Violet Moonpocket Bunny – Knitting

This knitted bunny is designed as a charming heirloom rabbit doll with a romantic violet wardrobe, a ruffled cloche hat, a moon-shaped shoulder bag, a tiny flower bouquet, and a sweet moth friend. The finished piece has the look of a premium handmade nursery gift, boutique stuffed animal, and collectible seasonal decor item. Its soft shaping, cottage garden palette, and carefully layered clothing give it strong appeal for readers searching for a knitted rabbit doll pattern, handmade baby shower gift, spring display piece, or artisan toy to knit and keep.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

Violet Moonpocket Bunny is a seated rabbit with long soft ears, a rounded head, a slender neck, simple embroidered features, straight legs, gently stuffed arms, and a calm expression.

The outfit is made up of several visible layers. The bunny wears a dark violet dress with a central floral panel, a textured lilac outer coat worked with vertical detail, a ruffled hat, Mary Jane shoes, and a moon purse worn across the body.

In the left paw, the bunny holds a small bouquet of clustered flowers with leafy stems. Beside the bunny sits a tiny knitted moth companion with a rounded body, small feet, a little hat, and a short cape tied at the neck.

The proportions matter in this design. The head is large but not oversized, the torso is slim, the legs are long enough to sit over a bench edge, and the clothing falls neatly without bulk.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: approximately 14 to 16 inches tall seated, or 17 to 19 inches tall standing, depending on yarn and stuffing
• Moth companion: approximately 3 to 3 1/2 inches tall
• Moon purse: approximately 2 inches across
• Flower bouquet: approximately 3 inches long

Materials

• DK weight yarn in warm cream for bunny body
• DK weight yarn in deep violet for dress, shoes, and some flower details
• DK weight yarn in soft lavender for coat edging, hat ruffle, purse outer edge, and floral accents
• DK weight yarn in muted lilac for coat body
• DK weight yarn in dusty mauve for hat crown and moth cape
• DK weight yarn in pale gray or soft oatmeal for moth body and purse base
• Small amount of olive green and sage green for bouquet stems and leaves
• Small amount of dark charcoal or black embroidery thread for eyes
• Small amount of brown or taupe embroidery thread for nose and mouth
• 3 mm knitting needles for flat pieces
• Double-pointed needles in a similar size for small circular items if preferred
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Row counter
• Toy stuffing
• Thin craft wire optional for flower stems if you want extra control
• Small snap, hidden stitch, or tiny button loop for closing the purse if desired

Gauge

Gauge is not crucial, but the fabric should be firm enough that stuffing does not show through. On 3 mm needles with DK yarn, aim for about 26 stitches and 36 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch.

If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size. This bunny looks best with a smooth, even surface and gentle shaping.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• Garter = knit every row
• K2tog = knit 2 together
• SSK = slip, slip, knit
• Inc = increase 1 stitch
• Dec = decrease 1 stitch
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• Rep = repeat
• Rem = remaining

General Construction Notes

The body is worked in separate pieces and seamed. This approach helps control the exact silhouette seen in the image, especially the long limbs, soft face, and neat seated posture.

The clothing is made as individual layers. The dress is the base garment. The coat is worked separately and sewn lightly into place at the shoulders and side edges. The hat, shoes, purse, bouquet, and moth are made after the bunny is assembled.

Use light stuffing in the head and body, medium stuffing in the feet, and softer stuffing in the arms. The face should remain smooth, not hard.

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Main Bunny Body

Legs Make 2

Each leg begins at the sole and is shaped to create a soft tube with a slightly broader foot. The legs in the image are slim and straight, so avoid heavy calf shaping.

1. CO 12 stitches in cream.
2. Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
3. Increase to 16 stitches evenly across the next row.
4. Work 10 rows in St st, beginning with a knit row on RS.
5. On the next RS row, K1, Inc, knit to last stitch, Inc, K1. You now have 18 stitches.
6. Work 8 rows even.
7. Decrease back to 16 stitches on the next RS row.
8. Work 24 more rows even for the long lower leg.
9. Stuff the foot firmly and the leg lightly as you go.
10. BO, leaving a tail for sewing the top edge to the body base.

