Bluebell Ramble Bunny – Knitting

Bluebell Ramble Bunny – Knitting

This sweet knitted set features a long-eared bunny dressed for a quiet outdoor walk, complete with a soft blue bucket hat, marled blue sweater, beige skirt, crossbody bag, Mary Jane shoes, a tiny striped scarf, a small toy camera, and a companion penguin in matching blue layers. The finished pieces create a charming handmade collectible that fits beautifully into nursery decor, gift knitting, heirloom toy collections, and handmade stuffed animal shopping searches such as knitted bunny doll, artisan toy gift, hand-knit animal, and nursery keepsake.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview of the Set

This pattern is written to recreate the full scene shown in the image, not only the main bunny. The proportions matter a great deal here. The bunny is tall and slender, with a large rounded head, long hanging ears, narrow legs, softly shaped arms, and a calm neutral face.

The clothing is a big part of the look. The sweater is gently roomy, the skirt is straight and slightly flared, and the hat sits low on the forehead with a modest brim. The bag is small and rounded, and the strap crosses the body from shoulder to hip.

The companion penguin is also important. It is small beside the bunny, wearing a blue hat and layered blue top. The penguin is not overly round. It is compact, upright, and simple, with black wings, a pale face, and a yellow beak and feet.

The scarf and camera finish the set and give the whole arrangement its travel theme. Even though they are small, they should not be skipped. Their scale helps the main bunny feel larger and makes the composition look complete.

Finished Size

  • Main bunny: about 12 to 13 inches tall from feet to top of head, excluding ear tips
  • Bunny ears: about 4 1/2 to 5 inches long each
  • Bucket hat: sized to fit low over the bunny’s head
  • Penguin: about 4 to 4 1/2 inches tall
  • Camera: about 1 1/4 inches wide
  • Scarf: about 5 to 6 inches long
  • Bag: about 1 1/2 inches tall with flap closed

Materials

  • Main bunny body color: light oatmeal or warm beige DK yarn
  • Sweater and hats: denim blue and pale blue DK yarn for a marled effect
  • Skirt and bag: same beige as the bunny, or one shade darker for gentle contrast
  • Penguin body: black, white or cream, medium blue, dark blue, and mustard yellow DK yarn
  • Scarf: tiny amounts of cream, blue, red, and beige
  • Camera: charcoal, black, silver gray, and a tiny amount of red or blue
  • Needles: US 2 and US 3 double-pointed needles or preferred method for small circumference knitting
  • Stuffing: firm polyester toy stuffing
  • Eyes: small black safety eyes or embroidered eyes
  • Tapestry needle
  • Removable stitch markers
  • Waste yarn

Gauge

Gauge is not critical in the same way it would be for a sweater, but firm fabric is essential. You want stitches tight enough that stuffing does not show through. On the larger needle, aim for a smooth stockinette fabric that keeps the toy neat and well-shaped.

If your knitting is loose, go down a needle size. A slightly denser fabric will help the bunny stand better, keep the ears tidy, and make the penguin and accessories hold their shape more cleanly.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • K = knit
  • P = purl
  • St st = stockinette stitch
  • kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • BO = bind off
  • pm = place marker
  • sm = slip marker
  • rep = repeat

Color Notes

The bunny’s sweater in the image looks softly marled rather than sharply striped. To recreate that effect, hold one strand of denim blue with one strand of pale blue throughout the sweater and hat, or alternate the two shades every two rounds if using single-strand DK.

The skirt and body are close in color, but the skirt reads slightly separate because of its drape and edge. Using the same beige is fine. If you want stronger definition, pick a beige just one step darker than the head and limbs.

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Main Bunny Legs

Knit the legs first in the round using beige. The legs are long, narrow, and evenly stuffed. They should look straight rather than chunky. Make two.

  1. CO 12 stitches. Join carefully.
  2. K 1 round.
  3. Work 8 rounds in St st.
  4. Increase round: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, K1. You now have 14 stitches.
  5. K 18 more rounds.
  6. Stuff lightly at the foot and more firmly from ankle upward.
  7. BO loosely, leaving a long tail for joining to the body.

Shape the lower part gently with your fingers so the front of each foot is slightly flatter than the back. The legs in the image are simple tubes, but this tiny flattening helps the shoes sit better and keeps the bunny stable.

Main Bunny Body

The body is modestly sized compared with the head. It should be pear-shaped only very slightly, not a wide belly. Join the two legs into one body and knit upward.

