt. Place very gentle decrease points at each side and near the front and back to taper the dress as it moves upward.
Try the dress against the bunny body often. The image shows a softly conical line, not gathers. Once the waist area is reached, work several rounds or rows even. Then begin the bodice section, which should skim the torso.
Create arm openings if working flat in pieces, or leave the upper back open for dressing. The neckline is mostly hidden by the ruffled collar, so keep it simple and round. Finish the back with a neat closure edge if you want the garment removable.
A faint decorative line is visible at the upper chest area beneath the cape opening. To echo that, work a narrow eyelet or purl texture band across the front bust line, but keep it understated.
Ruffled Collar
The collar is small, soft, and creamy, sitting between the dress neckline and the cape. It frames the face with shallow rounded ripples. It should not look like a large clown ruff.
Using cream, pick up stitches evenly around the neckline. Work 1 round purl on the RS if you want a turning ridge, then increase generously on the next round. Work 2 to 4 rounds in st st or seed stitch.
Bind off loosely. Steam lightly over your fingers or shape by hand so each ripple opens softly. The finished collar should sit close to the neck and peek out evenly all around the front and sides.
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Sea-Green Cape
This cape is the signature clothing piece. It is short, slightly rounded at the lower corners, open at the front, and sits just below shoulder level. The texture is smooth, and the decorated front panels frame the cream dress beneath.
Using the blue-green yarn, work the cape flat from the neck downward. CO to fit around the neck with a slight overlap allowance at the front edges. Begin with a tidy neckband in rib or garter to help it sit neatly.
Increase gradually across the width over several RS rows so the cape spreads over the shoulders. Keep the increase rate moderate. The image shows a cape that rests rather than flares dramatically.
Once shoulder width is reached, work even while shaping the front opening. You may add one extra stitch at each front edge every few rows to create the gentle outward swing of the panels.
The lower edge should curve slightly. Shape this by working short rows at the front corners or by adding extra rows near the center back. Finish with a simple edging, either garter or a firm knit border, to frame the embroidery beautifully.
Sea Holly Embroidery on the Cape
The embroidered motif includes blue spiky flowers, pale green leaves, and curved stems. The arrangement is mirrored from left to right, with the largest blossoms placed on the outer upper sections and smaller sprays extending inward.
Use duplicate stitch, satin stitch, straight stitch, and stem stitch. First mark the major flower positions with pins. Place one large sea holly blossom on each upper outer cape panel, one slightly lower blossom on each side, and smaller leaf clusters between them.
For each blossom, stitch a compact circular center in dusty blue. Around it, add pointed radiating petals using straight stitches in blue and pale blue. Extend a few sharp outer bracts beyond the petals for that distinctive sea holly shape.
Work stems in curved moss green lines that sweep inward and upward. Add leaves in layered fishbone or satin stitch using sage and pale green. Keep the embroidery refined. The background knitting must still show through.
Do not overcrowd the center opening. The image keeps the middle area lighter so the cream dress remains visible. That contrast is part of the look and should be preserved.
Beret
The beret sits low and wide with a soft slouch. The ribbed brim fits around the head above the eyes, while the crown expands and then gathers back toward the center top. A tiny nub appears at the top center.
Using the same blue-green yarn, CO for the brim and work in 1×1 or 2×2 rib for enough rounds to create a firm folded-looking band. The brim should hug the head but not squeeze it.
Increase evenly across the next round to expand the beret. Work several rounds even, then increase once more if needed for fullness. The side profile should resemble a soft rounded disk with gentle collapse.
After the fullest point, work even for a short section. Then begin decreases in balanced wedges every other round, later every round, until a small opening remains. Gather tightly and form a tiny top nub with the closing yarn.
Place the beret low on the forehead, slightly covering the ear roots. Tack it invisibly at the sides and back so it stays in position while still looking soft and wearable.
Shoes
The shoes are a separate finishing layer over the feet and should appear like tiny beige walking shoes or slippers. They are rounded, low-cut, and plain, with no straps or bows.
Pick up stitches around the upper foot or knit separate shoe covers beginning at the sole edge. Work a few rounds in st st, then shape the opening so the top of the foot remains visible. Finish with a firm edge.
If desired, add a thin sole insert between knitted layers for structure. The shoes in the image sit flat and neat, which helps the bunny stand well on a shelf or tabletop display.
Small Striped Bag
The bag is tiny, cylindrical to slightly tapered, and worked in blue-green stripes. It has a short upright handle. The proportions are important: it should look miniature beside the bunny and lower than the knee.
Using two close blue-green shades, CO a small base and work in the round. Shape the body with a slight widening from the bottom, then keep the upper portion straight. Add subtle color changes every few rounds for a softly striped effect.
Bind off neatly. For the handle, pick up stitches on opposite sides and work a narrow band upward, then join to the other side. Stuff the bag very lightly or place a small felt core inside so it holds its shape.