Make the second leg the same. Keep both legs equal in length, because the seated edge look depends on matching limbs.

Arms Make 2

The arms are narrow, relaxed, and slightly tapered. They should rest close to the body and curve inward just enough to hold the bouquet.

1. CO 10 stitches in cream.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Continue in St st for 20 rows.
4. On the next RS row, K2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, SSK. You now have 8 stitches.
5. Work 10 rows even.
6. Inc 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. You now have 10 stitches again.
7. Work 8 rows even.
8. BO, leaving a long tail.

Seam each arm, stuff lightly, and flatten the top opening before attaching. Do not overstuff the hands, because the bouquet must sit naturally against the side.

Body Front

The body is a long oval shape with a gentle shoulder slope and a narrow neck. The torso in the image is not round and plump. It is softly padded and slightly elongated.

1. CO 22 stitches in cream.
2. Work 4 rows garter stitch for the base edge.
3. Begin St st and work 10 rows even.
4. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Repeat this increase every 8th row 3 times total. You now have 28 stitches.
5. Work 20 rows even.
6. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Repeat this decrease every 6th row 3 times total. You now have 22 stitches.
7. Work 10 rows even.
8. Shape shoulders: BO 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
9. Decrease 1 stitch at each neck edge on the next 2 RS rows to form the neck opening.
10. Work 2 rows even and BO remaining stitches.

Body Back

1. Work as for Body Front through all shaping.
2. For a neat neck, make the back neck slightly higher by working 2 fewer rows before shoulder shaping.

Head Front

The head is the most important section of the entire design. It is large, softly rounded, and slightly wider at the cheeks than at the forehead. The muzzle is not protruding. Instead, a subtle embroidered nose and stitched shaping create the rabbit face.

1. CO 18 stitches in cream.
2. Work 4 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row.
4. Work 3 rows even.
5. Repeat the increase row every 4th row until you have 30 stitches.
6. Work 20 rows even.
7. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row.
8. Work 3 rows even.
9. Repeat the decrease row every 4th row until 18 stitches remain.
10. Work 2 rows even and BO.

Head Back

1. Work the same as Head Front.

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Head Side Gusset Optional but Recommended

If you want the cleanest rounded head shape, add a narrow side gusset strip. This helps create the broad forehead and smooth crown seen in the image.

1. CO 8 stitches in cream.
2. Work 44 rows in St st.
3. BO.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and gently rounded at the ends. They hang straight down with a soft fold from the hat brim line. No inner contrast panel is needed in this design.

1. CO 8 stitches in cream.
2. Work in St st, increasing 1 stitch at each end every 6th row 4 times. You now have 16 stitches.
3. Work 26 rows even.
4. Shape tip: K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1 on RS rows.
5. Purl WS rows.
6. Continue until 6 stitches remain.
7. BO.

Make a second ear. Seam each ear lightly if worked flat, or leave flat and double-layered if you prefer a thinner finish.

Assembling the Main Bunny

Sew the head pieces together first. If using a gusset, seam it between the front and back pieces. Stuff gradually, keeping the cheeks smooth and the chin gentle.

Add a little more stuffing at the upper sides of the head than at the lower face. This creates the soft wide shape seen in the image. Do not let the face become square.

Sew the body front and back together, stuff lightly, and close. Attach the head to the neck opening with strong stitches.

Sew the legs to the lower body edge. Position them parallel and slightly forward so the bunny sits with both legs falling over the edge. Attach the arms just below the shoulder line.

Sew the ears to the upper sides of the head, starting a little below the crown center. Let them fall close to the face.

Facial Shaping and Expression

The face is simple and gentle. The eyes are tiny dark stitches placed wide apart. The nose is a small inverted Y shape in taupe or brown. The mouth is short and delicate.

• Place the eyes about halfway down the head
• Leave around 9 to 11 stitches between the eyes, depending on your gauge
• Embroider each eye as a small satin knot or tiny vertical stitch
• Shape the nose at the center lower face with two short diagonal stitches meeting in the middle
• Work one short vertical stitch downward, then split into two very small mouth stitches

For added definition, use a strand of matching cream yarn to make one gentle tightening stitch from the lower face to the crown underside. Pull only slightly. This creates the soft muzzle structure without making a pronounced snout.