  1. Place both legs on needles. Arrange so inner leg stitches face each other.
  2. K across first leg, CO 2 stitches, K across second leg, CO 2 stitches. Total 32 stitches.
  3. K 4 rounds.
  4. Increase round: K4, kfb, K6, kfb, K8, kfb, K6, kfb, K4. Total 36 stitches.
  5. K 8 rounds.
  6. Decrease round: K4, k2tog, K6, k2tog, K8, k2tog, K6, k2tog, K4. Total 32 stitches.
  7. K 10 rounds.
  8. Stuff firmly, especially at the lower body.
  9. Next round: K2tog around to 16 stitches.
  10. Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches, but do not close tightly yet if you prefer to sew the head on separately.

If you like a stronger neck, close the body and leave a flat top. If you prefer less seaming, work the head directly from the body. Both methods work. Sewing the head on separately gives better control over the posture shown in the image.

Main Bunny Head

The head is the dominant shape in the whole design. It is large, rounded, and slightly taller than wide. The lower face is softly tapered, but not pointed. Start at the neck opening and work upward, or knit separately from the top down.

  1. CO 16 stitches.
  2. Round 1: Kfb in every stitch. Total 32 stitches.
  3. Round 2: K.
  4. Round 3: K1, kfb around. Total 48 stitches.
  5. Work 18 rounds in St st.
  6. Place eyes between rounds 11 and 12, about 9 stitches apart.
  7. Decrease round: K6, k2tog around. Total 42 stitches.
  8. K 1 round.
  9. Decrease round: K5, k2tog around. Total 36 stitches.
  10. K 1 round.
  11. Stuff very firmly, shaping the cheeks smoothly.
  12. Decrease round: K4, k2tog around. Total 30 stitches.
  13. Decrease round: K3, k2tog around. Total 24 stitches.
  14. Decrease round: K2, k2tog around. Total 18 stitches.
  15. Decrease round: K1, k2tog around. Total 12 stitches.
  16. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close neatly.

Before fully closing, press the stuffing downward so the head remains rounded at the crown. The bunny in the image has a smooth forehead and gentle cheek fullness. Avoid a flat top or a narrow muzzle.

Main Bunny Arms

The arms are medium length and slightly tapered. They hang straight down with only a soft bend. Make two in beige.

  1. CO 10 stitches and join.
  2. K 6 rounds.
  3. Increase round: K5, kfb, K5. Total 11 stitches.
  4. K 14 rounds.
  5. Stuff only the lower half lightly.
  6. Flatten top opening and sew closed.

When attaching, angle the arms slightly downward from the shoulder. They should sit close to the sides of the sweater and end near the upper hip line. Do not place them too high, or the sweater will appear shortened.

Main Bunny Ears

The ears are long, soft, and flattened, with one upper section gently lifted by the hat. They are not wired. Knit two in beige, then fold and shape with light stuffing or no stuffing at all.

  1. CO 14 stitches.
  2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
  3. Change to St st and work 20 rows.
  4. Decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1.
  5. Work 3 rows even.
  6. Rep last 4 rows 3 more times until 6 stitches remain.
  7. Work 2 rows even.
  8. Next row: K1, k2tog, K1, ssk, K1. 5 stitches.
  9. Purl 1 row.
  10. K2tog, K1, k2tog. 3 stitches.
  11. Purl 1 row.
  12. Slip 1, k2tog, psso. Fasten off.

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Sew side edges together only at the lower 1 inch of each ear to create a slight cupped base. Leave the rest flat. The image shows ears that hang naturally, with the upper folded ear sections giving a soft rabbit expression rather than a stiff upright look.

Face Embroidery

The face is minimal and gentle. Use black or dark brown yarn for the eyes if not using safety eyes. The nose is a tiny inverted triangle with a short vertical line and subtle split mouth.

  • Eyes: small and oval, set low enough to create a calm expression
  • Nose: centered, small, and stitched with 3 to 4 passes
  • Mouth: one straight stitch downward, then two short slanted stitches

Keep the facial features small. The image does not have rosy cheeks, whiskers, lashes, or heavy sculpting. Simplicity is what gives the bunny its quiet, handmade charm.

Sweater

The sweater is short, slightly boxy, and ends around the top of the skirt. The neckline is neat and close, and the sleeves are three-quarter to bracelet length. Use blue marl for the whole piece.

You can knit the sweater flat in separate pieces for an easier fit, or knit from the bottom up in the round and divide for front and back. The separate-piece method gives crisp shoulders and cleaner arm placement for toys.

Back

  1. CO 30 stitches.
  2. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib.
  3. Work 28 rows in St st.
  4. Bind off 3 stitches at start of next 2 rows for armholes.
  5. Work 10 rows even.
  6. Bind off center 10 stitches for neck.
  7. Work each side separately for 3 rows, then bind off shoulders.