Loose Sea Holly Stems
The decorative stems placed beside the bag are an important visual detail. They echo the embroidery on the cape and tie the set together. Make at least two separate stems with spiky blue flower heads and jagged leaves.
Knit or crochet the leaves if you like mixed techniques, or embroider them onto wired knitted strips. Wrap the wire in green thread or yarn. Add a small thistle-like head using stitched knots and radiating straight stitches.
Bend the stems slightly so they look naturally laid on the table. Keep the scale fine and delicate. These should feel like tiny botanical accessories, not bulky floral picks.
Wicker-Style Flower Basket
The basket is short, rounded, and open at the top, with a single curved handle. Its texture should suggest wicker. Inside sit tiny blue flowers, cream flowers, yellow accents, and green leaves.
Using tan or wicker-colored yarn, begin with a small circular base. Work in the round and shape upward with one increase round near the lower sides, then continue straight or slightly inward toward the top.
To mimic wicker texture, alternate knit and purl rounds, or work a subtle seed stitch band across the sides. The handle is narrow and firm. Knit it flat or as an I-cord, then attach securely inside the rim.
Fill the basket with tiny knitted blossoms. Blue flowers should match the cape tones. Cream blossoms add softness, and a few mustard or golden knots bring life. Arrange them tightly so the basket looks abundant but still miniature.
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Mini Squirrel Friend
The squirrel is small, upright, warm brown, and dressed in a tiny moss-green jacket. It has a cream belly, small ears, short arms, sturdy little feet, and a tall curled tail rising behind the body.
Begin with the legs and lower body in chestnut brown. Keep the shape compact and slightly pear-like. Add a cream belly panel by intarsia, duplicate stitch, or separate sewn-on piece. The head is rounded with a short muzzle.
The ears are tiny triangles placed high on the head. The eyes are small dark knots or beads. The arms are short and open slightly outward. The tail should be larger than the body width and curve up and to one side.
For the jacket, knit a minimal open-front piece in moss green. Add a brown trim line at the front edges if desired. The jacket should sit close to the squirrel without covering the cream belly completely.
Keep this companion simple but expressive. It should feel like a woodland friend that belongs beside the bunny without drawing attention away from the main figure.
Facial Features
The bunny’s face is understated and sweet. The eyes are small dark ovals placed widely apart, slightly above the muzzle line. The nose is stitched in a simple Y-shape with a vertical line extending down to a softly split mouth.
Use dark brown or black embroidery thread. Place the eyes first and step back to check the expression before securing. Too close together changes the mood completely. A slightly wider placement creates the calm look shown in the image.
Embroider a tiny triangular nose or small padded nose shape. From the lower point, stitch one line down and then one short line to each side. Keep the mouth refined and light. The bunny should look serene, not smiling broadly.
Assembly
- Sew the head to the torso, checking that the neck is centered and stable.
- Attach the ears slightly behind the head side line so they fall straight downward.
- Sew the arms close to the body and low enough to remain mostly beneath the cape.
- Dress the bunny in the pearl gown.
- Add the ruffled collar evenly around the neckline.
- Place the cape so the front opening is centered and the lower edge sits just above the dress waist flare.
- Attach the beret low across the forehead.
- Add the shoe layer if made separately.
After assembly, stand the bunny on a flat surface and adjust the body stuffing through any remaining opening if needed. The dress should skim the legs, the cape should sit symmetrically, and the ears should hang evenly from both sides.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Do the final face work only after the hat, collar, and cape are attached. Those pieces slightly affect the character of the head. Recheck eye balance, ear angle, and the position of the mouth line before tying off the embroidery thread permanently.
Lightly brush the embroidery threads on the cape with your fingers so the floral motifs settle into the knitted surface. Tuck every yarn tail deep into the seams. Arrange the accessories around the bunny only after all shaping is complete.
Care Notes
- Display use: best for shelf styling, nursery décor, or collectible gifting
- Handling: gentle handling is recommended because of the small embroidered and wired details
- Sunlight: avoid long direct sun exposure to protect the blue-green tones
- Moisture: keep dry, especially the accessory basket and floral stems
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- The beret sits low and softly slouched
- The ears hang to shoulder level
- The collar shows evenly around the neckline
- The cape embroidery is balanced on both sides
- The dress hem falls smoothly and does not twist
- The shoes sit flat and symmetrical
- The bag, basket, sea holly stems, and squirrel are all included
- The face looks calm, centered, and neat
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Use a soft dry brush or clean cosmetic brush to lift dust from the beret, cape embroidery, and dress hem. For spot cleaning, dab gently with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap, then blot with a dry towel.
Do not soak the finished set unless every accessory is unwired and colorfast. If long-term storing, wrap the bunny in acid-free tissue and keep it in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags, heavy compression, and damp rooms.
For the flower basket and sea holly stems, store separately if they contain wire. Reshape the beret, ears, and cape by hand after cleaning. Always let the pieces dry fully on a towel away from heat before returning them to display.
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