Dress

The dress is deep violet with a central decorative flower panel and a scalloped lower edge. It fits close to the body and ends just above the knees when seated.

Dress Back and Front Base

1. CO 40 stitches in deep violet.
2. Work 4 rows in garter.
3. To suggest the scalloped hem, work a simple wave edge as follows: Row 1, K2tog across to end. Row 2, Purl. Row 3, knit, increasing back to 40 stitches evenly.
4. Work 10 rows in St st.
5. Begin waist shaping: decrease 1 stitch at each end every 8th row 3 times. You now have 34 stitches.
6. Work 8 rows even.
7. Increase 1 stitch at each end once. You now have 36 stitches.
8. Work 10 rows even to underarm.

For the front, divide the visual design into three sections: a narrow center floral band and two plain side areas. You can keep the knitting plain and add knitted flower appliqués later, which is the easiest way to match the image closely.

For the back, continue plain in St st. Shape a shallow neckline and short shoulders. Sew the side seams and shoulder seams, leaving the back partly open if needed for dressing.

Dress Sleeves Make 2

The sleeves are short puff sleeves in a medium violet tone. They sit under the coat and show at the shoulders.

1. CO 18 stitches in medium violet.
2. Work 4 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 3 times. You now have 24 stitches.
4. Work 6 rows even.
5. Decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row until 14 stitches remain.
6. BO.

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Seam lightly and set into the arm openings. Gather the cap gently to create the rounded shoulder puff shown in the image.

Floral Front Panel Appliqués

The dress front shows a neat vertical line of dimensional flowers in different violet shades. Work 7 small flowers total, ranging from dark plum to pale lavender.

Each flower may be made as a tiny knitted motif.

1. CO 5 stitches.
2. Work 1 row knit.
3. On the next row, K1, Inc, K1, Inc, K1, Inc, K1, Inc, K1. You now have 9 stitches.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. K2tog across with a center knit stitch. This gathers the petal shape.
6. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.

Flatten each flower and stitch into place down the center front panel. Add a tiny knot at the center of each flower if desired.

Arrange the flowers so the darkest one sits near the hem and the lighter ones alternate upward. This layering helps recreate the floral pathway visible in the image.

Outer Coat

The coat is the key garment layer. It is sleeveless in front, open down the center, and rich with vertical texture. The coat body is a dusty lilac with a slightly darker purple border feel created by the layered dress beneath.

Back

1. CO 34 stitches in muted lilac.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Begin textured fabric using this 6-row repeat: Row 1 knit, Row 2 purl, Row 3 K2, P2 across, Row 4 as stitches appear, Row 5 knit, Row 6 purl.
4. Work 40 rows total, keeping the texture even.
5. Shape armholes by BO 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
6. Work 14 rows even.
7. Shape shoulders by BO 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then BO remaining center stitches.

Fronts Make 2

1. CO 18 stitches in muted lilac.
2. Work the same texture pattern as the back.
3. At the center front edge, work 3 stitches in garter throughout for a neat opening edge.
4. After 40 rows, shape the armhole at the outer edge as for back.
5. Continue 10 rows.
6. Shape the neckline at the inner edge by decreasing 1 stitch every 4th row 3 times.
7. Work to match back shoulder height and BO shoulder stitches.

Sew the coat at shoulders and side seams. Leave the front open. The coat should fall slightly below the dress waist and frame the center floral band.

If you want extra depth, add two narrow vertical cable-like strips by surface stitching on each front panel. This gives the richly paneled appearance visible in the image without adding too much complexity.

Hat

The hat is a soft cloche with a rounded crown and a wide ruffled brim in lavender. It sits low over the head, just above the eyes, and allows the ears to drop beneath it.

Hat Crown

1. CO 60 stitches in dusty mauve and join carefully if working in the round, or work flat and seam later.
2. Work 24 rows in St st.
3. Begin crown shaping: K8, K2tog around. Next decrease round, K7, K2tog around. Continue in this manner, reducing the plain knit section by 1 stitch each decrease round until 12 stitches remain.
4. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.