Front

  1. Work as for back until armholes are complete.
  2. After 6 armhole rows, bind off center 8 stitches for neck.
  3. Work each side separately, decreasing 1 stitch at neck edge every other row 2 times.
  4. Work until same height as back and bind off shoulders.

Sleeves

  1. CO 16 stitches for each sleeve.
  2. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib.
  3. Increase 1 stitch each side every 6th row 3 times. Total 22 stitches.
  4. Work until sleeve measures about 3 inches.
  5. Bind off.

Sew shoulder seams, set in sleeves, and sew side and sleeve seams. Dress the bunny before sewing the arms if you want the sleeves to sit especially smoothly. The sweater should look softly fitted, not oversized and not tight.

Skirt

The skirt is simple, straight, and slightly A-line, ending above the ankles. It has almost no visible waistband. It sits high under the sweater hem and hangs cleanly without gathered fullness.

  1. CO 34 stitches in beige and join.
  2. K 3 rounds.
  3. P 1 round to create a subtle turning line if desired.
  4. K 18 rounds.
  5. Increase round: K8, kfb, K8, kfb, K8, kfb, K8, kfb. Total 38 stitches.
  6. K 4 rounds.
  7. BO loosely.

If you want a slightly firmer hem like the image, work the last 2 rounds on a smaller needle before binding off. Sew the top edge discreetly around the bunny’s waist so the skirt stays in place under the sweater.

Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are beige with white top openings visible at the front. This detail makes them look like soft Mary Jane slippers. Work them as separate shoe covers over the feet or embroider the look directly onto the feet.

  1. CO 12 stitches in beige and join.
  2. K 4 rounds.
  3. On round 5, change center front 4 stitches to cream or white.
  4. K 2 more rounds, keeping those center stitches white.
  5. Decrease round: k2tog at each side of front and back. Total 8 stitches.
  6. Draw together, shape over foot, and sew in place.

Add a tiny horizontal beige stitch across the upper front edge if you want a stronger shoe strap impression. Keep it subtle. The shoes in the image are soft and simple, not sharply defined dress shoes.

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Bucket Hat for Bunny

This hat sits low and has a gently sloping brim. It is not floppy, but it is soft. Use the same blue marl as the sweater. The crown is shallow because it rests over a rounded toy head rather than a human head.

  1. CO 8 stitches and divide evenly.
  2. Round 1: Kfb around. Total 16 stitches.
  3. Round 2: K.
  4. Round 3: K1, kfb around. Total 24 stitches.
  5. Round 4: K.
  6. Round 5: K2, kfb around. Total 32 stitches.
  7. Round 6: K.
  8. Round 7: K3, kfb around. Total 40 stitches.
  9. Work 10 rounds even.
  10. Brim increase round: K4, kfb around. Total 48 stitches.
  11. K 3 rounds.
  12. Brim increase round: K5, kfb around. Total 56 stitches.
  13. K 4 rounds.
  14. BO loosely.

Steam very lightly or finger-block the brim so it angles downward. The hat should frame the face and lightly touch the tops of the hanging ears. Sew to the head with a few hidden stitches after the ears are positioned.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is tiny, rounded at the base, and worn on the bunny’s left hip. It has a flap and one little button-like stitch on the front. Use beige so it matches the skirt and shoes.

  1. CO 10 stitches.
  2. Work 8 rows in St st.
  3. Shape base by decreasing 1 stitch each end on next right-side row.
  4. Work 2 rows.
  5. Repeat decrease once more. You now have 6 stitches.
  6. Work 6 rows even for flap.
  7. BO.

Fold lower section upward to form pouch and sew side edges. For the strap, make an I-cord about 9 inches long, or twist a firm knitted cord. Sew the strap from upper right side of bag across the body to the left shoulder area.

Add one small French knot or tiny stitched dot on the flap to mimic the closure shown in the image. Keep the bag soft and lightly stuffed, or leave it flat for easier drape.

Tiny Scarf

The scarf is short, striped, and casually placed beside the bunny rather than worn. It adds color without overpowering the blue-and-beige palette. Use cream as the main base with narrow blue and red stripes.

  1. CO 6 stitches.
  2. K 4 rows cream.
  3. K 2 rows blue.
  4. K 2 rows cream.
  5. K 2 rows red.
  6. K 2 rows cream.
  7. Repeat stripe sequence once more.
  8. K 4 rows cream.
  9. BO.

Leave tiny yarn tails as fringe if you like, or add short tied fringes after blocking. The scarf should look soft, miniature, and handmade rather than perfectly tailored.

Tiny Camera

The camera is very small but distinct. It has a dark body and a prominent round lens. Knit a tiny rectangle, seam it into a box, and add the lens separately.