Hat Brim Ruffle

1. Pick up 60 stitches around the lower edge in soft lavender.
2. Knit 1 round.
3. Increase every stitch across the next round to 120 stitches.
4. Work 4 rows in St st.
5. Work 2 rows garter for a softly rippled brim edge.
6. BO loosely.

Place the hat on the bunny and stitch it down invisibly at the sides and back. The brim should wave naturally rather than flare flat.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are neat Mary Jane style shoes in rich violet. They cover the foot closely and have a slim strap across the front.

1. CO 14 stitches in deep violet.
2. Work 6 rows garter for the sole base.
3. Pick up stitches around the edge if working three-dimensionally, or continue flat and seam later.
4. Work 8 rows in St st for the shoe sides.
5. Shape the toe by decreasing 1 stitch at each end every RS row 3 times.
6. Work 4 rows even.
7. BO side stitches, leaving center top stitches for the strap.
8. For strap, CO 8 stitches and work 10 rows in garter.
9. Attach one end to one side of the shoe top and sew the other end across the instep.

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Slip each shoe onto the foot and sew neatly at the back if required. The shoes should fit snugly and sit rounded, not pointed.

Moon Purse

The moon purse is one of the most distinctive details in the design. It hangs from a narrow strap across the body and rests at the bunny’s right hip. The shape is a soft crescent with a pale outer edge and darker inner panel.

Purse Front

1. CO 14 stitches in pale gray.
2. Work short-row shaping or simple decreases to create a crescent base: increase to 18 stitches over the first few rows, then maintain for 8 rows.
3. On the next rows, decrease more strongly on one side than the other to curve the top line inward.
4. Work until the piece resembles a crescent moon silhouette.

Purse Back

1. Work a matching piece.

Inner Panel

1. Using deep violet, knit a slightly smaller crescent to layer on top of the front.

Strap

1. CO 3 stitches in pale gray.
2. Knit i-cord or garter strip for about 14 to 16 inches.
3. BO.

Layer the purple inner crescent onto the pale front piece. Sew purse front and back together, stuff very lightly or leave flat, then attach the strap. Place the strap from left shoulder to right hip.

Bouquet

The bouquet has clustered rounded blossoms in rich purple and lavender, with knitted leaves in muted greens. It should look full but still small enough to fit neatly in the bunny’s hand.

Flowers Make 5 to 7

For each flower cluster ball:

1. CO 6 stitches in chosen flower color.
2. Increase evenly to 12 stitches.
3. Work 4 rows in St st.
4. Decrease evenly back to 6 stitches.
5. Stuff lightly and close.

Make several in dark purple and a few in pale lavender. Group two or three together at the top of each stem.

Leaves Make 4 to 6

1. CO 3 stitches in sage or olive green.
2. Row 1 K1, Inc, K1.
3. Row 2 purl.
4. Row 3 K1, Inc, knit to last stitch, Inc, K1.
5. Work 2 rows even.
6. Decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row until 3 stitches remain.
7. BO.

Stems

Use green yarn twisted firmly, or work narrow i-cords. If desired, run a fine craft wire through the stems for control.

Gather the flower heads into two little bunches, add leaves beneath, wrap the stems with green yarn, and stitch the bouquet into the bunny’s left hand.

Moth Companion

The tiny moth companion is seated at the bunny’s side. It has a pear-shaped pale body, tiny feet, a round face, short antennae, a small mauve hat, and a cape in dusty rose with a tied neck.

Moth Body Front and Back

1. CO 10 stitches in pale gray.
2. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 3 times. You now have 16 stitches.
3. Work 10 rows even.
4. Decrease 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 3 times.
5. Work 4 rows even and BO.

Sew together, stuff lightly, and keep the lower body slightly flatter so it sits well.

Moth Head

1. CO 12 stitches in pale gray.
2. Work 12 rows in St st with small increases and decreases to form a round head.
3. BO and seam.

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Attach the head to the body. Embroider tiny eyes and a very small nose in a soft neutral shade.

Moth Feet Make 2

1. CO 4 stitches in pale gray.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. BO.

Fold each into a tiny nub and stitch at the base front.

Moth Arms Optional Small Nubs Make 2

1. CO 3 stitches in pale gray.
2. Work 3 rows garter.
3. BO and attach at the sides.

Moth Cape

1. CO 20 stitches in dusty mauve.
2. Work 2 rows garter.
3. Work short rows or simple edge decreases over 10 rows to create a rounded cape.
4. Finish with 2 rows garter and BO.

Gather lightly at the neck and tie with a soft beige or tan strand.

Moth Hat

1. CO 18 stitches in purple.
2. Work 8 rows in St st.
3. Decrease evenly to 10 stitches.
4. Work 2 rows.
5. Thread yarn through and close.
6. Add a narrow brim by picking up stitches at the lower edge and working 2 garter rows if desired.

Antennae

Using dark yarn, embroider two short antennae at the top of the moth’s head. Keep them tiny and slightly curved outward.

Dressing the Bunny

Put the dress on first and close the back neatly. Add the sleeves if they were worked separately. Place the coat on top and tack it lightly at the shoulders and side seams so it stays open and frames the floral center.

Put on the shoes and stitch them in place. Add the hat last so you can arrange the ears correctly beneath the brim. Position the moon purse diagonally from the left shoulder to the right side.

Sew the bouquet to the left hand, then anchor the hand gently against the body so the bouquet sits upright.

Place the moth companion beside the bunny and let it rest close to the right foot or hip area, just as shown in the image.

Color Placement Notes

• Body and ears: warm cream
• Dress base: dark violet
• Dress flowers: mixed plum, purple, and lavender
• Coat: muted lilac with deeper tonal texture
• Shoes: rich violet
• Hat crown: mauve lavender
• Hat ruffle: pale lavender
• Purse base: pale gray or oatmeal
• Purse inner crescent: deep violet
• Bouquet flowers: dark purple and lavender
• Bouquet leaves: mixed sage and olive
• Moth body: pale gray
• Moth cape: dusty rose mauve
• Moth hat: purple

Shaping Notes for an Accurate Silhouette

Keep the head round and a little wide. Keep the neck narrow. The body should be slim enough that the clothing layers remain visible and elegant.

The ears should hang nearly to the shoulder line. The legs must be long enough to dangle naturally. The arms should sit slightly forward, not straight out to the sides.

The coat should remain open in front. Do not close it across the floral dress panel. That center decoration is one of the strongest visual details in the piece.

The hat brim should be soft and wavy. Avoid a flat circular brim. The moon purse should rest low and slightly forward so it is clearly visible.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face before securing the hat permanently. Small eye placement changes can alter the whole mood of the bunny. Keep the eyes tiny, calm, and evenly spaced.

Anchor the ears after the hat is in place so they fall naturally under the brim. Stitch the purse strap securely at shoulder and side points. Add the bouquet last so it does not interfere with dressing.

Steam blocking is not recommended for the stuffed bunny, but light hand smoothing helps settle the knitted fabric before final photos or display.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from prolonged direct sunlight
• Keep away from heavy moisture and rough handling
• Spot clean whenever possible
• Store flat or seated in a clean dry place
• Do not hang the bunny by the purse strap or hat brim

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head is round and evenly stuffed
• Eyes are symmetrical
• Nose and mouth are centered
• Ears hang at matching length
• Dress floral panel is centered
• Coat front edges remain open and balanced
• Hat brim sits low and softly rippled
• Shoes are even
• Moon purse rests at the right side
• Bouquet is secure in the left hand
• Moth companion sits upright

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft dry cloth to remove dust from the surface. For small marks, dab gently with cool water and a mild wool-safe cleanser, then blot with a towel.

Do not machine wash, soak, or tumble dry. If the piece becomes misshapen, reshape by hand while slightly damp and allow it to dry fully on a towel.

For long-term storage, wrap in clean tissue and place in a breathable cotton bag. Avoid plastic boxes in humid spaces, since trapped moisture can affect both yarn and stuffing.