  1. Using charcoal, CO 8 stitches.
  2. Work 12 rows in St st.
  3. BO and seam into a small padded box.
  4. For lens, CO 6 stitches in black and knit an I-cord tube for 3 rounds, then draw closed.
  5. Sew lens to center front.
  6. Add a gray ring around lens and one tiny contrast dot on upper body for a button.

The camera in the image looks plush and simple, not realistic. Keep edges rounded. A short black yarn strap can be added and tucked underneath.

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Penguin Body

The penguin stands upright and is small beside the bunny. It has a dark outer body, pale face panel, black wings, and a blue outfit effect created with color sections. Start from the feet and body base.

  1. With dark blue or black, CO 12 stitches and join.
  2. K 4 rounds.
  3. Increase to 18 stitches evenly.
  4. Work 6 rounds in dark blue for lower outfit.
  5. Change to medium blue and work 5 rounds.
  6. Begin face placement by knitting front 8 stitches in cream and remaining stitches in black.
  7. Work 8 rounds, keeping face panel centered.
  8. Stuff firmly.
  9. Decrease evenly to 12 stitches.
  10. Work 2 rounds.
  11. Decrease to 6 stitches and close.

The penguin should have a tidy oval body, slightly fuller at the bottom and gently narrowed at the head. Do not overstuff the top, or the hat will not sit correctly.

Penguin Wings

Make two small black wings.

  1. CO 6 stitches.
  2. Work 6 rows in St st.
  3. Decrease 1 stitch each end on next right-side row.
  4. Work 1 row.
  5. Repeat decrease once more and bind off.

Sew the wings low on the sides so they angle slightly downward. In the image, one wing is clearly visible and hangs naturally away from the body.

Penguin Beak and Feet

Use mustard yellow. The beak is tiny and horizontal. The feet are just small visible bases at the front. They do not protrude far.

  • Beak: satin stitch a short oval between eyes
  • Feet: embroider or sew two tiny flattened ovals at the lower front

Keep the beak short and low. Large features will make the penguin look cartoonish, while the image shows a very restrained and neat expression.

Penguin Sweater Effect

The penguin’s upper garment looks like a simple blue striped or marled top over a darker lower section. You can create this by alternating medium blue and pale blue rounds over the upper torso, or by using the same marl technique used for the bunny sweater.

If you want stronger definition, embroider one thin horizontal pale row across the chest after knitting. This helps the penguin visually match the bunny without adding too much complexity.

Penguin Hat

The penguin wears a tiny bucket hat matching the bunny’s hat. Work exactly the same shaping principle, but smaller.

  1. CO 6 stitches.
  2. Increase evenly to 18 stitches over 3 rounds.
  3. Work 5 rounds even.
  4. Increase to 24 stitches for brim.
  5. Work 3 rounds.
  6. BO loosely.

Set the hat slightly low over the penguin’s forehead, just as in the image. A tiny hidden stitch at the back will keep it in place.

Assembly Order

  1. Sew bunny head to body if worked separately.
  2. Attach ears first and test hat placement.
  3. Embroider face before fixing hat permanently.
  4. Dress bunny in sweater and skirt.
  5. Attach arms after sweater is in place.
  6. Sew shoes or embroider shoe details.
  7. Attach bag strap and bag.
  8. Assemble penguin completely.
  9. Finish scarf and camera last.

Step back often and compare proportions as you work. The full set looks best when the bunny remains the clear focal point, the penguin reaches roughly one-third of the bunny’s height, and the tiny accessories stay visibly miniature.

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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Use strong matching sewing yarn or doubled knitting yarn for all main joins. Pull firmly enough to secure the limbs and ears, but not so tightly that the body caves inward. The bunny should stand with a straight, calm posture.

For the face, keep the eyes small, the nose centered, and the mouth delicate. If needed, make one tiny inward stitch at each eye corner to soften the expression. Avoid extra embellishment so the finished look stays true to the image.

Care Notes

  • Display pieces are best for gentle handling rather than rough play.
  • Use a lint roller or dry soft brush for light surface dust.
  • Keep away from strong sunlight to protect the blue tones.
  • Store the scarf and camera with the set so they do not get misplaced.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head larger than body, but still smooth and rounded
  • Long ears hanging below hat line
  • Blue marl sweater and hat clearly coordinated
  • Straight beige skirt ending above ankles
  • Small crossbody bag on left hip
  • Tiny striped scarf and toy camera included
  • Penguin finished in matching blue tones with yellow beak and feet

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For best long-term care, spot clean only with a lightly damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak stuffed pieces unless absolutely necessary. Press out moisture gently with a towel and reshape while drying flat.

If the toys will be displayed seasonally, wrap them in clean tissue and store in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags in humid spaces. Keep dark accessories separated from pale knitted pieces to reduce any risk of color transfer over time.

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